Hodinkee
Happenings: Bernhard Lederer To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
The founder of Lederer Timepieces will discuss the history and evolution of the escapement.
Results for The Longitude Problem
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Hodinkee
Monochrome
First Look – The New Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm in Sage Green and Midnight Blue
Next year marks the 50th anniversary of the iconic Laureato, first introduced by Girard-Perregaux in 1975. Its distinctive design-centred around a tonneau-shaped case, slim, raised octagonal bezel with circular plinth, and integrated bracelet-has evolved over decades while remaining true to the original spirit, a tradition upheld by the latest releases. The two new time-only Laureato […]
Monochrome
Interview – What to Expect from Universal Genève when it Relaunches in 2026? Georges Kern Gives us all the Answers
About a year ago, Georges Kern, also known as the CEO of Breitling, made a resounding announcement for the watch community; the acquisition of historic brand Universal Genève and its planned return as a watchmaker in 2026. A brand known for its innovative designs and movements, benefitting from a certain aura in the collecting community, […]
Worn & Wound
The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: Why George Daniels’ Co-Axial Escapement Revolutionised Mechanical Watchmaking
Editor’s Note: Today, the final installment of The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time. Here, Andrew Canter examines the story behind the co-axial escapement, invented by George Daniels, industrialized by Omega, and now considered one of the great watchmaking innovations of all time. You can find more of Andrew’s work at the Mr. Watchmaster website here. George Daniels (1926 – 2011) was raised in London in poverty. Aged five, he pried open his family’s alarm clock and realised that it was a metaphor for his life – always moving inexorably onwards, but without outside assistance. He was determined to learn horology, despite his parents’ opposition. He was conscripted into military service in 1944 which unleashed his innate mechanical skills, and following the end of the war, he studied horology, while repairing watches in North London. He gained access to the work of the greatest watchmakers, particularly Abraham-Louis Breguet, through a meeting with a collector, and when it seemed that quartz technology would overwhelm traditional watchmaking, Daniels ensured this would not come to fruition. He made a series of increasingly ingenious mechanical watches, heavily influenced by Breguet, teaching himself to make every part, now referred to as the ‘Daniels Method’. Essentially, he devised a virtually oil-free escapement – the now iconic co-axial escapement – which was later mass-produced by Omega. It was anything but an easy journey, but George D...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Arty, Fresh Paulin Modul D Manual Comes Straight from Glasgow, Scotland
While many will be familiar with anOrdain, the young brand specialised in accessible yet highly appealing vitreous (grand feu) enamel dials in all possible colours of the spectrum, there’s another brand coming from Glasgow, Scotland that should be under your radar; Paulin Watches. And the two are closely related, being owned by the same individuals […]
Video
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional With White Lacquer Dial | A Week On The Wrist
Monochrome
Industry News – Opening of Applications for the Second Edition of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives
In late 2022, luxury powerhouse Louis Vuitton announced a rather surprising but promising concept, the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. A biennial prize organized by its Swiss-based watch manufacture, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, its mission is “to recognize a passion for watchmaking savoir-faire, creativity, and innovation in the pursuit of excellence, […]
Fratello
The November 2024 Geneva Auctions Retrospective - Highlights
Recent auctions in Geneva concluded with a relative bang. Eye-watering results occurred for some truly rare pieces. For many watches, though, the sales were solid but not awe-inspiring. I’ll kick off today’s article with my thoughts on the market, and then we’ll look at several lots. My colleague Lex recently penned an article about the […] Visit The November 2024 Geneva Auctions Retrospective - Highlights to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The most expensive Studio Underd0g ever at the last Pizza Party ever
We hosted the last ever pizza party last week, and in the process raised US$17,000 for charity thanks to the Pizza Unique auction.The post The most expensive Studio Underd0g ever at the last Pizza Party ever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
New Dials for the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto
Christopher Ward just released the C1 Bel Canto Classic, a new version of its best-selling hourstriker in four colours: silver, blue, green and gold. The Bel Canto Classic retains the familiar design of the original, but gains updated dial aesthetics with laser-etched guilloché, Roman numerals, and a domed “glassbox” sapphire crystal. Initial thoughts A hit at launch thanks to its affordability – and a well-timed debut while pandemic-induced demand was strong – the Bel Canto is now Christopher Ward’s best known model. The reason behind its success is obvious - the striking hour complication is rare and even rarer at an affordable price. Because of the price, the Bel Canto is executed simply and functionally. The base movement is an inexpensive Sellita SW200-1, while the striking module is clever and fairly basic in construction. But the module has been smartly constructed to expose much of the strikework, giving the watch a complex appearance. The hammer and wire gong visible above the dial plate, along with the main operating lever and a column wheel selector. The Bel Canto Classic is essentially an evolution of the original model, with the dial updates giving it a slightly more classical appearance. Priced at US$4,540 on a titanium bracelet, the Bel Canto Classic remains a good value proposition, like the original. Affordable chimes on the hour The Bel Canto Classic retains the same proportions, with the titanium case measuring 41 mm in diameter and 13.2 mm ...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Limited Edition Orient Bambino 38 Models
Japanese watchmaker Orient is one of those rare brands that produce in-house models at very affordable prices, rivalling and often beating Japanese juggernauts Seiko and Citizen with value propositions. The best-selling Bambino series is clearly very popular, particularly the recent 38mm collection. The latest two pieces don’t break the mould, but do introduce fresh dial […]
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The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph gets an Extreme Sport makeover
WatchAdvice
Spoiler Alert: The A.Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone Is Something Special!
