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Ulysse Nardin Introduces the UFO Table Clock SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces Apr 8, 2021

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the UFO Table Clock

Having made a name for itself in the early 20th century for its marine chronometers, Ulysse Nardin revisits its roots with the UFO, an intriguing table clock conceived to mark the brand’s 175th anniversary. Described as a “swinging mechanical depiction of the movement of the waves”, the UFO is as an avant-garde reinterpretation of the marine chronometer. It’s essentially a round-bottomed doll that will wobble and sway but never topple over, except it contains an impressive mechanical movement with a 365-day power reserve. Traditionally known for largely classical designs with the occasional twist, such as the Marine Torpilleur, Ulysse Nardin has been gravitating towards more boldly modern designs in recent years, exemplified by the Blast Tourbillon and the Freak X Silicium Marquetry. That experimental approach is now applied to the table clock in a collaboration with clock specialist L’Epée 1839, the supplier of choice for many watchmakers looking to get into exotic clocks. Initial thoughts Inspired by the oceans, the UFO sways when nudged, but remains upright thanks to a weighted base, creating an engaging display of timekeeping. And the UFO is practical as well, featuring three clock faces that can be set to different time zones, or to mirror each other. Granted, the UFO will have a very niche appeal, considering it’s a table clock with a complex design matched by a high price tag. Costing a whopping US$41,100, the UFO is almost double the price of L’Epé...

Auricoste Revives the Military-Issue Type 20 Flyback Chronograph SJX Watches
Breguet Mar 26, 2021

Auricoste Revives the Military-Issue Type 20 Flyback Chronograph

Auricoste was founded in 1854 to make marine chronometers, but is best known for the Type 20 chronographs supplied to the French military in the 1950s. The brand was one of a handful that produced watches according to the “Type 20” military specification for flyback chronographs, alongside Dodane, Vixa, and most famously, Breguet. Now Auricoste has revived the military chronograph with help from vintage watch expert Fabrice Gueroux as the Flymaster Type 20. Initial thoughts Auricoste is historically significant, as far as military chronographs go – the vintage-original Type 20 is a valuable watch – though it has fallen off the radar of most watch enthusiasts today. With the Flymaster Type 20, Auricoste is playing to its strengths. The Flymaster Type 20 should appeal to those looking for a military-inspired pilot’s chronograph. As it is made by one of the original manufacturers of Type 20 watches, the Flymaster Type 20 has added historical provenance as compared to comparably priced alternatives that share a similar aesthetic. And at 3,450 €, or about US$4,100, the watch is significantly more affordable than Breguet’s Type 20, or even Zenith’s Pilot Type 20 watches. It is also a limited edition of 299 pieces, which makes its value proposition even more attractive. Faithful re-issue Auricoste and Mr Gueroux took pains to ensure that the Flymaster Type 20 retains much of the vintage original’s DNA. The Flymaster is almost a dead ringer for the original, ...

Omega Ups the Retro with the New Seamaster 300 SJX Watches
Omega Ups Mar 23, 2021

Omega Ups the Retro with the New Seamaster 300

Introduced in 1957 alongside the Railmaster and Speedmaster as part of the trilogy of “Professional” watches for air, land, and sea, the original Seamaster 300 was Omega’s first true dive watch. Even though the Seamaster Diver now wears the mantle of the brand’s highest-spec dive watch, the vintage-inspired Seamaster 300 stands apart in Omega’s crowded catalogue with its retro aesthetic. For 2021, Omega doubles down on the vintage styling with a facelifted Seamaster 300 that’s closer to the look of the 1950s original. The new model will be available in steel, as well as the unusual proprietary alloy of Bronze Gold. A 1950s brochure for the original trilogy Initial thoughts When I first saw pictures of the new Seamaster 300, my immediate thought: “Absolutely beautiful”. I’ve always had a soft spot for the Seamaster 300, despite it being less of a “professional” watch than the Seamaster Diver. I’m a fan of its vintage aesthetic, especially how it harks back to an important era in Omega history. The new Seamaster 300, with its subtle but significant improvements, is undoubtedly the best version yet (albeit only the second iteration). Compared to its predecessor, the new model has a cleaner, more coherent design. That being said, the abundant faux-aged Super-Luminova is a bit affected. The new Seamaster 300 is being launched in a limited number of options, steel with a blue or black dial, along with the Bronze Gold model. The steel models are also ava...

