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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.
Hands-On: the Zealandic Iceborne Worn & Wound
Aug 21, 2024

Hands-On: the Zealandic Iceborne

Maybe it’s just me but I find the micro and independent watch world to be utterly fascinating. And it is so for many reasons, one being the sheer variety of options we have for all genres of watches which are available at a wide variety of prices. From GMTs and elegant dressy models to divers and field watches. And there are indeed many options to choose from in all of these categories. One of my favorite things about watch writing is bringing readers stories on the little guys, so I’m therefore pleased to be writing this article to tell you about the just released Zealandic Iceborne. A new brand founded in New Zealand by Derek Chuan whose project I’ve been following for the past two years now, so it’s nice to be able to get my hands on the prototypes.  Derek has been working on this project for longer than I have known him. And his idea of creating a watch which represents New Zealand has been on par with the recent trends of endowing watches with textured and nature-inspired dials. Between you and me, Derek has been working on this long before many other brands probably have. And this is just to say that the Iceborne has been a long time in the making and I believe it shows. Both from a visual perspective as well as from a spec sheet one. The Iceborne has a look of its own and it is made of the right stuff to be a proper field and adventure watch. It will be made available via a Kickstarter campaign at the introductory price of $441 USD.  $483 Hands-On: the Zea...

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Urwerk Marks 10 Years of the EMC with the SR-71 SJX Watches
Urwerk Marks 10 Years Aug 21, 2024

Urwerk Marks 10 Years of the EMC with the SR-71

Urwerk’s highly technical and unique approach to watchmaking is captured in the EMC SR-71, a limited edition of 10 pieces to mark the 10th anniversary of a model that has a built-in user-regulation device. This edition boasts a special and tangible link to military aviation with a crank handle from alloy retrieved from the fuselage of an SR-71 “Blackbird”, the famous Cold War-era, supersonic spy plane. Initial thoughts Although sci-fi and even extravagant in terms of mechanics, materials, and shapes, Urwerk timepiece have a certain hyper-functional, instrument-like quality to them. Trademark features like the “oil change” indicator make its watches feel like actual pieces of machinery. The original EMC was launched in 2014 as an endeavour in blending traditional watchmaking with contemporary electronics and micro computing technology. Though advanced, the EMC complication is esoteric and never really gained traction. However, for a specific niche of watch geeks and nerds, the EMC is an intriguing and original idea. The bit of an SR-71 “Blackbird” in the watch adds to the geeky appeal without being too gimmicky. The EMC is not the only watch with a piece of the SR-71 in it – in fact other such watches are mostly far less expensive – but it is certainly the most advanced and innovative. The Blackbird connection Fundamentally identical in terms of function and mechanics, the EMC SR-71 is special because it features components made from an alloy recast from t...

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Introducing: The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition In Stealthy Black Fratello
Mido Aug 21, 2024

Introducing: The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition In Stealthy Black

For the new Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition, the brand decided to release a black PVD version. At first, this might be surprising due to the Decompression Timer’s colorful dial. If you think about it a little longer, though, it makes sense. The black overall aesthetic ensures that the dial truly pops. […] Visit Introducing: The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition In Stealthy Black to read the full article.

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Hands-On With The Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef IV WatchAdvice
Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef Aug 21, 2024

Hands-On With The Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef IV

In this review, I get a hold of the fourth Aquis rendition commemorating one of Australia’s greatest natural wonders! But is it truly a standout? Let’s find out! What We Love: Dial is unique yet elegant and possibly timeless Wears extremely well Supremely capable movement for the price point What We Don’t: Uniquely coloured dials are always a point of caution Can it come in any smaller sizes? The price point is contentious Overall Rating: 8.6/10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Everyone loves a bit of independence in their lives. Having your own slice of agency signals freedom to do whatever you please – like buying watches, for example – without having to worry too much about the consequences.  But, of course, it’s not that simple. Agency, and by association freedom, can be an elusive thing, which is why we oftentimes find ourselves getting attached to characters, products and brands associated with the idea of finding freedom. Not everyone can break the Matrix like Neo, ‘Just Do It’ like Nike or beat up their boss like Stone Cold Steve Austin, so we live vicariously through those that operate, or are perceived to be operating, on an independent level. In the watch industry, Oris is one of the finest examples of freedom and independence in watchmaking. Having followed their slogan to “Go Their Own Way” since 1904, their perception of freedom is conveyed through their dedication to independent design, techn...

