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Results for The 1985 Swatch Consolidation

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The 1985 Swatch Consolidation

How Nicolas Hayek\'s ASUAG/SSIH merger (1983) and Swatch brand launch (March 1983) rescued Swiss watchmaking from the quartz crisis.

Hands-On With The Vintage-Inspired Wren Diver 38 Seafoam Fratello
Jul 9, 2025

Hands-On With The Vintage-Inspired Wren Diver 38 Seafoam

Last December, I had a chance to go hands-on with the Diver One Snow from Wren Watches. This brand is the brainchild of Wrist Enthusiast founder Craig Karger, and the first efforts went over very well with watch fans. Labeled as a passion project, the Diver One and its success might lead to something much […] Visit Hands-On With The Vintage-Inspired Wren Diver 38 Seafoam to read the full article.

Parmigiani Turns to Cermet for the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph SJX Watches
Jul 9, 2025

Parmigiani Turns to Cermet for the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph

Sportier and a little more affordable than its more elegant cousin, Parmigiani’s Tonda PF Sport was originally available only in steel. The Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet swaps out that conventional alloy for a case of cermet, a composite of ceramic and metal. Notably, the entire case – bezel, case middle, pushers, and crown – is in cermet. Initial thoughts Parmigiani has iterated its popular sports into many variations, perhaps too many, but the Tonda PF Sport in cermet is one of the most interesting so far. While the material is not new to watches, it is usually employed for one or two components, typically the bezel. The new Tonda PF Sport Chronograph is almost all cermet, which is gives it an appealing a single-tone appearance that goes well with the clean styling. The new chronograph is available in Milano Blue (left), and London Grey Material aside, it is essentially identical to earlier versions of the Tonda Sport PF Chronograph. Though it is little changed in fundamental terms, that’s not necessarily a bad thing as the PF070 movement inside ranks amongst one of the most sophisticated chronograph calibres, especially in sports watches. The only downside of the new material is the price hike. The cermet model is basically a 50% premium over the steel version, which the brand will not doubt justify in terms of machining and polishing complexity, but it is still difficult to rationalise. The PF070 Ceramic and metal Cermet is a composite of ceramic and...

The Konstantin Chaykin Joker Meets Behrens’ Ultra Light SJX Watches
Behrens Ultra Light Building Jul 9, 2025

The Konstantin Chaykin Joker Meets Behrens’ Ultra Light

Building on the Russian watchmaker’s signature Joker timepiece, the Behrens x Konstantin Chaykin Ace of Hearts blends the European court jester with its Chinese counterpart – contained with Behren’s ultra-light, trapezoid wristwatch that was first launched in 2023 as the Ultra-Light 11G. Initial Thoughts One of a new breed of inventive Chinese watchmakers, Behrens has always excelled at novelty watches, thanks to a combination of creativity and competitive pricing. This sets it apart from both its domestic and international competition. European manufacturers in the same price range simply can’t develop base movements or even custom modules for small production runs, at least economically, while only a few other Chinese brands have built enough credibility outside the country to sell five- to six-figure watches internationally. The Ace of Hearts exemplifies what Behrens does well – while also being a collaboration with an established European independent watchmaker. The brand’s earlier collaboration with Konstantin Chaykin was well received, but didn’t stand out from other Wristmon models in terms of styling, so it’s good to see a new direction with the Ace of Hearts. In fact, the Ace of Hearts stands out even in comparison to the ever-growing Wristmon family. I find the sapphire case models most interesting, as the transparent case suits the airy construction of the movement and importantly, they are priced reasonably compared to Swiss brands. Movement The...

Hands-On With The Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Enjoy Life Special Edition Fratello
Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Jul 9, 2025

Hands-On With The Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Enjoy Life Special Edition

Last month, I had the opportunity to attend Soccer Aid, a charitable football match held at Old Trafford in Manchester. Norqain was the official timing partner of the event and invited a group of people to see the game and hear about the brand’s official UK launch. During the evening, we sat down with CEO […] Visit Hands-On With The Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Enjoy Life Special Edition to read the full article.

Hands-on – The SPB519, The Updated Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver GMT That Does It All Monochrome
Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver Jul 9, 2025

Hands-on – The SPB519, The Updated Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver GMT That Does It All

Seiko‘s dive watch legacy is long and rich, yet surprisingly, a mechanical diver with a GMT complication only joined the catalogue in 2023. The SPB381/383and SPB385 laid the groundwork with their “caller GMT x Diver” design, and earlier this year, the SPB509 brought meaningful improvements, including 300m water resistance and a micro-adjustable clasp, wrapped in […]

In A Royal Oak and Nautilus World, Why I Love The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Deep Stream Chronograph Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Deep Stream Chronograph Jul 9, 2025

In A Royal Oak and Nautilus World, Why I Love The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Deep Stream Chronograph

Ask and ye shall receive, dear readers! Well, within reason. Quill & Pad reader and frequent commenter Greg has been after GaryG for a while to write a piece on his Vacheron Constantin Overseas Deep Stream Chronograph, most recently in response to Gary's article on three “keepers” from his collection that don’t get a lot of wrist time. Gary didn’t include the Deep Stream on that list as it is a quite frequent wearer for him, but now its time in the spotlight has come.

