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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Did Longines Give The Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve A Modern Makeover? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Longines Give Jul 30, 2026

Did Longines Give The Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve A Modern Makeover? (Hands-On)

Longines have created a new spin on a heritage design, but have they done enough to give the unique watch a modern kick? Let’s find out! What We Love: A modern but non-generic colour & finish Universal, easy-wearing dimensions Unique heritage-inspired complication What We Don’t: Questionable lume Movement finishing somewhat lacking How new can an ‘old’ watch be? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Heritage revivals have become a huge part of the modern watch industry. Everywhere you look, there’s another release that’s either an exact copy of, or inspired by, a design from a bygone era. While these watches have returned to varying degrees of success, they typically all share one common thread: they put their fingers on the pulse of the watch community to see which past designs have proved wildly popular, then remaster them accordingly. Longines, however, has started to behave a little differently. While the brand has found plenty of success bringing back watches from its vast archive (case in point, the Ultra-Chron) they use them as a celebration of its brand identity, inviting the watch community to celebrate alongside it. That doesn’t mean chasing what’s popular, but rather embracing what makes Longines so distinctive in a sea of sameness. Perhaps the best example of this is the Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve. Inspired by a design from 1959, the watch was brought bac...

Introducing: The Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor Limited Edition Hodinkee
Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor Limited Jul 30, 2026

Introducing: The Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor Limited Edition

What We Know A funky new dial is probably the least surprising thing to come from Ming these days, but somehow, the new Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor still feels like a compelling play on the brand's two-hander 37-series design. This time around, Ming doubles down on its Malaysian roots for a collaboration with Malaysian pewter brand Royal Selangor. What we get is a dramatically hammered pewter dial, made by Royal Selangor in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. The grooves and scales of the hammering are quite exaggerated for the size of the dial, which offers an uninterrupted surface for the hammering without any printing or applied markers. With this expansive, highly textured dial, Ming's usage of the top sapphire crystal as an alternative place for dial markings is very useful, with the underside of the top sapphire crystal engraved and infilled with Super-LumiNova X1 for a luminescent track with hour markers and Ming's logo at the top that floats above the hammered pewter surface. It's complemented by the distinctive blued 37-series handset, also coated with a generous amount of Super-LumiNova. The luster of the dial is framed by the more demure look of a fully-brushed grade-2 titanium case, with a diameter of 38mm, a thickness of 11.05mm, and a compact lug-to-lug of 44.73mm. Engraved on the periphery of the exhibition caseback is Ming and Royal Selangor branding, and through the sapphire crystal, the automatic Sellita for MING SW300.M1 is seen in full view. Yes, on paper the movemen...

Introducing - The Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor, with Hammered Pewter Dial Monochrome
Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor Jul 30, 2026

Introducing - The Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor, with Hammered Pewter Dial

Founded in 2017 by photographer Ming Thein and headquartered in Kuala Lumpur, Ming is a design-driven independent watch brand distinguished by a contemporary aesthetic in which minimalism, luminescence and layered construction all play defining roles. For the latest release, Ming strays from its usual course, turning to traditional craftsmanship for the dial of the new […]

Hanhart Introduces the Square by Square, a Limited Edition of Six Prototypes Worn & Wound
Jul 28, 2026

Hanhart Introduces the Square by Square, a Limited Edition of Six Prototypes

What do you think of when you think of Hanhart? I think it’s fair to say that for most of us, the watches that come to mind immediately are very distinctly tool oriented watches. Aviation inspired chronographs with that iconic red pusher, simple but tough field watches, and maybe a diver for good measure. And while certainly the brand dabbles in more elegant fare from time to time, a shaped design forward watch like the Square by Square feels very unexpected. But maybe it shouldn’t? We are, after all, in a moment where everyone is trying their hand at stone dials, shaped cases, and generally challenging the sensibilities of a market previously laser focused on sports watches.  Hanhart, of course, has been around for a very long time, and the Square by Square’s DNA can be traced back to shaped watches in the brand’s extensive archive. This is, however, a completely new design. The brand worked with Marcus Wiedemann, a Munich based designer they have collaborated with previously, on the Square by Square, which was originally an entry in the Dubai Watch Week x Grail Watch Design Competition. The design wound up being named as a finalist in the (very specific) “Most out-of-the-box, innovative yet viable shaped watch design” category.  What we have here is a case that at first presents as a square, but tilted so that it sits on the wrist in a diamond shape. The chief design inspiration here, beyond the Hanhart archives, is the idea of “curved spacetime” and th...