VIDEO: The Eugen Wegner One delivers a magnificent lacquer dial at a bafflingly good price Time+Tide
Dec 10, 2020

VIDEO: The Eugen Wegner One delivers a magnificent lacquer dial at a bafflingly good price

It isn’t an uncommon occurrence for old watch brands to be revived. But for a brand to be resuscitated by the great-great-grandson of the founder is a rarer event. With Eugen Wegner, that’s exactly what happened. The brand was founded way back in 1897 in Gdańsk, Poland, and became successful selling pocket watches and marine … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Eugen Wegner One delivers a magnificent lacquer dial at a bafflingly good price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Mugger sentenced to 9 years in prison for stealing £692K RM 69 Erotic Watch Time+Tide
Richard Mille Dec 1, 2020

Mugger sentenced to 9 years in prison for stealing £692K RM 69 Erotic Watch

Editor’s note: I remember it like it was yesterday. I was standing next to a stripper pole with a lovely girl named Agnes, who toured me through all the functions of the brand new RM 69 random-phrase-generating watch by Richard Mille. We then tried it out, so to speak. Lots of fun. But is it … ContinuedThe post Mugger sentenced to 9 years in prison for stealing £692K RM 69 Erotic Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The elegance and nuance of the IWC Portugieser 2020 Collection in the metal Time+Tide
IWC Portugieser 2020 Collection Nov 23, 2020

HANDS-ON: The elegance and nuance of the IWC Portugieser 2020 Collection in the metal

Earlier this year, in April, the IWC Portugieser 2020 Collection was announced at Watches & Wonders. The Portugieser was created in 1939 due to a demand for a marine-deck chronometer experience that could be translated into a wristwatch. Legibility and accuracy are the two pillars that hold up the Portugieser line, and IWC has changed … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The elegance and nuance of the IWC Portugieser 2020 Collection in the metal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

#shitcollectorssay Reader’s Choice: These are the three phrases you don’t want watch media to misuse anymore Time+Tide
Nov 14, 2020

#shitcollectorssay Reader’s Choice: These are the three phrases you don’t want watch media to misuse anymore

Earlier this week, we shared our thoughts on phrases we are completely guilty of using at times, but wondered if it would be best to retire them. We’re not declaring right or wrong here, but rather just initiating a bit of a thought experiment and evaluating what effect our cultural rhetoric (so to speak) has … ContinuedThe post #shitcollectorssay Reader’s Choice: These are the three phrases you don’t want watch media to misuse anymore appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The strong will get stronger, and the weak “will eventually disappear”, Jean-Claude Biver assesses the pandemic Time+Tide
Sep 16, 2020

The strong will get stronger, and the weak “will eventually disappear”, Jean-Claude Biver assesses the pandemic

We spoke to Jean-Claude Biver recently for an upcoming feature-length video, and while we were on Zoom, the conversation turned to the pandemic. We took the opportunity to ask him some pointed questions about the industry’s recovery. How long does he think it will take? Who will be the winners and losers? He also shared … ContinuedThe post The strong will get stronger, and the weak “will eventually disappear”, Jean-Claude Biver assesses the pandemic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Ulysse Nardin Blast is a pyrotechnic expression of haute horology Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Blast Aug 27, 2020

VIDEO: The Ulysse Nardin Blast is a pyrotechnic expression of haute horology

Ulysse Nardin has charged into the fray in 2020 with the release of the new Ulysse Nardin Blast, launched just before Geneva Watch Days. While the brand has an extensive archive of marine chronometers that have inspired a number of nautical-themed wristwatches, the design language of the Blast collection is unashamedly expressive in its ambition. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Ulysse Nardin Blast is a pyrotechnic expression of haute horology appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Ulysse Nardin Blast is an explosive ode to the hottest jet ever created Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Blast Aug 24, 2020

The Ulysse Nardin Blast is an explosive ode to the hottest jet ever created

Since time immemorial, Ulysse Nardin has been renowned in the maritime world for their marine chronometers and nautically themed, complicated wristwatches. In fact, for the latter part of the 19th century and the first half of the 20th century, the Le Locle watchmaker created bespoke timekeeping devices for the navies of over 50 different countries. … ContinuedThe post The Ulysse Nardin Blast is an explosive ode to the hottest jet ever created appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The barn find edition, how to hunt for valuable vintage and what to look out for Time+Tide
Aug 13, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The barn find edition, how to hunt for valuable vintage and what to look out for

