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Results for Manufacture vs Etablisseur

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Manufacture vs Etablisseur

The structural difference between brands that make their own movements (manufactures) and those that buy them (etablisseurs).

New: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R Deployant
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Mar 28, 2023

New: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R

Patek Philippe presents the new Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R, featuring the manufacture’s patented annual calendar mechanism from 1996. Press Release details with commentary in italics. Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R is a regular production timepiece, with a retail price of USD61,510. Commentary PatekRead More

VIDEO: A Sneak Peek at Vacheron Constantin’s 2023 Novelties Revolution
Vacheron Constantin s 2023 Novelties Eleonor Mar 27, 2023

VIDEO: A Sneak Peek at Vacheron Constantin’s 2023 Novelties

Eleonor visits Vacheron Constantin’s manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates a couple of weeks before Watches and Wonders and the maison’s Style and Heritage Director, Christian Selmoni gives us a sneak preview of some of the novelties that will be launched at the fair. The retrograde complication is the theme for this year and we take a closer […]

The new Grand Seiko SBGZ009 is a handsomely hand-engraved holy grail Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGZ009 Mar 27, 2023

The new Grand Seiko SBGZ009 is a handsomely hand-engraved holy grail

The new Grand Seiko SBGZ009 is a hand-made Micro Artist Studio creation displaying the ultimate finishing of the manufacture. This unofficial sequel to the SBGZ001 is white-birch driven versus snowflake driven. Will GS collectors feel like the SBGZ009 steps on the toes of SBGZ001 owners?. If you’re just starting your journey into Grand Seiko enthusiasm, … ContinuedThe post The new Grand Seiko SBGZ009 is a handsomely hand-engraved holy grail appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Owner’s Perspective: With The Rolex Sea-Dweller 50th Anniversary “SD43” WatchAdvice
Rolex Sea-Dweller 50th Anniversary “SD43” Feb 1, 2023

The Owner’s Perspective: With The Rolex Sea-Dweller 50th Anniversary “SD43”

Why I Bought It It was different to a SubmarinerI like slightly larger watchesAll the Rolex heritage with a modern look The Ownership Reality It would help if you had a medium-sized wrist to pull it offNot great with a suit and cuffWe need to part with over $4000 more to own vs a Sub with a date! Overall rating: 8.25 /10 Value for money: 7/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 I was never a Rolex lover. There I said it. I thought Rolex was a brand for people that wanted to show off and tell people they had money and didn’t really know about watches. For some people, this is still probably the case, but this all changed for me many years ago once I started delving a lot more into the watch world, brands and their history, as well as their manufacturing techniques. And when I started researching Rolex a little, I started to understand just what made them tick, so to speak (yes, bad pun intended!) Now, I have a lot of respect for The Crown, what they stand for, and the processes and materials they use. The fact that they are one of the very few brands that develop and make their watches fully in-house, end to end, including metallurgists who develop the specific properties and proprietary blends of metals that go into them, including a foundry, I was a convert. These days I see Rolex for what Hans Wilsdorf originally intended – a tool watch that is able to handle whatever you throw at them and is designed for specific industries and occupations. Whilst mos...

Hands-On with the Dievas Maya MKIII Worn & Wound
Sinn Damasko UTS Archimede Jan 25, 2023

Hands-On with the Dievas Maya MKIII

Dievas is a cult microbrand even to those who are fans of cult microbrands. Founded in 2006, they are one of the OG independent tool watch brands. Following in the footsteps of Sinn, Damasko, UTS, Archimede, and others, Dievas’s focus is on tactical, modern, overbuilt, high-spec sports watches that are made in Germany. Still a rare origin of manufacture, Germany conjures a notion of precision, quality, and value that perhaps even surpasses Switzerland (especially in value). This is particularly different as Dievas was created by the team behind Gnomon Watches, a Singaporean retailer. At the very end of 2022, Dievas announced a new model, the Maya MKIII, after several years of being relatively dormant (models were for sale via Gnomon, but no new launches). As the name suggests, the new watch is the third iteration of the brand’s popular, tactical dive watch, the Maya. Redesigned from the ground up, the MKIII is smaller, sleeker, and more affordable, while maintaining some very impressive specs and features. Priced at $1,090 on a strap and $1,240 on a bracelet, the German-made Maya MKIII is available in black, blue, and Sealab green. The latter, featured in this review, is not only different in color but in dial and bezel insert design as well, making it an outlier in the collection. $1090 Hands-On with the Dievas Maya MKIII Case Matte Stainless Steel w/ Clear DLC Movement Sellita SW-200 Dial Metallic Green Sandwich Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Bracelet Water Resistance ...

