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Wear this Pride-themed Swatch in Malaysia and you face a three-year jail term Time+Tide
Swatch Aug 11, 2023

Wear this Pride-themed Swatch in Malaysia and you face a three-year jail term

A couple of weeks ago, T+T reported how Swatch were suing the Malaysian government after it seized 172 of their watches from stores. The reason for the seizure?  The watches, which come in either rainbow colours or a single colour with a rainbow trim, were released in support of Pride, the movement that promotes the … ContinuedThe post Wear this Pride-themed Swatch in Malaysia and you face a three-year jail term appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New releases from Studio Underd0g, Omega and more Time+Tide
Omega Jul 29, 2023

New releases from Studio Underd0g, Omega and more

These last seven days have been full of events in the watch industry, from controversial, vintage-inspired releases, to Omega starting the countdown to the 2024 Olympics. And for the first time, a furniture and lighting company surprisingly joins the list: we are very curious to see how that one will evolve. Enjoy! Raymond Weil Freelancer … ContinuedThe post New releases from Studio Underd0g, Omega and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Petermann Bédat Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Petermann Bédat Jul 20, 2023

In-Depth: Petermann Bédat Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph

Having made its debut in 2020 with the 1967 deadbeat seconds, Petermann Bédat recently unveiled its second watch, the Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph. The 2941 lives up to the benchmark established by its predecessor with a traditionally-styled movement that is decorated to an impressive degree, albeit one that reflects constraints in its development. The brand’s founders, Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, are both watchmakers in their early 30s who studied watchmaking in Geneva before a stint at A. Lange & Söhne. The pair also spent time carrying out restorations of vintage watches. Their shared experience is illustrated in the 2941, most notably in the traditional decoration and styling of the movement. Initial thoughts When Petermann Bédat made its debut in 2020 with the 1967, a time-only with deadbeat seconds, independent watchmaking was a much less crowded space. As a result, the 1967 stood out for both its intrinsic qualities, namely excellent finishing and traditional mechanics, but also the fact that it was fairly novel. Now time-only watches with seemingly good finishing seem to be everywhere, most of which are even similar to the Petermann Bédat profile in having founders in the their 30s and 40s. So Petermann Bédat did well in introducing a following up with something more complicated for its second model. The 2941 continues with the aesthetics of the 1967, essentially a modernised “sector” dial, and also the movement finishing. The quality...

New releases from TAG Heuer, Seiko, A. Lange & Söhne and more Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Seiko Jul 15, 2023

New releases from TAG Heuer, Seiko, A. Lange & Söhne and more

Welcome to this new weekly column! Each week, we will recap some of the best watch releases of the previous seven days.  Whether novelties they’re novelties we have had the good fortune of going hands-on with, introduced, or even releases we have yet to cover in full on the site, we aim to recap the … ContinuedThe post New releases from TAG Heuer, Seiko, A. Lange & Söhne and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zodiac Adds a White Ceramic Super Sea Wolf to the Collection in Three Bold Colorways Worn & Wound
Zodiac Adds Jul 10, 2023

Zodiac Adds a White Ceramic Super Sea Wolf to the Collection in Three Bold Colorways

At the end of last year, Zodiac introduced a new ceramic version of their popular Super Sea Wolf dive watch. The stealthy black diver put a new, contemporary spin on a platform that’s existed for almost as long as dive watches themselves, and felt like a natural evolution of the Sea Wolf line. After all, plenty of brands are using ceramic these days – it’s a worthy material by any measure and makes a lot of sense for sports watches in particular, given its light weight and resistance to scratches and wear. Now, Zodiac has introduced a follow up, a ceramic Super Sea Wolf in a crisp white with brightly colored dials, just in time for the true dog days of summer.  These watches play into a tried and true formula that has served Zodiac remarkably well over the last years, which is to lean into bold colors layered over their classic dive watch design. The new white ceramic watches will be available in three variants: dark blue, lime green, and a silver and orange watch that feels like a nod to their popular “Sherbet” GMT from a few years ago. All of the dials have a subtle sunburst finish and the traditional rectangular hands and hour markers that are common to the Super Sea Wolf line. The case construction is the same as last year’s black ceramic model, which means these watches have what is essentially a ceramic shell that is fit over a steel core. The white color of the case and bezel makes for a great complement to the bold dial colors and accents, and immediat...

