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Eric Giroud

Architect-trained Geneva designer behind MB&F\'s entire HM and LM series, plus Bovet, Manufacture Royale, Greubel Forsey commissions.

James’ 2019 $20K fantasy watch collection Time+Tide
Rolex price hike Jan 15, 2020

James’ 2019 $20K fantasy watch collection

It is with a palpable sense of frustration that I must start my 2019 $20K fantasy watch collection with a pretty serious caveat - I had started writing this list before the now infamous Rolex price hike of 2020. As a result, I will be utilising the Big Crown’s 2019 prices so as to keep within … ContinuedThe post James’ 2019 $20K fantasy watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Do you need a Dan Henry in your collection? Time+Tide
Jan 15, 2020

Do you need a Dan Henry in your collection?

A lot of things have been said about Dan Henry timepieces – both good and bad. But to understand the watchmaker, we first need to understand the man behind the brand. Dan Henry may well be one of the most prolific vintage watch collectors on the planet, and his personal hoard of timepieces stretches well … ContinuedThe post Do you need a Dan Henry in your collection? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Introduces the Elite Classic and Elite Moonphase SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jan 14, 2020

Zenith Introduces the Elite Classic and Elite Moonphase

While the El Primero and the Defy have been a major focus for the brand over the past year, Zenith has just revealed a total revamp of its most classical collection – the Elite. The facelifted models are the Elite Classic and Elite Moonphase, both offered in a smaller 36 mm size with a diamond-set bezel for ladies, and the larger 40.5 mm – both in either steel or rose gold. The remake of the Elite was thorough, encompassing both the case and dial. The redesigned case features a slim, polished bezel with tapered lugs that have a brushed top surface and bevelled edge for contrast and a more refined feel. The Elite Classic But the most visible change, however, are the dials, which have a stamped, radial pattern framed by a railway minute track, coupled with applied numerals. On the rose gold model, the result is reminiscent of the Rolex Cellini Moonphase. Overall, the new details improve the look and feel of the Elite significantly, lending it much more finesse and character. And while the original Elite had leaf-shaped hands and hour markers, the new model features dauphine hands paired with faceted markers, giving the watch a sleeker, more modern look. Visible through a sapphire case back, both sizes of the Elite Classic are powered by the ultra-thin Elite 670 automatic, which runs at 4 Hz and has a 48-hour power reserve. Slightly more complex, the Elite Moonphase has a small seconds at nine o’clock as well as a moon phase at six with a moon plated in gold or rhodiu...

Zenith Introduces the Pilot Type 20 Rescue SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jan 14, 2020

Zenith Introduces the Pilot Type 20 Rescue

Inspired by early 20th century aviator’s watches, Zenith’s Pilot Type 20 collection gets new two versions at LVMH Watch Week. Available mostly in heavily retro guises, including in bronze or aged steel, the new pilot watches take a different tack. The Pilot Type 20 Rescue and Type 20 Rescue Chronograph are devoid of retro affectations, and are kept simple with steel cases and dark grey dials. Measuring 45 mm wide, both watches feature a brushed case band with a polished bezel as well as a polished, onion-shaped crown. Instead of the usual grained dials, they have slate-grey, sun ray-brushed dials that are accented with bolts of yellow, giving them a more modern look. As with the rest of the collection, the dials are characterised by cathedral-style hands and large applied Gothic numerals that are moulded from SuperLuminova. Powering the Pilot Type 20 Rescue is the Elite 679, an in-house, workhorse automatic movement with a 50 hour-power reserve, while the Pilot Type 20 Rescue Chronograph is equipped with the El Primero 4069, which is a variant of the El Primero 400 that lacks a date and an hour totaliser. The only element that’s “faux” patina is the distressed calfskin leather strap that was inspired by shearling flight jackets and helmets. Key facts and price Pilot Type 20 Rescue Ref. 03.2434.679/20.I010 Case diameter: 45mm Material: Stainless steel Water resistance: 100m Movement: Elite 679 Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds Frequency: 28,800 beats p...

The Zenith DEFY Midnight is a (very) early contender for women’s collection of the year Time+Tide
Zenith DEFY Midnight Jan 13, 2020

The Zenith DEFY Midnight is a (very) early contender for women’s collection of the year

The standout from the new Zenith 2020 novelties is hands down the DEFY Midnight collection. What immediately caught my attention was that Zenith were leading their 2020 new releases with a women’s collection that appeared - in the preamble - to not only be a new product in itself, with various attributes, but for those attributes to … ContinuedThe post The Zenith DEFY Midnight is a (very) early contender for women’s collection of the year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

OPINION: Diamonds are a man’s best friend Time+Tide
Jan 13, 2020

OPINION: Diamonds are a man’s best friend

Up until a month ago, if you’d asked me whether or not it was appropriate for a man to have diamonds adorning his timepiece, my response would’ve gone something like, “Only if he’s a vapid member of the glitterati, or his vocation is spitting bars”. Bedazzled, iced-out, frosty … whatever you want to call a … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Diamonds are a man’s best friend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bulgari Introduces the Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon SJX Watches
Bulgari Introduces Jan 13, 2020

