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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Citizen Introduces Two New Limited-Edition Photon Models That Take Eco-Drive To The Next Level Fratello
Citizen Introduces Two New Limited-Edition Mar 23, 2026

Citizen Introduces Two New Limited-Edition Photon Models That Take Eco-Drive To The Next Level

Last week, I reported on a new high-end Citizen Eco-Drive 50th Anniversary Edition with a beautiful green washi (Japanese paper) dial. In the same week, Citizen also introduced two new watches powered by a brand-new Eco-Drive caliber. The new lightweight Photon models feature state-of-the-art dials that combine an intriguing design with the latest in Citizen’s […] Visit Citizen Introduces Two New Limited-Edition Photon Models That Take Eco-Drive To The Next Level to read the full article.

The Chase-Durer Wing Commander X: A Look at Every Wannabe Fighter Pilot’s Wrist Companion Worn & Wound
Mar 20, 2026

The Chase-Durer Wing Commander X: A Look at Every Wannabe Fighter Pilot’s Wrist Companion

There comes a time in every watch collector’s life when they fall in love with a watch they know others in the hobby may potentially scoff at. Whether it be misconceptions around the brand, the use of cheaper movements and parts, seedy advertising campaigns, or just overall subjective taste in design, it’s a phenomenon that exists as one of the very few downsides of the collecting space. It’s important to note, however, that this frame of mind lies on a spectrum of course, with some watches being far more notable enemies of the wristwatch state than others. The Chase-Durer Wing Commander X is a watch that has fallen into the cracks of the watch market and a piece, I believe, may initially conjure negative sentiments by some corners of the collecting sphere.  Chase-Durer was originally advertised in magazines and on the very early days of the internet, where zealous dial-up internet subscribers would surf the World Wide Web in hopes of making their very first online purchase. They never held the same staying power as others of the watch industry, akin to the 38mm mail-order film cameras found in years’ worth of popular and print media when compared to Canon or Nikon. However, there is a lot to like about the brand and, in this case, the Wing Commander X. If you’re someone who’s on the fence about whether or not you’re a fan of this watch just from aesthetics and brand recognition alone, welcome in––let me walk you through what makes this an interesting pi...

Introducing – Dominique Renaud Launches New Brand and Presents the One-Hertz-Beating Pulse60 Watch Monochrome
Mar 17, 2026

Introducing – Dominique Renaud Launches New Brand and Presents the One-Hertz-Beating Pulse60 Watch

If high-frequency is often marketed as the pinnacle of precision in modern watchmaking, things are actually more nuanced and more about managing the inevitable trade-offs. Every gain in one area usually comes with a drawback elsewhere. Although he has already worked on high-frequency, low amplitude oscillators, industry veteran Dominique Renaud is now taking the opposite […]

Long-Term Review: Five Years Owning The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch And Omega Seamaster 300 Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Mar 17, 2026

Long-Term Review: Five Years Owning The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch And Omega Seamaster 300

Inspired by RJ’s recent article on five years of owning the Omega’s current Moonwatch, today, I’ll reflect on my experience. Indeed, 2021 was a barnstorming year for Omega. On the first Tuesday of 2021, the brand released an updated Moonwatch with many design and quality improvements. Then, in March, came a slew of new references, […] Visit Long-Term Review: Five Years Owning The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch And Omega Seamaster 300 to read the full article.

The Best Jump-Hour Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 16, 2026

The Best Jump-Hour Watches

For a watch-enthusiast raised on traditional analog timekeeping, jump-hour watches do not necessarily present the easiest or most intuitive way to read the time on their dials, but they inarguably offer one of the most dynamic ways to do so. Instead of a slow-moving central hand to indicate the hour, watches with a “jumping” design rely on a numbered disk that flips instantly to the next hour numeral at the start of each new 60-minute period. These disks most often operate behind a round aperture and are usually paired with either a similarly rotating disk for the minutes or, perhaps, with an analog hand for an interesting hybrid design. And while they may seem decidedly avant-garde in their aesthetic, watchmakers have incorporated this style of time display in their movements for over a century. Here is a look at eight of our favorites from recent years.  [toc-section heading="A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date"] The Zeitwerk, which German luxury watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne introduced in 2009, is technically a “digital” watch, but it isn’t like any other one you’ve ever seen: there are no electronics, no LCD screens, and you won’t find it at your local big box store. The Lange Zeitwerk Date flies in the ionosphere of high horology, with a 44.2mm round case, made of 18k white gold or rose gold, framing an intricately crafted dial that boasts a jumping-hour digital display, powered by the manually-wound L043.8 movement. Every detail of this watch is a handcraft...

