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Results for Manufacture vs Etablisseur

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Manufacture vs Etablisseur

The structural difference between brands that make their own movements (manufactures) and those that buy them (etablisseurs).
Business News: Laurent Perves Appointed CEO of Vacheron Constantin SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin As Vacheron Constantin gears Nov 29, 2024

Business News: Laurent Perves Appointed CEO of Vacheron Constantin

As Vacheron Constantin gears up to mark its 270th anniversary in 2025, the brand has just announced Laurent Perves will assume the top job at the start of the new year. Having been the Chief Commercial Officer since 2022, Mr Perves succeeds Louis Ferla, who is now in charge of Cartier. Mr Perves is well positioned to lead the storied Geneva brand into its next chapter, having held management roles in the key departments of the manufacture, namely marketing, communications, and commercial. Although he began his career in fragrances, where he rose to senior roles in Proctor & Gamble, Mr Perves started in the watch industry a decade ago. He joined Audemars Piguet in 2014 as head of communications, before being tapped to become the chief marketing officer at Vacheron Constantin in 2016. Since 2022 he was the number two at Vacheron Constantin as chief commercial officer, where he oversaw the brand’s commercial strategy but also built relationships with key clients and collectors in general. Despite the high bar set by the Berkley pocket watch – the most complicated watch ever – Mr Perves and his team have put together an impressive lineup of products for the brand’s 270th anniversary, which will be debuted progressively over the next year.  

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Industry News – Opening of Applications for the Second Edition of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Nov 26, 2024

Industry News – Opening of Applications for the Second Edition of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives

In late 2022, luxury powerhouse Louis Vuitton announced a rather surprising but promising concept, the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. A biennial prize organized by its Swiss-based watch manufacture, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, its mission is “to recognize a passion for watchmaking savoir-faire, creativity, and innovation in the pursuit of excellence, […]

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Video – A Closer Look at the Edgy Zenith Defy Revival A3648, Rekindling that 1969 ‘Everything is Possible’ Spirit Monochrome
Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Rekindling Nov 18, 2024

Video – A Closer Look at the Edgy Zenith Defy Revival A3648, Rekindling that 1969 ‘Everything is Possible’ Spirit

The year 1969 proved to be pivotal for Zenith. The manufacture introduced the El Primero automatic chronograph, which would become one of the most influential movements ever made. Besides that monumental feat, it also launched the formidable Defy collection that year. This sporty series of watches had an unprecedented design, with an octagonal case topped […]

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Introducing – The Norqain Independence Skeleton 42mm, now in Grey Monochrome
Norqain Independence Skeleton 42mm now Oct 28, 2024

Introducing – The Norqain Independence Skeleton 42mm, now in Grey

Norqain’s Independence family is home to many of the brand’s most coveted models, including the recently released Independence Skeleton Chrono with a proprietary manufacture calibre developed with GMT. The Independence is also home to the robust carbon fibre Wild One, conceived with Jean-Claude Biver, as well as the brand’s first skeletonised model introduced in 2021. […]

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The Bell & Ross BR-X5 Gets the Iridescent Treatment Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross BR-X5 Gets Oct 14, 2024

The Bell & Ross BR-X5 Gets the Iridescent Treatment

Bell & Ross is expanding on their enthusiast focused BR-X5 with a boutique edition iridescent dial variant, housing their manufacture calibre BR-CAL.323. For those that aren’t already familiar with the BR-X5 launched in 2022, this is a relatively higher tier regular production watch compared to the rest of the Bell & Ross lineup – featuring a semi-skeletonized weight minimizing case that has been hollowed out on the sides, from the lugs and down through the crown guards. While the main features and aesthetic design of the watch have remained relatively untouched from the previous variants, the iridescent dial is the star of the show on this new reference, creating playful hue transitions from blue to green, with hints of purple. The color shifting is very similar to that seen on the shell of a beetle, or on mother of pearl dials, but in this instance the light effect isn’t naturally created, rather it’s a chemical creation derived from multiple thin layers of PVD coating.  Not only does the dial have a one of a kind manufacturing process, but the effect has been accentuated by overlaying it with a sunray effect. The overall vibe of what used to be a more serious, tool-like watch, is now toned down a touch to bring in some casual playfulness.  The BR-CAL.323 automatic movement beats at 28,800 VPH, and is holding a generous 70 hours of power reserve which makes the watch a great daily wear contender. The movement has also been designed to display a rather large pow...

