Deployant
Throwback Sunday: Six luxury steel sports watches with bracelets
6 iconic stainless steel luxury sports watches: from Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Girard-Perreguax, Chopard and A. Lange & Sohne.
Results for Integrated Bracelet
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Deployant
Time+Tide
The ultimate watch glossary - beginner’s edition, from bezels to bracelets
Editor’s note: Watches can be intimidatingly confusing things, full of obscure parts with funny names. In this first part of our ongoing series ‘The ultimate watch glossary’, we start things off nice and slow with some entry-level terms. Even if you’re all over these terms, this page is perfect for sharing with your watch-curious buddies … ContinuedThe post The ultimate watch glossary – beginner’s edition, from bezels to bracelets appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Upgrades the Datograph Perpetual
A. Lange & Söhne is closing the year in style with the Datograph Perpetual (ref. 410.136E), but now with baguette-cut diamonds for the hours and a five-link platinum bracelet in a style that will definitely please enthusiasts. A compilation of greatest hits that is spot-on for today’s tastes, the new Datograph Perpetual adopts the classic Datograph dial but with a bit of bling. Likewise the bracelet takes after the now-popular Wellendorf bracelets of the 2000s – but with a refined and solid modern construction that allows for easy sizing. Initial thoughts Like some other recent Lange limited editions, this upgraded Datograph Perpetual is easy to like. The makeover is a cosmetic rather than technical one, but it is as good as it gets as facelifts go. The movement inside is the still the L952.1 that’s based on the first-generation Datograph movement. Given how it looks, I would not complain. Notably, the bracelet enjoys the biggest technical upgrade. Though it resembles the bracelets made by Wellendorf for Lange way back, this is actually an Odysseus bracelet in disguise. It has the same modern-day construction and amenities, meaning a robust construction with buttons for convenient link removal. Wellendorf bracelets, in contrast, are pretty but essentially jewellery bracelets on a paired with a very heavy watch, and I doubt they will have the longevity of this one. An example of the first-generation Datograph on Wellendorf bracelet Visually, the dial takes after the ...
Monochrome
Introducing - Maurice Lacroix Refines the Aikon Automatic Chronograph for its Tenth Anniversary
Introduced in 2016, the Aikon collection has become a cornerstone of Maurice Lacroix’s catalogue, combining an integrated design with sporty details and accessible Swiss mechanics. Initially available with quartz movements, the collection added automatic versions in 2018, including the Automatic Chronograph. Now, ten years after the Aikon’s debut, Maurice Lacroix revisits its automatic chronograph with […]
Monochrome
First Look - Tissot Pumps Up and Opens Up the PRX for Damian Lillard
The PRX is one of Tissot’s defining collections, offering an accessible take on the integrated design inspired by the 1970s watches, with contemporary proportions and mechanics. The popular concept takes on a different form with the new PRX Skeleton Damian Lillard Special Edition. Created with the NBA player known as “Dame Time”, this second PRX […]
WatchAdvice
(Hands-On) Is Zenith’s Chronomaster Revival A384 Terrific In Tropical?
Zenith’s latest addition to the Chronomaster Revival line directly references its heritage models, but can the beauty of age be replicated? Let’s find out! What We Love: Old-world cues in a sepia tone Retro yet wearable case profile Ladder bracelet perfect for hotter temperatures What We Don’t: Sharp clasp still needs improving No hacking seconds Be old or look old? Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 7.5/10 Just like us, watches get old. But vintage watches occupy the same space as old cars, Renaissance art, George Clooney and Anne Hathaway, in so far as they’ve aged gracefully. And while everyone wants a piece of that prime beauty, not everyone can get their hands on it. So too is the case for the original Zenith Ref. A384, first introduced in 1969 as the brand’s first-ever high-beat chronograph. Establishing the foundations for generations of Zenith watches to come, the A384 has since become a legend, rarely seen outside the upper echelons of vintage watch collecting. Getting your hands on one is near-impossible these days, as unfortunately we can’t rewind time to when their price tags was equivalent to peanuts. But what if we could fast-forward? That’s what Zenith asked itself when it introduced the Chronomaster Revival A384 in 2019. The first reference faithfully recreated the original A384 as if it had just rolled off the factory floor, with the iconic ladder bracelet following in 2020. This l...
Deployant
New: Biver AB - their first steel time only watch
For the first time in its short history, Biver releases a three hand watch in stainless steel with a steel bracelet. Here is the Biver AB.