Introducing - The new Citizen Tsuyosa Shore “Time Slip” Limited Edition Monochrome
Citizen Tsuyosa Shore “Time Slip” Jul 28, 2026

Introducing - The new Citizen Tsuyosa Shore “Time Slip” Limited Edition

The Citizen Tsuyosa is one of the strongest contenders in the affordable automatic sports watch segment. Launched in 2022, the collection has steadily expanded with new sizes, colours and specifications, most recently gaining a more adventurous personality with the 100m water-resistant Tsuyosa Shore, equipped with a rotating bezel. Now, Citizen combines the sporty design of […]

A Promising First Encounter With The Updated Aera D-1 Diver Fratello
Jul 28, 2026

A Promising First Encounter With The Updated Aera D-1 Diver

Making a dive watch stand out today is genuinely tough. The archetype has been reinterpreted so many times that most releases blur together. The Aera D-1 Diver, however, managed to catch my attention with its less-is-more design philosophy. This modern diver uses fairly minimalist visual cues and combines them with a beautifully sculpted case. Add […] Visit A Promising First Encounter With The Updated Aera D-1 Diver to read the full article.

Owner’s Review: the Serica 5303-3 Worn & Wound
Isotope Jul 27, 2026

Owner’s Review: the Serica 5303-3

Over the last few years, Serica has emerged as one of these small indies or microbrands that has a real identity, seemingly right out of the gate. We often talk about brand like Ming, or Brew, or SpaceOne as new independents that are approachable and have a very distinct design language that you can recognize from across the room, but those brands have a cheat code of sorts in that they make watches that are unapologetically contemporary, or even looking toward the future. Having a genuinely unique perspective aesthetically when you trade in watches that have a vintage vibe about them is a very different proposition. It’s honestly very tough to think of a brand other than Serica that has attempted to do this and managed to pull it off so effectively.  The trick, I think, is that they’ve never attempted to actually recreate anything specific from the past. Rather, they’re inspired by vintage design codes, but feel a sense of freedom to interpret those ideas through their own lens. It’s not a modern lens, necessarily (I think that’s where a lot of brands get tripped up, trying to combine the aesthetic of a bunch of different eras in a single watch), but more of an imagined past, or alternate history.  Serica is not the only brand to take an approach like this. Isotope and Albishorn have both worked in a similar fashion in recent years, sometimes explicitly developing an elaborate fictional narrative to explain a watch (as is the case with Albishorn), and sometime...

Meet the New Seiko 5 Sports Field GMTs: The HDB001K1 and HDB002K1 WatchRider
Seiko 5 Sports Field GMTs Jul 25, 2026

Meet the New Seiko 5 Sports Field GMTs: The HDB001K1 and HDB002K1

The Seiko 5 Sports line has long been the gold standard for enthusiasts seeking a perfect blend of reliability, style and accessibility. Now, Seiko is elevating that reputation further with the release of the HDB001K1 and HDB002K1. Bringing the coveted GMT complication to the compact, rugged Field series for the first time, these timepieces are poised to become the ultimate daily-wear companions for travelers and adventurers alike.  A Design Built for the Real World Both the HDB001K1 and HDB002K1 honor the classic “trench watch” aesthetic that defined mid 20th century field timepieces. With a versatile 39.4mm case diameter, these watches offer a refined, manageable footprint that sits comfortably on almost any wrist.  The build is undeniably robust. Encased in high-quality stainless steel and featuring 100m water resistance, these watches are designed to handle everything from rainy commutes to light outdoor excursions. The aesthetic is tied together by a sophisticated five row stainless steel bracelet, which provides a premium feel that pairs just as well with a casual weekend outfit as it does with office attire. At the heart of both models is the Seiko Caliber 4R34, a reliable automatic movement that quickly became a fan favorite. A Tale of Two Dials Seiko is offering this rugged traveler in two highly textured, military-inspired colorways: The HDB001K1 “Khaki Drill” (Green) For those who want their watch to look like it belongs in an overgrown forest. I...

