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All Rolex Day-Date References (President) Rolex

Every Rolex Day-Date "President": 1803, 18038, 18238, 118238, Day-Date 40 (228xxx), Day-Date 36 (128xxx).

Breguet Unveils the Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat Anniversaire 5365 SJX Watches
Breguet Unveils Nov 16, 2021

Breguet Unveils the Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat Anniversaire 5365

Breguet is marking its invention of the tourbillon – way back in 1801, or 220 years ago – with an elegantly simple variant of its extra-thin tourbillon. The Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat Anniversaire 5365 is classically Breguet in style, with a handful of aesthetic flourishes to mark it out as an anniversary edition. And it is truly a limited edition of only 35 watches, which is also the number of tourbillon pocket watches Abraham-Louis Breguet made in his lifetime. Initial thoughts Breguet’s Tourbillon Extra Plat is already impressively executed for a slim, simple watch, especially with a skeleton movement. The cal. 581 inside is typical of modern-day Breguet movements – incorporating technology in the form of a silicon hairspring and escapement, while boasting a high level of hand finishing. Fortunately, the anniversary edition doesn’t try to do too much differently. In fact, it is almost indistinguishable from the standard version. But that simplicity is appealing because it captures the spirit of Breguet, especially in its details like the off-centre dial and spherical, gold minute markers. Perhaps the only downside of the watch is its thinness. The case is so slim that its relatively wide diameter gives it disc-like proportions on the wrist, especially with its narrow, long lugs. A subtle tribute Just two small details on the dial mark it out as the anniversary edition. One is engraved just above the tourbillon aperture, the number of the patent awarded to...

INTRODUCING: The Bremont Broadsword Jet Online Exclusive Time+Tide
Bremont Broadsword Jet Online Exclusive Nov 15, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Bremont Broadsword Jet Online Exclusive

​While there are plenty of military-inspired watches on the market these days, there’s only one brand that has a fully acknowledged direct partnership with a nation’s armed forces: Bremont. In recognition of being awarded a Silver Armed Forces Covenant for continued support of Her Majesty’s Armed Forces, the brand has released an online only, unique … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bremont Broadsword Jet Online Exclusive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS:  Get red-faced and bronze-cased with the William Wood Valiant Bronze Ruby Time+Tide
Nov 15, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Get red-faced and bronze-cased with the William Wood Valiant Bronze Ruby

Perhaps it’s something we take for granted, but one of the things we can always count on is the valour and bravery of our local fire departments. And this was the impetus behind the foundation of British watch brand William Wood. Founded by Jonny Garrett, whose grandfather William Wood was a decorated British Fire Service … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Get red-faced and bronze-cased with the William Wood Valiant Bronze Ruby appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Zenith x SJX Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip” SJX Watches
Zenith x SJX Chronomaster Revival Nov 15, 2021

Introducing the Zenith x SJX Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”

I’m pleased to announce the Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”, a collaborative edition loosely inspired by the disco-era El Primero G383, but reimagined with lots of lume – the dial is disco at night and also in the day. Update: Sold out, thank you for the interest. A brief background Zenith is a brand that appeals to me on an intellectual level because it’s historically significant for its chronometers and chronographs, but also on a personal level, simply because the brand makes watches that are both appealing and affordable. So it was a no-brainer for me to work with Zenith – since it meant I could create my fantasy El Primero. One of my favourite vintage Zenith models is the G383, a truly funky watch with a design that is unmistakably of the late 1960s and 1970s – the dial is over the top and truly disco. The El Primero G383 of 1969 But a one-for-one vintage remake has never interested me (plus I’m not a fan of the tiny lugs of the G383). So in early 2020, I got in touch with Romain Marietta, Zenith’s head of product development, and together we spent several months refining the concept, creating the Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”. (Full disclosure: The several months spent tweaking the idea produced more than one outstanding design, so a variant is a possibility.) At the same time, the Poker Chip will also be more accessible than our past editions. It’s as affordable as Zenith watches typically are – in fact it costs just 10% more t...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The new issue of NOW Magazine is available now (which is fitting…) Time+Tide
Nov 12, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The new issue of NOW Magazine is available now (which is fitting…)