Bulgari Introduces the Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon

The flagship launch for Bulgari at LVMH Watch Week is a compact tourbillon for ladies that’s technically interesting because it is powered by a newly-developed form movement. The Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon is a moderately large ladies’ watch, with a case measuring 34 mm in diameter and a slim 8.9 mm high. Because it is a Serpenti – which is Italian for “serpent” – the case is shaped like a snake’s head, giving it an ovoid form that has quite a presence on the wrist. Available in white gold or rose gold, the case is set with diamonds, as is the dial (and there’s also a version in white gold with a matching bracelet, set in diamonds from end to end). Inside is the BVL150, a hand-wound movement constructed specifically for this watch. It’s a small movement, measuring 22 mm at its longest and 3.65 mm high, but still manages to accommodate a tourbillon and a 40-hour power reserve. More notably, the movement is a form movement; its shape traces the case, with the tourbillon taking centre stage at six o’clock. Unusually, the tourbillon looks like a flying tourbillon, but is a conventional tourbillon secured by a bridge. But the bridge is a piece of clear sapphire, with the pivot jewel in its centre, making it almost invisible. Another unconventional feature is the crown, which is positioned just between two and three o’clock – inclined at six degrees from the horizontal according to Bulgari – a necessity due to the compact size of the movement. Key fa...

Shaken and stirred: 3 Omegas that got everyone talking in 2019 Time+Tide
Omega s Jan 13, 2020

Shaken and stirred: 3 Omegas that got everyone talking in 2019

It may surprise many reading this, but two out of the three Omega watches that really got the collective horological community talking in 2019 weren’t limited editions. In fact, the one limited edition watch that really struck a chord with enthusiasts, the Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary, was just a gorgeous looking timepiece, regardless of … ContinuedThe post Shaken and stirred: 3 Omegas that got everyone talking in 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Weekend watch spotting with JR: featuring the Rose and the Crown Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay GMT Danny Jan 12, 2020

Weekend watch spotting with JR: featuring the Rose and the Crown

This weekend, I wore my Swatch Sistem51 Hodinkee Generation 1986 and went out in search of what other like-minded individuals had decided to attach to their wrist, and this is what I found out in the wild: Danny’s Tudor Black Bay GMT Danny has lusted after Rolex’s GMT-Master II Ref.126710BLRO ever since it was first … ContinuedThe post Weekend watch spotting with JR: featuring the Rose and the Crown appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Enabler: How to justify buying another watch (#8. The Punctuality Excuse) Time+Tide
Jan 10, 2020

The Enabler: How to justify buying another watch (#8. The Punctuality Excuse)

NOTE: We understand that you’ve found a new watch to add to your collection (congratulations!). But rationalising this fact – coupled with the fact that it’ll cost a bucket-load of cash – may not always sit well with the less horologically minded. That’s where we come in … Use The Enabler’s advanced levels of sophistry to validate … ContinuedThe post The Enabler: How to justify buying another watch (#8. The Punctuality Excuse) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Nick’s 2019 $20K fantasy watch collection Time+Tide
Jan 9, 2020

Nick’s 2019 $20K fantasy watch collection

Selecting the best watches of 2019 with an unlimited budget is one thing. But those of us who aren’t hip-hop stars or oil tycoons have to comply with the tiresome reality of financial constraints. Which leads us to the challenge of selecting a $20K Fantasy Watch Collection from 2019. Here’s my hit list that sneaks … ContinuedThe post Nick’s 2019 $20K fantasy watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Great ‘Grams: Sketching, Auction Hype and Seiko Mania Time+Tide
Seiko Mania Great ‘Grams Sketching Jan 9, 2020

Great ‘Grams: Sketching, Auction Hype and Seiko Mania

Great ‘Grams: Sketching, Auction Hype and Seiko Mania It’s the start of a new decade, and as we hit the Roaring ’20s, there’s no sign that anyone is spending any less time on Instagram - especially if they love watches. With that in mind, I thought I’d do my best to put all of the … ContinuedThe post Great ‘Grams: Sketching, Auction Hype and Seiko Mania appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

AP expert @horoloupe warns against writing off the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 First Jan 8, 2020

AP expert @horoloupe warns against writing off the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59

First of all, I think it is wonderful news for Audemars Piguet to have had such a strong run at GPHG and Only Watch, but to be completely honest, I expected it. The RD2 winning the Aiguille d’Or was no surprise to me as it is hands down one of the favourite watches in my … ContinuedThe post AP expert @horoloupe warns against writing off the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

An Omega fan responds to the release of the Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321 (and addresses the 20K elephant in the room) Time+Tide
Omega fan responds Jan 7, 2020

An Omega fan responds to the release of the Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321 (and addresses the 20K elephant in the room)

Putting on my Speedmaster Professional 50th anniversary this morning, I couldn’t help but reflect and smile on the huge announcement from Omega. The decade has just begun and Omega dropped a bombshell with the announcement of the Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321 in stainless steel.  By now, you would have read that this particular watch was … ContinuedThe post An Omega fan responds to the release of the Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321 (and addresses the 20K elephant in the room) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Introduces the Classique Dame 9065 Tahitian Mother-of-Pearl SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Jan 6, 2020

