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Rediscovering the Rado HyperChrome Ultra Light Time+Tide
Rado HyperChrome Ultra Light Editor’s Sep 22, 2019

Rediscovering the Rado HyperChrome Ultra Light

Editor’s note: With weather more conducive to anything other than complete hibernation finally starting to creep back into our lives Down Under, it’s got everyone here in the office talking about what watch you should be wearing when the board shorts, bikinis and budgie smugglers come out. Now, we’ve already covered what we think will … ContinuedThe post Rediscovering the Rado HyperChrome Ultra Light appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Zenith takes on GPHG 2019 with 5 seriously hot watches Time+Tide
Zenith takes Sep 20, 2019

Zenith takes on GPHG 2019 with 5 seriously hot watches

It isn’t hard to imagine that Zenith is probably feeling pretty darn confident about being given more than one award at this year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. Not least for the fact that five of the Swiss marque’s timepieces have been given the nod by the prestigious event’s judges across no fewer than five … ContinuedThe post Zenith takes on GPHG 2019 with 5 seriously hot watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Ophion Introduces the OPH 786 Vélos SJX Watches
Breguet numerals Sep 20, 2019

Ophion Introduces the OPH 786 Vélos

Ophion is a Spanish brand offering Swiss-made watches with a particular speciality: traditionally-styled movement and dial decoration done by machine, resulting in a modest price. The new OPH 786 Vélos sticks to the same formula, but takes it to a new level by increasing the degree of machine-executed decoration on the dial to create an appealing style while retaining the accessible pricing. And the resulting look is also reminiscent of the work of far more expensive independent watchmakers like Thomas Prescher and Voutilainen. Two dials are offered: the simpler, and less expensive, one being a metallic finish and concentric brushing matched with nickel-plated hands. And the fancier option is an elaborate basket-weave guilloche engraved by a CNC milling machine, combined with either nickel-plated or heat-blued hands. Both dial finished have the same construction featuring an applied minute track and inner ring, and also large applied Breguet numerals. The inner ring has a wide inner bevel that is once again cut by machine. The 39mm watch case features bulbous, teardrop lugs that are each produced individually, and then welded to the case – an unusually elaborate construction at this price point. And it’s worth pointing out the case is made by Voutilainen & Cattin, the case maker owned by Voutilainen. Inside is the same calibre found in earlier Ophion models. Made by Soprod, it’s hand-wound with a five-day power reserve. The movement layout was customised for Ophion...

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Sun’s out, guns out: 3 ace watches to kick off the summer vibes Time+Tide
Sep 17, 2019

Sun’s out, guns out: 3 ace watches to kick off the summer vibes

Yes, we’re somewhat getting ahead of ourselves here, but with the abject misery of Australia’s particularly dismal winter now in the rearview mirror, it’s time to start thinking about ideal summer watches. What’s more, thanks to the land of Oz perpetually being six months behind the Northern Hemisphere’s summer style, we’ve already got a pretty … ContinuedThe post Sun’s out, guns out: 3 ace watches to kick off the summer vibes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Audemars Piguet Introduces the Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Sep 17, 2019

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique

Audemars Piguet’s latest watch for ladies is an elegant complication, or more specifically, a simplification with a twist. Inspired by a wristwatch from the 1980s, the Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique has only a single hand for the hours, and nothing else. But the hour hand doesn’t travel in a circle, instead it traces the oval shape of the case. Single-handed pocket watches already existed in the 18th century, when the precise time was not a concern for most people. But Audemars Piguet revived the concept in 1982 with the original Philosophique, a one-handed wristwatch styled like a pocket watch, with its crown at 12 o’clock. Though it was a men’s watch, the original Philosophique is tiny by modern standards, measuring just 32mm in diameter, making it significantly smaller than today’s Millenary Philosophique for ladies. Available in white or pink gold, the Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique features a striking, contrast case finish of granular “frosted gold” and mirror-polished surfaces. Inspired by Florentine jewellery, the frosted surface is achieved by hand, with a sharp tool that creates tiny indentations on the gold. The dial is finished with an irregular “hammer-like” surface, echoing the case decoration. But more intriguing than the decoration is the trajectory of the hour hand. Instead of travelling in a circle, the hour hand follows an elliptical path, tracing the outline of the oval Millenary case. This is possible because the hour...

