Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Attesa: Japan's IYKYK "Tech-Forward" Titanium Collection Explained
How titanium, light power, and signal-controlled timekeeping define Citizen’s high-tech sports-watch collection.More
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Teddy Baldassarre
Hodinkee
Introducing: Ianos Amfivios (Live Pics)
What We Know Today, Ianos, the Greek microbrand best known for its Greek history and culture-inspired dive watches like the Avyssos and the Dytis, is back with a new dive watch that was never meant to be. When Ianos introduced the Dytis last year, it was noted as the last in a trilogy of dive watches from Ianos, after which they would move on to the next thing. Well, Ianos is still mostly sticking to that story, but in the meantime, we have the Ianos Amfivios, a civilian edition of a special-edition watch Ianos produced last summer for Greece's Underwater Demolition Command. The new watch, built on the same dive-watch platform as last summer's Dytis (which TanTan went hands-on with here), is a solid next step for a brand that has iterated gently, even as it's taken big aesthetic swings in developing its collection. And truly, few, if any, other watches on the market scratch the same itch as Ianos's watches do. That said, the Amfivios is about as mass-appeal a watch as Ianos has produced, thanks to the military-demanded touches that set it apart from the Dytis. The Amfivios is, for example, the first dive watch since the original Avyssos to include any kind of scale on the rotating bezel. And where previous Ianos watches have used the small seconds subdial as a visual gag, here it is a functional subdial, with hands, markers, and everything. That's not to say Ianos has purged all that makes these watches, frankly, a little funky, though. The unique date at 12 remains, with ...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Yema Navygraf Meteorite CMM.10 Limited Edition, in Black or Green
Recently, French brand Yema has expanded the Navygraf series beyond its traditional tool-watch format, experimenting with less conventional materials such as forged carbon and mother-of-pearl for the dial and bezel insert. The latest evolution goes much further back in time. Yema brings a slice of Muonionalusta meteorite, a material estimated to have formed around 4.5 […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Louis Vuitton Monterey In Ceramic
What We Know The 2025 revival of the Louis Vuitton Monterey was a curious moment for the brand. Certainly influenced by a recent surge in popularity for the original LV I and LV II watches among celebrities and vintage collectors, it was a small(ish) 188-piece run (priced at $60,000) meant to show the brand was paying attention to what was happening around it. While the original LV I was a quartz watch with several complications, the brand simplified the aesthetics with the revival—gone were the complications and the distinctive, busy dial with all of its markings, as the new Monterey was time-only with a mechanical movement. But that Monterey also demonstrated the craft of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, introducing a simpler dial in grand feu enamel. While it may have seemed like a small blip in the brand's overall plans, Louis Vuitton has more to say about the pebble-like designs from 1988 by Italian architect Gae Aulenti—the Monterey Ceramic, a duo of watches that focuses on the smaller LV II. Now, the Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramics are not part of a limited edition and officially enter the brand's permanent collection. The cases are faithful to the original, preserving the model's smaller 37mm case size and both original ceramic colors: green and black. The polished, pebble-shaped case is slightly thicker at 11mm, however, because it houses the automatic LFTMA01.02 caliber rather than the original quartz movement. Like last year's Monterey, the Monterey Ceram...
WristBuzz
Ianos Amfivios: Greece's Military Diver Finally Opens Its Doors
The watch built for Greece's elite Underwater Demolition Command now has a civilian sibling, and it's worth paying attention to
Monochrome
First Look - Louis Vuitton Unveils the Monterey in Green or Black Ceramic, Tribute to the LV II of 1988
Contrary to popular belief, Louis Vuitton’s first watch was not the 2002 Tambour but the earlier Montre LV I and LV II, launched in 1988. Designed by Italian architect Gae Aulenti and produced in collaboration with IWC, these quartz-powered pieces reflected the brand’s travel-oriented identity. With their lug-free, pebble-shaped cases and crowns at 12 o’clock, […]
Fratello
The New Ianos Amfivios Is Like A Fish In Water On The Wrist
With the Avyssos, Mihanikos, and Dytis, the Greek brand Ianos completed its trilogy of dive watches. That’s what founder Jacob Hatzidimitriou thought, anyway. Then, last year, he released the Ianos OYK. That watch was developed exclusively for active members of Greece’s Underwater Demolition Command (DYK), including the Underwater Demolition Teams (OYK), the country’s most elite […] Visit The New Ianos Amfivios Is Like A Fish In Water On The Wrist to read the full article.
