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Results for The Longitude Problem

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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

First Look - Inspired by a Cult French Novel, Czapek Unveils the Promenade L’Ecume des Jours Monochrome
Czapek Unveils Sep 18, 2026

First Look - Inspired by a Cult French Novel, Czapek Unveils the Promenade L’Ecume des Jours

Czapek launched the Promenade collection in 2024, an elegant line of compact, time-only dress watches that, in the words of CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel, serve as a “canvas for creative expression.” The latest addition to the family is the Promenade L’Écume des Jours, a tribute to the 1947 novel by French author Boris Vian, translated into […]

First Look - Singer Launches a New Collection with the 1970 DualTrack Monochrome
Singer Sep 18, 2026

First Look - Singer Launches a New Collection with the 1970 DualTrack

The high-end independent watch brand born from a passion for 1960s-1970s automotive design, Singer Reimagined was founded in 2017 by Rob Dickinson (of Singer Vehicle Design) and watch designer Marco Borraccino with motors produced by master watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (Agenhor). Departing from its lineup of track-ready chronographs, Singer introduced the DualTrack, a GMT with an […]

No Rush, Here’s The Anoma A1 Core Collection In Abyss Blue And Stone Gray Fratello
Anoma A1 Core Collection Sep 18, 2026

No Rush, Here’s The Anoma A1 Core Collection In Abyss Blue And Stone Gray

Microbrand watch releases can often be both fun and frustrating at the same time. You get all excited about the original design, the attractive price point, and the brand’s sympathetic founder. However, if there’s only a limited number of pieces available or a tight order window, you need to decide quickly, and that’s not always […] Visit No Rush, Here’s The Anoma A1 Core Collection In Abyss Blue And Stone Gray to read the full article.

Has Longines Mastered The Monopusher Chronograph? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Longines Mastered Sep 17, 2026

Has Longines Mastered The Monopusher Chronograph? (Hands-On)

Longines has put a new spin on another classic complication, but does the function translate to form? Let’s find out! What We Love: Modernised take on heritage design Big but easy to wear Ludicrous value proposition What We Don’t: Dial feels slightly shrunken Unusual clasp system Is a manual wind chrono still the way to go? Overall Rating: 9.25/10 Value for Money: 10/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Watch brands pay tribute to their heritage in different ways. Some do this by way of lineage, where iconic aspects of their design or craftsmanship are carried forward into the modern day. Others do this through innovation, respecting their history of disruptive advancement by introducing new technical breakthroughs with every consecutive piece. However, esteemed watch brand Longines takes a different route: reviving and overhauling watches from its exhaustive archives. Even a slight glance towards its catalogue is indicative of such dedication. Almost all of Longines’ watches, through both design and engineering, uphold what is nearing two centuries’ worth of tradition. But for as often as it loves to resurrect archival pieces, it does so in a way that feels organic to the brand’s longstanding philosophies. Earlier this year, that ethos manifested itself in the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve, a reintroduction of a timepiece from the lesser-known horological history of the 1950s. This time, they’ve gone even further back to the early...

Hands-On: The Apple Watch Series 12 And Ultra 4 Hodinkee
Ming from several versions back Sep 17, 2026

Hands-On: The Apple Watch Series 12 And Ultra 4

Another year, another generation of the Apple Watch. Like last year's Series 11 and Ultra 3, things have largely stayed the same. That said, there are still a few major under-the-hood updates and some new aesthetic changes, but we're still carrying over the Apple Watch's subtle tenth-anniversary redesign from a few years ago, so the familiar dimensions remain. That also holds true for the Ultra 4. Across the board, the main improvements come in a new, more powerful chip and a vastly improved health sensor equipped on the back of each watch. With iterative improvements like this in the yearly refresh cycle, this new generation offers a solid upgrade for those coming from several versions back, and less of a temptation for those fresh off last year's models. But there will always be those who avidly find every chance to upgrade to the next year's latest and greatest—Apple's got you covered with some fun additions, too. A Return To Ceramic 46mm Night Blue (left) and 42mm Pearl White (right) ceramics. To me, the most exciting news from this year's Apple Watch announcements was the return of ceramic as a case material. Titanium is cool and all, especially since all the latest titanium cases since last year have been 3D-printed, but there's something a little nerdier about an Apple Watch in ceramic. Apple introduced ceramic on the Apple Watch as early as the Series 3 in 2017. I was a happy owner of a 2019 Series 5 Apple Watch Edition in white ceramic, so my interest has natura...