Introducing - The Hanhart Aquasphere Dive Watch, now in Matte Black Monochrome
Jul 24, 2026

Introducing - The Hanhart Aquasphere Dive Watch, now in Matte Black

In 2024, German brand Hanhart went beyond its traditional pilot’s watches with the Aquasphere, a dive watch that combined robust specifications with the brand’s distinctive design. The new Aquasphere Matte Black, fundamentally unchanged, brings a darker, more restrained execution that emphasises functionality over flair. It swaps the original blue colourway with a black and white […]

The Seiko Star Time: A 1 of 1 Masterpiece Built to Track One Million Hours WatchRider
Seiko Star Time Jul 23, 2026

The Seiko Star Time: A 1 of 1 Masterpiece Built to Track One Million Hours

When a watch brand celebrates a milestone with a high-profile ambassador, we usually know exactly what to expect: a limited-edition colorway, a signed caseback, and a predictable marketing campaign. But to celebrate 10 years with Los Angeles Dodgers superstar Shohei Ohtani, Seiko threw out the playbook entirely. They didn’t just design a new dial. They spent three years engineering a completely bespoke, 1-of-1 mechanical marvel called the Seiko Star Time. The Inspiration: Shohei Ohtani’s Existential Question The Star Time wasn’t built for a catalog; it was built for Los Angeles Dodgers superstar Shohei Ohtani.   To mark Ohtani’s 10th anniversary as a Seiko brand ambassador, the company set out to build a true piece unique. The concept was sparked by a philosophical question Ohtani himself asked: “How much time do I have left in my baseball career?”   Instead of a traditional chronograph that measures elapsed seconds, Seiko spent three years developing a watch that tracks the steady, relentless accumulation of time.  How Do You Count to a Million? It uses a newly architected in house movement to drive a highly unusual display of five concentric rotating discs. As the discs rotate, the numbers pass beneath a red line on the inner surface of the heavily domed sapphire crystal.  One million hours equates to just over 114 years of continuous tracking. The outer discs move so slowly that their motion is entirely imperceptible to the naked eye. Seiko design...

The Ruhla UFO: A Memento of Mod and The Cold War Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Disco Volante 5093 took Jul 22, 2026

The Ruhla UFO: A Memento of Mod and The Cold War

The Gebhard Duve-designed Audemars Piguet Disco Volante 5093 took the horological world by storm in the mid-1950s, and there’s no denying that it remains an exemplar of well-executed watch design today. With the combination of the ongoing Space Race and Mid-century futuristic design movement came an influx of wildly shaped and uniquely proportioned wristwatches throughout the middle portion of the 20th century. One of the most popular designs was the UFO, with brands like Omega, Timex, Zenith, Gruen, and Ruhla employing this case architecture in their 1950s, 60s, and even 70s catalogs. While I’ve had the chance to own a Timex UFO model and handle an Omega Dynamic, it’s the Ruhla you see pictured above that really caught my eye. Why? Let’s dig in. Brief History of Ruhla and The UFO Model Ruhla’s watch production, initially named “Gebrüder Thiel GmbH,” began in 1892 with its “Fearless” pocket watch, becoming the first mass-produced timepiece put to market. Fast forward decades later to 1952, and the company is renamed “Uhren und Maschinenfabrik Ruhla,” or Ruhla for short, and continues production of watches and movements for both the domestic East German and international markets. Ruhla quickly found great success throughout this era, with their plant becoming one of, if not the, world’s largest watchmaking factory. By 1963, the Ruhla logo seen on my UFO example was applied to all the company’s domestic models and was used until the brand’s closu...

First Look - The Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT HBC001 and HBC002 Monochrome
Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s Jul 22, 2026

First Look - The Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT HBC001 and HBC002

Over the past year, Seiko has refined its Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT with several editions, including the 60th Anniversary SPB509 and the SPB534 Seashadow. Following the white-dialled SPB519, the latest additions, the non-limited references HBC001 and HBC002 in classic black or green colourways, offer the familiar design of the 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT with […]

Hands-On: The Raymond Weil A.R.T. Date Delivers Sport-Chic Style At An Accessible Price WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil A.R.T Date Delivers Sport-Chic Jul 21, 2026

Hands-On: The Raymond Weil A.R.T. Date Delivers Sport-Chic Style At An Accessible Price

Raymond Weil’s first integrated-bracelet sports watch blends 1970s inspiration with compact proportions and accessible contemporary luxury. What We Love A design inspired by 1970s integrated-bracelet watches Strong variety of colours and finishes Excellent integrated-bracelet option for the price What We Don’t No bracelet micro-adjustment Dial finishing could have more character Movement could offer greater autonomy Overall Rating: 8.4/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Raymond Weil has gone through quite a resurgence over the last couple of years, bringing the brand back into the spotlight and creating watches with genuine substance behind them. The Millésime collection, for example, helped reposition Raymond Weil when it was introduced in 2023, combining vintage-inspired styling with thoughtful design. It also won the Challenge Watch Prize at the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, showing just how well received the collection was. Raymond Weil Millésime Tri-Compax Review – The Best Colourway Yet? Since then, the brand has continued building on the collection, introducing various complications and aesthetic interpretations to keep it evolving. In fact, I loved the 2025 Millésime Tri-Compax Chronograph so much (see the review above!) that after having it in my hands for just 30 minutes, I placed an order for one! However, Raymond Weil’s resurgence cannot be built on the Millésime collection alone. This ...