Three years ago, on a sultry November evening in Melbourne, we threw a launch party for our first Issue of NOW Magazine. It was in a world – if you can put your best movie-trailer voice on for me – that knew nothing of pandemics, or social distancing. My memories of the night are crowded. … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The new issue of NOW Magazine is available now (which is fitting…) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Franc Vila Returns with the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero SJX Watches
Nov 11, 2021

Franc Vila Returns with the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero

A Spanish watch designer who founded one of the hot independent brands during the lead up to the last financial crisis, Franc Vila has made a quiet return with the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero. Turning away from the excessive style that characterised his original watches, Mr Vila now relies on the movement construction to create a distinctive aesthetic. Produced by an unnamed independent watchmaker, the FVF1 movement is open-worked to give it an airy feel. And it features a novel “piston” mechanism for the roller indicator for the day. Initial thoughts When I first encountered the FVF1 C2, it was interesting both from a visual and technical perspective. But I was sceptical as the brand has baggage. Mr Vila’s original brand went under after the finial crisis of 2007-2008. And while it was successful before it was not – at its peak the brand perhaps 500 watches a year – that brand’s watches were oddly styled, with a dial that resembled a monkey’s head (or a cobra according to the brand itself). But a decade has passed and Mr Vila’s latest creation is appealing. The styling found in his original watches has been dialled back, which is a good thing. The movement is open-worked and unusually constructed, giving it a distinctive look despite the simple outline of the case. At the same time, it has a novel mechanical function with the “piston” adjuster for the day indicator. And it is also finished attractively to a level similar to that of the Poincon de G...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Isotope Watches Hydrium Burnt Tangerine and Will Return are fresh, bold and unlike anything else Time+Tide
Isotope Watches Hydrium Burnt Tangerine Nov 8, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Isotope Watches Hydrium Burnt Tangerine and Will Return are fresh, bold and unlike anything else

NOTE: This article has been updated to reflect Isotope Watches recently making a change to the movement within both the Hydrium Burnt Tangerine and the Hydrium Will Return. I’m going to share with you a very unpopular opinion of mine. Limited Editions (LEs) absolutely have a place in the wristwatch market. When I say that, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Isotope Watches Hydrium Burnt Tangerine and Will Return are fresh, bold and unlike anything else appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Wristwatch No. 1 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nov 2, 2021

Up Close: Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Wristwatch No. 1

Widely regarded as important, the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch was a landmark when it was unveiled in 1992. The first wristwatch to incorporate a grande et petite sonnerie, widely regarded as the pinnacle of complications, the Grande Sonnerie is indeed a feat of miniaturisation, construction, and finishing. And now the very first example is slated to go under the hammer at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction. Initial thoughts Originally conceived as a homage of early 20th century Swiss watchmaking – the very sort of watches Mr Dufour worked on early in his career – the Grande Sonnerie revered today for many reasons, but it really is all about two accomplishments. The wristwatch (left), and its pocket watch counterpart One is miniaturisation – this was the first ever wristwatch grande sonnerie. Prior examples were all pocket watches and correspondingly large. And the second, arguably more important quality, is its movement finishing. Mr Dufour decorated each component of the movement exceedingly well. So well, in fact, that this is arguably better finished than even the finest examples of grande sonnerie pocket watches made by brands like Patek Philippe. In the metal the Grande Sonnerie wristwatch is eminently classical, and also fairly large at 41 mm in diameter. In fact, when it premiered in 1992 the Grande Sonnerie would have been massive – the typical men’s dress watch was barely 35 mm then. The Grande Sonnerie is almost a pocket watch with lugs...

