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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Hands-On With The Santos De Cartier Brown Dial WatchAdvice
Cartier Brown Dial We spend Mar 31, 2026

Hands-On With The Santos De Cartier Brown Dial

We spend a week with the Santos De Cartier Large brown dial to see how this timeless piece wears in the hustle and bustle of daily life. What We Love The timeless design of the Santos Ingenious quick-change bracelet and quick-link system The slim profile on the wrist What We Don’t Lack of fine adjustment on the bracelet The brown dial may not be to everyone’s tastes A see-through caseback would be a great addition Overall Score: 8.75/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 This article was originally published as Reviewing The New Santos De Cartier Brown Dial As far as watch releases go, few brands garner global attention on the first day at Watches & Wonders. One of these is Cartier. The second biggest watch brand by sales in the world and a brand synonymous with luxury, Cartier always manages to surprise with both their “everyday” pieces, as well as their Cartier Privé and High Jewellery collection from their Maison Mètiers d’Arts. WATCH EDUCATION: A Look Into How Cartier Creates Its Iconic Pieces Back in 2024, I was excited to see first-hand what the Maison would bring out, and hopefully, get my hands on these, as at the time, I had not reviewed a piece from Cartier before. One of these pieces was the Santos De Cartier Large with a 70’s vibe brown gradient dial, and being something very different to what I’m used to wearing, I was keen to put it on the wrist Initial Thoughts I always write down my initial thoughts when...

First Look – The New Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar Monochrome
Bulgari  in 2000 Genta himself Mar 31, 2026

First Look – The New Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar

Gerald Charles is a name that traces back to the legendary Gérald Genta, widely regarded as one of the most influential modern watch designers. While his eponymous brand, Gerald Genta, was sold to Bulgari in 2000, Genta himself soon embarked on a new chapter, founding Gérald Charles as a more personal expression of his design philosophy. In 2011, […]

A Hands-On Introduction To The Baltic Heures Du Monde With Three Stone Dials Fratello
Baltic Heures Du Monde Mar 31, 2026

A Hands-On Introduction To The Baltic Heures Du Monde With Three Stone Dials

We already mentioned Baltic in a recent Fratello Talks episode, “The Microbrands To Watch In 2026.” Etienne Malec founded the brand 10 years ago and launched his first watch a year later. We suspect he’s planning something big for the anniversary, but it doesn’t look like Etienne needs any excuse to launch great new watches. […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Baltic Heures Du Monde With Three Stone Dials to read the full article.

First Look – The Bianchet Ultrafino Rotondo Flying Tourbillon Monochrome
Mar 30, 2026

First Look – The Bianchet Ultrafino Rotondo Flying Tourbillon

Independent watchmaking brand Bianchet, founded by Rodolfo and Emmanuelle Festa Bianchet in the Neuchâtel Canton, has built an identity around skeleton tourbillon watches and a design language that merges technicality with modern aesthetics. Until now, the brand has expressed its vision exclusively through tonneau-shaped cases. Just ahead of Watches and Wonders 2026, where the brand […]

Introducing – The Time-Only Singer Caballero Titanium Collection Monochrome
Mar 30, 2026

Introducing – The Time-Only Singer Caballero Titanium Collection

Singer Reimagined, founded in 2017, is a Geneva-based watchmaking brand born from the collaboration between Rob Dickinson, founder of Singer Vehicle Design, known for bespoke Porsche 911 restomods, and Italian watch designer Marco Borraccino. The duo bonded over a shared passion for 1960s-70s sport chronographs and engineering excellence, leading to Singer’s motto: “Reimagined, Restored, Reborn”. […]

First Look – Holthinrichs Presents the Signature LAB Series 1 Small Seconds and GMT Monochrome
Holthinrichs Presents Mar 29, 2026

First Look – Holthinrichs Presents the Signature LAB Series 1 Small Seconds and GMT

10 years ago, a young architect named Michiel Holthinrichs had the idea to create watches… But not like every other young indie watchmaker. What made it unique? The Ornament 1 was the world’s first 3D-printed stainless steel watch. And it certainly had a design of its own, inspired by Michiel’s previous career. The specially-commissioned watch […]

Introducing: The Singer Reimagined Caballero, Now Reimagined In Titanium Fratello
Mar 28, 2026

Introducing: The Singer Reimagined Caballero, Now Reimagined In Titanium

Until late summer 2025, watch enthusiasts lived in a universe where Singer Reimagined watches were reliably awe-inspiring in their complexity. The brand’s many takes on racing chronographs matched its close relationship with Singer Vehicle Design. And then, come September 2025, Singer dropped the time-only Caballero. Out went the complications and intricate dial layouts. In came […] Visit Introducing: The Singer Reimagined Caballero, Now Reimagined In Titanium to read the full article.

