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Geneva Watch Days 2026: the 10 releases worth knowing so far

From a chronograph-free Zenith El Primero to a €390,000 Gerald Genta minute repeater, ten of the watches that actually landed at Geneva Watch Days 2026.

Girard-Perregaux Presents a Pair of Laureato Watches for the Williams F1 Team Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Presents Sep 22, 2026

Girard-Perregaux Presents a Pair of Laureato Watches for the Williams F1 Team

Last month, Girard-Perregaux announced its latest involvement in the Formula 1 scene with the Atlassian Williams F1 Team. We knew a collaborative watch would soon follow, and the moment has unfolded. Here, we get the debut duo of watches in the new Laureato Williams Edition lineup. If you’ve been reading my take on timepieces for a while, you know I’m a longtime fan of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. In the vast world of integrated bracelet sport watches, I’ve always found it to be one of the most refined and easily dressed up while remaining subtle and effortless enough for daily wear. With these new interpretations of the iconic design for the Atlassian Williams F1 Team, we get some of the sportiest takes on the model, proving the Laureato offers a versatile canvas that can truly embody both the “luxurious” and “sporty” sides of the luxury sport watch. As the brand’s flagship line, the Laureato has long served as the foundation for Girard-Perregaux’s collaborations and has taken many sizes, styles, and shapes over the years. However, the choice of this particular collection for the debut models in partnership with the Atlassian Williams F1 Team runs deeper. The Laureato was born in 1975, and the Atlassian Williams F1 Team was born just two years later in 1977, giving the duo roughly 50 years of shared history and evolution. Girard-Perregaux brings us two iterations for its inaugural line honoring the partnership: a chronograph alongside a classic time an...

A Deep-Diving Legacy: Squale Introduces The Galeazzi Artiglio Fratello
Squale Sep 22, 2026

A Deep-Diving Legacy: Squale Introduces The Galeazzi Artiglio

Squale and underwater-tech manufacturer Drass Galeazzi mark the centenary of Roberto Galeazzi’s 1926 patent with the Galeazzi Artiglio. This is a vintage-inspired dive watch with a 600m depth rating and a neat trick up its sleeve. Galeazzi’s patented “spherical-zone structure” helped advance deep-sea exploration. It created a way for underwater vessels and equipment to withstand […] Visit A Deep-Diving Legacy: Squale Introduces The Galeazzi Artiglio to read the full article.

Introducing: Marathon x Watches of Espionage Titanium SAR Hodinkee
Ming from Sep 22, 2026

Introducing: Marathon x Watches of Espionage Titanium SAR

What We Know Marathon Watches, the Canadian watch brand best known for its line of military-issued and -inspired watches, and Watches of Espionage, the online journal that has made a name for itself exploring the very tangible connection between watches and militaries around the world, have teamed up to launch a new watch that's sure to grab attention: The Marathon x W.O.E. Titanium SAR. The new watch, which officially launches this Thursday, includes a host of firsts for both Marathon and Watches of Espionage. For Watches of Espionage, which launched five years ago and is run by a secretive (some might say "sketchy") former CIA Case officer, the Marathon x W.O.E. Titanium SAR is a first venture into the world of collaborative watches. For Marathon, the fourth-generation family-run company with a slightly longer history than Watches of Espionage, the Marathon x W.O.E. Titanium SAR is the brand's first foray into titanium watches. On the surface, the new watch won't seem like much of a departure for Marathon, especially to those familiar with the brand's past offerings. The new watch draws heavily on the original Marathon SAR, first released in 2001, but modernizes the package and brings Grade 5 titanium to the table for the first time. Like other SAR watches from Marathon (such as the GSAR, TSAR, or OSAR-D), the new watch measures 41mm across, 48mm lug-to-lug, and 14mm thick, with much of that thickness coming from the toothy bezel. Just because this watch feels familiar d...