Dubai police turn Rolex rescuers to salvage Yacht-Master from ocean floor Time+Tide
Rolex rescuers Jul 5, 2023

Dubai police turn Rolex rescuers to salvage Yacht-Master from ocean floor

A few days ago, Hamid Al Ameri was partying with mates on a yacht in the waters off Palm Jumeirah in Dubai. At some stage, one of the group decided to go for a swim and jumped off the side of the boat. Somehow his watch came off his wrist as he entered the water … ContinuedThe post Dubai police turn Rolex rescuers to salvage Yacht-Master from ocean floor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bravur Releases the La Grande Boucle III Chronograph, their Latest in an Ongoing Series of Cycling Inspired Watches Worn & Wound
Bravur Jul 4, 2023

Bravur Releases the La Grande Boucle III Chronograph, their Latest in an Ongoing Series of Cycling Inspired Watches

Every year, the Tour de France captivates the imagination and competitive spirit of those who are interested in cycling. While many Americans probably associate the sport with Lance Armstrong, there is an entire population of cycling enthusiasts who watch with bated breath as some of the top athletes in the sport traverse 2,115 miles over 23 days across France. It’s a spectacle of dedication, athleticism, and, yes, a bit of national pride. Swedish watch brand Bravur has tapped into the enthusiasm of the sport with the release of their series of watches dedicated to the Grand Tours, the top three most prestigious cycling events of the year. With the 2023 Tour de France upon us, Bravur has just released their third edition of Le Grand Boucle. The latest in the series to honor the Gallic event, Bravur has taken design elements of previous versions, while making the Le Grand Boucle III entirely new.  Starting with the visuals, the latest from Bravur is a vibrant pairing of yellow (long associated with the Tour winner) and a ceramic black coating on the case, giving it a sporty look that still remains sophisticated. The small details of this watch show that Bravur has done their homework, including the frosted white dial features and dot markers, reminiscent of the legendary polka dot patterns found on the King of the Mountains jersey, awarded to the race’s top climber. Further design themes that nod to the Tour’s history include an inverted “13” on the chapter ring,...

Getting Hands On With The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni WatchAdvice
Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni Jun 29, 2023

Getting Hands On With The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni

The new Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni (8 Days) is a surprising watch and wearing it for a couple of weeks made me seriously consider the piece. But, not for the reasons I thought when I first saw the press release earlier this year! What We Love Vintage styled design aestheticGreat wearing, slim case profileThe textured, smoked gradient dial What We Don’t Case is a little too darkNo date (personal preference)Wire lugs take a little getting used to Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for money: 8.5/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 When Panerai released the new Radiomir Otto Giorni (8 Days) back in March for Watches and Wonders, I was immediately drawn to it, the distressed case, the textured smoked dial and the classic Radiomir look. So when I had the option of what Panerai’s I’d like to review next, I immediately jumped at the Radiomir Otto Giorni in blue. The new Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni in blue First Impressions In my experience, press images and renders of watches either go one of two ways. They either make the watch look super cool and the actual piece is a little underwhelming in person, or it goes the other way – they really don’t do it justice at all. Laying eyes on the new Radiomir for the first time, my initial reaction was “This is not quite what I excepted!” but in a good way. The distressed steel was a little darker than expected, the case was thinner and the 45mm diameter case did not look or feel this big at all. And the texture...