As A. Lange & Söhne celebrate the 30th anniversary of the iconic Lange 1, we thought we’d join the party, and what better way to help celebrate than to take the Lange 1 Time Zone out and about? What We Love The asymmetrical dial Ease of legibility of 2 time zones The impeccable finishing all over the watch What We Don’t The date window with no 0 in front of 1 through 9 It is probably not an everyday watch for many people Like most world time watches, it doesn’t take into account daylight savings automatically Overall Score: 9 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 2024 has been a celebratory year for A. Lange & Söhne. The Saxony brand has celebrated two birthdays this year, the first being the 25th Anniversary of the Datograph, which was showcased at Watches & Wonders this year with the stunning Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen and the Datograph Up/Down, but the second, and maybe the most important was the 30th Anniversary of the Lange 1, the first modern watch the brand created after being brought back to life. RELATED READING: Happy 30th Birthday to A. Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1! So, it is safe to say that the Lange 1 is a special piece when it comes to A. Lange & Söhne, and when we interviewed A. Lange & Söhne’s Asia Pacific Managing Director, Nicolas Gong, a couple of months ago, he had this to say about the Lange 1, and I think he summed it up perfectly: “It’s the first watch that we launched...
Fratello
Introducing: A New Blue Outfit For The Awe-Inspiring Breguet Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077
Breguet introduced the Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077 back in 2015. The watch displayed awe-inspiring watchmaking inventiveness. How about two balance wheels, two gear trains, an arc-shaped minute totalizer, a power reserve indicator, and a mesmerizing open-worked look on both the front and back? What more could you ask for? Well, if I put on my […] Visit Introducing: A New Blue Outfit For The Awe-Inspiring Breguet Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The Watches We (the Worn & Wound Team) Don’t Wear
Earlier this month, Managing Editor Zach Kazan shared his thoughts on “Watches We Don’t Wear.” We thought this represented a good opportunity to get our staff and Worn & Wound contributors together to find out what watches are just kind of sitting in their own watch boxes, and why. Find those stories below, and let us know in the comments if you have a watch you don’t wear, but just can’t bring yourself to part with. Devin Pennypacker Did you know that you can order a pack of clear acrylic watch stands on Amazon for less than $15? Well, now you do. This year, I finally decided to do something with the pair of watches that paradoxically I will not wear and yet will never get rid of. Near and dear to my heart, these two watches spring from different eras of my watch enthusiasm and, of course, my preference for collecting. The first is a black-on-black Nixon Time Teller fitted with a rubberized genuine faux leather strap. Dead long ago, the blacked-out seconds hand sits idle which would typically bother me but for the fact that it is backdropped by black hands and a black dial making legibility all but impossible. It was never practical, but boy did I feel cool wearing it. Stemming from my angsty youth and fascination with action sports, I would frequently stop into my local skate shop to try on visually loud Nike SB Dunks, flip through the clothing racks of black hoodies and cargo pants, and of course, oggle the well-lit Nixon display case. So, when I got my ...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Unexpectedly Funky Breguet Classique Phase de Lune 7787 with Black Grand Feu Enamel Dial
Dress watches are typically slim, elegant, and minimalistic, designed to complement formal attire seamlessly. While their refined details and artistry are anything but boring, they are seldom described as playful. Now, the platinum Breguet Classique 7787 with its black Grand Feu enamel dial-a piece that is, say, different. Alongside its classic beauty, it exudes a […]
Worn & Wound
Ressence Introduces the Type 8 “Indigo”
When you think of Ressence, the first things that come to mind are likely the brand’s forward thinking, non traditional design language, and their completely unique mechanical solution for telling time via a series of rotating circles as opposed to traditional hands. You probably don’t think of traditional craft – given the hyper-modern aesthetic of the brand, most of their signature designs forego the tenets of classical watchmaking. There are exceptions to be found, of course, in the Ressence’s library of one-offs and limited editions, but classifying their approach, on the whole, as somewhat “industrial” isn’t too far off the mark. That’s what makes a watch like the Type 8 Indigo so interesting. It’s one of those exceptions, and in it we can see the many different things a Ressence watch can be. The Type 8 Indigo is Ressence’s contribution to the The Indigo Project, led by Shellman, the brand’s Tokyo based Japanese retail partner. The design of the dial incorporates a single indigo dyed silk thread, placed in a spiral pattern by a skilled artisan. Indigo dyeing is part of a craft tradition in Japan spanning centuries, and the watch is a tribute to both Japanese tradition and an impressive design object on its own. Because of the dye and the nature of the thread itself, a range of blue tones are visible on the dial. According to Ressence, the total length of the thread is 2.5 meters, and it measures just 0.2mm in diameter, which underscores the in...
