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Results for Manufacture vs Etablisseur

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Manufacture vs Etablisseur

The structural difference between brands that make their own movements (manufactures) and those that buy them (etablisseurs).

First Look - The New Yema Superman Tourbillon Millésime CMM.31 Monochrome
Yema Superman Tourbillon Millésime CMM.31 Sep 5, 2025

First Look - The New Yema Superman Tourbillon Millésime CMM.31

Yema continues to expand its Millésime Editions with yet another statement piece. The new Superman Tourbillon Millésime CMM.31 takes the brand’s most iconic model, the Superman diver introduced in 1963, and reimagines it as a professional-grade tool watch equipped with a manufacture movement with a tourbillon regulator. Usually reserved for rather fragile dress watches, the […]

First Look - The New A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds with Salmon Dial Monochrome
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 5, 2025

First Look - The New A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds with Salmon Dial

The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds has been one of the Saxon manufacture‘s greatest expressions of chronometric watchmaking since it first appeared in 2016. The debut model, cased in platinum with a solid silver dial, was produced in a 100-piece edition and immediately stood out for its rigorous regulator-style display and its […]

First Look - The Lang & Heyne Hektor II, the Evolution of the Brand’s Elegant Sports Watch (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Lang & Heyne Hektor II Sep 2, 2025

First Look - The Lang & Heyne Hektor II, the Evolution of the Brand’s Elegant Sports Watch (Incl. Video)

A luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet from Dresden that looks like nothing else on the market, with a highly distinct personality, is how we could define the Hektor, the more casual, everyday-friendly offering by Dresden-based, high-end manufacture Lang & Heyne. The watch was first introduced in 2021 and marked a fundamental shift in […]

Roger Dubuis Impresses with the RD780 Flyback Chronograph SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey though Aug 20, 2025

Roger Dubuis Impresses with the RD780 Flyback Chronograph

Representing a new era for the Roger Dubuis manufacture, the Excalibur Spider Flyback is an aggressively styled, motorsports-themed chronograph – boasting the impressive, high-spec RD780 movement with some unusual tricks up its sleeve, including an inclined balance. While the Excalibur Spider Flyback harkens back to the brand’s early aspirations in terms of movement construction and ambition, it diverges entirely in style with its supercar-inspired lines. Limited to 88 examples in pink gold, it debuted at Monterey Car Week – Roger Dubuis is a partner of Lamborghini – this variant in pink gold and blackened titanium is a new iteration of a model originally available in carbon composite. The RD780 Initial Thoughts In its past life, Roger Dubuis raised a menagerie of ambitious – perhaps overambitious – movements. While the brand thinned the herd after the 2008 financial crisis, some of that spirit lives on inside the Excalibur Spider Flyback. It attempts the dial-movement integration and three dimensionality mastered by some independent watchmakers like Greubel Forsey, though the construction is still fairly traditional, leading to some lost opportunities. The calibre is impressive – especially for a brand owned by a luxury group – but could be better. For example, the minutes counter could be inclined by 12° to mirror the balance and the imitation barrel bridge to be more convincing in terms of style and symmetry. With its over-the-top-style, the Richard Mil...

Introducing - The Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance in Rose Gold and Black Guilloche Monochrome
Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Aug 15, 2025

Introducing - The Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance in Rose Gold and Black Guilloche

Following the recent Ice Blue and Manufacture editions in Green and Blue that Armin Strom presented after the series update in 2022, the brand now reveals a new chapter for its iconic complication, with a warm, higher-end version of the Mirrored Force Resonance, in rose gold with a handsome black guilloche dial. The resonance phenomenon […]

Introducing - The RGM Model 222-RR Ferguson Railroad Dial is a Genuine Slice of American Railroad History Monochrome
Anoma ly Aug 15, 2025

Introducing - The RGM Model 222-RR Ferguson Railroad Dial is a Genuine Slice of American Railroad History

As the only vertically integrated manufacture in the United States producing components, movements and guilloché dials, RGM is already an anomaly on the American watch scene. Founded by master watchmaker Roland G. Murphy in 1992 in Mount Joy, Pennsylvania, Murphy’s interest in early 20th-century American watchmaking history is reflected in the brand’s railroad watches. The […]

Reviewing The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo: A Bold & Beautiful Watch WatchAdvice
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Aug 8, 2025

Reviewing The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo: A Bold & Beautiful Watch

