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Introducing – The Compact 40mm Edition of The American-Made RGM 801 Classic Enamel Monochrome
Hamilton before going solo RGM Feb 27, 2025

Introducing – The Compact 40mm Edition of The American-Made RGM 801 Classic Enamel

RGM is an independent high-end American watch brand founded in 1992 by Roland G. Murphy in Mount Joy, Pennsylvania. Trained in Switzerland (Wostep), Roland worked in product development at Hamilton before going solo. RGM is something of an anomaly on the American panorama with its in-house movements and dials decorated with traditional métiers d’art like […]

Fratello Favorites: The Best (Neo-)Vintage Watches Under €5K - Daan’s Picks From Blancpain, Credor, And Cartier Fratello
Blancpain Credor Feb 27, 2025

Fratello Favorites: The Best (Neo-)Vintage Watches Under €5K - Daan’s Picks From Blancpain, Credor, And Cartier

On Monday, Thomas kicked off another series of Fratello Favorites. Our writers get another chance to share their favorite watches within a certain segment. This time, we are tackling vintage watches under €5K. Like Thomas, I’d also like to add another filter to those search terms. As I’m not very confident with or knowledgeable about […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best (Neo-)Vintage Watches Under €5K - Daan’s Picks From Blancpain, Credor, And Cartier to read the full article.

The Dior Chiffre Rouge Chronograph in High Contrast Red and Black SJX Watches
Zenith El Primero 400 another Feb 27, 2025

The Dior Chiffre Rouge Chronograph in High Contrast Red and Black

The latest iteration of Dior’s asymmetrical wristwatch builds on last year’s all-black release. The new Chiffre Rouge Chronograph retains the signature asymmetrical DLC-coated steel case, but adds a striking red-gradient dial adorned with Dior’s trademark geometric pattern. But this is not merely a “fashion watch”, as inside is the Zenith El Primero 400, another example of the group-level movement strategy at LVMH. Initial thoughts Dior has been producing watches since the 1970s, but struggles to resonate with watch enthusiasts, who often dismiss its offerings as “fashion watches” – a challenge faced by other fashion or leather goods makers. The brand has been making “serious” watches on and off over its history, and last year reintroduced a Chiffre Rouge Chronograph powered by the El Primero. While the stark, edgy design of the watch is not for everyone, it is mechanically credible, albeit steeply priced. At US$17,000, the price is definitely more Dior than Zenith. It’s also substantially pricier than last year’s model with the same movement. The value proposition is difficult to justify. A more advanced movement, like Zenith’s latest generation El Primero 3600, would make this more compelling. Red gradient dial The new Chiffre Rouge mirrors last year’s model, retaining the signature cannage-patterned crown and polished bumpers on the right flank. The chief update is the red gradient dial, which features Dior’s signature geometric motif. Powe...

Introducing the SJX Podcast SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s investment Feb 27, 2025

Introducing the SJX Podcast

We are pleased to announce the launch of the SJX Podcast, which is now an official part of our programming. The podcast will be regular and topical (though the very first instalment was an ad hoc collector conversation). In the official inaugural episode, editor Brandon Moore and SJX talk about the state of the industry and Swiss watch export figures, the developments at LVMH watches, including Louis Vuitton’s investment in a state-of-the-art manufacture and Zenith’s evolution into a watchmaker’s watchmaker. They also look ahead to Watches & Wonders 2025, and discuss what’s on the cards for brands big and small. The podcast is now live on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube. Addition March 8, 2025: YouTube link added.

Hands-On With The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Bronze Gold “GoldenEye” Fratello
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Bronze Feb 27, 2025

Hands-On With The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Bronze Gold “GoldenEye”

I bought my first Omega Seamaster Diver 300M in 2000 when I was still a student (with a job). It was - and still is - a remarkable watch, and Omega didn’t use inspiration from any vintage models when designing and developing it. Omega created the Seamaster Diver 300M from scratch in the early 1990s […] Visit Hands-On With The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Bronze Gold “GoldenEye” to read the full article.

