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Results for Côtes de Genève

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Côtes de Genève

Parallel-striped decoration on bridges and rotors; the Swiss (or Glashütte) finishing marker.

Krayon’s Parhelion is a Halo Watch, Literally SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s sapphire-set Celestial Near-Artic Jul 17, 2026

Krayon’s Parhelion is a Halo Watch, Literally

Krayon, the independent that nearly perfected the sunrise and sunset complication for Anywhere and Everywhere on the planet, applies its no-half-measures approach to gem-setting with the Parhelion. Set with 171 sapphires in a gradient from dark blue to colourless, a dozen of which are a unique “Krayon cut”, the Parhelion is a halo product that seeks to recreate a magical moment the brand’s founders experienced in the arctic. Initial Thoughts Given my affinity for baguette set watches and astronomical complications, I don’t stand much of a chance against the Parhelion, a chilly, high jewellery version of the Anywhere. This isn’t Krayon’s first gemset watch, which would be the Everywhere, but is the best yet. I especially appreciate the creation of a novel fancy cut “Krayon-cut” which preserves the hour marker’s original form, something that is often lost in gem-set versions of originally non gem-set watches. Of course, this only worsens the Anywhere’s only fault – other than lack of summer time adjustment – pushing the Anywhere’s already high (if justifiable) price tag over the half-million dollar mark. That is a lot of money, but it is also a lot of watch, and still well below Patek Philippe’s sapphire-set Celestial. Near-Artic Encouter Caused by sunlight passing through hexagonal ice crystals in high-altitude clouds, parhelia (more commonly, sundogs) are a type of halo that mimics a second, and usually a third sun. The effect is most common, an...

Roger Dubuis Reimagines the Excalibur as Samurai Art SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Reimagines Jul 17, 2026

Roger Dubuis Reimagines the Excalibur as Samurai Art

The Roger Dubuis Excalibur “The Kabuto Legacy” transforms the brand’s monumental Excalibur case into a showcase for Japanese history and miniature craftsmanship. Thematically similar to the the Knights of the Round Table (KRT) collection, the samurai-inspired dial centres around a contemporary interpretation of an Edo-period castle with 12 individually hand-engraved pink gold kabuto, each based on the distinctive helmet of a historical warrior. Initial thoughts Watches like the Excalibur Kabuto are not ‘watches’ in the typical sense, and only make sense through an artistic lens. Collectors who spend a lot of time in the spec sheets will likely come away unimpressed, but with only 28 pieces being made, the Excalibur Kabuto represents a sub-segment of haute horlogerie that treats the watch case as a miniature art gallery. While some may be indifferent to the samurai motif, the quality of work — from the hand-engraved helmets on the dial to the laser-engraved precision of the crests in the rotor — is remarkable. Furthermore, the playful minimalism of the Edo castle, which from some angles looks like an enormous faceted sapphire, is an inspired work of miniature architecture. The case is identical to that of the KRT collection. It’s 45 mm and nearly 17 mm thick — height that accommodates a sapphire crystal ring underneath the bezel. This elaborate construction helps flood the miniature sculptures with light and provides a better look at the engraving work. In...

Introducing the Bremont Supernova Hawking Worn & Wound
Bremont Supernova Hawking Many watches Jul 16, 2026

Introducing the Bremont Supernova Hawking

Many watches have been named for athletes, explorers, and artists, mostly to boost an air of sportiness, robustness, or sophistication. Still, it’s hard to imagine a more appropriate arena for a wristwatch than the field science as a whole; British brand Bremont agrees, and to celebrate one of the most famous and culturally pervasive scientists of the past two centuries, they have created the Supernova Hawking Limited Edition, named for preeminent thinker, Professor Stephen Hawking.  Known more for their mil-spec pieces, Bremont may seem like a strange choice for such a namesake watch, but given their status as a British brand of repute, it makes sense that they’d want to showcase a fellow English pioneer. The base of the Hawking is the Supernova, first launched in April of this year, and boasting a 41mm ultra black DLC-treated steel case with multilayered construction. The geometric aesthetic of the case, pushers, and crown, reflect Hawking’s work in the space engineering field—most notably his groundbreaking research into black holes. Black watches have had a bit of a renaissance as of late, and wear well with almost any other color, so the choice here makes sense from a source-of-inspiration standpoint, as well as an aesthetic one.  A black decahedral ceramic bezel surrounds the dial, which in turn features an interlocking, galvanic black grid motif with triangular pathways, inspired by the design of solar arrays. Two meteorite subdials adorn the dial, at 3 an...

