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All Rolex Day-Date References (President) Rolex

Every Rolex Day-Date "President": 1803, 18038, 18238, 118238, Day-Date 40 (228xxx), Day-Date 36 (128xxx).

VIDEO: The Mido Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition with a fresh silver dial and turquoise bezel Time+Tide
Mido Sep 14, 2021

VIDEO: The Mido Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition with a fresh silver dial and turquoise bezel

The dive watch category is among the most popular, if not the most popular category, with buyers of today. It’s quite a saturated segment, with many of the novelties inevitably sharing recycled design cues necessary for a diver. So, when a dive watch is released with a standout aesthetic it is worth taking notice – … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Mido Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition with a fresh silver dial and turquoise bezel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Supersonnerie in Titanium SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Sep 14, 2021

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Supersonnerie in Titanium

First introduced as a handful of limited editions (including for Japanese retailer Yoshida), the minute repeating, luxury-sports watch has finally become a permanent addition to the Audemars Piguet catalogue with the Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie in Titanium. Despite its low-key looks, a tone-on-tone palette of a smoked, grey dial and brushed titanium case, the Royal Oak repeater  is loud – literally – thanks to the patented Supersonnerie system within, which produces chimes that are clearer and louder than those of a traditional striking wristwatch. Initial thoughts The superb acoustics are unquestionably the focal point of the latest from Audemars Piguet (AP) – it is undeniably a successful striking complication thanks to the clever case (we explained the Supersonnerie in an earlier story). But the design of the Royal Oak repeater is arguably near perfect and worth a leading mention. At a glance the repeater looks very much like a typical Royal Oak, but the dial layout gives it perhaps the most classical face amongst its siblings. It has no date, and instead a small seconds at six to replace the central seconds found on most Royal Oak models. The seconds-at-six layout is typical of a dress watch, and it isn’t special per se, but it is unique for a Royal Oak, which was after all designed as a sports watch. By way of its thinness (at least in its original ref. 5402 “Jumbo” guise), the Royal Oak has always retained an elegant air that resonates wit...

In-Depth: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar (sans Tourbillon) SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5236P cost about Sep 8, 2021

In-Depth: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar (sans Tourbillon)

Launched earlier this year as its new flagship perpetual calendar wristwatch (replacing the venerable Langematik Perpetual), the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar (L1 QP) appears to be a simplified version of the same watch with a tourbillon from 2012. But it is actually entirely different. Though the L021.3 inside the L1 QP borrows from the architecture of an existing calibre, it has been extensively reengineered and substantially upgraded, as is the norm for Lange. And despite the new mechanics, the L1 QP retains the assuringly familiar face of the Lange 1. Initial thoughts The L1 QP was long awaited for the simple reason that is makes a good idea – a calendar cleverly displayed in the distinctive layout of the Lange 1 dial – far more affordable than it was. When it was first launched, it was combined with a tourbillon, which lifted the price to well over US$300,000. Now the same calendar layout is available in a watch priced at about US$100,000. That’s still a lot of money, but within the ballpark for a perpetual calendar from a high-end brand. Comparable watches like the recent Patek Philippe ref. 5236P cost about the same. So price wise, the L1 QP is acceptable, even reasonable value, because it is an excellent perpetual calendar. The display is unique, but strongly functional. The crucial bits of information, namely date and month, are easily readable. Add to that the trademark, asymmetric layout of the Lange 1, and the result is a display that excels in both clarit...