Introducing: The Studio Underd0g x Ahmed Seddiqi "Chan3ad" (Kingfish) Limited Edition Hodinkee
Studio Underd0g x Ahmed Seddiqi Chan3ad Sep 17, 2026

Introducing: The Studio Underd0g x Ahmed Seddiqi "Chan3ad" (Kingfish) Limited Edition

What We Know Two years after Studio Underd0g released its Series03 chronograph—an upgraded monopusher with a Sellita movement—they've teamed up with the Dubai-based powerhouse Ahmed Seddiqi for a new version with a twist. The new Chan3ad (Arabic for "Kingfish") comes on the heels of Studio Underd0g's first appearance at Dubai Watch Week last year. The dial features two contrasting layers, inspired by the UAE's most prized gamefish, the kingfish. The fish has a blue-grey color with distinctive scales, represented by the top dial, which is also very textured. The lower layer is a sunburst brushed pink, representing the meat underneath, while the tip of the chronograph hand and 30-minute counter hand are yellow, like the lemon you'd squeeze over the top after you cook it. A fish-themed watch is in keeping with the existing Series03 "Salmon" but the tones are slightly different. All the numerals are in Eastern Arabic script. Cased in stainless steel, the watch measures 38.5mm by 13.6mm (almost 2mm of which is the domed sapphire crystal), with a 20mm lug width and 44.5mm lug-to-lug. As noted on the dial (a curious quirk of Studio Underd0g), the watch uses the manually wound Sellita SW510 M movement, a "Custom Special" version running at 4Hz and regulated to +/- 5 seconds per day. The movement has a 63-hour power reserve and a hacking system. The Studio Underd0g x Ahmed Seddiqi Chan3ad is delivered with two straps: one is a 20-to-16mm tapered stainless steel Milanese mesh, a...

Introducing - Studio Underd0g and Ahmed Seddiqi Go Fishing in the Gulf with the 03SERIES Chan3ad Monochrome
Studio Underd0g Sep 17, 2026

Introducing - Studio Underd0g and Ahmed Seddiqi Go Fishing in the Gulf with the 03SERIES Chan3ad

Since its launch, British independent brand Studio Underd0g has built a strong following with colourful, playful interpretations of familiar watchmaking formats and through collaborations with brands like H. Moser & Cie for the Passion Fruit, or the more accessible Gimlet with Fears. After the brand’s inaugural 01SERIES chronographs, released in multiple versions powered by a […]

The Foundation Haute Horlogerie Expands the FHH Academy by Partnering with the Gemological Institute of America Worn & Wound
Sep 17, 2026

The Foundation Haute Horlogerie Expands the FHH Academy by Partnering with the Gemological Institute of America

In 2014, the Foundation Haute Horlogerie (FHH) introduced the FHH Academy, a series of courses that span the fundamentals of watchmaking to culture and heritage as well as more advanced technical curriculums, catering to both industry professionals and enthusiasts. One of the most unique aspects of the program is that it’s offered entirely online in 11 different languages, resulting in participants across 20 countries worldwide. While accessibility has been at the FHH Academy’s core, there are also select courses offered in-person at the FHH headquarters in Geneva as an extension of the platform. Now, the academy is expanding once again as the FHH announces a new partnership with the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). The GIA is globally acknowledged as the foremost authority in gemology and a leader in the gem and jewelry sector. Since its founding in 1931, the organization has set the standard, educating more than 200,000 professionals worldwide across its seven campuses throughout the United States, Europe, and Asia. With its longstanding commitment to education and the dissemination of specialist knowledge within the luxury jewelry industry along with its global reputation and reach, the GIA presented itself as an incredible partner to expand its offerings into the world of horology and for the FHH to expand its in-person training. The partnership marks the first time the GIA has worked with an external entity and allowed trainers outside the institute to teac...

Introducing - The Kurono Tokyo Calendrier “Small Batch Release” in Saxe Blue Monochrome
Kurono Tokyo Calendrier “Small Batch Release” Sep 17, 2026

Introducing - The Kurono Tokyo Calendrier “Small Batch Release” in Saxe Blue

Hajime Asaoka, the celebrated Japanese master watchmaker, is renowned for his bespoke, high-end handmade watches. Aware that his pieces are beyond the reach of most mortals, Asaoka created Kurono Tokyo, a small independent brand that offers more accessible watches with Seiko or Miyota movements, imbued with a strong Japanese spirit. However, Kurono’s success means its […]

First Look - The Blancpain Lady B, a Small, Spherical and yet Mechanical Wrist-Worn Jewel Monochrome
Blancpain Lady B Sep 17, 2026

First Look - The Blancpain Lady B, a Small, Spherical and yet Mechanical Wrist-Worn Jewel