After visiting the Bvlgari High Horology Manufacture in Switzerland this year, it was about time we reviewed one of their iconic pieces, so I’ve chosen the Octo Finissimo to wear for the week. What We Love The unique design The feel on the wrist A piece you won’t see at watch get-togethers very often, if at all! What We Don’t Lack of fine adjustment on the bracelet No luminescence on the dial The flatness may not suit or wrist types and shapes Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value For Money: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 This year is probably one of the first times that I have really delved into the world of Bvlgari. Yes, I’ve tried on their watches and seen all the new releases, but I’ve not had the chance to dive into the brand – until this year. Luckily, we had the chance to visit the High Watchmaking Manufacture in Le Sentier back in April to see just one of the manufacturing arms of Bvlgari (they have three across Switzerland where different components are made), in this instance, as the name suggests, the Bvlgari Haute Horlogerie is where the most complicated watches are made, such as their ultra thin movements, minute repeaters, tourbillons, or in Bvlgari’s instance, all of these in one in some cases. A few images from our visit back in April, from the BVL 138 Calibre found in the Octo Finissimo (first two images), a tourbillon cage in the making, and two out of Bvlgari’s three highly skilled watchmakers who work on the high-...

First Look - Vintage Charm for the New Montblanc 1858 Automatic Date in Cupro Aluminium Monochrome
Montblanc 1858 Automatic Date Aug 7, 2025

First Look - Vintage Charm for the New Montblanc 1858 Automatic Date in Cupro Aluminium

Montblanc, the renowned producer of luxury fountain pens since 1906, entered the watchmaking arena in 1997. Keen to enhance its horological credentials, Montblanc acquired the famous Minerva manufacture in 2006. While the brand’s vintage-inspired 1858 line takes inspiration from Minerva’s historical watches and is named after the year the fabled manufacture was founded, it would […]

First Look - The Stunning, Contemporary Chopard L.U.C Quattro - Mark IV in Ice Blue & Platinum Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C Quattro – Mark Jul 28, 2025

First Look - The Stunning, Contemporary Chopard L.U.C Quattro - Mark IV in Ice Blue & Platinum

When Chopard launched the L.U.C Quattro in 2000, powered by the ultra-thin, manually wound Calibre 98.01-L, it announced itself as a serious force in the world of haute horlogerie. Calibre 98.01-L was the second movement developed entirely in-house by the Chopard Manufacture, following the groundbreaking Calibre 96.01-L, an innovative microrotor design created in collaboration with […]

First Look - A More Compact 40mm Version of the Norqain Independence Skeleton Monochrome
Norqain Independence Skeleton Norqain Jul 4, 2025

First Look - A More Compact 40mm Version of the Norqain Independence Skeleton

Norqain, the young, independent Swiss brand, produces contemporary, adventure-oriented watches. Many of the brand’s most popular models belong to the Independence collection, including the high-tech carbon fibre Wild One, conceived in collaboration with Jean-Claude Biver, the Skeleton Flyback Chrono featuring a proprietary manufacture calibre, and Norqain’s first skeletonised model. In line with current market watch […]

Introducing - The New Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Ice Blue Monochrome
Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Ice Jul 4, 2025

Introducing - The New Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Ice Blue

Since the debut of the Mirrored Force Resonance First Edition in 2022, which was an update of the revolutionary 2016 Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance, the brand has excited us with the Manufacture Editions in green and blue, and now introduces the Mirrored Force Resonance Ice Blue. This fresh interpretation combines the technical mastery of […]

Jaeger-LeCoultre Brings Reverso Watchmaking Workshop to Singapore SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Brings Reverso Watchmaking Workshop Jul 3, 2025

Jaeger-LeCoultre Brings Reverso Watchmaking Workshop to Singapore

Between July 10-20, 2025, Jaeger-LeCoultre is staging Atelier d’Antoine in Singapore. A nod to the founder of the brand, Antoine LeCoultre, Atelier d’Antoine is series of workshops that invites both beginners and seasoned enthusiasts to discover the world of the Reverso by working on the famous swivelling case. The workshops take place at the Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) boutique in Marina Bay Sands and will mirror the experience at the manufacture in Le Sentier. The event is open to be public, but registration is required. Atelier d’Antoine will feature two different programmes, Discovery Workshops and Masterclasses. Discovery Workshops take place in the context of the brand’s 2025 theme of the 1931 Polo Club, a tribute to the year the Reverso was launched, and will explore the Art Deco styling which defined the Reverso cases from the beginning. Participants will also learn how the iconic swivel mechanism works and learn about the evolution of the design. Modern-day Reverso watches, even though they are decades after the original, continue to echo the culture and tradition of the 1930s.  Masterclasses are the culmination of the event, where participants assemble a Reverso case by hand, putting the 50 components together themselves. The experience will provide an unparalleled insight into the construction of the seemingly simple Reverso case. And continuing with the confectionery theme established at Watches & Wonders (W&W;) this year, JLC is pairing the event with a cho...

