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Wiki · Guide
El Primero Zenith

Zenith's 1969 column-wheel automatic chronograph caliber at 36,000 vph, saved from quartz-era destruction by Charles Vermot in 1975 and supplied to the Rolex Daytona ref. 16520 (1988-2000).

Wiki · Guide
LVMH Watches

TAG Heuer (1999), Zenith (1999), Hublot (2008), Bulgari (2011), plus Louis Vuitton in-house and Tiffany & Co. Bernard Arnault\'s Paris-based group.

Gallery · Guide
Zenith Gallery Zenith

Wristshot gallery from the Horlogeforum Zenith thread.

Icon · Guide
El Primero Zenith

The 1969 36,000 vph automatic chronograph saved from the quartz crisis by Charles Vermot.

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster El Primero Radar SJX Watches
Bulgari all companies Oct 7, 2019

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster El Primero Radar

Having been one of the first brands to work with watch customiser Bamford Watch Department, Zenith has one gone one further with the Chronomaster El Primero Radar. Featuring a striking aesthetic reminiscent of the 1970s, it was designed by Bamford for Zenith, and will only be available at the watchmaker’s boutiques. In short, it is an official boutique edition designed by a former aftermarket customiser. Bamford Watch Department was founded by George Bamford, an entrepreneur who made a name for himself selling customised watches and clothing, but who also happens to be the son of a construction equipment tycoon. His watch division made its name customising Rolex watches, but has now become the official customiser for Zenith, TAG Heuer, and Bulgari, all companies of luxury conglomerate LVMH. According to Zenith, the red and brown livery of Chronomaster El Primero Radar was inspired by a 1916 pocket watch Mr Bamford spotted during a visit to Zenith’s factory in Le Locle. Mr Bamford used that to create the “retro-futuristic aesthetic” of the El Primero Radar. The dial is a graduated brown, while the sub-dial at three has five hashmarks that are the “negative of the [Zenith logo of a] star”, according to Mr Bamford. Dial aside the watch is identical to the standard Chronomaster El Primero, with a 42mm steel case that contains the El Primero 400 B movement.   Key facts and price Chronomaster El Primero Radar (ref. 03.2082.400/02.R830) Diameter: 42mm Heigh...

White light - the Zenith Defy Classic in white ceramic Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Classic Oct 1, 2019

White light - the Zenith Defy Classic in white ceramic

Editor’s note: Who knew that a fully white ceramic open-worked watch would be one of this year’s freshest looks? No one, that’s who. But that’s OK, a surprise hit wouldn’t be a surprise if everyone saw it coming. Which is somewhat ironic as everyone will see you coming if you’re rocking this bad girl on … ContinuedThe post White light – the Zenith Defy Classic in white ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Introduces the El Primero A386 “One-Off” in Platinum SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Oct 1, 2019

Zenith Introduces the El Primero A386 “One-Off” in Platinum

With this year being the 50th anniversary of its defining movement, Zenith has unveiled several limited editions to mark the occasion, including a three-piece set and a remake of the El Primero A386 in 18k gold. Now the ultimate anniversary watch has just been announced: the one-of-a-kind El Primero A386 in platinum with a lapis lazuli dial, and a 50-year warranty. This one-off watch – it’s marked as such on the case back – was designed in collaboration with Phillips, the auctioneer led by Livia Russo and Aurel Bacs. And the watch will be sold by Phillips in November, with all proceeds going to a Swiss charity that helps children with cancer. It’s the first ever El Primero in platinum, and also the first with a lapis lazuli dial. Commenting in the announcement, Zenith chief executive Julien Tornare states unequivocally: “This will be the first and sole El Primero in platinum.” Materials aside, the rest of the watch is identical to the standard A386 remake. The case is 38mm, fitted with sapphire crystals front and back, while the movement is the El Primero 400. Key facts Diameter: 38mm Material: Platinum Water resistance: 50m Dial: Lapis lazuli Movement: El Primero 400 Functions: Time, chronograph, date Frequency: 36,000bph, or 5Hz Winding: Automatic Power reserve: 50 hours Strap: Blue calfskin Price and availability The Zenith El Primero A386 in platinum will be sold at the Geneva Watch Auction: X that takes place on November 9-10, 2019. It has n...

