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Revolution
The Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein BR 03-94 KRONO 22 is the chronograph model of the Grail Watch 4 Trilogy. Housed in a 42 x 42mm matte black ceramic case with a multi-colored palette for the pushers, crown and hands, it is the most maximalist expression of Bell & Ross and Alain Silberstein’s design […]
Revolution
The Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein BR 03-92 MARINE 22 is the dive model of the Grail Watch 4 Trilogy. Housed in a 42 x 42mm matte black ceramic case depth rated to 300m with a bi-colored ceramic bezel and dual guard pieces for the crown, it is the toughest configuration of Bell & […]
Revolution
The Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein BR 03-92 KLUB 22 is the time-only model of the Grail Watch 4 Trilogy. Housed in a 42 x 42mm matte black ceramic case with a pared down ampersand logo and only three hands, it is the most distilled expression of Bell & Ross and Alain Silberstein’s design […]
SJX Watches
We’ve gone through the year’s best watches from independent watchmakers and establishment brands, as well as the most notable complications. Nearly all of the watches on those lists, however, are pricey. So now we round up the best affordable watches of the year, namely those under US$5,000. Put another way, these are the best value proposition of 2022, both in nominal and relative terms. As has become the norm, Tudor is shoo-in when it comes to value propositions. A streamlined version of its deep-sea dive watch, the Pelagos 39 is compact, lightweight, and minimalist. The case is 39 mm and all titanium, while the dial does away with the date but includes a line of red text in a nod to vintaged dive watches. While much about the watch has been simplified, the details of the Pelagos 39 are fancier than usual. Both the dial and bezel insert are radially brushed – a matte metallic finish for the dial and brushed ceramic for the bezel – giving the Pelagos 39 a more reflective finish than its peers. When it comes to dress watches, the Longines Master Collection “190th Anniversary” is amongst the best, particularly at its US$2,000-ish price. It features a dial that appears to be highly elaborate with Breguet hour numerals that appear to be hand engraved. Naturally the dial is made by machine, but it is done convincingly enough that has a strikingly appealing aesthetic. Thanks to the dial, the watch certainly punches above its price segment. And like many Longin...
Deployant
French independent watch releases two modestly priced watches with meteorite dials - a 39mm stainless steel case and a 41mm carbon/ceramic watch.
SJX Watches
After a two-decade hiatus, Audemars Piguet has revived the wandering-hours complication with the Code 11:59 Starwheel. The latest addition to the collection installs the distinctive complication in the Code 11:59, a model initially criticised but now often praised, and combines it with a blue aventurine dial that’s matched with a two-tone, black ceramic and white gold case. Initial thoughts The reintroduction of the Starwheel in the Code 11:59 is an interesting proposition that is well timed. It is interesting because it combines the modern proportions and style of the Code 11.59 case with a once-neglected complication. In that sense, the watch embodies a key familiar direction in contemporary watchmaking: reinterpreting of a vintage classic for today. Even though the formula is familiar, the new Starwheel is different enough that it will no doubt be polarising. The relatively large case diameter of 41 mm compared to the compact 1990s models means the new model will probably not appeal to fans of the original, but it will surely bring a new audience to the complication (and perhaps enlarge the pool of clients for the Code 11.59). And it is well timed because Starwheel watches from the 1990s enjoyed a rise in popularity alongside the broader jump in interest in watches of all sorts during the last two years. So the brand’s revival of the Starwheel reflects its awareness of today’s tastes. It also reveals that AP is paying attention to the comings and goings on th...
