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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.
The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic “Blue” for the Visa Cash App RB F1 Team is Here Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic “Blue” Jul 3, 2024

The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic “Blue” for the Visa Cash App RB F1 Team is Here

One of the continuing small surprises of the watch landscape over the last few years is Tudor’s building of new relationships with professional athletes and sports teams. David Beckham, of course, has been an ambassador for years, but in a relatively short period of time Tudor has established relationships in pro sailing (Alinghi Red Bull), rugby (the All Blacks), cycling (the Tudor team was actually founded back in 2018), and F1 racing. Over time, these partnerships have produced watches, and today we get the latest example, a Black Bay Ceramic with a blue dial made for the Visa Cash App RB Formula One team. The Black Bay Ceramic is one of the most under the radar Black Bays in the collection. It’s the only modern Tudor sports watch in ceramic, and up until today was available only with a black dial that complements its black ceramic case. It’s perhaps most notable though as the answer to a trivia question: what is the first Tudor to have a movement with METAS certification? When this watch was released and it was the only one in the collection with this designation, it was a truly odd thing. Tudor has since filled out their METAS line a bit, so it’s no surprise that the new Black Bay Ceramic Blue is also METAS certified.  To match the Visa Cash App team’s livery, the watch has been produced with a bright blue dial. Eagle eyed F1 fans have already spotted the watch on the wrists of team members, so it’s not a complete surprise to see it here. It obviously giv...

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First Look – The Zenith Defy Skyline White Ceramic Skeleton Monochrome
Zenith Defy Skyline White Ceramic Jul 3, 2024

First Look – The Zenith Defy Skyline White Ceramic Skeleton

Released in 2022, the Defy Skyline collection was Zenith‘s answer to the large demand for sports watches with integrated design and bracelet. Since its initial introduction, we have seen multiple new editions of this watch, including compact versions, ceramic models, a chronograph and even a high-frequency tourbillon. But one of the most impactful models was […]

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The Delugs Rubber CTS Straps On Ming And Tudor Watches Fratello
Tudor Watches If you frequent Jul 3, 2024

The Delugs Rubber CTS Straps On Ming And Tudor Watches

If you frequent social media, there’s a good chance that you’ve run across the Delugs rubber CTS straps recently. The brand is making a splash for the summer season and has released some new models and colors. Full disclosure: Delugs sent me a handful of straps for review. Specifically, I requested straps for my Ming […] Visit The Delugs Rubber CTS Straps On Ming And Tudor Watches to read the full article.

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News – The F1-Themed Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Blue, Now Available to the Public Monochrome
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Blue Jul 3, 2024

News – The F1-Themed Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Blue, Now Available to the Public

A few months ago, just ahead of the 2024 Formula 1 season, Tudor announced a rather unexpected partnership, signing its return in motorsport. The brand indeed announced its official partnership with Red Bull’s second team, Visa Cash App RB Formula One team, with drivers Daniel Ricciardo and Yuki Tsunoda behind the wheel. Only a couple […]

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Introducing: The Laco Augsburg And Aachen Limited Editions In Green Fratello
Laco Augsburg Jul 3, 2024

Introducing: The Laco Augsburg And Aachen Limited Editions In Green

Many pilot’s watches, especially those of the Flieger variety, are designed with a specific purpose in mind: their wearers must be able to read the time in a split second. That’s why the dials feature large numerals, hands, and markers. This results in an iconic look that has many fans worldwide. On the other hand, […] Visit Introducing: The Laco Augsburg And Aachen Limited Editions In Green to read the full article.

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A Closer Look At The New Louis Vuitton Escale Automatic [Video] Fratello
Louis Vuitton Escale Automatic [Video] We Jul 3, 2024

A Closer Look At The New Louis Vuitton Escale Automatic [Video]

We recently introduced the new Louis Vuitton Escale Automatic collection here. It’s a collection of time-only Escale watches that use Louis Vuitton’s LFT023 movement. In this video, RJ discusses the Louis Vuitton Escale rose gold models in detail. Louis Vuitton Escale Automatic This year marks the 10th anniversary of the Escale collection. Louis Vuitton showed […] Visit A Closer Look At The New Louis Vuitton Escale Automatic [Video] to read the full article.

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Up Close With The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5396G-017 Fratello
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5396G-017 Yes Jul 3, 2024

Up Close With The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5396G-017

Yes, you’re looking at a new watch. The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5396G-017 is a watch with a very familiar face. But that face underwent some serious yet subtle “cosmetic surgery.” The reference 5396 has been around since 2006 and has become one of the most recognizable Patek watches around. The vertical design, which shows […] Visit Up Close With The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5396G-017 to read the full article.

