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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

First Look – Vanguart Releases New Versions of the Orb Flying Tourbillon in Coloured Ceramic Monochrome
Vanguart Apr 29, 2026

First Look – Vanguart Releases New Versions of the Orb Flying Tourbillon in Coloured Ceramic

Independent watchmaker Vanguart presented its first timepiece, the impressive Black Hole Tourbillon, in 2021, followed by a “slightly more accessible design,” the Orb Flying Tourbillon (2024). Despite its more approachable concept, this creation remains one of the more unconventional in contemporary haute horlogerie. Now, two new executions soften the radical model: the Orb Pink Ceramic […]

Introducing: The Patek Philippe 5322G Brings A More Modern-Sized And Styled Chiming Alarm Function To The Catalog (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Patek Philippe 5322G Brings Apr 28, 2026

Introducing: The Patek Philippe 5322G Brings A More Modern-Sized And Styled Chiming Alarm Function To The Catalog (Live Pics)

What We Know Unveiled as part of a slew of new releases for Watches and Wonders 2026, the Patek Philippe 5322G offers a chiming 24-hour alarm complication in a modern case and design, with a new movement and a slightly smaller size than the discontinued model it replaces. The watch is housed in a white gold 41mm Calatrava case that's 12.22mm thick and features hollowed-out lugs, the brand's signature 'Clous de Paris' or "hobnail" guilloché pattern on the case middle, and a single pusher at 2 o'clock. The alarm is programmed through the pusher, and it can be set via the crown in the second position, which the brand says works "intuitively."  With a water resistance of 30 meters, Patek says the new 5322G is the only water-resistant chiming watch in the current collection. The new model replaces the Ref. 5520 Pilot Alarm Travel Time, which debuted in 2019 and was inspired by an historical aviator watch in the Patek museum in Geneva. Photo courtesy Patek Philippe. The model continues Patek's modern Calatrava style with a textured, lacquered dial in green or blue. The applied Arabic numerals and white-gold, syringe-style hands are both filled with luminescent material, adding to the contemporary feel. A hand display date sits at 6 o'clock, while the double-window aperture of the alarm function sits above the handset at 12 o'clock. Powering the 5322G is the new self-winding AL 30-660 S C caliber that chimes the alarm with a single hammer striking a classic gong around the case...

Revisiting The Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Hands-On Review WatchAdvice
Frederique Constant Apr 27, 2026

Revisiting The Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Hands-On Review

As Raymond Weil comes out of their shell, so do more incredible timepieces. But have they hit a new peak with the Freelancer Complete Calendar? Let’s find out! What We Love: An elegant and versatile design Quality-of-life upgrades to a classic complication Excellent value proposition with few competitors What We Don’t: Movement finishing somewhat lacklustre The calendar is hard to see from a distance Do we need the lume? Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 This article was originally published as Is The New Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Their Best Yet?  There’s a rapid surge happening in watchmaking right now. No, I’m not talking about the newly imposed 39% U.S. tariffs on Swiss watches (though that’s a story in itself), but rather the quiet re-emergence of the middle market. As household names climb further upmarket, a new wave of brands are pushing harder than ever, flexing their creative and horological muscles to prove what they’re truly capable of. Christopher Ward is one; Frederique Constant and Maurice Lacroix are others. But perhaps the most impressive contender in this power shift is none other than Raymond Weil. Nearly 50 years young, the family-owned independent has been quietly racking up achievements and accolades. Their breakout moment came with the GPHG-winning Millésime collection, followed by ambitious world timers and flyback chronographs — complications that once f...