A Brief History of the IWC Pilot’s Watch SJX Watches
IWC Pilot’s Watch One Sep 6, 2021

A Brief History of the IWC Pilot’s Watch

One of IWC’s signature wristwatch lines – the other being the Portugieser – is the Pilot’s Watch, a collection descended from the timepieces dating to the earliest days of aviation. Popular for its functional styling and general affordability, the Pilot’s Watch collection is regularly updated – IWC revamped the range in 2016, 2019, and again this year – and diverse. There are two threads running through IWC’s modern-day Pilot’s Watch collection that connect to the brand’s historical aviator’s watches: the smaller “Mark” watches typically associated with the British Royal Air Force (RAF) and the oversized “B-Uhr” made for the German air force of the Second World War. Big pilot and small pilot – Mark IX and B-uhr The origins IWC’s history in aviator’s watches started the Special Pilot’s Watch ref. 436, now widely known as the “Mark IX”. Conceived by the two sons of Ernst Jakob Homberger, the then-owner of IWC, the Mark IX was unveiled in 1936. Homberger’s sons were both licensed pilots and understood the features required for good pilot’s watch, resulting in style that is now synonymous with the pilot’s watch genre. IWC was not the only maker of pilot’s watches during the period, though it was arguably the most successful since it continued to be a leading supplier of aviator’s timepieces for the next two decades. The Mark IX had a 38 mm case – extraordinarily oversized in an era when the standard man’s watch was a...

IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Laureus Edition 2021 in Blue Ceramic SJX Watches
IWC Introduces Sep 2, 2021

IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Laureus Edition 2021 in Blue Ceramic

Long an annual tradition for IWC – now in its 15th consecutive year in fact – the “Laureus Sport for Good” edition is back once again in its usual blue livery that echoes the emblem of the eponymous charity with the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Edition ‘Laureus Sport for Good’. Each annual Laureus edition sees IWC facelift one of its watches, from the classical Portofino to the sporty Pilot’s Watch, typically in a simple fashion with the addition of a blue dial – good enough but not quite great. This year the brand is doing something a bit more special with its entry-level aviator’s watch, which gets a blue ceramic case in a first for the brand. Initial thoughts As is typical of the IWC Pilot’s Watch, the new Laureus edition is simple, coherent and appealing. But it offers a bit more with the tone-on-tone case and dial, making it slightly more special than the standard Pilot’s Watches, or even past Laureus editions. Though IWC used a similar formula for the Laureus edition of two years ago – that had a polished, black ceramic case instead – the latest edition is tangibly better. For one, a blue ceramic case is rare, having been utilised by only a handful of watchmakers, and it also looks pretty cool. At the same time, the watch has been upgraded in technical terms. It houses the new, five-day cal. 32111, which is derived from the cal. 32115 first seen in the ultra-shock resistance Big Pilot XPL. Both are in turn modified versions of the cal. 32...

Czapek Introduces the Antarctique Rattrapante SJX Watches
Czapek Introduces Sep 1, 2021

Czapek Introduces the Antarctique Rattrapante

Czapek & Cie unveiled the Antarctique a year ago, its first foray into the popular category of luxury-sports watches. While the Antarctique had many of the elements synonymous with a luxury-sports watch, namely a steel case, blue dial, and integrated bracelet, it lacked what is arguably the signature element of Czapek’s design DNA – a pair of sub-dials at five and seven. Just unveiled at Geneva Watch Days, the followup to the original model combines a light touch of high horology with styling more faithful to the brand’s origins – the Antarctique Rattrapante, which is also the brand’s first split-seconds chronograph. Initial thoughts At a glance, the Antarctique Rattrapante is a noble effort in fusing the brand’s signature look with a modern, open-worked dial. Aesthetically, the design works well. The concept of having the entire split-seconds chronograph module visible on the dial creates an intricate view of the mechanics that would normally be hidden. And the mechanics are interesting, as the look is the result of substantial contortions to lower the sub-dials while ensuring they do not run into the gear train for the central hands. Notably, the repositioning was done with extra wheels – the chronograph mechanism actually has the registers in their traditional three and nine positions. At its core however, the chronograph remains a traditional, mono-pusher mechanism, albeit one that’s modular. The split-seconds mechanism does lack a key feature found ...