VIDEO: IWC introduces two new stealth Top Gun Ceratanium Pilot’s watches Time+Tide
IWC introduces two new stealth Oct 27, 2021

VIDEO: IWC introduces two new stealth Top Gun Ceratanium Pilot’s watches

Today we are highway-ing into the danger zone, with two new complicated IWC Top Gun Ceratanium pilot’s watches that will take your breath away. OK, enough Top Gun puns. Focus Zach. IWC has brought forth two new stealth Ceratanium references: the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Ceratanium and the IWC Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Top Gun … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: IWC introduces two new stealth Top Gun Ceratanium Pilot’s watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Burgundy Red Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Burgundy Red Oct 26, 2021

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Burgundy Red Hands-on Review

Pros: Two watches in oneBurgundy Red dial and Rose gold case is a fantastic comboGood size Reverso may suit most wrists Cons: Some may find it to be expensiveLimited edition and boutique only – can be difficult to come byThe rectangular case may not suit all wrists Over All Rating: 8.6/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 9/10Design – 9/10Build Quality – 9/10 I’m quite sure that we all know the story of how the Reverso came about quite well by now. If not, where have you been the last couple of decades? Even though it has been around since 1931, the watch did disappear from the range for a little while, before being resurrected in 1972 by an Italian watch dealer, Giorgio Corvo, who bought up the remaining Reverso cases (around 200) and sold them all in Italy after fitting them with a movement. Convinced that the range will sell, he persuaded Jaeger-LeCoultre to revive the range in the 80s. Fast forward to 1991, on the 60th anniversary of the Reverso, various complications were introduced in the watch. This was no small feat as there is a lot less room inside the rectangular case, and therefore being able to squeeze in complications meant that Jaeger-LeCoultre has had to overcome many obstacles. We may take a two-faced Reverso for granted these days, but even that requires years of development to achieve. This brings us to the watch today, one of the 90th-anniversary models, and quite possibly one of the prettiest, most elegant and stunning Reverso ever to g...

Introducing the Kudoke 2 “Zodiac” – SJX Edition Two SJX Watches
Zodiac – SJX Edition Oct 25, 2021

Introducing the Kudoke 2 “Zodiac” – SJX Edition Two

Like the recent Habring² Erwin “Star”, the Kudoke 2 “Zodiac” was conceived to encapsulate the brand’s work while being different enough to stand apart from its other watches. Limited to 21 pieces (and one prototype), the Zodiac is the first watch in the brand’s Handwerk collection that is fully engraved on the front and back – entirely hand engraved in fact, with the only machine engraving on the watch being the markings on the rim of the case back. Origins This started with the simple fact that I was impressed with the Kudoke 2 when I first saw it in 2019. The watch also won the Petite Aiguille prize at the year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). Equally important was the fact that I appreciate the specialised, artisanal nature of the Dresden-based brand, which is essentially a husband-and-wife enterprise led by by Stefan and Ev Kudoke. That said, I did wish the dial of the Kudoke 2 had more detail. And at the same time, Kudoke historically specialised in hand-engraved movements, which made it was obvious the solution was to enhance the Kudoke 2 with engraved decoration. “Kudoke” is hand engraved on the applied plaque whereas on the standard model it is machine engraved The starting point of the Zodiac was the day-and-night indicator on the standard Kudoke 2 – it is my favourite element and had to be retained. And its celestial-Art Deco would influence the rest of the Zodiac’s design. The day and night scale with a tiny crescent at 12 ...

