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Results for Côtes de Genève

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Côtes de Genève

Parallel-striped decoration on bridges and rotors; the Swiss (or Glashütte) finishing marker.
The Latest From Massena LAB is a Collaboration with an Entirely New Brand: Albishorn Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Aug 29, 2024

The Latest From Massena LAB is a Collaboration with an Entirely New Brand: Albishorn

Well, it wouldn’t be Geneva Watch Days without some wild new release from Massena LAB. Last year, the well-known design house partnered with Sylvain Pinaud to offer up a take on Pinaud’s modern marvel of a chronograph. This year, they’re looking back, joining with a brand new independent watchmaker making their debut at Geneva Watch Days, Albishorn, to give us something a little different. Albishorn, as I said, is a brand new indie brand with a unique focus - creating what they call “imaginary vintage” watches that bend watchmaking history to create something a little different. Their inaugural release, produced in partnership with Massena LAB, imagines a hypothetical late 1930s regatta chronograph (or regatta timer if you prefer), inspired by Le Bol d’Or Mirabaud - the world’s largest inland lake regatta, first run in 1939 on Lac Léman. A quick glance at the new Albishorn x Massena LAB Maxigraph will leave vintage heads with a clear sense of origin. The new watch clearly pulls design language from Rolex’s iconic Zerographe chronographs, the early predecessor to now iconic watches like the Daytona. The watch’s dial layout is also reminiscent of World War II multi-scale chronographs, and the mono-pusher layout certainly invokes a vintage charm. Obviously, this is not a genuine vintage watch, and certain details of the Maxigraph betray that. The execution feels quite modern, with sharply machined elements like the stark red pusher on the case flank, mu...

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Introducing: The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance – First Edition Fratello
Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Aug 29, 2024

Introducing: The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance – First Edition

We’re in the thick of Geneva Watch Days 2024. For some brands, this means debuting novelties. Today, Armin Strom brings us the Dual Time GMT Resonance – First Edition, an all-new take on the brand’s well-known complication. Folks, this one’s a beauty. Armin Strom is no stranger to creating highly complicated Haute Horlogerie timepieces. The […] Visit Introducing: The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance – First Edition to read the full article.

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Hot Take: Tudor Introduces A New Blue Colorway For the Black Bay Chrono Fratello
Tudor Introduces Aug 28, 2024

Hot Take: Tudor Introduces A New Blue Colorway For the Black Bay Chrono

As the watch world holds its breath ahead of Geneva Watch Days, Tudor has taken the opportunity to debut a new blue colorway for the Black Bay Chrono. This latest iteration also features the fan-favorite five-row bracelet, which only made its way onto the model earlier this year. First introduced in both panda and reverse […] Visit Hot Take: Tudor Introduces A New Blue Colorway For the Black Bay Chrono to read the full article.

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Urwerk’s Legendary EMC is Back in a Limited Edition Inspired by the SR-71 Blackbird Worn & Wound
Urwerk s Legendary EMC Aug 21, 2024

Urwerk’s Legendary EMC is Back in a Limited Edition Inspired by the SR-71 Blackbird

Ahead of Geneva Watch Days next week, Urwerk has unveiled what will surely be in the running for “Watch of the Year” talk when 2024 comes to a close. The EMC SR-71 is a new variation of one of the independent brand’s most discussed and honored timepieces. The original EMC, introduced ten years ago, is a former winner of the GPHG prizes in both the “Mechanical Exception” and “Innovation” categories. Even within the strange world of Urwerk, the EMC is an oddity, so it’s always exciting to see them return to this platform with a new variant.  EMC stands for Electronic Mechanical Control, a term that seems to contradict itself but actually does a fantastic job of describing exactly what this watch does. What you need to know about how this watch operates is that the traditional time telling functions (hours, minutes, seconds, and power reserve) all operate mechanically. But integrated into the movement is an optical sensor linked to the balance that, on demand, can record the rate at which it is oscillating. Using light and an integrated circuit, the movement will tell you the delta between the timing rate of the mechanical movement and a reference oscillator (a 16,000,000 Hz mega-quartz oscillator in this case). Pressing a button on the side of the case activates a meter at roughly 10:00, telling you how fast or slow your watch is running. What’s more, the watch is equipped with a timing adjustment screw on the caseback that can be accessed by the owner wit...