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Ressence Gets into the Full Lume Dial Game with the Type 5 L Worn & Wound
Ressence Gets into Jul 2, 2024

Ressence Gets into the Full Lume Dial Game with the Type 5 L

If you’ve spent any time on the watch internet over the last few weeks, it should be no surprise that it’s dive watch season. Hardly a day goes by right now that some new dive watch doesn’t pop up on our radar, or come across our Instagram feeds. Now - with the release of the Type 5 L - Ressence has joined in, harnessing the sheer awesomeness of copious lume to make what may be the coolest version of their Type 5 diver yet. When the Ressence Type 5 was first released in 2015, it was unlike anything else on the market. With its bulbous architecture, oil-filled case, and signature Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) displaying the time, the Type 5 was about as fun as a watch could get. The Type 5 L pushes it even further and is a nice reminder that dive watch design doesn’t have to be static - there are still plenty of pages in the dive watch playbook to explore. On a technical level, the Type 5 L is exactly the watch we’ve seen over the last near-decade, but the technical side of things only tells part of the story. What sets the Type 5 L apart is its fully luminous dial. Without the glow, the Type 5 L looks awfully similar to the gray Type 5G from 2017. It shares the same 46mm wide, 15.5mm thick grade 5 titanium case; the same ETA 2824/2 calibre modified with a ROCS 5 module and magnetic transmission showing hours, minutes, and running seconds (plus oil temperature for good measure); and the same 100 meter water resistance. But it’s a whole other story ...

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ochs und junior Introduces the Luna Sole, their Lightest and Thinnest Watch Yet Worn & Wound
Jul 2, 2024

ochs und junior Introduces the Luna Sole, their Lightest and Thinnest Watch Yet

ochs und junior has released the latest in their line of celestial-inspired watches, this time with a movement and complication ten years in the making. To look at it, the luna sole couldn’t be anything besides an ochs und junior and uses a series of rotating discs to convey the relative position of the moon, sun, and earth. When I was first getting into watches in the early 2010s, the watch industry - in particular the Swiss watch industry - was experiencing a very real bout of homogeneity. Coming out of the recession, and with the real boom times still ahead of them, it felt like brands were (mostly) looking to play it safe and ride out the stormy weather. ochs und junior was one of the first brands I came across that was, in a big way, playing their own game. While the luna sole is a pure expression of that approach, it’s also the thinnest and lightest ochs und junior we’ve seen yet, and demonstrates a clear evolution from the early days of the brand without sacrificing any of the brutalist industrial design the brand is known for. The luna sole measures in at 40mm across and 9mm thick, with a lug-to-lug barely longer than the diameter of the watch. More to the point, the grade 5 titanium case is light - the watch head without the strap is only 40 grams, about the equivalent of a handful of quarters. Inside the luna sole, you’ll find a modified version of the ETA 2892, initially conceptualized and designed by ochs und junior founder Ludwig Oechslin a decad...

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Five Years With The Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 In Moonshine Gold 310.60.42.50.99.001 Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 Jul 2, 2024

Five Years With The Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 In Moonshine Gold 310.60.42.50.99.001

In March 2019, Omega introduced the Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 50th Anniversary edition in Moonshine Gold. This watch is a modern reproduction of the 1969 gold Moonwatch presented to US President Nixon, Vice President Agnew, and all active NASA astronauts at the time. That watch also became available to the general market, with a slightly […] Visit Five Years With The Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 In Moonshine Gold 310.60.42.50.99.001 to read the full article.

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Introducing – The New Chronoswiss Delphis Dracula, Horizon and Dune Monochrome
Chronoswiss Jul 2, 2024

Introducing – The New Chronoswiss Delphis Dracula, Horizon and Dune

Chronoswiss was founded in 1983 in Munich by the late Gerd R. Lang, a celebrated watchmaker with a penchant for classical regulators. Now in the hands of Oliver Ebstein and based in Lucerne, Switzerland, Chronoswiss maintains its repertoire of dynamic regulator layouts with old-school decorative techniques jazzed up with wild colours. The Chronoswiss Delphis, launched […]

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Hands-On With The Mondia Top Second Reissue - The Cult-Classic Flashing Dot Makes A Comeback Fratello
Jul 2, 2024

Hands-On With The Mondia Top Second Reissue - The Cult-Classic Flashing Dot Makes A Comeback

It has been quite some time since I wrote a hands-on review of a modern watch. When the news announcing the revival of my beloved Mondia Top Second hit our press mailbox last September, I instantly volunteered to look at it. A deep green sample of the new Mondia Top Second eventually landed safely on […] Visit Hands-On With The Mondia Top Second Reissue - The Cult-Classic Flashing Dot Makes A Comeback to read the full article.

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Back To Basics: The Finishing Styles Unique To High-End Watches Explained Fratello
Jul 2, 2024

Back To Basics: The Finishing Styles Unique To High-End Watches Explained

We are back with another installment of Back to Basics, a series of articles aimed at newcomers to the watch hobby. This time, we will examine high-end finishing techniques. If you are new to the watch world, you may wonder what causes the massive differences in price between watches. One of many aspects at play […] Visit Back To Basics: The Finishing Styles Unique To High-End Watches Explained to read the full article.

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Opinion: Maybe One Group Controlling All the Major Luxury Brands Would Be Bad? Worn & Wound
Jul 1, 2024

Opinion: Maybe One Group Controlling All the Major Luxury Brands Would Be Bad?

