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Time+Tide
Grand Seiko has just launched three new U.S exclusive midsize 44GS references at their GS9 Club USA event.The post The Grand Seiko 36.5mm 44GS range expands with three new U.S. exclusive references (SBGW309, SBGW311, SBGW313) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Seiko pays tribute to the brand's first-ever dual-time watch, going all the way back to 1968 for inspiration.The post The Seiko Prospex SPB411 stays true to its vintage inspiration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
As a fan of the extraordinary Seiko Prospex 1000, Dietmar Fuchs took the limited version of the reinterpretation of a famous Seiko diving watch diving and shares his real-world experience with it here.
Worn & Wound
One of the more exciting releases from Grand Seiko over the last couple of years (we know – there have been a lot of new Grand Seiko releases) was the limited edition SBGW289, a pink hued watch in a 44GS case with a throwback size of just 36.5mm. Naturally, plenty of people were excited about the pink dial, but hardcore Grand Seiko nerds were particularly into the idea of a smaller 44GS case, more in-line with vintage Grand Seiko proportions, and this LE that debuted in April of last year seemed to point toward future releases along these lines that might not be so limited, and perhaps even be in more classic and sober dial colors. With Grand Seiko’s latest release, they continue to build out the lineup of smaller 44GS cases with a pair of watches that feel like they could have been part of the Grand Seiko catalog since the 1960s. The new SBGW297 and SBGW299 have dials in white and blue, respectively, each with a classic, heavy, sunray pattern emanating from the center. This isn’t a subtle, brushed sunray texture, but a more defined series of fanned ridges that are more clearly visible and should play with the light in interesting ways. The dials, and the watches more broadly, are directly inspired by styles dating back to the 1967 introduction of the 44GS design, and there’s an understated simplicity here that is certainly core to the Grand Seiko aesthetic. The cases match the 36.5mm proportions of last year’s SBGW289, which means they offer all of the inher...
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko expands the popular 36.5mm 44GS line with two new fan-textured dials, complete with steel bracelets.The post The Grand Seiko SBGW297 & SBGW299 bring back bracelets to 36.5mm 44GS cases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
Following the release of the 1970s diver reissue and a solar chronograph inspired by a 1990s design, Seiko has reintroduced another historical model as the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT Limited Edition SPB411. This remake draws inspiration from the Navigator Timer from 1968, the brand’s first dual time zone watch with a 24-hour rotating bezel. Now it’s been given a modern update with a new calibre and tweaks to the dial design while retaining the retro tonneau-shaped case. Initial thoughts The Navigator Timer is not quite as famous as its diving or chronograph counterparts, but still an important vintage “tool” watch amongst vintage Seikos. The Japanese brand has executed its long-awaited revival admirably, offering a contemporary interpretation with a modern movement while maintaining the essence of its original design. It’s worth noting that this reissue should be more accurately described as a dual time zone watch with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than a genuine GMT with an adjustable local-time hour hand, a feature usually seen in higher-end Grand Seiko models. This distinction means that setting the watch for different time zones involves a few extra steps. However, given its price point, this compromise remains entirely reasonable. Priced at US$1,600, it’s a US$100 increase from the standard Prospex Diver’s GMT. Despite this modest cost bump, opting for this limited edition still offers great value. That said, collectors might be less...
Deployant
Seiko releases two limited editions that pay tribute to their historical field watches. Introducing the Land and Landmaster.
Time+Tide
Jamie and Borna were lucky enough to go driving supercars with Grand Seiko. Must be nice.The post Going for a ‘Spring Drive’ with Grand Seiko appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Raman Kalra initially preferred the Grand Seiko Skyflake case shape over the Snowflake, and found the light blue dial attractive. However, after considering Grand Seiko more seriously, he looked at a range of references. and it didn’t take him long to find the SBGA415 Winter.