Swatch Unveils the Halloween Capsule Collection SJX Watches
Swatch Oct 25, 2021

Swatch Unveils the Halloween Capsule Collection

Thematic capsule collections are a Swatch favourite, with recent launches including watches dedicated to the latest James Bond film and NASA. With hyper-efficient, automated manufacturing and simply constructed watches, Swatch is able to keep current with its thematic collections. And now with Halloween around the corner, Swatch has just taken the covers off the line up dedicated to the ghoulish celebration – the Halloween Capsule Collection, made up of a pair of watches that are glow-in-the-dark and appear entirely different from day to night. Your Time is Coming (left), and Run But You Can’t Hide Initial thoughts Glow-in-the-dark watches are cool because they light up in the dark. Swatch takes the concept and goes big with the Halloween pair – the watches are a bold 47 mm in diameter and matched with straps that are entirely “lumed”. The Halloween pair also stand out for the contrast between their day and night looks, a characteristic that makes them all the more striking and attractive. During the day, the dials are surprisingly low-key, with the faces barely visible. The faces on the dials only reveal themselves at night And both watches are clearly all about design. The dials are both smartly streamlined, with as few time-telling elements as possible – there are neither hours markers nor a date, or even a seconds hand Even the hands are thin and skeletonised. The hands do the job, but are not quite as inventive as the floating, “ghost” hands found i...

HANDS-ON: The Cartier Tank Must Collection offers classic design at an accessible price Time+Tide
Cartier Tank Must Collection offers Oct 24, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Cartier Tank Must Collection offers classic design at an accessible price

The quartz crisis is often spoken about with abject horror, and for good reason. Japanese quartz watches were more accurate, reliable, and cheaper than Swiss mechanicals, so why would anyone buy an old-fashioned and outdated piece of technology? Given that Switzerland controlled over half of the world’s mechanical watch industry after the second world war, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Cartier Tank Must Collection offers classic design at an accessible price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Original Sinn – A close encounter with the legendary U1 dive watch Time+Tide
Sinn Oct 11, 2021

Original Sinn – A close encounter with the legendary U1 dive watch

What is probably the most important and significant Sinn U1 dive watch has surfaced in Wellington, New Zealand. The Sinn U1 is one of the most recognisable and respected dive watches available today.  With its almost Bauhaus utilitarian dial, iconic syringe hands and bead-blasted Tegiment Submarine Steel case, this watch is no pretender, flexing in … ContinuedThe post Original Sinn – A close encounter with the legendary U1 dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Oct 7, 2021

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater

Debuted exactly 90 years ago a sports watch, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is famous for its swivelling case that was meant to protect the crystal. But in the modern day, the Reverso has paradoxically evolved into brand’s signature dress watch, as well as a canvas for assorted complications and artisanal decoration. The latest 90th anniversary model falls into the former category – the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater is highly complicated, with its mechanics visible on two open-worked faces: the chiming mechanism revealed on the front and the base movement on the reverse. The front (left) with the repeater revealed, and the back showing the hand-wind calibre Initial thoughts The Reverso Tribute Repeater is an example of smart engineering and design, executed in a way that is possible only with the Reverso’s two faces. Notably, doing away with a solid dial is actually a technical necessity (more on that later), rather than mere vanity, but it leaves the watch looking as impressively complicated as it is. Though a modular repeater, its repeating mechanism is no ordinary example, but instead incorporates two proprietary innovations that compound to produce louder chimes, namely the extra-large hammers and the gongs that are located as close to the wearer as possible – they are attached onto the front crystal, hence the absence of the dial. Upon activation, the slider on the left winds up the mainspring at six o’clock, which unwinds to power the repeater That said, t...

Type Casting: Comparing The Breguet Type XX And Type XXI Chronographs Hodinkee
Breguet Oct 3, 2021

Type Casting: Comparing The Breguet Type XX And Type XXI Chronographs

The Type XX and Type XXI chronographs don’t seem to get quite as much attention as you would think they’d get, at least in the USA, where the world of pilot’s chronographs skews much more heavily towards companies like IWC, Omega, and Breitling. Maybe part of the reason for that is that when you think of tool watches, you might think of an awful lot of companies but Breguet just isn’t one of them – tourbillons, certainly, and a history of making aesthetically irreproachable, often complicated, and very elegant watches from the end of the 18th century right down until the present day, but not tool watches as such. And yet, aviation is perhaps just as important a part of the Breguet family’s history as watchmaking, with the Type XX and XXI chronographs representing one of the most important aspects of the inventiveness that characterized Abraham Louis Breguet and his descendants.