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Our Predictions In The Ladies Complication Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panel Is Unanimous! Quill & Pad
Sep 16, 2019

Our Predictions In The Ladies Complication Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panel Is Unanimous!

With our second set of predictions we take a look at the Ladies Complication category, a surprisingly packed collection of timepieces for women with more than an added moon phase or power reserve. These are very clearly designed to be different, and while we are collectively pretty sure one already has the win in the bag, it will definitely be an interesting category for the judges this year. Our panel was unanimous in its selection of one very beautiful and cleverly complex timepiece.

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Hands-On: Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark Limited Edition SJX Watches
Breitling  Proving Sep 14, 2019

Hands-On: Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark Limited Edition

Tudor’s latest watch is major – beyond the watch itself – for it is the first publicly available limited edition in its 70-year history. In an industry where limited editions usually emphasise “edition” rather than “limited”, the Black Bay Chrono Dark is limited to just 1181 pieces at time of writing (though the number will creep up each year; more on that below). The new watch is a nod to Tudor’s partnership with the New Zealand national rugby union team, better known as the All Blacks – perhaps the most successful rugby team in history. Named for the all-black team jersey bearing a silver fern emblem, the All Blacks provide a literal inspiration for the Black Bay Chrono Dark, which has a black-coated case and bracelet. It’s essentially a cooler, limited and monochromatic version of a watch that is already an excellent value proposition. The watch is based on the Black Bay Chrono launched two years ago. Though it was slightly controversial aesthetically – the design being a mishmash of dive and driving watches – the Black Bay Chrono was well-regarded for being good value; it was powered by a sophisticated chronograph movement based on the Calibre 01 made by Breitling. Proving to be something that grew on you over time, the line-up was joined by the two-tone Black Bay Chrono S&G; unveiled at Baselworld 2019. Now the collection grows to include the Black Bay Chrono Dark, exactly 1181 examples of it to be specific. This is the numbe...

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INTRODUCING: The Limited Edition Zodiac X Liberty Super Sea Wolf Time+Tide
Zodiac X Liberty Super Sea Sep 13, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Limited Edition Zodiac X Liberty Super Sea Wolf

Hot off the heels of their last limited-run homage piece, the Astrographic, Zodiac has teamed up with the London-based luxury retailer Liberty to give us this – the Zodiac X Liberty Super Sea Wolf. Like Zodiac, Liberty has been around for more than a century, and has a brilliant history of providing Londoners, as well … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Limited Edition Zodiac X Liberty Super Sea Wolf appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The Alpina Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph Time+Tide
Alpina Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph Sep 12, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Alpina Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph

We don’t hear too much about Alpina, but the new Alpina Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph line is one of the more exciting vintage-style releases this year. This is why. Aside from having three equally appealing dial colour options, the monopusher movement and case geometry adopted by Alpina for this release is particularly noteworthy and makes … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Alpina Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Explaining a legend – the history of the IWC Portugieser Time+Tide
IWC Portugieser Editor’s note While Sep 11, 2019

Explaining a legend – the history of the IWC Portugieser

Editor’s note: While the Pilot might be IWC’s hero of the hour, the equally large but more classically inspired Portugieser is an equally important line. Felix finds out why …  There’s a good reason the Portugieser collection is one of IWC’s most popular (in Australia at least). It’s a big, commanding watch that nevertheless possesses … ContinuedThe post Explaining a legend – the history of the IWC Portugieser appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Editorial: Movement Finishing in the Instagram Age SJX Watches
Sep 10, 2019