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Exhibition: 30 Years of the Lange 1 in Singapore SJX Watches
Oct 11, 2024

Exhibition: 30 Years of the Lange 1 in Singapore

A. Lange & Söhne is marking the 30th anniversary of arguably its most famous wristwatch with an exhibition in Singapore. 30 Years of the Lange 1 will take place in ION Orchard October 24-29, 2024. Besides showcasing significant Lange 1 models, the exhibition also encompasses demonstrations by a master engraver from the Lange manufacture in Glashütte. The event is open to the public but registration is required. A cornerstone of the German brand since it was revived in 1994, the Lange 1 is defined by an orderly, yet asymmetrical dial with an outsized date and power reserve. The design instantly distinguished itself from practically everything else on the market at the time and became the “face” of the Lange 1. The exhibition will present the many variations of the Lange 1 introduced over the years, starting with the original yellow gold model of 1994. Also on show will be the 10-piece Lange 1 “25th Anniversary” series, as well as less common models like the Lange 1 “Luminous”, which is not part of the now-famous Lumen series and instead was originally conceived as a sporty Lange watch. Present daily at the exhibition will be an artisan from Lange’s engraving department, which is responsible for the hand-engraved balance cocks found in all Lange movements. Armed with a fine-tipped burin, the artisan will demonstrate the art of engraving, just as it is done at the manufacture in Glashütte. Finally, the exhibition will also debut video interviews of Lange owne...

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Frederique Constant Classic Date & Moonphase Review Teddy Baldassarre
Frederique Constant Sep 27, 2024

Frederique Constant Classic Date & Moonphase Review

Frederique Constant takes a consistent, evolutionary approach to the design language used in its Classic collection. Sometimes those evolutionary leaps are larger than others. This is certainly the case with two additions to the collection released earlier this year: the Manufacture Classic Date, and Classic Moonphase Date, which have undergone a series of both small and large changes that represent a marked maturity for the brand. The new watches will find themselves squarely in front of a new audience as a result, and bring a welcome set of options in the often neglected formal genre at a sub-$5,000 price point. In hand and on wrist, these watches bring a surprising level of sophistication thanks to a keen attention to detail. If this isn’t a brand you’ve taken seriously in the past, it might be time for a second look.  In an era dominated by sports watches and so-called GADA watches, it’s easy to forget just how essential a dedicated clean, classical, formal watch can be. They are easy watches to overlook, as their beauty lies in the small details rather than big, eye -catching flourishes, but with a little patience, these watches can be just as compelling as anything else out there. If the brand respects the process, that is. With minimal complications, scales, and bezels to work with, the design and execution of the few details that are present are paramount to evoking the necessary emotions. There is nothing to hide behind here. The odd shape or finish of an h...

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The Doxa Sub 300T Gets a Destro Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Doxa Sub 300T Gets Sep 17, 2024

The Doxa Sub 300T Gets a Destro Limited Edition

It’s kind of hard to believe, but in the long history of Doxa divers, they’ve never made a dive watch with a lefty crown. That’s a bit surprising only because we tend to associate Doxa with the manufacture of professional grade dive instruments in a way that few other watch brands can match, and certainly there are left handed pro divers out there who could have made use of a destro Doxa diver over the decades (say that five times fast…).  Well, it’s a nice time to be a lefty Doxa fan, as the brand has just announced the Doxa Sub 300T Professional Aristera, their first dive watch ever with a crown positioned on the left hand side. It’s a limited edition of 300 pieces, and it’s fitting that the first destro Doxa is a version of what most would consider their core, enthusiast focused diver.  Like other Sub 300Ts, this one is 42.5mm in stainless steel with a short 44.5mm lug to lug measurement. Of course we get the iconic orange dial (hence the “Professional” designation) as well as an aluminum bezel insert. It runs on a Sellita SW200-1 caliber with 38 hours of power reserve, and we can assume it’s been rotated and modified to accommodate the left hand crown position (the date remains at the 3:00 position).  As a left handed person, I’ve always been kind of fascinated with destro watches, even if I don’t personally see much utility in them. Like most southpaws, I wear my watch on my right wrist. And with a normal watch, the crown is positioned facin...

