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Balance Wheel

The oscillating wheel at the heart of every mechanical watch.

Tudor debuts new, Goldilocks 36mm size for the Ranger + a ‘Dune White’ dial option that’s sure to excite vintage lovers (live pics) Time+Tide
Tudor debuts new Goldilocks 36mm Nov 19, 2025

Tudor debuts new, Goldilocks 36mm size for the Ranger + a ‘Dune White’ dial option that’s sure to excite vintage lovers (live pics)

An extremely approachable new 36mm diameter and an Albino Explorer-esque white dial option join the Tudor Ranger range.The post Tudor debuts new, Goldilocks 36mm size for the Ranger + a ‘Dune White’ dial option that’s sure to excite vintage lovers (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Elemental Beauty: Exotic Stone Dials for the Biver Automatique SJX Watches
Piaget stone dials have outgrown Nov 19, 2025

Elemental Beauty: Exotic Stone Dials for the Biver Automatique

Stone dials have become an increasingly visible trend in recent years; once rare, they are now widespread. Yet most rely on a handful of familiar minerals such as malachite, lapis lazuli, and tiger’s eye, leaving little room for novelty. Biver has taken a different approach with the Automatique, offering a far broader and more exotic palette of materials that includes mahogany obsidian, quartzite, and lavender jade-alongside traditional enamel dials crafted by Geneva’s leading specialists. While the new dials take centre stage, the Automatique itself is largely unchanged, and still features one of the most technically interesting movements in the genre of high-end time-only watches. Initial thoughts Mineral stone dials seem to be everywhere these days. Once the domain of brands like Piaget, stone dials have outgrown their niche and become common enough that a cottage industry of suppliers has emerged to supply them at nearly all price points; even Timex offers malachite dials. But most brands are using the same handful of stone types like malachite, tiger’s eye, lapis lazuli, and other semi-precious, but actually quite common, minerals. This is where Biver goes its own way, offering a diverse and unusual selection of stone and enamel dials, along with a few ‘ordinary’ dials for more conservative collectors. In total, 11 new references join the collection, and each has the option for a precious metal bracelet that matches the case material. As a watch, the Autom...

Introducing: The New Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean - Freshly Revamped For Its 20th Anniversary [Live Images] Fratello
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean - Nov 18, 2025

Introducing: The New Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean - Freshly Revamped For Its 20th Anniversary [Live Images]

Twenty years after the debut of the first Planet Ocean, Omega has introduced the fourth generation of this collection of professional dive watches. The update features a complete redesign, with significant changes to the case and bracelet architecture. There are also technical improvements that help bring it up to par with the brand’s ever-improving performance […] Visit Introducing: The New Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean - Freshly Revamped For Its 20th Anniversary [Live Images] to read the full article.

Hands-On With Four Versions Of The Louis Erard 2340 In Steel And Titanium   Fratello
Louis Erard 2340 Nov 17, 2025

Hands-On With Four Versions Of The Louis Erard 2340 In Steel And Titanium  

What can you do in Le Noirmont, a town of 1,629 inhabitants situated in the Swiss canton of Jura? You can go for a hike in the mountains surrounding the village. And if you’re into watches, a visit to the Musée de la Boîte de Montre (The Watch Case Museum) is a good idea. It’s […] Visit Hands-On With Four Versions Of The Louis Erard 2340 In Steel And Titanium   to read the full article.

Hands On: Double-Faced Grand Comps for Vacheron Constantin’s 270th SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s 270th Marking Nov 13, 2025

Hands On: Double-Faced Grand Comps for Vacheron Constantin’s 270th

Marking its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin (VC) has celebrated in grand style, exemplified by the year’s latest, a pair of double-dial grand complications: Les Cabinotiers Cosmica Duo and Les Cabinotiers Moon Dust. Initial thoughts Each of the new Les Cabinotiers watches expresses a different facet of VC’s watchmaking identity. The Cosmica Duo stands out as a true wrist-worn observatory, combining 24 astronomical indications with a reversible construction that makes it unusually wearable for its complexity, while the baguette-set Moon Dust translates horological ambition into pure jewellery, with hundreds of diamonds framing a movement that remains uncompromisingly mechanical. As a group, these watches reinforce the idea that VC’s greatest strength lies in synthesis. Few manufactures can move so fluidly between engineering precision and artistic refinement, or treat engraving, gem-setting, and chiming mechanisms as parallel forms of expression. As unique pieces, pricing is largely outside the scope of this hands-on evaluation. As is typical for VC’s bespoke Les Cabinotiers department, each watch was almost certainly developed in close collaboration with its eventual owner, making them more commissions than catalogue items. Their value, therefore, lies not only in their material complexity but also in the fact that each represents a personal chapter in the continuing story of Geneva’s oldest watchmaker. The layered architecture of the Cosmica Duo. Image ...

