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Monochrome
On one side is Maurice Lacroix, a serious brand with a strong position in the accessible luxury watch segment, but also some serious watchmaking skills with its Masterpiece range. On the other side is Label Noir, a Geneva-based customisation atelier in operation since 2011, with an exciting portfolio – which also happens to include a […]
Fratello
Some 25 kilometers north of Geneva, on the shore of the city’s eponymous lake, lies the town of Nyon. This is the place that Renaud Tixier, the latest Swiss independent watch brand launching today, calls its home. It’s the latest collaborative effort between Dominique Renaud - the renowned watchmaker and co-founder of Renaud & Papi […] Visit Reinventing The Micro-Rotor: Renaud Tixier Makes A Mechanically Innovative Debut to read the full article.
Welcome to episode 76 of A Week in Watches. As said in the last episode, much of the next episode, which is this episode, will be dedicated to the British Watchmaker’s Day. An event that took place on Saturday, March 9th, in London, the British Watchmaker’s Day hosted over 40 brands and 1,000 guests for a very successful first go. But before we go over that, we first have to look at a couple of new releases from Omega and Seiko. This episode is sponsored by William Wood and their newly released Fire Exit Watch. The watch features a Swiss-made Sellita SW220 day date movement, a green glow, and a day complication with seven illustrated days of the week featuring multiple fun references to the fire exit man icon. Click here to learn how William Wood expanded their firefighter-heritage brand with this creative and colorful watch. The post A Week in Watches ep. 76: British Watchmakers’ Day 2024 (but First Some Omega and Seiko) appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
While there have been time-and-date and triple calendar versions since the mid-1990s, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore or ROO, has always been primarily known as a chronograph watch. It was actually designed as such when it launched in 1993. In modern days, non-chronograph ROO watches were mostly known as the Diver version, which was […]
Monochrome
A few days ago, the MONOCHROME team delivered our yearly forecast of potential launches for the 2024 Rolex Collection. As always, we try our best to guess what the Crown will be presenting at the watch industry’s largest fair, Watches and Wonders. While trying to imagine and design these potential Rolex models, we also started […]
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Monochrome
In only two months, the watch community will focus all its attention on Geneva. In early April, the largest watch fair of the year, Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024, will open its doors. As a yearly tradition for the past decade, it’s time for the MONOCHROME team to get creative and predict what Rolex might […]
Fratello
On February 1st, as usual, Patek Philippe communicated the new list prices to its authorized dealers. We also got the yearly list of discontinued models, which, not shockingly, includes more Nautilus references. On top of that, Patek Philippe decided to discontinue the popular Aquanaut Travel Time in stainless steel (ref. 5164A). While price increases are […] Visit Patek Philippe’s Price Increases And Discontinuations For 2024 - What Is Next For The Genevan Brand? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
With Daniel Roth’s revival having become official last year, the brand has just taken the covers off the prototype of the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription at LVMH Watch Week 2024. Retaining the style and dimensions of its 1990s inspiration, the Tourbillon Souscription is, however, an entirely new creation in mechanical terms, with the DR001 movement inside having been developed specifically for it by Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). Initial thoughts The prototype of the Tourbillon Souscription arrives with subtle refinements compared to the images released last year. The aesthetics largely replicate the design of the 1990s originals, which was the brand’s goal from the beginning, at least for this opening act in its revival. Where the Tourbillon Souscription does better than the original is in the execution and mechanics. The guilloche dial is evidently top quality and also on a solid-gold base. More notably, the recessed area around the tourbillon, which is the actually the base plate, is finished with Côtes de Genève. On the originals this area was unfinished except for a rudimentary micro-blasting. But the calibre within is a more substantive achievement. The DR001 movement was conceived for this watch (though perhaps borrowing elements from LFT’s existing constructions) with aesthetics and traditional detailing in mind, explaining elements like the black-polished steel cock and linear winding click. In contrast, the originals relie...