Breitling Launches A Top Time Trio Paying Tribute To The Aston Martin DB5 Fratello
Breitling Launches Jul 20, 2026

Breitling Launches A Top Time Trio Paying Tribute To The Aston Martin DB5

Breitling has announced a series of limited-edition Top Time B01 Chronograph models celebrating the Aston Martin DB5. These three motoring-inspired chronographs feature a cushion-shaped case with subtle Art Deco grooves in each corner. Combined with pump pushers, the design delivers a distinct 1960s character, making the connection to Aston Martin’s legendary British grand tourer feel […] Visit Breitling Launches A Top Time Trio Paying Tribute To The Aston Martin DB5 to read the full article.

Hamilton x The Odyssey: Christopher Nolan’s Mythical New Watch WatchRider
Hamilton x Jul 19, 2026

Hamilton x The Odyssey: Christopher Nolan’s Mythical New Watch

If you’re a fan of cinema and horology, there’s a new collaboration that needs to be on your radar. Releasing right alongside Christopher Nolan’s highly anticipated summer blockbuster, the Hamilton x The Odyssey limited edition watch is a masterclass in storytelling through design.  Nolan and Hamilton have a legendary history together think of the famous “Murph” watch from Interstellar or the custom digital piece from Tenet. Designing for a Mythic Era The Khaki Field Auto “The Odyssey” Limited Edition takes Hamilton’s classic 42mm Khaki Field platform and completely reimagines it through the lens of ancient Greek mythology.  Here is how Hamilton brought the ancient world to the wrist: The Material: The traditional stainless steel case is swapped out for warm bronze. Not only is this historically fitting for the armor and weaponry of the era, but it means the watch will develop a unique, personalized patina as it ages.  The Dial: The vertically brushed black dial features a subtle bronze-toned pattern around the perimeter, directly lifted from the texture of Odysseus’ helmet (played by Matt Damon in the film). The Hands: Instead of standard pointers, Hamilton opted for bronze-colored, sword-shaped hands that reference the hero’s legendary blade. The 12 o’clock index is even modeled after a rivet found on his sword’s scabbard.  The Caseback: Flip the watch over, and you’ll find a lightweight titanium caseback engraved with Odysseus’...

Is The IWC Ingenieur 35 Superior Shrunken Down? (Hands On) WatchAdvice
Ming increasingly accustomed Jul 17, 2026

Is The IWC Ingenieur 35 Superior Shrunken Down? (Hands On)

The IWC Ingenieur 35 comes in a smaller package – but does it still make the same big impact? Let’s find out! What We Love: A well-wearing compact case Smartly proportioned without compromise Unisex appeal for the size What We Don’t: No micro-adjustment a missed opportunity Butterfly clasp felt fiddly What does IWC want the Ingenieur to be? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 10/10 Build Quality: 8/10 It’s a small world these days. Rapid communication, travel, and deeply connected economies are bringing everything closer than ever, and people are becoming increasingly accustomed to the appeal of compaction. No industry has been able to completely ignore the effects of downsizing, and in the watch world, that shift couldn’t be more apparent. Once considered the hallmark of vintage taste or dedicated enthusiasm, the small watch has found itself in high demand. More than simply a correction of a trend, consumers are increasingly drawn towards intent and proportion over hyper-tangible, bold statement pieces. Compelling watchmaking is no longer measured by square footage, and brands around the world have shifted to meet consumers where they are. This is especially apparent with the IWC Ingenieur as it exists today. Reimagined by Gerald Genta as a “Jumbo” model measuring 40mm in diameter, Genta’s revision earned fame for its ability to command presence through pragmatic minimalism and bold lines. When IWC re-released the col...

The Top 5 Current Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Models Fratello
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Models Another Jul 17, 2026

The Top 5 Current Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Models

Another Friday, another list! This week, we dive into the world of the modern Rolex Daytona. It’s one of the most debated watches among watch enthusiasts. Whether it’s about the Daytona’s aura, the fact that it’s become an unobtainium, or its design, people have a lot to say about The Crown’s iconic chronograph. Despite all […] Visit The Top 5 Current Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Models to read the full article.

