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All Rolex Day-Date References (President) Rolex

Every Rolex Day-Date "President": 1803, 18038, 18238, 118238, Day-Date 40 (228xxx), Day-Date 36 (128xxx).
Pharrell’s watch collection is as hot as a spacecraft upon re-entry Time+Tide
Jun 25, 2022

Pharrell’s watch collection is as hot as a spacecraft upon re-entry

Producer/musician/songwriter/fashion mogul-hyphenate Pharrell Williams has seemingly done it all. Since his early days producing and writing songs for the likes of Mystikal, Pusha T, and Jay-Z as half of The Neptunes, he’s a guy that never stops. Besides two solo albums and five with his group N.E.R.D., just look at this small slice of the … ContinuedThe post Pharrell’s watch collection is as hot as a spacecraft upon re-entry appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Up Close: Montblanc 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph SJX Watches
Montblanc 1858 Jun 21, 2022

Up Close: Montblanc 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph

The latest offering in Montblanc’s high-end chronograph lineup is the 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph. In many ways it looks and feels like the Minerva chronographs that came before it. The case remains extra-large because of the pocket watch movement within and it still has a fluted bezel along with cathedral hands. But the Unveiled Secret is totally different from its predecessors, as its movement has been inverted in order to bring the most interesting bits to the front. That required some mechanical rearrangement to accomplish, but manages to realise the desire often expressed by collectors who want to wear a watch with the finely finished movement showcased on the dial. Initial thoughts Hand-wind chronographs have been a specialty of Montblanc, at least for its high-end models, since it acquired Minerva several years ago. Minerva came along with its stable of historical chronograph movements, all traditionally constructed in an elegant, delicate manner, albeit in a slightly anachronistic manner since the calibres mostly dated to the early-20th century. As a result, Montblanc can count several impressive chronographs in its collection, but the Unveiled Secret does it differently. Though the inversion trick has been done before by other hands, the Unveiled Secret is still a little more creative and a little more interesting. It relies on a simple trick: the hands are mounted on what is ordinarily the back of the movement, while the entire mo...

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HANDS-ON: The BALL Engineer III Marvelight Chronometer 40mm Time+Tide
Jun 21, 2022

HANDS-ON: The BALL Engineer III Marvelight Chronometer 40mm

BALL are a bit of an oddity in the hierarchy of Swiss watches, having enjoyed such a rich history but not always getting the attention they deserve. They’re not exactly a budget brand, but their prices are definitely reasonable, so they fit into a very versatile pocket of luxury. Having been updated with three fresh colour … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The BALL Engineer III Marvelight Chronometer 40mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style GMT delivers an automatic GMT for under $1000 Time+Tide
Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style Jun 18, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style GMT delivers an automatic GMT for under $1000

Here’s something I didn’t see coming: an entry-level automatic GMT watch from Seiko has just dropped, and it’s packing some serious GMT-Master vibes. The three colourways remind me of the modding community from the SKX message boards back in the day, where home tinkerers would modify their Seiko divers with aftermarket two-tone bezel inserts and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style GMT delivers an automatic GMT for under $1000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Furlan Marri Introduces the Ref. 2116-A “Sector” Dial Automatic SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 1463 Now Jun 15, 2022

Furlan Marri Introduces the Ref. 2116-A “Sector” Dial Automatic

A brand that made its debut just last year, Furlan Marri is all about affordable watches with retro style – just like many of its peers that entered the business around the same time. But the brand manages to set itself apart with a keen sense for design and details, something that was evident in its inaugural model, a quartz chronograph modelled on the Patek Philippe ref. 1463. Now the brand unveils something that’s arguably more compelling, the Reference 2116-A “Black Sector”. Once again vintage in style with compact proportions, the “Black Sector” is however automatic. Initial thoughts My first impression of the Reference 2116-A was positive. The styling is appealing and it is well priced, despite being a major step-up from the quartz chronograph in terms of case quality and the movement. In fact, the 2116-A is very well priced. It costs about US$1,250 but brings along fancy features such as artfully finished “cow horn” lugs, which is typically found on more expensive watches or actual vintage watches. At the same time, the watch is replete with retro details that collectors will like. That includes a properly proportioned dial where everything is laid out just nice, in contrast to many modern-day “sector” dial that can appear sparse. And the Breguet numerals may not be original or novel, but they are pleasing. As appealing as it is, the 2116-A still has a few shortcomings, at least for me personally. One is the wide cover for the central boss of th...