Longines Hydroconquest Review: So Much Watch For $2,000 Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Nov 11, 2025

Longines Hydroconquest Review: So Much Watch For $2,000

The Longines Hydroconquest has been around since its debut in 2007 and in that time it has come to be one of the staple entry level luxury dive watches. And it’s certainly for good reason considering just how much quality is on offer for the price which is in no small part thanks to the brand’s positioning under the Swatch Group umbrella. Derived from the classic Longines Conquest collection, the Hydroconquest is a decidedly un-vintage inspired dive watch that rather leans into contemporary design. Given how much safer a vintage-inspired design is these days, I give Longines a lot of credit for developing and nurturing this collection over the last 18 years. After all, having the Legend Diver as a sibling sets a rather high bar. The Hydroconquest was refreshed back in 2018 when it gained a ceramic bezel which, quaint as it might seem today, was not such a universally available option at the price point. Here I will get into the standard model as well as the excellent GMT iteration that was released back in 2023. [toc-section heading="Longines Hydroconquest Case"] This watch is available in several case size iterations ranging from a 32mm quartz model all the way up to a 43mm all black ceramic case iteration. I want to talk about the 41mm size which is also likely the most popular for obvious reasons. Measuring 41mm wide and 11.9mm thick with a 51.1mm lug-to-lug height, the Hydroconquest does stretch out onto the higher side of that 50mm L2L, meaning it wears on the big...

It’s Not Easy Being Green – Except for the Seiko Alpinist SJX Watches
Seiko Alpinist Seiko’s evergreen mountaineering Nov 7, 2025

It’s Not Easy Being Green – Except for the Seiko Alpinist

Seiko’s evergreen mountaineering companion, the Prospex Alpinist, enters its fourth decade with its fourth major update. The 2025 edition gains an a longer power reserve, a scratch-resistant Diashield case coating, and - most notably - the return of vintage styling cues from the first generation, including the italic “Alpinist” signature on the dial. The new generation (refs. SPB503, SPB505, SPB507) debuts in variants including the signature forest green, along with a limited edition of the outgoing generation exclusively for Singapore, Hong Kong, Macau, Malaysia, and Brunei in an icy white (ref. SPB532). Though it commands a slightly higher price than the outgoing model, the enhancements make it a more capable and durable field watch, keeping the value proposition firmly intact. Initial thoughts This year the iconic green-and-gilt Alpinist turns 30, though it seems to have aged gracefully, with the latest generation being the best since its original debut. Though the Prospex “X” emblem and “three days” script depart from the model’s earlier design, the return of the “Alpinist” script is a welcome touch. Personally, I’ve always favoured its bigger brother, the Landmaster, which has higher specs for a higher price. But for most aspiring mountaineers, the much more accessible and conventionally attractive Alpinist is a better option. Since early references of the Alpinist are incredibly difficult to find – at least by Seiko standards – the new ...

Windup Watch Fair NYC 2025 Recap: Ten Years In and Still Breaking the Mold Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Oris Nov 5, 2025