It was one of our most popular ‘who to follow’ posts ever. @barnfindwatches stepped up to the plate way back in 2017 to share some of his secrets as a master bargain hunter. His key takeaways are below, but before we get into them, let’s call out something important. The massive spike in traffic when … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The barn find edition, how to hunt for valuable vintage and what to look out for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MB&F; and Massena Lab Introduce the T-Rex Bronze SJX Watches
Massena Lab Introduce Jul 30, 2020

MB&F; and Massena Lab Introduce the T-Rex Bronze

Massena Lab was founded by watch industry veteran William Rohr – who is better known by the pseudonym William Massena – in 2018, with the purpose of collaborating with notable independent watchmakers, and perhaps one day make its own watches. Having made its debut with Habring2 , Massena Lab has just announced the T-Rex Bronze, a 15-piece variant of the quirky MB&F; table clock launched last year. Best described as a hand-blown Murano glass eyeball inside a bronze socket with legs, the T-Rex is made by L’Epee 1839, who is also responsible for all of MB&F;’s other clocks. Initial thoughts The T-Rex is an offbeat, statement piece for the desk, but powered by old-school mechanics – a key-wound, eight-day movement made by L’Epee 1839, a clockmaker founded in, well, 1839. That blend of contemporary creative and classic mechanics makes it cool. But the Massena Lab edition is a departure from the usual MB&F; clock style, which is dominated by metallic silver or black, resulting in a highly mechanical look. The Massena Lab T-Rex replaces the steel of the original version for frosted bronze and “aged” feet, giving the clock a striking, steampunk aesthetic. Permanent patina Standing a little under 27 cm high, the T-Rex weighs about 2 kg. According to MB&F; founder Maximilian Büsser, the form was inspired by a bipedal Christmas ornament on his desk. Freelance watch designer Maximilian Maertens then created the clock, relying on images of an actual Tyrannosaurus Rex to d...

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Blu Mare 44 mm PAM01085 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Jul 20, 2020

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Blu Mare 44 mm PAM01085

Perhaps the most recognisable Panerai is the Luminor Marina 44 mm. A modern-day creation inspired by a vintage military-issue watch, the Luminor Marina was introduced in 1993, and a decade later became one of the watches that kickstarted the fashion for bigger watches. While the Luminor Marina was historically all about black dials for a no-nonsense military look, Panerai has been injected more colour into the line up for a civilian-friendly style. The new Luminor Blu Mare 44 mm PAM01085 – blu mare translate as “blue sea” – retains the traditional design codes of the Luminor plus a fashionable blue dial. Initial thoughts While earlier Luminor models like the PAM1663 and the PAM1033 have had blue dials, but the new Luminor is arguably the cleanest, harking back to the entry-level Luminor Marina “Logo” of about a decade ago. The blue is metallic, subdued and finished with a radial-brushed finish that’ll definitely catch the light nicely. A colour that’s been in vogue for a couple of years, the blue dial gives the Luminor Blu Mare a slightly more elegant and contemporary feel than the typical Panerai, a useful quality for someone who likes the functional Panerai design but prefers lighter colour palette. The design, however, is strictly traditional. With the vintage originals designed as functional instruments for navy frogmen of the Second World War, the new Luminor is expectedly utilitarian, with large, eminently simple hands and indices – very much the ...

The Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J looks like it’s been sent to put a hit on anyone that questions its (high) price point Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J looks Jul 15, 2020

The Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J looks like it’s been sent to put a hit on anyone that questions its (high) price point

Editor’s note: There’s the simple fact that Seiko are turning up the heat on the Swiss watch industry, and then there’s the way they’re doing it. Both are 100% worth taking note of. For example, let’s re-examine the Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J, a high-spec Spring Drive GMT at a shade under $8000AUD, that carries with it a murdered … ContinuedThe post The Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J looks like it’s been sent to put a hit on anyone that questions its (high) price point appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Highlights of the 2020 Panerai collection, including the watch with a warranty that will probably out-live you Time+Tide
Panerai collection including Jul 13, 2020

VIDEO: Highlights of the 2020 Panerai collection, including the watch with a warranty that will probably out-live you

96. That’s how old I’ll be when the warranty on one of these watches runs out. This year is all about the Luminor in the 2020 Panerai collection, with a number of exciting new references that have been released so far. We focus on two highlights within the collection, the Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01117 and … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Highlights of the 2020 Panerai collection, including the watch with a warranty that will probably out-live you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the New Lange 1 Time Zone SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jun 25, 2020