Worn & Wound
It can sometimes be easy to forget that there was a time when finding high-quality, affordable mechanical watches was a bit of a challenge. Back in those days, Seiko was the name of the game, and while plenty of worthy competitors have risen through the ranks to challenge the Japanese brand, Seiko still has a few tricks up its sleeve. Namely, Seiko knows how to make a hell of a dress watch. While there are plenty of iconic tool watches available at a true entry-level price point, finding great dress watches - especially mechanical ones - is harder to do. Since its initial introduction in 2010, the Cocktail Time series has offered collectors a genuinely exciting, and beautiful, dress watch at an almost shocking price. Today, Seiko has expanded its Cocktail Time lineup with the introduction of their latest collaboration with Hisashi Kishi’s famed Ginza watering hole, STAR BAR. This is not the first time Kishi and STAR BAR have collaborated with Seiko either. You might remember that back in 2022, Kishi and Seiko released the SSA455J1 and SSA457J1. That duo, based on the familiar colors of classic cocktails like the Martini, were distinguished by the cutouts in their dials reminiscent of a ripple on the surface of a drink. This time, Kishi and Seiko have released a pair of watches with inspiration taken from proprietary cocktails Kishi has created for STAR BAR inspired by the Tokyo skyline. What results is a pair of watches offered with beautiful gradient dials, perfect ...
Worn & Wound
The funny thing about classic designs and the good old days is that you often recognize them only once they are over-when you are no longer experiencing them in the present. But how remarkable would it be to own and wear something knowing that it was made precisely for its time but with potential as a future classic? The Brew Metric Black & Gold Carbon chronograph seeks to accomplish just that: to be a watch designed for this very moment but distinctive enough to be recognized for generations to come. As the latest evolution of the Metric chronograph, the Black & Gold is at once evocative and alluring. The Metric is perhaps Brew’s most famous design with its off-centered sub-dials and curvaceous case and bracelet. The elapsed seconds dial at ten o’clock curiously marks the optimal window of time to extract the perfect espresso shot, which is just the kind of anachronism and modern charm that has come to define Brew as a whole. The stealthy 36mm case and bracelet, subtle touches of carbon along the edge of the dial, and gold accents all combine to make a beautiful watch that is just different enough from the mainstream today. In other words, it just might be a future classic. The post Lookbook: Keeping It Classic with the Brew Metric Black & Gold Carbon appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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Monochrome
It might not be the most productive of categories, but the pilot’s watch remains one of the all-time important watch styles, even though its real-world relevance is more limited these days due to flight management systems. Nevertheless, nostalgia and vintage inspiration are still important drivers of the watch industry’s creativity, and for that reason, some […]
Hodinkee
A Geneva court ruled Yoko Ono is the owner of one of the world's most valuable watches, but that's only the beginning of a story of extortion, theft, and a watch that traveled around the world. Now that we know where it is, will we ever see it?