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Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K- RJ’s Picks From Breitling, Omega, And Grand Seiko Fratello
Grand Seiko During last year’s Watches Aug 19, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K- RJ’s Picks From Breitling, Omega, And Grand Seiko

During last year’s Watches and Wonders, I repeatedly stated that €10K is the new €5K. This is something that applies to what it feels like you get watch-wise at the given price point. I raised the bar even further to €15K in this year’s Geneva show. For those of us who have been around, it’s […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K- RJ’s Picks From Breitling, Omega, And Grand Seiko to read the full article.

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Hands On: Chanel Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black Edition SJX Watches
Chanel Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black Aug 15, 2024

Hands On: Chanel Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black Edition

First conceived as an auto-racing inspired take on its jumping hour wristwatch, the Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Intense Black Edition is the second iteration of the model. Retaining the same design as the original Monsieur Superleggera, the Intense Black Edition is powered by the Caliber 1, a thoughtfully constructed in-house movement. Italian for “super light”, Superleggera is named after the lightweight body-on-frame race cars of the 1930s, a reference to the ceramic-on-steel construction of the Monsieur case. Initial thoughts The original Chanel Monsieur was proof that “fashion” brands can create watches as good as, or better than, their traditional watchmaking counterparts. I liked it for the fact that the design of both the watch and the movement were cohesive, illustrating an attention to detail – right down to the shape of the balance wheel and typography – that most watch brands lack. The Marble Edition is a particular favourite. A sportier and slightly larger version of the original, the Monsieur Superleggera has a more designed aesthetic with the textured, open-worked dial and crown guards, but the design still remains cohesive. It has just the right amount of detail, including the applied retro “Superleggera” logo. Styling aside, the movement remains the same and excellent. Besides the unusual complications – jumping hours and retrograde minutes in a vertically symmetrically layout – the Caliber 1 has a distinctive construction that show...

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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Tommy DeMauro Worn & Wound
Cartier was certainly not lost Aug 9, 2024

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Tommy DeMauro

Editor’s Note: For this edition of The Three Watch Collection for $5,000, we turn to one of our newest contributors, Tommy DeMauro. Tommy has a deep appreciation and knowledge for a particular flavor of affordable vintage. Think ana-digi watches, under the radar and nearly forgotten references from big brands, and pure novelty. Tommy has a great eye and loves digging into the lost classics, and we’ll be bringing you his practical guides to these unusual watches in the coming months. But until then, here’s his 3 for 5k contribution, which ought to give you a sense of what Tommy is all about.  As someone who has firmly cemented themself in the affordable vintage market, the three-watch collection for under $5,000 challenge unlocked newfound territory for me.  Only owning watches with an initial cost of roughly $400 or less (before service or repairs if needed), I have no experience with luxury brands or any pieces whose market value exceeds my rather low price point. While the appeal of owning a Rolex, IWC, or Cartier was certainly not lost on me when deciding which watches to choose, I wanted to stick close to my roots and pay my respect to iconic brands often found within the affordable end of the market. Now, before I even begin to unpack my three choices, let me first explain my thought process here. I typically gravitate towards the obscure and unique because of my love for design and expression––why have what everyone else is having? That being said, yes, I...

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Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph - A European Limited Edition Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph - Jul 30, 2024

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph - A European Limited Edition

At last year’s edition of Watches and Wonders in Geneva, TAG Heuer introduced its new Carrera Chronograph collection with the so-called “Glassbox” design. We are big fans of the regular 39mm version in its blue and black/silver configurations. Maybe that’s why we didn’t dedicate too much attention to the 42mm blue-dial tourbillon version that came […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph - A European Limited Edition to read the full article.

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Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Daan’s Picks From Seiko, Ressence, Rolex, And More Fratello
Ressence Rolex Jul 19, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Daan’s Picks From Seiko, Ressence, Rolex, And More

Yes, it’s time to talk about watches for summer because that is indeed the season we’re in right now. This series is a nice reminder of that because the weather gods haven’t shown us any summer yet here in the Netherlands. I keep telling my six-year-old daughter that we’re actually in the middle of summer […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Daan’s Picks From Seiko, Ressence, Rolex, And More to read the full article.

