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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

First Look – The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, the Icon in Dark Mode Monochrome
IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium Feb 26, 2026

First Look – The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, the Icon in Dark Mode

Since its introduction in 1998, the classic IWC Portugieser Chronograph (ref. IW3914) has barely evolved visually. It has only undergone a technical upgrade in 2020, with the introduction of a new generation featuring a manufacture calibre inside (ref. IW3916). And that consistency in the design and overall sporty-chic, nautically-inspired spirit is what makes this watch […]

Hands-On With The Rado Anatom Automatic Skeleton Fratello
Rado Anatom Automatic Skeleton It’s Feb 25, 2026

Hands-On With The Rado Anatom Automatic Skeleton

It’s time for a short confession: generally, I am not the biggest fan of skeletonized watches. While I greatly appreciate the possibility of witnessing a caliber in action, I much prefer to see it in action through a sapphire display in the case back. It’s purely an aesthetic thing because, as a design fanatic, I […] Visit Hands-On With The Rado Anatom Automatic Skeleton to read the full article.

Introducing – Chronoswiss Goes Bold with the new Space Timer Gravity Monochrome
Chronoswiss Feb 25, 2026

Introducing – Chronoswiss Goes Bold with the new Space Timer Gravity

Chronoswiss, once best known for classically-styled regulator watches or skeletonised chronographs, has embraced a far more expressive, colourful and demonstrative design. The Space Timer collection is at the centre of this change, translating the traditional regulator display into rather bold compositions inspired by the cosmos. With the new Space Timer Gravity edition, Chronoswiss focuses not […]

First Look – New and Vibrant Dial Colours for the Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart Series Monochrome
Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart Series Feb 24, 2026

First Look – New and Vibrant Dial Colours for the Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart Series

The Jazzmaster collection by Hamilton is where classical watchmaking meets contemporary design, offering mechanical substance without unnecessary ornament. With the latest Jazzmaster Open Heart models, not to be confused with the skeleton versions, Hamilton expands the series with a wide range of dial colours across three sizes, to please as many clients as possible.  The […]

Introducing – A Classic Rejuvenated, Chronoswiss Releases the Lunar Chronograph Aurora Monochrome
Breguet inspired features was modernised Feb 24, 2026

Introducing – A Classic Rejuvenated, Chronoswiss Releases the Lunar Chronograph Aurora

Chronoswiss was founded in 1983 by German watchmaker Gerd Rüdiger Lang and was sold in early 2012 to Swiss entrepreneurs Oliver and Eva Ebstein, who transferred operations to Lucerne, Switzerland. Known for reviving the regulator layout, Lang’s neoclassical design language, characterised by oversized onion crowns, knurled bezels, guilloché dials and Breguet-inspired features, was modernised by […]

Moser’s Streamliner Goes All-Ceramic for the First Time SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie dips Feb 24, 2026

Moser’s Streamliner Goes All-Ceramic for the First Time

H. Moser & Cie. dips its toes into ceramic for the first time with the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic, a bold watch that blends an original design with the high-tech proprieties of ceramic. Despite being a variation of a well-known model at its core, the new Streamliner is unexpectedly different and appealing, especially with a hand-finished ceramic bracelet, an unusual feature even in its segment. Initial thoughts The use of ceramic materials in watches is no longer a novelty. The inert and hard material is appealing for its near-invulnerability to scratches and high tech feel. Ceramics are typically employed for either for aesthetic or technical purposes, but usually for watch cases, while ceramic bracelets are almost exclusively the preserve of large brands that can afford working with the hard-to-machine material.  Though still a niche brand, H. Moser & Cie.’s bestselling Streamliner is dressed entirely in ceramic, with a ceramic case paired with a ceramic bracelet. An all-ceramic bracelet is a rare sight from a brand of Moser’s scale. The matte, brushed finish of the ceramic exterior is at the opposite end of the colour spectrum compared with the bright red yet minimalist dial, giving this the signature Moser look. The granular, glossy finish of the fired enamel dial contrast and complements the matte, stealthy sheen of ceramic.   The watch is paradoxical in some ways. Pairing Moser’s first ceramic case and bracelet with a tourbillon is somewhat incong...