SJX Watches
The Biver AB is Time Only and All Quality
Having found critical and commercial success with the Automatique, Biver is continuing with the time-only format, but (slightly) more accessibly. The Biver AB is a manual-wind, three-hand watch, but keeping to the high-end approach of the Automatique. The presentation is discreet but precious. While the dial and movement are solid gold, the case and bracelet are steel. The bracelet is notable for being the same as that found on the Automatique, and is arguably amongst the best in class. Initial thoughts I am a fan of the Biver Automatique and was a little sceptical of the idea of a more accessible time-only watch. The AB, however, surprised on the upside. Like the Automatique, it is executed extremely well. The dial, for example, is an extremely fancy interpretation of the “sector” dial, rendered in onyx and yellow gold. The bracelet adds to the appeal significantly as well. It’s essentially the same bracelet found on the Automatique, but in steel. The facetted links are impressively finished, and more importantly, sit comfortably on the wrist. Pulling off a bracelet that is both functional and finely done is an achievement in itself. That this is standard kit for the watch adds to the appeal. The movement is a little less elaborate than that in the Automatique, but remains tangibly high end; it even has a grande sonnerie-style winding click. All the details are attended to, with bonus decorative flourishes here and there. Though a three-hander, the movement is fairl...
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
De Rijke & Co. Makes the Capri Collection a Permanent Fixture of Its Catalog with Three Staple Colorways
At Windup last fall, De Rijke & Co. made a surprise unveiling of the Capri collection, marked by its distinctive ultra-thin rectangular case, unique curved sapphire crystal, integrated shrouded lugs, and stone dials. As the year went on, the brand made an official announcement about the line, launching a poster challenge featuring hidden Easter eggs and offering further previews at other industry events like Milan Watch Week. As the calendar page turned to 2026, pre-orders for the anticipated limited edition Capri finally opened for the initial iterations in black onyx, black aventurine, and blue capri produced in just 50 pieces each. Now, the brand ushers the model into its permanent catalog with three new dial colors: champagne, salmon, and silver. Within each dial variant, there is a balance of subtle nuances and stylistic throughlines. Each version carries a fine textured frosted dial composition that catches and diffuses the light, bringing out the broader spectrum of tones within each of the neutral colorways. De Rijke & Co. has made this effect deliberately subtle. Rather than relying on gloss or decoration, the dials reveal themselves through the curvature across the dial and crystal that’s a defining feature of the Capri. However, each dial shade also has its own cheeky personality. The salmon model offers a fresh take on a hue used throughout the history of watchmaking. Here, the warm pink tone is brought to life thanks to the contrast of the deep blue strap an...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Jaeger-LeCoultre 101 Chain
What We Know There's a new miniature watch in town, and it's the Jaeger-LeCoultre 101 Chain. Inspired by a 1955 Duoplan model nicknamed the "Chain" for its "braided" gold-link bracelet, the new high-jewelry watch reinterprets that design with a sculptural 18K pink-gold bangle. It features diagonal bands that alternate between black HyCeram (a high-gloss ceramic material) and rows of brilliant-cut diamonds, offering a contemporary take on the original's sinuous chain motif. The bangle is cast in a mold made specifically for each watch, with 36 cavities filled by hand with liquid HyCeram. A master gem-setter then drills and sets the alternating diagonal bands with brilliant-cut diamonds. The finished bangle frames a diminutive watch with a black lacquered dial, which has a "JL" monogram above the hour and minute hands, all surrounded by a diamond bezel—bringing its overall diamond weight to an approximate 2.73 carats. But despite all the jewelry surrounding it, the real star is the Calibre 101, the world's smallest manually wound mechanical movement. The story dates back to the Duoplan, which was invented and patented in 1925, before JLC introduced the Calibre 101 in 1929 using the same two-level architecture (hence the name "Duoplan"). At just 14mm long, 4.8mm wide, and 3.4mm thick, the movement weighs barely a gram, and remarkably, its dimensions and architecture remain unchanged nearly a century later. Today, each movement takes around 40 hours to assemble by hand, maki...
WatchAdvice
Hands-On Review: The Raymond Weil Millésime Jubilee Opens A Stunning New Chapter
I take the new Raymond Weil Millésime Jubilee hands-on to see how the bi-compax anniversary edition compares with the existing Tri-Compax Chronograph! What We Love: Bi-compax layout gives the signature Millésime sector dial more room to shine The model retains the exceptional wearability of the Millésime chronographs Carries defining traits of “The Fifty” into a more accessible format What We Don’t: No date display for those who may prefer the added practicality No steel bracelet option! 12.9mm thickness may be substantial for those who prefer slimmer chronograph proportions. Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.8/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Raymond Weil, like many other watchmakers, went through some turbulent times during the COVID-19 era. However, as is often the case, periods of adversity can inspire some of the most creative and important work. This was certainly the case with Raymond Weil, as it was during this period that the Millésime collection was born. While the collection was introduced in 2023, its development and design began a few years earlier. The brand wanted to create a new expression of its watchmaking identity, bringing together its history with accessible contemporary watchmaking. The word “Millésime” literally translates to “vintage” or “vintage year” in French, directly reflecting the collection’s inspiration from watches produced between the 1930s and 1960s. View this post on Instagram A pos...
