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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

First Look – The Tissot PRX 40 Powermatic 80, now with Gradient Dials or in Full Forged Carbon Monochrome
Tissot PRX 40 Powermatic 80 Sep 5, 2024

First Look – The Tissot PRX 40 Powermatic 80, now with Gradient Dials or in Full Forged Carbon

One of the Swiss watch industry’s main successes from recent years, and Tissot‘s star collection, the PRX range has become a true hit since its inaugural release in 2021. Since then, this collection has been drastically enlarged to offer more movements, more colours, more materials, more straps and more dimensions. While we thought the mint […]

The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five LFP Limited Edition - Supporting Vulnerable Children To Make A Change For The Better Fratello
Oris Divers Sixty-Five LFP Limited Sep 5, 2024

The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five LFP Limited Edition - Supporting Vulnerable Children To Make A Change For The Better

To me, among all the big brands out there, Oris really sticks out. Ever since I bought my first luxury watch, the dressy Oris Art Blakey, I’ve found it charming how the brand makes everyone smile. The new Divers Sixty-Five LFP Limited Edition, a watch made in collaboration with the French Professional Football League (LFP), […] Visit The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five LFP Limited Edition - Supporting Vulnerable Children To Make A Change For The Better to read the full article.

A Holthinrichs Progress Report: Updates on the Signature Collection and the Ornament Nouveau Worn & Wound
Holthinrichs Progress Report Updates Sep 4, 2024

A Holthinrichs Progress Report: Updates on the Signature Collection and the Ornament Nouveau

Earlier this spring, when the Worn & Wound team was in Switzerland for Watches & Wonders, we had a somewhat impromptu meeting with the Holthinrichs team at a very pleasant but nondescript Geneva coffee shop, somewhat off the beaten path of watch fair hysteria that grips the city during show season. It was there that we got our first look at the Signature Collection, a major shift in strategy for the brand, now planning to offer watches with a familiarly intricate case design but at a much lower price point than previous collections, thanks to new manufacturing partnerships and a retreat from 3D printing, a process that simply became to expensive as the brand’s designs became more complex. Founder Michiel Holthinrichs also told us about an ambitious new project during this meeting, the Ornament Nouveau, a watch that sits squarely in the haute horlogerie space. At that last meeting, Michiel only had renders of the Ornament Nouveau to show us on his phone, and some crude 3D printed prototype cases (in plastic) of the Signature Collection. Just a few months later, I sat down with Michiel and his team once again, at that same coffee shop, and was able to lay my hands on real watches that were every bit as impressive as I had hoped they’d be. It was a particular treat to see the Ornament Nouveau, a watch that the team is immensely proud of.  A quick caveat – we’re still dealing with prototypes here in the case of the Signature Collection pieces. The team had hoped to be...

Hands-On with the Relaunched Favre Leuba Collections at Geneva Watch Days Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin Sep 4, 2024

Hands-On with the Relaunched Favre Leuba Collections at Geneva Watch Days

One of my first and most eagerly anticipated Geneva Watch Days meetings was with Favre Leuba, a brand that I’ve admired for a very long time, even as its modern incarnation felt like a shell of the brand of its vintage heyday. Favre Leuba is a brand with a long history, dating back to the first half of the 18th century, and is perhaps best known for the Bivouac, a watch with an integrated altimeter complication. Ownership of the brand has changed many times over the years, and in recent years the marque was controlled by various holding companies that never did justice to the watches created in Favre Leuba’s best years. This year, however, marks a new start for the brand, under the leadership of watch industry veteran Patrik Hoffmann, who had a long stint at Ulysse Nardin, and later WatchBox. At Geneva Watch Days, they debuted a robust new collection of watches that pays homage to the brand’s history while also looking forward, giving Favre Leuba the best chance they’ve had in years for real success.  Patrik Hoffmann at Geneva Watch Days 2024 There are multiple ways to relaunch a brand. You can start small, even with a single watch, and work your way toward building a collection. Or you can go big with something akin to the kitchen sink approach, with varied collections and price points. The advantage, I suppose, of going big is that a brand will get immediate feedback on what works and what doesn’t, but it also seems risky. What if none of it works? Favre Leuba...

