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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Introducing – Junghans Updates the Popular Pilot Chronoscope Monochrome
Junghans Updates Sep 25, 2024

Introducing – Junghans Updates the Popular Pilot Chronoscope

In the mid-1950s, Junghans produced watches for the newly established German army following World War II. The pilot chronographs had rotating timing bezels and specifically the Bundeswehr (German armed forces) chronograph has become a bit of a legend, serving as the inspiration for two new Pilot Chronoscope models. They’re variants of the exisitng Meister Pilot […]

Hands-On With The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm In 18K Pink Gold Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Sep 25, 2024

Hands-On With The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm In 18K Pink Gold

It takes guts to walk around wearing a large, all-gold integrated-bracelet sports watch. This genre is not for the faint of heart. I like to think I’m fairly spunky, so I figured, “Why not?” I reached out to Girard-Perregaux and asked if I could try the latest gold Laureato 42mm models. When a rather weighty […] Visit Hands-On With The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm In 18K Pink Gold to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic In Its Ideal 36mm Size Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic Sep 24, 2024

Hands-On With The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic In Its Ideal 36mm Size

Every so often, the people at Parmigiani Fleurier send us a box with a few of their newer watches. This time, along with the new Toric models, it included a few variations of the brand’s Tonda PF. Our eyes were quickly drawn to the very impressive all-platinum Tonda PF Skeleton. The more sporty Chronographs on […] Visit Hands-On With The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic In Its Ideal 36mm Size to read the full article.

First Look – The Extraterrestrial Meteorite Dial of the De Bethune DB28XS Aérolite Monochrome
De Bethune DB28XS Aérolite Many Sep 24, 2024

First Look – The Extraterrestrial Meteorite Dial of the De Bethune DB28XS Aérolite

Many of De Bethune’s watches reveal master watchmaker Denis Flageollet’s passion for outer space. Who could forget his interplanetary delta-shaped spaceship known as the Dream Watch 5 or his heat-blued titanium models that evoke the mystery of our cosmos? Flageollet is also drawn to extraterrestrial materials like iron meteorites, particularly fragments of the famous Muonionalusta […]

The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: How The Invention of Balance Spring Changed the World Worn & Wound
Sep 24, 2024

The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: How The Invention of Balance Spring Changed the World

Editor’s Note: Today, we bring you the second part in the new series from Andrew Canter, the Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time. In this installment, Andrew examines the invention of the balance spring, a watchmaking advancement that not only charted a path for the watch industry, but can be said to have legitimately changed the world, enabling accurate, reliable, and portable timekeeping for the first time in human history. Who actually invented it, though, is still a matter of some debate, even after 350 years.  You can find more of Andrew’s work at the Mr. Watchmaster website here. Prior to the Balance Spring Early watches were powered by a verge escapement which was the same type of movement used in the early clocks. The verge is the earliest known type of mechanical escapement that controlled its rate by allowing the gear train to advance at regular intervals or ‘ticks’. Verge escapements were used from the late 13th century until the mid-19th century in clocks and pocket watches. Drawing of a verge escapement (bottom) and balance wheel (top) from an early pocket watch from an encyclopaedia c.1820 In the earliest watches a plain wheel, known as the balance, was used to control the rate of going of the mechanism. There wasn’t a consistent restoring force (such as a fusee), so consequently, its period of oscillation and, hence, the rate of the timekeeper were dependent on the driving force. Oval verge escapement watch movement by William Petit, Londo...

Under The Radar: The Omega Speedmaster Flight Qualified Pilot’s Watch Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Flight Qualified Pilot’s Sep 24, 2024

Under The Radar: The Omega Speedmaster Flight Qualified Pilot’s Watch

Last month, the Omega Speedmaster Flight Qualified pilot’s watch leaked on social media. Normally, we don’t respond to leaks or rumors, but the number of questions we received about this watch was (and still is) getting out of hand. At least for now, this new Omega Speedmaster pilot’s watch is only available to US military […] Visit Under The Radar: The Omega Speedmaster Flight Qualified Pilot’s Watch to read the full article.