First Look - The Parisian-Inspired Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Monochrome
Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Jul 1, 2025

First Look - The Parisian-Inspired Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph

Synonymous with luxury fountain pens, Montblanc expanded its portfolio to include watches in 1997, with aesthetics inspired by its famous Meisterstück pens. Intent on demonstrating its watchmaking credentials, Montblanc acquired the legendary Minerva manufacture and released the Nicolas Rieussec chronograph in 2007. An unusual chronograph with revolving registers and a fascinating history, the Nicolas Rieussec […]

First Look - The New Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue Monochrome
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Jun 25, 2025

First Look - The New Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue

When Serge Michel and Claude Greisler acquired Armin Strom, they took the bull by the horns. Without abandoning Mr Strom’s famous hand-skeletonised movements, the pair developed a full-scale vertical manufacture and successfully addressed the phenomenon of Mirrored Force Resonance in a wristwatch format. Another horological success story was the brand’s Gravity Equal Force watch of […]

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Teddy Baldassarre
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms [This feature Jun 17, 2025

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms

[This feature article has been updated to incorporate the newest models – including the new 42mm and 38mm sizes – in the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms collection as of 2025. Prices listed are current as of this article's posting but subject to change.] Founded in 1735 in Villeret, Switzerland, Blancpain is the oldest luxury watchmaker in the world, full stop. The 287-year-old manufacture, now headquartered in Le Brassus in the Swiss Vallée de Joux, has an uninterrupted history of producing horological complications but its most iconic timepiece in this modern era began its life as a tool watch for military divers in the (relatively) recent year of 1953. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, however, is not just any tool watch; it’s recognized as one of the foundational examples of the modern dive watch, helping to establish a template that many others would follow. Today, it’s the foundation for a vast and versatile collection within the Blancpain portfolio - despite the fact that the watch almost didn’t make it out of the 1970s.  DIVING INTO HISTORY The quest to make a watch water-resistant enough for diving was already well underway when Jean-Jacques Fiechter, then-CEO of Blancpain, began working on the watch that would become the Fifty Fathoms. Rolex had developed the water-resistant Oyster case in 1926, which paved the way for watches such as Panerai’s Radiomir in 1936, which combined a waterproof case with a luminous dial for the underwater missions of the Italian n...

Fiona Krüger Introduces the Forget Time Mystery Box Clock SJX Watches
Patek Philippe introduced Jun 9, 2025

Fiona Krüger Introduces the Forget Time Mystery Box Clock

When all eyes were focused on the novelties from the big brands at Watches & Wonders, designer Fiona Krüger was quietly previewing a mysterious clock that questions the nature of time itself. Part haute horlogerie, part objet d’art, the Forget Time clock was developed in collaboration with Denis Flageollet’s clockmaking workshop at the De Bethune manufacture. The concept for the Forget Time clock was inspired by the work of Dr Carlo Rovelli, an Italian theoretical physicist who has written several books about the nature of time. The clock and its movement exist concealed within a wooden cube that’s been embellished with wood marquetry. The mysterious looking box opens at the touch of a button to reveal the clock within. Initial thoughts We’re nearly halfway through 2025, and one of this year’s trends is becoming clear: clocks are having a moment. In just the past month, the Breguet Sympathique No. 1 sold for more than US$6 million, while the almost mythical Cartier Portico Clock No. 3, which recently emerged for the first time in decades, hammered for north of US$4 million. Even Patek Philippe introduced a million-dollar desk clock. And with a certain brand turning 250 years old this year, we might not be done with clocks yet. In this context, the launch of the Forget Time feels opportune, though Dr Rovelli would probably argue this feeling is due to the limits of my own human perception. Such is the inspiration for the clock, which was designed by Ms Kruger and...

Tudor GMT: The Definitive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor GMT May 7, 2025

Tudor GMT: The Definitive Guide

Before getting into the Tudor GMT guide, let's put the brand in context as it has experienced a modern renaissance since returning to the U.S. market with the Black Bay collection in 2012. No longer content as a mere sub-brand of big brother Rolex, Tudor has established itself as the de facto tool-watch manufacture in the $3,000 - $6,000 range, and the brand has done it through methodical progress within the Black Bay, Ranger, and Pelagos families. In 2016, Tudor introduced its first in-house caliber in the North Flag, and has since established its own movements throughout the portfolio, allowing Tudor to approach complications in its own way. Arguably, the most important of these complications is the GMT, which made its modern debut with the Black Bay GMT in 2018. But that’s not the first GMT from the brand.  In this guide, we’ll take a look back at what may be some forgotten GMT references from Tudor, and make our way through the now expansive modern stable of watches boasting the reference today. A GMT is likely the most most requested feature when it comes to new Tudor watches, and lately, the brand has been particularly in tune with those demands - to the point where it’s safe to say that we’re spoiled for choice these days. That’s not to say that there aren’t a few expressions of this complication that we’d still like to see, and I’ll outline some of those in closing.  The GMT complication is a foundational part of the Rolex identity, with Tudor'...