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Introducing – The Complex Urwerk EMC Gets A Stealthy SR-71 ‘Blackbird’ Makeover Monochrome
Urwerk EMC Gets Aug 21, 2024

Introducing – The Complex Urwerk EMC Gets A Stealthy SR-71 ‘Blackbird’ Makeover

Flying higher, longer and faster than any aircraft that came before it, the Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird is a legendary marvel of engineering. So much so, that it still inspires people to this day. People like Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner, the gifted duo behind the hyper-technical independent watchmaker Urwerk. Their latest is the EMC SR-71, […]

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An Omega Seamaster Diver 300M for the 37th America’s Cup SJX Watches
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Aug 21, 2024

An Omega Seamaster Diver 300M for the 37th America’s Cup

As the official timekeeper of the 37th America’s Cup soon taking place in Barcelona, Omega is marking the occasion with the Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup. A time-only version of the brand’s signature dive watch, the latest Seamaster features most of Omega’s material and movement innovations, including a laser-engraved ceramic dial and METAS-certified Master Chronometer movement. The special edition also sports yachting-specific elements, including a blue ceramic bezel with a regatta countdown scale and a seconds hand counterweight in the form of the America’s Cup trophy. Initial thoughts As a special or limited edition, the new Seamaster is not especially interesting since Omega does a lot of them, with several commemorative editions for each sporting events it’s part of. And it’s not just for sports but also the James Bond film franchise. But as a new Seamaster, the America’s Cup edition works well. For one it’s a good value proposition at US$6,500 on a bracelet, particularly given the specs and features. At the same time, the blue-and-white aesthetic is appealing, especially with the clean, no-date look. And there’s the subtle detail on the minute hand with a gradual colour fade finish that is novel and so far unique in the Omega catalogue. So leaving aside that it’s yet another commemorative watch – it could do without the large logo on the sapphire back – the America’s Cup edition stands out as of the more appealing Seamaster models. A...

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Introducing – Steel-and-Gold and Gradient Dials for the Longines Spirit Flyback Monochrome
Longines Spirit Flyback Presented last Aug 21, 2024

Introducing – Steel-and-Gold and Gradient Dials for the Longines Spirit Flyback

Presented last year by Longines as the flagship model in its recent pilot-oriented collection, the Spirit Flyback paid tribute to an important function for the brand, the retour-en-vol chronograph. While the authorship of the flyback complication is a topic that is still discussed, the winged hourglass brand produced its first model equipped with a flyback […]

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Introducing: The Longines Spirit Flyback In Steel And Gold, Green, And Brown Fratello
Longines Spirit Flyback Aug 21, 2024

Introducing: The Longines Spirit Flyback In Steel And Gold, Green, And Brown

Since its introduction in 2020, the Longines Spirit collection has become very popular. That’s understandable due to its modern design and great finishing. It also helps that many different versions cater to anyone’s needs. In 2023, Longines added a Spirit Flyback alongside its regular Spirit Chronograph. Upon its release, the Spirit Flyback was available in […] Visit Introducing: The Longines Spirit Flyback In Steel And Gold, Green, And Brown to read the full article.

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Microbrands vs. Independent Watchmakers: The Rise of (Relatively Affordable) Microbrands Quill & Pad
Aug 21, 2024

Microbrands vs. Independent Watchmakers: The Rise of (Relatively Affordable) Microbrands

In recent years, several factors have come together resulting in the exponential rise of microbrand watches. This new microbrand wave is one of the biggest developments in the broader watch market. I would mention here that not all microbrands are equal. There are many watches out there that, to be honest, are not worth your time. However, some microbrands are getting it right as Raman Kalra highlights here.