WatchAdvice
Pros: Bold rugged designContrasting golden bronze case with the deep blue dial and bezelNumerous strap options as standard to interchange the look Cons: The Nato strap makes it wear higher on the wrist, as not as flush as we would likeIt’s a larger watch so not for the faint of wrist Date wheel in white, not blue to blend in with the dial Overall Rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 7.5/10 Design: 9.0/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 Rado is one of those brands that does fly a little under the radar, in this writer’s opinion. They have always had good watches, and when it comes to different design materials, like ceramic, they’re up there with the best. I bought my wife a white Rado True Thinline in full ceramic about ten years ago, and it still looks as new as the day I bought it. She loves it and wears it all the time, and is quartz and keeps perfect time (until the battery goes dead, that is!) Which makes me think, why then do guys not think about Rado as they do other mainstream Swiss brands? Maybe it’s because they don’t put giant amounts into marketing with celebrities. Or maybe we’re all too caught up on the hype watches to look elsewhere? In any case, I’ve had the good fortune to try on a few Captain Cook variants this year, and I think Rado is a winner with this model line. A Watch Line Named After An Adventurer For those that don’t know, the Captain Cook line goes back to 1962 and was aimed at doctors, engineers, athletes, deep sea di...
Revolution
From 22 to 30 October, IWC is holding an exhibition featuring its partnership with Top Gun and its incredibly popular colored ceramic pilot’s watches. Jeremiah met with IWC’s Chief Design Officer, Christian Knoop to take a first look at the exhibition and explore the brand’s world of color and Top Gun. We also got to […]
SJX Watches
Twenty-twenty two has been all about the Pilot’s Watch for IWC, but with a particular focus on materials, including coloured ceramics and titanium. All that materials tech, watchmaking, and military provenance is now on show in Singapore with Monochromatic Top Gun. Taking place from October 22-30, 2022, the exhibition showcases the brand’s aviator’s watches – including rarely-seen watches made for actual military pilots – along with its watchmaking knowhow in a series of classes and talks. The centrepiece of the exhibition is the all-ceramic line of Pilot’s Watches named after the US Navy’s fight jet academy, Top Gun. Historically available only in black, the Top Gun collection has more recently become a platform for IWC to roll out a range of coloured ceramics. Naturally the show includes the year’s new launches, namely the Top Gun chronographs in forest green or white ceramic. Earlier models such as the Miramar with its sand-coloured ceramic case are also on show, along with the quintessential all-black version. Notably, the exhibition also includes 15 military-issue watches, each bearing a unit insignia on the dial, in perhaps its most intriguing section. Rarely seen since they are only available to members of the individual air force and navy units, such watches reflect the fact that the Schaffhausen watchmaker is the sole official supplier of watches to the US Navy and Marine Corps. As a result, IWC has created watches for some 350 squadrons, includin...
SJX Watches
Despite a rocky reception when Audemars Piguet debuted the line in 2019, the Code 11.59 collection is gaining traction, especially after several facelifts that bestowed smoked dials, two-tone cases, as well as open-worked movements on the line. Continuing the evolution – and improvement – is the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon that combines white gold and black ceramic in a novel two-tone case. More striking is the unexpected simplicity of the dial, which is a polished expanse of onyx stone, resulting in the most striking version of the model to date. Initial thoughts Since the launch of the collection, most Code 11.59 model have been redesigned in a manner that is somewhat formulaic, though the results have been attractive. The makeovers usually involved brighter dial colours or new materials, like the recent Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon that got an aventurine glass dial. In comparison, the latest redesign is a surprise that proves less is more. Stark and minimalist yet far from plain, the onyx dial easily sets the watch apart from its peers in the collection. It does that by streamlining the dial, even removing the Arabic numerals that are a signature element of the Code 11.59. Aside from the onyx dial, I also like the smart application of coloured accents. Though it is mainly in silver and black, it has just the right amount of rose gold details in just the right places to give it warmth and a bit of a vintage feel. And the black is also smartly utilised...
