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Balance Wheel

The oscillating wheel at the heart of every mechanical watch.

Urwerk’s Legendary EMC is Back in a Limited Edition Inspired by the SR-71 Blackbird Worn & Wound
Urwerk s Legendary EMC Aug 21, 2024

Urwerk’s Legendary EMC is Back in a Limited Edition Inspired by the SR-71 Blackbird

Ahead of Geneva Watch Days next week, Urwerk has unveiled what will surely be in the running for “Watch of the Year” talk when 2024 comes to a close. The EMC SR-71 is a new variation of one of the independent brand’s most discussed and honored timepieces. The original EMC, introduced ten years ago, is a former winner of the GPHG prizes in both the “Mechanical Exception” and “Innovation” categories. Even within the strange world of Urwerk, the EMC is an oddity, so it’s always exciting to see them return to this platform with a new variant.  EMC stands for Electronic Mechanical Control, a term that seems to contradict itself but actually does a fantastic job of describing exactly what this watch does. What you need to know about how this watch operates is that the traditional time telling functions (hours, minutes, seconds, and power reserve) all operate mechanically. But integrated into the movement is an optical sensor linked to the balance that, on demand, can record the rate at which it is oscillating. Using light and an integrated circuit, the movement will tell you the delta between the timing rate of the mechanical movement and a reference oscillator (a 16,000,000 Hz mega-quartz oscillator in this case). Pressing a button on the side of the case activates a meter at roughly 10:00, telling you how fast or slow your watch is running. What’s more, the watch is equipped with a timing adjustment screw on the caseback that can be accessed by the owner wit...

Hands-On With The Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef IV WatchAdvice
Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef Aug 21, 2024

Hands-On With The Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef IV

In this review, I get a hold of the fourth Aquis rendition commemorating one of Australia’s greatest natural wonders! But is it truly a standout? Let’s find out! What We Love: Dial is unique yet elegant and possibly timeless Wears extremely well Supremely capable movement for the price point What We Don’t: Uniquely coloured dials are always a point of caution Can it come in any smaller sizes? The price point is contentious Overall Rating: 8.6/10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Everyone loves a bit of independence in their lives. Having your own slice of agency signals freedom to do whatever you please – like buying watches, for example – without having to worry too much about the consequences.  But, of course, it’s not that simple. Agency, and by association freedom, can be an elusive thing, which is why we oftentimes find ourselves getting attached to characters, products and brands associated with the idea of finding freedom. Not everyone can break the Matrix like Neo, ‘Just Do It’ like Nike or beat up their boss like Stone Cold Steve Austin, so we live vicariously through those that operate, or are perceived to be operating, on an independent level. In the watch industry, Oris is one of the finest examples of freedom and independence in watchmaking. Having followed their slogan to “Go Their Own Way” since 1904, their perception of freedom is conveyed through their dedication to independent design, techn...

Ming Introduces the Latest Watch from their Special Projects Cave, the Solid Gold 20.01 Series 3 Worn & Wound
Ming Introduces Aug 20, 2024

Ming Introduces the Latest Watch from their Special Projects Cave, the Solid Gold 20.01 Series 3

Ming is a brand that tends to elicit strong reactions from enthusiasts. They are certainly not to everyone’s taste, but those who love the brand really love the brand and are among the most enthusiastic collectors I’ve encountered in the watch world. I’ll be honest, Ming’s house aesthetic is typically not for me, personally, but I’ve gained a tremendous amount of respect for the brand as I’ve had a chance to talk to more owners about they find these watches so interesting. A big part of it, as it always seems to be, is the community built around that ownership experience. That community reveals itself in a public way via Ming’s Special Project’s Cave, a kind of skunk-works segment of the brand that is free to experiment as the brand develops new technologies. As Ming always points out when they release a watch from the Cave, the process always involves input from their customers, so you could think of the watches in this series as a real reflection of the brand’s owners. If that’s the case, their latest creation, the 20.01 Series 3, kind of proves my point about the vibrancy of the Ming community.  At a high level, the 20.01 Series 3 is a precious metal chronograph utilizing the excellent AgenGraphe movement by Agenhor. But when you get closer (and closer) you realize that the 20.03 is perhaps the brand’s most avant-garde creation yet, which is saying something considering some of the projects that have come out of the Special Projects Cave to this p...