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Visiting the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Manufacture Jul 19, 2024

Visiting the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture

The Plan-les-Ouates district of Geneva is well-known for its concentration of watchmaking facilities, earning it the nickname “Plan-les-Watch”. But the standout structure is arguably the Vacheron Constantin (VC) manufacture, which houses both management functions and production under one roof – or more specifically, under one curving metal skin that wraps over the top of the building from east to west. The area’s other prominent residents include Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Piaget, but you can also find numerous other brands like Frederique Constant, Harry Winston, and Laurent Ferrier clustered together in what feels like a large office park. “Plan-les-Watch” is where most of the actual watchmaking in Geneva gets done, since most brands have relocated their production facilities to the suburbs over time, leaving FP Journe as the only industrial operation in the city’s historic center. And it is here that power is expressed through architecture, from the imposing black glass facade of the Rolex building to the superyacht-like decks that wrap around the Patek Philippe manufacture. The reception at the manufacture. Image – Vacheron Constantin Completed in 2005 to celebrate VC’s 250th anniversary, the Vacheron Constantin building was designed by Bernard Tschumi Architects as a single building. A second wing was then added by the same firm in 2014, increasing both production space and staff amenities.  A key emphasis of the building is lighting, with expansive...

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Business News: Richemont First Quarter Results, Jewellery Faring Better Than Watches SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin were singled out Jul 16, 2024

Business News: Richemont First Quarter Results, Jewellery Faring Better Than Watches

The first quarter results of Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that just announced a new chief executive, illustrate a well-established trend in the luxury goods industry, with the group’s jewellery brands outperforming its watchmakers in the three months to end June 2024. Dominated by Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, the Swiss group’s jewellery division eked out a 4% increase in sales, reflecting the strength of the group’s twin jewellery giants. Notably, the revenue growth was “supported by both jewellery and watches”, reflecting the brand equity of each jeweller has carried over into their respective watch offerings. The three jewellery brands – the smallest is Buccellati – accounted for 70% of Richemont’s turnover. Although profit was not announced, the jewellers are also responsible for an even greater share of the group’s profits. Watch weakness In contrast, the watch division saw revenue fall 13%. Amongst the division’s brands are IWC, Panerai, Piaget, and Jaeger-LeCoultre. Interestingly, A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin were singled out for their “resilience”. Unsurprisingly, both are haute horlogerie brands that derive the highest proportion of revenue from in-house boutiques, as opposed to third-party retailers. Whether this resilience is durable is an open question, although odds are not in the brands’ favour given their respective product mix, sales strategies, and consumer sentiment. Only available at boutiques At a group leve...

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Chanel’s Première Transformed Into a Necklace Watch with Headphones SJX Watches
Chanel s Première Transformed Into Jul 15, 2024

Chanel’s Première Transformed Into a Necklace Watch with Headphones

Having launched the Première Édition Originale two years ago, a bestseller modelled on the No. 5 perfume bottle, Chanel has now extended the concept, literally, with the Première Sound Watch. It’s a necklace watch, or a montre sautoir, with a pair of wired earphones, or more specifically in-ear monitors (IEMs), that loop through the links of the chain. Initial thoughts Chanel is now a proper watchmaker with an expansive manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds (where the Monsieur is produced) and a stake in movement maker Kenissi, but it’s primarily a luxury fashion house that derives majority of its revenue from cosmetics and fashion. The Première Sound is very much a fashion watch – and an expensive one at that – but a logical creation that is both useful and instantly recognisable as Chanel. As an aside, the fact that the Première necklace watch is delivered with a pair of wired earphones, instead of wireless earbuds, is low tech but practical since it does away with flaky rechargeable batteries, which will inevitably extend its useful life. Importantly, the earphone cable loops into the necklace and is removable, meaning the Première Sound can revert to just being a necklace watch. Jennie of Korean girl group Blackpink with the Premiere Sound A bottle stopper watch Introduced in 1987, the Première is Chanel’s longest-lived bestseller. Its case is modelled on the cap of the No. 5 perfume bottle, itself inspired by the shape of the Place Vendôme, the square in ...