Grand Seiko Introduces the SBGW325 ‘Arabic Blue’ Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Introduces Sep 22, 2026

Grand Seiko Introduces the SBGW325 ‘Arabic Blue’ Limited Edition

On the surface, the new Grand Seiko SBGW325 ‘Arabic Blue’ Limited Edition is almost aggressively normal. This is a 37mm dress watch that is part of a well established line for the Japanese brand with a tried and true 9S64 manually wound movement. Grand Seiko has made a bunch of these over the years in an endless series of dial variants, often in limited editions made for specific regions, tied to ADs, or to highlight different aspects of Japanese culture. So why does the SBGW325 feel almost confrontational in its boldness? The answer lies right there in the name of the watch. It is so incredibly rare for Grand Seiko to use Arabic numerals on their watch dials, that a watch built around them feels like it’s from another planet, or an alternate reality.  For that reason, I think the SBGW325 is probably destined to be some kind of cult classic. This isn’t a judgment based on the success of the visual design of the watch (though I do quite like it), but more a comment on how the Grand Seiko community will seize on this reference as a special thing and hang to it, probably for years. Mark my words: there will be collectors who miss out on this watch, and forlornly make “WTB” posts on Reddit and elsewhere in search of one well into the 2030s. Let’s see if I’m right.  You can set your reminders on your smart phone to DM me in October 2033 to check my work. For now, let’s take a closer look at the SBGW325, which becomes available through Grand Seiko channels ne...

Exploring New Territory With The 42mm Panerai Luminor PAM01710, PAM01711, And PAM01714 Fratello
Panerai Luminor PAM01710 PAM01711 Sep 22, 2026

Exploring New Territory With The 42mm Panerai Luminor PAM01710, PAM01711, And PAM01714

Ask watch fans about typical Panerai characteristics, and one of the first things they’ll mention is size. The watches’ large cases have become synonymous with the brand, along with Panerai’s iconic design style, sandwich dials, and the signature crown-protection bridge. But what if you like the Luminor but can’t pull off a 44mm or 47mm […] Visit Exploring New Territory With The 42mm Panerai Luminor PAM01710, PAM01711, And PAM01714 to read the full article.

First Look - The Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table “The Metamorph Merlin” Monochrome
Roger Dubuis Knights Sep 22, 2026

First Look - The Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table “The Metamorph Merlin”

In 2005, Roger Dubuis launched the Excalibur, an imposing 45mm watch that established many of the key aesthetic traits and mechanical audacity that characterise the “hyper horology” the brand practises today. The Knights of the Round Table collection, introduced in 2013, was conceived as a celebration of métiers d’art and took the Arthurian legend to […]

Insight: Screw-Down Showdown SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Sep 22, 2026

Insight: Screw-Down Showdown

Mechanical movements attract most of the technical interest in watchmaking, but considerable engineering also goes into keeping them dry. For an everyday watch, the waterproof construction of the case and crown is central to its reliability, yet the way these components keep water out is often misunderstood. Screw-down crowns and case backs are widely regarded as the best way to seal a watch. But the choice is not always straightforward. On a hand-wound watch, for example, a screw-down crown must be unscrewed and tightened regularly, adding an extra step to winding and potentially compromising the threads. The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, on the other hand, features a conventional crown and is rated to 50 m. Even so, some owners remain wary of exposing it to more than an occasional splash. So the question is, how much protection can a conventional crown provide, and what does a screw-down construction add? To understand the distinction, we take a closer look at the crown, its tube and the gaskets that form the seal. As a disclaimer, this discussion concerns modern watches with seals in good condition; vintage watches and those long overdue for service should be checked for waterproofness prior to contact with water. A common misconception The actual waterproofness of a joint relates to the uniformity of the seal pressure. In this case, “waterproofness” is used broadly as the ability of a mechanical joint to keep water from seeping in under normal functioning conditions...

Introducing - Hamilton Unveils new Khaki Field Model for Call of Duty Modern Warfare 4, In-Game and on the Wrist Monochrome
Hamilton Unveils new Khaki Field Sep 21, 2026

Introducing - Hamilton Unveils new Khaki Field Model for Call of Duty Modern Warfare 4, In-Game and on the Wrist

When it comes to watch inspirations, automotive and aviation themes have long been part of the game. Video games, however, are catching up. We have already seen retro legends like Donkey Kong and Mario find their way onto dials, Seiko team up with Street Fighter V, and, just a few months ago, Omega brought the […]

Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. Off-Grid (Live Pics) Hodinkee
H. Moser & Cie Off-Grid Live Sep 21, 2026

Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. Off-Grid (Live Pics)