Time+Tide
IWC’s recent partnerships with Pantone, Orlebar Brown, Hot Wheels and more have yielded a variety of takes on different models from their collection. Their latest collaboration sees a green-tinged, effort bound in leather, rubber and ceramic, as Filling Pieces, a Dutch footwear brand, pay tribute to IWC’s “Woodland” Pilot’s Chronograph, released at this year’s Watches and … ContinuedThe post IWC and Filling Pieces create the perfect watch + sneaker pairing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
In collaboration with Sincere Haute Horlogerie in Singapore, Lang & Heyne presents a new Georg SHH Edition with a special ceramic dial.
Time+Tide
When Doxa released a ceramic limited edition of their legendary Army watch with Watches of Switzerland, we all knew it would be a matter of time before this thrilling design would be made available to the masses. While it’s expected that some production models will modernise reissues to some extent, the Doxa Army offers the … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The retro thrills of the Doxa Army are back in full production appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Created for the 50th anniversary of Cortina Watch, which is also marking the occasion with a special Patek Philippe Calatrava, the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary is an elegantly different take on Blancpain’s vintage-inspired dive watch. With a titanium case matched with a bezel and crown in fade-resistant Sedna gold, the Cortina edition dresses up the functional style of the ordinarily no-frills Bathyscaphe. Originally launched in 2013 as the entry-level – and most compact – model in the Fifty Fathoms collection, the Bathyscaphe was previously only available in single materials, making this two-tone version a first. In fact, the Bathyscaphe Cortina the first Blancpain dive watch with a bi-metal case, but it’ll probably not be the last since the combination is appealing. The hands and hour indices are also 18k Sedna gold Initial thoughts The Bathyscaphe is a handsome watch that has good proportions. It doesn’t feel as large as it measures and wears well. And it is especially lightweight in titanium, so it sits easily on the wrist. In its original variants the Bathyscaphe is muted (in either the steel, ceramic, or titanium versions), or expensive and shiny (in Sedna gold). The Cortina edition is a useful variation on the theme that’s still restrained, but with a little bit of shine. The Sedna gold accents work especially well on the watch because of its retro style. They bring to mind vintage dive watches with “gilt” dials. Admit...
SJX Watches
A French watchmaking startup founded in 2017 that successfully reimagined several well-known vintage designs, Baltic has just unveiled highest-spec dive watch to date – and arguably its most contemporary design. While still clearly vintage-inspired in terms of aesthetics, the Aquascaphe Titanium does better than its predecessor in terms of materials, construction, as well as water resistance. The result is a more substantial watch that’s pricier but still value minded. The bezel insert is brushed ceramic with luminous markings Initial thoughts For a brand that’s heavily reliant on vintage watches for insrpaiton, the Aquascaphe Titanium is a welcome departure from its other offerings. Granted it still retains a retro feel, but does so with materials that are decidedly modern, namely ceramic and titanium. On the subject of materials, one aspect that distinguishes the new Aquascaphe is the highly-domed sapphire crystal that calls to mind PlexiGlas found on vintage watches. Rarely found in modern dive watches at this price, most of which utilise flat crystals, the domed crystal results in slight visual distortion of the dial’s edges, which might not help legibility but certainly adds to the vintage feel. Another key detail that contributes to the appealing vintage styling is the all-brushed finish on both the case and bezel, along with the tasteful typography, which speak to the brand’s attention to detail. At the same time, the design that combines smart details w...
SJX Watches
Breitling’s recent releases have stuck to a familiar and effective formula – watches rooted in the brand’s heritage but updated to distinguish them as modern and original, exemplified by the redesigned Chronomat and Navitimer. Now the brand has taken the covers off the Superocean Automatic, a dive watch inspired by the SuperOcean Slow Motion chronograph of the 1960s. While it borrows the original’s two-tone dial and massive, oblong markers, the new Superocean is a clean, time-only watch with no complications and of course a modern construction that includes a ceramic bezel insert as well as quick-adjustment clasp. The SuperOcean Slow Motion ref. 2005 Initial thoughts I’ve always liked past versions of Superocean with bright-coloured dials because they were quite different from other dive watches without being overly fancy. By the same token, I like the latest version as the redesigned dial makes it stand out even more, once again without trying to do too much. No date is great In fact, the Superocean is arguably all about design. Being ETA powered, it is less competitive against offerings from similarly-priced offerings from likes of Tudor (which relies on more sophisticated Kenissi movements), so the Superocean has to excel in terms of look and feel. And it manages to do so with the combination of an extra-wide chapter ring around a “mini” dial, a bold and handsome design that is unlike most of its peers. Aside from the overall design, the dial also appe...