Panerai’s Latest Collaboration with the NAVY SEALS Highlights the Submersible in Four Variations Worn & Wound
Panerai s Latest Collaboration Sep 24, 2024

Panerai’s Latest Collaboration with the NAVY SEALS Highlights the Submersible in Four Variations

Panerai has announced a quartet of watches made in partnership with the U.S. NAVY SEALS, a capsule collection meant to highlight the brand’s mission of crafting reliable, purpose driven watches. All of the models share an aesthetic link through the use of camo patterns and dial effects and are based on collector favorite references from the Submersible collection. In a catalog filled with burly, oversized watches, the Submersible line is perhaps the most outwardly sporty, reflecting a more contemporary approach to divers, chronographs, and GMTs than you might find in the brand’s more heritage focused lines. The first model to receive the Navy Seals treatment is the Submersible QuarantaQuattro NAVY SEALS PAM01518. As the name suggests, this one is based on their stainless steel 44mm Submersible. Instead of their regular lume application, this one features sand-colored SuperLuminova on the hands, markers, and lume pip on the bezel. It is equipped with the Panerai P.900 caliber in-house automatic movement, which operates at 28,800 beats per hour and boasts a substantial 3-day power reserve. “NAVY SEALS” is displayed on the dégradé black to anthracite dial at 6 o’clock. When the watch is flipped over, a beautifully engraved commemoration of the NAVY’s special forces team is revealed. It is rated for water resistance up to 300 meters. The second model is the Submersible QuarantaQuattro GMT NAVY SEALS Carbotech PAM01513. Similar to the previous model, this one is b...

First Look – The Titanium-Clad Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 3SPC.4 Monochrome
Chopard Sep 24, 2024

First Look – The Titanium-Clad Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 3SPC.4

ART IN TIME was founded in Monaco by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele in 2019, Co-President of Chopard and President of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. The gallery was established with the vision of creating a unique platform for watch aficionados, curating a select group of brands representing the pinnacle of independent watchmaking. To celebrate the 5th anniversary of the […]

A Hands-On Introduction To The Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Moonphase Fratello
Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Moonphase During Sep 24, 2024

A Hands-On Introduction To The Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Moonphase

During Geneva Watch Days, Frederique Constant introduced two high-end models with impressive special dials. Only a few weeks later, the brand now unveils a series of three quartz moonphase models in the more affordable segment. This move highlights the wide variety of watches the brand offers. Usually, the mechanical side of things is more relevant […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Moonphase to read the full article.

Hands-on – The Lovely, Accessible Alpina Heritage Automatic Monochrome
Alpina Heritage Automatic Sometimes simplicity Sep 23, 2024

Hands-on – The Lovely, Accessible Alpina Heritage Automatic

Sometimes simplicity is best, especially in the watch game, and Alpina proves that looking back at another era can be an aesthetic winner today. Many brands have vintage-inspired collections that pull from older, often historic models, so this is certainly nothing new. Alpina’s expanding Heritage collection, however, encapsulates the best of the brand with style, […]

The King Seiko “KSK” Line Grows Once Again, with Three New References Worn & Wound
Seiko KSK” Line Grows Once Sep 23, 2024

The King Seiko “KSK” Line Grows Once Again, with Three New References

When it comes to mastering the balance between refinement and artistry, does anyone do it better than Japanese watchmakers? King Seiko’s latest additions to the KSK line-up just proved my point. These three new references – the latest from the recently reintroduced Seiko spin-off brand – are inspired by the company’s roots in Kameido, Tokyo and show not only the beauty of the region, but speak to King Seiko’s history and technical precision. Each dial is something truly unique, bringing traditional Japanese patterns with color gradients. First on the list is SJE103, which takes the deep red of regional plums and turns it into a sanguine interpretation against the dial. SJE107 is a bit more subdued, with a purple gradient and a wisteria-brand pattern that’s subtle (some motifs of nature can be a little too on-the-nose, in my opinion, but this one balances between inspiration and interpretation well). And finally, my favorite, is SJE105, which has a turtle shell pattern and a rich blue dial, inspired by the local Sumida River in Kameido. Each watch runs on Seiko’s Caliber 6L35 automatic movement, offering a 45-hour power reserve. All references measure in at 38.6mm and are crafted from stainless steel with a matching bracelet, making for a dressy option that I think fits the motifs of the dial perfectly. Like other KSK references, these watches recall classic King Seiko case lines that will certainly appeal to vintage watch aficionados. They also serve as a rem...