WatchRider
TUDOR Black Bay Chrono “Panda” (M79360N) Review: On Leather & On a Woman’s Wrist
Here is my honest opinion after years of collecting and wearing watches: men’s watches are just better. And no, 41mm is not too big for a woman’s wrist. I’ve had this watch for a few years now, and honestly, our relationship has only gotten better with time. It isn’t my everyday beat-it-up-and-forget-it watch; I wear it occasionally. But whenever I open my watch box and pull it out, it still gives me that instant “oh yeah, this is the one” feeling. Let’s start with the face, because that is what hooked me in the first place. This specific model is famously known as the “Panda,” and it earns every bit of that adorable nickname. You’ve got a crisp, opaline white dial contrasted against two deep, matte-black sub-dials. It is clean, legible, and visually balanced in a way that tickles the design-obsessed part of my brain. Add in TUDOR’s signature snowflake hands and the subtle red accent on the tip of the chronograph hand, plus the red depth rating text, and you have a watch face that looks like it belongs on a vintage racing grid in the 1970s. It has personality. It doesn’t scream for attention, but if someone catches a glance of it across a table, they know it’s something special. It’s powered by the manufacture Calibre MT5813, which boasts a 70-hour power reserve and a column-wheel chronograph mechanism with a vertical clutch. It is also water-resistant to 200 meters. Am I ever going to strap on a scuba tank and dive 200 meters into the freezing ...
WatchRider
TUDOR Black Bay Chrono “Panda” (M79360N) Review: On Leather & On a Woman’s Wrist
Here is my honest opinion after years of collecting and wearing watches: men’s watches are just better. And no, 41mm is not too big for a woman’s wrist. I’ve had this watch for a few years now, and honestly, our relationship has only gotten better with time. It isn’t my everyday beat-it-up-and-forget-it watch; I wear it occasionally. But whenever I open my watch box and pull it out, it still gives me that instant “oh yeah, this is the one” feeling. Let’s start with the face, because that is what hooked me in the first place. This specific model is famously known as the “Panda,” and it earns every bit of that adorable nickname. You’ve got a crisp, opaline white dial contrasted against two deep, matte-black sub-dials. It is clean, legible, and visually balanced in a way that tickles the design-obsessed part of my brain. Add in TUDOR’s signature snowflake hands and the subtle red accent on the tip of the chronograph hand, plus the red depth rating text, and you have a watch face that looks like it belongs on a vintage racing grid in the 1970s. It has personality. It doesn’t scream for attention, but if someone catches a glance of it across a table, they know it’s something special. It’s powered by the manufacture Calibre MT5813, which boasts a 70-hour power reserve and a column-wheel chronograph mechanism with a vertical clutch. It is also water-resistant to 200 meters. Am I ever going to strap on a scuba tank and dive 200 meters into the freezing ...
Monochrome
Buying Guide - Six Classy Dress Watches, With A Twist
The classic dress watch segment is home to some of the most iconic and enduring watches in history, yet there are plenty of new and very desirable pieces making the rounds. If you dare to tread outside the beaten path a bit, that is. Over the past couple of years, the dress watch category has […]
Fratello
Living With The Hanhart 415 ES Reverse Panda After Selling My IWC 3706
There’s a particular kind of watch that looks better the longer you sit with it, and the Hanhart 415 ES in its black-dial, white-register guise is exactly that kind of watch. First impressions are strong; that’s easy with a reverse-panda dial. However, it’s the weeks that follow and the mornings you reach for it without […] Visit Living With The Hanhart 415 ES Reverse Panda After Selling My IWC 3706 to read the full article.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm Vs. Seiko Prospex Alpinist
It’s another Sunday morning, so it’s time for a hot cup of coffee and a heated watch battle. This week, Daan is back, and he takes on Jorg once more in a clash of two cult favorites. Daan’s pick is the recently released 38mm Hamilton Khaki Field Murph. The Murph has become a proper darling […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm Vs. Seiko Prospex Alpinist to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre Videos
The Watches of a Factory Worker (Casio, Seiko, Rolex, & More)
On today's episode of our Real Collector series, we talk to Josh P. about his collection of watches. Josh has made his living working with factory robotics and has built a collection that speak to his tool watch sensibilities. Watch the video to see the full collection!