Time+Tide
It’s not often that a grey watch is released to fanfare, but given Hublot’s history of often colourful ceramic releases, it’s actually quite cool to see a reminder of what they can do with old fashioned metal. Although metal may be an unusually standard material for a limited-edition Hublot release, the Hublot Big Bang Unico … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Essential Grey appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Each day, when you step outside, it is always great start to a morning to look up and see a clear blue sky. As a master of materials, Hublot has captured that essence within their ceramic with this dreamy hue that’s adjacent to Tiffany blue. Sky blue is not a new hue for Hublot, but … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: It’s never overcast with the new Hublot Big Bang Integral Sky Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Doxa re-issues their rather rare and mytical watch known simply as "Army". This time in a ceramic case and in collaboration with Watches of Switzerland.
Time+Tide
As a materials expert, Hublot has done it all. Steel, titanium, carbon, proprietary precious alloys, and ceramic and sapphire in endless colourways. So, to say that there is now an opportunity to grab a watch from Hublot in an uncommon material may come as a bit of a surprise. But, the truth is Hublot does … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Classic Fusion 45mm Bronze Brown Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This Watches & Wonders, Hublot delivered another head-turning collection with a new square case shape, a fresh array of coloured ceramic pieces and another collaboration with pop artist Richard Orlinski. Check out this video with Andrew and Jeremy for their hot take on the brand’s 2022 novelties. Square Bang With the Hublot Square Bang, the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Hublot show it’s hip to be square with a brand new case shape amongst their 2022 novelties appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Last year, Zenith’s Head of Product, Romain Marietta admitted he was “shocked” by the runaway success of the Chronomaster Sport. “We knew it would be big, but not this big,” he told us. Frankly, at Time+Tide we were less surprised by the wave of excitement engulfing this ceramic-bezelled beauty. After all, Zenith had effectively created … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Zenith doubles down on the Chronomaster Sport line appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Bell & Ross is back with another square instrument watch in black ceramic, but this time taking a sharp turn away from its traditional emphasis on no-nonsense, military-inspired style. Instantly different from the typical B&R; offering, the BR 03-94 Multimeter prioritises colours and shapes, sacrificing the legibility in favour of style – which is not actually a bad thing. Initial thoughts The BR 03-94 Multimeter is ostensibly an instrument. The multi-scale dial can measure heart rate, respirations, or speed of travel for three forms of locomotion. But that’s how it works in theory. It’s filled with an overload of colours, letters, and numbers, providing the wearer with five different scales to go with the chronograph, including three types of tachymetric scales, one each for running, biking, and driving. Admittedly all that is more for aesthetic effect that practical usage. The dial isn’t the easiest to read, especially when driving or biking, but it certainly looks cool. It’s strikingly different from the usual military-inspired look of B&R;, which can be monotonous. Multi-scale The various scales on the dial are highlighted in different colours – orange, bottle green, white, pale green and forest green. And each scale is accompanied by its own base and unit indicator, so the wearer can use the watch as a measuring device when the scale is read in tandem with the running chronograph seconds hand. While the look is poles apart from the fighter jet instrument o...