Zenith Defy Watch Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Jan 21, 2023

Zenith Defy Watch Guide

Swiss watch manufacture Zenith traces its roots to 1865, when it was founded in the village of Le Locle by precocious 22-year-old watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot. As one of the first watchmaking maisons to integrate all aspects of the watchmaking process under one roof, from case manufacturing to movement production to final casing and assembly, Zenith has long prided itself on its quest for timekeeping precision. The company has earned a record number of chronometry prizes over the years, and its most influential contribution to watchmaking history is its El Primero chronograph caliber, released in 1969. (Learn more about El Primero here.) In that same pivotal year, Zenith also released an avant-garde wristwatch series called Defy, whose bold, edgy design proved to be ahead of its time, and found its expression in the now-legendary Ref. A3642.  The Original Defy (1969) That watch was nicknamed the “coffre-fort,” a French term translating to “bank vault” or “safe,” a reference to its robustly angular, octagonal case, 14-sided bezel, and high-for-the-time water resistance of 300 meters, secured by its crown, caseback, and mineral crystal, all of which screwed securely into the case. Its “ladder-style” bracelet from legendary chainmaker Gay Frères also made the original reference notable. The Defy was positioned as Zenith’s toughest watch, featured in an advertisement in which six of the watches were strapped to the spokes of a motorcycle in a speed test a...

Training The Next Generation Of A. Lange & Söhne Watchmakers: 25 Years And Counting Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne Dec 20, 2022

Training The Next Generation Of A. Lange & Söhne Watchmakers: 25 Years And Counting

Not long after Walter Lange reestablished his forefathers’ company A. Lange & Söhne, once Germany’s most famous watch manufacture, he recognized that training the next generation of watchmakers would be crucial for both the long-term prosperity of his company and the local watchmaking industry and population. Sabine Zwettler takes a look at how that training has evolved.

HANDS-ON: The IWC Portugieser Automatic IW500715 is handsome and powerful Time+Tide
IWC Portugieser Automatic IW500715 Nov 15, 2022

HANDS-ON: The IWC Portugieser Automatic IW500715 is handsome and powerful

I recently tackled the new IWC Portugieser Chronograph IW371620, a solid summer watch that brings the youthful summer vibes to a classic and storied collection and manufacture. But a chronograph is not always everyone’s flavour. Unless you are dead-set on using a mechanical and analogue timekeeper for timing cars on the racetrack, or more realistically … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The IWC Portugieser Automatic IW500715 is handsome and powerful appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

More diamonds, more refinement, more options: The new IWC Portofino Automatic 37 Time+Tide
IWC Portofino Automatic 37 Sep 21, 2022

More diamonds, more refinement, more options: The new IWC Portofino Automatic 37

The IWC Portofino Automatic 37 has been a staple in the Schaffhausen watchmaker’s collection since 2014, largely targeted at their female audience. The new Portofino 37 models continue the feminine touches found in the original, with subtle design changes and technological improvements. This includes the introduction of a manufacture calibre, enhanced diamond setting and larger … ContinuedThe post More diamonds, more refinement, more options: The new IWC Portofino Automatic 37 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Exploring the deep-cased majesty of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty Sep 11, 2022

VIDEO: Exploring the deep-cased majesty of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty

The Tambour is Louis Vuitton’s most well-known watch design.  The fashion mega-brand has been slowly but surely establishing itself as a top-tier watchmaker since establishing Le Fabrique Du Temps, their dedicated watch manufacture, in 2014. Since then, several of Louis Vuitton’s watches have earned the Geneva Seal, a rarified standard of Swiss watchmaking reserved for … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Exploring the deep-cased majesty of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Guide Teddy Baldassarre
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 9, 2022