Introducing – Indie Brand Akhor Launches the Lumiere Blanche Editions Monochrome
Mar 16, 2026

Introducing – Indie Brand Akhor Launches the Lumiere Blanche Editions

Geneva-based independent brand Akhor presented its inaugural Le Temps en Équilibre collection in 2025, built around a patented dual-disc display system, and it was immediately recognised for its innovative dial concept and proprietary movement. The new Lumière Blanche editions expand the concept with a new artistic direction, where white becomes the central design element. The […]

Serica Introduces the 5330 Dive Chronometer Worn & Wound
Serica Introduces Mar 13, 2026

Serica Introduces the 5330 Dive Chronometer

One of watchmaking’s simplest but most iconic complications, the date window, is the source of much admiration, and yes, a little bit of ire. One of the biggest points of contention on any inclusion of a date window is the balancing of it on the dial; after all, how do you place it to not ruin the symmetry (or asymmetry) of a carefully-crafted design? With their new Ref. 5330 Dive Chronometer, Serica has chosen a sleek solution for their first date window inclusion: nestle it at 3 o’clock, taking the place of the marker, and give it a crisp red accent to stand out. Sure, it’s not necessarily revolutionary, but it adds a sophisticated touch to an already clean dial. The core tenets of the 5330’s design carry over from other models in Serica’s Dive Chronometer lineup, with circular hour markers and a double graduation bezel being the most recognizable, and a 39mm 316L stainless steel case housing an identical SoProd M100 Swiss automatic movement. The matte black dial and anthracite-grey outer bezel ring contrast with the steel of the inner bezel and case, and the cream Super-LumiNova on the hands and hour markers. Similarly, the cream date window and red numeral add both a sense of cohesion and a highly legible flash of color to give the dial an extra layer of aesthetic complication. It’s certainly a welcome addition visually, and keeps the design from feeling too austere.  At 12.2mm in thickness and 46.5mm lug-to-lug, the 5330 is sized well for most wrists, and...

Fratello Talks: The Microbrands To Watch In 2026 Fratello
Mar 12, 2026

Fratello Talks: The Microbrands To Watch In 2026

The microbrand segment of the watch industry has evolved dramatically over the last decade. What once felt like a niche corner of the horology world has grown into a thriving ecosystem of small companies producing thoughtful, design-driven watches. Some focus on value, others on originality, and a few are beginning to push the boundaries of […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Microbrands To Watch In 2026 to read the full article.

The 10 Most Important Vintage Digital Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 6, 2026

The 10 Most Important Vintage Digital Watches

Digital watches - at least, those of the electronic variety - have only been around for just over half a century at this point, which is a relatively brief moment in the totality of watch history. Nevertheless, they have exerted in that time an outsized influence on the technological and design evolution of the watch industry as well as on the overall culture. As the term “vintage” has been widely interpreted these days to describe any object more than 20 years old, here is our list of the 10 most important “vintage” digital watches (including a handful of worthy analog-digital models). And good news for fans of their retro style: many of them still live on in some form today.  [toc-section heading="Breitling Emergency (1995)"] Introduced in 1995, the Breitling Emergency is literally a watch that has saved lives. The first watch with a built-in micro-transmitter that operated on an international air distress frequency, enabling a pilot to contact search-and-rescue teams after an emergency or crash landing. In 2015, after the original had racked up many notable exploits, Breitling launched the second-generation Emergency II, which added a dual-frequency personal locator beacon (PLB), that can both issue alerts as well as guide rescuers to the wearer’s location by accessing a network of satellites and ground receiving stations. The analog-digital display, powered by Breitling’s thermocompensated SuperQuartz movement, offers an array of indicators including 1...

Hands-On With The Zenith Defy Revival A3643 Fratello
Zenith Defy Revival A3643 During Mar 5, 2026

Hands-On With The Zenith Defy Revival A3643

During LVMH Watch Week in Milan, I was especially interested in the new Zenith releases. It is no secret that I love Zenith. The brand has managed to amaze me time and again with releases that combine the best in watch design with its legendary calibers. To my surprise, for this year’s LVMH Watch Week, […] Visit Hands-On With The Zenith Defy Revival A3643 to read the full article.

Hands-on – Nomos Goes Precious, with the Elegant Tangente Gold and Ludwig Gold (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Nomos Goes Precious Mar 4, 2026

Hands-on – Nomos Goes Precious, with the Elegant Tangente Gold and Ludwig Gold (Incl. Video)

Every brand at one point dreamt of having an icon on their hands. A cornerstone model that stands the test of time, design trends, and, more importantly, captures the hearts of fans and collectors worldwide, indefinitely. Watches like the Lange 1, the Submariner, the Nautilus, the Speedmaster or the Royal Oak. For Nomos, even though […]

Introducing – The Matte, Monochromatic Gerald Charles Masterlink Boutique Edition Monochrome
Gerald Charles Mar 3, 2026

Introducing – The Matte, Monochromatic Gerald Charles Masterlink Boutique Edition

With the Masterlink Boutique Edition, Gerald Charles aims to reinforce its preference for controlled distribution and direct customer dialogue. Available only through the brand’s boutiques in Geneva and Nagoya, this limited edition follows the earlier Masterlink series. First introduced in 2024, the Masterlink asymmetric case builds on the Maestro design by Gérald Charles Genta, featuring […]

Introducing: The Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Ruby Fratello
Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Ruby Mar 3, 2026

Introducing: The Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Ruby

Time flies when everything resonates nicely, doesn’t it? It sure does for Armin Strom. No fewer than 10 years have passed since the independent Swiss house launched its breakthrough resonance mechanism. Although not actively marketed as an anniversary model, I reckon it is safe to say this rather exuberant version, the Armin Strom Mirrored Force […] Visit Introducing: The Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Ruby to read the full article.