Nodus and Raven Collaborate on their Fourth TrailTrekker Worn & Wound
Nodus Jul 16, 2026

Nodus and Raven Collaborate on their Fourth TrailTrekker

Nodus and Raven have collaborated once again for their fourth edition of their popular TrailTrekker watch, a sporty GMT with EDC design codes. This new release is perhaps the most EDC oriented yet, with the prominent use of forged carbon fiber front and center on the dial and bezel, as well as lots of decorative lume. It also represents the first time a TrailTrekker has crossed the thousand dollar mark, but this one feels like it’s a step up in terms of its ambition, and seeing all four on the Nodus website side by side, it’s clear the two brands are building out a product line that can be taken in a number of different directions going forward.  The new TrailTrekker Carbon maintains certain core design elements that Nodus and Raven have always adhered to with these watches. The basic principle is relatively simple: it combines the Nodus Contrail’s sporty case profile with Raven’s dial design (most notably in their Trekker series) that prioritizes legibility and functionality above all else. Each TrailTrekker, including the new Carbon version, also makes use of the Miyota 9075 GMT movement, an easy to operate “true” GMT that is a genuinely great option for travel.  A huge part of the appeal of the original TrailTrekker was its unique bead blasted “Clay” colored case finishing. This new edition appears to have a similar vibe, with a gray DLC treatment over the steel case and bracelet that is just a shade or two lighter than solid black. Nodus and Raven hav...

Organic Second-Hand Horology: The Joys of Uncovering a Used Gem at a Local Shop or Sale Worn & Wound
Timex pieces found Jul 16, 2026

Organic Second-Hand Horology: The Joys of Uncovering a Used Gem at a Local Shop or Sale

Finding a watch at your local Goodwill or community rummage sale sparks a certain kind of euphoria in a watch collector that’s hard to capture from any other source or stimulus. My watch collecting journey started at a local flea market with two Timex pieces found in a basket of old silverware, buttons, and thimbles. At age twelve, I still can’t identify what made those watches stick out to me like sore thumbs––or why I decided to invest my hard-earned leftover $5 allowance money on them––but that feeling like I discovered a diamond in the rough is a high I continue to chase into the present day. Why does finding and purchasing a watch second-hand from a local sale or thrift store feel so incredibly rewarding? To support my theories with some examples, I invite you to take a trip down my own personal memory lane and look at some of the timepieces I’ve picked up at thrift stores, yard, garage, rummage, estate, and community sales throughout my years of collecting. For those keen-eyed readers out there, you may have noticed I skipped over a classic locale for second-hand goods: antique stores. I want to save that lengthy discussion for another day, as there is a far deeper discussion into the idea of price vs. value vs. availability that will take far longer than a side tangent to be included here. Putting antiques aside for another day, let’s discuss what makes a thrift find feel so valuable. The Thrifty State of Mind Everyone loves a good deal. Do I really ...

