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Christopher Ward Bel Canto Review Teddy Baldassarre
Christopher Ward Sep 5, 2025

Christopher Ward Bel Canto Review

London-based watchmaker Christopher Ward has achieved the impossible in its relatively short number of years in the watch game, catapulting from if you know, you-know microbrand to one of the most continuously successful indie watch brands on the market. Its founding principles remain largely unchanged, though its scale has grown in the 24 years since its founding: make high-quality watches while cutting what could be called the luxury tax in the industry with a direct-to-consumer model. But there is one distinct product that put the brand on the map more than any other, and that was the introduction of its own chiming watch at an unheard-of price point, the Christopher Ward Bel Canto. As you might have already guessed by the article title, today, we’re taking a microscopic view of the C1 Bel Canto, exploring what has made the watch such a crowd-favorite, and how it holds up today, four years after its initial release.  Christopher Ward Bel Canto History As always, let us begin our horological journey with a history primer on Christopher Ward’s pathway to contemporary success. Luckily for you (and your dear writer), the brand doesn’t have as sweeping a history as many of the centuries-old watchmakers out there, so we can really dive into the microscopic view here. Christopher Ward, whom I would bestow the title of reigning King of Indie Watch Brands, has one of the scrappiest origin stories in the watch world. Founded in 2004 by the trio of Mike France, Peter Ellis,...

Introducing – The Oris x Bamford ProPilot Altimeter Mission Control Monochrome
Oris x Bamford ProPilot Altimeter Sep 5, 2025

Introducing – The Oris x Bamford ProPilot Altimeter Mission Control

In 2014, Oris unveiled the ProPilot Altimeter, a unique wristwatch that combined an automatic Swiss-made calibre with a mechanical altimeter. Following an update in 2023, that singular idea is revisited this year in collaboration with Bamford Watch Department, bringing fresh design and high-tech case construction to the ProPilot Altimeter. The result is the Oris x […]

Precision in Pink: A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 5, 2025

Precision in Pink: A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds

A. Lange & Söhne has just unveiled the fourth livery for the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds, now featuring a pink gold dial. The Jumping Seconds made its debut in 2016, but its unusual feature set and harmonious layout remain impressive nine years later. The new model is a 100-piece limited edition in 18k white gold and features what collectors will no-doubt refer to as a ‘salmon’ dial. But unlike most ‘salmon’ dials that are plated, the dial of the Jumping Seconds is solid 18k pink gold. In other words, its colour is more than skin-deep. Initial thoughts Though it feels like we must be on the tail end of the trend toward salmon dials, Lange’s pink gold dials always look good and might stir up interest in what still feels like an underrated watch. Nearly a decade after launch, the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds remains one of the great regulator-style wristwatches. There’s an extraordinary coherence at play between the design, which references a historical German pocket watch and elevates the deadbeat seconds display, and the movement, which features a one-second remontoir and a return-to-zero mechanism. As ever, the Jumping Seconds presents a wearable 39.9 mm case in 18k white gold, and at just 10.6 mm thick it’s pretty sleek for a watch with so much going on inside. Like its stablemates, it features the characteristic Lange case with a brushed case band and faceted lugs that are attached separately. The L094.1 movement fills the case beautifully, and differ...

New Versions Of The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds And 1815 Tourbillon Fratello
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 5, 2025

New Versions Of The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds And 1815 Tourbillon

Coinciding with Geneva Watch Days 2025, Germany’s A. Lange & Söhne introduces two new variations of existing models. We get new variations of the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds and the 1815 Tourbillon, both made in very small numbers, and both adding subtle but significant updates. The Richard Lange Jumping Seconds comes in a pink-gold dial […] Visit New Versions Of The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds And 1815 Tourbillon to read the full article.

A. Lange & Söhne’s September slate pairs two studies in precision: a platinum 1815 Tourbillon plus a sultry salmon Richard Lange Jumping Seconds Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 5, 2025

A. Lange & Söhne’s September slate pairs two studies in precision: a platinum 1815 Tourbillon plus a sultry salmon Richard Lange Jumping Seconds

Lange unveils a1815 Tourbillon in 950 platinum and a Richard Lange Jumping Seconds in white gold to close off their 2025 releases.The post A. Lange & Söhne’s September slate pairs two studies in precision: a platinum 1815 Tourbillon plus a sultry salmon Richard Lange Jumping Seconds appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Elevates the 1815 Tourbillon with a Black Enamel Dial SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 5, 2025