You’re Invited to The Worn & Wound West Coast Summer Pop-Up and After-Party hosted by The James Brand! Worn & Wound
Citizen Lōcī Aug 17, 2024

You’re Invited to The Worn & Wound West Coast Summer Pop-Up and After-Party hosted by The James Brand!

Hey Southern California, here we come. Any of you long time Worn & Wound readers will know that The James Brand is a company that’s been near and dear to our hearts for quite some time. They’re known for crafting some of the best everyday tools for modern explorers including utility knives and tools made with premium materials. We’re excited to share that The James Brand has opened a new location in Oceanside, CA! This space features a public retail area that showcases their signature modern, minimal everyday carry products. Join us in celebrating this occasion with an all-day West Coast Summer Pop-up and experience our unique offerings firsthand. The Worn & Wound West Coast Summer Pop-up hosted by The James Brand Saturday, August 17, 2024 12PM – 6PM Pacific The James Brand HQ 425 S Coast Hwy Oceanside, CA 92054 Free and open to the public. In addition to The James Brand and the Windup Watch Shop, several of our favorite watch brands will be there too, including Artefkt, Belmont Watch Co., Brew Watch Co., Citizen, Lōcī, and Zodiac, showcasing their latest and greatest releases available for viewing and purchase. This includes the very last 10 units of TJB’s latest collaboration with Timex: the Limited Edition Automatic GMT in Titanium. On behalf of The James Brand and our other brand partners joining us for this pop-up, we can’t wait to see you all, grab a drink, check out some cool gear, and talk watches. Since this event is free and open to the public, no R...

Hands On: Chanel Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black Edition SJX Watches
Chanel Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black Aug 15, 2024

Hands On: Chanel Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black Edition

First conceived as an auto-racing inspired take on its jumping hour wristwatch, the Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Intense Black Edition is the second iteration of the model. Retaining the same design as the original Monsieur Superleggera, the Intense Black Edition is powered by the Caliber 1, a thoughtfully constructed in-house movement. Italian for “super light”, Superleggera is named after the lightweight body-on-frame race cars of the 1930s, a reference to the ceramic-on-steel construction of the Monsieur case. Initial thoughts The original Chanel Monsieur was proof that “fashion” brands can create watches as good as, or better than, their traditional watchmaking counterparts. I liked it for the fact that the design of both the watch and the movement were cohesive, illustrating an attention to detail – right down to the shape of the balance wheel and typography – that most watch brands lack. The Marble Edition is a particular favourite. A sportier and slightly larger version of the original, the Monsieur Superleggera has a more designed aesthetic with the textured, open-worked dial and crown guards, but the design still remains cohesive. It has just the right amount of detail, including the applied retro “Superleggera” logo. Styling aside, the movement remains the same and excellent. Besides the unusual complications – jumping hours and retrograde minutes in a vertically symmetrically layout – the Caliber 1 has a distinctive construction that show...

Insight: The Geometric Efficiency of Escapements SJX Watches
Aug 5, 2024

Insight: The Geometric Efficiency of Escapements

Mechanical escapements remain the most fascinating and enticing field of horological study even in the 21st century. At its core, an escapement has a simple purpose: restore lost energy to the oscillating organ while regulating the discharge speed of the going train – thus allowing for time measurement. Straightforward as the concept is, executing an escapement well is a completely different affair. The escapement is perhaps the element of the mechanical movement that has undergone the most iterations since its invention. The reason is simple: escapements were, and remain, imperfect systems. In fact, the escapement is often the least efficient aspect of a mechanical movement in terms of energy transfer. That’s why watchmakers and engineers have devised innumerable variants in the search of the ideal escapement.  Explaining escapement efficiency In physics the efficiency of a system is the proportion of useful work done relative to the total work done by said system. The result, measured as a percentage, speaks to the energy conserved within the system. For example, an 80% efficiency means that 20% of the total available energy is lost, with the remaining 80% usefully conserved.  That said, an efficient escapement isn’t necessarily chronometrically-potent, since there are more criteria, apart from energy conservation, which reflect in a movement’s accuracy. The way in which escapement parts impulse to the balance, the proximity of the equilibrium point and the deg...

The Watch I Didn’t Buy: Crossing Financial Thresholds Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko we’ve been lusting over Aug 3, 2024

The Watch I Didn’t Buy: Crossing Financial Thresholds

Watch budgeting is a funny thing. For most collectors, it involves a significant amount of mental gymnastics as money is moved in and out of an imaginary bank. We say things like “sorry, no funds in the watch bank” when our friends are selling a watch we don’t want to buy. But when Jomashop is offering a deal on that Seiko we’ve been lusting over, funds are magically ready for immediate withdrawal. Sometimes this is because we’ve recently sold some watches and actually have a positive balance in the watch bank. But often, we buy that new Seiko on “credit” with a self-promise to liquidate the current collection to restore financial balance.