Editorial: Movement Finishing in the Instagram Age

Thanks to Instagram, and social media in general, fine watchmaking has become something of a spectator sport. Roger W. Smith’s YouTube channel has over 10,000 subscribers, and though he produces only about a dozen watches per year, his video about polishing the flanks of pinions has been viewed more than 115,000 times. Akrivia, which produces watches on a similar scale, has almost 40,000 followers on Instagram and their videos, which focus on hand finishing techniques, get thousands of views and likes. These numbers suggest a huge appetite among watch enthusiasts for information about movement construction and finishing. Yet while collectors now have unprecedented access to this kind of information, finishing is a highly nuanced topic that doesn’t readily lend itself to the brevity of an Instagram comment. This can make it difficult, especially for new collectors, to understand how finishing fits into the overall value proposition offered by a fine watch. What is finishing and why it matters Finishing is the process by which the components of a watch movement are treated between fabrication and final assembly. At lower price points, finishing is done by machine. At higher price points, it is often applied by hand. The results of good hand finishing are unmistakable, often cited as the main reason for drastic price differences between watches. I asked Akrivia founder Rexhep Rexhepi about the value of hand finishing, and he replied, “Let’s face facts – the differe...

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RECOMMENDED READING: Chatting to engraving royalty with King Nerd Time+Tide
Urwerk Sep 6, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Chatting to engraving royalty with King Nerd

Johnny Dowell has been on the watch world’s radar for some time (heck, we interviewed him here), having worked with Urwerk and others on some pretty spectacular production pieces, as well as numerous custom jobs. But, perhaps unsurprisingly, Johnny’s career in engraving didn’t start with watches - he went through the far more traditional route … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Chatting to engraving royalty with King Nerd appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hands-On: Roger W. Smith Series 2 “Edition 2” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus “Jumbo” ref 3700 Sep 3, 2019

Hands-On: Roger W. Smith Series 2 “Edition 2”

The Phillips Perpetual boutique in London officially opens this week with 40 watches encompassing all important genres of watch collecting, from a Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” to a Patek Philippe Nautilus “Jumbo” ref. 3700 (from the collection of Jean-Claude Biver no less). But one of the flagship offerings is an important example of independent watchmaking – a Roger W. Smith Series 2 “Edition 2” that’s “No. 1”. It is very much a quintessential, early Roger W. Smith creation with the hallmark elements of his watchmaking. But the watch is also historically interesting, being an example of the road not taken for Mr Smith. The forgotten “Edition” This watch illuminates an intriguing bit of early Roger W. Smith history. Shortly after Mr Smith delivered the first batch of Series 2 watches in late 2007, he decided to create the “Edition” concept. According to Mr Smith, the idea was to produce Series 2 as a limited edition of 90 watches in total, with 30 watches in each colour of gold. All Edition watches had 38mm cases and solid silver dials; the Edition 1 was in yellow gold, Edition 2 in rose, and Edition 3 in white gold. At the same time, Mr Smith also offered custom versions of the Series 2, which were also available in a platinum case. But as it turned out, most clients wanted a custom watch, rather than an Edition example. So Mr Smith discreetly abandoned Edition not long after, and only a five of each Edition were made. This is on...

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Seiko Introduces the Presage Spring Drive Enamel Dial SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Sep 2, 2019

Seiko Introduces the Presage Spring Drive Enamel Dial

Seiko has cultivated its Presage collection as one that offers watches featuring dials decorated with artisanal techniques like Shippo enamel or Arita porcelain, but at extremely affordable prices. Now Seiko has just rolled out the first-ever Presage watches powered by the brand’s best-known innovation – the Spring Drive, an electronically regulated mechanical movement previously only found in Credor, Grand Seiko and Prospex watches. And the Spring Drive has been combined with a decidedly more traditional face, with both new models featuring vitreous enamel dials. Available in either white or black, the enamel dials are once again produced by master craftsman Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team, who are adept at producing enamel dials of high-quality and in large quantities, but relatively low prices. The clean and slightly retro dial design, however, is the work of the design studio founded by Japanese industrial designer Riki Watanabe. After his death in 2013, the design of his work was entrusted to his colleague, who stuck closely to Watanabe’s ideals of functionality and beauty in the conception of the watch. The dial is characterised by a striking clarity thanks to the high contrast between the hands, hour markers and dial, as well as Arabic numerals in Didoni typeface, a favourite of Watanabe. Notably, the date is properly integrated into the dial design with a date wheel that matches the colour of the dial, while the combination of the contrasting...

