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Introducing - The new Formex Essence Ceramica Dark Matter Redshift Monochrome
Formex Essence Ceramica Dark Matter Oct 16, 2026

Introducing - The new Formex Essence Ceramica Dark Matter Redshift

Building on the original Essence Ceramica introduced in March 2025 and the distinctive Dark Matter meteorite dial that followed, Formex is back at work with a bolder take on its sports watch. Using motorsport as an inspiration, the new Essence Ceramica Dark Matter Redshift combines new finishes for the case, colorful accents and a powerful movement. […]

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
De Rijke & Co Makes Oct 15, 2026

De Rijke & Co. Makes the Capri Collection a Permanent Fixture of Its Catalog with Three Staple Colorways

At Windup last fall, De Rijke & Co. made a surprise unveiling of the Capri collection, marked by its distinctive ultra-thin rectangular case, unique curved sapphire crystal, integrated shrouded lugs, and stone dials. As the year went on, the brand made an official announcement about the line, launching a poster challenge featuring hidden Easter eggs and offering further previews at other industry events like Milan Watch Week. As the calendar page turned to 2026, pre-orders for the anticipated limited edition Capri finally opened for the initial iterations in black onyx, black aventurine, and blue capri produced in just 50 pieces each. Now, the brand ushers the model into its permanent catalog with three new dial colors: champagne, salmon, and silver. Within each dial variant, there is a balance of subtle nuances and stylistic throughlines. Each version carries a fine textured frosted dial composition that catches and diffuses the light, bringing out the broader spectrum of tones within each of the neutral colorways. De Rijke & Co. has made this effect deliberately subtle. Rather than relying on gloss or decoration, the dials reveal themselves through the curvature across the dial and crystal that’s a defining feature of the Capri. However, each dial shade also has its own cheeky personality. The salmon model offers a fresh take on a hue used throughout the history of watchmaking. Here, the warm pink tone is brought to life thanks to the contrast of the deep blue strap an...

Introducing: Noah x Timex Boatswain (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Timex Boatswain Live Pics What Oct 15, 2026

Introducing: Noah x Timex Boatswain (Live Pics)

What We Know Timex and Noah have announced the latest in their ongoing series of collaborations, the Noah x Timex Boatswain. Here, the two have taken their Ellipse-style case and swapped out the dial. This makes for the third release from the two brands to make use of this case style, after the Oval Moon — with an oversized moonphase — and the Lighthouse watch — whose standout design detail was a sketch-like image of a lighthouse across the dial. In this case, both those details have been dropped in favor of a reined in nautical theme, which is most evident when looking at the inner track ring on the dial, which is patterned on a ship's rope. Beyond that detail, the Boatswain is, as a watch (dare I say it), rather conventional, with painted Roman Numeral indices, a slightly creamy ivory dial, and your choice of a gold tone or stainless steel case. The watches are double signed, with the Timex logo at twelve, and the Noah script wordmark at six. Hands and dial printing are, in all cases here, black. The case itself retains the same dimensions as previous releases, measuring 31mm x 35mm. The watches are water resistant to 30 meters, and come fitted on textured leather straps; brown with a stainless steel pin buckle on the stainless steel case, and black with a gold tone pin buckle. The straps are fixed to the case by a centrally mounted pin and collar bar, so strap changes are possible, if a little fiddly. As one would expect these watches are quartz. The Noah x Timex ...

Hands-On: The New Christopher Ward C1 Loco Classic Continues The Loco Series In Style Fratello
Christopher Ward C1 Loco Classic Continues Oct 15, 2026

Hands-On: The New Christopher Ward C1 Loco Classic Continues The Loco Series In Style

Contrary to what many watch enthusiasts think, a watch’s design usually starts with the caliber, not the case or the dial. Most of the time, the movement is the limiting factor that a creative team needs to build a design around. But there are multiple ways of solving the puzzle. One involves creating a different […] Visit Hands-On: The New Christopher Ward C1 Loco Classic Continues The Loco Series In Style to read the full article.