Christopher Ward Introduces the C1 Jump Hour Mk V “Dusk” Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces Mar 2, 2026

Christopher Ward Introduces the C1 Jump Hour Mk V “Dusk” Limited Edition

One of the more unexpected developments in the enthusiast watch space over the laste year or has been the emergence of the jump hour as a staple among design driven and creative microbrands and affordable independents. It seems like they are popping up just about everywhere at price points that encourage collectors to take a chance on a very niche complication. For those of us who have been around this stuff for a while, it’s genuinely been kind of surprising, as we can clearly remember a time when very few people gave these watches a second thought, and smaller brands were absolutely not interested in putting watches like these into the market. The jump hour is pretty far removed from the vintage inspired sports watches that have had a stranglehold on affordable watch enthusiasm in recent memory.  But as the pendulum swings in another direction, the more brands are finding an opportunity to experiment with this very old fashioned complication. Christopher Ward is actually no stranger to jump hour watches, having released their first back in 2011. Their latest is still powered by the venerable JJ01 movement, a caliber that predicted much of the brand’s future success and interest in higher end watchmaking.  The C1 Jump Hour Mk V in “Dusk” red is the brand’s latest, and limited edition variant of the Jump Hour Mk V that Griffin reviewed here. The broad strokes are of course the same: a 39mm steel case measuring 47.5mm from lug to lug and 14mm thick, with a multi...

Hands-On With The Kudoke 5 - A Piece Of Art For Your Wrist Fratello
Mar 1, 2026

Hands-On With The Kudoke 5 - A Piece Of Art For Your Wrist

Part of the fascination that drives my interest in watches is the endless variations in design and, even more so, completely new ideas that result in something I have never seen before. Most of these true innovations come from small independent brands that do not need to cater to the mass market. Recently, I was […] Visit Hands-On With The Kudoke 5 - A Piece Of Art For Your Wrist to read the full article.

Dryden Introduces Updates to the Chrono Diver Collection Worn & Wound
Feb 26, 2026

Dryden Introduces Updates to the Chrono Diver Collection

With all the challenges that come with owning vintage watches-servicing, wear on components, wildly varying valuation-sometimes it’s easier to look for something that simply looks vintage instead. Thankfully, we’ve seen a wave of intriguing retro-style watches as of late, and the new Dryden Watch Company Chrono Diver Gen 2 collection brings even more 1970s design to the world of modern skin divers. While the first generation of Chrono Divers from Dryden covered relatively contemporary aesthetic points, like bright colors, high-contrast details with ultra-bright Super-LumiNova, rubber straps, and more, the second generation promises an adherence to more nostalgic design cues. While the new Chrono Divers sport the same modern 42mm case dimensions, the design itself is revised; a layered profile to integrate solid end links for a new tapered five-link bracelet and recessed pushers give the watches a sleeker silhouette that harkens back to simpler skin divers of the 1960s and 1970s, rather than the bulky beasts of today.  On the aesthetic end, three new colorways are available and though they largely mirror the dial designs of the first generation, the combinations themselves are much more muted in adherence to the new vintage look. The Black Vintage and PVD Vintage styles feature light yellow indices and hands over a black dial, with white chrono subdials, whereas the Blue Panda model swaps in a dressier white dial and hands with a blue bezel and subdials. Both color...

Introducing – The New Tissot T-Race MotoGP Automatic Chronograph 2026 Limited Edition Monochrome
Tissot T-Race MotoGP Automatic Chronograph Feb 26, 2026

Introducing – The New Tissot T-Race MotoGP Automatic Chronograph 2026 Limited Edition

Since becoming the official timekeeper of the MotoGP championship in 2001, Tissot has connected itself firmly to the sport through trackside timing systems and watches that speak the design language and mechanical intensity of motorcycle racing. The T-Race MotoGP collection was first introduced in 2003, and the brand has since created many motorsport-inspired references, with […]

First Look – The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, the Icon in Dark Mode Monochrome
IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium Feb 26, 2026

First Look – The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, the Icon in Dark Mode

Since its introduction in 1998, the classic IWC Portugieser Chronograph (ref. IW3914) has barely evolved visually. It has only undergone a technical upgrade in 2020, with the introduction of a new generation featuring a manufacture calibre inside (ref. IW3916). And that consistency in the design and overall sporty-chic, nautically-inspired spirit is what makes this watch […]