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Results for Perpetual Calendar

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Perpetual Calendar

The mechanical calendar that knows leap years automatically through 2100.

Calling All Up and Coming Young Watchmakers SJX Watches
F.P. Journe seeks out Aug 26, 2021

Calling All Up and Coming Young Watchmakers

Every year F.P. Journe seeks out the world’s most promising young clock- and watchmakers and selects one, or sometimes a handful, to receive the year’s F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition prize. The 2022 contest is now open for submissions. Contestants must be between the ages of 18 and 30 years old, and have “independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction”. A jury of industry notables, including Philippe Dufour and Francois-Paul Journe himself, will then decide on the winner, who receives a CHF20,000 grant. This year’s winner was Mario Scarpatetti, who devised a secular perpetual calendar clock. Past winners include Russian watchmaker Anton Suhanov, who has built monumental table clocks, including one with a triple-axis tourbillon within a metal flower, and Remy Cools, who unveiled his first wristwatch tourbillon not too long ago. To enter the contest, submit your entry on fpjourne.com. The deadline for submissions is February 25, 2022.  

A. Lange & Söhne Brings Back the Langematik Perpetual SJX Watches
Casio ns like Jul 13, 2021

A. Lange & Söhne Brings Back the Langematik Perpetual

One of the biggest surprises amongst A. Lange & Söhne’s mid-year launches is the return of the Langematik Perpetual (the other being a Handwerkskunst in an unusual rectangular case). Launched two decades ago, the Langematik Perpetual is the brand’s longest-lived model – powered by the same movement from the start – though it’s been gradually phased out. Having discontinued the gold and platinum versions, Lange then introduced a limited edition in Honey Gold in 2019, and nothing else – until now. The Langematik Perpetual returns back in style as a pair – with a dark blue dial in either a white or pink gold case. Initial thoughts The reintroduction of the Langematik Perpetual is unexpected, especially given the two-year gap between this and the last version. In fact, that already seemed like a farewell model – it was a limited edition in Honey Gold, the proprietary alloy Lange usually reserved for special occasions, like the recent 175th Anniversary “Homage to F.A. Lange”. But the revival of Langematik Perpetual makes sense from a historical perspective, since 2021 marks the 20th anniversary of the model, which was the brand’s first perpetual calendar and a special one at the time of its launch, being the first perpetual calendar wristwatch with an oversized date display. At the same time, it’s heartening to see the return of an exceptionally fine, automatic movement. The cal. L922.1 “Sax-O-Mat” has an off-centre, almost-micro rotor that is in...

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak 34 mm in Black Ceramic SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Unveils Jul 12, 2021

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak 34 mm in Black Ceramic

For its second round of new launches for 2021 – after the headline-grabbing Black Panther watch – Audemars Piguet (AP) unveiled Royal Oak models in a range of sizes and complications. The novelties are, in short, gorgeous variations of the brand’s octagonal watch. One of the most notable is the smallest amongst the new models. For the first time, AP is applying the full-ceramic treatment to a smaller Royal Oak. The Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm Black Ceramic is no doubt good news for enthusiasts who want a more compact but unusual version of the simple Royal Oak (availability notwithstanding). Polished and brushed ceramic Initial thoughts While ceramic has long been synonymous with makers of high-end sports watches like AP, it was used sparingly for the Royal Oak, until four years ago when the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Black Ceramic made its debut. But the all-ceramic Royal Oak models since then have been complicated, including a white-ceramic perpetual calendar or the skeletonised double balance. That makes the 34 mm model in black ceramic a pretty big deal – it’s the first base-model Royal Oak in ceramic. But being a Royal Oak, it still feels familiar, which is a good thing if you like the Royal Oak as I do. Despite being amongst the simplest of Royal Oaks, the new 34 mm model is striking. The pink gold accents on the bezel and dial create the right amount of contrast to break up the monochromatic ceramic, giving the black ceramic a touch of luxe. Consequent...