Introducing: Hublot Takes Us Back To The Beginning With The Classic Fusion Tributo Hodinkee
Hublot Takes Us Back Oct 15, 2026

Introducing: Hublot Takes Us Back To The Beginning With The Classic Fusion Tributo

This story has been republished from our friends at Hodinkee Australia. What We Know Today, a luxury sports watch with a rubber strap is nothing revolutionary, but in 1980 it was scandalous. Italian watchmaker and entrepreneur Carlo Crocco fired the starting gun on a casual-luxury sports watch revolution when he combined a gold case with a rubber strap to build his ultimate Mediterranean summer watch: the MDM 'La Hublot.' Turns out his idea caught on and was quickly embraced by royalty in Monaco, Spain and Sweden, to name just a few. An archival shot of Carlo Crocco posing with early MDM Hublot models. Rarely-seen 'pre-Biver' Hublots, including chronographs and a dive watch. The original MDM 'La Hublot' and the new Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo. It's hard to imagine that Hublot is almost 50 years old. We as collectors tend to think of it as a young brand - and in many senses, it still is - but a half-century ain't nothing to sniff at. 46 years after its inaugural release, Hublot is going all the way back to its Carlo Crocco roots with the Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo, a standard-production watch that pays tribute to where the maverick brand started, made with the input of Mr Crocco himself (who officially exited Hublot in 2008). This release encompasses two models in 38mm, one in yellow gold and one in white gold, both housing a Zenith-sourced movement. In a departure from the standard Classic Fusion, the Tributo returns to the original MDM Hublot's 12-screw bezel design ...

Hands On: Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo SJX Watches
Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo Oct 15, 2026

Hands On: Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo

The Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo returns to Carlo Crocco’s original 1980 design, when Hublot was the name of a watch made by MDM Genève. The Tributo’s 38 mm gold case restores the original 12-screw bezel, while a Zenith-derived automatic replaces quartz beneath an austere black dial. The yellow gold variant sticks close to the original design, while its white gold sibling pairs a black onyx dial with blackened bezel screws for a high-contrast monochromatic look. Initial thoughts While today Hublot is almost synonymous with the Big Bang and other large, sometimes extravagant watches, the brand’s origin as a single model made by MDM Genève is rooted in Italian elegance. The original quartz-powered model from 1980 was the first watch to pair a precious metal case with a rubber strap, a then-unheard-of configuration that was nonetheless perfectly suited to la dolce vita in the Italian sun. The Classic Fusion Tributo honours founder Carlo Crocco’s original design, complete with 12 bezel screws and a low-profile feel on the wrist, while being sized up to contemporary standards and equipped with a competent automatic movement courtesy of sister brand Zenith. The white gold version’s onyx dial, an upgrade relative to both the original and the black lacquer of the 2023 remake, is another difference that taps into the ongoing stone dial trend. But it does so in a low-key way that makes sense for the design and doesn’t feel faddish. Curiously, the yellow gold version s...

Introducing: Hermès H08 Bleu de Malte And Blanc Chantilly Hodinkee
Hermes Oct 14, 2026

Introducing: Hermès H08 Bleu de Malte And Blanc Chantilly

What We Know Hermès has released two new versions of its H08 sports watch. It feels like the H08 has lived a lot of lives in the five years since it was originally released at Watches & Wonders 2021, and these latest releases bring yet another new look to a line that has expanded pretty steadily since then. Here, we have two new versions of the H08, each in a braided glass fiber composite case, but where previous watches that have used this material have coated it in a dark blend of aluminum and slate, with these new watches, Hermès has dropped the slate dust. The result is a lighter, brighter finish, complemented by ceramic accents in either bright blue or white. The blue watch also comes equipped with a rhodium-plated, "crystal sandblasted" textured dial, with blue details matching the ceramic bezel, while the white watch has a lacquered white dial. Each has details in Hermès' signature orange. Beyond the new finish and color, these are largely the H08 as we have come to know it, with a cushion-shaped 39mm x 39mm case, rubber strap, and Hermès' hallmark rounded numerals, and are powered by the automatic Hermès Manufacture movement H1837, a movement created exclusively for Hermès by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. Prices for each of these new versions of the H08 sit at $8,600. What We Think This is a pretty straightforward case of a new colorway, but a new colorway done extremely well. The H08 has existed in a funny position for Hermès since its release half a decade...