SJX Watches
Last summer Tudor introduced several Black Bay variants such as the Fifty-Eight 925 and METAS-certified Ceramic. Though one of the most affordable amongst the year’s new launches, the most unique was arguably the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze. While bronze is not a new material for Tudor – the brand has unveiled several bronze dive watches in the past – it’s a first for the compact Black Bay Fifty-Eight (BB58) and also the first instance of a bronze bracelet. Given the popularity of the standard Fifty-Eight in steel, it leads to the obvious question: is the Fifty-Eight in bronze interesting enough to differentiate itself from its predecessors? Initial thoughts With the original BB58 has proven itself a winner, it is logical that Tudor builds on its success with a new palette, case material, and even minor improvements to the case construction. Though it is a Fifty-Eight in name, the Bronze is a very different watch. For starters, it is the first Tudor dive watch with a bracelet that isn’t steel. More usefully, the bronze bracelet incorporates a newly-developed, micro-adjustment clasp for easy sizing on the fly. While bronze isn’t rare amongst dive watches in general, it is unusual for Tudor, so credit should be given to the brand for its choice of case material. Tudor doubles down on the material by taking the bold step of using bronze not just for the case but also the bracelet, making this one of the few watches with a bracelet in the metal. Bronze is popular ...
SJX Watches
Perhaps the most surprising launch of the year so far, the Bioceramic MoonSwatch is a collaboration between Swatch and the maker of the Speedmaster Professional. The MoonSwatch is essentially Moonwatch “lite” – it has all the key details such as lyre lugs and a Velcro strap, but a quartz movement and small price tag. And the MoonSwatch is next level in terms of range. Whereas the original Moonwatch is mostly black, Swatch offers almost dozen variants of the MoonSwatch, each dedicated to the most significant bodies of the solar system, such as the Sun, Moon, and Mars. The MoonSwatch “Mission to Mars”, a tribute to the Speedmaster “Alaska Project” but with the entire case in bright red ceramic Initial thoughts The MoonSwatch is an exemplary crossover because its encapsulates the specialties of each brand. Combining the quintessential cheerful style of Swatch with Omega’s iconic Moonwatch results in a fun, lighthearted watch that’s very affordable. But it’s also a shocking product because the two brands are poles apart in terms of positioning and pricing. Put simply, an Omega strap costs more than the average Swatch watch. Swatch is clearly the winner. It’s an especially shrewd move for the maker of plastic watches, since some of the prestige and historical significance of Omega rubs off onto Swatch. As for Omega, it’s a purposeful act of brand dilution, no doubt in the hope that it brings the brand to a new audience that will aspire to own the real d...
SJX Watches
A year ago, Citizen debuted its first all new, high-end mechanical watch in decades, The Citizen Caliber 0200. A wristwatch par excellence, the Caliber 0200 was so good that it was one of our tops watches of 2021. Now Citizen is following up with the Caliber 0200 “Japanese Armour”, the first limited edition of the model that’s available globally. Topped with a black ceramic bezel and textured dial, the samurai-inspired Caliber 0200 has a low-key aesthetic that still distinguishes it from the all-steel models. Initial thoughts Even though production hasn’t yet caught up with demand – there’s still a waiting list for the watch – the Caliber 0200 is still a niche product, just because it is a high-end, mechanical offering from a brand better known for its solar-powered or quartz watches, and mostly affordable ones at that. So a limited edition makes sense, since the small run will boost desirability and create buzz worldwide (Citizen did launch a 50-piece limited edition last year that was sold only in Japan). That said, the new edition is still very much a restrained design that’s almost monochromatic. It’ll be one of those watches that are recognised only by those in the know. Interestingly, both the new limited edition and the standard model stick to the same palette – grey, silver, and black – with the difference between the two being the quantity and intensity of each colour. On the limited edition, black becomes the dominant colour thanks to the ...