With its motto of never producing quartz watches, its manufacturing capabilities and its rich heritage in dive watches, Blancpain is often spontaneously associated with technical, masculine watchmaking. But this overlooks an important chapter in the brand’s history. In the middle of the 20th century, its development was driven by Betty Fiechter, a remarkable figure at […]

Introducing: Blancpain Celebrates The 70th Anniversary Of The Ladybird Collection With The Mini "Lady B" Revival Hodinkee
Blancpain Celebrates Sep 17, 2026

Introducing: Blancpain Celebrates The 70th Anniversary Of The Ladybird Collection With The Mini "Lady B" Revival

What We Know In 1932, a 36-year-old woman took a massive gamble early in her career at Blancpain. Betty Fiechter, who had worked for the brand since she was 16, faced a dilemma after the sudden death of the brand's owner, Frederic-Emile Blancpain. Together with commercial director Andre Leal, she helped secure loans to buy the company, even navigating the need to rename the manufacture because the Swiss government prevented anyone but someone with that name from using Blancpain. Fiechter would eventually mentor her nephew, Jean-Jacques Fiechter, and together they would inaugurate two of the brand's most successful icons: the Fifty Fathoms and the Ladybird. The original Ladybird Bullet The launch of the Ladybird in 1956 was a big deal, not just because a woman led a manufacturer in an era when women couldn't even vote in Switzerland. Inside the original Ladybird "Bullet" was the R55, the smallest round mechanical movement, and one with extra durability, with a fifth wheel to limit the force on the escapement and a shock protector on the balance wheel. It remains the smallest round mechanical movement to this day. To honor that watch, Fiechter, and the 70th anniversary of the Ladybird, Blancpain is releasing a new Lady B (for bullet, I'm sure, but also Betty and, according to the brand, bijou or "jewel") with very tiny dimensions. The watch measures a tiny 19mm by 13.2mm in either stainless steel or 18k red gold, with a total volume of only 2.9 cm³. Despite its size, it has...

Mechanical Resurrection: The New Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Chronograph Fratello
Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Chronograph Sep 17, 2026

Mechanical Resurrection: The New Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Chronograph

In a recent discussion I had with someone about Christopher Ward, the question of why the brand doesn’t have any mechanical chronographs in its collection came up. This stands out, as watch enthusiasts tend to love such pieces. But the English brand now has a new series of mechanical chronographs for the enthusiasts. The C63 […] Visit Mechanical Resurrection: The New Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Chronograph to read the full article.

Hot Take: Grand Seiko Introduces The SBGW325 Fratello
Grand Seiko Introduces Sep 17, 2026

Hot Take: Grand Seiko Introduces The SBGW325

Grand Seiko has just added the limited-edition SBGW325 to its Elegance Collection, paying tribute to the SBGW003 from 2001. That model was the first Grand Seiko to feature a manually wound 9S mechanical movement, the Caliber 9S54. The new watch revisits one of its most distinctive details, the blocky Arabic numerals, while introducing a deep […] Visit Hot Take: Grand Seiko Introduces The SBGW325 to read the full article.

Introducing - The New Ressence Art Watch Type 9 x Jules Wittock Monochrome
Ressence Art Watch Type 9 Sep 17, 2026

Introducing - The New Ressence Art Watch Type 9 x Jules Wittock

Founded in 2010 by industrial designer Benoît Mintiens, indie brand Ressence stands out from the crowd with its original and contemporary way of displaying time. Like planets orbiting the Sun, time circles around the dial thanks to the brand’s patented Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS). For the brand’s latest Art Watch, Ressence has teamed up […]

Grand Seiko Revives the 9S Arabic Numeral Dial SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Revives Sep 17, 2026

Grand Seiko Revives the 9S Arabic Numeral Dial

Grand Seiko is marking 25 years of its hand-wind 9S movement with the Elegance Collection SBGW325, a throwback to one of the earliest Grand Seiko limited edition models. The SBGW325 is modelled on the SBGW003, a 2001 limited edition that debuted the first-ever manual-wind 9S movement. Today’s SBGW325 is equipped with the latest generation of the same movement family, the 9S64, while reviving the distinctive dial design sporting raised Arabic numerals. Initial thoughts Grand Seiko rolls out limited edition on a regular basis, so the various editions tend to blend into each other. The SBGW325 manages to stand out because the dial design is distinctive; Grand Seiko has no employed this design on another model aside from the original of 2001. For that reason alone this would be one of the most appealing Grand Seiko limited editions in recent memory. But it’s not just the styling. Although the design is unique in today’s catalogue, the SBGW325 is relatively no frills in terms of movement and materials. The case is compact and steel, while the movement is the time-only 9S64, which makes this quite affordable, further adding to its appeal. Arabic numerals The original SBGW003 combined a cream dial with raised gold Arabic numerals and blued steel hands, resulting in an unusual look for Grand Seiko even today. The new SBGW325 preserves the design but iterates on the colours: the dial is matte blue with raised silver numerals, while the “GS” emblem and seconds hand are gil...