Introducing: The Original MB&F; Legacy Machine 1 Gets The EVO Treatment Hodinkee
MB&F; Oct 13, 2026

Introducing: The Original MB&F; Legacy Machine 1 Gets The EVO Treatment

What We Know We are six years into the reign of the Legacy Machine EVO, a sportier version of MB&F;'s most "traditional" (and I use that term loosely) watch designs, which had the added benefit of higher water resistance, a built-in FlexRing shock protection system, slightly less delicate dials, and a different case design that lends itself to the rubber straps. We've had the Perpetual EVO, Sequential EVO, Sequential Flyback EVO, Split Escapement EVO, and LM101 EVO. Now, the original Legacy Machine, the LM No. 1, joins the collection with two case materials: titanium and a limited-edition rose gold. It seems like case sizes are the most hotly debated topic these days, and MB&F; has never shied away from a large case. It's needed to accomplish the dramatic design and depth of the floating balance that hovers over the dual time display (now in sunburst-polished black, flat subdials). The cases are 42mm by 16.8mm, with a 52mm lug-to-lug and 18mm lug width. This brings one major update to the EVO series: these watches now have quick-change rubber straps, made possible by a case redesign (so this won't apply to swapping into other EVO series models). Another update: the original's vertically moving power reserve indicator is now more traditional, rotating side to side and pointing at an inclined scale. One of my favorite things about the Legacy Machine is that it's so wild in the front and more traditional in the back. The movement is still the Jean-François Mogard-designed cali...

Hands On: Wren Vessel SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Oct 8, 2026

Hands On: Wren Vessel

New York-based Wren has introduced the Vessel, an integrated-bracelet sports watch with an unusually elaborate sapphire crystal. Designed by Max Resnick under founder Craig Karger’s direction, its futuristic case and crystal mark Wren’s first departure from the dive watch format and help establish a broader identity for the brand. Initial thoughts The name Wren is a portmanteau of Wrist Enthusiast, the online watch publication founded by Mr Karger. The brand’s first watch, the Diver One, was introduced in 2024, and Wren has stuck to dive watches ever since. The Vessel, however, is anything but a diver. By venturing far beyond its initial design language, Wren has carved out considerable space in which to develop its identity. In doing so, Wren has taken a page out of the Berneron playbook with a sophomore effort that is almost as different from its debut as it could be. Perhaps because the look is so different, the Vessel features an aqua blue seconds hand and winding rotor to match the dial colour of the original Diver One. The Vessel’s design was penned by British designer Max Resnick under Mr Karger’s creative direction. Originally trained in automotive design, Mr Resnick has worked with several other small brands, including Anoma and VPC. The vision called for an integrated-bracelet sports watch that avoided channelling the same handful of historical designs from the 1970s. The resulting look has more in common with Alto than Audemars Piguet. The angular desi...

Hands On: Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue SJX Watches
Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Oct 8, 2026

Hands On: Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue

The Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue adds a dark blue ceramic case to the brand’s 500 m dive watch collection. It’s a more casual take on the Supermarine, with a restrained colour and carefully finished case that give the Sellita-powered diver a more stylish, less tactical character. Initial thoughts Sometimes it’s surprising how much difference a colour can make. In the case of the Bremont Supermarine, the navy blue hue of the ceramic case and bezel results in a look that is quite different from that of its black ceramic stablemates. The deep blue colour is very subtle, and to my eye looks less plasticky than some brighter blue ceramic competitors. The prominent texture of the brushing on the case gives it vaguely a metallic appearance, and it at a glance it could almost pass for PVD-coated steel. While ceramic is not a perfect material and can crack under extreme torsion or if dropped onto a sufficiently hard surface, the real-world benefits outweigh these edge cases. The natural scratch-resistance of ceramic pays dividends when changing straps, for example, as the spring bars cannot scratch the inside of the lugs when finding their seat. There’s also an ancillary benefit to ceramic, which is that service watchmakers will not be tempted to try to polish it. The Supermarine’s strengths lie in its finely executed dial and relatively slim case. The wave-inspired dial pattern is dramatic without being overpowering, while the 13 mm thickness and flat case ...

