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Seiko Introduces the Credor Locomotive GCCR997 SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Feb 5, 2025

Seiko Introduces the Credor Locomotive GCCR997

Have revived the Credor Locomotive last year with the limited edition GCCR999, Seiko has now added the Gerald Genta-designed sports watch to its regular production lineup. The Credor Locomotive GCCR997 is identical to its limited edition counterpart, save for the dial, which is now dark green with an intricate hexagon pattern. Initial thoughts Having already gotten wind of the Locomotive becoming regular production, the new GCCR997 isn’t a surprise. It is also inevitable given the good response enjoyed by the limited edition, which was well priced, especially for the case and bracelet quality. The honeycomb dial with its novel pattern is a nice touch. Seiko has wisely kept the retail price essentially unchanged over the limited edition – this is about US$500 more expensive – which means the is still good value, and also more accessible. And I’m sure this won’t be the only Locomotive in the catalogue, so expect to see more variants in the future. Hexagon themed The new Locomotive has the same titanium case and bracelet found on last year’s model. The GCCR997 retains the dimensions of the vintage original that was launched in 1978, but with an improved construction and finish. Made of Seiko’s “high-intensity” titanium, the case and bracelet are finished with a combination of brushed and polished surfaces that gleam a little more than usual because the proprietary alloy has greater hardness than the conventional titanium alloys used in watches. The original,...

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Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive With A New Dial Fratello
Gerald Genta Feb 5, 2025

Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive With A New Dial

One of last year’s biggest surprises was the reintroduction of the Credor Locomotive. The original watch from the 1970s was one of Gérald Genta’s lesser-known creations. As soon as you see it, though, you immediately recognize Genta’s characteristic design signature. Having said that, it’s a divisive design because of its quirky presence. I also had […] Visit Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive With A New Dial to read the full article.

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Patek Philippe Silently Discontinues The Nautilus 5712/1A - What Does This Imply? Fratello
Patek Philippe Silently Discontinues Feb 5, 2025

Patek Philippe Silently Discontinues The Nautilus 5712/1A - What Does This Imply?

Watch models and variations come and go. Most go under the radar, slipping into oblivion without anyone paying them much mind. Others walk off stage to great fanfare. The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712/1A sits somewhere in the middle. Patek Philippe did not officially announce it or share anything regarding the discontinuation. Still, we feel it […] Visit Patek Philippe Silently Discontinues The Nautilus 5712/1A - What Does This Imply? to read the full article.

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Introducing – The New Green Credor Locomotive GCCR997 to Join the Permanent Collection Monochrome
Seiko Corporation – unveiled Feb 5, 2025

Introducing – The New Green Credor Locomotive GCCR997 to Join the Permanent Collection

Last year, to celebrate its 50th anniversary, Credor – the high-end, most classical brand owned by the Seiko Corporation – unveiled a very special watch based on the Locomotive concept and being a faithful recreation of Gérald Genta‘s original 1978 sketch. While Genta is best known for designing the iconic Royal Oak, Nautilus, and Ingenieur, […]

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Owner’s Review: the Sinn EZM 7 Worn & Wound
Sinn EZM 7 Here’s Feb 4, 2025

Owner’s Review: the Sinn EZM 7

Here’s the scenario: you’re on the third floor of a burning building, kitted out in all your firefighter gear, battling the blaze and smoke as you search for survivors. As you fight your way from room to room, the wood floors are buckling beneath your boots, and desperate sirens are blaring outside. In the intense heat, you have no way of knowing how long your equipment will last. Unless that is, you’ve added a Sinn EZM “Mission Timer” 7 to your loadout.  Okay, I digress-I have never been in a burning building (knock on wood) and I hope I’ll never have to monitor the degradation of my “gear”, whatever that may mean. But I do have an EZM 7, and it has, surprisingly, come in handy in much more mundane situations than it was meant to be used in.  To start at the beginning of my journey with the EZM (acronym derived from the German Einsatzeitmesser, or “operation time meter”), you may need a brief overview of the person writing this. Most of my friends and family would admit to having asked me to fix something on their car or in their home at some point, and to say that I’m into tool-style watches would be a devastating understatement. The more information that can be gleaned from (or tortured out of) a watch, the more likely I am to wear it. The EZM 7, then, is an easy win for me, and clearly my dad thought the same when he gifted me a used model upon the completion of my Master’s degree in Creative Writing in May 2024.  Since then, the EZM 7 has ...