Follow us at Geneva Watch Days 2021, starting right now with MB&F; madness and Moser magic Time+Tide
MB&F; Aug 31, 2021

Follow us at Geneva Watch Days 2021, starting right now with MB&F; madness and Moser magic

At first it was so strange. And it had the drama, the inevitability, of a tipping point being reached. SIHH’s changed name. Basel stumbled, fell, then disintegrated into dust. COVID-19 hit, everything stopped. Then out of these ashes, Geneva Watch Days 2020 emerged. I was unable to go, along with anyone from our Australian team, … ContinuedThe post Follow us at Geneva Watch Days 2021, starting right now with MB&F; madness and Moser magic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bulgari Revives the Gerald Genta Retro Disney Mickey Mouse SJX Watches
Bulgari Revives Aug 30, 2021

Bulgari Revives the Gerald Genta Retro Disney Mickey Mouse

Having tested the market with a handful of Gerald Genta-branded limited editions, Bulgari has just revealed during Geneva Watch Days 2021 that the Genta name will be revived. And the inaugural model for that venture is the Gerald Genta Arena Retrograde Mickey Mouse, a Disney-themed watch that harks back to the 1990s Fantasy watches of Gerald Genta. Initial thoughts The commercial opportunity with the Gerald Genta name has been obvious for several years, given the enduring popularity of a narrow set of his designs, namely the 1970s sports watches like the Royal Oak and the later Fantasy watches with Disney characters, all of which sell for handsome sums on the secondary market. While all the 1970s sports watch belong to the brands that Genta designed them for, Bulgari does have the Octo, which was created long after Genta himself left the brand. And now Bulgari has resurrected the Arena Retro Mickey Mouse. Like the Octo, the Arena case was created after Genta departed the namesake company when Bulgari acquired it, but the new Mickey Mouse Retro successfully channels the spirit of the 1990s originals in style and complication. And in terms of mechanics, it’s also more sophisticated than the originals, in that it is powered by a variant of the in-house Bulgari BVL 191 “Solotempo” calibre, instead of the ETA movements found in the originals. The Mickey Mouse reissue, however, does come at a steepish price of about US$17,500. That’s slightly more than the most desirab...

Greubel Forsey Unveils the GMT Earth Final Edition Titanium SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Unveils Aug 30, 2021

Greubel Forsey Unveils the GMT Earth Final Edition Titanium

The GMT and tourbillon have long been a favourite combination at Greubel Forsey, but the watchmaker is bringing the combo to an end – at least in its current form – with the GMT Earth Final Edition. Greubel Forsey (GF) is closing the model’s run with a version in titanium, matched with an all-black palette, giving it a look and feel that’s sportier than the earlier GMT Earth models, which were primarily cased in precious metals. Initial thoughts GF has offered a variety of models with a GMT complication, with each having being iterated several times in small runs. But the GMT Earth has always stood out for its simplicity – compared with the model boasting twin double-axis tourbillons for instance – yet it packs in all the defining features of the brand’s travel-time watch, such as a fully-visible rotating globe that indicates day or night around the world and of course the 24-second, inclined tourbillon. That makes it ideal for someone who wants the essence of a GF travel watch in a simple (relatively speaking) package. And the GMT Earth Final Edition the coolest looking of the bunch, with a dark dial that goes well with the greyish titanium case. It’s a good look that’s gives the watch a more edgy, futuristic design, setting it apart from the typical GF. And the darker colours should leave the 45.5 mm case appearing smaller. Unlike other ultra high-end sport(y) watches, such as those from Richard Mille, GF is slightly restrained in terms of aesthetic...