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C Perpetual Twin CronotempVs Edition SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces Jul 8, 2021

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C Perpetual Twin CronotempVs Edition

Unveiled five years ago, the L.U.C Perpetual Twin is Chopard’s most affordable perpetual calendar, but finely executed as is typical of L.U.C, the brand’s line of mechanical watches powered by top-class in-house movements. Featuring details absent in similarly-priced peers, such a micro-rotor movement and oversized date, the Perpetual Twin has since been iterated into several versions, but the winner is now clear: the L.U.C Perpetual Twin CronotempVs Edition, a collaboration between the watchmaker and eponymous collectors club based in Spain. The CronotempVs edition has a striking palette: dial with an uncommon, grained-gold finish with black sub-dials and indices, giving it a strong, high-contrast look that suits the largish steel case. Initial thoughts Chopard’s prowess in watchmaking is indisputable – its top-of-the-line creations rival even the work put out by best independent watchmakers – but the brand is often overlooked, especially since prevailing fads mean most turn to bigger names or “safer” choices. And it doesn’t help that Chopard generates most of its revenue from cheerful ladies’ watches and jewellery. The L.U.C line stands out for its movements with sophisticated construction and finishing, even for the simplest, entry-level models – demonstrated by the double-chronometer wristwatch unveiled earlier this year. But it still receives a lukewarm reception from the broader market. That’s in part due to the designs, which are often satis...

Only Watch 2021: Breguet Type XX SJX Watches
Breguet Type XX Breguet has Jul 6, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Breguet Type XX

Breguet has an unexpectedly long history in military watches dating back over a century, but its best known military timepieces are undoubtedly the aviator’s chronographs made for the mid-century French Air Force and navy. It was one such watch that inspired the Type 20 Only Watch 2019. For this year’s Only Watch auction, Breguet turned pivoted to the civilian-market equivalent with the Type XX Only Watch 2021. Breguet incorporated details not found on the 2019 watch, namely a “Big Eye” register as well as a 12-hour bezel. Together, this and its predecessor form a perfect pair that encapsulate Breguet’s 20th century pilot’s chronographs. Initial thoughts The result achieved by the Type 20 at Only Watch 2019 – Breguet has supported the charity since its inauguration in 2005 – makes the motivation behind yet another pilot’s watch clear. While the technically-impressive in-line perpetual calendar created for Only Watch 2017 sold for CHF110,000, the Type 20 achieved fetched CHF210,000 – twice as much despite being a steel watch with a simple movement. The Type XX conveniently sticks to the same formula, making it almost interchangeable with the Type 20 at a distance. Most obvious is the milk-chocolate dial, which evokes the aged “tropical” dials of vintage examples. The rich, even colour allows it to stand on its own as a modern-day take on an old look. It’s achieves a nostalgic feel without trying too hard. But it is in exactly the same shade as ...

Only Watch 2021: Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27001M-001 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock Ref Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27001M-001

Departing from its Only Watch tradition of unique versions of current-production wristwatches, Patek Philippe’s contribution to Only Watch 2021 is a desk clock with perpetual calendar modelled on a 1923 original now in the Patek Philippe Museum. The Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27001M-001 is inspired by a desk clock owned by James Ward Packard, the American automobile tycoon who was one of Patek Philippe’s leading clients in the 1920s. Made of sterling silver and vermeil with inlays of American walnut, the clock contains a 31-day movement featuring a perpetual calendar. Initial thoughts Topping the mega, CHF31 million result for the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A at Only Watch 2019 would be hard to imagine since the Grandmaster Chime is the most complicated and expensive watch in the brand’s catalogue. Resetting the counter with a desk clock is a shrewd move since its avoids comparisons with the wristwatch of 2019. That said, the desk clock is actually more unique than anything else Patek Philippe has made in recent memory – it is literally the timepiece of this form that exists. Even the unique Dome Clocks and desk clocks that Patek Philippe offer in its annual Rare Handcrafts line up are based on standard templates. It’s worth noting that the desk clock has a “rose-gold opaline” dial similar to that of the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A, so it might make a nice pair for the buyer of the 2019 watch. Packard’s clock The inspiration for this clock...

Svend Andersen Marks 40 Years with the Jumping Hours Platinum SJX Watches
Jun 9, 2021

Svend Andersen Marks 40 Years with the Jumping Hours Platinum

Andersen Genève turned 40 in 2020 – making the brand one of the longest-established independent watchmakers in Switzerland. The brand is, in fact, a pioneer in the field. Founder Svend Andersen, an octogenarian who was born in Denmark but moved to Switzerland in 1963, set up the AHCI in 1985 alongside Vincent Calabrese. Andersen Genève is best known for inventive and novel complications, often built as a module to be added onto a base movement, such as the secular perpetual calendar that needs no adjustment even after centuries – but on an ETA base calibre. Many of the brand’s creations are hand-made, bespoke timepieces built to the client’s specifications. The brand commemorated its 40th anniversary with four models that encapsulate its historical specialties, a diamond-set, Louis Cattier-style world time, a collaboration with Konstantin Chaykin that combines the Russian watchmaker’s Joker display with an automaton on the back, and a jumping hours. The final watch in the anniversary quartet is the first in platinum, the Jumping Hours 40th Anniversary with a 21k-gold dial engine turned by hand. Initial thoughts The Jumping Hours is charming in both design and construction, but for the fact that it is the brainchild of a pioneer independent watchmaker. Save for the case material, the new Jumping Hours is identical to its rose gold predecessor, so it’s not particularly novel. But the guilloche blue dial works exceptionally well with the white-metal case, mak...