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Wrist Watching: Two Legendary Broadcast Journalists And Their Truly Iconic Watches, Walter Cronkite And Peter Jennings Quill & Pad
Omega chronographs resident watch spotter Aug 31, 2019

Wrist Watching: Two Legendary Broadcast Journalists And Their Truly Iconic Watches, Walter Cronkite And Peter Jennings

Walter Cronkite and Peter Jennings were two of the best known and most respected broadcast journalists on American television. While Cronkite was known to wear a gold Rolex Datejust and Omega chronographs, resident watch spotter Nick Gould surprisingly found evidence of Jennings sporting a Heuer Monaco.

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RECOMMENDED READING: Material innovation in watchmaking – the new breed Time+Tide
Aug 31, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Material innovation in watchmaking – the new breed

If you’ve been paying attention to the wonderful world of watches for more than 15 minutes, you’ll have worked out that high-tech materials, often with fancy proprietary names, are a big deal. Isographs, Aeronith, Sedna gold, unobtanium and all the rest. This sort of fancy nomenclature is stock-in-trade of Swiss marketing departments, but it’s also … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Material innovation in watchmaking – the new breed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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You Are There: Monterey Car Week 2019 With Singer Reimagined And H. Moser & Cie Quill & Pad
H. Moser & Cie GaryG has Aug 30, 2019

You Are There: Monterey Car Week 2019 With Singer Reimagined And H. Moser & Cie

GaryG has been to Monterey Car Week around 20 times now to meet up with friends and enjoy the array of cars and, more recently, watches on display. While in recent years they have focused on the “big” events at The Quail and Pebble Beach, this year the group decided to add some variety and go off the beaten path a bit – with satisfying results.

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MB&F; and L’Epée 1839 Introduces the T-Rex Clock SJX Watches
MB&F; Aug 29, 2019

MB&F; and L’Epée 1839 Introduces the T-Rex Clock

Over the past five years, independent powerhouse MB&F; and historical clockmaker L’Epée have built a reputation on enormous and complex creations, making horological spiders, robots, rocket ships and UFOs. This year, the duo has teamed up once more to create yet another eccentric tabletop timepiece – a cycloptic T-Rex. The T-Rex was first unveiled earlier in the year as a one-off creation that was customised with a rider atop for Only Watch. The T-Rex minus its passenger has now gone into production and is available in three iterations with either green, blue or red glass dials. While the earlier co-creations had more explicit influences, the T-Rex’s odd form requires some explanation. According to the brand, the source of inspiration was an ornament found on the desk of founder Maximilian Büsser that comprised of a Christmas bauble perched atop two chicken legs. Like the Medusa launched earlier in the year, the T-Rex strikes a balance between mechanical and organic forms. The 26.5cm tall body of the T-Rex is fashioned from stainless steel, palladium-plated brass and bronze, while its translucent “eyeball”, which also serves as the dial, is made of hand-blown glass from the same Murano producer that crafts the bodies of the Medusa. The jointed legs of T-Rex were designed to suggest motion, while its alternating sandblasted and polished finishing give it a sense of realism. In fact, the legs were modelled on actual Tyrannosaurus Rex bones, using 3D scans of f...

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RECOMMENDED READING: Breaking down the hype behind the Omega Aqua Terra Ultra Light Time+Tide
Omega Aqua Terra Ultra Light Aug 28, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Breaking down the hype behind the Omega Aqua Terra Ultra Light

The headlines this week have been full of Omega’s latest Aqua Terra, the very matt, very lightweight Omega Aqua Terra Ultra Light. The major selling point has been its light weight of 55 grams, a new alloy and its fancy new disappearing crown trick. It’s made with golf in mind, but the potential is more … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Breaking down the hype behind the Omega Aqua Terra Ultra Light appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Bronze brigade – the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback Chronograph Time+Tide
Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback Chronograph Aug 27, 2019

Bronze brigade – the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback Chronograph

Editor’s note: It’s 2019 and bronze is here to stay. And I’ve got to say that, as far as trends go, this is one I can very much get behind. And while the combination of bronze case, heritage style and gradient dial is more common today than in the past, the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback … ContinuedThe post Bronze brigade – the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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