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Business News: Sam Hines Joins Online Auctioneer Loupe This SJX Watches
Cartier Crash “London” Jun 14, 2022

Business News: Sam Hines Joins Online Auctioneer Loupe This

A watch auction veteran who has had stints at all the major auction houses – Sotheby’s, Christie’s, and Phillips – Sam Hines has just been named managing director of Loupe This, the online-only watch auction platform that was established last year. Mr Hines will be based in Hong Kong, where he will oversee the soon-to-open Loupe This operation in the city. Unlike traditional auctioneers that hold seasonal sales with the online sales in-between, Loupe This has auctions opening and closing every weekday. In the 12 months it’s been in operation, Loupe This has sold over US$15 million of watches, including major lots like a 1967 Cartier Crash “London” that sold for over US$1.5 million. Now also a shareholder in Loupe This, Mr Hines (pictured above left) joins cofounders Eric Ku (centre) and Justin Gruenberg (right), who are both prominent vintage watch dealers in the United States. Having turned a teenage hobby into a profession, Mr Ku got his start as a specialist in vintage Rolex, though he has since diversified into other genres of collectible watches as well as watch restoration and repair. Mr Gruenberg, on the other hand, had watches in his blood, having been born into the business; his father, Donald, was a major vintage watch dealer since the 1980s. The record-setting 1967 Crash that sold on Loupe This in June 2022 The pair decided to form Loupe This to cater to the increasing and unending demand for watches. “The appetite for watches is all year long,...

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Auction Watch: Cartier “Model A” Mystery Clock For a Good Cause SJX Watches
Cartier Model A” Mystery Clock Jun 11, 2022

Auction Watch: Cartier “Model A” Mystery Clock For a Good Cause

While lesser known than wristwatches like the Tank and Crash, the mystery clock is as quintessentially Cartier as its wristwatch counterparts. Bonhams’ upcoming Hong Kong auction includes a prime example of the classic Cartier “Model A” mystery clock. The first type of mystery clock developed by Cartier, the Model A, made its debut in 1912 and the first example was sold to banker J. Pierpont Morgan. Compact but striking in its details and transparency, the Model A is essentially a block of rock crystal sitting on a mineral stone base with accents of gold, enamel, and diamonds. This example that will go on the block at Bonhams dates to 1928 and sits on an onyx base. The mystery clock, however, wasn’t invented at Cartier. Instead the clock with floating hands was conceived by Maurice Coüet, a clockmaker who was first a supplier to Cartier before joining the jeweller. Coüet in turn was inspired by the work of 19th century clockmaker-turned-magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin, the inventor of the mystery clock concept. The Model A is a two-axis mystery clock with the driving pinions for the hands hidden in each column of the frame Notably, the Model A clock is being sold to benefit an Australian conservation non-profit, thanks to the late Antony Coote, a farmer and businessman whose family formerly controlled Angus & Coote, a storied name in Australian retail that was once the biggest jeweller in the country. After selling his family’s stake in 2006, Coote turn...

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Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Jun 7, 2022

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222

At Watches & Wonders 2022 Vacheron Constantin introduced watches in a diverse range, but sandwiched in between the artisanal decoration and complications was a new addition to the Historiques collection of vintage remakes. An unexpected launch given that Vacheron Constantin (VC) already has a luxury-sports watch in its lineup, and largely focuses on dress watches and complications in any case, the Historiques 222 was nevertheless a highlight amongst the new launches, especially given the current appetite for such watches. But the 222 is more than just something that caters to today’s fads. It is a sympathetic remake that manages to incorporate substantial, hidden improvements while preserving the look of the original – but not the feel thanks to a significantly improved bracelet. Initial thoughts As the Overseas has long matured into an established collection amongst VC’s offerings, the return of its predecessor is surprising. My initial reaction was that it is confusing to offer two different luxury sports watch models simultaneously, but it makes sense given that the 222 is a Historiques model, a vintage remake in other words. Not only does VC have a track record of reviving vintage models in style, the 222 can cater to an audience that seeks something more elegant and compact than the Overseas. It’s likely that the return of the 222 was a deliberate decision on VC’s part to create a luxury-sports watch that is different. Of the three luxury sports watches ...