What We Know Last year, I wrote about Moser's interesting play in its ongoing partnership with Formula 1 team Alpine Motorsports, when it introduced a pair of Streamliners, including its first ana-digi effort in the Streamliner Mechanics Edition. Developed with Sequent, a Swiss watch brand focused on producing its own self-charging smartwatches, Moser revealed this (not self-charging) new Streamliner as a connected watch for the Alpine mechanics team. For the general public, Moser released a 500-piece run of the Mechanics Edition watch. That edition was evidently successful enough for Moser to follow up with two new references of this ana-digi Streamliner, in a collection called the Off-Grid. And yes, the irony is not lost on me that any of Moser's mechanical creations are, in principle, way more "off-grid" than a watch you need to recharge. Moser leans into that kind of stuff, and it wouldn't be surprising to me if this was at least partially tongue-in-cheek. But I digress. The Streamliner silhouette on these new Off-Grid watches, with a diameter of 42.6mm and height of 14.4mm, certainly should feel familiar at this point. The diameter seems intimidating, but there is a very compact lug-to-lug fit here, given that there are no lugs to really speak of; rather, the strap attaches directly to the case (see how it looks on my 6.5" wrist). There are two versions here, both in steel—one with a blue PVD coating and one with black. The blue PVD version, which feels much more in...

Introducing: Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW325 'Arabic Blue' Limited Edition Hodinkee
Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW325 Arabic Blue Sep 21, 2026

Introducing: Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW325 'Arabic Blue' Limited Edition

What We Know It's likely that very few people, save the Grand Seiko diehards, remember the first manually winding 9S caliber in the GS collection. A distinction within a distinction, it did set the stage for a number of deeply loved models and the eventual development of one of my favorite movements, the relatively recent 9SA4. But back in 2001, Grand Seiko launched the SBGW003, a relatively simple-looking watch with an opaline white dial and distinctive applied gold numerals. It might seem a bit anachronistic, but that's why Grand Seiko is honoring the 25th anniversary with a very modernized homage, the Elegance SBGW325 'Arabic Blue.' To be fair, the new SBGW325 looks so much newer because the original was also a tribute to the past, furthering the aesthetic divide. Now, the watch features a deep navy blue dial inspired by Japan's indigo craft heritage, with silver-toned hands and indices, including the distinctive applied numerals to honor the original. There's also a touch of gold, a reference to the original indices, I'd imagine, with the central seconds hand and GS logo. The serif on the numerals seems to have been softened a bit as well. The Zaratsu-polished stainless steel case measures 37.3mm by 11.7mm with a 44.3mm lug-to-lug, capped by a box-style crystal. The watch is limited to a 30m water resistance but comes with a display caseback through which you can see the 9S64 caliber movement. That gives a 72-hour power reserve running at 4Hz. But overall, the watch ma...

H. Moser expands digital offerings with new Streamliner OFF-GRID Time+Tide
H. Moser expands digital offerings Sep 21, 2026

H. Moser expands digital offerings with new Streamliner OFF-GRID

H. Moser & Cie unveils new analogue-digital display multi-functional timepiece with its Streamliner OFF-GRID With multiple practical functions including perpetual calendar, split-second chronograph, and vibrating alarm, the watch features an “OFF-GRID” mode, displaying a multilingual dictionary Available in two colourways, both versions are limited to 1,000 pieces, with priority access given to existing Moser clients. … Continued

Complicated Collectors: Lord Sandberg SJX Watches
Sep 21, 2026

Complicated Collectors: Lord Sandberg

This weekend’s results at Sotheby’s Hong Kong typify contemporary interest in independent watchmaking, and in special editions of series-produced watches. In contrast, the Sandberg Collection, assembled by former HSBC chairman Baron Michael Sandberg, paints a picture of another era of watch collecting, when elaborately decorated pocket watches and exotic automata ruled the auction room. The latest chapter in our Complicated Collectors series explores some of the most emblematic pieces of this extraordinary collection. Before it was dispersed at Antiquorum in 2001, the Sandberg Collection ranked among the most ambitious private assemblies of horological art formed in the latter half of the 20th century. Comprising over 400 timepieces, it reflected sustained engagement with both the mechanical and symbolic dimensions of watchmaking. Lord Sandberg, in his office in Hong Kong. Image – South China Morning Post The holdings spanned time and geography, from Geneva enamels and French musical complications to English automata and Islamic and Chinese adaptations, alongside early German and English forms, yet they build a coherent whole.  Instead of building around a single school or brand, Sandberg assembled a collection participating in a larger conversation: between European and Oriental markets, between religious and secular symbolism, and between utility and ornament. Lord Sandberg’s long residence in Hong Kong likely shaped both his access and his perspective. Chinese...