Introducing – The New Rose Gold Edition of the Krayon Anyday Monochrome
Krayon Feb 23, 2026

Introducing – The New Rose Gold Edition of the Krayon Anyday

Rémi Maillat, a watch design engineer, is behind the independent Krayon brand and creates watches that centre on our connection with natural time cycles. Krayon’s award-winning Everywhere watch, which charts sunset and sunrise times at any location worldwide, was succeeded by Maillat’s slightly simpler Anywhere watch, showing the length of the day along with sunrise and […]

A Hands-On Introduction To The Excellent Traska Chronograph Fratello
Feb 23, 2026

A Hands-On Introduction To The Excellent Traska Chronograph

There are so many brands in the world of watches. Consequently, it’s not only hard to keep up sometimes, but it’s even harder to find personal favorites. Sometimes it’s about design, sometimes it’s about name and heritage, and sometimes it’s about pushing technical boundaries. As a young brand, Traska adds something very important to its […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Excellent Traska Chronograph to read the full article.

Cutting Through The Noise With The Quiet Side Of High Horology Fratello
Feb 21, 2026

Cutting Through The Noise With The Quiet Side Of High Horology

High horology in 2026 often comes wrapped in noise - big launches, dramatic case shapes, exposed mechanics, and a constant push to be the most talked-about watch of the week. Yes, I do enjoy that world. Modern, design-led independence is where much of the creativity happens. But there’s another tier of luxury independent watchmaking running […] Visit Cutting Through The Noise With The Quiet Side Of High Horology to read the full article.

Introducing – The Orient Star 75th Anniversary M42 Diver 1964 1st Edition F6 Date 200m Monochrome
Grand Seiko Feb 19, 2026

Introducing – The Orient Star 75th Anniversary M42 Diver 1964 1st Edition F6 Date 200m

Using the analogy of Grand Seiko and Seiko, Orient Star is the premium division of Orient watches (both part of Seiko Epson since 2017). Established in 1951, Orient Star produces more refined watches featuring complications and a characteristic Japanese balance of quality and value. Celebrating its 75th anniversary, Orient Star reimagines the design of its […]

H. Moser Introduces their First Ceramic Watch, the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic Worn & Wound
H. Moser Introduces their First Ceramic Feb 18, 2026

H. Moser Introduces their First Ceramic Watch, the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic

When it comes to high end watches, we all have our little rabbit holes that we’re particularly and endlessly fascinated by. For me, H. Moser tourbillons have been points of obsession since the first time I encountered one. There’s something about Moser’s contemporary approach to design acting as a counterpoint to the classical way a tourbillon is typically executed that I find really appealing. One of my favorite experiences reviewing a watch remains my time with the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack, which is certainly the most insane thing I’ve ever been trusted with for a watch review, and for sentimental reasons as well as just being an incredibly impressive piece of horological art, it’s probably among my favorite watches of all time.  Today Moser launches a new tourbillon, in a new material, that has me thinking of that solid gold, Vantablack Streamliner once again. The Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic is the brand’s first ever watch in ceramic, and returns to the “Concept” dial format, something that inspires many hot takes on Instagram, but is a style I’ve always loved.  The Streamliner is Moser’s sportiest watch, so it makes sense they’d debut an inherently sporty material on this platform. The 40mm case and bracelet are made entirely of ceramic in an anthracite gray color, and surfaces have been given a combination of satin finishing and polishing. Getting the finishing right on a high end ceramic watch is where the real “flex” i...

Bremont Introduces the Terra Nova Jumping Hour Stealth Black Worn & Wound
Bremont Introduces Feb 17, 2026

Bremont Introduces the Terra Nova Jumping Hour Stealth Black

Certain watch niches are riskier than others; for instance, seemingly every brand has tried a dive watch or chronograph because they are guaranteed crowd pleasers with straightforward functionality, whereas a world timer or moonphase complication is a little trickier to market to a general audience. In that corner of hyperniche sits the jumping hour watch, which to a non-watch nerd, is both visually and functionally baffling. But Bremont is no stranger to the jumping hour concept, having released successful models with the complication in the recent past. How have they fared with their latest iteration, the Terra Nova 38 Stealth Black? Let’s jump in and find out. While a seasoned horological expert may be familiar with a jumping hour complication, the casual shopper likely isn’t: basically, instead of displaying a sweeping hour hand, a jumping hour watch points to the current hour and “jumps” to the next hour once 60 minutes have elapsed. Conversely, it may instead display the hour in a window, with an imprinted disc moving below that ticks over to the next digit, much like a date window. The Stealth Black opts for the latter presentation, which gives it a clean, retro-futuristic design that differs from previous models in the brand’s jumping hour catalog, and their Terra Nova line more broadly. As the name suggests, the Stealth Black is characterized by its 38mm black DLC stainless steel case, finished in black diamond carbon-like coating, which gives it a sci-f...