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Guide

The Lange 1 from German luxury watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne is an internationally recognized icon of modern watchmaking and the undisputed flagship of the Glashütte-based manufacture’s collection. And even though the Lange 1 has only been on the scene since 1994, the watch, and the company that makes it, trace their roots much further into history. From the pioneering watchmaker who jump-started a national industry in the 19th century, to his descendant that forged a new beginning for his family business in the 20th, to the evolution of a legendary watch into new and complex forms in the 21st, this the story of A. Lange & Söhne and the Lange 1. Ferdinand Adolph Lange & the Rebirth of Glashütte Few in the long history of watchmaking have had a more profound and lasting impact on a nation’s horological destiny than Ferdinand Adolph Lange had on that of Germany, whose industry is famously rooted in the town of Glashütte in Saxony. It was Lange (1815 - 1875), a native of nearby Dresden and a classically trained master watchmaker, who laid the foundations on which the struggling former mining town would build itself into Germany’s watchmaking center with the establishment of the original A. Lange & Cie. manufactory in 1845. Lange’s vision was not just for his own company but for the entire state of Saxony. When the apprentices that trained at his company had mastered their craft, he encouraged them to start their own factories and hire and train their own employees...

New Release: De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar Deployant
De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar DEPLOYANT Sep 3, 2022

New Release: De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar

This new perpetual calendar is fitted with a leather strap secured by a polished titanium buckle and accompanied by a second grey fabric strap. Vividly illustrating the technical and aesthetic expertise of the Manufacture, this new Reference DB25sQP marks its entry into the perpetual calendar collection and will be limited to a single production run of 15 units per year.

HANDS ON: Is this green Omega Seamaster 300 the most attractive ever? Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster 300 Aug 18, 2022

HANDS ON: Is this green Omega Seamaster 300 the most attractive ever?

Green, green, oh… green. In 2021, green was the undisputed colour of the year with every watch manufacture under the sun presenting a design in the hue. Sure, you can’t go wrong with a black or white dial – their versatility is unmatched. But collectors need colour to liven up their watch boxes, and even … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: Is this green Omega Seamaster 300 the most attractive ever? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Shows Off Its 2021 Rare Handcrafts Featuring Sky Moon Tourbillon, Minute Repeater QP, Golden Ellipse, Ladies First, And Nautilus Watches – Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Shows Off Aug 7, 2022

Patek Philippe Shows Off Its 2021 Rare Handcrafts Featuring Sky Moon Tourbillon, Minute Repeater QP, Golden Ellipse, Ladies First, And Nautilus Watches – Reprise

In 2021, Patek Philippe drew attention to the decorative arts that help make its watches so exceptional, further staking claim in the preservation of many of the traditional skills and techniques that date to the manufacture’s roots. The manufacture introduced six versions of familiar watch models that highlight Patek Philippe's Rare Handcrafts.

An NYC weekend with the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor When Jul 14, 2022

An NYC weekend with the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor

When people ask me what brand they should keep an eye on, without hesitation I say Parmigiani Fleurier. The manufacture, while less of a household name, has always created quality timepieces. But with the brand now helmed by CEO Guido Terreni, formerly head of watches at Bulgari, the Parmigiani catalogue is becoming stronger than ever … ContinuedThe post An NYC weekend with the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is this the strangest collaboration of 2022 so far? Zenith X Phillips X Kari Voutilainen Time+Tide
Zenith X Phillips X Kari Jun 2, 2022

Is this the strangest collaboration of 2022 so far? Zenith X Phillips X Kari Voutilainen

Precision chronometry is the ultimate test of any manufacture’s mettle. To win and set records at Observatory competitions not only results in a highly coveted award for a manufacture, but also a highly coveted timepiece for collectors to acquire. Herein lies what makes the Zenith calibre 135-0 so legendary in the world of horology. From … ContinuedThe post Is this the strangest collaboration of 2022 so far? Zenith X Phillips X Kari Voutilainen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Longines Ultra-Chron revives the first-ever hi-beat diver from 1968 Time+Tide
Longines Ultra-Chron revives Jun 1, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Longines Ultra-Chron revives the first-ever hi-beat diver from 1968