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Interview: Arnaud Chastaingt and His Vision for Chanel’s Watches SJX Watches
Cartier Mr Chastaingt took Jul 11, 2024

Interview: Arnaud Chastaingt and His Vision for Chanel’s Watches

Now having been director of Chanel’s watch creation studio for almost a dozen years, Arnaud Chastaingt has shaped the brand’s line-up of timepieces and time-telling objects, imbuing them with a distinctive yet versatile style that is still recognisably Chanel. After a decade at Cartier, Mr Chastaingt took the helm of the design studio as Chanel was expanding and refining its watch division. Besides the scaling up of its longtime manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, where top-of-the-line movements like Calibre 1 are produced, Chanel also invested in Kenissi, the movement maker majority owned by Tudor. The brand’s investments in watchmaking have paid off, with its 2024 collection including the J12 Couture Workshop wristwatch powered by the in-house Calibre 6 that incorporates an automaton of Coco Chanel wielding a pair of scissors. While the engineering and mechanics are all located in Switzerland, Mr Chastaingt mandates the aesthetics from the brand’s headquarters in Paris, even designing the bridges of the in-house movements. He spoke to us about design, details, and why a brand like Chanel makes complicated watches for men. The interview was edited for clarity and length. A tiny ring watch modelled on a pin cushion set with pearls and diamonds. Image – Chanel SJX: I’ve seen the new collection and I’m impressed by the variety and design. The first question is, I see a comic-inspired theme with the character watches and the automaton, but these are serious mechan...

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Hands-On With The 2024 Full-Gold Cartier Santos - Big, Bold, And Gold Fratello
Cartier Santos - Big Bold Jul 9, 2024

Hands-On With The 2024 Full-Gold Cartier Santos - Big, Bold, And Gold

A golden version of the Santos de Cartier is nothing new. Following Cartier’s two-tone revamp of its previously long-dormant pilot’s watch in 1978, several full-gold versions followed before the Santos collection’s discontinuation in 2016. Then, when Cartier brought it back in 2018, it came in steel, two-tone, and full gold. There have also already been […] Visit Hands-On With The 2024 Full-Gold Cartier Santos - Big, Bold, And Gold to read the full article.

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Christopher Ward Citizen Fortis G-SHOCK Oris Jul 7, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep.84: What’s Old is New Again

The summer slowdown is kicking in. New releases are down to a trickle, and pretty soon, Europe will just close for vacation, leaving us American media up to our own devices until they return at the end of August for Geneva Watch Days. This week we have one update to a much-loved line by Baltic, a new complication from Ochs Und Junior that is either really confusing or just not well explained, and then a new, smaller version of one of Vero’s most popular watches. Next time, we’ll be recording in Windup Watch Fair Chicago, which should promise some new and fun things. This week’s episode is brought to you by Windup Watch Fair Chicago, which is preparing to kick off on July 12th. Eindup Chicago is heading into its third year and will feature over 40 brands, including Christopher Ward, Citizen, Fortis, G-SHOCK, Oris, and many more. Located at Venue West in West Town, it’s sure to be another exciting year. Learn more at Windupwatchfair.com The post A Week in Watches Ep.84: What’s Old is New Again appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Introducing The Pragma P1 – Perseverance: A 100% Swiss Chronometer Made With 82.7% Recycled Materials Fratello
Rolex Jun 25, 2024

Introducing The Pragma P1 – Perseverance: A 100% Swiss Chronometer Made With 82.7% Recycled Materials

Geneva-based Pragma is the brainchild of Christopher Wegener and Kai-Hsuan Liu. Wegener has 21 years of experience in watchmaking; he worked for Rolex and F.P.Journe, for instance. Liu is the brand’s Creative Design Director. He has a background at Hermès and a studio of his own, and his forté is fusing natural and technological elements. […] Visit Introducing The Pragma P1 – Perseverance: A 100% Swiss Chronometer Made With 82.7% Recycled Materials to read the full article.