Fratello
Weirdos Or Class Acts? Introducing The Ulysse Nardin Freak One Blue Enamel And Guilloché
Since the watch shocked the world when it first appeared in 2001 and still looks as unconventional and futuristic as ever, the question is fair: are the two new Ulysse Nardin Freak One Blue Enamel and Guilloche watches weirdos or class acts? Well, since one features a guilloché disc with a sunray pattern coated in […] Visit Weirdos Or Class Acts? Introducing The Ulysse Nardin Freak One Blue Enamel And Guilloché to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Patek Philippe Celestial Ref. 6105G (Plus Technical In-Depth)
We're on the eve of one of Patek Philippe's biggest events every few years: the October 2nd to the 18th presentation of the brand's Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan. On Monday, I'll be flying there for a preview of the exhibition, so stay tuned for stories from that trip coming in the near future. Another story, which has been waiting in the wings and in progress for some time now, was a hands-on look at two of the most surprising (and potentially divisive) releases from Patek this year: the Cubitus perpetual calendar and the Celestial ref. 6105G. While all eyes were on the Nautilus's 50th anniversary, I thought Patek Philippe had a very interesting Watches & Wonders, at least from the perspective of bold releases and brand strategy. Truthfully, they could have done just about anything with the Nautilus, and those lucky enough to get a watch would have been happy. The Celestial alone was a wristwatch with a complication only four other brands have created. But just take a look at the two watches above and the two below. While I didn't get to see the ref. 7047G in person, it raised eyebrows for the very unusual blue tire tread-style dial (à la ref. 6007G) and remarkably strong orange accents and luminous hands and dial placed on a minute repeater that retails north of $570,000. It was perhaps so aesthetically surprising that it distracted people from the fact that Patek was honoring its past with a Calatrava-cased minute repeater reminiscent of the unique ref. 3652 and ...
Monochrome
Introducing - Buci Opens a New Chapter with the Singular Nouvelle Collection
Founded in 2022 by Nousseïma Baraket, Buci approaches watchmaking through the written word, taking ideas from books, poetry and different forms of writing. Its debut Garde-Temps collection established this identity, followed by collaborations with seconde/seconde/ and Revolution Watch magazine. With Nouvelle, its second collection, Buci turns to the short story, using the passage of time […]
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: BA111OD’s Chapter 7 Skeleton Gets a Light and Airy Stainless Steel Build
I had heard the name but was not aware of the unforgettable spelling until I got a sample of my first BA111OD watch, the latest addition to the brand’s catalog: the Chapter 7 Skeleton. While BA111OD traces its roots back deep into the history of watchmaking, its modern incarnation has taken shape over the past seven years with several different chapters. One of the biggest evolutions we have seen in the brand’s contemporary catalog is in its movements. While early chapters got flack for keeping costs accessible with Chinese calibers, Chapter 3 incorporated the first Swiss caliber into the Swiss-based Maison’s lineup in 2022. The brand’s next installment, Chapter 4, continued to build on this trajectory with the BA111OD caliber BA.01. This movement was notably developed in collaboration with watchmaker Olivier Mory whose La Chaux de Fonds workshop has given rise to movements for brands across the industry, from Louis Erard to Yema. Then, BA111OD’s Chapter 5 went on to introduce the Maison’s first automatic chronograph thanks to the ETA Valjoux 7750. Next, Chapter Delta entered the lineup with a major shakeup thanks to another movement co-created with Olivier Mory, this time featuring a unique hypocycloidal mechanism. Instead of a standard central rotating hand, a satellite hour wheel rolls around a fixed central wheel. This creates a deltoid path where the hour dot naturally slows down and speeds up during its rotation cycle. Here, traditional circular minutes c...
Fratello
A Personal Trip Down Memory Lane With The New Glashütte Original 70s Series
Immediately after I saw the images of the new Glashütte Original 70s series, I was intrigued. With the square case shape and textured dials, these new watches instantly reminded me of a classic Citizen watch my father wore in the 1980s, which I still have at home. As you’ll understand, a connection like that is […] Visit A Personal Trip Down Memory Lane With The New Glashütte Original 70s Series to read the full article.
