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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Atmos Infinite SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces May 16, 2022

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Atmos Infinite

Although Jaeger-LeCoultre has launched about a dozen new wristwatch models to date in 2022, the standout new timepieces from the Le Sentier manufacture are a pair of clocks that share the same aesthetic. One is the very expensive Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590, and the other is the far more affordable Atmos Infinite. Most Atmos clocks are defined by their boxy exterior and classical dial, with the notable exceptions being those designed by collaborations like Apple designer Marc Newson and Hermes. Reminiscent of Mr Newson’s Atmos designs, the Infinite features a clean, monochromatic movement in a seamless glass cylinder, instantly setting it apart from the rest of the Atmos lineup. Initial thoughts Sitting alongside the Patek Philippe Dome Clock as an iconic timepiece in the clock category, the Atmos is one of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s best products in concept and execution. It’s powered by a simple yet ingenious mechanism that’s so effective it remains unchanged after almost a century. And it is offered in a surprisingly wide range of designs, many of which are affordable, with the entry-level model starting at just over US$7,000. The Atmos Transparente, a more typical example of the clock with its four-sided glass box But most Atmos designs feel dated, being more or less unchanged since the 1950s. The exceptions were the limited editions by the likes of Mr Newson and Hermes, which were all much more expensive. The most recent Atmos Newson, for instance, retails for...

VIDEO: A week on the wrist with the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 Last May 4, 2022

VIDEO: A week on the wrist with the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921

Last year, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 collection turned 100 years old. But when a design remains incredibly compelling for over a century, you’ve got to admit that it goes beyond mere stylistic whims as Andrew discovered when he tried it out for a week on the wrist. There’s no denying that Vacheron Constantin … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A week on the wrist with the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Swatch Drops the Bioceramic MoonSwatch Collab with Omega SJX Watches
Omega Perhaps Mar 24, 2022

Swatch Drops the Bioceramic MoonSwatch Collab with Omega

Perhaps the most surprising launch of the year so far, the Bioceramic MoonSwatch is a collaboration between Swatch and the maker of the Speedmaster Professional. The MoonSwatch is essentially Moonwatch “lite” – it has all the key details such as lyre lugs and a Velcro strap, but a quartz movement and small price tag. And the MoonSwatch is next level in terms of range. Whereas the original Moonwatch is mostly black, Swatch offers almost dozen variants of the MoonSwatch, each dedicated to the most significant bodies of the solar system, such as the Sun, Moon, and Mars. The MoonSwatch “Mission to Mars”, a tribute to the Speedmaster “Alaska Project” but with the entire case in bright red ceramic Initial thoughts The MoonSwatch is an exemplary crossover because its encapsulates the specialties of each brand. Combining the quintessential cheerful style of Swatch with Omega’s iconic Moonwatch results in a fun, lighthearted watch that’s very affordable. But it’s also a shocking product because the two brands are poles apart in terms of positioning and pricing. Put simply, an Omega strap costs more than the average Swatch watch. Swatch is clearly the winner. It’s an especially shrewd move for the maker of plastic watches, since some of the prestige and historical significance of Omega rubs off onto Swatch. As for Omega, it’s a purposeful act of brand dilution, no doubt in the hope that it brings the brand to a new audience that will aspire to own the real d...

Blancpain Introduces the Air Command Chronograph in Titanium SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces Nov 15, 2021

Blancpain Introduces the Air Command Chronograph in Titanium

Resurrected two years ago with modern materials and tech, the Air Command was originally a 1950s wristwatch reputedly created for the US Air Force that was never serially produced, resulting in just a dozen examples made. With the success of the vintage-looking 2019 remake, Blancpain has followed up with the regular-production Air Command Flyback Chronograph in a modern palette, with a blue dial and a case in either titanium or red gold. Initial thoughts The Air Command reissue of 2019 was a hit. The 500-piece run sold out quickly and and now sells for slightly above the original retail price – a feat for a modern-day Blancpain. Unsurprisingly, Blancpain has stuck to the same successful formula with the new Air Command, which retains the same case and design, but manages to look quite different (and will no doubt feel different thanks to the case metal). The dial is finished with a “sunburst” brushing that gives it a metallic glint With its livelier colours, the latest version is arguably more striking than the original remake. At the same time, it avoids the pitfall of trying too hard to look vintage, as was arguably the case with the original limited edition. And the gold version makes sense as well. The Air Command is clearly a luxury-sports watch rather than a military-issue instrument, so 18k gold feels right at home with the design. For those who find titanium too dull or too affordable, the gold version is certainly the one to go for. Notably, Blancpain has...