A. Lange & Söhne Elevates the 1815 Tourbillon with a Black Enamel Dial

First introduced in 2014 as A. Lange & Söhne’s “entry-level” tourbillon (if there is such a thing for the German brand), the 1815 Tourbillon now returns as a limited edition in a striking, but familiar, guise. The new 1815 Tourbillon features a glossy black enamel dial – similar to that found on this year’s Minute Repeater Perpetual – and the same L102.1 movement found in the original version. Like the much pricier Minute Repeater Perpetual, the new tourbillon is not a Handwerkskunst edition, but still boasts a hand-enamelled dial made in-house. Initial thoughts As the base model tourbillon in Lange’s catalogue, the 1815 Tourbillon is less elaborate than the brand’s other tourbillon offerings. But it is nonetheless impressive as the tourbillon incorporates both a hacking and zero-reset mechanism. At most other brands, such a movement would be a top-of-the line offering. That said, the earlier versions were a bit plain. Even the limited edition with a white enamel dial was a little mundane. The Handwerkskunst version was outstanding, but it was just 30 pieces. The new 1815 Tourbillon isn’t extravagantly different; it is essentially a cosmetic update. But it makes all the difference. The glossy black dial is tremendously more appealing than the white enamel dial from before, especially since it is achieved with the champleve technique, eliminating the need for printed numerals. That said, it feels a little soon after the Minute Repeater Perpetual that has ...

CIGA Design Introduces The Remarkable Moon Walker Fratello
Sep 5, 2025

CIGA Design Introduces The Remarkable Moon Walker

Unless you have lived under a rock for four years, you have probably seen and read about the CIGA Design Blue Planet. The distinctive take on a modern watch garnered excitement from watch fans worldwide and won a GPHG award in 2021. We have seen multiple versions of CIGA Design’s remarkable titanium and stainless steel […] Visit CIGA Design Introduces The Remarkable Moon Walker to read the full article.

Introducing: The Oris Big Crown Calibre 113 And Oris × Bamford ProPilot Altimeter “Mission Control” Fratello
Oris Big Crown Calibre 113 Sep 4, 2025

Introducing: The Oris Big Crown Calibre 113 And Oris × Bamford ProPilot Altimeter “Mission Control”

Today, Oris is releasing two big and bold watches. First is the Big Crown Calibre 113, and second is the Oris × Bamford ProPilot Altimeter “Mission Control.” The Big Crown comes with the 10-day power reserve of Calibre 113, which debuted in 2017. It includes a non-linear power reserve indicator, day and date, plus a […] Visit Introducing: The Oris Big Crown Calibre 113 And Oris × Bamford ProPilot Altimeter “Mission Control” to read the full article.

Behrens Teams up With Vianney Halter SJX Watches
Behrens Teams up Sep 4, 2025

Behrens Teams up With Vianney Halter

Behrens teams up with Vianney Halter for the bold, electric meter-inspired KWH Watch, in white or rose gold. A unit of measurement for electricity, KWH is short for “kilowatt-hour” and refers to the electric meter inspiration for the design. The extremely dense movement combines the brand’s chain-driven hour display with rotating minute and power reserve cylinders, and a surprise on the back. It also represents a new frontier for the Chinese brand, as its most expensive offering yet. Initial Thoughts While Behrens’ watches do not always appeal to me aesthetically, I think the brand is an ideal champion for Chinese watchmaking. Unlike some brands marketing Chinese-built watches to global enthusiasts, Behrens is Chinese owned and operated. The brand’s founder, Lin Bingqiang, cut his teeth making parts and custom modules in Shenzhen for brands down in Hong Kong before starting Behrens in 2012. An exploded view of the 870 part movement. Many Chinese manufacturers excel at the engineering and manufacturing side, but have weak soft skills and lack vision. Behrens is strong on all fronts, and this is the brand’s most ambitious, and expensive, project yet. The brand may be over-reliant on computer-generated imagery, but I can confirm these watches are real, functional, and doing the rounds at Geneva Watch Week. Case On the heels of a collaboration with Konstantin Chaykin, Vianney Halter’s partnership is now with Behrens. This comes only days after Mr Halter’s coll...