Parmigiani Tonda PF Gets Revamped Sport Mode Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier may be known Jun 21, 2023

Parmigiani Tonda PF Gets Revamped Sport Mode

Nearly every luxury watchmaker is feeling the need to have a sporty collection or reference in their stable these days, much the same as some of the great sports car marques needing an SUV all of the sudden. It’s just practical. Just what makes a watch sport worthy is up for debate, but it generally comes with a bit of water resistance, the ability to absorb a shock or two, and a rubber or textile strap. Bright colors optional. In reality it means a watch that’s better suited to everyday wear, and goes with a broader selection of your wardrobe. The sporting element simply implies comfort and practicality. Parmigiani Fleurier may be known for their formal wear, but they’re no strangers to the sport watch, and this week, the Tonda line gets a completely revamped sport collection called the Tonda PF Sport.  The new Tonda PF Sport collection will be replacing the Tonda GT collection with the introduction of 4 references that span steel and rose gold within a time and date, and chronograph configuration. The new watches bring a tighter cohesion to the Tonda family overall, taking a cleaner approach to the theme. The biggest shift from the GT collection is the date migration away from the unique oversized 12 o’clock position, and into the more controversial 4:30 position on the chronograph, and the 6 o’clock position on the time and date model. The Tonda GT watches had plenty of quirks, from their date execution, to the month display of the calendar models labeled, qu...

De Bethune Debuts the DB28xs Starry Seas, a Smaller Version of their Signature Design with a Beautiful Ocean Inspired Dial Worn & Wound
De Bethune Debuts May 29, 2023

De Bethune Debuts the DB28xs Starry Seas, a Smaller Version of their Signature Design with a Beautiful Ocean Inspired Dial

The De Bethune DB28 is an absolutely insane watch. As I found out for myself in Geneva earlier this year, the watch’s large proportions play tricks on you: it’s enormous to the eye, but incredibly light on the wrist thanks to the titanium case construction and airy design with those patented hollowed out, articulating lugs. Even though this watch is the ultimate example of “It actually wears a lot smaller…” I think it’s understandable that collectors would call for a version that’s actually smaller, and that’s what De Bethune has delivered with the new DB28xs Starry Seas. This is essentially a scaled down version of the DB28 that incorporates a fantastic and first of its kind dial that applies guilloche in an entirely new way.  The centerpiece here is certainly the dial, which is made from heat blued titanium, taking on the dramatic bright blue shade that has become a De Bethune hallmark of sorts. The decoration is what De Bethune refers to as “random guilloche,” and they say this is the first time this technique has been used in a watch dial design. The cumulative effect is a dial that looks like ocean waves in motion, and it’s been accented with small white gold “stars” to create the impression of the night sky being reflected off the surface of a body of water. It’s a natural extension of other “Starry” De Bethune references, which typically depict a night sky view. The case will be familiar to those who know the DB28 (the lucky few). It...

Rolex Milgauss Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex May 26, 2023

Rolex Milgauss Guide

Rolex, as always, made news at Watches & Wonders Geneva back in April with many of the new watches it will be releasing this year (we covered many of them here), but the Swiss luxury brand generated nearly as much buzz with an announcement about a watch that it won’t be making anymore. Back in March, Rolex announced that the Milgauss, a model it had been making continuously since 2007, with roots that go back even further, would cease production this year. The news was not necessarily a shock to everyone - the Milgauss was not on a par with Rolex’s most popular models, waiting-list mainstays like the Daytona, Submariner, and GMT-Master - but it was a disappointing splash of reality to the subgroup of Rolexistas who love the cult-classic antimagnetic watch, while also serving as a call to attention for watch-market speculators who rarely find a Rolex shortage that they aren’t eager to monetize. What makes the Milgauss such a niche favorite in the Rolex portfolio? Read on. Rolex founder Hans Wisdorf (above) could be described as many things: a visionary entrepreneur, a brilliant marketer, a founding father of the modern watch industry. But at his true core, Wilsdorf was essentially a problem solver. Just about every contribution that he and his company made to horological history sprang from a dedication to fixing or eliminating some issue that plagued watch wearers. Too tedious to wind your watch every day? Here’s the Perpetual movement (below). Your watch isn...