History Of Ferrari Watches: Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari Quill & Pad
Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari Jun 5, 2021

History Of Ferrari Watches: Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari

In this non-chronological multipart series called “History of Ferrari Watches,” Elizabeth Doerr takes us through a comprehensive look into the Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari collaboration, which took place between 1993 and 2004 and culminated in the Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari Tribute to Enzo Ferrari Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges perpetual calendar chronograph.

Mario Scarpatetti Wins the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition 2021 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition 2021 Jun 1, 2021

Mario Scarpatetti Wins the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition 2021

Held annually since 2015, the Young Talent Competition (YTC) was established by F.P. Journe to identify and reward promising young watch- and clockmakers. Open to candidates between 18 and 30 years old from anywhere in the world, the competition is overseen by a jury made up of industry figures – including Philippe Dufour, Giulio Papi, and Francois-Paul Journe himself – with the winner receiving a certificate as well as a CHF20,000 grant to buy watchmaking tools. This year’s winner was Mario Scarpatetti, a 29-year old clockmaker from the town of Parsonz in the east of Switzerland. Mr Scarpatetti’s winning submission was the Kalendar Perpeten, a long-case pendulum clock wound by a block of marble from Mr Scarpatetti’s region. It’s equipped with a moon phase, running equation of time, and most importantly – a patented, secular perpetual calendar. Francois-Paul Journe (left) with Mario Scarpatetti The Kalendar Perpeten Mario envisioned a new type of perpetual calendar clock in 2016, as an extension of a concept he had realised in 2013 as a conventional perpetual calendar clock. A conventional perpetual calendar keeps track of the date, accounting 30- and 31-day months as well as leap years. However, such calendars still require adjustment every 100 years, as years that are divisible by 100 but not by 400 are not leap years, one of the quirks of the Gregorian calendar that is the norm today. As such, a conventional perpetual calendar will interpret the years 2...

Highlights: The Creatives at Phillips’ Hong Kong Watch Auction SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain May 27, 2021

Highlights: The Creatives at Phillips’ Hong Kong Watch Auction

Having rounded up some of the interesting and probably overlooked at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong watch auction, we now take a look at some of the independent watchmaking highlights in the sale. The auction includes big ticket headline lots like a F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain, and of course the F.P. Journe tourbillon disguised as Harry Winston. But it also encompasses the less obvious, including a Alain Silberstein Tourbillon Marine, Singer Reimagined Track 1, a Bulgari-era Gerald Genta perpetual calendar in gold and tantalum, and an early-generation H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual 1 that’s excellent value. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XII takes place in the evening of June 5 (lots 801-852), and on June 6 (lots 853-1112). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available online. Lot 809 – Alain Silberstein Tourbillon Marine Black Sea Cheerful and eminently affordable, the Tourbillon Marine is typical Alain Silberstein. Mr Silberstein’s once explained his approach was to create unique, personalised wristwatches that arouse the emotion. By that measure, the Tourbillon Marine succeeds – it sets itself apart from every diving watch. In his 1990s heyday, Alain Silberstein was rebellious and avant-garde, standing in stark contrast to the strictly conservative style that dominated high horology at the time. This watch is from the early 2000s, but still very much a quintessential Alain Silberstein creation. The dial is quirky and playful – the deep sea ren...

Behind The Lens: Vintage Patek Philippe Reference 3450J Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Reference 3450J Despite May 15, 2021

Behind The Lens: Vintage Patek Philippe Reference 3450J

Despite the virus restrictions, GaryG has managed to venture out from time to time for brief, top-secret rendezvous in parking lots and on park benches to receive and return the generous loans of friends’ watches to photograph. Recently, he had the chance to shoot a true classic: a second-series Reference 3450J perpetual calendar made by Patek Philippe, which he shares with us here.