Beware Of The Shapeshifter: Introducing The 13th Roger Dubuis Excalibur Knights Of The Round Table Fratello
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Knights Oct 5, 2026

Beware Of The Shapeshifter: Introducing The 13th Roger Dubuis Excalibur Knights Of The Round Table

Welcome to a realm where time is told by 12 knights. Introducing the 13th Roger Dubuis Excalibur Knights Of The Round Table, a watch in forest green and, for the first time in the long-running series, a pink gold case adorned with handmade engravings called The Metamorph Merlin. The final watch in the Tale of […] Visit Beware Of The Shapeshifter: Introducing The 13th Roger Dubuis Excalibur Knights Of The Round Table to read the full article.

Review: Does The Cartier Roadster Deserve A Victory Lap? WatchAdvice
Cartier Roadster Deserve Oct 4, 2026

Review: Does The Cartier Roadster Deserve A Victory Lap?

Cartier’s Y2K darling has returned to the fold, but has it done enough to pick up from where it left off? Let’s find out! What We Love: Unique, shapely case Seamless wearability Fun, quirky aesthetic What We Don’t: Lack of lume for a sports watch Slippery, hard-to-operate crown Did the Roadster deserve a comeback? Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 Of all the watch brands that have broken through into popular culture, Cartier stands as one of the most significant. Ever the champions and pioneers of quiet luxury, the French jeweller-watchmakers have built up a remarkable reputation over the course of 179 years. As part of that esteemed legacy are some of the most iconic silhouettes in watchmaking. Truly, models like the Tank, Santos, and Panthère are easily recognisable from their shadows alone! But while these collections possess obvious cultural cachet, perhaps equally as interesting are the designs that are no longer with us. The archival graveyard of Cartier is surprisingly rich, decorated with references as beautiful as they are unconventional. Model lines like the Pasha, the Calibre, and the criminally underrated Drive still maintain cult followings, with dedicated fans praying for their beloved collections’ return even years after their discontinuation. This year did see one such design finally escape the Shadow Realm. Of course, I am talking about the remastered Cartier Roadster, which held a ...

Ladies First: Patek Philippe Debuts Gondolo 7043 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Debuts Gondolo 7043 Patek Oct 1, 2026

Ladies First: Patek Philippe Debuts Gondolo 7043

Patek Philippe expands its feminine offerings with the Gondolo Ladies First ref. 7043 in white and rose gold with the option of diamonds, or even more diamonds. Housed in the Gondolo case with ergonomic articulating lugs and powered by a simple, well-decorated movement, Patek Philippe pitches the inaugural quartz Ladies First model as an easy-to-wear, design-led watch for a discerning (and well-heeled) clientele. Initial thoughts The Gondolo Ladies First launches alongside a new marketing campaign, helmed by London ad agency Leagas Delaney, responsible for the well known generations campaign and the famous slogan, “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation”. Until now, “Ladies First” meant complicated watches, including the 2009 debut of Patek Philippe’s excellent hand-wound chronograph calibre, as well as a perpetual calendar and a minute repeater. In this context, a two-hand quartz watch is another first. The selection available at launch is arguably more characterful than the quartz-powered Twenty-4 models, and strengthen Patek Philippe’s catalogue in a segment that the industry has long overlooked. The indices on both the regular and jewellery models deserve special mention — the use of trapeze-cut stones, rather than more common rectangular baguettes, was, to my eye, a make-or-break decision for these dials, and Patek Philippe made the right choice. But, as usual for the brand, the value proposition may be ...

Introducing: Patek Philippe Revisits The Ladies First With The New Gondolo (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Revisits Oct 1, 2026

Introducing: Patek Philippe Revisits The Ladies First With The New Gondolo (Live Pics)

What We Know: Milan is one of the world's great fashion capitals. At the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milano, Patek Philippe fittingly unveiled the Gondolo Ladies First, a collection that revisits a significant modern women's watch for the brand while taking a decidedly different approach to its execution. The new collection comprises six versions of the Ref. 7043, all sharing the same 31 x 34.8mm cushion-shaped case. Three feature diamond-set dials, while three Joaillerie versions take gem-setting considerably further, with the dial, case, and lugs covered in diamonds. The watches are available in rose gold, white gold, or a combination of both, with colorful straps and gemstone hour markers, offering the most obvious departure from the more restrained watches that inspired them. That inspiration is the 2009 Ladies First Chronograph Ref. 7071, a watch that marked an important moment in Patek Philippe's history with women's watches. Patek Philippe had, of course, been making women's watches for well over a century. In fact, its first wristwatch—created in 1868 for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary—was a ladies' watch. But the 2009 Ladies First watch achieved something else. It brought Patek Philippe's new in-house CH 29-535 PS chronograph movement to a watch designed specifically for a woman's wrist. At the time, the watch made something of a statement. Patek Philippe was putting serious mechanical watchmaking at the center of a watch created intentionally for women, rather ...