Louis Vuitton Goes to Space with the Tambour Taiko Galactique SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Goes Apr 30, 2025

Louis Vuitton Goes to Space with the Tambour Taiko Galactique

After voyages through the cultures of Europe, China, and Japan, Louis Vuitton sets course beyond the terrestrial realm. The Tambour Taiko Galactique is a minute repeater with automata depicting an astronaut on the Moon. With its newest creation, Louis Vuitton once again marries artisanal decoration with high-end mechanics – all accomplished in-house at its manufacture in Geneva, La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). Initial thoughts For several years now, Louis Vuitton has endeavoured to preserve and perpetuate traditional watchmaking and related crafts. From the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives to its collaborations with independent watchmakers, and the massive, nine-figure investment in its Geneva manufactures and the vertical integration of metiers d’art, Louis Vuitton is a large luxury brand, the world’s biggest in fact, but still remains in touch with artisanal horology.  The latest launch from the French marque is a minute repeater that defies traditional dogma. With the Galactique, Louis Vuitton pays tribute to both the space age and classic watchmaking by dressing an otherwise traditional complication in a space-themed attire. It is literally a “Moonwatch”, but of another type.  The lunar-centric watch is appealing, a little whimsical, and well-executed, with consistent design choices unifying the case and dial. The only decidedly classic element is the movement that is visible through the case back.  An artful dial The centrepiece of the Gala...

Hands-On Impressions of the Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Worn & Wound
Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik Apr 29, 2025

Hands-On Impressions of the Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer

Nomos is always a safe bet when someone who isn’t very into watches but is perhaps interested in dabbling is looking for a recommendation. That is not to say that those of us who are very into watches don’t appreciate them either. A darling of watch enthusiasts, the Glashütte manufacture manages to package watch nerdery into easy-to-digest, colorful, modern morsels. But, and I say this only as an adoring fan (my first manufacture watch was a Nomos I still own), in the last few years, their novelties have felt mostly iterative, focusing on colors and sizes (and don’t get me started on calling a manual watch watch the Minimatik – what does -matik mean if not automatic?!). Thankfully, they broke this trend with the Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer (Club Worldtimer from here out), which was easily a favorite from this year’s Watches & Wonders. Typically, with a hands-on article, I would start with the watch’s case or dial, but the thing that stood out most to me about the Club Worldtimer was the quality of the click. Up, at 2 p.m. on the case, is a single pump-pusher that is used to jump the hour hand one hour forward and progress the city ring accordingly. I don’t know how many pushers I’ve pushed since I’ve gotten into watches, which, mind you, was when I was a child, but this was one of, if not the best, feeling pushers I’ve encountered. It has a perfect, crisp action that is reflected in a snappy and satisfying jump of the hour hand. To ...

Introducing: The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar Limited Edition Fratello
Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar Apr 28, 2025

Introducing: The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar Limited Edition

Montblanc began making watches in 1997, but in reality, the brand’s watchmaking history runs a lot deeper. In 2007, the noted penmaker purchased Minerva, a revered Swiss manufacture founded in 1857. Since then, complicated pieces have carried the famous name on the movement and, at times, on the dial. Today’s 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar Limited […] Visit Introducing: The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar Limited Edition to read the full article.

The Best Grand Seiko Dials Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Dials If there’s one Apr 25, 2025

The Best Grand Seiko Dials

If there’s one thing Grand Seiko is known for, it is its textured dials….and Spring Drive…and Zaratsu polishing... Okay, one of the things Grand Seiko is known for is its textured dials. Often inspired by the beauty of the natural landscape surrounding Grand Seiko's manufacture in Japan, these dials are now often imitated but never truly replicated. We asked our editorial team here at Teddy to choose their favorite GS dial and, unsurprisingly, we got some really stunning picks here. So, without further ado, here are our Editors’ Picks for favorite Grand Seiko dials. Bilal Khan: SBGA011/SBGA211 "Snowflake" The Grand Seiko SBGA211 (originally the SBGA011), aka the Snowflake, is where it all began. Back in 2004, the watchmakers at the dial workshop in the Shinshu watch studio were given a novel task: create a dial that would capture the beauty of the natural surroundings of where the Spring Drive movement was born. The answer was in front of their eyes when they gazed at the snow-capped mountains that commanded their views for half the year. Creating this dial was a challenge but they found inspiration from an old 56GS watch dating back to 1971, which had a texture similar to what the team wanted to achieve. It took some trial and error but they found success through a silver plating method that would go on to birth the now-iconic "Snowflake" dial. It might look somewhat demure and less dramatic than more recent textured dials, but this is the quintessential Grand Sei...