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Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron High-Beat Diver SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Jun 2, 2022

Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron High-Beat Diver

Historically a prominent participant – and winner – at observatory chronometer trials, Longines once had a stable of extra-precise, high-frequency movements, though the calibres have been long discontinued as were the chronometer competitions. Several decades later the watchmaker from Saint Imier pays homage to that history by reviving the Ultra-Chron, which is based on its namesake 1968 original but with a newly-developed high-beat movement contained within vintage-inspired, cushion-shaped case matched with a similarly retro steel bracelet. Initial thoughts The vintage Ultra-Chron is a good basis for a remake as it avoids being yet another vintage-inspired diver with a round case. While the design isn’t new, the cushion case distinguishes it from the competition, offering enthusiasts something less common. Personally, I like the functional, 1970s style of the Ultra-Chron; the red accents lend the watch the feel of an instrument. But going by how Longines has expanded the palette of the Legend Diver, additional, modern colours for the Ultra-Chron are a possibility (and a certainty if it sells well). But the new Ultra-Chron is notable not just for its style. Though the Longines catalogue has an impressive tally of historical remakes, all of its Heritage models to date contain standard movements identical to those found in the brand’s other models. The Ultra-Chron, on the other hand, stands out for the high-beat calibre that was developed specially for it (though t...

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Top 100 Jewelers In America Teddy Baldassarre
May 27, 2022

Top 100 Jewelers In America

The United States of America is home to many fine jewelry and watch retailers, many of them family owned, nearly all of them the product of an inspiring story of American entrepreneurship and perseverance. Here we showcase our choices for the Top 100 Jewelers in America, with each state represented by at least one exceptional business, in alphabetical order by state. Along the way, we’ll name a few important watch brands carried at each retailer, and share some tidbits about their histories, awards and honors, and local charitable efforts in their communities.  Alabama Bromberg & Co. Being in business for more than 185 years has allowed Bromberg to establish a solid reputation in Alabama for selling jewelry timepieces, engagement rings, and gifts. In fact, it is the oldest business operating in the entire state. City: BirminghamStore Hours: Monday - Saturday 10:00 AM - 6:00 PMReputable Brands Sold: Rolex, TAG Heuer, Raymond Weil, Victorinox, & more Ware Jewelers This is a jewelry store that considers its customers to be friends, and it delivers service as if that were the case. Ware Jewelers was founded in 1946 and has strived to hold its strong reputation ever since. City: MontgomeryStore Hours: Monday - Saturday 10:00 AM - 6:00 PMReputable Brands Sold: OMEGA, TAG Heuer, David Yurman & more  Alaska Zhaveri Caribbean Gems Established in 1986, Zhaveri Caribbean Gems has been serving its local community for over 30 years. It is uniquely positioned in the busies...

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Breitling Introduces Navitimer Cosmonaute B02 Limited Edition SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Navitimer Cosmonaute B02 May 24, 2022