Introducing – The New “Silver Screen” Glashutte Original SeaQ Chronograph Monochrome
Glashutte Original SeaQ Chronograph Unveiled Sep 4, 2024

Introducing – The New “Silver Screen” Glashutte Original SeaQ Chronograph

Unveiled in 2019, the SeaQ Collection by Glashutte Original, part of a range named Spezialist, took us by surprise for many reasons. First, it marked the comeback of GO into the sports watch category, something the brand overlooked for some years. Second, its overall design was inspired by a vintage dive watch from the GUB […]

Introducing: The Longines Legend Diver Goes Terracotta, Gray, And Green Fratello
Longines Legend Diver Goes Terracotta Sep 4, 2024

Introducing: The Longines Legend Diver Goes Terracotta, Gray, And Green

We were all quite excited here at Fratello when Longines announced a new 39mm version of the Legend Diver last November. Not only did we love the new dimensions, but the omittance of the date was also met with applause here. With a denim-like blue and a black version on offer, something told us more […] Visit Introducing: The Longines Legend Diver Goes Terracotta, Gray, And Green to read the full article.

First Look – The Impressive Louis Moinet Speed of Sound, With Vintage Valjoux 88 Inside Monochrome
Louis Moinet Sep 4, 2024

First Look – The Impressive Louis Moinet Speed of Sound, With Vintage Valjoux 88 Inside

With Jean-Marie Schaller at the helm, Louis Moinet navigates the seas of haute horlogerie with a distinctive style marked by its impressively staged mechanical movements, exotic materials and flamboyant styling. Louis Moinet’s latest port of call will appeal to fans of the legendary Valjoux 88 calibre, brought back to life onboard the Speed of Sound. […]

Alarm Watches: A Complete Guide to the Most Underappreciated Watch Com Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 4, 2024

Alarm Watches: A Complete Guide to the Most Underappreciated Watch Com

If we're ranking watch styles by everyday practicality, it's hard to beat the alarm watch. Most of us are regularly needing reminders of appointments, events, and other commitments, and to have the source of such audible alerts right on your wrist, rather than buried in a pocket or a handbag, would seem to be the height of practicality even in today's high-tech world. Around the middle of the 20th Century, many watchmakers agreed and began to embrace the style, but alarm watches never achieved anywhere near the widespread popularity of other complications like chronographs and GMTs. Nevertheless, the alarm watch has played a significant role in horological history, and a handful of important brands have not only been instrumental in its creation and development but continue to rely on it as a major pillar of their collections today. Here is the story of how the mechanical alarm watch came to be, how it became a signature style of certain watchmakers, and how it continues to evolve today despite its niche status in the industry.  Johannes Dürrstein, regarded as the inventor of the alarm watch  Watches with alarm functions go back farther into horological history than most probably realize. Johannes Dürrsstein, a watchmaker in Glashütte, Germany, invented the first mass-produced, alarm-equipped pocket watch caliber in 1900. Dürrstein’s invention used an extra-long mainspring that could fuel both the timekeeping and the independent alarm hand, which was activated by a...

The Omega × Swatch MoonSwatch - Now Available For Purchase Online! Fratello
Omega × Swatch MoonSwatch - Sep 4, 2024

The Omega × Swatch MoonSwatch - Now Available For Purchase Online!

Surprise, surprise! Swatch will offer the Omega × Swatch Speedmaster MoonSwatch for sale online in the United States and China starting today. Most likely, the brand chose these countries because they have huge areas without any Swatch boutiques nearby. But while they are the first, with some luck, they won’t be the last. The online […] Visit The Omega × Swatch MoonSwatch - Now Available For Purchase Online! to read the full article.

Introducing – The Hanhart Preventor HD12, the Brand’s Vision of a Robust Everyday Watch Monochrome
Sep 4, 2024

Introducing – The Hanhart Preventor HD12, the Brand’s Vision of a Robust Everyday Watch

The everyday watch… The go-anywhere-do-anything watch… The allrounder… The one-watch collection… A key player for brands that want to widen their audience, and yet a highly complex topic. A company specialising in pilot chronographs, Hanhart has shown consistency in recent years with superbly designed models inspired by the past and fair prices to remain competitive […]

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Lex’s Picks From Grand Seiko, IWC, And Zenith Fratello
Grand Seiko IWC Sep 4, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Lex’s Picks From Grand Seiko, IWC, And Zenith

With €10K to spend, I decided to play it safe on the brand side and a little wilder on the color side. That’s why I ended up with a furiously red Grand Seiko, a sinister black IWC, and a Zenith that makes me slightly indecisive: do I decide on the version with the green or […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Lex’s Picks From Grand Seiko, IWC, And Zenith to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Casio G-Shock Rainbow Brick Wall Collection Fratello
Casio G-Shock Rainbow Brick Wall Sep 3, 2024

Hands-On With The New Casio G-Shock Rainbow Brick Wall Collection

One of the most recognizable elements of the early G-Shocks is the famous brick-wall pattern. Did you know the pattern was deliberately chosen to emphasize the toughness of G-Shock’s timepieces? It’s a fun visual play on one of the brand’s key features. G-Shock has created six new references with a rainbow brick pattern to celebrate […] Visit Hands-On With The New Casio G-Shock Rainbow Brick Wall Collection to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Praesidus DD-45 “Patina” Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Lemania Longines IWC Omega Sep 3, 2024