Bulova Precisionist: The Most Underrated Movement in the Watch Industr Teddy Baldassarre
Hamilton had introduced Aug 1, 2024

Bulova Precisionist: The Most Underrated Movement in the Watch Industr

Newcomers to the watch appreciation game can be forgiven for reflexively, and solely, crediting the Japanese with bringing electronics into the mainstream of the watch industry, but the embryonic phase of the technology took place in the United States. And the most accurate electronic movement on the market today emerged from the synergy between one of America's most historic home-grown watch manufacturers and one of Japan's most innovative pioneers of timekeeping technology. It's called the Precisionist, it's exclusive to Bulova, and while you may not have heard of it or know much about it, it's becoming a fixture in several Bulova watches that increasingly demand enthusiast attention. Bulova, founded in New York City in 1875 by Bohemian immigrant Joseph Bulova, was one of the first watchmakers in the world to seriously explore the development of electronics in wristwatch movements. In 1960, just a few years after another American watch manufacturer, Hamilton, had introduced its flawed but groundbreaking electric-powered Ventura (more on that here), Bulova unveiled its own high-tech timepiece, the Accutron Spaceview 214. The watch took its numerical designation from its movement, Caliber 214, a revolutionary mechanism in which the balance wheel, which drives the timekeeping in a mechanical movement, was replaced by a tuning fork, powered by a one-transistor electronic oscillator. This system ensured an oscillation rate of 360 hertz - nearly 150 times faster than tha...

The Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300 GMT Updates the Brand’s Signature Diver Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300 Aug 1, 2024

The Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300 GMT Updates the Brand’s Signature Diver

New from Christopher Ward, we’ve got news of the latest addition to their Trident line-up. The C60 Trident Pro 300 GMT marks the return of the complication that’s been a favorite among brand enthusiasts. Originally released just a year after the original Trident, this four-handed watch quickly found its way as the preferred watch for those travel and sports-minded among us. Now, the C60 Trident Pro has returned and is better than ever. Coming in three colorways (light blue/blue, white/blue, and turquoise/yellow), the watch remains refined in details without ever veering into the “dull” category. In fact, Christopher Ward’s confidence in the Trident series shines through when there is so little decoration to take away from the balance of this watch’s overall design. The watch is stripped down to the essentials, making it one that, when it comes to performance and wear, really speaks for itself. Each colorway is complemented by a 40 mm stainless steel case and a corresponding bezel. A bi-color ceramic bezel is available for the blue models, while a steel relief bezel for the turquoise option. And with three bracelet options to choose from, it’s the subtle variations which show the thoughtfulness behind the C60 Trident Pro 300 GMT. This reference runs on a Sellita SW330-2 automatic movement, offering a 56-hour power reserve. The movement is visible through a sapphire crystal caseback, allowing enthusiasts to appreciate its inner workings. Getting back to the roo...

Hands-On: the Bravur Team Heritage Collection Worn & Wound
Bravur Jul 23, 2024

Hands-On: the Bravur Team Heritage Collection

I didn’t learn how to drive a car until I was 25 years old. This was partially motivated by the same frugality that draws me to budget watches, but mostly because bikes offered fun and freedom that cars simply couldn’t compete with. Whether running a quick errand as fast as my legs could carry me without fear of a speeding ticket or riding 100 miles in a single day just for the hell of it, bikes took me everywhere I needed to go. Representing simpler years filled with adventure, cycling was the only hobby that truly captured my heart in the same way watches do today. Though bikes are worth obsessing over and have their own enthusiast community not unlike watches, they have their limitations and mine went into the garage (which I suddenly needed for an old beat-up Volvo) when my daughter was born. It gathered dust, fell victim to tire rot, and was eventually forgotten all together due to its inability to house a growing number of car seats. It was around this same time I was bit by the watch bug, which in retrospect is no coincidence. Last year, cycling made an unexpected re-emergence in my life. I binge watched Tour de France: Unchained on Netflix, learning about different teams, seeing the colorful jerseys they wear, and getting a crash course in how much cycling has changed since I last checked in. Coincidentally, it was at this same time that my friends started pestering me to join them on the trail. Fun fact, did you know you can buy an entire bike for the price of...