Hands-On With The Impressive Venezianico Redentore Utopia II Fratello
Venezianico Redentore Utopia II We Feb 16, 2026

Hands-On With The Impressive Venezianico Redentore Utopia II

We have covered quite a few Venezianico releases over the past two years. If there is one thing that stands out, it’s how the brand has constantly raised the bar in design, quality, and movements. Midway through last year, Venezianico took a bold step into the future with the release of the Redentore Utopia. It […] Visit Hands-On With The Impressive Venezianico Redentore Utopia II to read the full article.

Grand Seiko Introduces the SBGX359 and SBGX361, Featuring their Smallest and Thinnest Quartz Movement Yet Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Introduces Feb 16, 2026

Grand Seiko Introduces the SBGX359 and SBGX361, Featuring their Smallest and Thinnest Quartz Movement Yet

While design hallmarks have come and gone, few say “Grand Seiko” quite like the iconic Snowflake dial, first introduced in 2005. Inspired by the frosty Hotaka mountain range in the brand’s home prefecture, Nagano, light plays across the fine texture to emphasize the slight variations in depth on the surface of the dial. The result is nothing short of stunning, and helped shape Grand Seiko and their philosophy of the “Nature of Time”. So how do you build on an icon? You introduce tasteful variations. Easier said than done, of course, but Grand Seiko has done it successfully before, by introducing the Skyflake dial, a light blue version of the Snowflake. And now, we have two new Snowflake and Skyflake models to showcase the evolution of the icon: the SBGX359 and SBGX361, in a compact 33mm case, making them the smallest in the Grand Seiko 9F line yet. Even more impressive is the 9.1mm thickness, which is only possible thanks to the Caliber 9F51 quartz movement, which is the first new movement in the 9F line since 2020, and allows for an accuracy of ± 10 seconds a year. In natural Grand Seiko fashion, each movement is hand-assembled by watchmakers at the Shinshu Watch Studio at the brand’s Shiojiri facility and feature three-month aged quartz crystals and a manual regulation switch for accuracy fine-tuning during servicing. All of that is to say that this is not a basic quartz movement; it’s a Grand Seiko quartz movement, which is sure to excel in both function ...

Hands-On With The Extravagant Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Series Fratello
Feb 16, 2026

Hands-On With The Extravagant Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Series

Sometimes, extravagant timepieces come along and light up my life as a watch writer. You should have seen the look on my face when three Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic models landed on my desk. I knew that they were coming in, but they still surprised me. These extravagant watches display bold Italian design that looks like […] Visit Hands-On With The Extravagant Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Series to read the full article.

Introducing – The New and Modern MeisterSinger Archao Collection Monochrome
MeisterSinger Feb 13, 2026

Introducing – The New and Modern MeisterSinger Archao Collection

MeisterSinger’s single-handed watches have the distinct advantage of being immediately recognisable. Although there might be other brands with one-handers, MeisterSinger is the indisputable leader of the pack. With an emphasis on minimalist German design, MeisterSinger’s mono-handed watches offer a more relaxed approach to reading the time, but should not be equated with simple watches, far […]

Hands-On: the Jack Mason Strat-o-timer GMT Frontier Worn & Wound
Feb 11, 2026

Hands-On: the Jack Mason Strat-o-timer GMT Frontier

There are two types of watch reviews I particularly enjoy writing. One is a review for a watch that is truly bonkers. Something either outrageously expensive, avant-garde in its design sensibilities, off the beaten path and kind of rare, or some combination of all of the above. These are the types of watches I personally gravitate towards as a collector (well, not the outrageously expensive part, but the rest of it) and I find that typically I have an awful lot to say about them. It’s fun to write these reviews because it feels like I’m sharing my actual enthusiasm for something in a really pure and direct way.  The other type of review I like to write is for watches that are basically on the opposite side of the spectrum when it comes to my taste. It’s a challenge (if not necessarily fun in the same way) to write about a watch that brushes up against my own biases. It’s a useful exercise as a writer to evaluate something that is outside of your wheelhouse and comfort zone. And it certainly makes for better and more interesting copy than writing about a watch that is simply generic, neither a challenge to your taste or something you’d plunk down the credit card for to purchase yourself.  The new watch from Jack Mason is, for me, decidedly in that second category, a watch that I can tell from one photo is objectively nice and will have a strong following among enthusiasts, but is just not the type of thing I typically go for. The new Strat-o-timer GMT Frontier i...