Video
Definitive guide to finding the best sub $1000 watches
Fratello
Taking A Closer Look At The Yema Manufacture Morteau
During one of the last years at Basel, we met the folks from Yema at a nearby hotel. They showed us fantastic and faithful reissues from the brand’s heyday of the 1960s and ’70s. Since then, a lot has changed as there’s now the Yema Manufacture Morteau where three calibers are produced. Let’s look at […] Visit Taking A Closer Look At The Yema Manufacture Morteau to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Ressence Type 8 'Indigo' Limited Edition For Shellman Japan
A futuristic design meets delicate handcraft in this special edition for the renowned Japanese retailer.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Dennison ALD Collection
Watch history is often the story of unsung heroes. Zenith is commonly credited as the creator of the first automatic chronograph, while their collaborator Movado is often a footnote, if mentioned at all. The Omega Speedmaster, famously the first watch worn on the moon, gets most of the street cred when discussing out-of-this-world watches. However, any mention of the actual first watch worn in space, the Sturmanskie, is a deep cut rarely discussed. Mid-century watch cases tend to follow the same trend. While brands like Rolex, IWC and Zenith were busy becoming household names, the third party manufacturers making the cases of their renowned classics worked diligently in the shadows. One such case designer and manufacturer was Dennison, a brand you may never have heard of, but undoubtedly handled if you are a fan of vintage luxury Swiss watches. Founded in 1874 by Aaron Lufkin Dennison (who the ALD collection is named after), Dennison became a powerhouse of both design forward and spec focused watch cases. Their patented air and water tight cases could be found on the wrists of members of the British Military, housed the famous Smith dials that submitted Everest in 1953 and even accompanied Lt. Commander Lithgow when he broke the world air speed record. Dennison went dormant after the 1960’s and, like many other once-defunct brands that followed suit with the emergence of the quartz crisis, has risen from the ashes. Resurrection stories can be hit and miss, leading many e...
Time+Tide
The new Serica Parade offers a completely new look from the brand with more dressy tones
A new direction for Serica has the brand moving into dress watches with the Parisian brand's typical flair. The post The new Serica Parade offers a completely new look from the brand with more dressy tones appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
The Fratello Watch List - Nacho’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Breitling, Rolex, Omega, And Cartier
The thrill of the chase is often greater than that of the catch. It’s a simple cliche yet one that likely resonates with most watch collectors and enthusiasts. We’ve all been there, spending our evenings scrolling through listings of a very specific or purposefully ambiguous search, hoping to strike gold. As a result of these […] Visit The Fratello Watch List - Nacho’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Breitling, Rolex, Omega, And Cartier to read the full article.
Video
Watches & Wonders 2025: Bvlgari Presents The World's THINNEST Tourbillon Watch, and more.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Fiery Eska Amphibian 250 Red Viper
While a young brand in its current form, with only one model in two versions so far, Eska Watches has history and pedigree. Originally founded in 1918 in Granges, Switzerland, the brand made a name for itself during the golden era of dive watches with its Amphibian 600, a watch closely related to the Fifty […]
Time+Tide
The Hz Watches HZ.02 Chronograph worships quartz with staggering value for money
Minimal, elevated and unashamed of its meca-quartz movement, the HZ.02 Chronograph delivers on all possible aspects of value.The post The Hz Watches HZ.02 Chronograph worships quartz with staggering value for money appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Beautiful Blue Silk Dial of the Ressence Type 8 Indigo
Founded by Belgian industrial designer Benoît Mintiens in 2010, Ressence is renowned for its ingenious no-hands display of the time. Sleek, minimalist, futuristic watches with innovative mechanical solutions, Ressence tells the time with revolving sub-dials powered by the brand’s patented Orbital Convex System (ROCS). Like planets orbiting the Sun, the time indications circle the dial […]
Time+Tide
The Maurice Lacroix Aikon Ceramic makes the material more attainable and stronger
Sometimes it is just black and white.The post The Maurice Lacroix Aikon Ceramic makes the material more attainable and stronger appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
The Best Gift Ideas For Watch Enthusiasts - 2024 Edition
The holiday season is upon us, dear Fratelli, and what better time to spoil the watch enthusiast in your life? It has become a long-running tradition for the team to come together and bring you some of our favorite gift ideas for watch enthusiasts every holiday season, and 2024 is no different. Whether they’re seasoned […] Visit The Best Gift Ideas For Watch Enthusiasts - 2024 Edition to read the full article.
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