H. Moser & Cie. has a New Take on the Wandering Hours SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie has Sep 4, 2025

H. Moser & Cie. has a New Take on the Wandering Hours

Schaffhausen-based H. Moser & Cie. returns to a complication it once offered with the Pioneer Flying Hours, a new take on the wandering hours. The watch indicates the minutes on a central ring, while the hours seemingly jump from one window to the other. With this intriguing new display, the Flying Hours might just be being one of the most interesting jumping hours on the market.  Initial thoughts The Pioneer Flying Hours is not Moser’s first attempt at the wandering hours: the Endeavour Flying Hours was launched some seven years ago and an update on the historical complication. With new Pioneer, however, Moser manages to capture the mystique of both early wandering hours and mysterious clocks with its darting, wandering display. It is a tidy and admittedly novel reinterpretation of the wandering hours, which will surely appeal to collectors. There is something poetic about the minutes scale moving continuously across shuttered apertures, its sweep much like a bridge between points in time, here represented spatially. The combination of the sporty and large Pioneer case is also odd with the wandering hours, historically a complication associated with more formal, slim cases. At almost 43 mm, the case is large even for a sports watch. And to nitpick: if there is anything objectionable from the get-go, that is the name. Strictly speaking, “Flying hours” describes a revolving platform that is only supported from below - like a flying tourbillon. Here the hour disks a...

Hands-On: Behrens and Vianney Halter Collaborate on the Impressive Master Collection “KWH” Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Behrens Sep 4, 2025

Hands-On: Behrens and Vianney Halter Collaborate on the Impressive Master Collection “KWH” Limited Edition

Vianney Halter, the legendary independent watchmaker, has collaborated with Behrens, the Chinese indie that over the last few years has gradually upped the ante in terms of their watchmaking and their own ambitions in the international watch industry. The new watch, the Behrens Master Collection “KWH” Limited Edition, is sure to be one of the most talked about watches of Geneva Watch Days 2025, and should cement Behrens as a real player in the independent watch scene, while reintroducing Halter to a new generation of enthusiasts.  Collaborations within the indie watch world are frequent, so it’s worth spending a moment to contextualize the importance of Vianney Halter working with Behrens on this watch in particular. Halter is considered by many to be on the proverbial Mt. Rushmore of indie watchmakers who set the stage for the modern avant-garde watchmaking moment that we’re in the midst of. His Antiqua, a truly radical design upon its release, is still one of the most influential watches of its era, or any other. That he’s chosen to not just lend his name to a Behrens release but actually create an all new caliber for it feels like the strongest possible endorsement, and a signal that he and the young Chinese brand share a certain watchmaking philosophy.  The chief aesthetic inspiration behind the new piece is the square shape of antique electricity meters and the concept of “pixel nostalgia” (think video games like Snake and Tetris and you get the idea)....

First Look – The New and Unexpected TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer Since Sep 4, 2025

First Look – The New and Unexpected TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer

Since its launch in 1963, the TAG Heuer Carrera has been synonymous with speed, clarity, and performance on the racetrack. Jack Heuer designed it as a driver’s chronograph, stripped down to essentials with maximum legibility. Yet throughout its long life, the Carrera has never been a one-dimensional racetrack watch; it has adapted to aviation and yachting, and […]

Gears and Gaskets: Spotting Mechanical Icons on Wrist and Road at the Lime Rock Historic Festival 43 Worn & Wound
Breitling Premier Chronograph from Sep 4, 2025

Gears and Gaskets: Spotting Mechanical Icons on Wrist and Road at the Lime Rock Historic Festival 43

Each Labor Day weekend for the last 42 years, the quiet hillsides of Northwestern Connecticut boom to life with sounds from a bygone era as vintage engines triumphantly roar to life on the circuit. This year, the 43rd Historic Festival, was my first year joining the action. Now, Lime Rock is not just a celebration of motorsports’ golden era spent staring at showpiece collector cars from behind a velvet rope, but rather a gathering of people for whom mechanical beauty and intricacy hold enduring appeal. David Von Bader with a late 1970s Heuer Montreal Ref. 750-503N As such, I entered under the assumption that while lifting bonnets, wrenching on bolts, polishing headlights, and lubricating gaskets, there would be some level of horological enthusiasm slipping out from under the cuff. Walking from the hillside into the paddock, it was immediately clear that the connection between car culture and horology held true. Breaking free from the distraction on track as the yellow pitbull 1965 Mini Cooper chased down a few vintage Porsches and BMWs, my eye snagged on a disk of gold glistening in the mechanics’ pit. There, wrenching away in a Jaguar mechanics jacket under a 1952 Jaguar XK120 propped up on stilts was James Alder from Reno, Nevada. Hands covered in grease, Jim was not gentle with the precious tool that slipped in and out of his cuff as he reached for engine fittings, trying to diagnose his firing problems. On his wrist sat a vintage Breitling Premier Chronograph from ...