Introducing - The Bremont Supernova Hawking Limited Edition Monochrome
Bremont Supernova Hawking Limited Edition Jul 16, 2026

Introducing - The Bremont Supernova Hawking Limited Edition

The launch of the Supernova collection earlier this year marked a new direction for British brand Bremont, introducing a bold integrated sports chronograph inspired by spacecraft engineering and destined to become the first watch left permanently on the Moon. Still looking to the stars, Bremont presents the Supernova Hawking Limited Edition, which uses the Supernova […]

Introducing: The New Citizen Promaster Dive Hodinkee
Citizen Promaster Dive What We Jul 16, 2026

Introducing: The New Citizen Promaster Dive

What We Know It's summertime, which means it's perfect weather to spend some time near, in, or under the water. While I love a good hyper-overbuilt mechanical watch (and definitely want this one), I've come to realize that the best dive watches are probably the no-fuss, affordable ones. If I'm flying to the Bahamas and want to go on a quick dive, I'm going to grab a Citizen (oh wait, I did). With a bunch of new Citizen Eco-Drive divers (more like Eco-Dive, am I right?) rated to 200m, I figured it was time to share some great new picks. While four watches were just launched in Japan, the U.S. is getting three of them. There's a blue gradient dial with a dark blue stainless steel unidirectional bezel (my personal pick), a black dial with a black bezel, and a white dial with a black bezel and an orange seconds hand (and black printing, of course). That last one feels very James Stacey, if I had to guess. The watches are cased in a super-reasonable 40.6mm by 11.5mm stainless steel case with brushed surfaces and polished chamfers. Inside is the Eco-Drive Caliber E118, which has an accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month and 12 months of power on a full light-powered charge. The watches are delivered on BENEBiOL straps, a plant-derived biomass urethane. All three options will be available on the Citizen website in the coming days and weeks as deliveries arrive in their US stock. The retail price is $450, so keep checking their shop to make sure you stay on top of when it's availabl...

Catching Scarlet Fever With The New Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Red Fratello
Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Red Jul 16, 2026

Catching Scarlet Fever With The New Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Red

As a traditionalist, I’m not always attracted to modern Haute Horlogerie watches. However, I always have time for new releases from Armin Strom. The independent brand’s attention to detail and supreme movement prowess get my attention. Lately, there have even been smaller models that could fit my wrist if funds allowed. Today’s new Mirrored Force […] Visit Catching Scarlet Fever With The New Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Red to read the full article.

Introducing: Five New Orient Mako 40 Models With Gradient Dials Fratello
Orient Jul 16, 2026

Introducing: Five New Orient Mako 40 Models With Gradient Dials

Orient builds on its sporty Mako 40 line with five new compelling dial colors. The range introduces green, navy blue, brown, gray, and copper dégradé dials, each bringing a different personality to the collection. The last two are available only during the 2026 calendar year rather than being individually numbered limited editions. Brushed stainless steel […] Visit Introducing: Five New Orient Mako 40 Models With Gradient Dials to read the full article.

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” SJX Watches
Ming s Jul 16, 2026

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen”

A. Lange & Söhne’s flagship launch for the year, so far, is the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen”. It follows a familiar template, applying the desirable “Lumen” treatment to a complicated, top-of-the-line model. But unlike earlier Lumen editions, the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is more than a mere cosmetic makeover. The unique calendar display requires a more complex dial construction, and the movement has been reworked for visual impact. Even though the concept is predictable – and predictably pricey – the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” is unexpectedly appealing. Initial thoughts This is stating the obvious, but the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” is clearly the most appealing iteration of the most complicated Lange 1. Visually it is more striking in both light and darkness, with the new look also adding to the intricacy of the dial construction. And because Lange doesn’t do things in half measures when it comes to movements, the L225.1 inside this has been reworked by some margin to solve one of the shortcomings of the original model, a tourbillon that was barely visible. The original Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar was and still is the most complicated version of Lange’s iconic watch design. All perpetual calendar indicators were cleverly incorporated in the Lange 1’s distinctive yet sensible layout. Add to that a tourbillon visible only on the back meant there was a lot going on ins...