Breitling Introduces the Super Chronomat SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces May 6, 2021

Breitling Introduces the Super Chronomat

Breitling revived the classic 1984 version of the Chronomat just last year, right down to the signature Rouleaux bracelet. Now the brand ups the ante with the introduction of the Super Chronomat, a larger, 44 mm watch that’s available in two guises: the B01 chronograph and more interestingly, a chronograph combined with the “1461” four-year calendar that was once a signature complication for Breitling. Initial thoughts At a time where brands are downsizing their best known designs, the Super Chronomat bucks the trend. Bigger and bolder than its smaller sibling, the Chronomat “is a watch you’ll get noticed in without having to worry about it” says Breitling chief executive Georges Kern in the launch announcement. I’m inclined to agree – the new Super Chronomat definitely makes a statement. With the distinctive Rouleaux bracelet and oversized pushers, the Super Chronomat possesses a temerity in design that is reminiscent of Breitling in the mid 2000s when the brand favoured excessive sizing, but packaged in a modern manner. That said, the new Super Chronomat collection has a cool 1980s vibe as well, particularly with the UTC module that’s an option on the Super Chronomat B01. The black dial Super Chronomat B01 44, with a UTC module in the bracelet Then there’s the Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar, which features a semi-perpetual calendar. Formerly the flagship complication for Breitling, the calendar is known as the 1461 after the number of days in...

Up Close: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange” SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne May 5, 2021

Up Close: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange”

Introduced last year as part of the 175th Anniversary trio, the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange” is the first straightforward split-seconds chronograph wristwatch unveiled by A. Lange & Söhne. Simpler, but not simple, the 1815 Rattrapante is appealing in the way that many Lange watches are – the quality of fit and finish is obvious – but it is also notable in both style and movement construction. Initial thoughts A small run of just 100 watches, the 1815 Rattrapante is mostly sold out. Nonetheless it’s a beautiful and unusual enough that it is worth a look. While the other two “Homage to F.A. Lange” 175th Anniversary limited editions – the 1815 Thin and Tourbograph – are powered by movements found in other models, the 1815 Rattrapante is equipped with its own calibre, the L101.2. Granted, the L101.2 derived from the movement in the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar, but it is still substantially different. For one, it has more elegant proportions than the average complicated Lange, with a profile that’s relatively flat. The brand’s complex watches are often big – both wide and thick – so the 1815 Rattrapante stands out for being smaller in comparison. It is a still a largish 41.2 mm in diameter, but just 12.6 mm high. While clearly an 1815 in style, the Rattrapante diverges in its colours. Lange rolls out fewer colour iterations of its models than its peers, which makes this combination unorthodox. Bringing to mind the f...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Apr 27, 2021

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque

Appropriately for the 90th anniversary of famed reversible wristwatch, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has debuted the ultimate Reverso. Boasting 11 complications, including a tourbillon, minute repeater, and instantaneous perpetual calendar, the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is a monumental wristwatch with four faces and a movement made up of 800 parts. Initial thoughts The Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is smaller than the Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque – which was so big as to be almost unwearable for most – but still sizeable enough to be clunky. It measures 51.2 mm by 31 mm, while standing 15.15 mm high, making it larger than the biggish Nonantième that was launched at the same time. Granted, the size is necessary for the ultra-complex, four-faced movement. Majority of the complications within the new grand complication can be found in past JLC watches, making the Calibre 185 Quadriptyque something of a greatest-hits compilation for the brand. Impressive as it is, the Calibre 185 feels dated, in the sense that watches with numerous complications stacked up were a “thing” in the 2000s; the Triptyque was launched in 2007 and truly exotic in its day. Now that such watches are fairly common, with many leading brands having their own grand multi-complications, the concept is less impressive, regardless of the technical achievement. It’s also worth pointing out that the watch is elaborately decorated – mainly with Clous de Paris guilloche ...

Ochs und Junior Introduces the Calendario Cent’anni SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin like Apr 23, 2021

