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Eric Giroud

Architect-trained Geneva designer behind MB&F\'s entire HM and LM series, plus Bovet, Manufacture Royale, Greubel Forsey commissions.

Can’t score that Nautilus or Pepsi? Here’s 6 watches you could buy instead Time+Tide
Rolex Jul 5, 2019

Can’t score that Nautilus or Pepsi? Here’s 6 watches you could buy instead

These are the conversations we all keep having lately. Much like our beloved Sandra Lane, I’m equally sick of the steel Rolex and Patek hype that refuses to die off (at least for now), and every time I hear of the obscene premium that people are still willing to pay for either the Nautilus 5711 … ContinuedThe post Can’t score that Nautilus or Pepsi? Here’s 6 watches you could buy instead appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Ceramic One “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Jul 1, 2019

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Ceramic One “Only Watch”

Continuing the tradition of one of a kind dive watches for Only Watch that started in 2015, Tudor has just unveiled the Black Bay Ceramic One. Entirely clad in matte black but composed of several different materials, the Black Bay Ceramic One is starkly different from any other Tudor dive watch. The 41mm case is made of ceramic, while the bezel is black-coated titanium fitted with a ceramic bezel insert. Both the case back and crown and black-coated steel, but the back is unusual – it’s the only Tudor watch with a display back aside from the little loved North Flag. The sapphire back reveals the MT5602 movement, a “manufacture” calibre with 70-hour power reserve and silicon hairspring. The dial is all-black to match, with the markings and text printed in glossy back to distinguish them from the matte black dial surface. The hands and hour markers are filled with black Super-Luminova, which will glow green in the dark, albeit dimly. And the strap is rubber, but lined on the top with matte black alligator, which is the same construction as the rubber-calf strap found on the recently launched Black Bay P01. The Black Bay Ceramic One (ref. M7921/001CN) has an estimate of 4,500-5,500 Swiss francs. If past Tudor watches made for Only Watch are anything to go by, it will blow right past the estimate straight out of the gate and probably finish just over 300,000 Swiss francs. It’ll be sold on November 9, 2019 at Christie’s in Geneva. Visit onlywatch.com for the ...

Introducing the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept Diver SJX Watches
Ming Jun 28, 2019

Introducing the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept Diver

Ming Watches has enjoyed a cult following since its debut in 2017, thanks to its affordable, smartly designed watches. Conceived by a band of watch collectors in Malaysia and then manufactured in Switzerland, Ming made its debut with the affordable 17 Series before going upmarket with the 19 Series that includes a world time. Now the brand debuts its first dive watch – a 10-piece limited edition that boasts a depth rating of 1,250m. The 18.01 Abyss Concept was born after Ming acquired a pressure testing machine and decided to create a dive watch in the brand’s distinctive design language. It is essentially an exercise in styling a larger Ming watch and also the response to a frequent request from clients wanting a sports watch. Concise design Ming’s unique styling was borne of the collecting experience of its six founders share and their desire not to repeat common designs. That is probably more difficult on a dive watch, since the standard ingredients of a diver are well defined. The same design elements that characterised the 17 and 19 Series watches – like symmetry and clean, geometric shapes – have been employed on the 18.01 Abyss Concept, albeit with tweaks for maximum functionality underwater. The most fundamental element of a dive watch, the unidirectional, 60-click bezel, has a ceramic insert marked with an unusual redesign of the conventional, elapsed time scale. Filled with white Super-Luminova, the markings on the bezel co...

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver SJX Watches
Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Launched Jun 27, 2019

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver

Launched two years ago with a steel case, the BR 03-92 Diver took the signature aviation inspired design of Bell & Ross (B&R;) into the sea. It was a proper dive watch that combined the iconic square case with a 300m depth rating and a rotating bezel. At Baselworld this year, B&R; unveiled two new iterations of the BR 03-92 Diver, with cases in bronze and matte black ceramic respectively. Though fundamentally identical, each is drastically different from the other in look and feel. The road to the deep But first a quick recap of B&R;’s past dive watches. Though the brand is today best known for its military aviation watches, B&R; got its start making watches (which were essentially rebadged Sinn timepieces) for professionals in various spheres, from bomb disposal engineers to deep sea divers. One of its earliest dive watches was the Hydromax (also known as the Hydro Challenger) of 1997. It was a compact, round watch with a quartz movement boasting a ludicrous depth rating of 11,100m, thanks to a case filled with transparent fluorinated oil that was incompressible. A decade later, the brand was producing its own watches and unveiled the BR 02, a tonneau-shaped dive watch with a 1000m depth rating, internal rotating bezel and helium escape valve. Then came the BR 03-92 in 2017, the most logical expression of a dive watch for a brand driven largely by military-inspired design. Crucially, bona fide square watch cases are inherently more difficult to seal against ...