Auret Debuts With The Mederi Collection - Swiss Heart, Colombian Soul Fratello
Sep 19, 2026

Auret Debuts With The Mederi Collection - Swiss Heart, Colombian Soul

Auret’s inaugural collection, Mederi, gives the brand a personal starting point. Auret is a new name in watchmaking, but its idea is far more human than your usual “here’s our first watch.” The brand was founded in Colombia by an oncologist and watch enthusiast, with the concept built around a pretty simple observation: time is […] Visit Auret Debuts With The Mederi Collection — Swiss Heart, Colombian Soul to read the full article.

Bone-Chilling News: Charlie Adds Five Updated Concordia GMT Watches To Its Lineup Fratello
Sep 19, 2026

Bone-Chilling News: Charlie Adds Five Updated Concordia GMT Watches To Its Lineup

Arctic surfing — why not? And why not do it in style? Charlie, a small independent watch brand from Paris, adds five updated Concordia GMT watches to its lineup, and not only are they adventure-proof, but they also have a certain je ne sais quoi flair. It must be the subtle dial colors of the […] Visit Bone-Chilling News: Charlie Adds Five Updated Concordia GMT Watches To Its Lineup to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Straum Expedition Hodinkee
Straum Sep 18, 2026

Hands-On: The Straum Expedition

If wearing the Straum Expedition on and off for the last few weeks has reminded me of anything, it's this: It's been a little too long since I last had a good outdoor adventure. For me, 2025 was a year all about getting outside. So far, 2026 hasn't been. That's not necessarily a bad thing — I've sated my need for adventure in other ways this year, and I have found a few days here and there to climb a small mountain or two — but it is a thing, and the new Expedition from Straum has been a definite reminder of that, because this is a watch that's all about getting outside. To me, a watch's success comes down largely to intent. Put another way, does the execution of a watch line up with the story it's trying to tell? It's a harder needle to thread than you might expect, but when a brand gets the balance right, it's magic. Still, I do recognize that wearing a watch, especially a mechanical watch, in 2026 is largely an emotional affect, and most people don't actually need their watches to live up to the promise on the tin. That might help explain why there are so many "dive watches" on the market with minimal water resistance, or why I see so many people on the subway wearing fashion watches with fake pushers and subdials that seem to do nothing. And that's what makes a watch like the Straum Expedition so special—it is exactly what the brand claims it is. A (Very) Brief Primer On Straum If you already know Straum, it's probably thanks to the Jan Mayen. While the Jan Mayen...

Introducing the Apiar Carbon1.0 OG Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s new U.F.A movement Sep 18, 2026

Introducing the Apiar Carbon1.0 OG

Think about where we are in watchmaking in 2026. You could argue, pretty reasonably I think, that the problem of chronometry has basically been solved. We have access to mechanical watches that are accurate to seconds per month, and quartz watches that are accurate to seconds per year. There are advancements around the edges (Grand Seiko’s new U.F.A. movement comes to mind, the most accurate watch powered by a mainspring, accurate to 20 seconds per year), but it’s hard to imagine an advancement in timekeeping at this point that would actually be meaningful in our daily lives. For movement geeks, sure, shaving off seconds here and there will always be a fun new development, but for many we’ve reached a point of diminishing returns, where all that really matters are bragging rights by the brands (and those matter a lot – big marketing campaigns are built around them).  So where do the advancements come from in the years ahead? Many people with a lot more experience in this industry than me have discussed materials science as the next big step for watch brands, and we’ve certainly seen a lot of alternative materials used in cases and movements over the last few years. Once you go beyond the traditional steel, titanium, and precious metals that watch cases are normally made from, you open yourself up to manufacturing and creative options that are typically encountered across other industries, like the aerospace sector and medical manufacturing.  The UK based brand ...