South Beach Vibes In Scheveningen With The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Flamingo Blue” Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Flamingo Feb 27, 2025

South Beach Vibes In Scheveningen With The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Flamingo Blue”

Pink flamingos have a very peculiar smell. The result of a strict shrimp-only diet will do that to a bird. Blue flamingos, on the other hand, smell like roasted peanuts. Do you know why? That’s because they feed exclusively on blue M&Ms;, just like spoiled rock stars. Come on, give me a break. I mean, […] Visit South Beach Vibes In Scheveningen With The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Flamingo Blue” to read the full article.

And You May Ask Yourself, “Well, how did I get here?” – Dealing With Imposter Syndrome in the Watch Community Worn & Wound
Feb 26, 2025

And You May Ask Yourself, “Well, how did I get here?” – Dealing With Imposter Syndrome in the Watch Community

I attended my first watch meetup with a generic quartz dress watch on my wrist and two budget mechanical watches stuffed into my pockets. In my right pocket was a one hand Luch, a watch that was as quirky as it was inexpensive (I think I paid $50 on Amazon, a lot for me at the time), thanks to a single hand that worked its way around a 12 hour dial about twice per day. I say “about” because it wasn’t very accurate, but I didn’t care. I’d spent hours researching my first mechanical watch before spending my hard earned cash, and was genuinely proud to own it. My left pocket housed a broken HMT Pilot, a watch that unlike the Luch that had been purchased out of pure enthusiasm, I knew little about. Of course, it wasn’t broken when I’d bought it, and the debate of whether or not it even belonged in my pocket at all was one that had caused me considerable stress in the hours leading up to the meetup. As a pandemic era watch enthusiast, I cut my horological teeth behind the safety of my phone screen. Like bowling with bumpers, the internet spoon fed me confidence in a secure environment, letting me compose painstakingly researched opinions into carefully curated comments before posting anonymously on a forum. And, if that comment received criticism, this informative and safe environment allowed me to make it disappear forever with a single click. But as the pandemic fizzled out and restrictions were lifted, the watch community I’d become a part of through various ...

Introducing – A New, Stylish Blue and Golden Dial For the MeisterSinger Pangaea Day Date Monochrome
MeisterSinger Feb 26, 2025

Introducing – A New, Stylish Blue and Golden Dial For the MeisterSinger Pangaea Day Date

Inspired by the very first mechanical tower and table clocks that had not yet discovered the minutes hand, MeisterSinger’s disarmingly simple premise is to deliver the time with a single hand. However, a single hand is not necessarily equated with simple watches, and the brand’s repertoire includes complications like its chiming Bel Hora and moon phase […]

Introducing: The Havid Nagan Classic One - The Los Angeles-Based Brand’s Third Model Fratello
Havid Nagan Feb 26, 2025

Introducing: The Havid Nagan Classic One - The Los Angeles-Based Brand’s Third Model

If you have not heard of Havid Nagan, it is about time you did. F.P.Journe alumnus Aren Bazerkanian founded the brand in 2022, and he is doing things properly. Despite barely three years of the brand’s existence, Bazerkanian dropped his third watch recently: the Havid Nagan Classic One. Havid Nagan does not follow your average […] Visit Introducing: The Havid Nagan Classic One - The Los Angeles-Based Brand’s Third Model to read the full article.

Introducing – The Bianchet B 1.618 UltraFino, a Slim Tourbillon Integrated Sports Watch Monochrome
Feb 26, 2025

Introducing – The Bianchet B 1.618 UltraFino, a Slim Tourbillon Integrated Sports Watch

Bianchet is an independent watchmaking brand founded by Rodolfo and Emmanuelle Festa-Bianchet, whose atelier is located in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Since 2021, the brand has been offering modern tonneau-shaped watches powered by architectural openworked tourbillon movements. As Watches and Wonders and its side events are fast approaching, Bianchet unveils a new model named the B […]

Hands-On With The Timex Ironman 8-Lap Gray Shades Fratello
Timex Ironman 8-Lap Gray Shades Feb 26, 2025

Hands-On With The Timex Ironman 8-Lap Gray Shades

Retro watches have been all the rage for more than a decade now. When we review those releases, though, most are analog and inspired by highly collectible vintage timepieces with lengthy stories. But what about the omnipresent everyman’s watches we took for granted as kids or teenagers? Every so often, they return too, and if […] Visit Hands-On With The Timex Ironman 8-Lap Gray Shades to read the full article.