Leap year? No worries – 3 celebrities rocking the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G Jun 26, 2019

Leap year? No worries – 3 celebrities rocking the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G was unveiled at Baselworld 2018 to much fanfare, as it marked the debut of the perpetual calendar complication in the iconic Gérald Genta-designed watch. It still retains its signature looks, with the embossed blue dial, integrated bracelet and 40mm size. It’s also got a pleasing degree of heft … ContinuedThe post Leap year? No worries – 3 celebrities rocking the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tom Selleck on why he still wears his ‘Magnum, P.I.’ Rolex Time+Tide
Rolex Editor’s note Men don’t Jun 26, 2019

Tom Selleck on why he still wears his ‘Magnum, P.I.’ Rolex

Editor’s note: Men don’t come much manlier than Tom Selleck’s Magnum, P.I. This guy had it all – the car, the ‘stache and, most importantly, the watch. Last year the FHH ran an excellent interview with the man himself and his watch. It’s awesome.  All that’s left of my Magnum days are my Rolex, a … ContinuedThe post Tom Selleck on why he still wears his ‘Magnum, P.I.’ Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Monsieur de Chanel Pocket Watch SJX Watches
Chanel Pocket Watch Every year Chanel Jun 24, 2019

Hands-On: Monsieur de Chanel Pocket Watch

Every year Chanel debuts a handful of timekeeping objects that are sleekly monochromatic yet lavishly constructed of precious materials like gold and rock crystal. They are beautiful, expensive, and the sort of object that would look at home in a US$100m penthouse. And because there are enough such penthouses to go around, these objets d’art inevitably find owners every year. Last year’s collection of objects included the Monsieur de Chanel Chronosphere, a clock within a glass globe supported by blackened-bronze lions, which was a five-piece limited edition. But the collection also included the one of a kind Monsieur de Chanel Pocket Watch suspended in a jewelled stand, an object that is simultaneously discreet and extravagant. Photo – Chanel Although the pocket watch and its stand retail for almost US$800,000, it is discreet to a fault.  All of the materials within are precious, but the entire object is almost monochromatic. The pocket watch can be removed and carried, but is more likely to function as the ultimate desk clock. Standing about 25cm, or 10in, high, the stand is polished 18k white gold and panelled in glossy obsidian, a black, volcanic rock. And while it does not look the part, the sculpted lion is also 18k gold, but coated entirely in smooth, black Hyceram, a composite of ceramic and polymer. The diamonds within the stand are substantial, but subtle – the lion’s paw rests on a 18k gold sphere covered in baguette diamonds. The big ca...

Watch that time Jimmy Fallon gave his father-in-law a Bremont on live TV Time+Tide
Bremont Jun 22, 2019

Watch that time Jimmy Fallon gave his father-in-law a Bremont on live TV

Editor’s note: Everyone loves a good celebrity watch-spotting moment – and they don’t come much better than that time Jimmy Fallon gave his father-in-law one of the coolest watches of modern times, the Bremont MBI. You’ve probably seen it before, but it’s definitely worth another look …  Contrary to what you might expect, the greatest … ContinuedThe post Watch that time Jimmy Fallon gave his father-in-law a Bremont on live TV appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Thin end of the wedge – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Jun 20, 2019

Thin end of the wedge – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic

The first watch I saw at Baselworld 2019 was the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic. I saw it at a preview dinner before the fair proper, and honestly, it kind of ruined me for other watches at the fair.  The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic is just so impressive. Not only is it … ContinuedThe post Thin end of the wedge – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

This is why the Patek Philippe Aquanaut 20th Birthday edition was such an important signal of things to come Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Aquanaut 20th Birthday edition Jun 8, 2019

This is why the Patek Philippe Aquanaut 20th Birthday edition was such an important signal of things to come

Editor’s note: To celebrate the Aquanaut’s 20th birthday in 2017, Patek Philippe released the enlarged (from 40 to 42.2mm) and quietly in charge Aquanaut ref. 5168G. a watch that remains a reminder of the collection’s youth. In more recent years, the model has struck confident new poses such as the ref 5968A chronograph, with its popping orange … ContinuedThe post This is why the Patek Philippe Aquanaut 20th Birthday edition was such an important signal of things to come appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 things you need to know about Bremont that explain why they have come so far so fast Time+Tide
Bremont Jun 3, 2019

5 things you need to know about Bremont that explain why they have come so far so fast

I distinctly remember the first time my interest was piqued in Bremont. Until then, I’d seen the brand around, but not been attracted to what appeared to be pretty plum conservative designs. I’d noticed the watch in Kingsman: The Secret Service and thought it was a clever, jolly appropriate spot for such a British brand, but … ContinuedThe post 5 things you need to know about Bremont that explain why they have come so far so fast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: The long and winding history of the NATO strap  Time+Tide
May 31, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The long and winding history of the NATO strap 