Breitling Introduces Navitimer Cosmonaute B02 Limited Edition

One of the watches synonymous with the pioneer era of spaceflight is the Breitling Cosmonaute, which was worn by Scott Carpenter on the 1962 Mercury-Atlas 7 mission, making him the second American to orbit the Earth and the Cosmonaute the first Swiss-made wristwatch to make it into space. The Cosmonaute has been part of the Breitling catalogue in various forms in the decades since, but now for the 60th anniversary of Carpenter’s journey to space on board the Aurora 7 spacecraft, Breitling has unveiled a remake, the Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute Limited Edition. The 362-piece edition is faithful to the original in terms of design, but upgraded with the in-house Caliber B02 and a bit of luxe in the form of a platinum bezel. A page from the 1964 Breitling catalogue showing the Navitimer-Cosmonaute ref. 809, the same model worn by Carpenter in space Initial thoughts I’ve always liked the distinctive aesthetic of the Navitimer – it is actually an aviation instrument – and the Cosmonaute is essentially a more complex version of the same thing, making it even more of an instrument. Granted all of that functionality has very limited use in the modern world, but it is still an appealing watch that possesses significant history. That in turn makes the Cosmonaute remake an appealing watch, especially since Breitling did a good job reproducing the original. The diameter remains the same but the modern-day version is necessarily thicker due to the in-house B02 movemen...

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MICRO-MONDAYS: The Biotic Formicidae delivers an original field watch inspired by (wait for it…) ants! Time+Tide
May 23, 2022

MICRO-MONDAYS: The Biotic Formicidae delivers an original field watch inspired by (wait for it…) ants!

Microbrand releases can often be just an eclectic mix of design trends thrown together, or a wild attempt at doing something different without considering what people actually want. The Biotic Formicidae is a rare example of an original watch design that has a clear aesthetic vision without second-hand trend-hopping, and of all things, it takes … ContinuedThe post MICRO-MONDAYS: The Biotic Formicidae delivers an original field watch inspired by (wait for it…) ants! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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A Magnificent Watch Collection Goes on Show in London SJX Watches
Patek Philippe rank them amongst May 19, 2022

A Magnificent Watch Collection Goes on Show in London

For me, watches are and always have been about people – those that make them, those that design them, and those that buy them. And while many of you reading this will do your utmost (likely on a daily basis) to keep your interest in watches in check with your bank balance, every so often you meet a collector, an enthusiast, who takes things to a whole other level. Somebody who has gone all in, a collector who takes it to a level that even insiders like Thierry Stern of Patek Philippe rank them amongst the greatest collectors of all time. Patrick Getreide is that individual. Having spent the past four decades quietly building one of the world’s greatest privately-owned collections of wrist and pocket watches, he has now put all of his timepieces on show for the world to enjoy and admire. The show I feel hugely privileged and excited having visited the exhibition on its opening day in London. Privileged because there were only a few press invited; excited because I believe it will open up our passion to more and more, aligning watchmaking with art, where it belongs. The exhibition comprises 168 best-of-the-best vintage and contemporary museum-quality watches, among which are unrepeatable special orders, ultra-rare, limited editions, the most valuable examples of their type, and the largest number of Patek Philippe pieces once owned by the celebrated American collector Henry Graves Jr. now in private hands. It is also the first curated exhibition of a private collection ...

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Breguet Introduces the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 in White Gold and Blue SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces May 18, 2022

Breguet Introduces the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 in White Gold and Blue

Introduced in 2005, the Breguet Tradition is characterised by its inverted movement that reveals most of the movement on the dial. It was a modern concept inspired by the 19th century: the movement was inspired by the souscription pocket watches created by Abraham-Louis Breguet. Since its launch the Tradition has grown into a full-fledged collection ranging from time-only models to the top-of-the-line tourbillon with fusee-and-chain. One of the simplest, yet most striking, is the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597, which has been given a new look with an attractive blue dial. Initial thoughts I have always found the Tradition attractive, particularly the early models with smaller case sizes that tend to work better with in traditional palettes like yellow gold or “pink-on-pink”. The newer models are more sophisticated mechanically, but their cases are larger while the colours are mostly modern in greys and blacks, so the retro-elegance is absent. But the latest Quantième Rétrograde is amongst the best looking Tradition models in the current catalogue. It’s mechanically identical to the original introduced in 2020, but now it gets a two-tone dial that has more contrast, giving it with a stronger character and easily setting it apart from the more classical Tradition models. The date indicator makes a 180 degree jump at the end of each month The blue-on-grey livery isn’t novel, since it was used before on the boutique edition Tradition 7097, a simpler watch tha...