Fratello
The Makina Azazel_I Outgrows Local Time And Adds A GMT Complication
A little over a year ago, I reviewed the Makina Azazel_I. This futuristic-looking watch from the young Filipino brand features clever design tricks that make it hard to forget. And now, a year on, Makina is presenting a new version of the Azazel_I that keeps the same concept but integrates a GMT complication in a […] Visit The Makina Azazel_I Outgrows Local Time And Adds A GMT Complication to read the full article.
Fratello
Fresh Faces For The Sporty Breguet Marine 5517 And Chronographe 5527
As their names already suggest, the Tradition and Classique are Breguet’s classic-looking models, perfect for dressier occasions. But what if you want a sportier, water-resistant watch from the maison that made timepieces for royalty and emperors? Breguet has you covered with the Marine collection, available in precious metals as well as titanium. Breguet marine chronometers […] Visit Fresh Faces For The Sporty Breguet Marine 5517 And Chronographe 5527 to read the full article.
Fratello
Celebrating With The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 30th Anniversary
Today, Vacheron Constantin launches a special Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin to celebrate the collection’s 30th anniversary. This limited edition of 200 pieces pairs an 18K white gold case with a new, lighter azure dial. Although the underlying watch debuted in 2016, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar remains one of the thinnest full-calendar integrated-bracelet sporty watches available. […] Visit Celebrating With The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 30th Anniversary to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
Hands-On Review: Going Green With IWC’s Ingenieur 42 Green Ceramic
IWC went green this year with the Ingenieur 42 Ceramic, and while we thought the black was good, this could be better! What We Love: The shade of green ceramic works extremely well The gold accents elevate the watch nicely The finish & light play make this a standout on the wrist What We Don’t: Still, the lack of the quick-link adjustment system on the bracelet The 42 mm case size may not suit all wrist sizes and types A full ceramic watch may not be for everyone, or suit some people’s lifestyles Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 When IWC released the black ceramic Ingenieur last year, I was pretty impressed with how well the watch worked in the metal, or ceramic, I should say. The Ingenieur is already a very distinctive design, and creating it in ceramic could easily have changed the proportions or feel of the watch, but IWC managed to retain what makes the current Ingenieur work while giving it a completely different feel on the wrist. IWC CEO Chris Grainger-Herr talked to us about this last year, and how much research and development went into making a 42mm-sized ceramic version to mirror the proportions, look and feel on the wrist as the standard steel 40mm. It was an interesting chat, which you can read all about here. It’s not easy being green, as the frog once said! But maybe, in this case, it is! Not content to rest on its laurels, IWC released a green ceramic version for Watches & Wonde...
Monochrome
First Look - Frederique Constant x French Foreign Legion, Two Limited Editions to Celebrate the Elite Unit
Founded in Geneva in 1988, Frederique Constant is now a globally respected name in watchmaking, offering classic designs at reasonable prices, with a growing portfolio of complications developed and assembled at its Plan-les-Ouates manufacture. Part of the Citizen Group since 2016, the brand was created by Peter Stas, who left his native Netherlands for Switzerland, […]
Hodinkee
The Business of Watches Podcast: Czapek & Cie. CEO And Co-Founder Xavier de Roquemaurel
This week on The Business of Watches, we sit down with the business leader who has headed the reborn Czapek & Cie. brand for more than a decade now. Xavier de Roquemaurel didn't come from the watch industry when he co-founded Czapek with fellow entrepreneur Harry Guhl, with help from watchmaker Sébastien Follonier, in 2015. He's had to learn the industry on the job, and while Czapek burst on the scene by winning the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Public Prize in its debut year in 2016, the company and de Roquemaurel have faced plenty of challenges along the way. From the novel financing and shareholder model they created to fund the startup, to reckoning with a massive surge of back orders for their popular Antarctique integrated bracelet sports watch model during the boom times of the post-pandemic era, as well as serious health and medical ordeals. Reconsidering all the tests he and the company have faced, de Roquemaurel says he now believes that "adversity gets the best out of you." Today, Czapek has just opened a new boutique on the historic Quai des Bergues in Geneva on the same banks of the Rhône River where François Czapek himself had his first atelier in the 1800s. In a wide-ranging interview, the Czapek CEO traces both the path of the reborn brand and how it has found inspiration in the legacy of the watchmaker who opened what is believed to be the first watch boutique on Place de Vendôme in Paris while producing timepieces for Napoleon III and t...