DOXA Introduces their Latest Clive Cussler Limited Edition Diver Worn & Wound
Doxa Introduces their Latest Clive Jul 15, 2026

DOXA Introduces their Latest Clive Cussler Limited Edition Diver

Having lived so far away from us, I have very few memories of my grandfather before his passing. Other than the fact that he was a regular at the local Legion in rural Indiana and liked having westerns on the TV, my memories are mostly sensory: the smell of tobacco, the first sip of beer he let me have when I was still a kid. I can only imagine he, too, considered me a stranger who just happened to share a last name and a few chromosomes here and there. Even still, every year, he would give me a Clive Cussler book. He knew I was a reader, but he was not. My guess is that, in some ways, he wanted me to read the books he would have read, to tell the stories he would have liked. He just never got around to it, I suppose. This is my first memory of Cussler’s books. And while I have read a few of them, mostly when I was younger as a sort of favor to my grandfather, I don’t remember many of the plots. I remember more of who Cussler was as a person: born in the Midwest between the wars, a veteran, and later an author and maritime explorer. My grandfather shared some of those same biographical details, but their lives diverged somewhere in adulthood. Cussler felt like a parallel version of the life my grandfather could have lived – had debt, circumstance, and the family farm not gotten in the way. I was reminded of all of this when DOXA released the new SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler, a limited edition introduced on what would have been Cussler’s 95th birthday. Cussler brought ...

Five New(ish) Watches I Liked at the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago Worn & Wound
Vulcain Cricket Titanium  There’s just Jul 15, 2026

Five New(ish) Watches I Liked at the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago

This year’s edition of the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago is in the books. As always, the Chicago show played host to a huge variety of brands that covered every imaginable genre of watch, price points up and down the spectrum, and truly offered something for every taste. And as is the case with every Windup these days, it was an opportunity for many brands to debut brand new watches for an audience hungry for something special. There was no shortage of limited edition releases and entirely new watches timed for unveiling at Windup this year, as well as a bunch that launched recently and were getting their first public look.  This list is by no means exhaustive, but here are five watches I saw at Windup in Chicago over the weekend that are either brand new or almost new that really stood out to me. Let me know in the comments what I may have missed – even with three days to wander around, I’m sure there are watches I simply didn’t get a chance to see.  Vulcain Cricket Titanium  There’s just something so charming about the Vulcain Cricket. Alarm watches are an anachronistic niche within an already anachronistic hobby. Setting a mechanical alarm on your watch when simply saying the words “Siri, set an alarm for…” feels like an act of rebellion in the digital age. I’m not sure how many owners of modern (or vintage) Crickets actually use the alarm function for practical purposes (it’s one of the great parlor tricks at a watch meetup, of course) but knowing...

First Look - The New Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Red Monochrome
Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Red Jul 15, 2026

First Look - The New Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Red

Since its streamlined redesign in 2022, the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance has become the independent watchmaking brand‘s signature expression of one of the rarest mechanical phenomena in watchmaking. Without altering the movement, later editions have offered variations in colour and materials used, from the Manufacture Green and Ice Blue models to the warm rose gold […]

The Business of Watches Podcast: Guido Terreni (Chief Executive Officer, Parmigiani Fleurier) Hodinkee
Parmigiani Fleurier Jul 15, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Guido Terreni (Chief Executive Officer, Parmigiani Fleurier)

This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the leader behind one of the strongest turnaround stories in the industry in recent years. Guido Terreni joined Parmigiani Fleurier as CEO in January 2021 from Bulgari and has overseen a dramatic transformation in the design, style, and fortunes of the brand founded by master watchmaker and restoration expert Michel Parmigiani in 1996, with backing from the Sandoz Family Foundation. Under Terreni's guidance, Parmigian Fleurier has been transformed. Striving to convey the concept of "private luxury," the brand has released a series of surprising, elegant, technically innovative, and yet restrained timepieces under its Tonda PF and Toric model lines.  The brand has done nothing less than reimagine and reinterpret classic complications, including the GMT and, most recently, the Tonda PF Chronograph Mysteriéux, which stole the show, for many, at this year's Watches and Wonders.  In a wide-ranging conversation, Terreni unveils the philosophy behind the brand's discreet aesthetic and the structure behind its manufacture and organization. We discuss retail, production, and design concepts aimed at taking Parmigiani Fleurier to the next level in the hyper-competitive luxury space.   There's plenty of watch business and strategy to discuss, and we hope you enjoy the conversation. Be sure to leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an epis...