Monochrome
First Look - Pequignet Releases a New Royale Paris Chronograph with a BPM Tempo Tracker
Pequignet was founded in 1973 in Morteau, the historic heart of French watchmaking in the Jura mountains. In the early 2000s, the brand made a bold decision to become an integrated French manufacture and launched its first in-house Calibre Royal in 2011. The brand’s fortunes stabilised in 2021 when it joined Enowe Excellence, a family-owned […]
Fratello
Five Rolex Watches For Those Thinking Outside The Box
Say “Rolex” to most people, and their mental image is fully formed before you finish the sentence — a Submariner, maybe a Datejust on a Jubilee bracelet, something that has been photographed on a thousand wrists. For some enthusiasts, that image is precisely the problem. Rolex has produced plenty of watches that never made it […] Visit Five Rolex Watches For Those Thinking Outside The Box to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Piecing it Together: The Dennison ALD Elements brings 1970s glamour to the wrist
The Dennison ALD Elements pairs a slim 1970s-inspired cushion case with a striking four-stone mosaic dial and bark-mesh bracelet
Monochrome
First Look - Armin Strom Applies the Midas Touch to the New Tribute³ Au750
Armin Strom has conquered the indie watchmaking scene with its combination of mechanical inventiveness and striking asymmetric displays. As a fully integrated manufacture, Armin Strom can bring its wildest mechanical dreams to life, including its groundbreaking mastery of resonance. Knowing that not everyone can invest in its hyper-complex Resonance and Masterpiece models, Armin Strom created […]
Monochrome
First Look - Vacheron Constantin Celebrates 30 Years of Overseas Special Edition Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
The story of the Overseas begins in 1977 with the sporty-chic integrated 222, Vacheron Constantin’s bold response to a new generation of luxury sports watches represented by the Royal Oak and the Nautilus. Inheriting certain traits of the 222 but amplified and beefed up, the first-generation Overseas debuted in 1996. Now in its third phase, […]
WatchAdvice
Hands-On Review: Going Green With IWC’s Ingenieur 42 Green Ceramic
IWC went green this year with the Ingenieur 42 Ceramic, and while we thought the black was good, this could be better! What We Love: The shade of green ceramic works extremely well The gold accents elevate the watch nicely The finish & light play make this a standout on the wrist What We Don’t: Still, the lack of the quick-link adjustment system on the bracelet The 42 mm case size may not suit all wrist sizes and types A full ceramic watch may not be for everyone, or suit some people’s lifestyles Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 When IWC released the black ceramic Ingenieur last year, I was pretty impressed with how well the watch worked in the metal, or ceramic, I should say. The Ingenieur is already a very distinctive design, and creating it in ceramic could easily have changed the proportions or feel of the watch, but IWC managed to retain what makes the current Ingenieur work while giving it a completely different feel on the wrist. IWC CEO Chris Grainger-Herr talked to us about this last year, and how much research and development went into making a 42mm-sized ceramic version to mirror the proportions, look and feel on the wrist as the standard steel 40mm. It was an interesting chat, which you can read all about here. It’s not easy being green, as the frog once said! But maybe, in this case, it is! Not content to rest on its laurels, IWC released a green ceramic version for Watches & Wonde...
Monochrome
First Look - The new Nivada Grenchen F77 MKII 100 Years Brings Stone Dials and a More Powerful Movement
Relaunched in 2020 under Guillaume Laidet’s creative direction (also behind the Vulcain and Space One brands), now-100-year-old Nivada Grenchen has focused on historical models, updating vintage references without losing their original character. Alongside the Antarctic and the Chrononomaster collections, the F77, inspired by the integrated sports watches of the 1970s, leads the pack. It returned […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Citizen Is Coming for the Rolex Datejust With Its New Affordable Automatic Watch
Citizen’s new Tsuyosa 60 pairs a 37mm case, textured dial, five-link bracelet and 60-hour automatic movement for $595.