Hands-On: the Praesidus DD-45 “Patina”

The muggy jungle of the South Pacific was no place for weak watches. As World War II raged through the early 1940s, Allied troops found themselves trailing behind the production capabilities of their Axis counterparts, and manufacturing on the homefront turned all attention to the war effort. Civilian-spec’d watches were not going to cut it in either theater of operations – the elements were too brutal for delicate equipment of any kind. Military necessity being the timeless innovator it is, the British Ministry of Defense (MoD) committed to finding robust timekeeping options for the Allies that could be produced as quickly as possible. The specifications were stringent and twelve brands were tapped for the task: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania, Longines, IWC, Omega, Record, Timor, and Vertex. Among many other things, the watches were to have a black dial, Arabic numerals and be housed in a stainless steel case. The time would be made legible with the help of luminous indices and hands – care for a little radium, anyone? Every watch was marked on the caseback with triple Ws: Wrist Watch Waterproof. The diameter ranged in sizes, depending on the brand, with Longines at the larger end of 38mm and IWC and Omega on the small side at 35mm. These watches are widely considered to be the first true field watches, as we know field watches today.  The entire set, one watch from each of the twelve brands selected for production, is a collection-grail for ...

Introducing – The AP Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph in new Shades of Grey Monochrome
Audemars Piguet collection Sep 3, 2024

Introducing – The AP Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph in new Shades of Grey

Introduced in 2020, a year after the debut of the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection, the Flying Tourbillon Chronograph’s combination of two complications with an openworked dial was designed to showcase the brand’s high-end watchmaking skills. The latest iteration of this model comes in a two-tone white gold and black ceramic case and an […]

The New Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière Puts Glowing Blocks of Globolight Center Stage Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière Puts Sep 3, 2024

The New Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière Puts Glowing Blocks of Globolight Center Stage

The upward trajectory of Christopher Ward in the eyes of enthusiasts and collectors has been well documented over the last few years. The Bel Canto, of course, completely changed the game for the brand, and was an announcement to the broader watchmaking community of something ardent supporters have known for quite some time: that the team at Christopher Ward is capable of real outside-the-box thinking, and has an ambition to tweak expectations far beyond that of most brands in their price range. They have periodically introduced watches since that in one way or another qualify as what you might call “statement pieces,” or watches that seem to exist for the purpose of shifting the community’s expectations around the brand. The Twelve X, introduced earlier this year, is a perfect example, and I’d also point you toward a personal favorite of mine, the C1 Moonphase, which works as an art piece the same was some of the watches created by my favorite high end independents. Their latest offering, at least on the surface, is perhaps not as paradigm shifting as any of the watches mentioned previously, but it’s still generating an awful lot of chatter online for a series of dramatic improvements to just about every feature of a core offering from Christopher Ward: the dive watch.  The Trident collection, Christopher Ward’s dive watch range, is now in its 15th year, and the new C60 Trident Lumière is described by the brand as the pinnacle of the series to date. There ar...

Alpina Launches the Alpiner Extreme Skeleton Worn & Wound
Citizen Watch family Sep 3, 2024

Alpina Launches the Alpiner Extreme Skeleton

For more than 140 years, Alpina has made a name for itself as a premier watch brand for sportsmen and adventurers alike. Now under the Citizen Watch family, the Swiss brand continues to bring to market exciting watches that often punch way above their weight class. Take, for example, the latest release by the brand: the Alpiner Extreme Skeleton. Coming in two references, depending on the strap chosen, these watches mark an interesting advent for the brand: marrying sports watch performance with a skeletonized dial in one.  Every millimeter of this Alpiner iteration has been consciously redesigned for both aesthetics and performance. It’s hard to talk about this watch without mentioning the namesake skeleton architecture of the watch. Of course, the lack of a proper dial gives us a peek into the inner workings of the movement; it’s the small finishes throughout the watch that make it truly impressive. Take, for instance, the finishing on the movement that alternates between satin and polished surfaces. Or the hour markers applied by hand to the crystal, giving them a floating appearance against a dialless backdrop. Or the luminescent hands which tie it all together and remind one that this is, first and foremost, a sports watch. It’s all packed into a compact and wearable 39mm x 40.55 mm cushion case. Noted earlier, this watch comes in two references. The first (AL-520GSKT3AE6B) is a monochromatic gray variant that’s inspired by the Alpine foothills. This reference...