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Introducing – Seiko Adds a new Enamel SPB495 to the Presage Craftsmanship Series Monochrome
Seiko Adds Feb 4, 2025

Introducing – Seiko Adds a new Enamel SPB495 to the Presage Craftsmanship Series

Prospex, King Seiko, 5 Sports and, of course, Presage… There are so many different sub-collections within Seiko’s portfolio but it’s rather easy to understand what the Presage collection stands for; elegance and classicism. This statement is even more meaningful when it comes to the Presage Craftsmanship Series, a collection of watches seen as the best […]

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MKII Updates the Classic Fulcrum with a Smaller Case and Thoughtful Details Worn & Wound
Feb 4, 2025

MKII Updates the Classic Fulcrum with a Smaller Case and Thoughtful Details

Imagination is at the heart of any good spy story or thriller, and MKII seems to know that well; with their latest release, the Fulcrum 39, they’ve crafted a watch fit for a speculative undercover mission in the 1970s. A diver-style piece that favors practicality and class over more visually militarized counterparts, the Fulcrum 39 is designed to convey MKII’s “vision of the perfect tool watch”. The Fulcrum 39 is a revised and sized-down successor to MKII’s Fulcrum, originally released in 2013. Aptly named for its discreet 39.50mm case size, the Fulcrum 39 is a watch that could have been made for military and covert ops; MKII has crafted a sort of horological fiction with the watch’s design and heritage. While mainly inspired by timepieces issued to the United States Military in the Vietnam War era, the Fulcrum 39 also tags in elements of more civilian-oriented designs, hence the smaller case size and understated appearance. The idea of a watch with a grounded yet fictional background is unique and lends an air of hushed intrigue to the Fulcrum 39 that helps elevate it from just another dive watch to a very functional gear piece for a theoretical (or real) adventure.  With all these stylistic features in mind, the Fulcrum 39 is unmistakably a tool watch. It totes a 120-click unidirectional bezel, available in either 12-hour or 60-minute diver configurations, maximizing its utility as a dive watch-particularly when paired with its 200m water resistance. The b...

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The Gray Market For Watches: Understanding The Parallel World Of Watch Trading Fratello
Feb 4, 2025

The Gray Market For Watches: Understanding The Parallel World Of Watch Trading

In the watch industry, people often toss around the term “gray market,” but they don’t always fully understand it. The gray market for watches refers to a network of unofficial sales channels through which sellers trade watches outside of the authorized distribution system. While this market is legal, it operates without the endorsement of the […] Visit The Gray Market For Watches: Understanding The Parallel World Of Watch Trading to read the full article.

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Introducing – The Orient Bambino Flaunts New Dial Colours and Limited Editions for its 75th Anniversary Monochrome
Citizen as incontestable powerhouses However Feb 4, 2025

Introducing – The Orient Bambino Flaunts New Dial Colours and Limited Editions for its 75th Anniversary

If you ask about affordable Japanese mechanical watches, most people will cite Seiko and Citizen as incontestable powerhouses. However, Orient, another Japanese watch brand owned by the Seiko Epson Corporation, is a force to contend with when it comes to value for money. Founded in 1950, Orient is celebrating its 75th anniversary this year with […]

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Putting The Spotlight On The Best Modern Alpina Watches Fratello
Alpina Watches Alpina has been Feb 4, 2025

Putting The Spotlight On The Best Modern Alpina Watches

Alpina has been on a roll lately. The Swiss watchmaker has been busy updating its collection with some great new models. While most of you will probably know the brand’s sports pieces, we have also seen some great watches inspired by its past, which goes back more than a century. Indeed, Alpina is a brand […] Visit Putting The Spotlight On The Best Modern Alpina Watches to read the full article.

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First Look – The new Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase Monochrome
Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase Feb 4, 2025

First Look – The new Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase

Piaget’s luxury sports watch, the Polo, is inspired by the brand’s iconic solid gold 1979 Polo quartz model with horizontal gadroons running across the dial and the integrated bracelet. Revamped from head to toe in 2016 in steel with mechanical movements, the Polo family is represented by complications small and large, from time and date […]

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Introducing: The Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase Fratello
Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase Feb 4, 2025

Introducing: The Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase

We’re just barely a month into 2025, and Piaget is already rolling out the big guns. The new Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase is a modern, sporty piece with movement typically reserved for a dress watch. Because of its exotic nature, this release won’t be for everyone, but it’s always fun to have a look! The […] Visit Introducing: The Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase to read the full article.