SJX Watches
IWC Marks 50 Years of the Ingenieur
IWC’s magnetism-resistant Ingenieur SL is now 50 years old so the brand is marking the occasion with the Ingenieur Automatic 50th Anniversary, a pair of limited editions that unsurprisingly take inspiration from a historical model. In 40 mm and 35 mm respectively, the two editions share the same brushed silver dial. The two are otherwise identical to the regular production versions, which means a sharply executed case and bracelet, but an industrial movement that doesn’t live up to the price. Initial thoughts Today’s Ingenieur is a derivative design, being based on Gerald Genta’s original of the 1970s (which explains the resemblance to the Royal Oak et al). But it is still a good looking watch, with a case and bracelet that are tangibly well done. The 50th anniversary edition isn’t creative by any stretch of the imagination, but still appealing in look and feel. But at launch in 2023 the Ingenieur was already pricey, especially considering the industrial, cost-effective ValFleurier movement. Still, the price then was forgivable given the wider landscape and integrated-bracelet-sports-watch fad. Now the larger, 40 mm version is US$15,000, which is pricey and difficult to rationalise. The 40 mm and 35 mm, both of use employ different but equally industrial calibres SL reborn The anniversary editions are based on the standard 40 mm and 35 mm models respectively. The two are essentially identical in design and quality; both contain different but comparable movements....
Monochrome
First Look - IWC Celebrates 50 Years Of The Genta-Designed Ingenieur SL With Two Ingenieur Automatic Limited Editions
Birthdays are to be celebrated, so it’s no surprise IWC Schaffhausen honours the 50th anniversary of one of its most pivotal watches, the Ingenieur SL. Introduced in 1976 and penned by Gérald Genta, the Ingenieur SL was one of the early adopters of the integrated sports watch ethos. Lasting until the late 1990s, the Ingenieur […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The More Powerful Citizen Tsuyosa 60 Automatic, now in 37mm
Since its launch in 2022, the Citizen Tsuyosa (a Japanese word for strength) has been a strong success for the brand and is now a leading option in the value proposition segment. Originally released in 40mm steel cases with a 3-link steel bracelet and a rough-looking entry-level movement, Citizen has vastly expanded the collection over the years […]
Monochrome
First Look - New Sensations with Hublot’s new Big Bang Original Soft Touch Models
For over two decades, Hublot has embraced the ‘Art of Fusion’, blending unexpected materials like rubber, gold, ceramic, and sapphire into bold visual statements. The latest Big Bang Original Soft Touch pushes the boundaries even further, inviting us to experience how a watch feels. More than just a coating, Hublot has integrated a microscopic, textured […]
Fratello
Gray Ceramic Debuts On Two New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual Time Chronographs
For the first time in the Astron collection, Seiko introduces gray ceramic. The shiny non-alloy appears on the bezel, crown cap, and bracelet center links of two new Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual Time Chronograph watches. While these models share the ceramic parts, they have differently colored titanium components. The HAB007 is the full-gray version, […] Visit Gray Ceramic Debuts On Two New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual Time Chronographs to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Six From Seiko: A Roundup of Amazing Chronographs From the Depths of (Relative) Obscurity
Vintage Seiko, as most collectors know, is a rich tapestry. Once you learn the story of Colonel William Pogue, or try to track down the funky bracelet that Bruce Lee paired with his own Speed-Timer, the wormholes naturally open themselves, each with their own dizzying amounts of reference numbers, specific models, and fun nicknames for the mind to notice and then squirrel away for later. But what about the ones you might have overlooked? Midcentury Seiko chronographs are a riot of design variations, bold patterns, and contrasting color schemes—and all backed by genuine innovation in the guise of the first automatic chronograph, flyback movements with stacked register hands, collaborations with luminary designers, and freakish dabbles with postmodernism. It’s what makes them so much fun to pay attention to. Hence, these six Seiko chronographs that play with the form, proving that even across the decades there are still surprises to rediscover. Not just familiar references, but obscure offshoots. Seiko 6138-8000 “Baby Panda” Seiko’s dual-register chronograph debuted shortly after the 6139, which we all know as the world’s first automatic chronograph. And while both watches represent futuristic seventies design, the slimmer 6139 takes a backseat to this lineup’s exaggeratedly bulky cases and clashing, patterned color schemes that have garnered nicknames like “UFO,” “Kakume” (“square eyes”), and “John Player Special” (a nickname popularized ...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Chronoswiss Pulse GMT
I love the experience of a truly unique watch. A watch that, despite doing what the rest of them do, for all intents and purposes, is still unlike anything you’ve strapped to your wrist. This goes beyond the dial to the case, bracelet, time-telling, movement, etc. It doesn’t have to encompass all of those things, but when it does, it reminds you that there is still creativity in the watch world. The Chronoswiss Pulse GMT is one such watch. It’s almost hard to describe the Pulse GMT. It’s something between an integrated-bracelet sports watch and a conceptual neo-futurist travel thingamajiggy. Frankly, had I been told it was a prop from *Gattaca* or another stylized sci-fi film, I might have believed it. Its lines are fluid and complex, except when they aren’t, touching on biomorphic forms while also speaking to the traditional inspirations the brand was founded on. It’s not an easy watch to digest at a glance, presenting conflicting forms, and yet it works. Well, for me it does, but I like weird watches. And regulators. And weird regulators. Starting with the case and bracelet, though integrated, there is a merging of two concepts. Ignoring the bracelet entirely, the central case measures 41.4mm x ~48mm x 13.6mm to the top of the slightly domed sapphire crystal and draws from the brand’s historical DNA, but mutates it substantially. The coined-edge bezel and caseback become notched instead. Less ornate but still textural, it gives more diver than pocket watch....
