Hodinkee
Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex GMT-Master
Unpacking the world's most famous travel watch.
Results for The Dirty Dozen
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Hodinkee
Monochrome
The Evergreens – The History of the ETA Unitas 6497 and 6498, the Ubiquitous and Robust Hand-Wound Calibre
How do a pair of manually wound, time-only, pocket watch-sized, potentially outdated movements introduced in the 1950s earn a place in our series on significant calibres, alongside the well-known El Primero and Valjoux 7750 chronograph calibre and the omnipresent automatic ETA 2824 and 2892? Several factors contribute to their importance. Despite seeming unusual today, the […]
Worn & Wound
Out of Office: Bike-Fishing the Carll’s River
The good news: I’ve never looked at my Marathon Navigator more within a two hour period. The bad news: I only have two hours between preschool drop off and pick up and I’d really like to sneak some fishing in during the precious few hours of free time. The best way to get a line in the water is to load up the bike, grab some gear, and pedal up the trail that follows the Carll’s River as fast as I can and fish all the way back down. I love being a dad but as many of you know, free time comes in random spurts here and there and you have to make the best of it. I also love gear, so any opportunity to put my stuff to good use is welcome. Can I make it up there and back in time? Can I actually catch a fish? We’ll get there, but first let’s take a closer look at the rig, which I believe is pretty ideal for some fishing. My off-road bike is a Cannondale Topstone 3 from a few years back. Known as a “gravel bike”, this style of bicycle is a blend between a road endurance bike (you sit more upright than an on-road race bike) that can accommodate chunky tires for off-road use. The trail I’m riding is firm packed gravel and remains relatively flat the whole way. I’ve found the bike to be comfortable and easy to ride without breaking too much of a sweat. Recently, I swapped out the stock saddle for a leather Brooks because I’ve heard great things about how comfortable they are once broken in. Another cool thing about the Topstone is how it can accommodate gear. Th...
Worn & Wound
Just A Minute With The G-SHOCK GM2110D
The post Just A Minute With The G-SHOCK GM2110D appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Seiko expands the popular 5 Sports GMT range with three stylish new looks
The Seiko 5KX GMT collection added three stylish new variants in 2024, broadening its already robust appeal.The post Seiko expands the popular 5 Sports GMT range with three stylish new looks appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Hands-On: The New Aquastar Airstar Chronograph
I confess that I look forward to anything Rick Marei and his team create. Recent offerings from Aquastar and Synchron have all been exciting, well made, and relatively affordable. Now the new Aquastar Airstar Chronograph further ups the approachability ante. This is certainly one of the cooler recent releases. There are a lot of ’60s […] Visit Hands-On: The New Aquastar Airstar Chronograph to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Returns to Forged Carbon with the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds
Having pioneered the use of carbon-fibre reinforced polymer for watches cases with the Royal Oak Offshore Alinghi Team of 2007, Audemars Piguet (AP) is returning with a new generation of the material that debuts in the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT. Based on the original model in old-school titanium, the new split-seconds chronograph has a carbon composite case made using Chroma Forged Technology (CFT) that allows for greater colour and patterning in the material. As a result, the CFT carbon case has the typical marbled appearance of carbon composite, but flecked with blue veins that glow in the dark. Initial thoughts The Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT might seem like yet another variant of AP’s popular model, but it is equipped with one of the brand’s latest movements, the cal. 4407. The movement boasts a modern, sophisticated construction, along with one of the most innovative implementations of the split-seconds mechanism in modern watchmaking. The CFT carbon case dresses up the movement in more eye-catching attire, especially for those who found the first version in titanium too conventional. Although the new split-seconds only includes blue as an accent, the range of colours is essentially limitless since CFT carbon can be coloured in myriad hues. That means more colour variations are surely in the pipeline. Though novel for AP, coloured or luminous carbon composite is not a new concept since the material been used for watch ca...
Fratello
Introducing: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date
Today, we’ll look at the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date. This is a wild piece, and it debuts an innovative case material that took over five years of development. Get ready for some bright visual stimulation! The Audemars Piguet Concept offerings are typically filled with new technology from the […] Visit Introducing: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date to read the full article.
Time+Tide
DOXA’s Sea Emerald embraces green dials for the first time ever
Doxa’s first-ever green dial is now a standard option among its main divers.The post DOXA’s Sea Emerald embraces green dials for the first time ever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Just Because – The Uber-Comfortable And Extremely Durable Stripa Strap, Tested on the Wrist
It’s not often we venture into the world of watch accessories, so when we do, you can be assured it’s a product we stand by. A couple of months ago we were approached by a man called Péter Bálint Sinka, who started a company called Stripa Strap. With the clue being somewhat hidden in plain […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Edition
In January 2023, Zenith released the first Defy Skyline Boutique Edition. The release flew under the radar for most watch fans, but it was a stylish version of Zenith’s popular integrated-bracelet sports watch. Later that year, the brand unveiled a boutique-only version of the Defy Skyline Skeleton as well. Now it’s time for the third […] Visit Introducing: The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Edition to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing, the New World’s Thinnest Mechanical Wristwatch: Expect the Unexpected
So how thin is the ThinKing? Just 1.65 mm, beating the previous record holder, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, by just 0.05 mm.