Windup Watch Fair NYC 2025 Recap: Ten Years In and Still Breaking the Mold

Ten years in, and the Windup Watch Fair still feels like a completely new way to interact with the watch industry. For three days in midtown Manhattan, Center415 transformed from a sleek Fifth Avenue venue into the living, breathing heart of watch enthusiast culture. No velvet ropes, no VIP lists-just open doors, multiple halls full of watches, and a community that’s grown from a scrappy gathering of enthusiasts into one of the most important fixtures on the watch industry’s calendar, with over 11,000 attendees. This year marked the fair’s tenth anniversary, and we didn’t celebrate quietly. We expanded the layout to four full halls, bringing together more than 140 brands from 17 countries. We’d like to sincerely thank our Lead Sponsors: Bremont, Bulova, Christopher Ward, Oris, and Shinola. Without these strong anchors this experience wouldn’t be free and open to everyone. We’d also like to express our gratitude to each and every brand who participated, bringing some of the most interesting watches and products to the event and continuing to nudge the industry forward! When guests arrived, they entered through the EDC Expo, presented by Topo Designs-an energetic reception area filled with the gear, tools, and accessories that round out modern enthusiast life: knives, pens, packs, and all the small essentials that speak the same design language as the watches themselves. Beyond that, three additional halls awaited, each blending independent and enthusiast b...

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGM255 And SBGM257 - New Dials For The Dressy GMT Fratello
Grand Seiko SBGM255 Nov 5, 2025

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGM255 And SBGM257 - New Dials For The Dressy GMT

The Grand Seiko SBGM255 and SBGM257 bring two new dials to the classic Elegance Collection GMT. Both models preserve the 39.5mm stainless steel case and mechanical caliber 9S66 but introduce fresh dial designs inspired by the seasons. These new references serve up a restrained evolution of a design that has been a Grand Seiko cornerstone […] Visit Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGM255 And SBGM257 - New Dials For The Dressy GMT to read the full article.

10 Of The Most Complicated Watches For Every Budget Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 5, 2025

10 Of The Most Complicated Watches For Every Budget

In the wild world of watches, the words “affordable” and “complicated” are most often mutually exclusive. The more complicated a piece is, I think, the more we all brace ourselves to expect the correlation of a dramatic surge in price. It’s par for the course. But in recent years, there have been some watchmakers out there that have dared to do the unexpected, to bring high complications down to the realm of mortal purchasing power. As always, measuring affordability remains a personal conundrum, but there is no denying that there are now options for perpetual calendars, jump hours, and the like that are now paired with a more easily digestible price tag.  In today’s guide, I’m tipping my hat to the various watch brands out there that have invested time and resources into leveling the playing field, crafting pieces of high horology that are more accessible than ever before. Across 10 pieces, we’re running the gamut of style and utility, but each piece is unique in its own way, and definitely worthy of your consideration if you’re looking for a complicated watch at a not-so-complicated price point.  Christopher Ward Bel Canto  Case: 41mm Material: Grade 5 Titanium Movement: Caliber FS01 Automatic Water Resistance: Price: Starts at $3,995 The only logical jumping off point for a guide such as this is with the watch that revolutionized haute-horology bells and whistles at an unheard-of price tag: the Bel Canto from British maker Christopher Ward. You’ve...

Minase Introduces Handcrafted Yusai Dials For Its 5 Windows Mid, 7 Windows, And Divido Watches Fratello
Minase Nov 3, 2025

Minase Introduces Handcrafted Yusai Dials For Its 5 Windows Mid, 7 Windows, And Divido Watches

Tokyo-based artist Towa Takaya creates pigments from soil, plants, and minerals gathered during her travels, which she then uses to craft watch dials. Now, Minase is introducing handcrafted Yusai dials made by her for its 5 Windows Mid, 7 Windows, and Divido watches. Takaya’s goal is to create a dial showing the essence of nature […] Visit Minase Introduces Handcrafted Yusai Dials For Its 5 Windows Mid, 7 Windows, And Divido Watches to read the full article.

Who Was Roger Dubuis? - The Life And Work Of The Master Watchmaker With A Taste For The Extravagant Fratello
Roger Dubuis ? - Nov 1, 2025

Who Was Roger Dubuis? - The Life And Work Of The Master Watchmaker With A Taste For The Extravagant

So far, we’ve introduced you to Abraham-Louis Breguet, who set up shop 250 years ago, and the “Breguet of the 20th Century,” English watchmaker and inventor of the Co-Axial escapement, George Daniels. In the spirit of independent watchmaking and the brand’s 30th anniversary, Fratello now invites you to get acquainted with Monsieur Roger Dubuis (1938–2017), […] Visit Who Was Roger Dubuis? - The Life And Work Of The Master Watchmaker With A Taste For The Extravagant to read the full article.