Auctions: Rare And Unique White Gold Cartier Wristwatch Fetches Record $3.4 Million At Hong Kong Auction Hodinkee
Cartier Wristwatch Fetches Record $3.4 Sep 18, 2026

Auctions: Rare And Unique White Gold Cartier Wristwatch Fetches Record $3.4 Million At Hong Kong Auction

A Cartier Cheich, a rare wristwatch awarded as a prize to consecutive Paris-Dakar Rally winners, sold for a record $3.4 million in Hong Kong, becoming the most expensive Cartier wristwatch sold at auction. The record price underscores the surging interest among collectors and speculators for rare models and designs by the Paris-based watch and jewelry maison. One of only five known examples of the Cheich, the watch was produced by Cartier as a one-off, unique piece in 2010, cased in white gold and powered by a quartz movement.  Sold by Sotheby's on the first day of its 'Important Watches' auction in Hong Kong on Friday, the watch spurred a nine-minute bidding war with online, telephone and in-person bidders pushing the price to HK$26,520,000 including fees or about $3,413,124, Sotheby's said in a statement. The result eclipses the $2 million paid for a London Cartier Crash from 1991 at Christie's Geneva auction in May. That watch bested another Crash sold by Sotheby's just weeks before for about $1.99 million.  Cartier Cheich in white gold sold for about $3.4 million at Sotheby's Hong Kong auction.Image: Sotheby's Founded in 1978 by motorcycle racer Thierry Sabine, the Paris-Dakar Rally was a legendary motor sports race of endurance, navigation and mechanical engineering, spanning some 10,000 kilometers (6,214 miles) from the French capital across the Sahara desert to Dakar, Senegal. An early sponsor of the race, Cartier and the brand's then-president, Alain-Dominique P...

Hands-on - The Tudor Northflag, an Improved Successor to the North Flag, now with GMT Function Monochrome
Tudor Northflag Sep 18, 2026

Hands-on - The Tudor Northflag, an Improved Successor to the North Flag, now with GMT Function

First presented in 2015, the Tudor North Flag was an important watch for the brand. It introduced a new design, drawing on the angular, exploration-inspired character of the 1970s Ranger II, but its real significance was mechanical: it was the first Tudor fitted with a manufacture movement (calibre MT5621), itself the first Tudor movement visible […]

Review: the Stowa Fieldwatch Terra Worn & Wound
Stowa Sep 18, 2026

Review: the Stowa Fieldwatch Terra

More commonly found in the sky than the field, Stowa watches are well known for their lineup of classic Pilot’s watches. They’ve branched out a bit over the years, but the Pilot lineup is what comes to mind for me most often when thinking about the brand. Today, we’re taking a look at their modern take on the field watch, aptly named the Fieldwatch Terra. The Terra comes in at 38mm, features a PVD coated steel case, and an impressive spec sheet that makes for an excellent watch to complement your EDC. Let’s take a closer look. $950 Review: the Stowa Fieldwatch Terra Case PVD coated stainless steel Movement Sellita SW 200 Dial textured matte green Lume white and orange SuperLuminova Lens Sapphire Strap woven elastic nylon Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 38 x 46.9mm Thickness 11.5mm Lug Width 20mm Crown screw down Warranty yes Price $950 Case Measuring in at a very comfortable 38mm wide by 46.9mm lug-to-lug, the Terra complements my 6.75” wrist nicely. The compact proportions are balanced out by the relatively large, wide open, and highly legible dial. Now that I’m thinking about it a little bit more, the watch probably wears bigger than the measurements imply, and that’s due to the slim outer bezel and large dial. More on that later. The case itself is crafted from stainless steel and then treated with a dark grey PVD coating. PVD stands for physical vapor deposition — it’s a technique that turns a solid material (the coating) into a vapor, and then...

First Look - Singer Launches a New Collection with the 1970 DualTrack Monochrome
Singer Sep 18, 2026

First Look - Singer Launches a New Collection with the 1970 DualTrack

The high-end independent watch brand born from a passion for 1960s-1970s automotive design, Singer Reimagined was founded in 2017 by Rob Dickinson (of Singer Vehicle Design) and watch designer Marco Borraccino with motors produced by master watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (Agenhor). Departing from its lineup of track-ready chronographs, Singer introduced the DualTrack, a GMT with an […]

No Rush, Here’s The Anoma A1 Core Collection In Abyss Blue And Stone Gray Fratello
Anoma A1 Core Collection Sep 18, 2026

No Rush, Here’s The Anoma A1 Core Collection In Abyss Blue And Stone Gray

Microbrand watch releases can often be both fun and frustrating at the same time. You get all excited about the original design, the attractive price point, and the brand’s sympathetic founder. However, if there’s only a limited number of pieces available or a tight order window, you need to decide quickly, and that’s not always […] Visit No Rush, Here’s The Anoma A1 Core Collection In Abyss Blue And Stone Gray to read the full article.