SJX Watches
Explained: The Vertical Clutch of a Chronograph
Having already explained the more traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling), we now look forward to the more modern vertical clutch. This is found in some of the most famous chronographs in contemporary watchmaking, including the Rolex Daytona with the cal. 4131 (pictured above), Patek Philippe Nautilus with the CH 28-520, and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph with the cal. 4401. Arguably the most advanced type of chronograph coupling mechanism, the vertical clutch as it is known today was debuted in 1969 by Seiko in the 6139 chronograph. But the concept can be found in late 19th century pocket watches, and even the inexpensive Pierce Chronographe of the 1930s. Today it is practically the default choice for new chronograph constructions. Equipped with the vertical clutch, the Patek Philippe CH 28-520 in the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph ref. 5990/1A Like its horizontal counterpart, the vertical clutch serves as the mechanical link between the chronograph mechanism and the going train of a movement, allowing power to flow from the going train to the chronograph, which then allows the chronograph to run. While it fulfils the same function, a vertical clutch works differently from the horizontal equivalent, a distinction that comes with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. How it works A chronograph vertical clutch is similar to the clutch found in the manual transmission of some automobiles. The clutch of an automobile enables the intermittent connec...
Time+Tide
The new Maurice Lacroix Aikon remixes titanium grades and dial colours
Maurice Lacroix goes more sporty and more bold with brightly coloured Aikon models in titanium. Rather than just picking one grade, the cases are a mix of finishes and both grade 2 and grade 5 titanium. Both the Automatic and Chronograph are powered by Sellita-based movements, priced at US$2,950 and US$4,600, respectively. View this … ContinuedThe post The new Maurice Lacroix Aikon remixes titanium grades and dial colours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium
Longines, somehow, still feels slept on to me. In the hierarchy or Swatch Group brands, they sit in a place where they really should be insanely popular with enthusiasts and the mass market alike, but somehow they often feel like a brand struggling to break into the wider conversation. To be fair, I have no idea about the relative commercial success Longines has experienced over these last few years – it’s quite possible that everyone at Longines and Swatch are quite happy with their performance. Anecdotally, though, I just don’t see them on wrists very often, either at local neighborhood watch meetups, or in the wild. And that’s kind of a shame, because whenever I actually spend time with a Longines watch, I come away feeling impressed. I’ve long held that they do vintage reissues better than just about anyone. Whoever has the job of raiding the archives and picking watches to resurface from the brand’s long history has impeccable taste, and an innate understanding of the watches that hit the center of the Venn Diagram covering “aesthetically interesting” and “historically important.” They’ve done a great job of telling the brand’s story with a string of excellent heritage releases. But Longines is too big, of course, to just release vintage inspired watches, so in a moment a few years back when it was clear that the heritage gravy train wasn’t going to run forever, they introduced the Spirit collection. An entirely new line, the Spirit watches...
Monochrome
Introducing – The MIH Gaïa Series III, and a Special Guilloché 50th Anniversary Edition
The MIH, or Musée International d’Horlogerie (International Watchmaking Museum), is a must-see for anyone interested in the history of horology. This institution gathers a museum, a restoration workshop, and a research centre, and houses a vast collection of about 10,000 conserved objects. The year 2024 marks the 50th anniversary of the MIH’s residence in its […]
Worn & Wound
Minase and Fratello Collaborate for the Third Time with the New M-3 “Shiro”
Minase, the independent Japanese watch brand, and our friends at watch media outlet Fratello have collaborated on a third edition of the brand’s cult favorite M-3. After versions in purple and green each of the last two years, this latest release strikes a more classic and refined tone. The new M-3 “Shiro” features a white lacquered dial and some subtle but well chosen accent colors, all with an eye toward traditional Japanese craft. “Shiro” is Japanese for white, and in Japan is historically a sacred color symbolizing spiritual and physical purity. It’s a color that is frequently worn by Japanese Emperors, and comes up frequently in Shinto rituals and traditions. For this M-3, Minase has given the dial a weave-like texture that recalls the garments that might be worn in such rituals. The dial has been coated with Japanese lacquer, and the brand promises the result is a dynamic silvery color with plenty of depth. Other callouts to Japanese culture include the red tipped second hand, a color that symbolizes good luck. The precise shade of red chosen for this edition, “Hinomaru,” translates roughly to “circle of the sun.” And the blue strap, according to Minase and Fratello, is a tribute to Japanese denim. Fratello and Minase see parallels in high craft denim to traditional watchmaking, noting that good denim, when taken care of, is meant to last a lifetime, just like a mechanical watch. The original impetus for the Fratello x Minase collaborations ...