The Bulgari Aluminium GMT is the ultimate travel-cool watch for your next summer holiday Time+Tide
Bulgari Aluminium GMT Aug 26, 2021

The Bulgari Aluminium GMT is the ultimate travel-cool watch for your next summer holiday

I have a secret crush and an unrequited love for metal. Not the usual dazzle of gold or techy titanium, but another silk surfaced alloy, the unusual feel of aluminium. This time not heavy – like the music blasting me through gym time in my headphones, this is oh so light. I still remember that … ContinuedThe post The Bulgari Aluminium GMT is the ultimate travel-cool watch for your next summer holiday appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SLGA007 140th Anniversary Limited Edition Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGA007 140th Anniversary Limited Aug 24, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SLGA007 140th Anniversary Limited Edition

Recently we covered the Grand Seiko SBGY007, its icy blue dial inspired by the frozen waters of Lake Suwa. Its blue hue could only be described as subtle, the blue only emboldening itself under the right light. Today, however, the brand has introduced yet another limited-edition novelty in honour of the 140th Anniversary of Seiko’s … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SLGA007 140th Anniversary Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Mumm RSRV R. Lalou 2006 Champagne: A Revelation (With Or Without Usain Bolt) Quill & Pad
Aug 23, 2021

Mumm RSRV R. Lalou 2006 Champagne: A Revelation (With Or Without Usain Bolt)

Mumm Champagne has wonderful history, but then for a period it seemed to descend into little more than a discount producer. More recently, there appeared to be a serious intent to return to the glory days when this house was seen as one of the greats. Ken Gargett thinks that Mumm's RSRV R. Lalou 2006 is a revelation. Rich and complex with honeycomb notes and some butterscotch. Great length. Finely balanced.

Hanhart Introduces the Flieger Friday Edition SJX Watches
Aug 20, 2021

Hanhart Introduces the Flieger Friday Edition

Historically the world’s leading producer of mechanical stopwatches – the sort once standard issue at athletic meets – Hanhart has shifted its focus to sports chronographs in recent years. Most of them are based on the brand’s vintage watches from the early- to mid- 20th century, especially the distinctive pilot’s chronographs it supplied to the German air force. While some of its offerings are remakes, the brand’s latest is an overtly modern take on the 1930s pilot’s chronograph. The #FliegerFriday Edition combines a black-coated steel case with a dark blue dial as well as the brand’s trademark red reset pusher. With the origins of the design are vintage, the Flieger Friday Edition has a calculated casual style that stems from its inspiration – the social media hashtag #FliegerFriday, which refers to wearing a pilot’s watch over the weekend. Initial thoughts Hanhart is not short of vintage remakes – usually executed with signature elements like a red pusher or knurled bezel – so the modern style of the Flieger Friday Edition is unusual and welcome. Admittedly the blue-dial sports chronograph formula is well used, but here it’s done with a little more novelty by pairing the dial with a steel case coated in black diamond-like-carbon (DLC). Add to that the splash of red, and the result is a striking watch that does live up to the hashtag’s basis of a fun, weekend watch. The watch is reasonably priced at US$2,700, which is not much more than the...

OPINION: Flaunting the watch you’ve just given your partner on social media makes you look like a jerk Time+Tide
Patek Philippe boutique Aug 13, 2021

OPINION: Flaunting the watch you’ve just given your partner on social media makes you look like a jerk

To celebrate the birthday of his fiancee, Dee Devlin, Conor McGregor recently posted an Instagram snap of the couple inside a Patek Philippe boutique. On his partner’s wrist, conspicuously pointed at the camera, was a diamond-set Aquanaut Luce that the caption implied was a birthday gift. This was a fairly standard flex for McGregor, a … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Flaunting the watch you’ve just given your partner on social media makes you look like a jerk appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Hey brands, put all the spec cards on the table or your bluff will get called Time+Tide
Aug 12, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Hey brands, put all the spec cards on the table or your bluff will get called

Earlier this week, the watch community joined the author of this piece in expressing their disdain when a particular watch brand, to put it nicely, was not forthcoming about what was powering their new novelty. In short, there are accusations the brand’s purported “in-house movement” on a particular model was, in fact, made by ETA … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Hey brands, put all the spec cards on the table or your bluff will get called appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Patty Mills reflects on his NBA career, the Olympics and the importance of managing time Time+Tide
Aug 11, 2021