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the New Lange 1 Time Zone

One of the most high-spec travel watches on the market, the Lange 1 Time Zone has just gotten a major revamp. The new Lange 1 Time Zone looks pretty much like the old one, but it’s powered by a brand-new movement that’s been developed from the ground up. Though it retains the same functions as before – plus a basic daylight savings time reminder – the dial has been improved, both in terms of display as well as details. Initial thoughts The original Lange 1 Time Zone was an ambitious travel watch that did a lot – twin time zones with individual day and night indicators, cities disc, oversized date, and power reserve. Functionality was maximised, but the interface and display was complex. The new Lange 1 Time Zone takes it a step further with the addition of a simple daylight savings time reminder that’s discreet enough to be almost invisible. But because the watch still has so many features, the interface inevitably remains complex, with two pushers plus a crown, making it a bit fiddly to use. Add to that the large and heavy case, and the Lange 1 Time Zone isn’t the most practical of travel watches. It really is for someone who appreciates the technical complexity and also enjoys interacting with the watch. Technical accomplishment remains an appeal in the new model. In typical Lange style, the new watch is powered by a movement developed from the ground up. A substantial amount of effort was expended to retain the same look – as was done with the Lange 1 ...

Michael Klim has just been inducted into the International Swimming Hall of Fame, but he needs a watch for free-diving… Time+Tide
Jun 22, 2020

Michael Klim has just been inducted into the International Swimming Hall of Fame, but he needs a watch for free-diving…

In part three of our epic digital Baselworld event, Time+Tide’s Andrew McUtchen and Luke Benedictus spoke with Aussie swimming legend Michael Klim. Our timing was perfect, as Michael has just been inducted into the International Swimming Hall of Fame as part of Class of 2020. Swimmingworldmagazine.com reports that “Michael Klim has been called the best relay swimmer … ContinuedThe post Michael Klim has just been inducted into the International Swimming Hall of Fame, but he needs a watch for free-diving… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Pandemic Truths – Mohammed Abdulmagied Seddiqi of Seddiqi & Sons SJX Watches
Jun 22, 2020

Pandemic Truths – Mohammed Abdulmagied Seddiqi of Seddiqi & Sons

Everyone in watchmaking has been affected by the pandemic, brands and consumers alike. But in between the two are the retailers. To find out how the situation in unfolding for the key intermediary between brand and consumer, we spoke with Mohammed Abdulmagied Seddiqi. He is the Chief Commercial Officer of Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the luxury-watch pioneer established in 1950 that is now the biggest retailer in the Middle East. Beyond being a retailer, the Dubai-based company is also widely known for organising Dubai Watch Week, the biannual fair that brings watchmakers and industry personalities to the Emirate. The interview was edited for clarity and length. First, how did Seddiqi get through the lockdown? It all happened very fast and came as a shock at first. The UAE government applied very strict rules immediately to protect the population and support the economy. We underwent a strict lockdown of 40 days. For security reasons, we moved our inventory out of the malls into our headquarters. We quickly found out it was a good idea! Indeed, no matter that the whole state was in lockdown, people still reached out to us for watches. We started sending pictures to them and organising home deliveries. At the beginning to middle of March, we did one delivery a week, then it turned into a daily challenge. What is amazing is that we did not get any order cancellations during the period. On the contrary, we saw people were getting bored at home, so online shopping increased. But we...

Swatch Introduces the Big Bold Jelly Neon SJX Watches
Swatch Jun 15, 2020

Swatch Introduces the Big Bold Jelly Neon

Only just introduced earlier in the year, the Big Bold Jelly is a modern, majorly-upsized take on the Jelly Fish (ref. GZ010) of 1983 that had visible innards, just like the eponymous marine species. Now the jellyfish gets a dose of colour with the Big Bold Jelly Neon. Essentially the same watch as the clear Big Bold Jelly, it is dressed up in bright, neon colours – orange, yellow, green or blue – for a more edgy and lively look. Initial thoughts Swatch watches are popular for their eccentric, recognisable designs – and were wildly popular 30 years ago in their heyday – and the Big Bold Jelly Neon is no different. The watch is indeed big and bold. The translucent plastic case is 47 mm – matched with a translucent strap – and reveals the gears of the quartz movement on the clear dial. And it has the crown at two o’clock, which is pretty unconventional. The particular combination of whimsical quirks rarely exists in other watches, which makes the Big Bold case immediately distinct from afar. The Big Bold Jelly Neon is also the boldest and most vibrant variant of the model to date, thanks to the punctuating accents of colour on the face, which even extend to the lugs and the buckle. They are welcome additions to the “jellyfish” aesthetic, making the watch even more striking than the previous Big Bold Jelly and encapsulate the essence of Swatch – fun, cheerful and eye catching. And the colours also make the watch a good choice for the trendy who are into...