Heritage revivals are all the rage right now, and the manufacture that really kicked off the trend was Longines – the entire heritage collection range is devoted to digging into their rich archives and resurrecting their historic designs. From the Heritage Military to the BigEye Avigation Chrono to the Legend Diver (among others), their heritage … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Ultra-Chron revives the first-ever hi-beat diver from 1968 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The MB&F; LM Sequential EVO incorporates two chronographs in one watch Time+Tide
MB&F; May 31, 2022

INTRODUCING: The MB&F; LM Sequential EVO incorporates two chronographs in one watch

Watchmaking at times can be very predictable and with brands often merely switching up colourways in their latest novelties there is not always as much shock and awe as we would like. Not MB&F; though, you can always count on the independent manufacture to keep you guessing and make the jaws of horological die-hards hit … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The MB&F; LM Sequential EVO incorporates two chronographs in one watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: What’s not to Louvre with Vacheron Constantin Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin I know I cannot May 27, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: What’s not to Louvre with Vacheron Constantin

I know I cannot complain, considering I was just in London visiting arguably the world’s greatest watch collection, but watching Andrew from the sidelines this past week has given me serious FOMO. Vacheron Constantin, within their Métiers d’Art range, does not only represent the pinnacle of the manufacture’s capabilities, but also the pinnacle of craftsmanship … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: What’s not to Louvre with Vacheron Constantin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Atmos Infinite SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces May 16, 2022

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Atmos Infinite

Although Jaeger-LeCoultre has launched about a dozen new wristwatch models to date in 2022, the standout new timepieces from the Le Sentier manufacture are a pair of clocks that share the same aesthetic. One is the very expensive Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590, and the other is the far more affordable Atmos Infinite. Most Atmos clocks are defined by their boxy exterior and classical dial, with the notable exceptions being those designed by collaborations like Apple designer Marc Newson and Hermes. Reminiscent of Mr Newson’s Atmos designs, the Infinite features a clean, monochromatic movement in a seamless glass cylinder, instantly setting it apart from the rest of the Atmos lineup. Initial thoughts Sitting alongside the Patek Philippe Dome Clock as an iconic timepiece in the clock category, the Atmos is one of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s best products in concept and execution. It’s powered by a simple yet ingenious mechanism that’s so effective it remains unchanged after almost a century. And it is offered in a surprisingly wide range of designs, many of which are affordable, with the entry-level model starting at just over US$7,000. The Atmos Transparente, a more typical example of the clock with its four-sided glass box But most Atmos designs feel dated, being more or less unchanged since the 1950s. The exceptions were the limited editions by the likes of Mr Newson and Hermes, which were all much more expensive. The most recent Atmos Newson, for instance, retails for...

VIDEO: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Edition “Mercedes-AMG Petronas F1 Team” Time+Tide
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 May 15, 2022

VIDEO: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Edition “Mercedes-AMG Petronas F1 Team”

Launched at the inaugural Miami F1 Grand Prix, the new IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Edition “Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team” is the next step in the partnership between the Schaffhausen manufacture and the team, dating back to 2013 when IWC first became a team sponsor. It’s the first-ever official watch for the team – … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Edition “Mercedes-AMG Petronas F1 Team” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Liverpool’s Jurgen Klopp has a few reasons to smile, including a new watch purchase Time+Tide
May 9, 2022

Liverpool’s Jurgen Klopp has a few reasons to smile, including a new watch purchase

Elite athletes seem to be taking more and more interest in our little corner of the world. From LeBron James sporting the AP Black Panther Concept Watch, Liverpool teammates Jordan Henderson and Virgil Van Dyk visiting the AP manufacture to NFL legend Tom Brady taking a stake in HODINKEE, many high-profiles athletes are packing serious … ContinuedThe post Liverpool’s Jurgen Klopp has a few reasons to smile, including a new watch purchase appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The new IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Edition “Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula OneTM Team” Time+Tide
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 May 5, 2022

HANDS-ON: The new IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Edition “Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula OneTM Team”

When the new IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 collection was unveiled last year, watch buyers rejoiced in its more compact sizing and increased versatility – introducing a bracelet for the first time and the all new Eas-XCHANGE® quick-release strap system. While pilot’s watches are what IWC is particularly known for, the Schaffhausen manufacture has been … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Edition “Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula OneTM Team” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.