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Ming Introduces the Latest Watch from their Special Projects Cave, the Solid Gold 20.01 Series 3 Worn & Wound
Ming Aug 20, 2024

Ming Introduces the Latest Watch from their Special Projects Cave, the Solid Gold 20.01 Series 3

Ming is a brand that tends to elicit strong reactions from enthusiasts. They are certainly not to everyone’s taste, but those who love the brand really love the brand and are among the most enthusiastic collectors I’ve encountered in the watch world. I’ll be honest, Ming’s house aesthetic is typically not for me, personally, but I’ve gained a tremendous amount of respect for the brand as I’ve had a chance to talk to more owners about they find these watches so interesting. A big part of it, as it always seems to be, is the community built around that ownership experience. That community reveals itself in a public way via Ming’s Special Project’s Cave, a kind of skunk-works segment of the brand that is free to experiment as the brand develops new technologies. As Ming always points out when they release a watch from the Cave, the process always involves input from their customers, so you could think of the watches in this series as a real reflection of the brand’s owners. If that’s the case, their latest creation, the 20.01 Series 3, kind of proves my point about the vibrancy of the Ming community.  At a high level, the 20.01 Series 3 is a precious metal chronograph utilizing the excellent AgenGraphe movement by Agenhor. But when you get closer (and closer) you realize that the 20.03 is perhaps the brand’s most avant-garde creation yet, which is saying something considering some of the projects that have come out of the Special Projects Cave to this p...

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“I’d like to tell the women out there that having a bigger watch on your wrist is actually a very nice thing.” Ada Hegerberg, first-ever winner of Ballon d’Or Féminin Time+Tide
Aug 20, 2024

“I’d like to tell the women out there that having a bigger watch on your wrist is actually a very nice thing.” Ada Hegerberg, first-ever winner of Ballon d’Or Féminin

Norwegian footballer and first-ever Ballon d’Or Féminin winner Ada Hegerberg talks women’s football and watches with Andrew McUtchen.The post “I’d like to tell the women out there that having a bigger watch on your wrist is actually a very nice thing.” Ada Hegerberg, first-ever winner of Ballon d’Or Féminin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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A New Chronograph From Xeric Celebrates the Upcoming NASA Artemis Missions Worn & Wound
Aug 20, 2024

A New Chronograph From Xeric Celebrates the Upcoming NASA Artemis Missions

Xeric is a watch brand with a cult following based on a reputation for creating some of the most ingenious and affordable statement watches in the microbrand world. Their pieces are often conversation starters, featuring unusual time telling displays and lots of color. If you’re familiar with some of their avant-garde designs, it’s perhaps not a surprise that they have an entire sub-collection of NASA branded watches. It just kind of makes sense that watches with a decidedly futuristic, sci-fi inspired look would connect to the space agency. Their latest NASA piece, however, is almost subdued in comparison to prior efforts, and if you’re interested in jumping into Xeric but not ready for a watch with complex satellite time telling mechanism, the new Artemis Chrono might be your speed.  The Artemis Chrono is named for the NASA program that will bring human beings to the lunar surface for the first time since the Apollo missions over 50 years ago. Returning to the moon is an important space travel milestone so it’s no surprise that Xeric would celebrate it with a limited edition release. The basis for the design, according to Xeric, is an updated take on the tachymeter equipped chronograph, which of course is exactly the type of watch that has become famous as the space watch over the last five decades.  For the new Artemis Chrono, the bezel has become a focal point and is highlighted with bold colors and has been glass coated to aid in legibility and make the whol...

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Speedy Tuesday: Unraveling The Mysteries Of My Speedmaster 105.003-65 Ed White Fratello
Omega Speedmaster 105.003-65 Ed White Aug 20, 2024

Speedy Tuesday: Unraveling The Mysteries Of My Speedmaster 105.003-65 Ed White

Owning a vintage watch can be an enriching experience. It can also be frustrating and unforgiving when someone brings up an issue or inconsistency. Today’s story is positive, but there were instances of concern. Thankfully, luck entered the picture and produced a happy ending with this Omega Speedmaster 105.003-65 Ed White. First, it’s important to […] Visit Speedy Tuesday: Unraveling The Mysteries Of My Speedmaster 105.003-65 Ed White to read the full article.

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Introducing – The New MING 20.01 Series 3 with a Fused Borosilicate Dial and an Agengraphe Movement Monochrome
Ming Aug 20, 2024

Introducing – The New MING 20.01 Series 3 with a Fused Borosilicate Dial and an Agengraphe Movement

Founded in 2017 by a group of enthusiasts led by Ming Thein, the Swiss-Malay watch company MING has evolved from a small horological venture into one of the most intriguing independent watchmakers of our time. In 2021, MING introduced the Special Projects Cave, an initiative to foster customer involvement in creating experimental watches while advancing […]

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Introducing: The Ming 20.01 Series 3 In Rose Gold Fratello
Ming Aug 20, 2024

Introducing: The Ming 20.01 Series 3 In Rose Gold

It’s easy to fall in love with the dials in Ming’s watches. They’re often multilayered and offer unique material applications. The brand’s use of luminescent materials and simple, modern designs has me wondering what’s next after each release. Today’s 20.01 Series 3 delivers the answer, and this might be my favorite look yet. We’ve discussed […] Visit Introducing: The Ming 20.01 Series 3 In Rose Gold to read the full article.

