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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

First Look - The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Elbrouz Limited Edition 829 Monochrome
Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Jul 9, 2026

First Look - The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Elbrouz Limited Edition 829

Many of the overtly vintage design cues of Montblanc’s 1858 collection are inspired by Minerva’s military watches from the 1930s, renowned for their precision and legibility in extreme conditions. Promoted as rugged, reliable companions for mountaineering and outdoor adventures, the 1858 Geosphere combines its retro looks with a worldtimer featuring two rotating globes depicting the […]

Introducing - The Oris Divers Date, now with Olive Green Dial Monochrome
Oris Divers Date now Jul 7, 2026

Introducing - The Oris Divers Date, now with Olive Green Dial

The Divers Date is one of the most recognisable watches in the modern Oris collection, tracing its design inspiration back to the brand’s first dive-ready watch of 1965. For several years, this retro look was popularised by the Divers Sixty-Five, introduced in 2015 and offered in countless colours, materials and configurations. In 2024, however, Oris thoroughly […]

Hands-On With The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon Saxem WatchAdvice
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Jul 7, 2026

Hands-On With The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon Saxem

Hublot’s Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon SAXEM is one of those watches that leave you in awe, combining neon sapphire brilliance with high-complication tourbillon watchmaking. What We Love The bold Yellow Neon SAXEM case completely transforms under different lighting. The skeletonised dial offers a beautifully balanced design that gives the watch real mechanical theatre. Few watches in watchmaking will command attention quite like this, especially in natural light. What We Don’t The 44mm case size wears better than expected, but it is still on the larger side. Even sapphire lovers may find the Yellow Neon SAXEM a lot to handle. A black structured strap option would let the case and dial take centre stage even more, while simultaneously reducing the overall ‘distinctive’ presence of the watch. Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value For Money: 8.5/10 Design: 9.0/10 Wearability: 8.0/10 Build Quality: 9.0/10 Few timepieces in the world of watchmaking can grab attention like a bright yellow-coloured watch. Now imagine adding a transparent sapphire case to the mix, and suddenly, you have something that becomes almost impossible to ignore on the wrist. That is exactly what we get with the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon SAXEM. This is a watch that does not ask to be seen, but rather commands it the moment you see it. In that regard, this, in my opinion, is the kind of timepiece that perfectly encapsulates what Hublot is all about. Since the beginnin...

Introducing: The Studio Underd0g 02Series Gen 2 Hodinkee
Studio Underd0g 02Series Gen 2 What Jul 6, 2026

Introducing: The Studio Underd0g 02Series Gen 2

What We Know Today, British microbrand Studio Underd0g, known for its uniquely conceived and constructed dials, introduces the second-generation update to its 02Series time-only field watch-ish design. Though new dial colors kind of feel like the brand's major schtick, there are a few surprising changes this time around. First, and a change that's sure to appeal to everyone, is a slight reduction in the case height of the 02Series. It's not the craziest of reductions, going from 12mm to 11.5mm, but shaving off this much is still a welcome improvement, especially considering the case itself is 9.4mm without the pronounced crystal. The new case measures 37.5mm in diameter, with the new 11.5mm thickness and a 46mm lug-to-lug. Yes, the diameter has also increased by half a millimeter, but the revamped proportions should work well across a large variety of wrists. The tighter tolerances also mean that the dial is now closer to the crystal, and this was accomplished thanks to the brand's acquisition of assembly workshop Horologium, now transformed into Studio Underd0g's own in-house workshop, aptly titled The D0ghouse. The caliber inside has also received a subtle update—the Sellita SW210 has been replaced by the SW200-2 M Power+. It's a mouthful, but what that means is an extended power reserve, increased from 42 hours to 63 hours. But in keeping with the execution of the previous generation, the rotor is removed to keep this second-generation manually wound. Across the four ...