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The updates that make the new CasiOak G-Shock GA-B2100 even better Time+Tide
Casio ak G-Shock GA-B2100 even May 14, 2022

The updates that make the new CasiOak G-Shock GA-B2100 even better

If you think the Casio G-Shock GA2100 is an amazing watch, you’d be absolutely correct. However, things are about to get better. Building on the success of the so-called CasiOak (our #1 watch review of 2021 by views) comes the new Casio G-Shock GA-B2100 lineup, bringing some welcome upgrades to the table in terms of functionality, while … ContinuedThe post The updates that make the new CasiOak G-Shock GA-B2100 even better appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph Aston Martin F1 Edition Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph Aston May 12, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph Aston Martin F1 Edition

Anyone who knows me, knows I’m a fan of Formula 1 racing. Since the halcyon days of Senna and Schumacher, I’ve been fascinated with those four-wheeled fighter jets and their pilots, pushing the limits of man and machine in their quest for motoring immortality. And I’m especially stoked that the sport has increased the size … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph Aston Martin F1 Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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MICRO-MONDAYS: The AERONOM AeroOne is a street-tough brute of a watch Time+Tide
May 9, 2022

MICRO-MONDAYS: The AERONOM AeroOne is a street-tough brute of a watch

The AERONOM AeroOne is born from concrete jungles, hardened beneath derelict overpasses and finessed in underground clubs. The brand’s origin, after all, is credited to the Notorious B.I.G track, Sky’s The Limit, whose spirit of audacity inspired the founders they could start a watch company themselves. In other words, this brand take their street style seriously. Certain elements … ContinuedThe post MICRO-MONDAYS: The AERONOM AeroOne is a street-tough brute of a watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Places: The Time Museum of Tehran SJX Watches
May 8, 2022

Places: The Time Museum of Tehran

Iran certainly isn’t the first country that comes to mind when pondering the art and science of measuring time. Besides the obvious fact that the country is historically not a watchmaking nation, the modern-day geopolitics have isolated Iran. But this was not always the case. Before the Islamic Revolution, Iran’s economy was open and boasted considerable dynamism. The country still retained its historical role as an international hub that connected East and West, an important position that allowed Iran to cultivate relations with most of the world’s industrialised countries.  An enduring legacy of Iran’s historically significant status in Near East and its extensive connections with leading nations is preserved, seemingly frozen in time, within one of Tehran’s elaborate, pre-Revolutionary mansions. Located in the Zafaranieh district – one of the city’s oldest districts that got its name from the wealth saffron merchants who once populated the area – the mansion is home to the Time Museum of Tehran. Zafaranieh is an upscale area that’s home to many embassies, including those of the Brazil, Germany, Japan, Switzerland, and Qatar, but the original building where the museum stands predates most of them. It was originally a plain, single-story home dating to the Qajar dynasty (1796-1925), which ruled Iran before the Pahlavis, the last imperial family of Iran who were overthrown during the revolution of 1979. But it was only when Hossein Khodadad, a prolifi...

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VIDEO: Come behind the scenes with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s CEO Catherine Rénier at the BEST booth of Watches and Wonders Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre s CEO Catherine Rénier May 6, 2022

VIDEO: Come behind the scenes with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s CEO Catherine Rénier at the BEST booth of Watches and Wonders

Anyone that’s attended a major watch fair – Baselworld, SIHH, Watches and Wonders, less so Geneva Watch Days – knows that the scale and grandeur of these shindigs pushes the bounds of belief. Impossible is nothing when it comes to the extravagant architecture and wild scope of vision that brands unveil to help get their … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Come behind the scenes with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s CEO Catherine Rénier at the BEST booth of Watches and Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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MICRO MONDAYS: The Artel Rotec V2 offers futuristic watchmaking at an accessible price Time+Tide
May 2, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Artel Rotec V2 offers futuristic watchmaking at an accessible price

You’re already familiar with the formula. Exotic material for the tonneau case, openworked dial with a complication or two, a rubber strap and a price that makes your eyes water. Well, the Artel Rotec V2 is all of those things, save the extortionate cost. Partnering with watch designer Rodolphe Cattin, who has designed watches for … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Artel Rotec V2 offers futuristic watchmaking at an accessible price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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English Independents Team Up for the “Fears Garrick” SJX Watches
IWC Portugieser which Apr 29, 2022