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Introducing – A Special Omega Seamaster Diver 300m for the 37th America’s Cup Monochrome
Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Aug 20, 2024

Introducing – A Special Omega Seamaster Diver 300m for the 37th America’s Cup

In recent news, watchmaker Omega has recently announced the renewal of its role as the Official Timekeeper of one of the the world’s most intense sailing races and the oldest trophy in international sport, the America’s Cup. The brand began its partnership with Emirates Team New Zealand and legendary sailor Sir Peter Blake in 1995 […]

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A Useless Bit Of Consumer Advice: A Review Of The Cartier Tortue Hours/Minutes Fratello
Cartier Tortue Hours/Minutes We love Aug 20, 2024

A Useless Bit Of Consumer Advice: A Review Of The Cartier Tortue Hours/Minutes

We love to provide proper, useful consumer advice here on Fratello. Unfortunately, I won’t be doing that today. Instead, I’ll be writing about my experience trying on one of my favorite releases of this year, the Cartier Tortue Hours/Minutes. This is a watch that, even if you could afford it, isn’t available anymore. I thought […] Visit A Useless Bit Of Consumer Advice: A Review Of The Cartier Tortue Hours/Minutes to read the full article.

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The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer Gets the All-Black Treatment SJX Watches
Longines Mido’s latest Aug 20, 2024

The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer Gets the All-Black Treatment

Mido once again turns to its popular vintage remake with the all-black Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961. The latest in a considerable number of iterations of the model, the new Ocean Star stays faithful to the original in outline and features a trademark multicoloured decompression table on the dial. One of the smaller and less prominent brands in the Swatch Group stable that includes Omega and Longines, Mido’s latest is a limited edition of 1,961 pieces to celebrate the 80th anniversary of the Ocean Star model. Initial thoughts Vintage reissues are common enough they have become cliché, especially in this price segment. The Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 has arguably been iterated too often, each time in slightly different colourway, so the new version isn’t all that novel. That said, it is affordably priced – retail is US$1,480 – and boasts an original design thanks to the decompression scale on the dial. Additionally, this version with its black-PVD coated finish stands out against earlier variants with stealthy aesthetic that creates more contrast with the colourful dial. At the same time, the ETA calibre inside has higher specs than most movements in this price segment, a result of Mido’s parent also owning ETA. Stealthy thetics The stainless steel case measures 40.5 mm in diameter and 13.4 mm high, which give it the proportions of a modern watch despite the retro styling. The crystal is domed “glass box” style to mimic the PlexiGlas of the vint...

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W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Aug 19, 2024

Tool/Kit: Cycling in Style with Evan Perrone and the Forstner Pilot Ref. F-6B/346

Cycling and watches have more in common than just gears. These enthusiast hobbies also share a mindset and a style that seem to go hand in hand. In this edition of Tool/Kit, our pal Evan Perrone, a professional in the cycling industry, takes Forstner’s new Pilot Ref. F-6B/346 for a spin and talks to us about cycling and traveling on time and in style. Hey Evan! Thanks for being the subject of a Tool/Kit for us. Can you tell us and our audience a little bit about yourself? Where are you based? What do you do for a living? What are your hobbies? Hi I’m Evan Perrone, so glad to be chatting with you today. I’m a native Pittsburgher, born and raised, and that’s where I reside now. My current title is Senior Account Manager and Special Projects. I oversee account business in four states as well as sit on several category committees. These committees help shape future Cannondale’s bicycles and how they come to market. I’ve been with Cannonade for over 4 years now. I love it. I’ve been in the cycling industry in some semblance or another since 2003 and would consider myself an industry veteran. My hobbies do, of course, include cycling, but Worn & Wound has been instrumental in discovering my passion for and interest in watches. I also like anything with wheels, so that includes cars and motorcycles, including vintage varieties… I’m all about it. The post Tool/Kit: Cycling in Style with Evan Perrone and the Forstner Pilot Ref. F-6B/346 appeared first on Worn & Wo...

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