Introducing the Anoma A1 Prehistoric Worn & Wound
Anoma A1 Prehistoric Anoma has Jul 6, 2026

Introducing the Anoma A1 Prehistoric

Anoma has announced the latest version of the A1, their watch with a unique triangular shape that brand founder Matteo Violet Vianello says was inspired by a free-form table designed by Charlotte Perriand in the 1950s. There have been a variety of derivations of the original A1 design since it launched, and it’s been a surprisingly versatile canvas for a number of different ideas and points of reference. The thing I like most about the Anoma project, even more than the shape of the watch itself, which I like a lot, is that those ideas largely come from outside the watch world. This industry is filled with references to its own past, and sometimes new watches feel like fist bumps acknowledging and celebrating, well, themselves. It’s refreshing to see a brand celebrating an artistic world that extends beyond watches – it really expands the aperture on what’s possible in terms of design.  Anoma’s latest, the appropriately named Prehistoric, was inspired by a visit to the Brancusi sculpture exhibition at the Centre Pompidou in Paris. The exhibition features primitive artifacts that Brancusi saw as the earliest examples of human creativity. The objects, such as arrow heads, axes, and other tools, got Vianello thinking about what is actually essential in design, and what is excessive. He was also influenced by the physicality of these objects, and how evidence of their making, the crude handwork, was still present thousands of years after their creation.  The Prehist...

Chronoswiss Goes For The Gold With The New Opus Dakar Sundown And Pulse GMT Frosted Guilloché Gold Fratello
Chronoswiss Goes Jul 3, 2026

Chronoswiss Goes For The Gold With The New Opus Dakar Sundown And Pulse GMT Frosted Guilloché Gold

Chronoswiss is a sneaky brand! Nod off for too long, and there’s a good chance that the Swiss independent will have released something intriguing. In today’s case, there are two very different debuts in the Opus and Pulse lines. However, one trait or material exists as a common theme. Our favorite metal, gold, comes into […] Visit Chronoswiss Goes For The Gold With The New Opus Dakar Sundown And Pulse GMT Frosted Guilloché Gold to read the full article.

Show Your Colors With The Axia FIFA World Cup 2026 Watches Fratello
Jul 3, 2026

Show Your Colors With The Axia FIFA World Cup 2026 Watches

The Axia FIFA World Cup 2026 watches celebrate the biggest tournament in the world’s most popular sport. Rather than launching a single commemorative model, Axia has created a suite of officially licensed watches built around the FIFA World Cup 2026 itself and selected national teams. If your national jersey doesn’t quite show your colors enough, […] Visit Show Your Colors With The Axia FIFA World Cup 2026 Watches to read the full article.

Is The Frederique Constant Moneta Solarmetre The Perfect Outlier Dress Watch For Your Collection? Fratello
Frederique Constant Moneta Solarmetre Jul 1, 2026

Is The Frederique Constant Moneta Solarmetre The Perfect Outlier Dress Watch For Your Collection?

Frederique Constant’s Moneta line has been received with great applause from the watch community. The formal design with its distinguishing internal reeded ring rubbed many enthusiasts, including me, the right way. Today, I get a chance to go hands-on with the latest edition, the solar-powered Frederique Constant Moneta Solarmetre. It makes me wonder: is this […] Visit Is The Frederique Constant Moneta Solarmetre The Perfect Outlier Dress Watch For Your Collection? to read the full article.

The New Nodus Obscura II - Helping You Take Great Pictures With An Exposure Gauge Complication Fratello
Nodus Obscura II — Helping Jun 30, 2026

The New Nodus Obscura II - Helping You Take Great Pictures With An Exposure Gauge Complication

Nodus is one of the most interesting young watch companies today. Along with offering a regular collection of excellent, affordable tool watches, the Los Angeles-based brand has created the Nodus Design Lab for its more experimental collaborative efforts. A great example is the brilliant Trailtrekker that I reviewed in 2024. Another standout collaboration was last […] Visit The New Nodus Obscura II — Helping You Take Great Pictures With An Exposure Gauge Complication to read the full article.

Panerai Launches The Rugged Yet Reined-In Submersible Navy SEALs PAM01738 Fratello
Panerai Launches Jun 28, 2026

Panerai Launches The Rugged Yet Reined-In Submersible Navy SEALs PAM01738

Panerai continues its official partnership with the U.S. Navy SEALs with a new Submersible. The watch’s 44mm stainless steel case has the brand’s characteristic cushion shape and a matte black ceramic unidirectional bezel. Following the ultra-limited Afniotech Experience model, this release extracts key design cues in a more grounded steel package. Crucially, PAM01738 skips the […] Visit Panerai Launches The Rugged Yet Reined-In Submersible Navy SEALs PAM01738 to read the full article.