Time+Tide
The new Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Irori Moments SRPK50J takes inspiration from an Australian whisky distillery's bespoke cocktailThe post The Seiko Cocktail Time Irori Moments SRPK50 combines Australian and Japanese inspiration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
A look at the new Seiko Prospex SPB419, SPB421, and SPB423 divers - all inspired by cold water diving locations across the United States.
Worn & Wound
The SPB line in Seiko’s Prospex collection needs no introduction, and to many it represents old-school Seiko excellence: historic design with modern specs at reasonable prices. In particular, the SPB143, 145, and 147 are especially beloved thanks to their wearability and 62MAS lineage. Seiko is now introducing three new U.S. Special Edition models based on that reference, each corresponding to a cold-water American diving locale. The SPB419 makes the biggest statement of the three, and its striking gradient dial is intended to invoke the northern Great Lakes’ blue ice, notably in Michigan. A rare natural phenomenon, this blue ice is achieved when sustained temperatures allow water to freeze and thicken over long periods of time. When light then hits the ice, the red part of the light (i.e. longer wavelengths) are absorbed while shorter blue wavelengths are transmitted. This seldom seen sight is truly something to behold, and Seiko captures its essence here. The SPB421 and SPB423 take us from the Lakes to Alaska where we meet a different type of icy structure: glacial moulins. Also known as mills, moulins are well-like structures that form from weaknesses in the ice and can sometimes reach hundreds of meters to the bottom of the glacier. The SPB421’s dark blue dial with a subtle gradation captures the ice’s color at depth – you know, in case you haven’t seen it yourself, while the 423’s dial is meant to evoke the light gray tones of glacial ice as a whole. Al...
Worn & Wound
Seiko has been bringing the heat (quite literally) with sophisticated and labor-intensive dials to its mid-level lines like Presage. Last week we saw a slew of releases celebrating the 110th anniversary of the Laurel, Seiko’s first watch. The headliner was the Presage SPB401 and its enamel dial. Today we see enamel and lacquer make their way to the Presage collection in the form of three new references. The changes don’t stop there, though; there’s more to these watches than new dials. In a break from the current porcelain dials in the Craftsmanship Series, the new SPB403 features a white enamel dial courtesy of Mitsuru Yokasawa and Co. The dial layout on these references has been simplified with thin stick hour markers (as opposed to thin roman numerals). This results in a more versatile watch and allows the color and material to take center stage. In a nice touch, the chapter ring is further subdivided into sixths, corresponding to the movement’s 3Hz beat rate. Of the three, the SPB403 is the most classic-looking and comes on a five link bracelet with Seiko’s super-hard coating. The SPB405 (black dial) and SPB407 (green dial) incorporate the ancient art of lacquering into the Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series. Made from the sap of the Urushi tree (Rhus verniciflua, found primarily in China and Japan), Japanese lacquer is notoriously expensive and highly prized. Master Usshu Tamura and his team at Seiko have developed a method that, unlike enamel, allows the la...
Deployant
The world is a large, mysterious place and there are some facts about it that you simply can’t wrap your head around. Did you know that Japan enjoys the highest snowfall anywhere in the world, or that the word geoduck is pronounced ‘gooey-duck’? Or that there has never been a mechanical Grand Seiko chronograph, thatRead More
Worn & Wound
When Hintaro Hattori set up shop in Tokyo’s Ginza at the age of 21, he would eventually change the watchmaking landscape forever. The business, which initially focused on importing and wholesaling Swiss pieces, would go on to manufacture Japan’s first wristwatch, the Laurel, in 1913. It would also eventually be known as Seiko. Not one to waste an anniversary, Seiko is commemorating 110 years since the Laurel with a flurry of releases up and down the lineup. From Presage to Prospex, here is an overview of the new watches. Seiko Presage Bearing the closest resemblance to the original Laurel, the SPB401 bears the trademark red twelve o’clock numeral and two subdials for the date and power reserve. Its enamel dial comes from the work of the venerable Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team. It will be limited to 1,500 pieces with a retail price of $1,250. The SPB413 features an angular case not too unlike the King Seiko line and showcases a “hemp leaf” pattern on the dial. A red mark along the rehaut at twelve is its nod to the Laurel. It’s the most modern of the new releases but perhaps is also one of the most wearable. It is limited to 2,000 pieces with a retail price of $1,050. The least limited of the new Presage releases (3,500 pieces) is the SSK015, a new variation on the existing SSK GMT watches. It pays homage to the Laurel with its four blue hands and red triangle at twelve and will set you back $625. Seiko Prospex Sure to be a fan favorite, the SPB409 Alpinist GMT...