Highlights: “The Ultimate Collection” at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts We round May 18, 2023

Highlights: “The Ultimate Collection” at Christie’s Hong Kong

Having concluded its Geneva sales that included an F.P. Journe thematic auction, Christie’s will soon open its spring sale season in Hong Kong. The auctioneer’s watch offerings include an impressive line-up of watches assembled over two decades by an Asian collector. Christened The Ultimate Collection, the selection is composed of 107 timepieces – almost all modern – ranging from Rolex to F.P. Journe. Although the watches are diverse, the collector’s keen eye can be discerned. The catalogue includes classic must-haves like various examples of the Rolex Daytona and GMT-Master II, but also rare and special watches from F.P. Journe as well as possibly-unique Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts. We round up nine notable picks from the sale, including the headline lots from F.P. Journe – a Chronomètre à Résonance “RTA” with a mother-of-pearl dial and the Tourbillon Souverain Coeur de Rubis. The “Coeur de Rubis” dial Other highlights including a Patek Philippe Dome Clock that was originally owned by Jean-Claude Biver of Hublot and Blancpain fame, along with uncommon variants of the landmark Lange 1, including the Lange 1A and ref. 101.027X. The Ultimate Collection takes place on May 26 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) – the catalogue is available here. Lot 2537 – F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain Anniversaire “Hong Kong”  In 2016, F.P. Journe marked the 10th anniversary of its first ever boutique (which was in Tokyo) with the ...

Highlights: The Artisanal and Complicated at Phillips’ Hong Kong SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Audubon” featuring May 17, 2023

Highlights: The Artisanal and Complicated at Phillips’ Hong Kong

After round up the best examples of independent watchmaking on offer at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI, let’s turn to notable complications and artisanal timepieces in the sale that takes place on May 24 and 25.  Amongst the highlights are easy choices like the Patek Philippe ref. 5016P, the most complicated watch made by the Geneva watchmaker at the time of its launch. Others might go under the radar (and perhaps be good buys), like the Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Mystérieuse with its transparent time display and floating hands. As for the artisanal, a highlight is undoubtedly the Vacheron Constantin “Audubon” featuring a cloisonné dial done by the famed Anita Porchet, arguably the best enameller in watchmaking.  Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be accessed here.  Lot 836: Vacheron Constantin “Birds of America” ref. 43060/000J-8434  by Anita Porchet Enamelling at its highest level is an art form equal to the best of complicated watchmaking. Amongst Vacheron Constantin’s earliest but also best known enamelled watches is the series inspired by drawings from Birds of America by John-James Audubon. The 19th century American naturalist documented most of the continent’s birds in the landmark tome, the pages of which served as inspiration for the series of watches. For the “Birds of America” series, Vacheron Constantin turned to the best enamelers of the day, including Muriel Sechaud and of course Anita Porchet. Going by t...

Omega Introduces New References in their Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer Collection, Including One in Titanium Worn & Wound
Omega Introduces New References May 16, 2023

Omega Introduces New References in their Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer Collection, Including One in Titanium

Omega began teasing a new watch on their social media channels in the last few days, and while it was immediately pretty clear we’d be getting a new Worldtimer of some sort, the finer details were very much left a mystery. The existing Worldtimer has become a bit of a cult favorite since its release. It has a truly useful complication, and a dial that is undeniably stunning when you see it in person. The representation of earth as viewed from above the North Pole is a worldtimer trope, and there are a lot of ways to execute it, but few brands give you the detail that Omega can. That said, the watch has always been a little on the large side, and a new colorway is always welcome. Speculation ensued that a smaller version of the Worldtimer might be hitting boutiques, but what we got instead is a material change, along with a hard lean into green, which might no longer be the color of the moment, but seems to suit this particular watch just fine.  What we have in this release is actually a trio of new watches: two references in stainless steel (one on a bracelet, the other a strap), and a completely new version of the watch in titanium. Let’s tackle the steel watches first. These follow the same 43mm format as the existing Worldtimer (the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer, to be more precise), but substitute the familiar blue dial for one in a PVD coated green. The dials here have a light sun-brushed finish, and dial accents (hands and hour markers) are in Moonshine Gold. ...