25 Of The Best Red Dial Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 4, 2025

25 Of The Best Red Dial Watches

More so than almost any other color option, a watch with a red dial begs to be noticed - whether the watch is large or small, simple or complicated, soberly matte or luxuriously shiny in its choice of case material. It’s not hard to see why: crimson and scarlet tones have long symbolized heat, sensuality, and even hints of temptation and danger. Best of all, for anyone inclined to take the plunge into red-dial watches, there are more options these days than ever, in just about every price range and style. Here we showcase 25 watches with red dials, some of which you can buy new and some which might require a little hunting on the secondary market. Orient Bambino Day-Date Price: $430, Case Size: 40.5mm, Thickness: 12.6mm, Lug to Lug: 46.5mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: Automatic F6B22 Often under the radar of American watch consumers and overshadowed by its much larger Japanese brethren, Citizen and Seiko (which with it shares a corporate connection through Epson), Orient has been making value-oriented watches in Japan since 1950. The Bambino, Orient’s dressy gents’ model, mostly offers simple three-handed options but also a handful of “quiet” complications, like the intriguing designed Bambino Day-Date, here in a red-dialed execution. The Roman hour numerals and railway minute track surround a pair of asymmetrically balanced subdials, a smaller one at 10 o’clock for the day of the week and a larger one at 5 o’c...

Why YES Watches Deserve Your Attention (and A Slot in Your Watch Box) Worn & Wound
Sep 4, 2025

Why YES Watches Deserve Your Attention (and A Slot in Your Watch Box)

When I started collecting watches many years ago, I vividly remember stumbling upon a blog discussing YES and their array of unique and technologically advanced watches. I’m typically not someone who utilizes many of the functions on a watch besides the basic time and date keeping, but when I saw how complicated the dial and modes were on these, I knew I would have to own at least one at some point. Now with two different models in my collection, I wish I could go back and thank the author of that blog for steering me in the right direction all those years prior. For those of you who haven’t seen or heard of YES before, allow me to shed light on them just like that blog did.   A Brief History of the Company For a more in-depth rundown on how YES came to be, I highly recommend reading the writeup by the brand’s founder himself, Bjorn Kartomten, featured on their website. Here, I want to instead offer some insight on the brand’s models and technological innovations rather than the nuts and bolts of how the brand came to be. As I’m sure you’ve already been able to gather by the included photos thus far, these aren’t your typical three-handers. Throughout YES’ catalog are watches boasting equinox and solstice alerts, lunar phase information, daylight and nighttime readouts and estimates, sun and moon calculators to show lunar data for any locations between the years 2000 and 2100, high and low tide indicators, phase elapse countdown timers, compasses, alarms,...

Introducing – The Bold New Oris Big Crown Calibre 113 with Business Calendar Monochrome
Citizen s” Sep 4, 2025

Introducing – The Bold New Oris Big Crown Calibre 113 with Business Calendar

Oris has long defined itself as a maker of mechanical watches for “today’s world citizens”, with a clear commitment to function, value, robust engineering, supported by original looks. The new Big Crown Calibre 113 extends that philosophy by combining the brand’s historic pilot’s watch design with one of its most advanced hand-wound movements. Initially introduced […]

Style and Substance in Greubel Forsey’s QP Balancier SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey s QP Balancier Greubel Sep 4, 2025

Style and Substance in Greubel Forsey’s QP Balancier

Greubel Forsey repackages its cutting edge perpetual calendar in a sleeker, more accessible format as the QP Balancier. It’s still a highly legible calendar that adjusts forward and back via the crown without need of tools or fear of damage. Despite the simpler styling, the QP Balancier retains the high-end movement decoration the brand is known for. Initial Thoughts Greubel Forsey was arguably a latecomer to the world of complications, spending its first decade on chronometry, refining the tourbillon. The brand’s first complication, the GMT presented in 2011, applied an unfamiliar approach to a familiar complication. That set the tone for the brand’s first perpetual calendar four years later – the Quantième Perpétuel à Équation. At its heart was a “mechanical computer” programmed with 48-month leap year cycle that allowed the calendar to be adjusted forward and back without issue, all from the crown. The Quantième Perpétuel à Équation of 2015 While the result is not novel, – Ulysse Nardin and H. Moser & Cie. have bi-directional perpetual calendar as well – the method certainly is. Greubel Forsey paired the mechanical computer with a similarly sophisticated in-line display – using four layers of stacked disks – making its perpetual as easy to read as it is to use. The new QP Balancier is a more focused watch than its predecessor, as it does away with the 24-second inclined tourbillon and equation of time. While wider, the case is also slimmer an...

