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A New Dial for the Grand Seiko’s Tentagraph SJX Watches
Grand Seiko s Tentagraph Grand Seiko’s Apr 10, 2025

A New Dial for the Grand Seiko’s Tentagraph

Grand Seiko’s flagship chronograph gets a new dial with the Tentagraph SLGC007 that just launched at Watches & Wonders 2025. Nearly identical to its predecessor, the SLGC001 with a dark blue dial, the new iteration distinguishes itself through a striking grey dial embossed with a pattern inspired by freshly fallen snow. This is matched with contrasting black sub-dials that coordinate seamlessly with the ceramic bezel, setting it apart from the earlier model. Initial thoughts The SLGC001 was a significant milestone for Grand Seiko - serving as the brand’s first mechanical chronograph - the new iteration of the Tentagraph is a just cosmetic variant. It has all the strengths and weaknesses of the original, though the dial is more attractive. This refreshed dial is far more appealing than the original in blue, as blue is somewhat overused in sports watches. The “panda”-esque black registers are also a nice touch that add to the sporty design. Priced at US$14,700, the Tentagraph SLGC007 is priced reasonably – but not quite the same value proposition as the average Grand Seiko. The Tentagraph has an impressive list of features, most obviously the in-house cal. 9SC5 with Grand Seiko’s proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement, and a high level of fit and finish, but the movement is modular in construction, which should not be a case for a flagship chronograph from a respected watchmaker. Nature inspired once again As is often the case with Grand Seiko dials, the SLGC007...

First Look – Hitting the Sweet Spot… The new Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds 35mm Monochrome
Raymond Weil Apr 10, 2025

First Look – Hitting the Sweet Spot… The new Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds 35mm

Raymond Weil’s Millesime collection, launched in 2024, is a charming retro-inspired family that has caught many a watch aficionado’s eye. Injecting a new lease of life into a brand that was often overlooked, the Millesime family is out to conquer the market of neo-vintage dress watches with modern specifications. Coupled with competitive prices, the Millesime […]

Introducing: The Jaw-Dropping Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre Apr 10, 2025

Introducing: The Jaw-Dropping Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179

Whevener Jaeger-LeCoultre dusts off the Hybris name, you know you are in for something special. Whether it is Hybris Mechanica or Hybris Artistica, you can rest assured your jaw will drop. Well, this new effort does not disappoint in that respect. It does not disappoint in any respect, really. Well…maybe price, but hey, what do […] Visit Introducing: The Jaw-Dropping Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 to read the full article.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Jorg’s Picks From Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Tudor Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Apr 10, 2025

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Jorg’s Picks From Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Tudor

Picking highlights from this year’s Watches and Wonders is not a simple task. But it’s a matter of abundance rather than a lack thereof. Watches and Wonders 2025 was a show with many highlights in different categories and at different price points. Nevertheless, I have managed to whittle all these highlights down to my favorite […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Jorg’s Picks From Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Tudor to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: The Watches And Wonders 2025 Debrief Fratello
Apr 10, 2025

Fratello Talks: The Watches And Wonders 2025 Debrief

Welcome to this special installment of Fratello Talks. This is the Watches and Wonders 2025 debrief episode, where Nacho, RJ, Daan, and Lex share their highlights from this year’s show. We also discuss just about every brand and novelty released at the fair. Honorable mentions go to some of the novelties released at the other […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Watches And Wonders 2025 Debrief to read the full article.

First Impressions of the New A. Lange & Söhne Novelties Worn & Wound
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 9, 2025

First Impressions of the New A. Lange & Söhne Novelties

A. Lange & Söhne never does half-measures, especially at Watches & Wonders. For 2025, they announced three new models, but a total of four watches: the Saxonia Minute Repeater Perpetual, the Honey Gold Odysseus, and the 1815 in 34mm in rose and white gold. So, one super complicated piece with a ton of features. One rare piece in an exceptional presentation. And two sublimely proportioned everyday watches (in ALS terms). While all were exceptional, the latter of the three left the biggest impression, despite being the smallest in stature.  With a name like Minute Repeater Perpetual, there’s not much mystery about what this watch does, but in true Lange fashion, it’s the elegance with which it does it that’s so special. And, naturally, we have to start with movement. The new caliber L122.2 consists of 640 parts and is meticulously finished to the standards one expects from Lange. In somewhat of a departure from their norm, the untreated Glashütte ¾ plate features a frosted finish instead of Glashütte ribbing. Though the result might appear more straightforward, we were told it makes assembly more complicated, and the resulting even surface puts more attention on the governor, black polished hammers, and encircling gongs, not to mention the free-hand engraved balance cock. It does not just look impressive, however, as there are some clever mechanical tricks at play, too, namely regarding the repeater. The typical sequence of chimes includes first single chimes per ...