The Olympian IWC Watch Designer Who Fought Nazis In The Skies Of Switzerland Fratello
Casio nal contributor Sep 23, 2024

The Olympian IWC Watch Designer Who Fought Nazis In The Skies Of Switzerland

This feature was researched with the help of Nic Barnes, who is a pilot, watch enthusiast, and occasional contributor for Watches of Espionage. Our thanks to the Schaffhausen City Archive and Schaffhauser Magazine for providing materials that greatly contributed to our research for this story. It is one about a remarkable man with connections to […] Visit The Olympian IWC Watch Designer Who Fought Nazis In The Skies Of Switzerland to read the full article.

First Look – The New and Mesmerizing ArtyA Purity Central Tourbillon Monochrome
Sep 23, 2024

First Look – The New and Mesmerizing ArtyA Purity Central Tourbillon

The brainchild of the prolific Yvan Arpa, independent brand ArtyA has carved a unique niche in the watch industry, thanks to its bold creativity and willingness to break away from convention. Among its many avant-garde creations, the Purity collection stands out for its relatively more understated aesthetic, featuring elegantly skeletonized movements displayed within transparent sapphire […]

What The World Needs Now Is More Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Variations Fratello
Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Variations Sep 23, 2024

What The World Needs Now Is More Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Variations

Call me old-fashioned, sentimental, or a man of great musical taste. In any case, I think the 1965 song “What the World Needs Now Is Love” written by Hal David and Burt Bacharach is a true gem. Some might consider the song a bit preachy, but people need to be preached to occasionally. Every time […] Visit What The World Needs Now Is More Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Variations to read the full article.

Hands-On With The 35mm Raymond Weil Millesime Models In Stainless Steel And Rose Tone Fratello
Raymond Weil Sep 23, 2024

Hands-On With The 35mm Raymond Weil Millesime Models In Stainless Steel And Rose Tone

Over the past year, we’ve grown quite fond of Raymond Weil’s Millesime collection. Lex first went hands-on with the GPHG-winning 39.5mm version. Then, Thomas took a few other variations for a spin. Those experiences led them to conclude that the Millesime collection is very modern and refined. Today, I’m looking at a few of the […] Visit Hands-On With The 35mm Raymond Weil Millesime Models In Stainless Steel And Rose Tone to read the full article.

Affordable Travel-Time with the Seiko Presage GMT Urushi Lacquer SJX Watches
Seiko Presage GMT Urushi Lacquer Sep 23, 2024

Affordable Travel-Time with the Seiko Presage GMT Urushi Lacquer

Seiko adds travel time functionality to its line of affordable dress watches with the Presage GMT Urushi Lacquer Dial SPB447. The new Presage is part of the Craftsmanship series that sports dials decorated with traditional Japan artisanal crafts ranging from lacquer to porcelain to enamel, and features glossy urushi lacquer dial to go along with the GMT function.  A key part of Japanese culture for millennia, urushi is obtained from the lacquer tree and used for a variety of applications, ranging from kitchenware to samurai armour. Here it is applied to the dial by hand at the workshop of urushi specialist Isshu Tamura, which was also responsible for lacquer dials on past Presage models. Initial thoughts The new GMT offers a similar value proposition as past Presage Craftsmanship models: the dial is decorated by skilled artisans, a feature typically associated with more expensive watches, but the price tag remains an affordable US$1,750. And it has the added bonus of a GMT, giving it an added dimension of utility compared to most Craftsmanship models that either have calendar or power reserve functions. The only downside is the fact that it’s not a “true” GMT with an independently adjustable hour hand, but that is the case for practically all GMT watches in this price range, so it doesn’t put the Presage GMT at a disadvantage relative to the competition. Urushi dial The Presage GMT sports a dial finished in black urushi, with the gilt markings on the dial done in...

Hands-On With The New White-Dial Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm Fratello
Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm Sep 22, 2024

Hands-On With The New White-Dial Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm

One of Hamilton’s biggest successes of recent years is the Khaki Field Murph. The watch became a fan favorite after it played a pivotal role in the 2014 blockbuster Interstellar. Then, in 2019, the Murph was released to the public in a 42mm version. Despite its great commercial success, most watch fans would have loved […] Visit Hands-On With The New White-Dial Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm to read the full article.