HANDS-ON: The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans & Ripples Date bring new colour and complication Time+Tide
Speake-Marin May 10, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans & Ripples Date bring new colour and complication

These days, for a manufacture not to have an integrated watch design is a bit like not having a smartphone. Sure, there may be a bit of respect for these flip-phone manufactures resisting the trend and times. But, ultimately, in the midst of the craze, having a solid integrated sports watch within a manufacture portfolio … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans & Ripples Date bring new colour and complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

An Unexpected Dive into the World of De Bethune Worn & Wound
De Bethune When you go Apr 20, 2023

An Unexpected Dive into the World of De Bethune

When you go to Watches & Wonders, you hope to have an experience like the one Zach Weiss and I did with De Bethune. The Geneva based brand was actually not exhibiting at the show, but had space in the Beau Rivage hotel, right on the lake, along with a dozen or so other independent brands, all taking good advantage of the watch world absolutely descending on the city for an entire week. I have long been an admirer of De Bethune, but always from afar. They are not the easiest indie to get your arms around, both literally and figuratively. The watches are very rare and hyper specific in their design language, and for a long time I had the sense that they might appeal to exactly the 200 or so people per year that are able to obtain a new piece, no more no less. But then the last three years happened, and every independent brand took off like a rocket ship, and since De Bethune watches kind of look like rocket ships to begin with, their rise was perhaps even steeper. The DB Eight Monopusher We were there, ostensibly, to see two watches. The brand’s latest novelties both happen to be more classically styled than the avant-garde pieces they’ve become known for. The DB Eight monopusher chronograph is about as classic as it gets. The case design, with those flared lugs, is based on the DB1, the very first De Bethune, also a chronograph. This one, though, has a brand new caliber and is fashioned from grade 5 titanium as opposed to solid gold. While the aesthetic of the watch is ...

Editorial: Happenings Around the Halls of Watches & Wonders SJX Watches
Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour Apr 5, 2023

Editorial: Happenings Around the Halls of Watches & Wonders

With the demise of Baselworld shortly before the pandemic and the evolution of SIHH into Watches & Wonders (W&W;), the Geneva fair is now the most important watch event on the planet. Having just closed, W&W; recorded massive visitor numbers and unexpectedly buoyant sentiment amongst industry executives. Despite the implosion of Credit Suisse the week before and assorted troubles around the world, sentiment at the fair amongst industry insiders was robust, catching most by surprise. Brands executives indicated orders from retailers were good as was interest from clients, and expressed optimism for the coming year. Pessimism was hard to find, although a handful of well-placed individuals high up in important brands quietly pondered what things would look like in six months – the health of components suppliers to the industry will provide a clue. The irony is that brands run by such thoughtful individuals are usually the best placed to weather any downturn. Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour (left), who is also the chairman of the W&W; foundation Everyone wants a look To anyone who was at Watches & Wonders (W&W;), the most tangible fact was the enormous and occasionally unmanageable crowd. According to its organisers, visitors numbered 43,000, compared to just 22,000 last year. Unsurprisingly, the celebratory mood of the organisers was clear in the closing announcement for the event. However, the preparations for the jump in visitors were clearly insufficient because ...