Hands-on – Some Thoughts about the Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P, One of the Best in Years Monochrome
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P One Apr 9, 2025

Hands-on – Some Thoughts about the Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P, One of the Best in Years

If you ask yourself what’s the most classic dress watch ever made by Patek, and probably one of the most important models of the category, the answer should ultimately be the Calatrava. Not much to debate here. The collection, created in 1932 with the reference 96, has had such an influence on the watch industry […]

The Watch Industry Reacts to Tariffs on Swiss Imports to the United States Worn & Wound
Apr 9, 2025

The Watch Industry Reacts to Tariffs on Swiss Imports to the United States

Last week, midway through the watch industry’s biggest trade show, Donald Trump announced 31% tariffs on Swiss imports. The proposed tariffs, enacted as of this morning, immediately became the focus of many discussions in Geneva between brands, retailers, and the press, at Palexpo and beyond. The United States is the largest importer of Swiss watches in the world, so a new tariff of 31% on Swiss imports to the US has the potential to reshape not just the watch market in the United States, but the industry as a whole.  The announcement could not have come at a more pressure packed time. The entire watch industry – retailers, brands, manufacturing partners, collectors, and executives – was gathered in Geneva last week, doing the business that normally shapes the arc of the year. As the news was absorbed on Thursday, we witnessed brands and retailers reacting in real time, changing or solidifying plans as appropriate. The inescapable nature of the topic in meetings meant to showcase new products underscored the seriousness of Trump’s announcement, and the potential implications.  In seeking to understand the ramifications of the planned tariffs, we sought out an economist to help firm up our understanding of what the administration is seeking to accomplish. Brendan Cunningham is a professor of economics at Eastern Connecticut State University, and the author of Horolonomics, a website dedicated to “economic complications in watchmaking.” We started by defining o...

Introducing – The New Moritz Grossmann Art Edition with Painter Max Frintrop Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann Apr 9, 2025

Introducing – The New Moritz Grossmann Art Edition with Painter Max Frintrop

With Christine Hutter at the helm, Moritz Grossmann – an indie brand that since 2008 pays tribute to one of the pioneers of Glashütte’s watchmaking – has consistently showcased its prowess in crafting technically sophisticated timepieces. The brand has also impressed with exquisitely crafted dials created using time-honoured techniques. This year marks an intriguing evolution […]

Introducing: Bright Red Sunburst Dials For The Tissot PRX Quartz Fratello
Tissot PRX Quartz It’s no Apr 9, 2025

Introducing: Bright Red Sunburst Dials For The Tissot PRX Quartz

It’s no secret that we are fans of the Tissot PRX here at Fratello. Multiple team members, including yours truly, own a PRX Powermatic 80, so we meet any new addition to the lineup with great interest. The latest expansion of the extensive PRX collection is a pair of red-dial versions of the PRX Quartz […] Visit Introducing: Bright Red Sunburst Dials For The Tissot PRX Quartz to read the full article.

Introducing: The Hermès Arceau And Cut Le Temps Suspendu Along With The Arceau Rocabar De Rire Fratello
Hermes Apr 9, 2025

Introducing: The Hermès Arceau And Cut Le Temps Suspendu Along With The Arceau Rocabar De Rire

Every year, in the months before Watches and Wonders, we receive a lot of press releases and watches up front. That way, we’re well prepared when the fair finally opens its doors. This time, we also asked Hermès whether it would be possible to get a preview of what the brand was working on. However, […] Visit Introducing: The Hermès Arceau And Cut Le Temps Suspendu Along With The Arceau Rocabar De Rire to read the full article.

First Look – The Sleek Black and Blue Wetsuit of the De Bethune DB28GS Swordfish Monochrome
De Bethune DB28GS Swordfish Introduced Apr 9, 2025

First Look – The Sleek Black and Blue Wetsuit of the De Bethune DB28GS Swordfish

Introduced in 2010, De Bethune’s DB28 family distils the essence of Denis Flageollet’s unique watchmaking style with its futuristic silhouette, floating lugs, delta-shaped barrel bridge, exposed balance wheel, and, more often than not, the brand’s signature blued titanium elements. In 2015, the DB28 was revisited in a sportier version with a 100m water-resistant case known […]

I Just Can’t Get Enough Of The New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Fratello
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Apr 9, 2025

I Just Can’t Get Enough Of The New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

Although I became a big Depeche Mode fan later, the most annoying song of the 1980s was “Just Can’t Get Enough.” The overly simple melody by the English electronic band haunted me when it played on the radio and when it wasn’t on. That simple song, with its sharp synthesizer sounds, square and steady disco […] Visit I Just Can’t Get Enough Of The New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.

A Roundup Of All The Panerai Releases At Watches And Wonders 2025 Fratello
Panerai Releases Apr 8, 2025

A Roundup Of All The Panerai Releases At Watches And Wonders 2025

Amid the flurry of news over the past week, it’s easy to miss some of the key releases at Watches and Wonders 2025. Today, we’ll recap Panerai’s latest introductions with a roundup of all the new models. It was a good year for the maker of dive-inspired watches! We always look forward to novelties from […] Visit A Roundup Of All The Panerai Releases At Watches And Wonders 2025 to read the full article.