MICRO MONDAYS: Typsim Watches go all in on vintage with the 200M & 200M-C Time+Tide
Oct 25, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Typsim Watches go all in on vintage with the 200M & 200M-C

How do you make enough noise in the large microbrand watch scene to be noticed? Do you ride a wave, presenting a design collectors have seen countless times? Do you offer dirt-cheap pricing that leaves many of us wondering how long you’ll even be here? Or do you make something so “unique”, no one would … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Typsim Watches go all in on vintage with the 200M & 200M-C appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Complete Overview Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox Collection - Reprise Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox Collection – Reprise Jun 12, 2021

Complete Overview Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox Collection - Reprise

Aston Martin was originally partnered with Jaeger-LeCoultre for 12 years before moving on to first Richard Mille then TAG Heuer and finally Girard-Perregaux. During that dozen years, the JLC Amvox line produced some very interesting timepieces. Here, Elizabeth Doerr provides background to the the sporty Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox line and lists off every single creation introduced in it during that time.

5 Of The Best Watches From Bulgari At The 2021 LVMH Watch Week Quill & Pad
Bulgari Feb 22, 2021

5 Of The Best Watches From Bulgari At The 2021 LVMH Watch Week

When Italians make Swiss watches, we are always in for a treat. Martin Green thinks this has something to do with many Italians being very passionate about mechanics and design being something of a religion there. Bulgari has been successfully blending these two main elements for decades, and at the virtual 2021 LVMH Watch Week the brand showed that it continues to excel at it. Here, Martin highlights five of his favorite new watches from the digital fair.

Complexity made simple with the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 Boutique Edition Time+Tide
IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 Nov 26, 2020

Complexity made simple with the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 Boutique Edition

Just as IWC overhauled their Pilot’s collection in 2019, this year is all about the Portugieser collection for the Schaffhausen-based brand. While there are more than a dozen new references within the 2020 lineup, there’s one particular piece that not only captures the new direction of the collection but also encapsulates what IWC does so … ContinuedThe post Complexity made simple with the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 Boutique Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGP005  is a blue/black abyss for the wrist Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGP005 Sep 6, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGP005 is a blue/black abyss for the wrist

For some, the idea of ‘luxury quartz’ is a complete contradiction. Since the decimation of the mechanical watch industry upon its widespread release, quartz movement technology has never shaken off that stigma that draws dirty looks from watch enthusiasts around the world. The truth is not as simple as a hero and villain, however. Once … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGP005 is a blue/black abyss for the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

We filmed behind-the-scenes at Geneva Watch Days to show you what a watch fair is like in 2020 (it’s as weird as the year itself) Time+Tide
Aug 31, 2020

We filmed behind-the-scenes at Geneva Watch Days to show you what a watch fair is like in 2020 (it’s as weird as the year itself)

As Georges Kern, Patrick Pruniaux, Jean-Christophe Babin and a dozen-or-so other watch CEOs stood on stage in a moment of solidarity to pose for a group photo, behind them a big Geneva Watch Days sign went largely unnoticed, obstructed from view by the hussy of wrist-displaying head hunchos. Some smiled, some straightened their ties and … ContinuedThe post We filmed behind-the-scenes at Geneva Watch Days to show you what a watch fair is like in 2020 (it’s as weird as the year itself) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Complete Overview Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox Line - Reprise Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox Line – Reprise Jul 18, 2020

Complete Overview Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox Line - Reprise

Aston Martin was originally partnered with Jaeger-LeCoultre for 12 years before moving on to first Richard Mille then TAG Heuer. During that dozen years, the JLC Amvox line produced some very interesting timepieces. Here, Elizabeth Doerr provides background to the the sporty Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox line and lists off every single creation introduced in it during that time.

Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat 80 Hours SLGH002 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Mar 5, 2020

Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat 80 Hours SLGH002

Of the half-dozen commemorative editions Grand Seiko is rolling out to mark its 60th anniversary, one watch is significant over all the others, because it has a brand-new calibre that represents the first of a new generation of movements. A complete rethink of the 9S family of movements – first unveiled 22 years ago – the 9SA5 makes its debut in the Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Limited Edition (ref. SLGH002). While the movement is cutting-edge for the brand, the design of the SLGH002 is a throwback to vintage Grand Seiko – the dial emulates the aesthetics of the first Grand Seiko 3180 of 1960 but with a modern twist, namely with widened hands and hour markers. As a result, the dial is quintessential Grand Seiko, having a sculptural quality thanks to the broad dauphine hands and substantial, applied 18k gold hour markers. Even the frame around the date window is 18k gold. The star above six o’clock indicates “SD”, or “special dial”, which means gold hour markers (and sometimes a gold dial) Made of 18k yellow gold, the case has a diameter of 40 mm and a thickness of 11.7 mm. Most of its surfaces have a brushed finish, interspersed with wide, faceted bevels that are mirror polished. The watch is notably thin for a self-winding Grand Seiko – the typical high-frequency Grand Seiko has a case just over 13 mm high – as a result of the new 9SA5 movement, which is the work of the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi (formerly known as the Shizukuishi Watch Studio). ...

Editorial: Movement Finishing in the Instagram Age SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi about Sep 10, 2019

Editorial: Movement Finishing in the Instagram Age

Thanks to Instagram, and social media in general, fine watchmaking has become something of a spectator sport. Roger W. Smith’s YouTube channel has over 10,000 subscribers, and though he produces only about a dozen watches per year, his video about polishing the flanks of pinions has been viewed more than 115,000 times. Akrivia, which produces watches on a similar scale, has almost 40,000 followers on Instagram and their videos, which focus on hand finishing techniques, get thousands of views and likes. These numbers suggest a huge appetite among watch enthusiasts for information about movement construction and finishing. Yet while collectors now have unprecedented access to this kind of information, finishing is a highly nuanced topic that doesn’t readily lend itself to the brevity of an Instagram comment. This can make it difficult, especially for new collectors, to understand how finishing fits into the overall value proposition offered by a fine watch. What is finishing and why it matters Finishing is the process by which the components of a watch movement are treated between fabrication and final assembly. At lower price points, finishing is done by machine. At higher price points, it is often applied by hand. The results of good hand finishing are unmistakable, often cited as the main reason for drastic price differences between watches. I asked Akrivia founder Rexhep Rexhepi about the value of hand finishing, and he replied, “Let’s face facts – the differe...

Ep. #52 - The Two Broke Watch Snobs 1 Year Anniversary Special Two Broke Watch Snobs
Oct 16, 2017

Ep. #52 - The Two Broke Watch Snobs 1 Year Anniversary Special

Special guests Terry from ToxicNATOs joins the Two Broke Watch Snobs to celebrate the TBWS One Year Anniversary! Unscripted watch talk, ballbusting, and horological shenanigans abounds as the group sits down to reminisce on the TBWS and how ToxicNATOs have evolved over the past year. Also be warned, unscripted means unscripted and today's episode gets pretty down, dirty, and non-PC. Brace your shit, #watchfam.

Hands-on - The Tudor Northflag, an Improved Successor to the North Flag, now with GMT Function Monochrome
Tudor Northflag Yesterday

Hands-on - The Tudor Northflag, an Improved Successor to the North Flag, now with GMT Function

First presented in 2015, the Tudor North Flag was an important watch for the brand. It introduced a new design, drawing on the angular, exploration-inspired character of the 1970s Ranger II, but its real significance was mechanical: it was the first Tudor fitted with a manufacture movement (calibre MT5621), itself the first Tudor movement visible […]

First Look - Singer Launches a New Collection with the 1970 DualTrack Monochrome
Singer 2 days ago

First Look - Singer Launches a New Collection with the 1970 DualTrack

The high-end independent watch brand born from a passion for 1960s-1970s automotive design, Singer Reimagined was founded in 2017 by Rob Dickinson (of Singer Vehicle Design) and watch designer Marco Borraccino with motors produced by master watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (Agenhor). Departing from its lineup of track-ready chronographs, Singer introduced the DualTrack, a GMT with an […]

No Rush, Here’s The Anoma A1 Core Collection In Abyss Blue And Stone Gray Fratello
Anoma A1 Core Collection 2 days ago

No Rush, Here’s The Anoma A1 Core Collection In Abyss Blue And Stone Gray

Microbrand watch releases can often be both fun and frustrating at the same time. You get all excited about the original design, the attractive price point, and the brand’s sympathetic founder. However, if there’s only a limited number of pieces available or a tight order window, you need to decide quickly, and that’s not always […] Visit No Rush, Here’s The Anoma A1 Core Collection In Abyss Blue And Stone Gray to read the full article.