Introducing - The new Bell & Ross BR-03 GMT Green Lum Monochrome
Bell & Ross BR-03 GMT Green Lum Jul 15, 2026

Introducing - The new Bell & Ross BR-03 GMT Green Lum

Known mostly for its military-inspired and pilot’s watches from the BR-01 and BR-03 series, the emblematic circle-within-a-square design, Bell & Ross has long mastered the use of luminescent materials, either to amplify functionality or to create striking models. All marketed under the Lum series, this ample use of Super-LumiNova has become a signature and is […]

The March LA.B AM2 XS Series Cracks Every Dress Code With Ease Fratello
Jul 15, 2026

The March LA.B AM2 XS Series Cracks Every Dress Code With Ease

One thing that makes a watch series interesting to me is variety. I love it when a series can transform like a chameleon without losing its recognizability. The March LA.B AM2 collection does exactly that. The watches’ shapes and details make them instantly recognizable. Even though the brand has introduced a string of different versions, […] Visit The March LA.B AM2 XS Series Cracks Every Dress Code With Ease to read the full article.

Retrospective: My One-Of-One Pragotron × UDC Porsche 911 SC Coffee Timer Fratello
Jul 15, 2026

Retrospective: My One-Of-One Pragotron × UDC Porsche 911 SC Coffee Timer

It has been almost a year since my last article, so no pressure at all! “It has to be an epic comeback,” I told myself as one month flew into another. There were many watch candidates with unusual stories, but getting back to writing became harder and harder each week. As it usually goes, that […] Visit Retrospective: My One-Of-One Pragotron × UDC Porsche 911 SC Coffee Timer to read the full article.

Insight: Bidirectional versus Unidirectional Winding SJX Watches
Jul 15, 2026

Insight: Bidirectional versus Unidirectional Winding

One of the quieter debates still ongoing in the horological world revolves around the difference in winding efficiency between unidirectional and bidirectional winding mechanisms. There are two schools of thought on the subject: some watchmakers remain convinced that a bidirectional winding mechanism is the clear winner in terms of efficiency, while a second group claims there are no real performance gains over simpler unidirectional winding mechanisms. Harvesting energy The basic idea behind automatic watches is to harvest energy from the wearer’s natural arm movements to wind the mainspring. The rotor is an unbalanced mass (its axis of rotation doesn’t coincide with its center of mass) that is subject to both gravity and the inertial forces exerted by the wearer. As the watch moves through different positions, the rotor spins in unpredictable bursts, generating substantial kinetic energy. A winding mechanism then turns the fast revolutions of the rotor into slower but more torque-heavy turns that wind the mainspring. Common transmission ratios cited by horological textbooks range between 1:110 and 1:180 — meaning that the barrel click wheel only makes one turn for every 110 to 180 turns of the rotor. In short, the winding mechanism transforms the erratic kinetic energy of the rotor into potential elastic energy, stored inside the mainspring’s coils. A short history Much like any sub-genre of horology, the history of automatic winding is lengthy and nuanced. This ...