Hands-On Impressions of the New Watches from Bremont Worn & Wound
Bremont It’s not Apr 8, 2025

Hands-On Impressions of the New Watches from Bremont

It’s not an exaggeration to say that my meeting with Bremont at this year’s Watches & Wonders was among my most anticipated. For better or worse (probably worse, if you survey watch industry vets, media types, and longtime enthusiasts) Bremont’s output dominated much of the conversation during and after last year’s event. It was the brand’s first Watches & Wonders, and the public unveiling of an entirely new look for the brand. As I’m sure many readers will remember, it did not go over particularly well. But 2025 is a new year, and a new opportunity for Bremont to crystallize in the mind of observers what this new era will be about. Because, to be sure, it will not be like “old” Bremont. That ship has sailed, and while some of the watches introduced this year are in direct conversation with Bremont classics, they are still distinctly their own thing. That’s not a judgement, but it’s the reason why some Bremont loyalists will continue to dismiss the new novelties, even if from a bird’s eye view they appear that they might be a return to form. By the same token, someone like me, who was never really a hardcore Bremont enthusiast to begin with, might see silver linings and positive steps forward for the brand.  This is perhaps a longwinded way of saying that Bremont’s output at Watches & Wonders this year was a mixed bag, but a big improvement over last year. More importantly, regardless of whether you like the watches they debuted at the show, the vi...

Hands-on – The Nicolas Delaloye Renaissance Tantalum 39mm and Its Superb Handmade Movement Monochrome
Patek Philippe […] Apr 8, 2025

Hands-on – The Nicolas Delaloye Renaissance Tantalum 39mm and Its Superb Handmade Movement

Despite being an experienced watchmaker in his 50s, Nicolas Delaloye remains one of the discreet names in the independent watchmaking scene. But there are good reasons for that. This AHCI member just regained his independence and re-started making watches a few months ago, after a long period serving as a watchmaker-restorer at the Patek Philippe […]

Introducing – The New Union Glashütte Noramis Date Sport and Noramis Chronograph Sport Monochrome
Union Glashütte Apr 8, 2025

Introducing – The New Union Glashütte Noramis Date Sport and Noramis Chronograph Sport

Union Glashütte, now part of Swatch Group, marks its birth in 1893 when Johannes Dürrstein founded the Uhrenfabrik Union in the heart of Germany’s watchmaking region. Balancing vintage and modern elements with appealing designs and a reasonable price-to-quality ratio, nowadays the brand receives proper attention with releases like last year´s Noramis Chronograph Sport with its […]

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Lex’s Picks From Patek Philippe, Chanel, And Roger Dubuis Fratello
Patek Philippe Chanel Apr 8, 2025

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Lex’s Picks From Patek Philippe, Chanel, And Roger Dubuis

Watches and Wonders 2025 might be done and dusted, but some watches continue to haunt me. Patek Philippe is always impressive, but this time, it wasn’t something complicated that struck a nerve. Rather, it was the introverted Calatrava 6196P, a classic with a contemporary twist. The Chanel J12 Bleu collection surprised me in the metal […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Lex’s Picks From Patek Philippe, Chanel, And Roger Dubuis to read the full article.

Grand Seiko Debuts the Angular, Sporty Tentagraph Tokyo Lion SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Debuts Apr 8, 2025

Grand Seiko Debuts the Angular, Sporty Tentagraph Tokyo Lion

Grand Seiko’s flagship mechanical chronograph has been reimagined as the Sports Collection Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009. Executed in the brand’s proprietary “Brilliant Hard Titanium”, the oversized, facetted case is inspired by the paw of a lion, the historical emblem of Grand Seiko. This is the first time the Tentagraph movement is being combined with the Tokyo Lion case, setting it apart from the original model that was in the classic Grand Seiko Evolution 9 design. Initial thoughts While the original Tentagraph was conventional in style, the Tokyo Lion edition is big and bold. The watch has presence on the wrist. The case is large at 43 mm wide and almost 16 mm high, with its many facetted surfaces catching the light nicely. While the concept of a lion-inspired case might sound gimmicky, the new Tentagraph has its own appeal. The size and style makes this less of a low-key everyday watch than the first Tentagraph, but definitely more striking and original. Even though the Tokyo Lion case is arguably an acquired taste, I like this more than the original. At US$16,400, the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph is one of Grand Seiko’s priciest models in non-precious metal. But it is a flagship watch with a latest-generation movement, the cal. 9SC5, which incorporates the proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement and a free-sprung balance. The only shortcoming of the watch is the modular construction of the movement. Ten beats per second While the Tokyo Lion case design has been emplo...