The Business of Watches Podcast: Formex CEO And Head Of Product Development At Dexel Raphael Granito Hodinkee
Formex CEO Sep 30, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Formex CEO And Head Of Product Development At Dexel Raphael Granito

Formex holds a unique place in the Swiss watch industry. Born in the early 2000s, it featured a proprietary case suspension system and designs that reflected the origin of its name, 'forme extrême' (extreme shapes in French). However, the recession spurred by the Global Financial Crisis of 2008 dealt the brand a near-fatal blow, and it entered a period of relative dormancy. Then, in 2016, a group backed by one of its suppliers, Dexel, a Swiss component maker specializing in bracelets, clasps, and cases, as well as dials through its subsidiary Cadranor, took over Formex.  Raphael Granito, now in his mid-thirties, is part of the family business behind Dexel and led the takeover and revival of the Formex marque. He has steered the brand's development ever since, and a decade later, Formex is leveraging Dexel's manufacturing savoir-faire and R&D; to produce innovative, approachable-priced Swiss-made watches. The brand's evolution culminated recently with the Aria, a high-end integrated-bracelet titanium sport watch with an ultra-thin, micro-rotor manufacture movement designed by Horage, priced below CHF 6,000. That's a significant step up compared to the CHF 1,800 average price point for its watches.  Granito outlines how the brand has grown and connected with more customers, operating mainly outside the traditional retail structure. Still a family business, he hired his best friend from university to lead marketing and sales efforts. Formex has distinguished itself by offe...

A Personal Trip Down Memory Lane With The New Glashütte Original 70s Series Fratello
Glashütte Original 70s Series Immediately after Sep 24, 2026

A Personal Trip Down Memory Lane With The New Glashütte Original 70s Series

Immediately after I saw the images of the new Glashütte Original 70s series, I was intrigued. With the square case shape and textured dials, these new watches instantly reminded me of a classic Citizen watch my father wore in the 1980s, which I still have at home. As you’ll understand, a connection like that is […] Visit A Personal Trip Down Memory Lane With The New Glashütte Original 70s Series to read the full article.

Celebrating With The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 30th Anniversary Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Sep 24, 2026

Celebrating With The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 30th Anniversary

Today, Vacheron Constantin launches a special Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin to celebrate the collection’s 30th anniversary. This limited edition of 200 pieces pairs an 18K white gold case with a new, lighter azure dial. Although the underlying watch debuted in 2016, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar remains one of the thinnest full-calendar integrated-bracelet sporty watches available. […] Visit Celebrating With The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 30th Anniversary to read the full article.

Hands-On Review: Going Green With IWC’s Ingenieur 42 Green Ceramic WatchAdvice
IWC s Ingenieur 42 Green Sep 23, 2026

Hands-On Review: Going Green With IWC’s Ingenieur 42 Green Ceramic

IWC went green this year with the Ingenieur 42 Ceramic, and while we thought the black was good, this could be better! What We Love: The shade of green ceramic works extremely well The gold accents elevate the watch nicely The finish & light play make this a standout on the wrist What We Don’t: Still, the lack of the quick-link adjustment system on the bracelet The 42 mm case size may not suit all wrist sizes and types A full ceramic watch may not be for everyone, or suit some people’s lifestyles Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 When IWC released the black ceramic Ingenieur last year, I was pretty impressed with how well the watch worked in the metal, or ceramic, I should say. The Ingenieur is already a very distinctive design, and creating it in ceramic could easily have changed the proportions or feel of the watch, but IWC managed to retain what makes the current Ingenieur work while giving it a completely different feel on the wrist. IWC CEO Chris Grainger-Herr talked to us about this last year, and how much research and development went into making a 42mm-sized ceramic version to mirror the proportions, look and feel on the wrist as the standard steel 40mm. It was an interesting chat, which you can read all about here. It’s not easy being green, as the frog once said! But maybe, in this case, it is! Not content to rest on its laurels, IWC released a green ceramic version for Watches & Wonde...