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical and Solar Prospex Chronographs Time+Tide
Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical Sep 30, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical and Solar Prospex Chronographs

Seiko has a rich and ever-evolving tradition of sports timing and chronometry. Known for historically frightening the Swiss in observatory competitions and being a proud timing partner for events such as the Olympic Games, Seiko has always been motivated by accuracy – a pillar of many of their designs. Today the brand, in a continuing … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical and Solar Prospex Chronographs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Watches Owned by Eric Clapton and Hiroshi Fujiwara at Sotheby’s SJX Watches
Patek Philippe chronographs commissioned Sep 29, 2021

Highlights: Watches Owned by Eric Clapton and Hiroshi Fujiwara at Sotheby’s

Sotheby’s upcoming Hong Kong auction is a major event – 266 lots is sizeable – but boasts a surprising lineup of historically significant watches in a variety of genres, from establishment brands to independent watchmaking (including a dozen F.P. Journe), and even museum-quality, enamelled automata. Now we turn to an unusual group of watches from the collections of two well-known watch collectors: musician Eric Clapton and Japanese streetwear guru Hiroshi Fujiwara (who last year designed a watch for TAG Heuer). The all important name on the certificate The ex-Clapton watches have been consigned by the current owners, who number just two. The first consigned all the Rolex sports watches, which he bought direct from Mr Clapton. And the second is a prominent collector from the Southern Hemisphere who consigned the trio of custom-dial Patek Philippe chronographs commissioned by Mr Clapton, a set of watches the owner accumulated primarily at auction. On the other hand, the watches from Mr Fujiwara’s collection come from the man himself. Mr Fujiwara consigned three watches, including a matched pair of ref. 5970 with “Tiffany” dials. We round up eight highlights from these celebrity-owned offerings. The full catalogue and sale registration are available on Sothebys.com. The ex-Clapton Often spotted wearing notable watches, modern and vintage, Eric Clapton has long been known to be a watch aficionado (and also an accomplished collector of Ferrari). Mr Clapton has ...

One Hundred and Eighty Days with the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin SJX Watches
Glashütte Original has Sep 27, 2021

One Hundred and Eighty Days with the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin

A. Lange & Söhne introduced the Saxonia Thin 37 at SIHH 2016 as the entry-level model in its collection. But “entry level” is relative at Lange, a brand that famously applies the same rigorous standards of production and finishing to all its watches, from the Saxonia Thin to the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar that retails for more than US$300,000. For the purpose of this review, I will put this reputation to the test by examining each element of the watch in detail, and share my impressions of the ownership experience. Glashüttenomics Though owned by Swiss luxury conglomerate Richemont – which owns over two dozen brands including Cartier, IWC, and Panerai – Lange remains a boutique outfit with an annual output of about 4,500 watches, and a maximum production capacity of about 5,500 watches. This is a fraction of competitors like Audemars Piguet at about 45,000 watches per year, and Patek Philippe, where the figure is over 60,000. While production volume is small, Lange is the largest employer in Glashütte, a small town with a population of about 8,000. Lange employs about 600 people at its Glashütte campus, though some commute in from the surrounding region, including the city of Dresden. This headcount is primarily devoted to watchmaking, since Lange relocated its marketing department to Berlin in 2017. For comparison, Glashütte Original has a similar number of employees in Glashütte, while producing about 13,000 watches per year, or about three ti...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Perezcope Holmes and the case of the Franken Paul Newman Daytona Time+Tide
Sep 24, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Perezcope Holmes and the case of the Franken Paul Newman Daytona