The Ollech & Wajs Astrochron Vs. The Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph II Fratello
Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph II Jul 16, 2026

The Ollech & Wajs Astrochron Vs. The Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph II

Today, we are looking at two spiritual competitors in the dive-watch-chronograph market — the Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph II and the Ollech & Wajs Astrochron. Both watches are beefy, tough options for those of us after a dive chronograph, but they have different quirks and design personalities. This article came about after spending considerable time […] Visit The Ollech & Wajs Astrochron Vs. The Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph II to read the full article.

The Business of Watches Podcast: Guido Terreni (Chief Executive Officer, Parmigiani Fleurier) Hodinkee
Parmigiani Fleurier Jul 15, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Guido Terreni (Chief Executive Officer, Parmigiani Fleurier)

This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the leader behind one of the strongest turnaround stories in the industry in recent years. Guido Terreni joined Parmigiani Fleurier as CEO in January 2021 from Bulgari and has overseen a dramatic transformation in the design, style, and fortunes of the brand founded by master watchmaker and restoration expert Michel Parmigiani in 1996, with backing from the Sandoz Family Foundation. Under Terreni's guidance, Parmigian Fleurier has been transformed. Striving to convey the concept of "private luxury," the brand has released a series of surprising, elegant, technically innovative, and yet restrained timepieces under its Tonda PF and Toric model lines.  The brand has done nothing less than reimagine and reinterpret classic complications, including the GMT and, most recently, the Tonda PF Chronograph Mysteriéux, which stole the show, for many, at this year's Watches and Wonders.  In a wide-ranging conversation, Terreni unveils the philosophy behind the brand's discreet aesthetic and the structure behind its manufacture and organization. We discuss retail, production, and design concepts aimed at taking Parmigiani Fleurier to the next level in the hyper-competitive luxury space.   There's plenty of watch business and strategy to discuss, and we hope you enjoy the conversation. Be sure to leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an epis...

Introducing - The new Bell & Ross BR-03 GMT Green Lum Monochrome
Bell & Ross BR-03 GMT Green Lum Jul 15, 2026

Introducing - The new Bell & Ross BR-03 GMT Green Lum

Known mostly for its military-inspired and pilot’s watches from the BR-01 and BR-03 series, the emblematic circle-within-a-square design, Bell & Ross has long mastered the use of luminescent materials, either to amplify functionality or to create striking models. All marketed under the Lum series, this ample use of Super-LumiNova has become a signature and is […]

Hands-on - The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Date, a Truly Purposeful Three-Hour Dive Watch Monochrome
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Date Jul 13, 2026

Hands-on - The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Date, a Truly Purposeful Three-Hour Dive Watch

Dive watches are, by nature, rather conservative instruments. Since the 1950s, the basics have barely changed: a robust water-resistant case, luminous hands and markers, and a rotating bezel, often undirectional, graduated over 60 minutes. Blancpain played a big part in setting up these design codes with the Fifty Fathoms during the 1950s. Seventy years later, […]

Zenith Adds Two Colorful New Options to the Defy Extreme Collection Worn & Wound
Zenith Adds Two Colorful New Jul 9, 2026

Zenith Adds Two Colorful New Options to the Defy Extreme Collection

It’s a complaint heard often among the aesthetically-inclined: modern design just isn’t colorful enough. Cars come in white, black, or silver, houses are painted white with black sills, and our phones are just sleek black rectangles. But that tendency towards “millenial gray” (sorry millennials, it’s not really your fault) hasn’t dug its claws into horology yet. In fact, it seems to be quite the opposite, with bold new colorways and designs capturing headlines post-press events. Zenith isn’t new to the bright and vibrant trend in watches, but their latest DEFY Extreme Ultraviolet and Lapis Lazuli II certainly bring the hueful hammer home. At their core, the two new DEFY pieces are sisters, so to speak: both are housed in an angular 45mm case in microblasted titanium, and a carbon and titanium combination respectively. The aggressive design of said case sets the stage for Zenith’s “more is more” mentality with the DEFY models, which come in at a chunky (but lightweight) 15.4mm in thickness and 51mm lug-to-lug. These are not wallflower watches, and every point of the design proves that.  The Extreme Ultraviolet does a lot of work with its name, which is a more than adequate descriptor for the watch itself. The dial is a visual cornucopia, with a violet-tinted sapphire crystal that showcases the matching violet subdials and layered geometric construction. The Zenith name and star logo at 12 o’clock is the only visual breather on the dial, with the movem...