SJX Watches
In 2021, Omega revamped its ubiquitous Moonwatch, giving it a thorough makeover that included an upgraded movement in the form of the Master Co-Axial cal. 3861. This year, Omega follows up with the Speedmaster Moonwatch 42 mm Moonshine Gold. Omega’s proprietary pale-yellow gold alloy, Moonshine Gold was developed to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Moon landing, so it comes as no surprise that the alloy has made its way into the latest-generation Speedmaster with the cal. 3861. The “panda” dial in solid Moonshine Gold with black registers Initial thoughts The Speedmaster Moonshine Gold Speedmasters are possibly the most striking version of the latest Moonwatch (though the Canopus Gold is a close second). Both iterations of the Speedmaster Moonshine Gold are in popular colours; green is currently hot and while Omega may not score points in originality, the brand is delivering what the market wants at the moment. That said, the execution of the new Speedmasters is done well. The restrained use of modern material such as ceramic for the bezel insert gives the watch a polished yet traditional look, allowing it to retain the essence of its bestselling model. Put simply, it still looks like a Speedmaster Moonwatch, which is what matters. And the unique, pale yellow tone of Moonshine Gold gives the new Speedmaster a slightly vintage look, albeit one with elements that are clearly modern. At the same time, the colour of the metal allows for a subtlety in appearance in spi...
SJX Watches
Very much a genre that took off in the 1970s, the digital-display quartz watch was invented by American watch company Hamilton in 1970 – and positioned as a high-end watch at the time – and over the following decades various watchmakers from Europe and Asia have presented their own takes on the digital watch, though it is the latter that has come to dominate the market. One of the more memorable was the Girard-Perregaux ref. 9931 “Casquette” of 1976 that was especially sci-fi with its aerodynamic design. But after a brief production run it vanished from the brand’s catalogue until a surprising comeback last year with a unique, modernised version made for charity auction Only Watch 2021. And now Girard-Perregaux (GP) has finally taken the covers off the Casquette 2.0, which replicates the style of the original but with updated tech and materials, namely a ceramic and titanium case along with a new movement. Initial thoughts The Casquette 2.0 is a remake done well. It retains the appealing design of the vintage original, which was a good looking but dinky watch, and instead channels resources to improving the construction and functions. The new scratch-resistant ceramic case and bracelet demonstrates GP’s effort in a thoughtfully improved remake, especially since similarly priced watches tend to rely on black-coated steel. At the same time, the watch has improved in its function. It gains a chronograph and a second time zone, both of which are rudimentary but n...
Time+Tide
The future. It’s always here before you know it. And in an industry based on the anachronistic idea of the mechanical timepiece, Swiss watchmakers Hublot have always looked forward. From their striking, sometimes polarising designs, their forays into the connected watch world with the Big Bang E, and their use of cutting-edge materials like ceramic, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Ledger is inspired by cryptocurrency appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A young brand established only in 2018 – but backed by noted industry figures – Norqain is best known for sports watches equipped with high-quality movements produced by Kenissi, the manufacture owned by Tudor and Chanel. At the higher end of the brand’s offerings is a dual-time watch with a ceramic bezel insert and patterned dial that was introduced just last year in steel. Now it gets a luxe facelift, resulting in the Adventure Neverest GMT 41mm Steel & Gold. Available either with rubber strap or steel bracelet Initial thoughts The all-steel Neverest GMT a straightforward, agreeable proposition: practical functions backed by a solid movement, while boasting a fairly elaborate case and dial. Yet such features aren’t enough in today’s market since extras like a ceramic bezel are almost the norm. Despite its strong execution in terms of fit and finish, the original Neverest GMT lacked a punchy aesthetic, with its styling seeming a bit derivative. That’s changed with the two-tone model. The addition of a modest quantity of pink gold gives the watch a more upscale feel, especially complemented by the glossy ceramic bezel, resulting in a look more comparable with its competition in the same price range. Two-tone here means the addition of gold details, rather than an excessive use of the precious metal The gold details, however, mean the watch is about 40% pricier than its steel counterpart. At US$5,290 on a strap and more on a bracelet, the two-tone Neverest GMT ...
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