English Independents Team Up for the “Fears Garrick”

A pair of watchmakers with English roots, Fears and Garrick have banded together to create a wristwatch that bears the aesthetic of the former while relying on the mechanics of the latter, the Fears Garrick. Founded in 1846 but having gone out of business during the Quartz Crisis, Fears is an English brand that was revived in 2016 by a descendant of its founder. Though it was not in continuous operation, Fears is now one of the oldest, family-owned English watch brands. Its modern-day offerings are all about clean, simple designs inspired by watches from its past catalogue, which are sometimes paired with period-correct, vintage movements. Garrick, on the other hand, was founded in 2014. Sitting in a higher price point than the typical Fears, Garrick’s offerings are constructed with the help of Swiss specialists, including Andreas Strehler, and dressed up with traditional decoration such as engine turning. David Brailsford of Garrick (left), and Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the great-great-great-grandson of Fears’ founder Initial thoughts The Fears Garrick is essentially a Garrick S1, the brand’s most impressive offering to date, but redesigned to give it a simpler aesthetic. Though intriguing, the open dial of the S1 has been done away with and the result is minimalist but appealing. I actually prefer the look of the Fears Garrick over the S1. But the Fears Garrick does bring to mind the IWC Portugieser, which is a good thing. For anyone who found the movement of ...

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Control in Blue SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Apr 29, 2022

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Control in Blue

The Master Control was first conceived in 1992 as Jaeger-LeCoultre’s best offering in terms of accuracy and reliability, with every watch undergoing a 1,000-hour, in-house quality control test. While the rigorous testing was fairly novel at the time, it has since become the norm for all Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) watches. But the Master Control line has lived on. Facelifted in 2020, the Master Control watches have grown moderately in size to suit contemporary states but they retain the restrained design that characterised the original range. Most of the models sport a muted silver dial, but for the 30th anniversary of the collection, JLC has introduced the Master Control Date and Master Control Calendar with tri-tone blue dials. The simpler of the duo – the Master Control Date Initial thoughts My first impression of the watches is positive. Blue is a contemporary colour that nudges the aesthetic towards a more casual style, as opposed to the retro-formal look of the standard, silver-dial models. Notably, the limited-edition pair are ore than a change of colour. The thoughtful design is evident through the details, especially with the tri-tone finish of the dial. While blue can be found practically everywhere in watchmaking, tri-tone blue is unusual and attractive. And the calendar windows reveal discs that are in blue to match the dial. The red accents as well as the starry background of the moon phase are details that make the dial more interesting Both watches are othe...

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In-Depth: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref. 16202 and the Cal. 7121 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref Apr 27, 2022

In-Depth: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref. 16202 and the Cal. 7121

Launched in January 2022 to kick off the 50th anniversary year of Audemars Piguet’s most famous watch, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202 is the latest generation – or the third generation specifically – of the quintessential Royal Oak design. Design-wise the new “Jumbo” doesn’t depart from its predecessor, the ref. 15202, or even the original ref. 5402 of 1972. Audemars Piguet (AP) has smartly kept the design unchanged, but the watch has been thoroughly and smartly upgraded in many respects, especially in terms of ergonomics and mechanics. The new “Jumbo” is undoubtedly a “hype” watch of today, but it has considerable intrinsic qualities that mark it out as a thoughtfully constructed timepiece, most notably the cal. 7121 within that’s entirely new and the replacement for the long-in-tooth cal. 2120/2121 that has powered every generation of the “Jumbo” since 1972. Developed from the ground up to fit the slim dimensions of the “Jumbo” case, the cal. 7121 still manages to incorporate various amenities and advancements expected in a 21st century construction by a respected manufacture. We explain the movement in depth below. Initial thoughts Famously penned by Gerald Genta in 1972, the original Royal Oak ref. 5402 has near perfect proportions. Wide but flat, angular yet graceful, the “Jumbo” is easily distinguishable from other Royal Oak models. Most other Royal Oak models tend to be thicker regardless of diameter, making the ...

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