Ochs und Junior Introduces the Calendario Cent’anni

Founded by watchmaking genius Ludwig Oechslin, best known for the inventive timepieces he created for Ulysse Nardin like the Freak and Trilogy of Time, Ochs und Junior specialises in brilliantly simple complications that are minimalist, functional, and idiosyncratic in style. Dr Oechslin is best known for his calendar complications, particularly the Perpetual Ludwig he invented for Ulysse Nardin, which remains the centrepiece of his latest wristwatch, the Calendario Cent’anni. Italian for “hundred-year calendar”, the Calendario Cent’Anni (CCA) will indicate the calendar till the end of this century, like most other perpetual calendar watches, but it is executed in Ochs und Junior’s inimitable style. And while the CCA retains the Ochs und Junior look, it will be offered in three fixed variations (each named after a Roman numeral), instead of being endlessly customisable as the first-generation Ochs und Junior perpetual calendar was. From left: CCA III, II and I Initial thoughts Perpetual calendars were once an expensive complication, but the proliferation of mass-produced as well as unconventional, streamlined calendar mechanisms have brought about many affordable perpetual calendars, with the cheapest starting at around US$9,000. But few perpetual calendar watches are as interesting as Dr Oechslin’s invention. While it does cost more than the most affordable perpetuals with a retail price of about US$16,600, the CCA is truly innovative. Dr Oechlin’s perpetu...

Conversations: Wilhelm Schmid of Lange on New Launches and Allocation SJX Watches
Apr 20, 2021

Conversations: Wilhelm Schmid of Lange on New Launches and Allocation

With A. Lange & Söhne having unveiled a compact line-up of new models – just three strong – at Watches & Wonders 2021, I had assumed my chat with its chief executive Wilhelm Schmid would be similarly concise. But last week’s video interview turned out to be more interesting, because we went on to discuss Lange’s strategy for distribution and allocation. Mr Schmid outlined the new models for 2021 (so far), and then detailed the tweaks to the brand’s retail strategy – in the face of overwhelming demand for certain models, and shortages due to pandemic-induced disruptions. The discussion is worth a read for a Lange aficionado, but also more broadly for anyone interested in a well-reasoned explanation of how a watch brand has to balance all of the factors involved in getting a desirable watch onto the wrist of a client. Wilhelm Schmid, working from home The interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: Lange only introduced three models at Watches & Wonders, but they were all warmly received – I liked them myself. Tell us about how the new watches came about. Wilhelm Schmid: So for this year, we decided to go back to the core of the business, which is always the Lange 1. We launched the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar in 2013, which was a great watch, because of its two big complications. But we also realized that we were running our Langematik Perpetual Calendar since 2001, almost 20 years, well, actually 20 years this year. That was the only standal...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava “Clous de Paris” Ref. 6119 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 13, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava “Clous de Paris” Ref. 6119

Though now often overlooked in favour of a luxury-sports watch, the Calatrava is perhaps the quintessential Patek Philippe – it was introduced in 1932 and named after the brand’s emblem – possessing a diversity of designs that all share an elegant simplicity. Patek Philippe’s second instalment of new watches at Watches & Wonders 2021 focus on fine, sophisticated wristwatches – it also just announced a striking new perpetual calendar – and naturally encompasses the Calatrava, which sees the addition of the Calatrava “Clous de Paris” ref. 6119. A tribute to well-known Calatrava models such as the ref. 3919 and its successor, the ref. 5119, the ref. 6119 blends several signature elements of past designs in a larger case to create a more contemporary guise that’s available in rose or white gold. Importantly, the ref. 6119 is powered by the newly-developed, hand-wind cal. 30-255 PS, a large, thin movement with twin barrels – and an impressively high moment of inertia for the balance wheel. The cal. 30-255 PS Initial thoughts I’ve always been a fan of the Calatrava, especially variants with a hinged, “hunter” back like the ref. 5227. Best described as fine watches for gentlemen, they typify Patek Philippe’s traditional and refined approach to watchmaking. But the cases of previous generations of the Calatrava were relatively small – the ref. 3919 was 33 mm, while the ref. 5119 had a 36 mm case. And more recent models, like the 40 mm ref. 6007 int...

Frederique Constant Unveils 40 Hz Silicon Oscillator SJX Watches
Frederique Constant Unveils 40 Hz Silicon Mar 27, 2021

Frederique Constant Unveils 40 Hz Silicon Oscillator

Best known for affordable complications, Frederique Constant’s recent watches include a flyback chronograph for US$4,000 and a perpetual calendar for a bit under US$10,000. But the brand has also applied modern technology to its watchmaking with its analog smartwatches. The brand’s latest offering is cutting-edge horology, but in a mechanical movement. The Slimline Monolithic Manufacture is equipped with an automatic movement that runs at 40 Hz, or 288,000 beats per hour (bph), thanks to a compliant-mechanism silicon oscillator instead of a balance wheel. Initial thoughts It’s a pleasant surprise to see Frederique Constant delving into advanced horological solutions with its silicon compliant mechanism and entering a space often associated with pricier brands like Ulysse Nardin and Zenith. Even more impressive is the fact that the movement is not just as a concept, but a commercially available watch that will be in stores in fall of this year and priced relatively affordably, starting at €4,495, or about US$5,300, in steel. The advanced movement leaves the design of the Monolithic Manufacture incongruous with its classical styling and a truly modern oscillator. However, as such watches go, the design is not the point – it is all about the novel escapement that will certainly pique the interest of technical-minded enthusiasts. Hi-tech collab The high-frequency silicon oscillator was born of a collaboration with Flexous, a startup focused on compliant mechanis...