Monochrome
A few months ago, Swatch and Blancpain introduced the Swatch x Blancpain Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms. Yup, quite a mouthful. It’s effectively the follow-up of the Moonswatch, which can be seen as Swatch’s take on the Omega Speedmaster. We didn’t cover it on MONOCHROME for obvious reasons (it’s a quartz watch…) despite being a huge […]
Monochrome
Collaboration watches are a dime a dozen these days as watch brands turn to high-profile players and marques on the sports and cultural scene to add some pizzazz to their collections. Even some of the oldest Swiss watch brands are not immune to the appeal of collaborations, especially if the partner is as reputable as […]
Time+Tide
You can fly over to Geneva or Dubai for a watch fair, but the best selection of watches can always be found at an auction house. On December 7, 2023, Sotheby’s will be holding their latest Important Watches auction with 159 exceptional lots to go under the hammer. Ahead of the battle of the paddles, … ContinuedThe post Zach goes hands-on with five awesome lots from Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Worn & Wound
I am an unabashed fan of Swatch. I’ve always loved Swatch watches, and as I’ve gotten deeper and deeper into the hobby over the years, my appreciation for them has only grown. They occupy a position that only a few other brands can claim, which is that they’re both an entry point into the hobby, and an arena for very serious collecting. Seriously, Swatch collecting is almost a separate category from watch collecting entirely, and requires a completely different base of knowledge, and, often, an appreciation for things that more mainstream collectors don’t often think about (like packaging, to name just one example). Swatch has been on something of a roll lately in my opinion, releasing a slew of watches that are genuinely interesting and visually striking, and sometimes paying homage to the brand’s early days in unexpected ways. One of my favorite pastimes around here is calling out the great things Swatch does besides the neverending collaborations with their luxury group siblings (it’s no secret that I’m not the biggest fan of the MoonSwatch and new Blancpain collabs), and a recent release, a collaboration of a different sort, caught my eye. Yes, Swatch has a new watch featuring classic iconography from The Simpsons, one of the most omnipresent pieces of pop culture in our lives over the last three decades. It’s a perfectly cromulent watch if there ever was one. The Seconds of Sweetness watch uses Homer’s famous pink donut as a motif, with ever pres...
Worn & Wound
It may be hard to believe, but we’re already well into November as fall is in full swing. Pool parties are giving way to grateful gatherings, and the shorter days usher in a more demure mood. In the same spirit, big and brash bracelet-clad watches are set aside for more modest pieces – often on straps – befitting of the autumn vibe. The Windup Watch Shop is truly your one-stop-shop for all things straps, from NATOs; to rubber; to leather; to steel. Stepping up your strap game and trying new combinations is a tried and true method to keeping your collection feeling fresh. But if a new watch for the season is what you are after, the Shop also has you covered with several leather-paired watches that fit the fall theme and are ready to slip under that cozy sweater you’ve been looking forward to wearing all year. It may be hard to believe, but we’re already well into November as fall is in full swing. Pool parties are giving way to grateful gatherings, and the shorter days usher in a more demure mood. In the same spirit, big and brash bracelet-clad watches are set aside for more modest pieces – often on straps – befitting of the autumn vibe. The Windup Watch Shop is truly your one-stop-shop for all things straps, from NATOs; to rubber; to leather; to steel. Stepping up your strap game and trying new combinations is a tried and true method to keeping your collection feeling fresh. But if a new watch for the season is what you are after, the Shop also has you covere...
SJX Watches
With “indies” all the rage now, auction catalogues usually have a generous helping of independent watchmaking. Amongst the many offerings from the genre this season, a handful stand out, including the Philippe Dufour Simplicity prototype no. 000 in Phillips’ Geneva watch auction that takes place on November 3 and 4, 2023. This is one of three prototype watches Mr Dufour made for the 2000 Basel fair when the Simplicity made its debut. Two of them were in white gold with a silvered guilloche dial – Mr Dufour himself frequently wears one of them – and the last was this watch, which is pink gold with a white lacquered dial. Initial thoughts Today Philippe Dufour has grown beyond the personality and is essentially a brand, an evolution that arguably took place after the 20th anniversary Simplicity was launched 2020. In contrast, this Simplicity prototype, along with the first 200 examples Mr Dufour made, encapsulates the artisanal beginnings of the man and his brand. At the time of the Simplicity’s launch, and for more than a decade after, Mr Dufour found neither fame nor fortune, given that he only made a handful of Simplicity watches each year and sold each for about US$40,000. The early watches are perhaps purer creations that capture the essence of Mr Dufour’s vision, which was to pay tribute to the heyday of Vallee de Joux watchmaking. Mr Dufour, of course, managed to do it slightly better, explaining why his creations are often regarded as having the best m...