The Mysterious Rolex Daytona Zenith “Luna Rossa” at Sotheby’s SJX Watches
Zenith Luna Rossa” Sep 23, 2019

The Mysterious Rolex Daytona Zenith “Luna Rossa” at Sotheby’s

The most talked-about watch at Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches auction in Hong Kong is lot 2300, a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona powered by a Zenith El Primero movement that’s described as “a possibly unique… chronograph wristwatch with a red dial”. And as with all high-profile watches, the auctioneers have given the watch an Italian nickname, “Luna Rossa”, which translates as “red moon”. The reason the “Luna Rossa” is controversial is because such a red dial has never ever been seen before. Usually unicorns are known and whispered about, even if seldom seen, but the “Luna Rossa” has surprised everyone. Experts and insiders I approached have neither encountered nor heard of such a dial, which makes it quite a revelation. But they all agree it is correct – in the sense that all elements are identical to known Rolex dials of the period – though of unknown origin. Sotheby’s itself hasn’t provided much background about the watch, either officially or unofficially. Unlike the unique platinum Daytona “Zenith” that Sotheby’s sold last year, setting a record price for a modern Daytona, which had a backstory that was I managed to uncover, the “Luna Rossa” remains a mystery. The dial is glossy red lacquer, with gold indices and sub-dials When such unusual dials emerge, the immediate question is one of authenticity. The “Luna Rossa” passes the test – the dial is correct in its details. The element usually regarded as crucia...

Zenith takes on GPHG 2019 with 5 seriously hot watches Time+Tide
Zenith takes Sep 20, 2019

Zenith takes on GPHG 2019 with 5 seriously hot watches

It isn’t hard to imagine that Zenith is probably feeling pretty darn confident about being given more than one award at this year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. Not least for the fact that five of the Swiss marque’s timepieces have been given the nod by the prestigious event’s judges across no fewer than five … ContinuedThe post Zenith takes on GPHG 2019 with 5 seriously hot watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Phillips Debuts ‘Perpetual’ Boutique in London SJX Watches
Zenith Daytonas are well Sep 1, 2019

Phillips Debuts ‘Perpetual’ Boutique in London

Best known as a watch auctioneer par excellence, Phillips recently established Perpetual, a watch store inside its London showroom on Berkeley Square. A permanent showroom offering watches year-round, Perpetual was conceived to offer clients something to buy in-between the twice-yearly watch auctions. Perpetual comes a few months after the successful pop-up store that took place in March, where a Philippe Dufour Simplicity was purchased by Jean-Claude Biver, the legendary watch entrepreneur who’s now the non-executive chairman of the LVMH watch division. The watch department in London, led by financier-turned-watch-specialist James Marks, is the first outpost of Phillips to have a permanent store. “I believe that auction houses cannot apply the same business model to every geographical location,” explains Mr Marks, “and rather than rely on traditional seasons we need to be proactive with clients year round.” Perpetual officially opens on Wednesday, September 4, with a cocktail party and panel discussion. The panel is made of two industry luminaries – Mr Biver and Phillips’ auction chief Aurel Bacs – and myself. To RSVP for the panel discussion, register online with Phillips. The highlights The inaugural offering at Perpetual is diverse, encompassing both vintage and modern watches. Being a personal favourite of Mr Marks, Rolex “Zenith” Daytonas are well represented, but the line-up also includes a selection of choice examples of independent watchm...

Bronze brigade - the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback Chronograph Time+Tide
Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback Chronograph Aug 27, 2019

Bronze brigade - the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback Chronograph

Editor’s note: It’s 2019 and bronze is here to stay. And I’ve got to say that, as far as trends go, this is one I can very much get behind. And while the combination of bronze case, heritage style and gradient dial is more common today than in the past, the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback … ContinuedThe post Bronze brigade – the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Zenith Defy El Primero Double Tourbillon SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Aug 15, 2019

Hands-On: Zenith Defy El Primero Double Tourbillon

When Zenith unveiled the El Primero Defy 21 two years ago, it was a breakthrough for the brand, offering a 1/100th of a second chronograph with twin regulators for an affordable US$10,000 or so. This year the brand has kicked things up a notch with the El Primero Defy Double tourbillon, which essentially replaces the regular escapements with two tourbillons – one conventional and the other ultra-fast. The high-frequency evolution The new double tourbillon chronograph is a logical evolution of the classic El Primero – albeit accomplished with some help from TAG Heuer – that remained unchanged for decades. Unveiled 50 years ago, the El Primero was the first integrated automatic chronograph, and crucially, the first serially-produced, high-frequency chronograph running at 36,000 beats per hour (bph), allowing it to measure time down to the nearest tenth of a second. It would take 48 years for it to evolve into its first major iteration, the El Primero Defy 21 of 2017, which took the high-precision chronograph to its extreme with a monstrously high frequency of 50Hz, capable of measuring time down to a hundredth of a second. The Defy El Primero 21 launched in 2017 – an exotic chronograph for a basic price While it is true that a higher frequency regulator results in a higher resolution chronograph, it comes at a cost. An ultra-high frequency escapement requires tremendous energy, and the friction generated by the rapid motion of its components in turn mean more f...

