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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Audemars Piguet Upgrades the Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Upgrades Feb 4, 2026

Audemars Piguet Upgrades the Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm

Audemars Piguet (AP) updates the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 38 mm with a new manufacture calibre, sapphire display back, while slightly tweaking the iconic design – and retaining the price of its predecessor. The new cal. 6401 comes with welcome quality-of-life improvements such as a longer power reserve and instantaneous date without tradeoffs in wearability, beat rate, or even cost, making this compact chronograph one of the most sensible and compelling offerings in the Royal Oak line. Initial Thoughts AP debuted the first Royal Oak chronograph in 1997 and it was powered by the Frederic Piguet cal. 1185, a landmark movement for automatic chronograph design. Now, nearly three decades later, AP is a true industrialised manufacture, and the cal. 1185 has been replaced with the new cal. 6401, a modern movement that with meaningful upgrades under the hood. This also comes with some minute tweaks to the dial and a crowd pleasing display case back, while the case and bracelet remain as excellent as always. Laudably, this comes without a significant price increase, with the new Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm in steel costing only 3.6% more than its predecessor. New Engine AP’s new cal. 6401 is a solidly-spec’ed movement despite being small and thin for a modern chronograph. It’s wide and taller than the Frederic Piguet cal. 1185 but only slightly. It is 27 mm in diameter (up from 26.2 mm) and 5.7 mm tall (up from 5.5 mm) though even with the addition of a sapphire ...

First Look – The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Titanium, Now In Ruby Red Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Titanium Now Feb 4, 2026

First Look – The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Titanium, Now In Ruby Red

Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas luxury sports watch family is now in its third generation, but its roots trace back to the 222 model of 1977. A well-represented collection with complications and straightforward time-and-date models, the Overseas is widely acclaimed for its attractive design, high-end finishings, in-house movements and versatility. In 2019, a tourbillon was added to […]

The Dawn of Heuer Dive Watches: How A House of Chronographs Saved Itself By Embracing The Depths Worn & Wound
Piaget Feb 3, 2026

The Dawn of Heuer Dive Watches: How A House of Chronographs Saved Itself By Embracing The Depths

Few other watchmakers enjoyed as much success and cachet as Heuer, especially during the fervent 1960s and 1970s. Not only had it launched one of the world’s first automatic chronographs, but it pushed the envelope on modern design with midcentury-cool chronographs like the uniquely square Monaco. Heuer was riding high on the glamor of Grand Prix: the Heuer shield was as indelible to the backdrops of Monza and Le Mans as Ferrari, Porsche, and McLaren themselves as the official timekeeper of Formula One.  But, inevitably, the quartz revolution came for Heuer. Jack Heuer was the third-generation CEO of the company that bore his name, and he had been a savvy marketer, personally hawking chronographs to drivers like Jo Siffert and Nikki Lauda. By the 1980s, however, he found himself backed into a corner, and in 1982, he was forced to sell the company to Piaget and Lemania-a humiliating low point in his life, as he recounted in his autobiography.  Yet, before he departed, he gave Heuer one saving grace. In 1979, he commissioned Heuer’s first dive watch, the Professional Series. At a trade show Jack had overheard a brief conversation about the unreliability of existing dive watches, and he aimed to emulate Rolex’s success with the Submariner and Sea-Dweller. (Incidentally, Rolex owned half of Heuer’s stock market shares, and nearly took over the company around this time.)  Photo by Blake Rong Heuer had spent the decade building an electronic timing division, which b...

Introducing: The Sleek New Audemars Piguet Neo Frame Jumping Hour Fratello
Audemars Piguet Neo Frame Jumping Hour Feb 3, 2026

Introducing: The Sleek New Audemars Piguet Neo Frame Jumping Hour

Audemars Piguet is releasing a host of new models today, which we’re covering here on Fratello. I was quite happy to see this specific release article appear in my schedule. Among several rather impressive releases, this one leans most heavily on design, which is my jam. Meet the Audemars Piguet Neo Frame Jumping Hour. This […] Visit Introducing: The Sleek New Audemars Piguet Neo Frame Jumping Hour to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Angular Papar Cenote Titanium + Blue And Rose Gold Titanium Fratello
Feb 2, 2026

Hands-On With The Angular Papar Cenote Titanium + Blue And Rose Gold Titanium

You’ve got to hand it to Papar Watch Co.; the young American brand certainly has a unique way of doing things. It all started with the radically brutalist Anillo GMT, and now the Cenote debuts. The Cenote Titanium + Blue and Rose Gold Titanium are dive watches with a design that builds on the angular, […] Visit Hands-On With The Angular Papar Cenote Titanium + Blue And Rose Gold Titanium to read the full article.