Introducing: The Bulova Lunar Pilot Black Hole [Live Pics] Hodinkee
Bulova Lunar Pilot Black Hole Apr 27, 2026

Introducing: The Bulova Lunar Pilot Black Hole [Live Pics]

What We Know Bulova nerds, rejoice! Finally, after years and years of customers and collectors pleading, the Lunar Pilot is now available in a smaller size. Now, if you were hoping that you'd be able to run out and buy the classic Lunar Pilot design just downsized a bit, sadly, you're not in luck for now. But those looking for a twist on the original may be intrigued, as Bulova introduces the smaller case size in a new, blacked-out design called the Lunar Pilot Black Hole. The new case maintains the cushion-cased silhouette of the original, but is slimmed down from the original 43.5mm diameter to 41mm. The case thickness is 13.05mm, and the lug-to-lug is 48mm. The matte finish of the case and bracelet is achieved through sandblasting and PVD coating, lending it a stealthy look with a darkness that permeates the entire design. Parts like the crown, chronograph pushers, and top bezel ring are in glossy black PVD. The dial also leans completely monochromatic, with grey accents on the sandblasted hands and applied hour markers, and grey printing of the minute track, Bulova logo, and sundial markings. The base of the dial itself is coated in Musou black paint, which theoretically absorbs 99.4% of light for a truly black look. A nice touch is the grey Super-LumiNova on the indices and hands that glow blue in the dark. Sitting underneath the tall sapphire crystal is an internal tachymeter in relief, adding an extra layer of dimensionality to the dial. While the 60-minute counter ...

First Look – The new Venezianico Arsenale Calendario, An Accessible Take on the Integrated Bracelet Watch Monochrome
Venezianico Arsenale Calendario Apr 27, 2026

First Look – The new Venezianico Arsenale Calendario, An Accessible Take on the Integrated Bracelet Watch

Founded in 2017, Italian brand Venezianico has caught attention with its stylish, well-priced watches that often play around with materials and design. From pieces inspired by Venetian architecture to a recent Redentore with a guilloché pattern depicting the Venetian lagoon’s tides, there is usually a bit of character in what they do. Inspired by the […]

Photo Report: The Sights, Watches, And Style Of Watches & Wonders 2026 Hodinkee
Ming experience Apr 24, 2026

Photo Report: The Sights, Watches, And Style Of Watches & Wonders 2026

Each year, as spring returns to the shores of Lake Geneva, bringing with it contrasting days of grey rainy dreariness and crisp, shimmering sunshine, a storm descends upon the picturesque canton. But this storm doesn't contain the aforementioned April showers; instead, it's thousands upon thousands of passionate professionals, journalists, retailers, brand representatives, and collectors, all congregating for that most celebrated of horological weeks: Watches & Wonders. For those who attend, it is a marathon of epic proportions, with days spent rushing from one appointment to the next with barely a moment to breathe and evenings spent either at fabulous dinners or hunched over laptops until the wee hours of the morning. It's a pace that gives you whiplash (and for those who work for the brands, be it in sales, PR, marketing, or otherwise, it is even more grueling). For everyone else following along at home with a love for watches, it is the Super Bowl, Christmas Morning, and the Emerald City at the end of the Yellow Brick Road, all rolled into one. Walking into the show for the first time is an overwhelming experience. The sheer scope and scale of the installations (to call them 'booths' deeply undersells the grandeur) are hard to understand. Each brand spends months, if not years, designing and building entire flagship boutiques within the halls of Palexpo, each trying to make an impact on the industry and communicate its themes, strategies, and identity for the coming ye...

Hands-on – The Otsuka Lotec No.8 Refines Jiro Katayama’s Industrial Language Monochrome
Otsuka Lotec Apr 24, 2026

Hands-on – The Otsuka Lotec No.8 Refines Jiro Katayama’s Industrial Language

We wouldn’t go as far as to say that there’s something fundamentally different about the way Jiro Katayama approaches watchmaking. After all, industrial design, be it cars, instruments, or machinery, has inspired and defined quite a few independents. Still, most start from horology and branch outward, yet the mind behind Otsuka Lotec comes directly from […]

Introducing: The MING Polymesh Straight Brings The Wild Hybrid Strap/Bracelet To More Watches Hodinkee
Massena Lab all part Apr 23, 2026

Introducing: The MING Polymesh Straight Brings The Wild Hybrid Strap/Bracelet To More Watches