Hodinkee
Staff Picks: The Watches We Wore This Summer
Summer is over. Okay, maybe not quite — there's still some hot weather to be wrung out over the next few weeks (although I have noticed more than a few sweaters being broken out around the Hodinkee office this week). Labor Day has come and gone, school has started, our white pants are put away for the season, and the carefree, relaxed days of summer are now largely behind us. With that in mind, I asked (read: pestered) a handful of my colleagues to find out what watches they had on their wrists this summer, and the answers didn't disappoint. DWC Terra Titanium [Mark Kauzlarich] If there's something you should know about a lot of us on the Hodinkee edit team, it's that we love a good bit. So, after I came out of anesthesia from my spinal fusion earlier this summer, I decided to buy a watch to suit the moment. Look, I'm not saying that James Stacey gatekept this from me, but when I saw the Delhi Watch Company Terra on his Instagram, I felt left out. Turns out, I'm not as chronically on "watch internet" as I should be, apparently, because everyone over in The Grey NATO-land was talking about this super cool, $47 titanium quartz-powered watch out of India, and I missed out. I missed out on all THIRTY THOUSAND of them, I might add (shows how little I'm in the loop), and people were charging an arm and a leg to get one. Image, James Stacey (Yes, he has one too) Until the bit came around, that is. I got curious after my surgery and dug through my surgical notes for the info abo...
Time+Tide
The scratch-resistant Héron Continental takes a beating so your wallet doesn’t have to
The Héron Continental combines vintage travel-watch style with a hardened 37mm steel case built for everyday wear.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
From Casio to Rolex: Our 16 Favorite Watches We Kept Wearing After the Review
Once the new-watch excitement faded, these were the pieces we still found ourselves reaching for again and again.
Monochrome
First Look - The New Ulysse Nardin Freak One Blue Enamel and Freak One Guilloché
With Rolf Schynder at the helm, Ulysse Nardin released an unorthodox timepiece in 2001 that smashed conventions and rewrote watchmaking in one fell swoop. With no dial, no hands and no crown, the Freak, master watchmaker Dr Ludwig Oechslin’s renegade watch, indicated time with its linear gear train featured on the dial. The Freak also […]
Fratello
Channeling My Inner Explorer With The Brand-New Héron Continental
Héron has slowly been expanding its catalog. Earlier this year, the young Montreal-based brand introduced updated versions of its Marinor dive watch, which Mike reviewed. Now, Héron is introducing the completely new Continental collection. It’s a series of three vintage-inspired sports watches that work well for daily wear thanks to their modern execution. I got […] Visit Channeling My Inner Explorer With The Brand-New Héron Continental to read the full article.
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie.’s Off-Grid Bares All
Following last year’s Streamliner Alpine Mechanics Edition made for the Alpine F1 team, H. Moser & Cie has just released its second smartwatch, this time with a unique take on the genre. The Off-Grid offers a streamlined set of programmed complications designed to occupy in the space between a mechanical watch and a smartwatch. In doing so, the Off-Grid eschews common functions like health tracking and notifications, allowing its full feature set to be accessed with or without a smartphone connection. The offline theme explains its most unusual complication, a built-in dictionary of 10 words in each of 21 different languages. Initial thoughts At first glance, the 1980s-style ana-digi display may feel more at home in a G-Shock or Seiko ‘Arnie’ than a Swiss luxury watch, though Moser is hardly the first Swiss brand to give the format a go. The Breitling Aerospace debuted more than 40 years ago, and Omega later introduced the ana-digi Speedmaster X-33 in 1998. But unlike the aforementioned, Moser’s choice to put the module on show beneath a semi-open-worked dial is a unique approach and reveals the brand’s mechanical watchmaking instincts. With the Off-Grid, Moser is trying to find the middle ground between mechanical and electronic watchmaking that offers the benefits of both worlds but without all the downsides — like constant notifications and fast-draining batteries. The “Off-Grid” moniker sums up the effort, both in terms of its autonomy and its conceptua...