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H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Feb 4, 2025

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy

A refined addition to H. Moser & Cie.’s line of sporty dress watches, the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is distinguished by a more compact 40 mm case. The look is classic Moser with the signature fumé dial adorned with an imperceptible logo in transparent print. More prominent is the flying tourbillon at six o’clock with the trademark Moser carriage of a wide “V” containing double hairsprings for superior chronometry. Initial thoughts The Streamliner remains the most recognisable model in Moser’s lineup, even as the popularity of integrated bracelet sports watches wanes. Meanwhile, the Pioneer is often overlooked by collectors, making it somewhat underrated despite its appeal. Personally, I like the Pioneer for its sporty design, even though it isn’t a traditional sports watch and instead a cross between a sports and dress watch. Departing from its predecessor’s substantial 42.8 mm case, the new model is more wearable. It leans more towards the dress watch side of the spectrum with its smaller case, but still has a 120 m water resistance (and is delivered with a green rubber strap). Priced at CHF59,900, the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is a value proposition in terms of tourbillons from an independent watchmaker. A steel version would be sportier and more affordable, and while that’s not on the cards yet, it is probably on the way given Moser’s track record. Burgundy gradient A standout feature is the fumé dial that’s made up of black and burgundy treat...

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A New Mt. Iwate Dial Arrives in the Grand Seiko SLGH027 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SLGH027 We reached Feb 3, 2025

A New Mt. Iwate Dial Arrives in the Grand Seiko SLGH027

We reached the point long ago where even the most dedicated Grand Seiko fans and collectors could be expected to keep up with the many, many different dial textures. Intricate textured dials are, at least as much as their famous Zaratsu polishing technique and fantastic family of movements, the thing that Grand Seiko has become most well known for during these last several years that have seen the brand grow at an extraordinary pace. I know for me personally, it’s all a little overwhelming, and while I love seeing all of the new textures and colors pop in watches as the collection grows, I remain biased toward one in particular that caught my eye at the beginning of my own interest in the brand. The first Grand Seiko I ever owned had a black “Mt. Iwate” textured dial, and for me it’s still the standard by which I judge all of the others against. That Mt. Iwate texture, to me, is just the right balance of eye catching and incredibly subtle – it can’t be detected at every angle, which is one of my favorite things about it. It’s also historically taken something of a backseat to the “Snowflake” and “Birch” textures, so it appeals to my natural tendency to root for the underdog.  Given my longstanding appreciation for the Mt. Iwate dial, I was happy to see news of the latest Grand Seiko release, the SLGH027, which brings a tweaked version of the Mt. Iwate texture to the Evolution 9 series of watches. The new texture, which appears to have thicker “ridg...

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Introducing – The Fully-Lumed Porsche Design Chronograph 1 F.A.T. 2025 Edition Monochrome
Porsche Design Chronograph 1 F.A.T 2025 Feb 3, 2025

Introducing – The Fully-Lumed Porsche Design Chronograph 1 F.A.T. 2025 Edition

The connection between design studio and watchmaker Porsche Design and the automotive world is… obvious! Not only the company was founded by the man who, in 1964, designed the emblematic Porsche 911 – Mister Ferdinand Alexander “Butzi” Porsche – but most of its watches are inspired by either cars or elements of the 911. In […]

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Hands-On: the New BOLDR Odyssey Worn & Wound
Boldr Odyssey It isn’t Feb 3, 2025

Hands-On: the New BOLDR Odyssey

It isn’t a hot take to say that tool watches tend to be formulaic. Afterall, there are only so many combinations of bezel formats, dial colors and hand styles out there. With new brands borrowing familiar cues and old brands iterating on their own designs, it’s easy to feel underwhelmed by the steady stream of near-identical releases. Oftentimes, I look at a new watch and wish the brand would do something, anything, to put their own spin on even a single component to stand out from the crowd. Well, BOLDR heard my pleas with the newest iteration of their popular Odyssey diver ($799).  And they didn’t just put their own spin on one component… they spun them all. After I unboxed the sky-blue “Horizon” variant, I spent a solid 10 minutes rolling it around in my hands, taking in all the unexpected details. I noticed the funky gear-shaped crown, the translucent dial that reveals the entire date wheel, the unique dual-stripe hands, a shaped date window, and the seemingly never ending cascading angles that make up the aggressive case shape. Just when I thought I’d taken it all in, I turned the watch over to be surprised by an embossed whale on a display caseback. We will get to all those details (including the whale) soon, but first, let’s cover the basics of this far-from-formulaic GMT. The Watch The bold watch with blue accents that kept surprising me is part of BOLDR’s expanded Odyssey collection. Differentiating itself from their more subdued offerings, the ...

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