HANDS-ON: The defiant one - Zenith’s El Primero Defy 21 Carbon Time+Tide
Zenith s El Primero Defy Aug 7, 2019

HANDS-ON: The defiant one - Zenith’s El Primero Defy 21 Carbon

In the early years of the 21st century, Zenith was a brand that looked to the past - honouring their iconic El Primero in its original guise, and taking flights of nostalgic fancy with its Pilot’s collection. All fine watches, but comfortable takes on familiar forms. In 2017, the brand abruptly changed direction, with a … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The defiant one – Zenith’s El Primero Defy 21 Carbon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Events: Zenith “A Star Through Time” Exhibition in Singapore SJX Watches
Zenith A Star Through Time” Aug 5, 2019

Events: Zenith “A Star Through Time” Exhibition in Singapore

Created to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the automatic chronograph movement that’s synonymous with Zenith, A Star Through Time embarks on world tour that starts in August, with the first stop being Singapore. Happening during the exhibition is a panel discussion that includes our founder, Su Jiaxian, as well as several watchmaking classes – details on how to attend are at the bottom. The exhibition The key attraction of A Star Through Time is an interactive, virtual tour of Zenith’s manufacture in Le Locle. It’s modelled on Le Monde Étoilé de Zenith, a collaboration between the watchmaker and Neuchâtel’s local tourism authority. Conceived to boost knowledge of watchmaking in the area, the project created a interactive, 360° experience that allows guests to go behind-the-scenes at the manufacture. Walking through the exhibition is akin to a stroll through a scaled down version of the Le Locle manufacture, including a virtual visit to the famous attic where, during the Quartz Crisis, watchmaker Charles Vermot hid the tools and plans to produce the El Primero, keeping them out of the hands of American managers who wanted to eliminate production of mechanical watches. The 400m2 exhibition also traces the evolution of the El Primero, illustrated by significant El Primero-powered watches, including the landmark early examples like the A386 in steel and G381 in 18k gold. Though dedicated to the El Primero, arguably the first ever sel...

RECOMMENDED READING: Why Seiko won’t be producing a 50th anniversary chronograph Time+Tide
Zenith Heuer et al or Jul 20, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Why Seiko won’t be producing a 50th anniversary chronograph

Fifty years ago, the automatic chronograph was born. Depending on which press release, it was the effort of either Zenith, Heuer (et al) or Seiko. The truth lies somewhere in the middle, and the former two brands have been busy celebrating in the traditional Swiss way (limited editions and, presumably, cheese). Seiko, though, has been … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why Seiko won’t be producing a 50th anniversary chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The history of the Zenith El Primero - 6 moments that defined one of the most important movements in watchmaking  Time+Tide
Zenith El Primero – 6 Jul 4, 2019

The history of the Zenith El Primero - 6 moments that defined one of the most important movements in watchmaking 

It’s hard to overstate the importance of the Zenith El Primero. The movement, an elegant, high-beat column-wheel chronograph, is impressive enough. It’s even more impressive when you factor in that this miniature engineering feat was the first automatic chronograph to be presented as a working prototype - after seven long years of development. Just as … ContinuedThe post The history of the Zenith El Primero – 6 moments that defined one of the most important movements in watchmaking  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Why the Zenith El Primero A384 Revival is one of the best reissues of 2019 Time+Tide
Zenith El Primero A384 Revival Jun 18, 2019

INTRODUCING: Why the Zenith El Primero A384 Revival is one of the best reissues of 2019

This year, Zenith is lucky enough to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the El Primero automatic chronograph, which is being marked with the release of the Zenith El Primero A384 Revival. This is a very cool watch for a number of reasons, but first, let’s look back a half century. The birth of the El … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Why the Zenith El Primero A384 Revival is one of the best reissues of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy El Primero 21 - not your average chronograph Time+Tide
Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Apr 15, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy El Primero 21 - not your average chronograph

The Defy is playing an increasingly important role in Zenith’s lineup - offering a modern alternative to the Pilot’s line that has dominated the discussion for so long. And there’s a lot to like about it - modern style with a hint of retro flavour. And while the Defy spans the spectrum from accessible to … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy El Primero 21 – not your average chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: A century of Zenith El Primero on offer in the A386 Revival 50th Anniversary gold models from Baselworld 2019 Time+Tide
Zenith El Primero Apr 8, 2019

VIDEO: A century of Zenith El Primero on offer in the A386 Revival 50th Anniversary gold models from Baselworld 2019

A century? Wait, isn’t the Zenith El Primero celebrating its 50th birthday this year? Yes, correct. However, in a surprise move, the brand is offering a 50-year warranty on these A386 Revival 50th Anniversary models in 18ct gold (white, yellow and red, all at the same price). Hence the 100 years - 50 years of goodness … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A century of Zenith El Primero on offer in the A386 Revival 50th Anniversary gold models from Baselworld 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.