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Making This Monday Morning Count With The Raymond Weil Millesime Tri-Compax Chronograph Fratello
Raymond Weil Jun 10, 2024

Making This Monday Morning Count With The Raymond Weil Millesime Tri-Compax Chronograph

The French word millésime comes from the world of wine, not watches. It denotes a “vintage,” a wine produced from a single year’s grape harvest, especially a great one. So, the Raymond Weil Millesime Tri-Compax Chronograph is a 2024 vintage from Geneva. Whether 2024 is going to be a fruitful watch year is yet to […] Visit Making This Monday Morning Count With The Raymond Weil Millesime Tri-Compax Chronograph to read the full article.

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Hodinkee Launches their Second Collaboration with French Retailer Merci Worn & Wound
Jun 6, 2024

Hodinkee Launches their Second Collaboration with French Retailer Merci

Hodinkee and Parisian concept shop Merci have just released the Merci Instruments Beaumarchais H02 Limited Edition for Hodinkee for their second collaboration together. You’re undoubtedly familiar with Hodinkee, but for those uninitiated to the Marais-based store, Merci embodies Parisian chic while offering a curated selection of products ranging from home goods to fashion. Through its subsidiary brand, Merci Instruments, the company combines a lighthearted approach to watchmaking with an eye towards the past for inspiration.  The design of the Merci Instruments Beaumarchais H02 Limited Edition reflects a vintage aesthetic reminiscent of 1940s dress watches. Unlike traditional round or square cases, this watch features an octagon-shaped frame, adding a modern twist to its classic inspiration. The 36mm case exhibits multiple layers of depth, with a brushed steel rehaut, an anthracite grey hour track, and a vertically brushed center. Notable design details include the blue-painted seconds hand and the NYC and Paris markings at the 6 o’clock position. The watch is completed with an 18mm Honey Brown leather strap, which softens the angular features of this watch. The Beaumarchais H02 is equipped with the ultra-thin Miyota 9039 automatic caliber, which offers a 42-hour power reserve and ensures the 36mm case remains a sleek 9.8mm thick. The stainless steel 316L case is durable and water-resistant up to 10 ATM while the watch is also equipped with a sapphire crystal, making...

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Hands-On With The Hermès Cut On The Calm Greek Island Of Tinos Fratello
Hermes May 29, 2024

Hands-On With The Hermès Cut On The Calm Greek Island Of Tinos

The Hermès Cut debuted in April at Watches and Wonders in Geneva. That’s why we were quite surprised when we received an invite from Hermès for a press trip organized around this new watch. Usually, trips like this are organized in advance to focus everyone’s attention on the novelty. It’s also common that the program […] Visit Hands-On With The Hermès Cut On The Calm Greek Island Of Tinos to read the full article.

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Highlights: Complicated Wristwatches at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Opera Two May 21, 2024

Highlights: Complicated Wristwatches at Phillips Hong Kong

Having covered the highlights from independent watchmakers and historical pocket watches at The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII on May 24 and 25, we now turn to complicated watches past and present. Amongst the historical are an Omega 30I tourbillon wristwatch tested at the Geneva, Neuchatel and Kew observatories, as well as a pair of chronographs with historical movements, an Excelsior Park with the Venus 179 split-seconds chronograph calibre and a Montblanc with the large, 17”’ Minerva monopoussoir chronograph movement. More recent is the Patek Philippe ref. 5059R London edition with applied Roman numerals and the Girard-Perregaux Opera Two, an ultra-complicated watch that’s a value-buy. The auction is scheduled for May 24 (lots 801-934) and May 25 (lots 935-1083), with online bidding and the catalogue available on Phillips.com. The Patek Philippe ref. 5059R made for the Grand Exhibition in London. 822 – Lange Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” Launched in 2021 to overwhelming demand, the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” was the A. Lange & Söhne’s second luminous digital-display watch after the “Phantom” of 2010. It was a limited edition of 200 watches and based on the second-generation Zeitwerk, which is visually almost identical to the original model but enhanced with several technical upgrades, including a longer, 72-hour power reserve. Like the earlier “Phantom”, the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” has a tinted sapphire dial that reveals the luminous numer...

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