Has Longines Mastered The Monopusher Chronograph? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Longines Mastered 2 days ago

Has Longines Mastered The Monopusher Chronograph? (Hands-On)

Longines has put a new spin on another classic complication, but does the function translate to form? Let’s find out! What We Love: Modernised take on heritage design Big but easy to wear Ludicrous value proposition What We Don’t: Dial feels slightly shrunken Unusual clasp system Is a manual wind chrono still the way to go? Overall Rating: 9.25/10 Value for Money: 10/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Watch brands pay tribute to their heritage in different ways. Some do this by way of lineage, where iconic aspects of their design or craftsmanship are carried forward into the modern day. Others do this through innovation, respecting their history of disruptive advancement by introducing new technical breakthroughs with every consecutive piece. However, esteemed watch brand Longines takes a different route: reviving and overhauling watches from its exhaustive archives. Even a slight glance towards its catalogue is indicative of such dedication. Almost all of Longines’ watches, through both design and engineering, uphold what is nearing two centuries’ worth of tradition. But for as often as it loves to resurrect archival pieces, it does so in a way that feels organic to the brand’s longstanding philosophies. Earlier this year, that ethos manifested itself in the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve, a reintroduction of a timepiece from the lesser-known horological history of the 1950s. This time, they’ve gone even further back to the early...

Fortis, Berneron, and More Join Watches and Wonders 2027, Now Featuring 75 Brands Worn & Wound
Porsche Design 2 days ago

Fortis, Berneron, and More Join Watches and Wonders 2027, Now Featuring 75 Brands

Watches and Wonders 2027 is still months away, but the specifics of the event are beginning to come into clearer focus. News broke this morning that the roster of brands has grown once again, and now numbers 75 in total. It had previously been announced that Breitling (along with their House of Brands cohorts Universal Geneve and Gallet) would be joining the fair, and this morning’s news sees several additional brands joining them that sit across a variety of price points and segments of the industry (including a brand that has attended its fair share of Windup Watch Fairs).  The headline grabbers in terms of participation are likely Berneron and Porsche Design. Porsche Design has grown considerably in recent years with an aggressive release schedule iterating on their iconic Chronograph 1 design. Berneron is arguably the hottest independent brand at the moment, and has been the subject of much discussion just in the last weeks following the public sale of a Mirage for over $500,000 on Loupe This (the retail price sits around CHF 51,000).  While those two brands likely have the highest profiles of the newcomers to Watches & Wonders, there are several others that I think are interesting from an enthusiast and business point of view. Kerbedanz, a Swiss brand that for much of its 15 year history has made custom watches exclusively for private clients, has been making a concerted effort to get their name into the minds of watch lovers this year, exhibiting at Geneva Watch ...

Mechanical Resurrection: The New Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Chronograph Fratello
Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Chronograph 3 days ago

Mechanical Resurrection: The New Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Chronograph

In a recent discussion I had with someone about Christopher Ward, the question of why the brand doesn’t have any mechanical chronographs in its collection came up. This stands out, as watch enthusiasts tend to love such pieces. But the English brand now has a new series of mechanical chronographs for the enthusiasts. The C63 […] Visit Mechanical Resurrection: The New Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Chronograph to read the full article.

Grand Seiko Revives the 9S Arabic Numeral Dial SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Revives 3 days ago

Grand Seiko Revives the 9S Arabic Numeral Dial

Grand Seiko is marking 25 years of its hand-wind 9S movement with the Elegance Collection SBGW325, a throwback to one of the earliest Grand Seiko limited edition models. The SBGW325 is modelled on the SBGW003, a 2001 limited edition that debuted the first-ever manual-wind 9S movement. Today’s SBGW325 is equipped with the latest generation of the same movement family, the 9S64, while reviving the distinctive dial design sporting raised Arabic numerals. Initial thoughts Grand Seiko rolls out limited edition on a regular basis, so the various editions tend to blend into each other. The SBGW325 manages to stand out because the dial design is distinctive; Grand Seiko has no employed this design on another model aside from the original of 2001. For that reason alone this would be one of the most appealing Grand Seiko limited editions in recent memory. But it’s not just the styling. Although the design is unique in today’s catalogue, the SBGW325 is relatively no frills in terms of movement and materials. The case is compact and steel, while the movement is the time-only 9S64, which makes this quite affordable, further adding to its appeal. Arabic numerals The original SBGW003 combined a cream dial with raised gold Arabic numerals and blued steel hands, resulting in an unusual look for Grand Seiko even today. The new SBGW325 preserves the design but iterates on the colours: the dial is matte blue with raised silver numerals, while the “GS” emblem and seconds hand are gil...