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Time+Tide
Editor’s note: We have finally reached the end of the Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour series. In part one I detailed my visit to Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, the home of all things 9S mechanical, in Morioka. Part two detailed my return to Ginza and my visit to the incredible Seiko Museum Ginza. After leaving the … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 5: Seiko/Epson Shiojiri Studio Shinshu – home of all Spring Drive, 9F quartz, and the Micro Artist Studio appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
This isn’t exactly breaking news, but Grand Seiko releases a lot of watches. Over the last few years, during a period of growth that those of us who were fans of the brand before they split off from Seiko could only have dreamed of, they’ve even been accused of spinning their wheels somewhat, releasing endless variants of variants, in a sea of interchangeable colors and case shapes. I think a case can probably be made that the collection could use some refining, and that fewer special editions might do the brand some good. But at the same time, I love that they give customers options. I think about a new, first time Grand Seiko buyer walking into a boutique and being able to choose from a selection of watches that is basically unmatched, getting exactly what they want, or pretty close to it in any case. One potential middle ground between a sudden halt to novelties and placing renewed attention on core models and continuing to move down the path they’re on currently is a release like the new SBGJ273, a dressy GMT with one of the brand’s best movements, and a dial that has proven to be an elusive fan favorite. Before we get into the new watch, it’s worth examining one from a few years ago, the SBGH269. This watch, released in the fall of 2019 as a limited edition of 900, was meant to evoke the changing color of fall leaves with its red dial. Furthermore, the pattern on the dial, modeled after wood paneled floors, was completely unique to this reference. The comb...
Worn & Wound
Seiko introduced a new caliber back in March via their Prospex GMT Diver collection, adding caller GMT functionality into the brand’s well understood contemporary dive watch platform. Those watches have generated quite a bit of chatter in the watch community, with many singing their praises with respect to overall fit, finish, and wearability, and others wishing for a more functional flyer GMT complication. While the dust might still be settling, Seiko marches on, with the latest crop of watches to feature their still new 6R54 GMT movement. This time, Seiko brings the movement to the Alpinist family, which seems like a natural place for a GMT equipped watch to land. It takes what has always been cast as an explorer’s watch (with its signature compass bezel) and gives it a modern, practical, mechanical complication for a different kind of exploration. I’ve always been a pretty big fan of the Alpinist for many of the reasons Blake identifies in his Missed Review. There’s something charmingly anachronistic about wearing a watch designed with such an old fashioned aesthetic (those cathedral hands, especially) but built to modern sports watch standards. With a GMT complication added, the Alpinist retains a lot (maybe all) of that old fashioned charm, just slightly tweaked. The Explorer-style steel 24 hour bezel gives these watches a clean and sporty look, and we still get the trademark handset and those big numerals (just at the cardinal positions here, rather than ev...