The IWC Ingenieur Celebrates a Big Anniversary Worn & Wound
IWC Ingenieur Celebrates Sep 16, 2026

The IWC Ingenieur Celebrates a Big Anniversary

The watch industry, as we know, never misses an opportunity to celebrate a milestone. This week marks 50 years of Gerald Genta’s Ingenieur, a watch that has existed in a variety of forms over the years, but was relaunched a few years ago in a widely celebrated new guise that feels almost spiritually connected to the original. The new limited editions released this week by IWC are available in both the standard 40mm size and the newer, more compact 35mm case, both with dials that play up the design’s inherent starkness.  The Ingenieur’s dial is most commonly associated with a distinctive grid pattern, but these LEs depart from that playbook for a dial that feels very metallic with vertical brushing and silver plating. It’s a reference, according to IWC, to an obscure Ingenieur reference from the original launch in 1976.  I’m struck by how simple and muted this dial is for a limited edition. We’ve been trained, I think, to think that special releases and limited editions should be louder than this, and recontextualize a watch into something that couldn’t exist in the main collection. This dial execution is about as simple as it gets, and while it presents quite differently than the mainline Ingenieurs with patterned dials, it wouldn’t be a challenge at all to imagine this watch as a permanent part of the IWC collection. It’s a clear play to history, which of course is fitting and expected for a 50th anniversary watch. It’s nice but maybe not particularl...

E.C. Andersson Introduces the Timepod, with a Unique Lug Release System Worn & Wound
Sep 16, 2026

E.C. Andersson Introduces the Timepod, with a Unique Lug Release System

The Swedish brand E.C. Andersson is one of my favorite “IYKYK” watchmakers. They had a modest hit a few years ago with their Mytilus, at least among a very specific type of watch collector who was ahead of the curve on the current trend for industrially finishished, retro-futuristic designs in odd case shapes that are having a moment right now (see: Otsuka Lotec and others). What makes E.C. Andersson compelling to me though is not just their aesthetic and design language, which is certainly very interesting, but their business model, and what they actually do as a brand. They are, essentially, a machine shop, fabricating cases and other components from their own designs, and selling watches off a reservation system. Interested parties add their names to a list, and when a watch is available, you get an email letting you know your watch is ready.  Their new watch, introduced this week, is called the Timepod, and like the Mytilus before it, the case (and crystal integration) set the design apart and make it unique. The quirkiest thing about the Timepod is the lug release system, which allows the user to detach the wire lugs via the push of a button on the caseband. The lugs simply pop out of the square shaped case and (presumably) reattach easily by hand. E.C. Andersson says the system is specifically designed to inhibit debris from entering the case while still allowing ease of access to the movement and other components in the event a service is needed.  Is this lug ...

The Business of Watches Podcast: Hublot Chief Executive Officer Julien Tornare On Partnering With Jeff Koons And Re-Connecting With The Brand's Founder Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Sep 16, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Hublot Chief Executive Officer Julien Tornare On Partnering With Jeff Koons And Re-Connecting With The Brand's Founder

This week on The Business of Watches, a veteran watch industry CEO who is taking on one of the biggest and most demanding challenges of his storied career. Julien Tornare is the head of Hublot, the irreverent and ground-breaking brand controlled by LVMH that's trying to reclaim some of its former glory and role as a trend-setter in industry innovation.  An affable and talented business leader, Tornare has spent almost three decades in the watch world with Vacheron Constantin and Richemont, then as chief executive of Zenith, where he oversaw a dramatic revival and upswing for the El Primero maker. He then had a brief tenure as the CEO of TAG Heuer before joining Hublot as the big boss in 2024.  Julien Tornare.Image: Courtesy Hublot Tornare talks about Hublot's turbulent journey over the past four decades and the spirit reflected in the brand's unconventional, outspoken ambassadors. He also addresses the marque's critics, arguing that the YouTuber shots are largely unjustified.  He also discusses the influence of Hublot's Italian founder Carlo Crocco as the company reconsiders its legacy ahead of its 50th anniversary in 2030. There's also news of a major new partnership with legendary American artist Jeff Koons, who is bringing his artistic vision to the watch brand for the first time through a series of bold collaborations. We also discuss the role that Jean Arnault, long considered the true watch enthusiast in the Arnault clan, now has with the brand.  There's plenty o...