SJX Watches
The People Have Spoken: Seiko’s Crowd Favourite 62MAS
Last year Seiko let fans vote on which of four vibrant dial colours would adorn an upcoming diver, and the people made the right choice, picking this vibrant Daytime Blue for the Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver Fan-Selected HBC011. While a bit late to hit the beach, the latest 62MAS homage maintains all that was already good about Seiko divers, namely looks and tenacity, with key upgrades to the bracelet, for a reasonable price. Initial Thoughts Last year marked 6o years of Seiko diver’s watches, which can be traced back to the original 62MAS (refs. 6217-8000 and -8001) launched in 1965. Seiko let the many fans of its diver’s watches decide how to celebrate, giving collectors a choice of four colourways: Sunrise Orange; Daytime Blue; Late Afternoon Green; and Sunset Red. The online poll was open for the entire month of July, which was long enough for me “to get around to later” but short enough that it had already closed by the time I remembered to vote. Unsurprisingly, the trendiest colour, and the one I would have voted for, Daytime Blue, won. From left to right: Sunrise Orange; Daytime Blue; Late Afternoon Green; and Sunset Red. Seiko has disclosed no plans to bring the other three colourways to market at this time. The vibrant blue and stamped dial make the HBC011 stand out from the pack of 62MAS-inspired models, though it changes the character of the watch so entirely that this bubbly beach watch doesn’t feel like a 62MAS at all. Which is a good thing, as the mo...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Christopher Ward Finally Fixed the GMT I Couldn’t Quite Love: C63 Sealander GMT Review
Hands-on with the 39mm Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT, featuring a revised case, updated GMT design, SW330-2 movement, and Bader bracelet.
Worn & Wound
Zenith Goes Back to Basics with Its First Time-Only Chronomaster
Since its inception in 1969, Zenith’s groundbreaking El Primero movement – the first automatic, integrated, high-frequency chronograph caliber – has been synonymous with the classic complication. Now, Zenith takes the essence of this historically significant movement and highlights the high-frequency component with its first time-only application in the Chronomaster line. With the new Chronomaster Solo Sport, form and function go hand in hand. The three-hand display offers a design that is decidedly less sporty than its chronograph counterparts. However, the new collection continues a throughline we’ve seen within the Chronomaster lineup, making it both fresh and familiar to the model family. The Solo Sport has a 40mm build that fits well within the Chronomaster range of 37mm for the vintage-inspired revival models up to 41mm for the standard chronograph sport models. As we’ve also seen in the typical sport models, the Solo Sport models feature a ceramic, unidirectional rotating bezel. Ceramic extends to the dial, which presents a new “Z” pattern. Depending on the version – white, black, or brown – this pattern is engraved on either a sunray-finished white ceramic dial or a polished black or brown ceramic surface. Additionally, the black version is also offered in a no-date variant for a total of four Solo Sport styles. The “Z” motif is repeated once more on the stylization of the seconds hand. The more geometric elements of this dial design continue ...
Monochrome
First Look - The Maurice Lacroix Aikon-IC Frozen Carbon Collection (Incl. Video)
Last year, the highly successful Aikon collection welcomed the next generation of integrated sports watches for Maurice Lacroix, with the Aikon-IC range. With the added “IC” referring to Innovative Craftsmanship, Maurice Lacroix created a playground for colours, materials and finishes, as well as complications, as seen in the Aikon-IC Master Triple Retrograde. The first series […]