[VIDEO] Twin Peaks: How Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan Use their Peak Design Everyday Backpacks Worn & Wound
Jul 23, 2024

[VIDEO] Twin Peaks: How Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan Use their Peak Design Everyday Backpacks

Back in February, Kat Shoulders and Zach Kazan emptied their tech pouches onscreen, in a video that showed you how each of them packs for a trip to the office. Today, the next logical step: Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan are emptying out their backpacks. But whereas our tech pouch video featured two very different packs, this one shows how Zach and Zach have arranged their gear in the same backpack, the Peak Design Everyday Backpack.  The Peak Design Everyday Backpack is notable for the way it can be customized by the user. Designed primarily for photographers, the backpack is fitted with three interior separators that effectively can be used shelves to store gear on. These “shelves” can be shaped and positioned in any number of ways, depending on what the backpack needs to carry, and they can be accessed from both sides of the pack and the top (via a unique magnetic panel).  Zach W. and Zach K. are using their backpacks in very different ways, illustrating the versatility of the design. For Zach W. this has become a true everyday backpack, and he fills it with those indispensable items that are needed on a daily basis. For Zach K., it’s more of a travel backpack, and he’s set it up for easy train commutes and hassle free flights.  Let us know in the comments if you’re a Peak Design Everyday Backpack user, and how you’ve set yours up to make the most of its flexible design. And if you’re not, let us know about your ideal everyday backpack.  The post [VIDEO] Tw...

Hands On: De Bethune DB28xs Purple Rain SJX Watches
De Bethune DB28xs Purple Rain Almost Jul 22, 2024

Hands On: De Bethune DB28xs Purple Rain

Almost a dress watch done in sci-fi style, the most compact version of De Bethune’s trademark model gained a striking new look this year with the DB28xs Purple Rain. Clad entirely in purple – or more accurately, titanium heat treated to purple – the DB28xs Purple Rain is distinctive and striking because of its sheer colour. Though the colour is novel for De Bethune, the watch incorporates many of the brand’s signature design elements, including a “starry sky” dial and the DB2005 movement with a proprietary titanium and white gold balance wheel. Initial thoughts De Bethune didn’t invented flame-blued titanium, but the material has become something of the brand’s signature. It has been used extensively across its product line, arguably so much that it’s not as novel as it was. De Bethune later tried titanium heated to a bronze-gold finish, but that doesn’t have the vivid hue of blue. Titanium that’s been flamed to purple, however, is as vivid as blue. And the finish is still fairly unique, since it has only been applied to the DB28xs Purple Rain as well as a handful of one-off creations. As a result, while the Purple Rain is only a colour variation of an existing model, it is usually compelling because it is both different and striking. Because it’s essentially the same material as blued titanium, purple titanium will likely have the same durability. Like the blued finish, the purple is actually a thin oxide layer on the titanium that’s created by t...

Parties, Panels, and Pizza! All the Events During Windup Chicago 2024 Worn & Wound
Jul 9, 2024

Parties, Panels, and Pizza! All the Events During Windup Chicago 2024

This time next week we will be recovering from another exciting Chicago Windup Watch Fair full of great memories from our third annual trip to the Windy City. With over 60 brands showcasing the latest and greatest in watch releases from around the globe, we’d understand if you have already put together your plan of brands to visit during your time at Venue West. Update those plans because the Windup Lineup of Panels and events just dropped! As a reminder for those unfamiliar with Windup Chicago 2024, here are the key details for this free and open to the public event. Venue West – 221 N Paulina St, Chicago, IL 60612 Friday, July 12: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, July 13: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, July 14: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public Free parking available across the street from the venue As always, we work closely with our editorial team and our Lead Sponsors to craft engaging panels for audiences to get even deeper looks into the wonderful world of watches. We always make sure to include a bit of time for Q&A; as well. Beyond panels, be sure to stay around the venue for meetups, happy hours, and extra surprises to come throughout the weekend. Take a look below at the schedule and be sure to join Worn & Wound+, our free Slack community to get the latest and greatest Windup news over the weekend.  Thursday, July 11, 2024 Chicago Windup Watch Fair Opening Reception 6:00 PM – 8:00 PM *MUST RSVP TO ATTEND* To celebrate Windup’s return to the Windy City, we’ve teamed...

Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119G Vs. 5212A - Two Entryways Into The World Of Contemporary Patek Philippe Fratello
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119G Vs 5212A Jul 9, 2024

Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119G Vs. 5212A - Two Entryways Into The World Of Contemporary Patek Philippe

There is so much to say about Patek Philippe, arguably the most significant and venerable watchmaker in high-end Swiss watchmaking. The brand certainly displays a mastery of complications. Perhaps even more relevant to today’s watch industry, Patek Philippe also expertly balances tradition with modernity. While the brand is famous for creating traditional, subdued, understated luxury, […] Visit Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119G Vs. 5212A - Two Entryways Into The World Of Contemporary Patek Philippe to read the full article.

REVIEW: Hands-On With The Seiko Prospex Marinemaster WatchAdvice
Seiko Prospex Marinemaster Jul 8, 2024

REVIEW: Hands-On With The Seiko Prospex Marinemaster

In this latest hands-on review, we look at Seiko’s Prospex Marinmaster, a reinterpretation of the brand’s first-ever 1965 diver’s watch. What We Love: The mix of brushed and polished surfaces on the case, bracelet and dial The dial pattern and colour are stunning in person. Open case back showing movement for the first time in a Seiko diver. What We Don’t: The bracelet clasp design is not suited for high-end Seiko divers. Open case back could show more of the movement. The date window could have been placed better for a more balanced dial view. Overall Rating: 8.6/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Seiko first introduced a trio of Prospex Marinemaster models in late 2023. These timepieces merged two of the brand’s best heritage diver timepieces, the Marinemaster from 2000 and the classic first-ever Seiko divers watch, the 1965 62MAS. Combining two signature designs to make a brand new modern diver’s timepiece. The 2023 Prospex Marinemaster models showcase Seiko’s renowned craftsmanship and dedication to creating excellent dive watches. The collection uses a rugged design along with beautiful dial aesthetics to make it known that it can be used as both a tool watch and a daily wearer. The Prospex Marinemaster also uses the iconic Seiko watch designs from the above-mentioned references. Original 1965 62MAS Diver watch (left) vs modern re-interpretation Save The Ocean Limited Edition (right) Seiko is well known ...

IAMWATCH in Singapore, an Independent Watchmaking-Centric Event SJX Watches
Urwerk Florian Bédat Jul 5, 2024

IAMWATCH in Singapore, an Independent Watchmaking-Centric Event

Singapore retailer The Hour Glass is staging IAMWATCH over four days in October 2024. The event is conceived as a gathering for watch enthusiasts with notable independent watchmakers in attendance, including Felix Baumgartner of Urwerk, Florian Bédat and Gaël Petermann, Kari Voutilainen, Raúl Pagès, and Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia. IAMWATCH will serve as a platform for face-to-face engagement between watch enthusiasts and noted industry personalities like Aurel Bacs, Jean Arnault, Maximilian Büsser, and Pierre Biver, providing enthusiasts opportunities to connect and learn. The event includes presentations, lectures, and fireside chats with more than 40 industry insiders. IAMWATCH will be held at the Singapore Edition hotel. Admission is free and open to the public daily October 18-20, from 11 am-8 pm, however, registration is required and it can be done online at Iamwatch.com.  

Our Summer Sale is Kicking Off! Worn & Wound
Oris or want Jun 27, 2024

Our Summer Sale is Kicking Off!

We’ve just started our Fourth of July sale and can’t wait for you to browse the site and get your hands on the latest and greatest from your favorite brands. With discounts as high as 25%, you’re sure to find the next part of your collection. But that’s not all to look forward to. In addition to the limited time deals and free domestic shipping, we’ve activated some great Gift With Purchase offers this Holiday. Whether you’ve had your eyes on that Oris or want to add a next-level G-SHOCK to your collection, here are three items to sweeten your purchase. We’ve just started our Fourth of July sale and can’t wait for you to browse the site and get your hands on the latest and greatest from your favorite brands. With discounts as high as 25%, you’re sure to find the next part of your collection. But that’s not all to look forward to. In addition to the limited time deals and free domestic shipping, we’ve activated some great Gift With Purchase offers this Holiday. Whether you’ve had your eyes on that Oris or want to add a next-level G-SHOCK to your collection, here are three items to sweeten your purchase. The post Our Summer Sale is Kicking Off! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Photo Report: The Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 London Exhibition Fratello
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 London Jun 26, 2024

Photo Report: The Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 London Exhibition

One fantastic aspect of living in London is that big events happen here. Museums, auction houses, and boutiques put on amazing displays for locals and visitors. Best of all, most of these shows are free and take place in lovely locations. Roughly three weeks ago, I had the opportunity to visit the Patek Philippe Rare […] Visit Photo Report: The Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 London Exhibition to read the full article.