As Will Ferrell’s character Jacobim Mugatu in Zoolander would say about Hansel, vintage watches are “so hot right now”. Many collectors naturally have a greater appreciation for vintage pieces – watches that inspire many of the modern re-interpretations we see throughout the marketplace today. I read once that vintage watch dealer Matthew Bain remembers when … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Perezcope Holmes and the case of the Franken Paul Newman Daytona appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Forget Flight of the Conchords, here comes Zach & Mike with their 1st series, ‘Zach Drops Mike’ Time+Tide
Sep 17, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Forget Flight of the Conchords, here comes Zach & Mike with their 1st series, ‘Zach Drops Mike’

Hello, friends! It’s Andrew here, even though the author of this Wind Down probably says Zach. I’m jumping in at the top of the weekly-watch-related-wrap-we-all-wait-for, to announce that the world has a peppy new power duo to contend with. Step off Flight of the Conchords, there’s a box-fresh creative couple of blokes ready to walk … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Forget Flight of the Conchords, here comes Zach & Mike with their 1st series, ‘Zach Drops Mike’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ulysse Nardin Introduces Classico The Hour Glass Ginza 25th Anniversary SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Sep 17, 2021

Ulysse Nardin Introduces Classico The Hour Glass Ginza 25th Anniversary

A mainstay of the luxury-watch scene in Tokyo for a quarter century, The Hour Glass in Ginza is the only Japanese outpost of the Singapore-based watch retailer. Led since its opening by watch veteran Atsushi Momoi, the store in the posh shopping district recently reopened after a makeover, just in time for its 25th anniversary. To mark the occasion, the store commissioned a pair of limited-edition models, including the Ulysse Nardin Classico The Hour Glass Ginza 25th Anniversary (and the other a Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon in platinum). The newly-revamped store in Ginza Initial thoughts Unsurprisingly given the experience of Mr Momoi and his team, the Ginza anniversary edition has an appealing, classical aesthetic characterised by a strong attention to detail. In fact, despite its simplicity, the dial is replete with elegant, smart details. One of the most subtle is the fact that “Swiss made” sits on the minute track, streamlining the dial. And it goes without saying the date has been removed. And illustrating the discretion often prized by Japanese clientele, the most expensive upgrade to the watch is hidden – the 22k gold rotor on the back. Sophisticated, classical style While UN typically favours Roman numerals on its watches, the Ginza anniversary edition is executed in a style that is decidedly classical, reflecting the taste of the Japanese consumer. The dial is “salmon” in tone and finished with a radial guilloche, with applied Breguet n...

Highlights: IWC Big Pilots in Singapore SJX Watches
IWC Big Pilots Sep 17, 2021

Highlights: IWC Big Pilots in Singapore

Fully booked before it even opened, the IWC Big Pilot Exhibition in Singapore recently closed its doors and the 31 Big Pilot’s Watches that were on show have returned home to the IWC Museum in Schaffhausen. But for those who missed the show, we round up some of the historically significant examples that were on displayed. The lineup naturally includes the very first Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 5002, and also the ultra-rare Markus Bühler “Turbine” ref. 5003. (And the Big Pilot Roadshow will happen in various cities in the United States starting September; details at the end of this article.) 2002 – Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 5002 The modern-day Big Pilot can be traced back to the gigantic beobachtungsuhr (or”B-uhr” for short) that IWC supplied to the German air force in 1940. The one that started it all was the Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 500201 (widely known as the ref. 5002) that debuted at Baselworld in 2002. Codenamed “Big Pilot’s Watch – Mark XXI” while in development, the Big Pilot was due in part to the commercial success of the compact Mark 12 pilot’s watch. At the same time, it was also devised as a platform for the recently-launched, seven-day automatic cal. 5000, a movement large enough that the resulting pilot’s watch had to be, well, big. And big it was, though the ref. 5002 was smaller than the second world war original that was 55 mm. Still it retained many of the elements that defined the vintage B-uhr – onion crown, Arabic numerals, ...