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Norqain Introduces Flagship Skeleton Flyback Chronograph SJX Watches
Longines both Sep 16, 2024

Norqain Introduces Flagship Skeleton Flyback Chronograph

The Independence Skeleton Chrono is the latest from Norqain, the maker of affordable sports watches. Available in stainless steel or DLC-coated titanium, the Independence Skeleton Chrono is equipped with a new movement, the “8K Manufacture Calibre (NK24/1)”. Developed in partnership with AMT, the NK24/1 is based on the architecture of the Sellita SW500 but upgraded in several ways, including a flyback function and a column wheel to replace the customary cam. Initial thoughts The Independence chronograph is now Norqain’s top-of-the-line offering, so it costs substantially more than the brand’s prior chronograph models. Still, the Independence arguably offers a similar value proposition as past Norqain models because while it’s more expensive, it is more watch. The case has more detail and the movement is more customised for the model. The NK24/1 is a new development but clearly based on the Sellita SW500, but with enough upgrades for the price point. However, the NK24/1 is still as thick as a Sellita SW500, so the Independence is chunky and almost 14 mm high. The Independence is priced at US$6,490 on a steel bracelet, and a bit more in titanium. The value proposition is good, but not quite great. While the execution of the Independence is as good as, or even a bit better, than many of its peers in the price segment, it can’t quite reach the value proposition of the leaders in the segment, namely Tudor and Longines, both of which enjoy economies of scale practica...

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First Look – The Sleek New Angelus Chronodate Titanium Magnetic Silver Edition Monochrome
Angelus Aug 31, 2024

First Look – The Sleek New Angelus Chronodate Titanium Magnetic Silver Edition

Following its revival in 2011, Angelus has focused on building an impressive series of purpose-built movements. In 2022, Angelus introduced the Chronodate with a bi-compax chronograph and pointer date combo. While the Chronodate references the brand’s 1942 model when Angelus was enjoying its heyday as a leading manufacture of chronographs, the reinterpretation is contemporary. For […]

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New: Armin Strom unveils the Dual Time GMT Resonance in 39mm Deployant
Armin Strom unveils Aug 31, 2024

New: Armin Strom unveils the Dual Time GMT Resonance in 39mm

Swiss independent watch brand Armin Strom celebrates the 15th anniversary of its fully-integrated Manufacture by reimagining its most historically significant innovation, the resonance complication, in an entirely new Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition. The new timepiece is presented in a hotly-anticipated 39-mm case size made in 18-karat white gold and limited to 25 pieces.

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First Look – Girard-Perregaux Updates Its Delectable Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Updates Aug 30, 2024

First Look – Girard-Perregaux Updates Its Delectable Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges

Inspired by a famous pocket watch made in 1889, Girard-Perregaux regularly plays around with its signature-shaped bridges. One of the manufacture’ most fascinating pieces that take notes from this early GP creation, is the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges. From every angle, it’s a highly fascinating piece to behold. The curved crystals, the swooping black […]

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Introducing – The Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Malachite Limited Edition Monochrome
Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Malachite Aug 30, 2024

Introducing – The Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Malachite Limited Edition

Frederique Constant has updated its Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture with a premium 18k white gold case and green malachite dial that’s being released in limited numbers. It’s aesthetically similar to the British racing green (dial) steel variant from a few months ago, but is now much more premium with the change in materials. The watch […]

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Breitling Celebrates Its 140th Anniversary With A Trio Of Gold Flagship Watches Fratello
Breitling Celebrates Aug 29, 2024

Breitling Celebrates Its 140th Anniversary With A Trio Of Gold Flagship Watches

This past June, Breitling invited me to its Chronometrie facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. The tour offered an opportunity to see the various Breitling manufacture calibers in different production states. The meticulous yet efficient nature of the assembly leads to a robust and reliable B01 chronograph movement along with modules for calendar and GMT functions. […] Visit Breitling Celebrates Its 140th Anniversary With A Trio Of Gold Flagship Watches to read the full article.