Worn & Wound
A few months back, Seiko made a big splash in the watch scene with their sub-$500 GMT watch. With their own GMT movement inside and a design based on the iconic SKX case, they had an instant hit on their hands. We’re happy to offer their two latest dial colors: a dark charcoal grey and a bright and cheerful yellow. Read on to find out more about these two new Seikos that just landed at the Windup Watch Shop. A few months back, Seiko made a big splash in the watch scene with their sub-$500 GMT watch. With their own GMT movement inside and a design based on the iconic SKX case, they had an instant hit on their hands. We’re happy to offer their two latest dial colors: a dark charcoal grey and a bright and cheerful yellow. Read on to find out more about these two new Seikos that just landed at the Windup Watch Shop. The post Seiko Makes It Hard To Choose Favorites With Their New Addition of Seiko 5 GMTs appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
The Grand Seiko SBGJ275 and SBGM253 celebrate the 25th anniversary of the 9S mechanical movement The SBGJ275 from the Sport Collection depicts the cloudy sky above Mt. Iwate The SBGM253 from the Elegance Collection takes a sophisticated approach with a blue sunburst dial The gradual departure from navy blue to sky blue as a watch … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGJ275 and SBGM253 take to Mount Iwate skies celebrating the 9S movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Worn & Wound
Tool watches are, as the name suggests, utilitarian by design. When I bought an SRPG13, the green Seiko Land Tortoise with a compass bezel, I thought I was purchasing yet another tool watch with practical non-timekeeping functionality. After an overnight family backpacking trip, I’m not convinced my field watch is the useful tool I tried to force it to be. The Land Tortoise is a tool watch- in the sense that it’s technically capable of tasks beyond displaying the time. True North can be found with any analog watch by pointing the hour hand at the sun, bisecting the angle between the hour hand and the sun to find South, and then locating the opposite point to identify North. A compass bezel is an enhancement that allows the wearer to mark North after finding it. This summer our family of four is section hiking the entire Monadnock-Sunapee Greenway Trail; A 50 mile peak to peak path through New Hampshire’s backcountry. What better place to put this tool to the test than on the first section of the trip? The day before our first overnight section, as I organized gear, sprawling out sleeping pads, a tent, trekking poles and various knick-knacks across our living room floor, I made sure to put on the SRPG13. I pictured standing on a mountain top, getting the kids set up with a celebratory lunch, lining up the hour hand, and then bisecting with ease. With a real compass in my pack, I was excited to check my accuracy. Two miles away and 2000 feet above the parking lot whe...
Time+Tide
We are nearing the end of this Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour series. In part one I detailed my visit to Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, the home of all things 9S mechanical, in Morioka. Part two detailed my return to Ginza and my visit to the incredible Seiko Museum Ginza. After leaving the museum, in part … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 4: Chatting with the man behind the Kodo at Atelier Ginza appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
With their latest set of US exclusive releases, Grand Seiko turns their attention to the katana, a Japanese sword, crafted from steel, that has become a symbol of Japanese culture across the world. There is a real art to creating a katana blade, and with these new watches, Grand Seiko is drawing inspiration from that centuries old process in much the same way they’ve built a cottage industry around watches that pull in aesthetic inspiration from the changing seasons and the natural world. What really links the katana to these watches though, and it’s something absent from the nature inspired dial designs, is a focus on craft. A katana blade is formed by heating iron sand in a special furnace called a tatara, with the melted sand becoming the steel known as tamahagane, a traditional Japanese material. Layers of metal are stacked individually, one on top of the other, heated, forged, folded, and cooled with water until the core of the sword takes shape. Eventually the blade is polished, taking on the familiar edge you’d expect, in a process that is not too dissimilar from putting a mirror shine on a Grand Seiko case, at least in the sense that both are done by hand by highly skilled craftspeople. There are three releases in total in this mini collection inspired by the katana. The SBGA489, inspired by kawagane, the outer, sharp edge of a katana blade, has a black dial with a lightly stippled texture modeled after tamahagane steel. The SBGA491 features the same dial t...
Time+Tide
This new Grand Seiko 44GS steel Spring Drive trio uses katana artistry as a muse for their dials The SBGA489 and SBGA491 introduce a new dial texture inspired by Japanese tamahagane steel The SBGA493, a limited edition of 500 pieces, has a fiery red dial that encapsulates the emanating sparks from the forging of a … ContinuedThe post The new Grand Seiko Katana Collection debuts new dial textures inspired by katana artistry appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Often overlook but never forgotten by watch enthusiasts, is the Seiko Marinemaster the ideal dive watch? Read our review for all the facts.
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