Recap: Instagram Live with Rexhep Rexhepi SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi May 29, 2020

Recap: Instagram Live with Rexhep Rexhepi

Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia was the guest on our first-ever Instagram Live, where he spoke with our founder SJX. Lighthearted and insightful, the session centred on the growth of Akrivia’s in-house capabilities, as well as the future of the Chronomètre Contemporain series. Here’s a recap of the highlights from the session. Ambitions for integration Rexhep has big dreams for Akrivia as a true manufacture, from production to even testing. This stems from an explicit desire to control every element of production, and to ensure his high standards at met every step of the way. Much of the progress made in vertical integration will be reflected in the second series of the Chronomètre Contemporain. While the series one cases were produced by a Geneva specialist, the second series will have its cases made in-house by master case maker Jean-Pierre Hagmann, who joined Akrivia last year. At the same time, Rexhep said the movement will have a greater share of parts made in-house. While the exactly proportion was unsaid, he made clear that his goal was to eventually make all key parts – bridges, base plates, wheels and pinions – in the Akrivia workshop. Beyond production timepieces, such vertical integration will be advantageous as it would allow Akrivia to prototype ideas far more quickly. Rexhep Rexhepi with Jean-Pierre Hagmann. Photo – Akrivia Interestingly, Rexhep also touched on chronometer testing and certification. The first series Chronomètre Contemporain is te...

INTRODUCING: The IWC Portugieser Automatic 40, a new contender for the ultimate ‘one watch’ Time+Tide
IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 May 1, 2020

INTRODUCING: The IWC Portugieser Automatic 40, a new contender for the ultimate ‘one watch’

The story of the Portugieser begins with two businessmen from, you guessed it, Portugal. They went to IWC asking for a watch as accurate as a marine chronometer but could be worn on the wrist, something that hadn’t been done before by the brand. The only way the Schaffhausen-based manufacturer could meet the brief was … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC Portugieser Automatic 40, a new contender for the ultimate ‘one watch’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: Introducing Marnaut, the sub-$1k 300m dive watch with the sea urchin dot-pattern dial Time+Tide
Apr 19, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Introducing Marnaut, the sub-$1k 300m dive watch with the sea urchin dot-pattern dial

Mario Jutronic’s marine-themed microbrand Marnaut is a breath of fresh ocean air. It was beginning to seem impossible that a retro-flavoured dive watch could bring anything new to the table, but one glimpse at a Marnaut dial and you must admit they’ve found a way. Having spent a large portion of his youth snorkelling around … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Introducing Marnaut, the sub-$1k 300m dive watch with the sea urchin dot-pattern dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Pandemic Truths – Edouard Meylan of H. Moser & Cie. SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Apr 17, 2020

Pandemic Truths – Edouard Meylan of H. Moser & Cie.

A time of crisis is always a good moment to reflect – especially when confined to the home – so we spoke with key personalities in watchmaking to see what they’re doing. As the pandemic-inflected reality faced by major brands and independents are necessarily different, here are the views from one of the big “small” brands, H. Moser & Cie. Its young and straight-forward chief executive, Edouard Meylan, answers our questions, in part one of Pandemic Truths. Like almost everyone at the moment, Edouard is working from home, which is just a few minutes away from the H. Moser & Cie. factory in Schaffhausen. Edouard’s work-from-home desk. Photo – Edouard Meylan How does this crisis impacted your business, in productions, distribution, or people? Obviously, this crisis has a global impact as it creates uncertainty in both supply and demand. How can I produce watches when my suppliers are closed and I want to make sure my employees are safe? And even if I were able to produce, where do I sell when all my stores and distributors are closed? Today only four of my retailers are still open. But it is probably easier for us as we can easily ship directly to consumers. We have been very lucky to exhibit during the Dubai watch exhibitions [primarily LVMH Watch Week] early in January. We were able to introduce our novelties and get pre-orders. We are delivering them today, so business is almost as usual for the moment. We have launched our certified pre-owned platform last m...