Worn & Wound
Something I think about quite a bit in this hobby is the idea that the watches we wear are often just part of a costume that we’re presenting to the outside world. They exist as aspirational symbols of what we’d like our life to be. There’s a cosplay aspect to wearing certain watches that I’m never quite able to shake, even watches I love. I wear, on most days, either a pilot’s watch or a diver, and I don’t fly a plane and I don’t even really like to swim. I wear these watches because I genuinely enjoy them as watches, but I’d be lying if a small part of me didn’t feel like a pretender, a guy asking himself who he thinks he’s kidding with this super tactical pilot’s instrument strapped to his wrist. I’ve never felt that feeling more acutely than in my time with the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Automatic in rose gold. This watch, let’s just say, is not in my normal wheelhouse. While I appreciate it aesthetically (in fact, I find it quite beautiful) it’s not the kind of thing I’d choose to wear. But more than that, this watch is part of a micro-genre of watches that is very specific, one that I’m fascinated by, but am personally so far removed from, I am legitimately probably closer to the pilot walking into the US Navy Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor program than I am the dude who this watch was made for. The Tonda PF Sport Auto is part of a class of watches I think of as “leisure sport,” with a heavy emphasis on the leisure. Th...
SJX Watches
Panerai has just taken the covers off a reinterpretation of an intriguing and perhaps experimental variant of the Radiomir characterised by solid lugs. Christened the Radiomir Guido Panerai & Figlio PAM01346, this one-off watch has a platinum case houses an eight-day Angelus SF 240 movement from 1961. It’s set to be sold at Phillips’ Geneva watch auction on November 3 with all proceeds, including the buyer’s premium, going to UNESCO’s marine conservation body, the Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission (IOC-UNESCO). Initial thoughts It’s frequently true that when a brand decides to tweak its heritage, the result is rarely a standing ovation or zero criticism. The challenge usually arises from the conservative perspective of passionate purists who hold history as gospel, making it difficult to accept changes to a historical concept. Indeed, the one-of-a-kind Radiomir PAM01346 is a prime example of this delicate balancing act. It takes inspiration from the solid-lug Radiomir ref. 3646 – occasionally known as a “transitional Radiomir” though it was more experimental than transitional – and while the PAM01346 may not replicate the original entirely, it truly stands out as a contemporary reinterpretation that captures many key elements of the original, including the meticulously restored, period-correct Angelus movement. Regardless of one’s perspective, the PAM01346 is undeniably a homage to an obscure but significant model in Panerai’s history, despit...
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Deployant
We take a second look at the rather amazing Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante. We had a close look at the watch again in Geneva this year.
Time+Tide
The new CarbonGold variants go back to 1993, the first time Bulgari combined high-tech with traditional luxury Extremely light due to their full carbon construction, the models are highlighted in 18k rose gold Ultra-thin is the name of the game, with both the automatic and perpetual calendar movements measuring in under 3mm For Geneva Watch … ContinuedThe post Bulgari weaves golden threads into their new Octo Finissimo CarbonGold collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
After working for lofty brands such as Cartier, Baume & Mercier, and Zenith, Brice Jaunet needed to forge his own path. Briston was founded to be the culmination of his experience, as well as a blend of French and British styles to represent both his homeland and university days. Small watch brands can sometimes struggle … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Briston Streamliner Urban and its retro-modern inspiration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
As a collector, and a fairly visible one at that, GaryG has been paying attention to reports of muggings and thefts of watches and wondering whether it makes sense these days to wear valuable pieces in public. He polled a group of 20 watch enthusiast friends on their personal safety while wearing watches to learn what steps they take to keep safe.
Time+Tide
When it comes to big watch fairs like Watches & Wonders Geneva, it’s often the brands that aren’t officially exhibiting at the show that have some of the most exciting releases. Step out of the frenetic hive of activity that is Palexpo and go exploring Geneva’s streets, hotels and bars and you’ll find all manner … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph is the sportiest take on the sportiest Octo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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