Auction Watch: Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile Grand Complication SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile Grand Dec 29, 2020

Auction Watch: Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile Grand Complication

Taking place at the end of the third week of January 2021, the first major international watch auction is Antiquorum’s Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces in Monaco. The 304-lot auction will be capped by an appropriately major watch – the very first Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Île Grand Complication that was produced for the watchmaker’s 250th anniversary in 2005. First sold for 1.88 million Swiss francs at the Quarter Millennium of Vacheron Constantin thematic auction staged by Antiquorum and Vacheron Constantin in April 2005, the Tour de l’Ile was one of the first mega-complications of the modern era. When the Tour de l’Ile was launched, the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002 was only three years old, the Lange Tourbograph had yet to be launched, and Greubel Forsey had only been founded a year earlier. At its launch, the Tour de l’Ile was billed as the world’s most complicated wristwatch – and also became the most expensive wristwatch sold at auction – thanks to its 16 complications displayed on two faces in a case 47 mm wide and almost 18 mm tall. Named after the location of Vacheron Constantin’s workshop in the 18th and 19th centuries – Tour de l’Ile literally translates as “tower on the island” – the wristwatch is powered by the 834-component cal. 2750. It features a minute repeater, perpetual calendar with moon phase, star chart, celestial annual calendar, tourbillon, sunrise and sunset times, equation of time, power...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Dec 9, 2020

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon

Launched with a solid-colour, grand feu enamel dial, the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon has been given simple but significant facelift with a new dial that’s a mix of aventurine glass and vitreous enamel. Made up of ground, powdered aventurine glass mixed with enamel powder, the dial has a deep, glossy surface with the characteristic sparkly metallic inclusions of aventurine glass. Initial thoughts When Audemars Piguet first launched the Code 11.59, only the perpetual calendar model had an aventurine-glass dial, and it was one of the best looking watches in the line up. Though not exactly identical, the aventurine-glass dials on the new tourbillons are no doubt as appealing, especially since they fill up the expanse of the dial. Even though the Code 11.59 lacks the desirability of the fashionable Royal Oak, it is an appealing watch when done right, as this one is. The new dial is a good fit for the case, which was well done to begin with. Featuring a fairly complex construction for a round watch, the case is sharply finished. Arguably the only downside of the case is its size, which is not large at 41 mm wide, but feels chunky on the wrist. The cal. 2950 made its debut last year with the Code 11.59. Also found in the recently launched Royal Oak tourbillon, the cal. 2950 is an attractively designed movement with an unusual detail: a grande sonnerie-style winding click integrated onto the barrel ratchet wheel. With a retail price of about US$150,000, the Code 11...

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Saxonia Outsize Date SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Dec 7, 2020

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Saxonia Outsize Date

First unveiled in 2018 in either pink or white gold with black dials, the Saxonia Outsize Date is now offered in the chromatic opposite, once again in both metals but with a silver dial. Characterised by a no-frills design centred on the extra-large date display, the new Saxonia is identical to the earlier version. The case remains the same compact 38.5 mm in diameter, and contains the L086.8 movement (which is a close relative of the L155.1 in the Odysseus sports watch). Initial thoughts Very much typical of A. Lange & Söhne in style, the new Saxonia is a clean, serious-looking wristwatch with a high level of fit and finish, packaged in a modestly-sized, 38.5 mm case. It is simplicity done well. While the original version in black had a stark and decidedly more modern look found in few Lange watches, the new Saxonia has a more classical aesthetic that is more in keeping with the brand’s house style, which should please traditionalists. Priced at a bit over €26,000, or about US$30,000, the Saxonia Outsize Date is reasonable value given its quality, both inside and out; the movement is finished to Lange standards, while the dial is solid silver with solid-gold hands and markers. The only thing that might be a minus is the L086.8 movement, because it is not as elaborate as the first-generation Lange automatic movement, the L921 “Sax-O-Mat” that is now only found in the Langematik Perpetual Calendar (as the L922.1) and Saxonia Annual Calendar (L085.1). The newer L086...