These days, “NATO strap” is a catch-all term for any sort of nylon or fabric watch strap. In reality, it’s a little more complex. The use of the term NATO is something of a misappropriation that arose because the ‘original’ fabric strap (20mm, nylon, chrome-plated hardware, in admiralty grey) could be requested using a form … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The long and winding history of the NATO strap  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The stealthy excellence of the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 in white gold (ref. 226659) Time+Tide
Rolex Yacht-Master 42 May 28, 2019

The stealthy excellence of the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 in white gold (ref. 226659)

If you weren’t paying close attention you could easily miss the new Rolex Yacht-Master 42 in white gold. And I mean that in the best way. It’s a handsome timepiece, with a quiet presence that (despite its newness) feels reassuringly familiar in some hard-to-define way. Despite being 2mm bigger than its Everose Gold brother (and … ContinuedThe post The stealthy excellence of the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 in white gold (ref. 226659) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Heavy metal heaven – the Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000D-1 Time+Tide
Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000D-1 May 28, 2019

Heavy metal heaven – the Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000D-1

Editor’s note: Cameron is a big fan of Casio, and is the proud owner of a beautiful golden boy. So it was no surprise that he raised his hand to review the quite heavy and very cool Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000D-1. Read on …  Anyone else ever play this game? Sitting at my desk … ContinuedThe post Heavy metal heaven – the Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000D-1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our 5 favourite Franck Muller watches from the new 2019 collection, with a focus on the crazy ones Time+Tide
Franck Muller May 28, 2019

Our 5 favourite Franck Muller watches from the new 2019 collection, with a focus on the crazy ones

It’s quite possible that when Steve Jobs said, ‘Here’s to the crazy ones’, that master watchmaker Franck Muller was listening. And that he was inspired. Because when Franck Muller does watches well, the brand does them in a certain crazy, poetic and preposterous way. Take my absolute favourite (perhaps until a new contender, the 2019 … ContinuedThe post Our 5 favourite Franck Muller watches from the new 2019 collection, with a focus on the crazy ones appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Dressy but not delicate, the Blancpain Villeret Extra Flat 6605  Time+Tide
Blancpain Villeret Extra Flat 6605  May 26, 2019

HANDS-ON: Dressy but not delicate, the Blancpain Villeret Extra Flat 6605 

Increasingly, I’m finding myself drawn to watches that are understated, unassuming expressions of classical perfection. Which goes a long way to explaining why I was so into the Blancpain Villeret Extra Flat.  This is an exquisitely simple watch. Two hands, no date and a manually wound movement. A pure expression of classical watchmaking if ever … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Dressy but not delicate, the Blancpain Villeret Extra Flat 6605  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Arktis 10th Anniversary  Time+Tide
Linde Werdelin May 25, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Arktis 10th Anniversary 

Linde Werdelin is one of those brands that knows what it does, and does it well. And what they do is complex cases with numerous cutouts. It’s a strong look, and one that the brand has sensibly stayed loyal to over the years. Their latest limited edition SpidoSpeed Arktis continues the theme.  The 44mm case … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Arktis 10th Anniversary  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Rush, racing and remembering Niki Lauda Time+Tide
May 21, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Rush, racing and remembering Niki Lauda

The inimitable Niki Lauda died yesterday, and Formula 1 lost one of its most enduring icons. And I don’t know about you, but my own little tribute to this man will take the form of finishing off Formula 1: Drive to Survive (and marvelling at the on and off-track intensity of the sport), and re-watching … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Rush, racing and remembering Niki Lauda appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Is Aurel Bacs the Willy Wonka of watches? Time+Tide
May 21, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Is Aurel Bacs the Willy Wonka of watches?

The above question greeted me when I opened my email this morning - it was such a perfect allegory (heck, watches, chocolate and Bacs are amongst the most Swiss things ever) that I had to open it. Eventually, I scrolled through the mailing list, and came to the article, an extensive GQ profile of Phillips’ … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Is Aurel Bacs the Willy Wonka of watches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: The ultimate guide to the vintage Heuer Monaco Time+Tide
TAG Heuer that’s celebrating May 20, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The ultimate guide to the vintage Heuer Monaco

  The Monaco Grand Prix kicks off on May 26, and amidst the high octane and hairpin turns, it’s widely expected that we’re going to get some sort of announcement from TAG Heuer that’s celebrating the 50th anniversary of what’s arguably TAG Heuer’s most famous watch, the Monaco.  And while we can’t be sure about … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The ultimate guide to the vintage Heuer Monaco appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Air Command Time+Tide
Blancpain Air Command When we May 18, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Air Command

When we were shown the new Blancpain products at Time to Move, we expected to see Fifty Fathoms and Villeret. We did not expect a pilot’s chronograph.  But, oh boy, was the Blancpain Air Command a pleasant surprise. On its face, this 500-piece limited edition is a very handsome heritage-styled number, with a 42.5mm steel … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Air Command appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.