Introducing – The Ming 56.00 Starfield, the Brand’s First Watch with an Integrated Bracelet Monochrome
Ming Feb 9, 2026

Introducing – The Ming 56.00 Starfield, the Brand’s First Watch with an Integrated Bracelet

Independent watchmaking rarely stands still, but Horologer MING has made a habit of using evolution rather than repetition as its driving force. Since the brand’s founding in 2017, Ming Thein and his team have mastered light, form and restraint, while also pushing technical boundaries behind the scenes. With the recent launch of the fifth-generation design […]

Is The Baume & Mercier Clifton The Perfect Gentleman’s Watch? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Baume & Mercier Clifton Feb 6, 2026

Is The Baume & Mercier Clifton The Perfect Gentleman’s Watch? (Hands-On)

Though the aftershocks of news surrounding Baume & Mercier is still being felt, does their new Clifton keep the ball rolling? Let’s find out! What We Love: Elegant, slim case silhouette One of the comfiest bracelets I’ve ever worn Baumatic = Best value? What We Don’t: Fairly ordinary appearance, not for those wanting dramatic flair Bracelet finishing invites scratches and smudges Crown operation feels off Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8/10 Is the dress watch dead? Both Matt and I have attempted to answer this question on separate occasions. Matt argued that, in the contemporary space, the dress watch has fallen out of favour. I, on the other hand, believe dress watches remain prevalent and are thriving within the accessible segment of quartz timepieces. However, there are still a handful of brands that have committed themselves to collections defined by elegant aesthetics and attainable price points. One of these brands, Raymond Weil, is one we’ve discussed extensively, but they are far from the only player in this market. WATCH EDUCATION: An Introduction Into Baume & Mercier Founded in 1830, Baume & Mercier has maintained a notable presence within this relatively accessible tier of luxury watchmaking. A long-time subsidiary of the Richemont Group since 1988, the brand has used this period to develop watches that are balanced yet distinctive, both in design and mechanics. While the Riviera collection...

Introducing: The Urwerk UR-100V Lightspeed Ceramic Fratello
Urwerk UR-100V Lightspeed Ceramic Urwerk Feb 6, 2026

Introducing: The Urwerk UR-100V Lightspeed Ceramic

Urwerk is always up to something fun, and today’s new UR-100V Lightspeed Ceramic is proof. While we’ve seen this complication before, it now comes with some novel material innovations. Let’s have a closer look. It doesn’t feel like so long ago that we were visiting Urwerk’s headquarters during Geneva Watch Days. However, only six months […] Visit Introducing: The Urwerk UR-100V Lightspeed Ceramic to read the full article.

Urwerk Introduces the UR-100V LS Ceramic Worn & Wound
Urwerk Introduces Feb 6, 2026

Urwerk Introduces the UR-100V LS Ceramic

The Urwerk UR-100 has become one of my favorite designs in high end independent watchmaking. Whenever I encounter one (a rare event given the brand’s annual production of just around 200 watches total) I’m blown away by the way it distills the essence of the brand into a completely wearable, compact, package. I’ve always been a fan of the Urwerk philosophy, but until I tried on a UR-100 I always felt the watches themselves might be too ungainly or oddly shaped for me personally. There’s something about this case though, mostly its impressive thinness, that makes it feel like a “normal” watch on the wrist but still something otherworldly when you look down to check the time. That, to me, feels like a sweet spot.  The latest from Urwerk brings a new watch into the UR-100 lineage with the UR-100V LS Ceramic. This is effectively a new variant of the original UR-100V LS (short for “light speed,” which we’ll get to momentarily) that appeared in 2024. The new watch features a white ceramic case, a first for the brand and more complex than it first appears, and the same whimsical ideology of its predecessor, and many other Urwerk watches, which are all in one way or another a commentary on timekeeping itself.  All Urwerks (well, almost all) share a common wandering hour satellite time telling mechanism that has become their calling card. It’s actually a rather mechanically elegant way to tell the time, basically with a wandering hour “pointer” to a fixed ...

Introducing – The New Sarpaneva Stardust Pluto and Stardust Mars Monochrome
Sarpaneva Feb 6, 2026

Introducing – The New Sarpaneva Stardust Pluto and Stardust Mars

Since founding Sarpaneva Watches in Helsinki, the independent Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva has consistently explored an approach shaped by the Nordic visual universe, mechanical honesty and a powerful sense of narrative. Best known for his Korona case design and expressive moon displays, Sarpaneva has built a recognisable catalogue which offers a combination of traditional watchmaking […]