Reviewing The Ballon Bleu de Cartier: A Unique Take On Your Classic Round Watch WatchAdvice
Cartier Mar 26, 2026

Reviewing The Ballon Bleu de Cartier: A Unique Take On Your Classic Round Watch

In a world of round watches, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier stands out thanks to its unique design, as only Cartier can! What We Love: The unique style that is very Cartier The great-looking dial that stands out on the wrist Ease of wearing at 36mm for a variety of wrist sizes What We Don’t: The double-folding friction clasp could be upgraded to a push button in this model While unisex, some with larger wrists will most probably need to upgrade to the 42mm The crown was slightly harder to access to change the time for me Overall Rating: 8.25 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 When people think of Cartier watches, the first thing that usually comes to mind is a maker of shapes. The brand has built much of its identity around distinctive case designs rather than traditional round watches, with icons such as the Santos, Tank, Tortue, Crash and Cloche, to name a few, all standing out as examples of Cartier doing things a little differently. That approach to design has long set the Maison apart from many other watchmakers who tend to lean more heavily on classic round cases. So when Cartier introduced the Cartier de Ballon Bleu in 2007, it represented something slightly different for the brand. On paper, it’s a round watch, which might sound straightforward enough, but as with most things Cartier, it’s not quite that simple. Rather than just producing a traditional circular case, Cartier added its own distinctive twist with the n...

Hands-on – The All-New Omega Constellation Observatory Collection (incl. Video) Monochrome
Omega Constellation Observatory Collection incl Mar 26, 2026

Hands-on – The All-New Omega Constellation Observatory Collection (incl. Video)

The launch of a new collection from a brand as important as Omega is always a significant event. In this particular case, however, it is not strictly the introduction of an entirely new design, but rather the unveiling of a new family of Constellation watches inspired by a historical model’s aesthetics. What also makes this […]

Introducing – The New Bell & Ross BR-05 36mm Blue Diamond Eagle Monochrome
Bell & Ross BR-05 36mm Blue Diamond Mar 25, 2026

Introducing – The New Bell & Ross BR-05 36mm Blue Diamond Eagle

The BR-05 was introduced in 2019 in 40mm as Bell & Ross’s answer to the luxury integrated bracelet sports watch trend, translating the BR-01’s cockpit instrument looks into a more contemporary, everyday design. In tune with contemporary trends for more compact, unisex diameters, Bell & Ross presented a 36mm version in 2025. The latest BR-05 […]

Behind the Curtain: A Conversation with Mark Braun, Designer of the Nomos Metro Worn & Wound
Nomos Metro We live Mar 24, 2026

Behind the Curtain: A Conversation with Mark Braun, Designer of the Nomos Metro

We live in a (watch) world where brand names reign supreme and terms like “in-house” carry a lot of weight. However, I find it much more interesting when a watchmaker is willing to peel back the curtain and highlight the great minds and hands that go into crafting the watches we love. Recently, Nomos gave us one of those unique opportunities to sit down with the man behind the design of one of its core collections: the Metro. The Metro first came into the Nomos catalog back in 2014. At the time, it made waves thanks to its debut of the brand’s proprietary swing escapement system, which was developed over seven years with the Fraunhofer Institute and TU Dresden. The structure notably features a tempered blue balance spring and offers superior precision, efficiency, and compactness with a thickness of approximately 3.2mm, which perfectly lends itself to Nomos’ sleek and effortless timepieces. While perhaps considered secondary at its initial introduction, the form of the new collection was given just as much attention as the function. In typical Nomos fashion, the caliber was housed in a modern and minimalist design echoing the tenets of German watchmaking but with a twist. This creation was the brainchild of industrial designer Mark Braun. The project marks Braun’s first and only foray into the watch space. The artist has worked in nearly every medium under the sun from furniture to kitchenware and birdhouses to shaving kits, light fixtures, jewelry, calligraphy p...