Monochrome
First Look – The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm, Now in White or on Steel Bracelet
One of Hamilton’s claims to fame is its enviable presence in Hollywood movies. Since its screen debut in the 1932 hit Shanghai Express, Hamilton’s watches have starred in over 500 movies and TV shows. In 2014, Hamilton played a crucial role in Christopher Nolan’s sci-fi masterpiece, Interstellar, by producing a watch especially for the movie. The custom-made […]
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Hamilton Khaki 'Murph' 38mm Gets A White Dial
A bracelet is introduced for the black dial, too.
Monochrome
First Look – The New TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green Calibre 11 in Titanium
Racing green… Probably one of the most emblematic colours in motorsport. We have to remember that, in the early days of car racing, colours were not just decorative, but racing drivers competed with liveries representing their country – Italian red, German silver, French blue (featured in last year’s limited edition) and, of course, British racing […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The New CWC 6BB-WR Chronograph
Cabot Watch Company (CWC) has a strong and loyal following, including among some of the writers here at Fratello. The British-based brand is known for its military-issued timepieces. Today, we take a closer look at the new CWC 6BB-WR Chronograph. For a small and relatively young brand, CWC has quite a lot of history. It […] Visit Hands-On With The New CWC 6BB-WR Chronograph to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
The Collectors Room by Gary Getz Launches with Webinar and Free 45-Day Trial
Gary Getz, Gary has just launched The Collectors Room, with the aim of providing an online resource combining in-depth educational content with a dynamic and modern user-centered discussion forum for its community members.
Monochrome
First Look – The New “Night-time Tokyo” Editions of the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time
While the Presage collection by Seiko is mostly known for its Craftsmanship Series, elegant watches that pay tribute to Japan thanks to traditionally crafted dials, there’s another sub-range that shouldn’t be overlooked: Presage Cocktail Time. Inspired by Japan’s capital city’s nightlife, with dials designed after specifically created cocktails, this represents the audacious yet accessible side […]
Hodinkee
Photo Report: The Watches, Cars, And Old World Charm Of Goodwood Revival 2024
Automotive photographer Michael Shaffer turns his lens toward the watches of a costume-heavy car show.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Xeric Artemis Chronograph
Picture this: You’re playing Thursday night trivia and the DJ asks which watch was first worn on the moon. The softball question generates bar-wide high fives as everyone celebrates their collective awareness of Buzz Aldrin’s Speedmaster that forever married watches and space travel into pop culture lore. Less than a year after we took our first small steps on the moon, the Apollo 13 mission sought a return to our celestial stomping grounds. Once again, a watch stole our collective attention, this time as part of the ill fated Apollo 13 mission. The world heard the phrase “Houston, we’ve had a problem here” and held its collective breadth as the safe return of three astronauts packed into a Lunar Module 200,000 miles from earth became dependant on their ability to precisely time a 14 second burn of the module’s thrusters – a task achieved with a NASA qualified Omega Speedmaster. John F. Kennedy famously declared that we choose to go to the moon not because it is easy, but because it is hard. While nothing about the nearly tragic Apollo 13 story makes this land-loving watch nerd want to get a closer view of the stars, others feel inspired to embody Kennedy’s words and to keep pushing farther… 586 times farther, to be exact. Kicking off this exciting new phase of space travel is NASA’s Artemis Program, which will bring a new generation of astronauts to the moon with new technology to be used on the quest for Mars. The Watch Watch collectors looking to cel...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph and its Elegant “Silver Screen” Dial
The SeaQ series, part of Glashütte Original’s Spezialist collection, made its debut in 2019, representing the German brand’s interpretation of the classic diver’s watch and drawing inspiration from the Glashütte Spezimatic Type RP TS 200, originally introduced at the end of the 1960s by the East German GUB (Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe). While the vintage Spezimatic models […]
Worn & Wound
The Difference Between Quartz, Manual, and Automatic Movements
When shopping for a new watch, the movement is often a point of consideration for many enthusiasts. But what does it do? Simply put, the movement, often referred to as a “caliber,” is the engine powering the watch and regulating the rotation of its hands. While some may feature additional features called complications, their primary duty is accurate time-telling. Today, we’ll walk through the basic differences between manual, automatic, and quartz movements. When shopping for a new watch, the movement is often a point of consideration for many enthusiasts. But what does it do? Simply put, the movement, often referred to as a “caliber,” is the engine powering the watch and regulating the rotation of its hands. While some may feature additional features called complications, their primary duty is accurate time-telling. Today, we’ll walk through the basic differences between manual, automatic, and quartz movements. The post The Difference Between Quartz, Manual, and Automatic Movements appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
The Seiko Presage Star Bar Cocktail Time SRE015 is a faceted femme fatale
With the vintage flare of a faceted crystal and small size, Seiko shows that you don't need to shrink it and pink it.The post The Seiko Presage Star Bar Cocktail Time SRE015 is a faceted femme fatale appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: The Watches We'd Like To Inherit
Doing our best to stay in the will.
Time+Tide
Hamilton updates the Murph 38 with a bracelet and white dial
One of Hamilton's most popular designs gets two small, but versatile updates with a white dial and bracelet option for the Murph 38mm.The post Hamilton updates the Murph 38 with a bracelet and white dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.