First Look – The Atelier Wen Millesime 2025 Perception with Pietersite Dial Monochrome
Atelier Wen Jan 28, 2026

First Look – The Atelier Wen Millesime 2025 Perception with Pietersite Dial

Since its founding, Atelier Wen has positioned itself as a link between contemporary watchmaking and Chinese cultural heritage. Created by Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron, the brand has steadily built its own design identity, drawing from architecture, traditional crafts and modern manufacturing. The Perception collection, its integrated-bracelet sports watch, has become the core expression.  Introduced […]

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Review: Breaking Down the 20th Anniversar Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Jan 27, 2026

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Review: Breaking Down the 20th Anniversar

The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean has represented a sweet spot in the now-sprawling Seamaster collection, a rarely achieved intersection between extra-rugged build and unapologetically luxurious design. The latest revamp of the two-decade-old series, which launched in late 2025, doubles down on both while also striving for new levels of comfort and wearability. Here’s a closer look, starting at the beginning.  [toc-section heading="Origins of the Seamaster Collection"] Omega began making watches in 1848 (originally as La Genérale Watch Co.) and for its milestone 100th anniversary, a few years after the end of World War II, the brand founded by watchmaker Louis Brandt launched the first watch by the name of Seamaster. Not really a “dive watch” as we’d define that term today, it was marketed as a watch for “town, sea, and country”  - i.e., a gentleman’s dress watch that just happened to be more waterproof than any other such timepiece of that era. (Omega had been dabbling in making wristwatches water resistant for more than a decade at that point, having released the Marine, below, an early divers’ watch with a sealed, rectangular double-case design, as early as 1932.) What distinguished the Seamaster from its contemporaries was its adoption of an innovative, O-ring-gasket device that sealed the crown into the case to prevent moisture from entering.  Omega had developed that design for the tool watches it made for the British armed forces during wartime,...

Hands-On With The Striking Titanium Toledano & Chan B/1.3r Fratello
Jan 26, 2026

Hands-On With The Striking Titanium Toledano & Chan B/1.3r

Sometimes you run into watches that are in a different category of appreciation. The moment I saw the inaugural Toledano & Chan B/1 with the lapis lazuli dial, it triggered my appreciation for design, not only in watches but also in general. The beautifully sculpted case, wonderfully detailed bracelet, and stunning lapis lazuli dial made […] Visit Hands-On With The Striking Titanium Toledano & Chan B/1.3r to read the full article.

First Look – The New Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton Monochrome
Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton Jan 21, 2026

First Look – The New Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton

This week, alongside the monochromatic Chronograph in Black Ceramic and the Skeleton Black Ceramic & Gold, which added an interplay of black ceramic and gold-toned mechanics to the Skyline collection, Zenith revealed the Defy Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton. This powerful new reference pushed the collection’s architectural design language into the realm of high luxury and complication. […]

First Look – The Dazzling Bulgari Tubogas Manchette Monochrome
Bulgari Tubogas Manchette Celebrating Jan 19, 2026

First Look – The Dazzling Bulgari Tubogas Manchette

Celebrating its original vocation as a Roman goldsmith and creator of fabulous high jewellery pieces glowing with brightly coloured gemstones, Bulgari kicks off LVMH Watch Week with a dazzling Tubogas Manchette in yellow gold. Fitted with Bulgari’s recently unveiled Lady Solotempo BVS 100 automatic movement, the gorgeous cuff marries the brand’s iconic Tubogas design to […]

In-Depth – The Louis Vuitton Escale Collection Expands with World Time, Twin Zone and Repeater Complications Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Escale Collection Expands Jan 19, 2026

In-Depth – The Louis Vuitton Escale Collection Expands with World Time, Twin Zone and Repeater Complications

The Escale Collection is a classic of Louis Vuitton with a distinctive design, strongly inspired by the idea of travel and by LV Trunks. The Escale collection was mostly known for its world timers with handsome dials decorated with micro-painting and flags, or dual-time displays. Which makes sense, considering the name of the watch, which […]

Introducing: New Additions To The Hublot Big Bang Lineup - Samuel Ross And Coal Blue Fratello
Hublot Big Bang Lineup - Jan 19, 2026

Introducing: New Additions To The Hublot Big Bang Lineup - Samuel Ross And Coal Blue

Although the Classic Fusion collection represents Hublot’s earliest heritage, the Big Bang is arguably the brand’s bread and butter. Today, we see several new additions to the lineup. The novelties range from the design-heavy Big Bang Unicorn SR_A to the new pastel-colored Coal Blue models. In this release overview, we’ll briefly cover some of the […] Visit Introducing: New Additions To The Hublot Big Bang Lineup - Samuel Ross And Coal Blue to read the full article.

Hublot Upgrades The Big Bang Original Collection To Unico Status Fratello
Hublot Upgrades Jan 19, 2026

Hublot Upgrades The Big Bang Original Collection To Unico Status

Hublot celebrated 20 years of the Big Bang last year with a limited-edition Big Bang 20th Anniversary edition. These LEs took their design language from the original models and paired it with Unico in-house calibers. It was only a matter of time before we would see this sensible pairing in a regular-production model, and here […] Visit Hublot Upgrades The Big Bang Original Collection To Unico Status to read the full article.

Introducing – The VPC Type 39VM, Claimed to be the Thinnest 200m Automatic Dive Watch Monochrome
VPC Type 39VM Claimed Jan 15, 2026

Introducing – The VPC Type 39VM, Claimed to be the Thinnest 200m Automatic Dive Watch

Young, independent Dutch brand VPC (Venustas Per Constantiam) returns with its next release, the Type 39VM, following its debut model, the Type 37HW. Founded by Thomas van Straaten, watch journalist at Fratello, collector, and now the founder of the design-driven microbrand, VPC was created around a beauty-through-restraint approach. After setting a standard with its hand-wound […]