Review: the Stowa Fieldwatch Terra Worn & Wound
Stowa Sep 18, 2026

Review: the Stowa Fieldwatch Terra

More commonly found in the sky than the field, Stowa watches are well known for their lineup of classic Pilot’s watches. They’ve branched out a bit over the years, but the Pilot lineup is what comes to mind for me most often when thinking about the brand. Today, we’re taking a look at their modern take on the field watch, aptly named the Fieldwatch Terra. The Terra comes in at 38mm, features a PVD coated steel case, and an impressive spec sheet that makes for an excellent watch to complement your EDC. Let’s take a closer look. $950 Review: the Stowa Fieldwatch Terra Case PVD coated stainless steel Movement Sellita SW 200 Dial textured matte green Lume white and orange SuperLuminova Lens Sapphire Strap woven elastic nylon Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 38 x 46.9mm Thickness 11.5mm Lug Width 20mm Crown screw down Warranty yes Price $950 Case Measuring in at a very comfortable 38mm wide by 46.9mm lug-to-lug, the Terra complements my 6.75” wrist nicely. The compact proportions are balanced out by the relatively large, wide open, and highly legible dial. Now that I’m thinking about it a little bit more, the watch probably wears bigger than the measurements imply, and that’s due to the slim outer bezel and large dial. More on that later. The case itself is crafted from stainless steel and then treated with a dark grey PVD coating. PVD stands for physical vapor deposition — it’s a technique that turns a solid material (the coating) into a vapor, and then...

E.C. Andersson Introduces the Timepod, with a Unique Lug Release System Worn & Wound
Sep 16, 2026

E.C. Andersson Introduces the Timepod, with a Unique Lug Release System

The Swedish brand E.C. Andersson is one of my favorite “IYKYK” watchmakers. They had a modest hit a few years ago with their Mytilus, at least among a very specific type of watch collector who was ahead of the curve on the current trend for industrially finishished, retro-futuristic designs in odd case shapes that are having a moment right now (see: Otsuka Lotec and others). What makes E.C. Andersson compelling to me though is not just their aesthetic and design language, which is certainly very interesting, but their business model, and what they actually do as a brand. They are, essentially, a machine shop, fabricating cases and other components from their own designs, and selling watches off a reservation system. Interested parties add their names to a list, and when a watch is available, you get an email letting you know your watch is ready.  Their new watch, introduced this week, is called the Timepod, and like the Mytilus before it, the case (and crystal integration) set the design apart and make it unique. The quirkiest thing about the Timepod is the lug release system, which allows the user to detach the wire lugs via the push of a button on the caseband. The lugs simply pop out of the square shaped case and (presumably) reattach easily by hand. E.C. Andersson says the system is specifically designed to inhibit debris from entering the case while still allowing ease of access to the movement and other components in the event a service is needed.  Is this lug ...

Hands On: Hublot Classic Fusion Balloon Dog by Jeff Koons SJX Watches
Hublot Classic Fusion Balloon Dog Sep 16, 2026

Hands On: Hublot Classic Fusion Balloon Dog by Jeff Koons

Hublot has just unveiled the Classic Fusion Balloon Dog by Jeff Koons, its latest — and arguably most striking — collaboration with a contemporary artist. Crafted from anodised aluminium, the case of the watch is delicately machined to almost perfectly replicate the creased, metallic look of a mylar balloon. The plump inflated look extends to the dial and strap, and the watch can be had in three different colours — red, blue, and silver — each of which is limited to 200 pieces. The Balloon Dog is powered by the HUB1710, an upmarket execution of the in-group Zenith Elite platform. Initial thoughts Jeff Koons is likely one of the few contemporary artists with mainstream name recognition outside the world of fine art. While he is arguably best known for his large-scale sculptures, including the Balloon Dog referenced by his collaboration with Hublot, he has had a prolific career and worked in numerous mediums. But it is his ability to replicate the tight, creased look of inflated latex and mylar in materials like stainless steel and aluminium that have cemented his status in the world of contemporary art. The Classic Fusion Balloon Dog taps exactly this expertise, crafted in anodised aluminium with a rounded, puffy form that transforms the sharp, angular Hublot style into something more soft and playful. The result is immediately recognisable thanks to the thoughtfulness of the execution. The familiar Hublot details are present, but have been carefully machined to loo...