DUG: The New Kids on the Block in Glashütte Worn & Wound
Nomos s workshops Jul 8, 2025

DUG: The New Kids on the Block in Glashütte

On a warm and sunny Saturday in June, I visited the inauguration ceremony for DUG workshop. DUG (Deutsche Uhrenmanufaktur Glashütte) is the eleventh company to establish itself in the watchmaking town of Glashütte. The last brand to open a workshop in this town were young independent duo, Kallinich Claeys.  The DUG workshop is just around the corner from Lange HQ, across from Glashütte Watch Museum, and on the steep road leading up to one of Nomos’s workshops. The building previously belonged to C.H. Wolf, and there is still some old signage around the building. It is a modern and fairly large building for a micro-brand to occupy. It has tall ceilings and a row of new watchmaker benches along with a few administrative and conference rooms. It could easily host a medium size watch company. The DUG workshop Toni Brodführer, founder and Managing Director of DUG, is planning to move in there before the end of the year with three watchmakers. He is also open to sharing the space with other small watch companies. At the opening ceremony, I was pleased to run into Thibault Claeys and Johannes Kallinich, who were impressed by the building and seemed to like what Toni is doing. Before I get back to my observations about the brand and the newest watches, I interviewed Toni to get some background and context of owning and operating a new micro-brand in Glashütte.  Toni’s journey of DUG began with a personal passion for watches. He had been fascinated with watches since his...

Introducing – The Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Taupe… Surprisingly Streamlined Monochrome
Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Taupe… Jul 8, 2025

Introducing – The Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Taupe… Surprisingly Streamlined

Hublot… A brand that brings heated conversations and opinions. Hublot is surely known for its bold moves, disruptive materials and colours you can spot across the room. Baby blue sapphire case, snake pattern on the bezel, multicoloured ceramic that looks… questionable. You name it. Yet, Hublot also knows how to use its signature Classic Fusion […]

First Look – The New Schwarz Etienne 1902 Réserve de Marche, a Contemporary Classic Rooted in Tradition Monochrome
Schwarz Etienne 1902 Réserve de Marche Jul 8, 2025

First Look – The New Schwarz Etienne 1902 Réserve de Marche, a Contemporary Classic Rooted in Tradition

The romantically inclined would agree that there is a certain intimacy in winding a watch by hand, a moment of pause, intention, and awareness of time’s passage. With its latest creation, the 1902 Réserve de Marche, Schwarz Etienne invites that quiet ritual back into the rhythm of daily life, full of automatically performed actions. Building […]

Dialed-In: the NOMOS Minimatik 39 and a Summer Wedding Style Guide Worn & Wound
Nomos Minimatik 39 Jul 7, 2025

Dialed-In: the NOMOS Minimatik 39 and a Summer Wedding Style Guide

Editor’s Note: Today, Brett Braley-Palko kicks off a new series. Dialed-In is an irreverent take on the classic style guide, with practical style suggestions for specific situations, built around watches we love. Today, as we barrel into the height of summer, Brett considers the challenges of dressing for a summer wedding with the NOMOS Minimatik 39 laying the groundwork. There is a difference between dressing and styling. Dressing is what I’m doing right now while I type this: I have on a pair of shorts from high school and a Rolling Stones t-shirt I got on sale at Urban Outfitters. But styling? That’s a bit harder to define – and even harder to achieve. While we all want to put our best foot forward, sartorially speaking, it ain’t easy, folks. You have to think about fit, cut, fabric, color. And while many of us know the basics, sometimes mastering a few practical tips is all it takes to look (and feel!) your best. And there’s no better place to get a masterclass on dressing well than a Summer wedding, where you’re not only navigating those pesky sartorial rules, but trying to figure out what the hell the invitation meant by “black tie casual” and how to not sweat through your jacket before the ceremony even starts.  Building an Outfit Looking good for a Summer wedding isn’t impossible, but it does require a little more pre-planning than, say, the usual black-suit-white-shirt ensemble that’s the default for the cooler months. Summer allows for peop...

First Look – The New Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon with a Green Marble Dial Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Jul 7, 2025

First Look – The New Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon with a Green Marble Dial

Incredibly, only eleven years have elapsed since Bulgari pitted its first gladiator in the arena of ultra-thin watches. Not only did the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon of 2014 astonish the world with its razor-thin, record-breaking 1.95mm tourbillon movement, but it also conquered the hearts of many with its seductive Italian good looks. With ten world records […]

Seiko Commemorates the World Athletics Championships with a Limited Edition Purple Speedtimer Worn & Wound
Seiko Commemorates Jul 7, 2025

Seiko Commemorates the World Athletics Championships with a Limited Edition Purple Speedtimer

The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer is one of those watches that is just incredibly easy to recommend. It runs on a solar powered quartz movement, which makes it ultra practical and reliable. It’s styled to look a little like classic vintage chronographs that we love, but isn’t an on-the-nose recreation of any in particular. And they come in an easy to wear 39mm case, a fairly neutral size for just about any wrist. They’re also relatively affordable, coming in well under $1,000.  Seiko has released several of these “SSC” Speedtimers in recent years in a variety of colorways. The latest is a limited edition for the World Athletics Championships, which this year returns to Tokyo for the first time in 34 years. Seiko has been the official timekeeper of the World Athletics organization since 1987 and has made a number of watches to commemorate the partnership in that time.  This Speedtimer would seem to capitalize on a fairly persistent trend in the watch world: the purple dial. According to Seiko, the tone of this dial in particular is inspired by “Edo purple”, a shade long associated with the city of Tokyo. This color has also been designated as the official color of this year’s World Athletics Championships event.  The purple base is accented with black chronograph subdials and a black tachymeter bezel, along with applied faceted hour markers and lume filled hands that have been outlined in black for increased legibility. The black and purple combination works w...