VIDEO: Patty Mills reflects on his NBA career, the Olympics and the importance of managing time

Locally known as “the Boomers”, the Australian basketball team had never won a medal in international basketball. They’d suffered five losses in Olympic semi-finals, four in Olympic bronze medal matches and one in a World Cup bronze medal match. That was until last Saturday night when they beat Slovenia 107-93 to clinch the Olympic bronze. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Patty Mills reflects on his NBA career, the Olympics and the importance of managing time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 SJX Watches
Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Aug 9, 2021

Up Close: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25

Twenty-five years ago Chopard debuted the L.U.C line alongside its then-new Fleurier manufacture. Namely after the initials of its founder, the L.U.C range is primarily composed of classically-styled watches with notably fine in-house movements. To mark the 25th anniversary of L.U.C, Chopard has unveiled a classically-styled watch with notably fine in-house movement, the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25. Though the Quattro Spirit 25 is the brand’s first-ever jump hour wristwatch, it is powered by the longstanding eight-day, hand-wind movement that’s almost as old as the L.U.C line itself. Initial thoughts In the hand, the Quattro Spirit 25 instantly feels like a high quality watch. As with most L.U.C watches, the fit and finish is top class. But as is also typical for many L.U.C watches, the design is good, but not quite great. To be fair, the Quattro Spirit 25 is largely appealing, save for the shape of the lugs. Though moderately sized, the watch feels relatively tall, in part due to the smallish diameter of 40 mm. The convex, vertical case dials and short lugs also contribute to the perception of size. On the subject of the lugs, they are the only major element of the watch I would change. They short, narrow, and don’t quite match the elegant style of the watch. The dial, on the other hand, is best described as functional elegance. Bright white and expansive, the dial is clean and perhaps a bit too stark, but it is strongly legible. At the same time, the quality of the en...

Tutima Introduces the M2 Seven Seas S SJX Watches
Tutima Jul 30, 2021

Tutima Introduces the M2 Seven Seas S

Historically a supplier of timepieces to the German military and police, Tutima now offers a broad line of “tool” watches. The latest from the Glashütte-based brand is the M2 Seven Seas S, the first version of its dive watch with a steel case (prior models are all titanium). Initial thoughts Tutima’s M2 line of sports watches are all big and solid, with chunky but streamlined cases modelled on the ref. 798 chronograph the brand once supplied to the German military. While simple, they are effective tool watches. The Seven Seas S sticks to the same formula, except in steel. That means it’s heavier, which might not be for everyone given the size. But the steel has the upside of a brushed finished with some polished accents, giving the case and bracelet a more varied look than the uniform sandblasted finish of the titanium model. But the best thing about the Seven Seas S is the version with a yellow dégradé dial, which darkens to a green-black at its edges. It’s an unusual and striking finish that sets the Seven Seas S apart from most of the competition. The only drawback with the new Seven Seas is the ETA 2824 inside. It’s robust and easy to service, but has a short power reserve of just 38 hours, which means it’ll probably stop if off the wrist for more than a day. Power reserves of 50 to 70 hours are now the industry norm, even at the entry level, so this disadvantages the Seven Seas. The Seven Seas S is relatively affordable and fairly competitively price...

Zenith And Swiss Open Gstaad: Reaching For Tennis Stars With The Chronomaster Sport And Chronomaster Original Quill & Pad
Zenith Jul 28, 2021

Zenith And Swiss Open Gstaad: Reaching For Tennis Stars With The Chronomaster Sport And Chronomaster Original

As Zenith is a sponsor of the Swiss Open in Gstaad, Elizabeth Doerr had the opportunity to attend the 2021 edition where she handled a number of Zenith’s most recent watch releases, falling in love with two in particular: the new Chronomaster Original and Chronomaster Sport Gold, both powered by the legendary (and now updated) El Primero chronograph movement.