It’s been a slow few months in the watch industry. Not at all uncommon in the summer, and we haven’t even hit the real sleepy months yet, when most of Europe goes on holiday and American watch media is confronted with the reality that we’re working a beat that doesn’t really exist for a short period of time. But there was real news last week: Bloomberg reported that LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault owns a (small) personal stake in the Richemont Group, his closest rival in the luxury goods space. Once the news broke, many began to speculate. Hey, it’s a slow summer – speculating is what keeps us awake. Could this be a sign that LVMH is positioning itself to buy the Richemont Group? Could that even happen? What’s the actual point of antitrust laws anyway?  Bernard Arnault There’s no actual indication, of course, that Arnault wants to purchase Richemont. The holdings, according to Bloomberg, are part of a larger portfolio of Arnault family investments that include many publicly traded companies. No comment as of yet from Richemont or LVMH, although as many outlets are reporting, LVMH has a history of buying an interest in their rivals.  We live in a world where insane wealth becomes more insane every year, so it’s not a huge mental leap to think that Bernard Arnault, who on any given day might be the world’s wealthiest man, could have eyes on getting even richer. Taking an ownership stake in Richemont would almost certainly do that. It likely already has – Ric...

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Hands-on – The Bold and Ultra-Modern Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon Monochrome
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon Mr Jul 1, 2024

Hands-on – The Bold and Ultra-Modern Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon

Mr Roger Dubuis founded his eponymous brand in 1995, swiftly achieving success with timepieces that deftly balance traditional watchmaking craftsmanship and bold, expressive designs. Since 2003, the brand has been renowned for its expertise in tourbillon watches, starting with the calibre RD03. This fully integrated manufacture has since become a specialist in architectural skeletonised tourbillons, […]

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Hublot Releases the Classic Fusion in an “Essential Grey” Edition Worn & Wound
Hublot Releases Jul 1, 2024

Hublot Releases the Classic Fusion in an “Essential Grey” Edition

You know the old philosophical question about the tree falling in the forest without anyone there to hear it? The new release from Hublot, a pair of Classic Fusions that make up the third installment of their “Essential Grey” collection, has me thinking of a similar question that could be aimed at the watch community: if a Hublot is reserved and muted, is it still a Hublot? Obviously, of course it is. But my personal interest in the brand is so geared toward their more experimental side, a release like this really flies under the radar. As a point of fact, however, the Essential Grey releases are a very big deal in the Hublot collector community, and this one ought to prove every bit as popular as the prior two.  For the uninitiated, the Essential Grey watches in Hublot’s catalog are an annual release of a watch in a simple grey colorway, always sold through a single channel and always focusing on a single model. It only happens once a year, so it’s a drop that Hublot fans eagerly anticipate. Previous Essential Grey releases included versions of Big Bang Unico and Spirit of Big Bang. This year, Hublot steps away from the bombast of those watches, opting for a watch that is meant to remind collectors of the brand’s origins.  The Classic Fusion is Hublot’s most straightforward watch, and the watch most closely in tune with the brand’s past. It’s a model that’s often used to explicitly connect the Hublot of the 1980s to the Hublot of today, as it did with ...

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Vero Updates the Open Water with a Smaller Case and New Colors Worn & Wound
Timex es were Jul 1, 2024

Vero Updates the Open Water with a Smaller Case and New Colors

What was your first watch? Not your first mechanical watch, not your first nice watch, but actually your first watch. If you’re around my age, I’d hazard a guess that it was probably something fun. Neon Shark watches, bright G-Shocks, and outdoorsy Timexes were the thing on my playground growing up, and it’s a recipe that still works just as well approaching (or beyond) 30 as it did approaching 10. All this is to say that colorful and waterproof is a recipe for success, and one brand that really gets this is Vero. I don’t exactly remember the first time I crossed paths with a Vero, but I do remember the minty green dial standing out against the stark black bezel, and that I found myself pretty taken with their line of colorful dive watches from the get. It’s an interest I haven’t really shaken, and one only compounded by the latest iteration of their signature dive watch, the Open Water, now in a  38mm case. The big headline here is a series of subtle refinements to the Open Water model, all of which add up to a stark evolution of Vero’s flagship diver. To look at the new Open Water 38 in isolation, one might be hard-pressed to call out many of these changes but put the old and new models next to each other, and the difference will be clear.  The most visually dramatic of these changes is the shift from a black DLC finish on the bezel to a boldly colored Cerakote treatment. A stark black bezel has been a key visual hallmark of the Vero Open Water, so moving...

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Hublot Gives Its Classic Fusion The Stylish “Essential Grey” Makeover Fratello
Hublot Gives Jul 1, 2024

Hublot Gives Its Classic Fusion The Stylish “Essential Grey” Makeover

When the new Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Grey models hit our screens, they immediately stood out. We always love seeing what the brand comes up with for its Classic Fusion. After all, the watch tells Carlo Crocco’s original Hublot story. But there is more to it than that. The Classic Fusion also still looks just […] Visit Hublot Gives Its Classic Fusion The Stylish “Essential Grey” Makeover to read the full article.

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