Did Jaeger-LeCoultre Perfect The Integrated Bracelet Watch? (Hands On) WatchAdvice
Vacheron Constantin Jun 23, 2026

Did Jaeger-LeCoultre Perfect The Integrated Bracelet Watch? (Hands On)

Jaeger-LeCoultre have finally entered the integrated bracelet watch space, but has the long wait been worth it? Let’s find out! What We Love: That bracelet – perfection! Elegantly reinterpreted design language Surprisingly value-driven for Jaeger-LeCoultre What We Don’t: Lacking embellishments on the dial & bezel No lume – an interesting choice… Is Jaeger-LeCoultre late to the party? Overall Rating: 9.25/10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 10/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 The integrated bracelet sports watch is emblematic of the current watch landscape. Bridging the gap between utility and jewellery, it has become the go-to design language for brands at every price point. From entry-level and middle-market players like Tissot and Raymond Weil, all the way to the upper echelons of Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin, the integrated bracelet design has emerged as the industry’s defining modern silhouette. Conversely, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s identity is rooted in tradition and historical inspiration. Flagship models like the Reverso and Master Control draw upon the brand’s early Art Deco influences, using them as the foundation for their designs. Cementing its reputation as the ‘watchmaker’s watchmaker’, this steadfast commitment to horological heritage has earned the brand a devoted following among enthusiasts worldwide. But reliance on heritage is a double-edged sword. Many collectors have long argued that Jaeger-LeCoultre’s greatest c...

Get “Tunnel Vision” With The New Amida Digitrend OSII Black Fratello
Jun 23, 2026

Get “Tunnel Vision” With The New Amida Digitrend OSII Black

The Amida Digitrend is one of those out-of-the-box watches that always gets me. The combination of its unconventional shape, prism display, and jump-hour complication makes it unlike any other watch. That was already true of the 1976 original Amida Digitrend. Designer Matthieu Allègre and Depancel founder Clément Meynier relaunched the Digitrend in 2024 and tried […] Visit Get “Tunnel Vision” With The New Amida Digitrend OSII Black to read the full article.

Introducing - The MeisterSinger Panthero Jumping Hour Gets new Sunburst Dials Monochrome
Meistersinger Panthero Jumping Hour Gets Jun 22, 2026

Introducing - The MeisterSinger Panthero Jumping Hour Gets new Sunburst Dials

The MeisterSinger Panthero Jumping Hour, introduced at the start of the year, combines a jumping-hour display with a new design language for the brand, best known for its single-hand watches. Rather than displaying the hours with a central hand, the time is indicated through a jumping-hour aperture at 12 o’clock, while a centrally mounted hand […]

Introducing - The Hulsman Tourbillon Solstitium, A Hand-Made Watch with Jumping Hours now Produced in a Limited Run Monochrome
Jun 22, 2026

Introducing - The Hulsman Tourbillon Solstitium, A Hand-Made Watch with Jumping Hours now Produced in a Limited Run

Make a list of independent watchmakers working outside Switzerland, highlight the most fascinating ones, and Dutch creator Machiel Hulsman will be among them. After leaving a career in IT, Hulsman dedicated himself to watchmaking, gradually acquiring the expertise required to design and manufacture complete movements from scratch, and to produce watches that are all one-of-a-kind […]

Introducing: The Vulcain Cricket Titanium Hodinkee
Nivada Grenchen Jun 18, 2026

Introducing: The Vulcain Cricket Titanium

What We Know Since Vulcain's revival in 2022 under the helm of Guillaume Laidet, a name familiar to most here thanks to his hand in brands like Nivada Grenchen and SpaceOne, it's steadily cranked out watches under a few collections, from skin divers to chronographs, and most importantly, its iconic design that is the Cricket alarm watch. While these modern Crickets have largely remained faithful in spirit to their predecessors, today marks a new limited edition from Vulcain with a contemporary twist: the Vulcain Cricket Titanium. The name kind of gives everything away here, with titanium being the main focus of this new run of 100 pieces. The 39mm case, in its slightly upsized modern form, is made this time in grade 5 titanium, polished throughout. The dial is also in titanium, with a stamped guilloché effect paired with white printing for a minutes track and applied indices. The handset comes in a variety of colors, with the skeletonized dauphine minute and hour hands paired with a black seconds hand, and a metallic nickel-plated alarm hand with a blackened arrow tip that points to the printed track to better set your alarm time. But that's not where the titaniumification (I'm going to pretend that's a real word) ends. Here, the Le Locle-assembled and manually-wound Vulcain Cricket Calibre V14 is also produced from titanium movement blanks, meaning that the titanium theme translates all the way to the inside of the watch and can be seen through the exhibition caseback. S...