The Roundup: A Nostalgic Watch Made of Recycled Material, Some New W&W; Merch, And a Multitool That Won’t Pry Open the Piggybank Worn & Wound
Jun 24, 2024

The Roundup: A Nostalgic Watch Made of Recycled Material, Some New W&W; Merch, And a Multitool That Won’t Pry Open the Piggybank

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The post The Roundup: A Nostalgic Watch Made of Recycled Material, Some New W&W; Merch, And a Multitool That Won’t Pry Open the Piggybank appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Oris Introduces What Might Be the Ideal Enthusiast Focused Divers Sixty-Five Worn & Wound
Oris Introduces What Might Be Jun 20, 2024

Oris Introduces What Might Be the Ideal Enthusiast Focused Divers Sixty-Five

The Divers Sixty-Five has been a staple in the Oris collection since 2015. In the near decade since its inception, we have seen many iterations. Many of these have been community-driven, and there have also been collaborative projects with multiple prominent media outlets and retailers. It would be an understatement to say that Oris has its finger on the pulse of the watch world, and their latest offering proves just that. New for 2024, they are introducing the Divers Sixty-Five 400 in 38mm. The great thing about being an independent watch manufacturer is the freedom to do what they believe is right. For some time, they have been asked to make a Divers Sixty-Five with the Calibre 400 movement, without a date display, in the enthusiast favorite 38mm size, and that’s exactly what this is. It is made of stainless steel and comes with a matching monochromatic unidirectional bezel with a minute scale in relief. Not only does the Calibre 400 offer 120 hours of power reserve, but it also comes with a class-leading 10-year warranty and 10-year service intervals. The watch is only available with the rivet-style stainless steel bracelet and features a vibrant green dial. It has a diameter of 38mm, a thickness of 12.6mm, and a lug width of 19mm. The watch is in-house regulated to be accurate to within -3/+5 seconds per day, which exceeds COSC tolerances. The movement is visible through the screw-down exhibition case back, and it is water-resistant up to 100m. This new model fulfill...

The Roundup: Enamel Dials, Invaluable Tools, and Timeless Classics Worn & Wound
Jun 9, 2024

The Roundup: Enamel Dials, Invaluable Tools, and Timeless Classics

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great bang for buck. Upgrade Your Kit highlights indispensable everyday carry gadgets. When You Have Too Many Watches is all about accessories and peripherals for your watch collection. Last but not least, the Deal of the Week is a limited time bargain that you will not want to miss. Don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop Rewards Program to save and earn points with every purchase. The Windup Team is also available to schedule a consultation or demo with you to answer any questions you may have. Now, all items from the Windup Watch Shop are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US! The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great bang for buck. Upgrade Your Kit highlights indispensable everyday carry gadgets. When You Have Too Many Watches is all about accessories and peripherals for your watch collection. Last but not least, the Deal of the Week is a limited time bargain that you will not want to miss. Don’t forget to join...

Business News: Sam Hines (Re)Joins Sotheby’s SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 2526 Jun 8, 2024

Business News: Sam Hines (Re)Joins Sotheby’s

Sotheby’s has just announced that Sam Hines will be Chairman of Watches, the top job in the watch and clock department, starting end June 2024. Mr Hines (pictured above left) will be based in Hong Kong, where he has lived for over a decade. Having been expected by the industry for several months, Mr Hines’ new role sees him to return to a traditional auction house four years after he left Sotheby’s to join online auctioneer Loupe This. Mr Hines was also a freelance consultant during that time and continued to work with Sotheby’s. He was instrumental in securing several high-profile timepieces for the auction house, including the Patek Philippe ref. 2526 with movement number 760’000 that once belonged to J.B. Champion and sold for over US$731,000 including fees earlier in 2024. Alongside Mr Hines’ appointment, Sotheby’s also announced the promotion of Geoff Hess (above right) to Global Head of Watches. Previously the head of department in the Americas, Mr Hess will continue to be based in New York. Prior to joining Sotheby’s in August 2023, Mr Hess was a watch specialist the Phillips.  