What We Know Fans of titanium watches now have another truly notable bracelet/strap option for their favorite titanium watches, as Ming has just announced that the brand's frankly jaw-dropping Polymesh bracelet will now be sold in a straight springbar setup. Ming launched the original Polymesh spec back in October of last year, with curved links designed to work well with the brand's own watches. As of today, all 1742 components of this impressive design are now compatible with watches featuring 20mm lug widths, no curved spring bar needed.  For those who need a refresher, the Polymesh is a titanium design that is technically a bracelet but wears like a piece of fabric. It's soft, flowy, and incredibly comfortable. As mentioned, it's a 3D-printed design printed in place using laser sintering with titanium powder. This includes the buckle and endlinks. There are no pins or screws in the design; only the quick-change spring bars are added after the grade-5 titanium bracelet has been printed (which takes about 20 hours).  Just as with the original curved-end version, the Polymesh Straight will retail for CHF $1,500 (~$1,900) with first-week availability limited to Ming, Fears, and Massena LAB (all part of the Alternative Horological Alliance), after which, availability will also include Ming's own retail locations and partners.  What We Think I'll cut to the chase here: I love a good strap and/or bracelet, I have a handful of titanium watches, and this is a release I have ...

Watches & Wonders: Bremont Goes Upmarket With the Supernova Tourbillon and a Vintage-Styled Chronograph With a Historic Movement Worn & Wound
Bremont Goes Upmarket Apr 22, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Bremont Goes Upmarket With the Supernova Tourbillon and a Vintage-Styled Chronograph With a Historic Movement

For Watches and Wonders 2026, Bremont is aiming for the stars: not only with the Supernova Chronograph, a new space-oriented lineup that will actually go to the moon, but also showcasing what the British brand can do with a pair of upmarket, collectible chronographs. One of them features an in-house tourbillon movement, while the other resurrects an vaunted historic movement in an elegant, limited-edition, and vintage-inspired design.  The Supernova Chronograph, also making its debut in Geneva at Watches & Wonders, is the first of a new line for Bremont, a steel sports watch with an integrated bracelet and a generously-sized 41mm case. But Bremont is also using its architecture to debut the brand’s second tourbillon movement, following 2024’s Terra Nova Dual Time Tourbillon. This time around, the Supernova Tourbillon exhibits a skeleton design with all of its movement bridges and tourbillon cage displayed around a black ceramic bezel and a sapphire crystal, with red jewels as the Supernova’s only exhibition of color.  Dramatically, the markers, bridges, Dauphine hands, and the tourbillon’s three markers glow with a bright blue Super-LumiNova, a nod to the space theme that the Supernova is aiming for.  If the Supernova Tourbillon is aimed at the future, Bremont’s other release has a distinctly vintage feel-starting from its movement. Bremont is resurrecting the Valjoux 23 two-register chronograph movement into its new Altitude Chronograph Pulsometer: a restor...

Watches & Wonders: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reintroduces the Master Control Collection and their “HPG” Designation Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reintroduces Apr 20, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reintroduces the Master Control Collection and their “HPG” Designation

In addition to a barrage of ultra high end novelties, Jaeger-LeCoultre this week has introduced the new Master Control Chronometre collection, with a focus on chronometric elegance with watches featuring a sleek new integrated bracelet sports watch design. Jaeger-LeCoultre has a long history, of course, of not just pure movement making and horology, but in providing certainty behind their movements through the Master Control collection, which was a testing certification conducted in-house over 1,000 hours. The Master Control Chronometre collection continues that tradition while also filling a gap in the brand’s catalog: a (relatively) accessible everyday watch that is not a Reverso.  Before getting into the watches themselves, we’ll start with an overview of what “Master Control” really means in 2026. This collection reintroduces the brand’s “High Precision Guarantee” designation, which is an update of an old standard first used on JLC’s Calibre 916, their renowned 4 Hz caliber introduced in 1970. The new HPG designation evaluates performance across four metrics: altitude (certifying that the watch can withstand pressure up to 1004 meters above sea level, the altitude of the JLC manufacture), multi-directional shocks, testing in multiple positions, and variances across temperature. Jaeger-LeCoultre has developed new machinery to test for these conditions, which the brand says can simulate real world use over a long duration in just three days of actual tes...