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First Look – The New Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition Monochrome
Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Aug 29, 2024

First Look – The New Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition

If Armin Strom was initially centred around Mister Armin Strom himself, the brand underwent a significant transformation in 2006 when it was acquired by Serge Michel and Claude Greisler, who aimed to turn Armin Strom into a full-fledged manufacture. The duo presented its first in-house movement in 2009, and today, to celebrate the 15th anniversary […]

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Introducing Gagà Laboratorio, a New Independent Watch Brand with Italian Flare Worn & Wound
Bvlgari Aug 28, 2024

Introducing Gagà Laboratorio, a New Independent Watch Brand with Italian Flare

Two prominent industry insiders have recently collaborated to establish a new watch company, Gagà Laboratorio, based in Switzerland. Mo Coppoletta will serve as the Art Director, and Ruben Tomella as the owner of the Italy based Gagà Milano brand and the newly formed company, Gagà Laboratorio. Mr. Tomella has had a successful tenure with Gagà Milano for two decades. He founded brand offshoot Manufacture Gagà in Switzerland, which has focused on creating high-end products for Gagà Milano in collaboration with leading industry partners, including the development of tourbillon movements in partnership with Hysek, a Swiss independent brand. In 2020, Mr. Tomella decided to redirect the activities of the Swiss company and embarked on establishing a new brand, Gagà Laboratorio. The mission of Gagà Laboratorio is to create entry-level luxury timepieces that emphasize design while maintaining high-quality movement standards. To achieve this vision, he partnered with artist Mo Coppoletta, a long-time friend. Together, they have initiated this new chapter for Gagà. Mo Coppoletta is a world-renowned artist, designer, and tattoo artist, known for his collaborations with Bvlgari on two Octo Finissimo limited editions featuring his tattoo artwork. In my interview with Mr. Tomella, he discusses the vision of Gagà Laboratorio. “After 16 years in the watchmaking industry at the helm of Gagà Milano, in 2020, I felt a strong pull towards the world of independent watchmaking and d...

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Hands-on – The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Double Tourbillon Cobalt Chrome Monochrome
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Double Tourbillon Cobalt Aug 28, 2024

Hands-on – The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Double Tourbillon Cobalt Chrome

Hyper Horology. A term coined by the Roger Dubuis manufacture that perfectly describes its complex and extravagant watchmaking style. The brand doesn’t shy away from uniquely creative and colourful expressions, regularly incorporating exotic materials stemming from the automotive or aeronautical world. Roger Dubuis’ latest adaptation of its cornerstone Excalibur collection not only incorporates a double […]

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Introducing – The Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone Edition Monochrome
Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Aug 27, 2024

Introducing – The Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone Edition

For their latest collaboration piece, Zenith and Felipe Pantone are teaming up once again, bringing a fresh burst of colour and artistic innovation to the brand’s collection. Pantone, renowned for his electrifying kinetic art that merges dynamic colours with geometric patterns, first collaborated with Zenith in 2020, when he transformed the Le Locle-based manufacture’s façade […]

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A Red Jaguar E-Type, One-Day Trips To New York On Concorde, And Other Fun Facts About Armin Strom Fratello
Armin Strom After talking Aug 26, 2024

A Red Jaguar E-Type, One-Day Trips To New York On Concorde, And Other Fun Facts About Armin Strom

After talking to Serge Michel and Claude Greisler, the two co-founders of the watch brand Armin Strom, it became apparent that they do things differently at their manufacture in the Swiss watchmaking town of Biel/Bienne. Ask them anything, and the two childhood friends who started a watch brand inspired by the open-worked creations of famous […] Visit A Red Jaguar E-Type, One-Day Trips To New York On Concorde, And Other Fun Facts About Armin Strom to read the full article.

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