Swatch Asks the Importance Questions: Introducing the What If…Jelly? Collection Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Jul 14, 2026

Swatch Asks the Importance Questions: Introducing the What If…Jelly? Collection

This was supposed to be the summer of the Royal Pop. Still the biggest cultural moment for watches of the year, the Royal Pop launch did not exactly go as anyone anticipated, and it created perhaps the wrong kind of crossover moment for all involved. I’ve come to think that the product itself, a colorful pocket watch sharing a silhouette with the Royal Oak, is a lot of fun and a genuinely good and smart idea, but the rollout was so epically poor it will take a long time for the sour taste in all of our mouths to be washed away.  I’m not quite sure what the current availability of Royal Pops actually is in the various Swatch boutiques that are designated to sell them. I’ve seen exactly one in the wild, at Windup Chicago over the weekend, worn on the wrist of an attendee on an aftermarket strap of some kind. It’s safe to say, though, that it has not yet caught on as a Labubu-like sensation the way that Audemars Piguet and Swatch likely hoped that it would.  So, like Swatch themselves, I’m forced to ask “What if…?” What if the Royal Pop had been earmarked for a summer 2027 release instead, and that this year’s big launch was actually the one that came across the transom last week? The new “What If…Jelly?” is one of my favorite types of Swatch releases: those that remind us that what the brand does best are not the intra-group collabs like the MoonSwatch or big hype pieces like the Royal Pop, but the colorful, purely original designs that could only b...

Hands-On: The Panerai Luminor 8 Giorni 'Brunito Steel' Hodinkee
Panerai Luminor 8 Giorni Brunito Jul 14, 2026

Hands-On: The Panerai Luminor 8 Giorni 'Brunito Steel'

It has been a long time since a Panerai has made it onto the list of my favorite watches from a Watches and Wonders showing, but there's one particular model that many of my other colleagues and I have continued to talk about since we first got a glimpse of it in April. I'm talking about the Luminor 8 Giorni, reference PAM01733, in a uniquely finished steel case that Panerai is calling "Brunito steel." Put crudely, this Brunito steel case feels like the distressed-jeans equivalent of the Luminor collection. The large 44mm steel case gets a layer of black PVD treatment, but the final effect is then accomplished through a brushing process by hand. The tendency of black PVD coatings to eventually wear out is an advantage here, as the different monochromatic hues ranging between the bright silver of the base steel and the dark black PVD coating now give the case a look of distressed metal aged over time. The finishing is throughout the entire case, from the inside of the lugs to the caseback and the distinctive crown guard that has become an iconic design element of the Luminor silhouette. Yes, even the strap buckle achieves the same treatment.  The handwork also means that each watch is unique, with subtle differences in brushing and fading. I've only seen one in person, so I can't tell you just how different one might be from the next. Though the main draw to this model is the aesthetic, this Luminor's dive watch heritage is not just for show, as it maintains a proper 300-m...

Watch Spotting: The Wild Watches Of World Cup 2026 Hodinkee
Patek Philippe 5905R Getty Images Unsurprisingly Jul 14, 2026

Watch Spotting: The Wild Watches Of World Cup 2026

Watch Spotting sports is hard. Unless you're trawling through Instagram accounts and wire photo feeds looking, you're not going to see a lot of watches at the World Cup. FIFA rules prohibit jewelry on the field during play. But then again, any footballer worth their salt has tens of millions of Instagram followers, so it's easier to see what they're wearing during the tournament. Erling Haaland of Norway, a Breitling ambassador, of course, was wearing his Chronomat B01 Erling Haaland Limited Edition. Getty Images. Like tens of millions of others, I've been drawn in by the World Cup. It's been massively exciting, especially this year. And through it all, yes, I've been glancing at the wrists. My first Watch Spotting during the World Cup came while watching the match between Türkiye and the US at a small-town bar in Wisconsin (where it just so happened that a lot of the bar staff were from Türkiye, so shout out to Bayside in Fish Creek and the team, Omer, Ruki, and the rest). But the first thing I noticed was that the Turkish team's Italian manager, Vincenzo Montella, was wearing a Patek 5905R. After cruising Getty, I also saw that, like any good Italian, he owns a Nautilus and a Daytona. So down the rabbit hole I went. Türkiye's manager, Vincenzo Montella, flashing his Patek Philippe 5905R. Getty Images. Unsurprisingly, the teams that have stuck around the longest give us the most chances to see some different watches. There's Kylian Mbappé, a Hublot ambassador, whose l...