ochs und junior Introduces the “anno sandblasted” Annual Calendar Worn & Wound
Jun 18, 2026

ochs und junior Introduces the “anno sandblasted” Annual Calendar

Despite my besten Bemühungen, when it comes to learning the German language, I’ve never found it to be very einfach, dear reader. But I haven’t let that cloud my judgment with German and Swiss brands. Especially those with Teutonic-sounding names like ochs und junior. Now hitting the two-decade mark since it was founded in 2006, the Swiss brand’s latest release shows it has no interest in stepping outside of its distinct design language of highly stylized, stripped-down watches with a clear “Weniger ist mehr” philosophy. We see this throughline in the new anno sandblasted. Available in 39mm and 42mm case sizes, this release upgrades the brand’s existing annual calendar with a sandblasted dial. But as you can see, the calendar display is undeniably the most eye-catching part of this watch, creating something that is just as much about the form of the watch itself as it is about the function. Even so, at first glance, it may be a bit hard to understand (not unlike the genitive case, but I’m not bitter…).  To do this, the Ludwig Oechslin designed annual calendar replaces conventional windows and text displays with a series of holes read directly (and I’m told “intuitively”) from the dial. The 31 holes around the perimeter show the date, with the ten-minute markers acting as five-day reference points. For example, the 30-minute marker also marks the 15th day of the month. A smaller group of seven holes shows the weekday, while 12 holes show the month, b...

Introducing - The Boutique-Exclusive Maen Manhattan 37 Ultra Thin Blue Fumé Edition Monochrome
Maen Manhattan 37 Ultra Thin Jun 18, 2026

Introducing - The Boutique-Exclusive Maen Manhattan 37 Ultra Thin Blue Fumé Edition

The Manhattan series is an important collection for Maen, being an integrated-bracelet sports-watch design series with an increasingly refined execution at an accessible price. Last year, the Swedish brand with Dutch roots introduced the Manhattan 37 Ultra Thin, a slimmer and more elegant interpretation of its popular collection, powered by a hand-wound movement. Now, Maen […]

The Business of Watches Podcast: Q & A Episode - Your Business Questions Answered By The Hodinkee Team Hodinkee
F.P. Journe Souscription Chronomètre à Résonance Jun 17, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Q & A Episode - Your Business Questions Answered By The Hodinkee Team

This week on The Business of Watches, we take your questions on the business of timekeeping. We're joined by a swath of the Hodinkee team, including Editor-in-Chief James Stacey, Senior Editor Mark Kauzlarich, and Hodinkee Editor TanTan Wang.  We're answering your questions and marking 30 episodes of BoW. You submitted some excellent questions, including how changes in 3D printing technology will impact watch movement manufacturing, whether watch brands consider enthusiasts' preferences in their design and release schedules, and what the future of multi-brand watch boutiques looks like.  There's plenty of watch business and strategy to discuss, and we hope you enjoy the conversations. Be sure to leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an episode? This new show is being published to the original Hodinkee Podcasts feed, so you can subscribe wherever you find your podcasts, including Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or TuneIn. Show Notes1:18 F.P. Journe Souscription Chronomètre à Résonance Achieves $13.9 Million – Becomes Fifth Most Expensive Wristwatch Ever Sold (Hodinkee)2:35 Kari Voutilainen 2:47 Marteau: The Heat Wave4:08 The Barrelhand Monolith Has Landed (Hodinkee) 11:45 Ming Polymesh (Hodinkee) 12:40 Seiko Watch Corporation President Akio Naito (The Business of Watches) 13:10 Peanuts Watches by Citizen (collectpeanuts.com) 15:03 Timex 15:50 We Criticize The Wrong Thing When We Attack ...