Hodinkee
Introducing: CWC Navy Eighty CD-1
What We Know Cabot Watch Company (better known as CWC) has launched a new take on its classic military-spec dive watch, this time inspired by some of the earliest watches CWC supplied to the British Ministry of Defense. The result is the CWC Navy Eighty CD-1 Diver, which blends one of the most sought-after and rare early CWC unit watches with a host of modern updates to make for a compelling — and spec-heavy — take on a classic formula. At a high level, this latest release from CWC is not a radical departure from previous CWC offerings. You still get the familiar (and wonderful) 41mm fixed-bar Royal Navy Diver case, with its shrouded crown, chunky rounded lugs, and broad, grippy bezel. You also still get the familiar dial layout originally prescribed by the MOD for watches in the 1950s, plus a handful of vintage-inspired details that help the watch stand apart from the standard Royal Navy Diver available today. These include a handset as close as I’ve seen to the original 1980 CWC-issued divers, including the diamond-tipped luminous seconds hand (a feature largely replaced over the years by a Speedmaster-style teardrop second’s hand) and an old-school, non-serif, non-oval CWC logo. There are big changes here, but they largely come down to finishing and material choices. Possibly the most dramatic update is the move to applied markers with metal surrounds, but the switch to a ceramic bezel is also impactful. To my knowledge, this is the first time CWC has used a cer...