Introducing – The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm and Khaki Field Mechanical 250 Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm Apr 20, 2026

Introducing – The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm and Khaki Field Mechanical 250

Founded in the United States and producing in Switzerland now, Hamilton returns to one of its lesser-seen military references with a new Khaki Field Mechanical watch, this time offered in two versions released side by side. On the one hand, the Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm is a globally available model that brings back the design […]

My Time With The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Glacier 35mm Fratello
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Glacier 35mm There’s Apr 19, 2026

My Time With The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Glacier 35mm

There’s something refreshing about wearing a watch that doesn’t try too hard. In a world of oversized cases, aggressive designs, and spec lists that stretch into the stratosphere, a simple 35mm watch can feel almost rebellious. That’s exactly the impression I had after spending time with the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Glacier 35mm, a watch that quietly […] Visit My Time With The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Glacier 35mm to read the full article.

Introducing – The Two-Tone Zenith Chronomaster Sport, Now with a Mother-of-Pearl Dial Monochrome
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Now Apr 17, 2026

Introducing – The Two-Tone Zenith Chronomaster Sport, Now with a Mother-of-Pearl Dial

The Chronomaster Sport already has most of what you expect from a robust, modern sports chronograph, most often seen in stainless steel with a ceramic bezel. Beating inside is Zenith’s high-frequency El Primero movement, one of the best-known high-beat chronograph calibres out there. Alongside the full steel versions, Zenith has also pushed this design a […]

Live from WWG26: highlight of the new releases from IWC Deployant
IWC DEPLOYANT - Apr 17, 2026

Live from WWG26: highlight of the new releases from IWC

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors For this year, IWC released several novelties, including the Big Pilot Petit Prince and the big novelty is the space Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive. A very clear dial layout which is of the Pilot’s Vertical Drive is built from the ground up. The closed case back is a design choice to make the watch as [...] The post Live from WWG26: highlight of the new releases from IWC appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

First Look – The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric 30th-Anniversary Trilogy, with Hand-Hammered Dials Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric 30th-Anniversary Trilogy Apr 16, 2026

First Look – The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric 30th-Anniversary Trilogy, with Hand-Hammered Dials

Master watchmaker and restorer Michel Parmigiani’s original Toric QP Rétrograde was Parmigiani Fleurier’s foundational watch marking the brand’s launch in 1996. Following the appointment of Guido Terreni in 2021, many of Michel Parmigiani’s models were put on standby to allow Terreni to chart the brand’s new design direction, with a primary focus on the Tonda […]

First Look – The New IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 in Dark Olive Green Ceramic Monochrome
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 Apr 16, 2026

First Look – The New IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 in Dark Olive Green Ceramic

When IWC revived the Ingenieur in 2023, it did so by returning to Gérald Genta’s integrated-bracelet design, with functional screws, a structured dial and an emphasis on all things technical. Last year’s full-black ceramic Ingenieur Automatic 42 was quite exemplary. For 2026, IWC takes a more nuanced step with the Ingenieur Automatic 42 in dark […]

The Piaget Polo Signature Brings Gadroons To The Contemporary Polo Line Fratello
Piaget Polo Signature Brings Gadroons Apr 16, 2026

The Piaget Polo Signature Brings Gadroons To The Contemporary Polo Line

The new Piaget Polo Signature models introduced at Watches and Wonders 2026 bring a historically inspired design element back to the contemporary Piaget Polo line. Two sets of his-and-hers versions and three rose gold variants get the gadroon treatment, a direct visual link to the original 1979 Polo concept. While it is perhaps a subtle […] Visit The Piaget Polo Signature Brings Gadroons To The Contemporary Polo Line to read the full article.