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition Time+Tide
Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS Mar 27, 2023

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS honours the Alps further with a Monte Rosa inspired dial. The calibre L.U.C 96.40-L is only 3.3mm thick, with the watch totalling 8mm. It’s also the second of Chopard’s movements to be granted a Geneva Seal, the first being the Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon. If you want to see … ContinuedThe post The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How The World's Most Accurate Watches Are Made Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 24, 2023

How The World's Most Accurate Watches Are Made

Nearly every advance in watchmaking technology has been in the service of increased utility and functionality - even inventions that we now consider entirely luxurious affectations. The minute repeater, for example, was invented so a watch wearer could audibly check the time in the dark in the days before luminous treatment on dials. Even the tourbillon began its existence as a device for enhancing timekeeping accuracy, countering the effects of gravity on a pocketwatch’s movement. Thus it should come as no surprise that as the world entered the electronic era in the mid-20th century, watchmakers would attempt to harness the new technologies to improve the precision - and hence the desirability - of their products. Read on as we trace the evolution of timekeeping technology all the way up through today’s most accurate watches.  Birth of the Chronometer Not long after the tracking of time migrated from giant clocks in the town square to portable devices carried in waistcoat pockets, and eventually worn on wrists (click here for a brief history of watches), the need for a standard of dependable accuracy in these mechanical timekeepers became evident. Hence the establishment of standards for which a timepiece could be deemed a "chronometer." The classical definition of a chronometer goes all the way back to the golden age of seafaring exploration in the 18th Century, when ships required the use of a highly accurate onboard clock that enabled their navigators to det...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Mar 22, 2023

Time to Pack Episode 2: My Watches & Wonders Airplane Travel Kit

We here at Worn & Wound are extremely excited to be attending, once again, Watches & Wonders in Geneva. It’s perhaps the biggest watch event of the year and a first for Kat Shoulders, our media production manager. Flying internationally can be a challenging and stressful time, but Kat has a pretty darn good kit to get her through a long day of flying. From the perfect bag, a useful watch, and a few interesting gadgets, she takes us through what she’ll be carrying on her flight! ​​ This episode is made possible by our friends at Camera West. They have graciously lent Kat the new Panasonic LUMIX S5II to take with her on the trip. Camera West carries many different camera options from Leica, Fujifilm, Sony, and more, but they actually recommended the S5 II for her Watches And Wonders adventure over the other options on the market with the biggest feature being the L-mount alliance making it compatible with Sigma, Leica, and other Panasonic lenses.  Get all the details on Kat’s packing style and her professional tools, along with her very own gear hacks and tricks of the trade. We hope that Time to Pack will be that kind of content you didn’t even know you needed-watch-based content that delves into travel gear and packing in rich and robust ways. Enjoy! Learn more about Camera West and the Panasonic LUMIX S5II. The post Time to Pack Episode 2: My Watches & Wonders Airplane Travel Kit appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Breitling Have Beefed Up Their Top Time Line Just Ahead Of Watches & Wonders WatchAdvice
Breitling Have Beefed Up Their Mar 22, 2023

Breitling Have Beefed Up Their Top Time Line Just Ahead Of Watches & Wonders

Last month, Breitling held a very special event for a handful of watch enthusiasts, and Watch Advice was there to get a great hands on experience with the new Top Time line up, and see how this collection with the new B01 movements and new Thunderbird model felt in person, and most importantly, how they sat on the wrist! With less than a week to go until the watch world descends on Geneva, Breitling have dropped a revised line up of their Top Time collection, with new beefed up specs and adding a new model to the muscle car line up – the Ford Thunderbird, to sit alongside the Mustang, Cobra and Corvette. Watch Advice, along with with a handful of passionate collectors had the pleasure of getting under the hood of the new models (yes there will be many car references in this article, so brace yourself!), and testing them out in person. The Breitling Top Time Collection – Left to Right: Ford Thunderbird, Chevrolet Corvette, Ford Mustang & Shelby Cobra “The Top Time represented a break from traditional watch design for a generation that was breaking with convention in every way… We are going after that sense of freedom and fun with the 1960s-inspired Top Time Classic Cars collection”Georges Kern – Breitling ceo The Top Time collection was released in 2021 with three models – the Mustang, Corvette and Cobra. This year, Breitling have introduced the Ford Thunderbird to the collection, and alongside this, dropped a new engine into them with the new in house calibre...