A Much-Desired Encounter With The Master Chronometer Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Fratello
Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Last Feb 26, 2025

A Much-Desired Encounter With The Master Chronometer Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome”

Last year’s big Tudor releases during Watches and Wonders were the Black Bay 58 GMT and the black version of the Master Chronometer Black Bay. The latter was quickly nicknamed Black Bay “Monochrome,” to be more specific. With Watches and Wonders 2025 around the corner, an obvious next release would be the Master Chronometer Black […] Visit A Much-Desired Encounter With The Master Chronometer Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” to read the full article.

Grand Seiko: Looking at What Makes the Brand so Special – And Grand Seiko is Definitely Special! Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko Looking Feb 26, 2025

Grand Seiko: Looking at What Makes the Brand so Special – And Grand Seiko is Definitely Special!

The first association for many on hearing the word "Seiko" is likely to be affordable quartz watches or automatic divers. However, Seiko offers much more, particularly in terms of luxury timepieces. Grand Seiko, which became its own brand under the Seiko Group in 2017, produces some of the most competitive luxury watches on the market, rivaling the best Swiss brands at prices that are still (somewhat) attainable.

Hands-On With The RGM Model 207-EB Featuring A Beautiful Blue Engine-Turned Dial Fratello
RGM Feb 25, 2025

Hands-On With The RGM Model 207-EB Featuring A Beautiful Blue Engine-Turned Dial

It’s been a while since we covered a watch by the North American brand RGM. The company is known for its high-quality watches with classic styling and extensive customizability. Today, we’re looking at the RGM Model 207-EB with a blue guilloché dial. Its 35mm case feels a bit un-American as it isn’t oversized by any […] Visit Hands-On With The RGM Model 207-EB Featuring A Beautiful Blue Engine-Turned Dial to read the full article.

Oak & Oscar and Eric Wind Collaborate on a Limited and Vintage Inspired Edition of the Atwood Chronograph Worn & Wound
Oak & Oscar Feb 25, 2025

Oak & Oscar and Eric Wind Collaborate on a Limited and Vintage Inspired Edition of the Atwood Chronograph

One of the things that all great micro and independent watch brands have in common is that they lean into exactly who they are. The brands that attempt to cater to changing tastes and trends never seem to last, or if they do they seem to just kind of languish and not really grow or do anything all that noteworthy. Another way to say this is that brands who are authentically themselves, and a reflection of the point of view of those in charge, and their clients, are almost always going to be the most interesting. Oak & Oscar, I think, neatly falls into that category. Whether the designs are your cup of tea or not, there’s no denying that the brand, their aesthetic, and the choices they make line up precisely with the ideas that founder Chase Fancher and his colleagues are trying to bring to the larger watch community. That was apparent in their recent Humboldt GMT SAR limited edition, which helped to underline the brand’s general love of the outdoors, and it’s built into their latest release, a limited edition version of the Atwood chronograph, in an entirely different way.  The new version of the Atwood is a collaboration with Wind Vintage, the well known vintage retailer founded by Eric Wind in 2017. The Atwood Wind Vintage Edition is simply a product of two friends coming together to work on a cool product, which Oak & Oscar describes as a tenet of what they’re all about. Eric and Chase go way back, having met in New York just after the release of the Burnham, O...

Introducing: The Oak & Oscar Atwood Wind Vintage Edition Fratello
Oak & Oscar Feb 25, 2025

Introducing: The Oak & Oscar Atwood Wind Vintage Edition

When two of the most likable people in the watch industry collaborate on a watch, only good things can happen, right? With collaborations, success is never a guarantee, but the new Oak & Oscar Atwood Wind Vintage Edition is an absolute winner. The only complaint is that so few will be made. Here at Fratello, […] Visit Introducing: The Oak & Oscar Atwood Wind Vintage Edition to read the full article.

First Look – New Grey Dials for the Steel AP Code 11.59 Selfwinding and Chronograph Monochrome
Audemars Piguet introduced stainless steel models Feb 25, 2025

First Look – New Grey Dials for the Steel AP Code 11.59 Selfwinding and Chronograph

In 2023, four years after the debut of the Code 11.59 collection in precious metals, Audemars Piguet introduced stainless steel models. The expansion included six Code 11.59 references – three Selfwinding and three Selfwinding Chronographs – featuring a fresh dial pattern, new colourways, and striking gradient dials with ceramic elements. The brand continues the collection’s […]