REVIEW: Hands On With The New Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph WatchAdvice
Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Jun 7, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The New Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph

IN PARTNERSHIP: Almost 2 months ago at Watches & Wonders, Zenith released a chronograph version of their highly popular Defy Skyline – The Defy Skyline Chronograph and we thought let’s see how they compare to the OG. What We Love The edgy look, true to its DNA Quick change strap & bracelet system Accuracy of the 1/10th chronograph What We Don’t Clasp can irritate the wrist on the rubber Still no micro-adjust for the steel bracelet On the larger side and may not be for all wrists Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 The Zenith Defy Skyline is no stranger to me. In fact, I’m very familiar with both the brand as well as the Defy Skyline having the Blue dial version as part of my collection. So, when I heard that Zenith were adding a chronograph version to the Skyline collection, part of me was curious as to how they’d look and wear, the other part was really looking forward to seeing them in person upon their release. And if I’m honest, part of me was interested in how they would compare to my Defy Skyline, which if you’re interested in comparing this review to my Owners’ Perspective, feel free to read it here. The Zenith Defy Skyline in blue – a good-looking piece if I say so myself! Initial Impressions Our first experience with the new Defy Skyline Chronograph was a brief one – amidst the chaos that is Watches & Wonders and at the Touch and Feel Session with the full range of Zenith’s laun...

Dads and Grads Sale 2024: Father’s Day Gift Guide Worn & Wound
Seiko SNE039 as Jun 5, 2024

Dads and Grads Sale 2024: Father’s Day Gift Guide

When it comes to watch collecting, sentimentality is king. Rarity, value retention, and specifications all matter, but it’s often the watch that was either given as a gift or passed down that stands the test of time. (Such is the case with yours truly, who received a Seiko SNE039 as a gift from his granddad ten years ago, which has kicked off a passion culminating in writing what you are reading at this very moment.) So as Father’s Day approaches and our DADS AND GRADS SALE is live, we thought we’d put together a gift guide for the dad, grandad, or father figure in your life. From durable watches and clocks and gear, to slick storage options, these should provide a great starting point and inspiration. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. When it comes to watch collecting, sentimentality is king. Rarity, value retention, and specifications all matter, but it’s often the watch that was either given as a gift or passed down that stands the test of time. (Such is the case with yours truly, who received a Seiko SNE039 as a gift from his granddad ten years ago, which has kicked off a passion culminating in writing what you are reading at this very moment.) So as Father’s Day approaches and our DADS AND GRADS SALE is live, we thought we’d put together a gift guide for the dad, grandad, or father figure in your lif...

Dads and Grads Sale 2024: Grad Gift Guide Worn & Wound
May 29, 2024

Dads and Grads Sale 2024: Grad Gift Guide

As graduation season comes to an end, we thought we’d throw one more gift guide down the hatch during our DADS AND GRADS SALE to offer inspiration and ideas. New graduates take on a new world full of adventure and hope, and these products should help them settle nicely and tackle whatever comes their way. The Windup Watch Shop sends all the new grads out there a hearty congratulations and best wishes for what’s ahead! As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. Furthermore, all of the products listed here are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US.  As graduation season comes to an end, we thought we’d throw one more gift guide down the hatch during our DADS AND GRADS SALE to offer inspiration and ideas. New graduates take on a new world full of adventure and hope, and these products should help them settle nicely and tackle whatever comes their way. The Windup Watch Shop sends all the new grads out there a hearty congratulations and best wishes for what’s ahead! As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. Furthermore, all of the products listed here are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US.  The post Dads and Grads Sale 2024: Grad Gift Guide appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Up Close: Philippe Dufour Duality No. 3 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Offshore models selling easily May 29, 2024

Up Close: Philippe Dufour Duality No. 3

The most significant example of independent watchmaking in Phillips’ upcoming New York sale is Philippe Dufour Duality no. 3 in white gold. One of just nine made, this Duality is unusual in several respects. For one, it is delivered with two dials, each representing one of Mr Dufour’s trademark style – silvered and a white lacquer resembling enamel. Besides being an exceptionally rare watch, this Duality is also significant for its provenance: the current owner is both a gentleman and a collector with a discerning eye. In fact, he recognised the importance and appeal of the Duality well before most others did. At the time he bought this watch, now almost 20 years ago, a Philippe Dufour Simplicity was selling for barely more than a Lange Datograph. In fact, there were sought-after Panerai and Audemars Piguet Offshore models selling easily for more than a Simplicity. The owner’s discerning and forward-thinking taste in watches can also be inferred from his other watches in the sale. Amongst them is an F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain ref. TN – with a special-order 38 mm case instead of the conventional 40 mm, as well as a matched, three-piece set of the F.P. Journe Vagabondage in platinum. A tribute to the Vallée Launched in 1996, the Duality is one of the two landmark double balance wheel watches in contemporary watchmaking, alongside the F.P. Journe Resonance that debuted four years later. While the Resonance is arguably more abstract and inventive in its concep...