Hot Take: Rolex’s Perpetual Padellone Annual Calendar Takes A Nod From The Past Fratello
Rolex s Perpetual Padellone Annual Sep 15, 2026

Hot Take: Rolex’s Perpetual Padellone Annual Calendar Takes A Nod From The Past

Rolex has added a rather unexpected complication to its Perpetual collection with the new Perpetual Padellone. Taking its name from the vintage reference 8171, the watch combines a 39mm case with an annual calendar and a moonphase display. At first glance, it is perhaps the dial that grabs your attention, particularly the blue enamel moonphase […] Visit Hot Take: Rolex’s Perpetual Padellone Annual Calendar Takes A Nod From The Past to read the full article.

Hands On: Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Sep 11, 2026

Hands On: Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator

One of the most appealing releases of Geneva Watch Days was the Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator. While not an altogether new model, the watch incorporates a number of welcome updates, including a smaller case and a more refined dial that resembles an instrument panel on the wrist. The L.U.C 98.02-L movement remains in service, and is both COSC and Poinçon de Genève-certified. Moreover, the calibre achieves an impressive nine days of power reserve and is neatly finished, as is typical for Chopard’s higher-end offerings. Initial thoughts Chopard has long been a steward of the regulator format. In fact, the 1963 Heritage Regulator marks 20 years since the brand’s first contemporary regulator wristwatch. The regulator format is strongly associated with precision clocks, but Chopard’s interpretation reminds me of an automotive dashboard — perhaps intentionally, since the brand’s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele is known for his affinity for vintage cars. The latest example is substantially improved over prior generations, with several nips and tucks that result in a move wearable and less busy package overall. The watch is tangibly well made, with an expensive bill of materials and refined execution. The 1963 Heritage Regulator is priced at about US$50,000, and is limited to a concise run of 25 pieces in (ethically sourced) 18k white gold. By current standards, it’s a reasonable proposition, but still slightly above the going rate for a Patek Philippe...

Hands-On Impressions of the New M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese Worn & Wound
MB&F; Sep 9, 2026

Hands-On Impressions of the New M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese

One of the splashiest Geneva Watch Days releases this year was the all new M.A.D.3, the latest entry in the ongoing series from M.A.D.Editions, the popular MB&F; spinoff. You’re probably pretty familiar with the M.A.D. project at this point, but just in case you’re stumbling onto it here for the first time, a brief primer.  Coming from many of the same people behind MB&F;, M.A.D.Editions was originally conceived as a way for brand founder Max Busser to thank his many longtime collaborators with an affordable watch that kept to the same avant-garde spirit of the high end luxury watches MB&F; has been making for years. That first watch was, apparently, not intended to ever be made widely available, a story that is perhaps apocryphal given the incredible success of the project across several release cycles. M.A.D.Editions is now a full fledged microbrand, with watches made available via highly competitive raffles on a regular basis. The brand has pledged to keep their watches affordable, relatively speaking, even as the overall quality of the pieces has been leveled up since the first watches appeared (they have moved to Swiss movements, and the finishing is noticeably nicer on newer watches, including the M.A.D.2 introduced last year).  The new M.A.D.3 leans deeper into an idea we saw with the M.A.D.2, which is to make these watches a genuine collaboration with a friend of the brand. That watch was designed by Eric Giroud, a longtime MB&F; collaborator and one of the more ...

Czapek returns to its Geneva roots with two very different shades of blue Time+Tide
Czapek returns Sep 9, 2026

Czapek returns to its Geneva roots with two very different shades of blue

Czapek celebrated its new flagship at Quai des Bergues 27 by releasing two limited editions during Geneva Watch Days 2026. The Quai des Bergues Midnight in Geneva pairs a 40.5mm steel case with a dark blue aventurine dial and Czapek’s seven-day, manually wound Calibre SXH1. The Place Vendôme Complicité Glacier Blue places its open-worked double-escapement … Continued