Ulysse Nardin’s Entry-Level Freak in Crystalium SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin s Entry-Level Freak Sep 4, 2025

Ulysse Nardin’s Entry-Level Freak in Crystalium

The latest iteration of Ulysse Nardin’s most affordable Freak is the Freak X Crystalium, a limited edition that blends the disruptive Freak aesthetic with a novel decorative element in the form of a dial in Crystalium. Though it has an almost organic look, Crystalium is actually the result of crystallised ruthenium deposited via physical vapour deposition (PVD). The advanced, unusual material is decorative, yet harks back to the Freak’s origins as a materials pioneer. Initial thoughts The Freak has been a core collection in Ulysse Nardin’s roster since the first model was launched back in 2001. The line has been defined by disruptive and bold technical construction and a pioneering use of silicon. But lately it feels watered down; the Freak X dials back on the exotic tech to make the iconic design more attainable. And the many iterations of the Freak X don’t help its case.  But paradoxically the new Freak X is a return to one of the core values of the Freak series: materials science. Ulysse Nardin experimented with all sorts of materials over the years with the Freak as a platform, ranging from the DIAMonSIL escapement to silicon movement bridges to mono block oscillators. The Freak X Crystalium employs new material, but this time it serves an aesthetic function as opposed to a mechanical one. The large rotating disk which serves as the dial’s foundation is covered in an organic-seeming, quartz-like glittering surface that’s the result of years of research.  ...

In-Depth: Ferdinand Berthoud Tests the Limits of ‘Hand Made’ SJX Watches
Chopard Sep 4, 2025

In-Depth: Ferdinand Berthoud Tests the Limits of ‘Hand Made’

Few brands approach marine chronometer-style wristwatches with the intensity of Ferdinand Berthoud (FB). Fewer still have the capacity to produce a watch that is truly hand made. The brand has leaned into these strengths to good effect with the Naissance d’une Montre 3, which is perhaps the most labour-intensive wristwatch ever created. Marking the third official chapter of the Time Æon Foundation’s Naissance d’une Montre project, the Montre 3 is the byproduct of a six year quest to thoroughly document the steps required to make a chain and fusee wristwatch using only hand-operated tools. While the production of the Montre 3 involves more than 80 individuals from both FB and its parent Chopard, the labour involved equates to roughly a full year’s work for five people to produce each of the 11 pieces that will be made in the coming years. Initial thoughts It’s easy to feel jaded about the smoke and mirrors of luxury watch marketing, with terms like ‘hand made’ and ‘in-house’ used all too freely, making it difficult to separate the signal from the noise. Make no mistake, the Montre 3 is, in some ways, what all traditional haute horlogerie watches aspire to be, and takes the concept of hand craftsmanship to its absolute limit. The Montre 3 is neither inventive nor complicated, but the intrinsic quality of its construction is immediately obvious and breathtaking in its own right. To some extent, the simplicity of the 44.3 mm white gold case demonstrates the ...

In-Depth – The Return of the TAG Heuer TH-Carbonspring Oscillator, Inside new Carbon Monaco and Carrera Models Monochrome
TAG Heuer TH-Carbonspring Oscillator Inside new Sep 4, 2025

In-Depth – The Return of the TAG Heuer TH-Carbonspring Oscillator, Inside new Carbon Monaco and Carrera Models

Since Christiaan Huygens paired a balance wheel and spiral spring in 1675, the hairspring has been the beating heart of every mechanical watch. Its material has always dictated chronometric performance. Steel, used for centuries, suffered from magnetism and temperature drift. Special alloys developed in the 20th century improved reliability – from Elinvar to Nivarox/Nivachron, made […]

First Look – The Artistic Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan x Bulgari Monochrome
Bulgari If you are attending Sep 4, 2025

First Look – The Artistic Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan x Bulgari

If you are attending the sixth edition of Geneva Watch Days, don’t miss Bulgari’s retrospective of the Octo Finissimo’s impressive trajectory in the ultra-thin watchmaking arena since 2014.  Alongside the record-breaking models is a new Octo Finissimo collaboration model made with Korean artist Lee Ufan, the latest in a long line of artists and architects […]