Time Through the Ages, Part 2: Abraham-Louis Breguet’s Genius of Invention Worn & Wound
Breguet s Genius May 28, 2024

Time Through the Ages, Part 2: Abraham-Louis Breguet’s Genius of Invention

Editor’s Note: Time Through the Ages is a four part series written by Andrew Canter, member of the British Horological Institute, Alliance of British Watch & Clock Makers, and the British Watch & Clock Makers Guild. In this second installment, Andrew examines the life and career of Abraham-Louis Breguet, inventor of the tourbillon and many other important watchmaking advancements. For more from Andrew, check out his work at Mr. WatchMaster.  Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747–1823) was a designer, inventor, and watchmaker. Being a master craftsman in the field of watchmaking earned him a prestigious clientele that included Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, alongside other international nobility, and the elegance and technical innovations of his designs were considered the height of style and fashion. Portrait of Abraham-Louis Breguet. Image courtesy of Manufacture Breguet Breguet was born in Neuchâtel on the 10th January 1747, but it was in Paris that he spent most of his productive life. He is credited with the development of the successful self-winding perpétuelle watches, the introduction of the gongs for repeating watches, the first shock-protection for balance pivots and of course the tourbillon. Every watch that left his workshops demonstrated the latest horological improvements in an original movement, mostly fitted with lever or ruby-cylinder escapements that he perfected. He was a great entrepreneur and marketed his magnificent watches brilliantly. Perhaps his most ...

Obituary: Antoine Simonin, WOSTEP Director, Educator, and Bookseller SJX Watches
May 28, 2024

Obituary: Antoine Simonin, WOSTEP Director, Educator, and Bookseller

Antoine Simonin (1938-2024), who died on May 20 at the age of 84, left his mark on generations of watchmakers and watchmaking enthusiasts. He will be best remembered as the director of WOSTEP (Watches Of Switzerland Training Educational Program) from 1976 to 2003. Simonin was a person obsessed with the transmission of watchmaking knowledge, and sought to make WOSTEP an instrument for the international dissemination of watchmaking mastery. Founded in 1966, WOSTEP sought to train watchmakers capable of maintaining and repairing Swiss-made watches according to the standards laid out by their makers, the Swiss watch industry. Over time, its courses have been taught in English, French, German, Japanese, Swedish, and Mandarin. “I studied at WOSTEP under Antoine Simonin in 1987 and 1991,” says Peter Speake, the watchmaker best known for founding Speake-Marin, “He was instrumental in keeping WOSTEP going during that difficult industry period, subsequently influencing the careers and friendships of many watchmakers, directly and indirectly, playing a significant role in the lives of many crossing multiple generations.” Recounts another student, Paul Francis Madden, now himself an instructor at WOSTEP, “I was a student in 1987, back when the staff at WOSTEP was only Mr Simonin and his wife Josiane… It came to showing him my first hairspring… He slowly spun my balance wheel in his callipers, scrutinising it for what seemed like an eternity, and all without saying a sing...

Five Must-Have EDC Picks Under $100 Worn & Wound
May 24, 2024

Five Must-Have EDC Picks Under $100

EDC continues to grow as part of what we enjoy and feature here in the Windup Watch Shop for many of the same exact reasons we love watches. We appreciate usable, practical tools that can evoke feelings of both romance and adventure. What’s more, EDC is often even more varied and affordable than the average timepiece, making everyday carry gear an exciting complement to our watches. Today we look at five EDC picks that are not only must-haves; they are all under $100. And now they are all eligible for free domestic shipping in the US. Take a look and happy trails! EDC continues to grow as part of what we enjoy and feature here in the Windup Watch Shop for many of the same exact reasons we love watches. We appreciate usable, practical tools that can evoke feelings of both romance and adventure. What’s more, EDC is often even more varied and affordable than the average timepiece, making everyday carry gear an exciting complement to our watches. Today we look at five EDC picks that are not only must-haves; they are all under $100. And now they are all eligible for free domestic shipping in the US. Take a look and happy trails! The post Five Must-Have EDC Picks Under $100 appeared first on Worn & Wound.