Seiko Adds New References Inspired by the Tokyo Skyline to their Expanding King Seiko Line Worn & Wound
Seiko Adds New References Inspired Mar 23, 2026

Seiko Adds New References Inspired by the Tokyo Skyline to their Expanding King Seiko Line

Some cityscapes have more iconic skylines than others, but it’s hard to argue that Tokyo’s massive metropolitan sprawl hasn’t inspired decades of media, art, and yes, watches. Cyberpunk anime and JRPGs aside, it’s one of the most recognizable urban landscapes in the world, and its neon-drenched shopping districts, blend of modernist and classical architecture, and towering skyscrapers make an excellent canvas. Enter Seiko’s new King Seiko VANAC models, taking design inspiration directly from Tokyo’s skyline, and introducing three new dial colors.  Each of the new VANAC models is housed in a sporty 41mm case (45.1mm lug-to-lug) with an integrated bracelet. It’s a familiar shape for King Seiko models, but it maintains that classy, versatile outline without appearing too outdated. It’s an almost ‘70s or ‘80s look, despite the larger, modern dimensions, and suits the dial design well; the indices and squared-off hands have an Art Deco look, which pairs nicely with the angular screw-down crown and geometric lines of the case. The seconds hand in particular, finished in silver to match the stainless steel case, has a delicate, skeleton “v” shape as a counterweight at the top end, which adds a flair of elegance to the design. A date window at 3 o’clock helps the dial maintain a balanced look, and the layered radial pattern of the minute track, and horizontal line texture of the dial does bring to mind the organized chaos of Tokyo’s “vast horizon”....

Citizen Introduces Two New Limited-Edition Photon Models That Take Eco-Drive To The Next Level Fratello
Citizen Introduces Two New Limited-Edition Mar 23, 2026

Citizen Introduces Two New Limited-Edition Photon Models That Take Eco-Drive To The Next Level

Last week, I reported on a new high-end Citizen Eco-Drive 50th Anniversary Edition with a beautiful green washi (Japanese paper) dial. In the same week, Citizen also introduced two new watches powered by a brand-new Eco-Drive caliber. The new lightweight Photon models feature state-of-the-art dials that combine an intriguing design with the latest in Citizen’s […] Visit Citizen Introduces Two New Limited-Edition Photon Models That Take Eco-Drive To The Next Level to read the full article.

The Chase-Durer Wing Commander X: A Look at Every Wannabe Fighter Pilot’s Wrist Companion Worn & Wound
Mar 20, 2026

The Chase-Durer Wing Commander X: A Look at Every Wannabe Fighter Pilot’s Wrist Companion

There comes a time in every watch collector’s life when they fall in love with a watch they know others in the hobby may potentially scoff at. Whether it be misconceptions around the brand, the use of cheaper movements and parts, seedy advertising campaigns, or just overall subjective taste in design, it’s a phenomenon that exists as one of the very few downsides of the collecting space. It’s important to note, however, that this frame of mind lies on a spectrum of course, with some watches being far more notable enemies of the wristwatch state than others. The Chase-Durer Wing Commander X is a watch that has fallen into the cracks of the watch market and a piece, I believe, may initially conjure negative sentiments by some corners of the collecting sphere.  Chase-Durer was originally advertised in magazines and on the very early days of the internet, where zealous dial-up internet subscribers would surf the World Wide Web in hopes of making their very first online purchase. They never held the same staying power as others of the watch industry, akin to the 38mm mail-order film cameras found in years’ worth of popular and print media when compared to Canon or Nikon. However, there is a lot to like about the brand and, in this case, the Wing Commander X. If you’re someone who’s on the fence about whether or not you’re a fan of this watch just from aesthetics and brand recognition alone, welcome in––let me walk you through what makes this an interesting pi...