Breguet Introduces the Classique Dame 9065 Tahitian Mother-of-Pearl

Following the launch of the Classique 5177 in blue enamel last year, Breguet has now unveiled its feminine equivalent, the Classique Dame 9065. It’s dressed up in feminine style with a Tahitian black mother-of-pearl dial and brilliant-cut diamonds, but still bears Breguet’s trademark design with pomme hands and Breguet-style numerals. A limited edition of 28 pieces, the watch has a dainty rose-gold case measuring 33.5mm wide and just 7.55mm high thanks to the ultra-thin movement inside. The case is classical Breguet, featuring slim, straight lugs and a finely fluted case band. The bezel and lugs are set with 88 brilliant-cut diamonds, totalling approximately 0.606 carats, while the crown is set with a ruby. They frame a dial covered with a thin slice of black mother-of-pearl. Derived from black-lipped oysters found in and around Tahiti and the French Polynesian islands, Tahitian mother-of-pearl is prized for its naturally dark colour as well as its visual complexity. Apart from being much rarer than white mother-of-pearl, it also has vivid undertones accented with overtones of marine colours like violet and green. The dial features Breguet-style Arabic numerals printed on the mother of pearl, and classic Breguet hands with a slight – and unfortunately kitschy – twist: the seconds hand has a heart-shaped counterweight. To match the heart-shaped seconds and ruby cabochon, the date features a red disc printed with off-white numerals. Visible through the sapphire case...

Bid on this watch and help Australians fight our worst ever bushfire season Time+Tide
Jan 2, 2020

Bid on this watch and help Australians fight our worst ever bushfire season

Today is a first in our home state of Victoria. It is the first day ever that a state of disaster has been declared by our Premier, Daniel Andrews, ahead of an “unprecedented” fire threat over the coming days. I mentioned this in my Editor’s Letter. Since then, it’s gotten worse. In our state alone … ContinuedThe post Bid on this watch and help Australians fight our worst ever bushfire season appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: James Robinson’s favourite watch photos from 2019 Time+Tide
Dec 30, 2019

LIST: James Robinson’s favourite watch photos from 2019

It pains me so to admit this, but oftentimes a story is only as good as the photos that accompany it - especially when you’re writing about something as intricate and nuanced as watches. A good snap of a timepiece is not only the glorious icing on a particularly wordy cake, it actually assists us … ContinuedThe post LIST: James Robinson’s favourite watch photos from 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: Time+Tide photographer Jason’s favourite watch photos from 2019 Time+Tide
Dec 29, 2019

LIST: Time+Tide photographer Jason’s favourite watch photos from 2019

I asked Jason, Time+Tide’s resident photographer, if he could tell me his favourite watch photos from 2019 that he had captured, without quite realising the sheer scope of the work that he had done this year. I soon found out.  “Hey Jason, how many photos have you taken this year?” “How many have I edited, … ContinuedThe post LIST: Time+Tide photographer Jason’s favourite watch photos from 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Luke’s 5 favourite watches of 2019 Time+Tide
Dec 27, 2019

Luke’s 5 favourite watches of 2019

I’ve certainly had less turbulent years. In 2019, I quit a stable job, hurled myself into start-up life and lived with my in-laws for 10 months (!) before moving into a house that can euphemistically be described as “a renovator’s delight”. I changed a gazillion nappies and failed miserably to persuade my two sons - aged … ContinuedThe post Luke’s 5 favourite watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Gerontohorologyphobia: A Young Man’s Fear Of Being Seen Wearing An Old Man’s Watch Quill & Pad
Dec 26, 2019

Gerontohorologyphobia: A Young Man’s Fear Of Being Seen Wearing An Old Man’s Watch

Colin was wearing a steel watch with blue dial when the receptionist at the trading company he was working for, a chirpy lass straight out of the BBC’s 'Eastenders' soap opera, looked down disdainfully and said, “I hate watches with blue dials. They remind me of old men in pubs.” What happened after that can only be described as a case of gerontohorologyphobia: fear of inadvertently wearing an old man's watch.

Letter from the Editor: 2019 in Review Time+Tide
Dec 24, 2019

Letter from the Editor: 2019 in Review

I write on Christmas morning, in Melbourne, Australia from the kitchen table of my parents’ house. The children are watching the Stick Man Christmas Special on TV. The air outside is hazy and thick with bushfire smoke, slowly filtering down from the state above Victoria, New South Wales. There are currently 343 bushfires burning out … ContinuedThe post Letter from the Editor: 2019 in Review appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

XXXL: 3 of the biggest watches of 2019 Time+Tide
Dec 23, 2019

XXXL: 3 of the biggest watches of 2019

One of the biggest trends for timepieces of the last decade has been oversized case dimensions that stretch well into the 45mm plus category. And while the inclination for producing gargantuan wristwatches is starting to cool as tastes in the horological community change, this year has still spawned some absolute doozies for those that like … ContinuedThe post XXXL: 3 of the biggest watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.