Introducing – Dominique Renaud Launches New Brand and Presents the One-Hertz-Beating Pulse60 Watch Monochrome
Mar 17, 2026

Introducing – Dominique Renaud Launches New Brand and Presents the One-Hertz-Beating Pulse60 Watch

If high-frequency is often marketed as the pinnacle of precision in modern watchmaking, things are actually more nuanced and more about managing the inevitable trade-offs. Every gain in one area usually comes with a drawback elsewhere. Although he has already worked on high-frequency, low amplitude oscillators, industry veteran Dominique Renaud is now taking the opposite […]

Long-Term Review: Five Years Owning The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch And Omega Seamaster 300 Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Mar 17, 2026

Long-Term Review: Five Years Owning The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch And Omega Seamaster 300

Inspired by RJ’s recent article on five years of owning the Omega’s current Moonwatch, today, I’ll reflect on my experience. Indeed, 2021 was a barnstorming year for Omega. On the first Tuesday of 2021, the brand released an updated Moonwatch with many design and quality improvements. Then, in March, came a slew of new references, […] Visit Long-Term Review: Five Years Owning The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch And Omega Seamaster 300 to read the full article.

The Best Jump-Hour Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 16, 2026

The Best Jump-Hour Watches

For a watch-enthusiast raised on traditional analog timekeeping, jump-hour watches do not necessarily present the easiest or most intuitive way to read the time on their dials, but they inarguably offer one of the most dynamic ways to do so. Instead of a slow-moving central hand to indicate the hour, watches with a “jumping” design rely on a numbered disk that flips instantly to the next hour numeral at the start of each new 60-minute period. These disks most often operate behind a round aperture and are usually paired with either a similarly rotating disk for the minutes or, perhaps, with an analog hand for an interesting hybrid design. And while they may seem decidedly avant-garde in their aesthetic, watchmakers have incorporated this style of time display in their movements for over a century. Here is a look at eight of our favorites from recent years.  [toc-section heading="A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date"] The Zeitwerk, which German luxury watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne introduced in 2009, is technically a “digital” watch, but it isn’t like any other one you’ve ever seen: there are no electronics, no LCD screens, and you won’t find it at your local big box store. The Lange Zeitwerk Date flies in the ionosphere of high horology, with a 44.2mm round case, made of 18k white gold or rose gold, framing an intricately crafted dial that boasts a jumping-hour digital display, powered by the manually-wound L043.8 movement. Every detail of this watch is a handcraft...

Introducing – Indie Brand Akhor Launches the Lumiere Blanche Editions Monochrome
Mar 16, 2026

Introducing – Indie Brand Akhor Launches the Lumiere Blanche Editions

Geneva-based independent brand Akhor presented its inaugural Le Temps en Équilibre collection in 2025, built around a patented dual-disc display system, and it was immediately recognised for its innovative dial concept and proprietary movement. The new Lumière Blanche editions expand the concept with a new artistic direction, where white becomes the central design element. The […]

Serica Introduces the 5330 Dive Chronometer Worn & Wound
Serica Introduces Mar 13, 2026

Serica Introduces the 5330 Dive Chronometer

One of watchmaking’s simplest but most iconic complications, the date window, is the source of much admiration, and yes, a little bit of ire. One of the biggest points of contention on any inclusion of a date window is the balancing of it on the dial; after all, how do you place it to not ruin the symmetry (or asymmetry) of a carefully-crafted design? With their new Ref. 5330 Dive Chronometer, Serica has chosen a sleek solution for their first date window inclusion: nestle it at 3 o’clock, taking the place of the marker, and give it a crisp red accent to stand out. Sure, it’s not necessarily revolutionary, but it adds a sophisticated touch to an already clean dial. The core tenets of the 5330’s design carry over from other models in Serica’s Dive Chronometer lineup, with circular hour markers and a double graduation bezel being the most recognizable, and a 39mm 316L stainless steel case housing an identical SoProd M100 Swiss automatic movement. The matte black dial and anthracite-grey outer bezel ring contrast with the steel of the inner bezel and case, and the cream Super-LumiNova on the hands and hour markers. Similarly, the cream date window and red numeral add both a sense of cohesion and a highly legible flash of color to give the dial an extra layer of aesthetic complication. It’s certainly a welcome addition visually, and keeps the design from feeling too austere.  At 12.2mm in thickness and 46.5mm lug-to-lug, the 5330 is sized well for most wrists, and...