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Results for DLC and PVD Coating

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Introducing: The Bradley Taylor Ardea Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Level II service certification Apr 29, 2026

Introducing: The Bradley Taylor Ardea

What We Know Bradley Taylor, a Canadian independent watchmaker working out of a 1,000-square-foot workshop in North Vancouver, has released the Ardea, his third watch and first with an in-house movement. Taylor, a rising talent in the space, trained in Le Locle under Henrik Korpela, earned a Patek Philippe Level II service certification in Geneva, and produced two sold-out series before beginning work on the Ardea in late 2023. The Ardea is offered in stainless steel or platinum 950 and measures 37.8mm in diameter with a 46.4mm lug-to-lug and a thickness of 10.9mm, including the crystals. The sapphire caseback is very slightly domed for wrist comfort, and the watch is rated to 5 ATM.  The dial is 925 sterling silver, engine-turned on a rose engine that Taylor estimates is roughly 120 years old, and he restored it over three months. The pattern is a 36-scallop rosette with a progressive phase shift between each concentric pass, producing a characterful swirling texture. After the engraving, the dial is depletion-gilded, a silversmithing process that involves repeated heating and acid treatment until the dial's surface is pure silver. It is then sealed with Zapon lacquer. The text and markings are pad-printed on a Tampoprint machine that Taylor also restored himself. The applied numerals are machined from solid platinum and hand-polished to a spherical shape. The dial lettering and wordmark were designed by Ian Brignell, a Toronto typographer whose work includes the Paramou...

Farer Introduces New Watches in the Pilot Series Worn & Wound
Farer Introduces New Watches Apr 29, 2026

Farer Introduces New Watches in the Pilot Series

This month, I’ll be on 12 flights across four cities, two continents and nearly three weeks away from home, so – yeah – I’ve been thinking a lot about planes lately. Perhaps, quite coincidentally, Farer has been, too, with the launch of their new Pilot Collection Series II, with three new models debuting. The collection has been redesigned around a 40mm Grade 2 titanium case, with a bead-blasted finish and a brushed bezel with a coin-edge profile. Across the line, Farer keeps the focus on legibility and performance, using large markers, broad minute tracks and lozenge-shaped hands applied with Grade X2 Super-LumiNova.  Powering each watch is the Sellita SW300-1 Elaboré automatic movement, offering a 56-hour power reserve. Since cockpits can be highly magnetic environments, Farer has protected the movement with an internal soft iron Faraday cage, giving the watches anti-magnetic resistance up to 500 Gauss – these are the little details of Farer that go beyond just theming a watch and making it functional and operational to those that inspired the collection. The Curtis, named for English aviator and flight test engineer Eleanor Lettice Curtis, uses a blue-grey guilloché dial divided into twelve slightly concave sections, catching the light in a way reminiscent, as Farer notes, to the motion of a propeller. It has applied Lumicast markers, pale yellow lume and orange accents, with an additional Curtis Eastern Arabic edition limited to 100 pieces. The Barnwell is...

Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384 Gets A Tropical Overlay (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384 Gets Apr 29, 2026

Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384 Gets A Tropical Overlay (Live Pics)

What We Know Today, Zenith adds another variation of its modern revival of the unique A384 chronograph to its catalog, with the Chronomaster Revival A384 Tropical. This is, at a high level, just a new dial that's been added to the collection, and one that's done in a familiar Zenith way at that. Here, the inspiration is very much around tropical dials, with a base dial in a softly grained white, contrasted by brown accents in the subdials and tachymeter scale. Zenith calls it a "chocolate panda" configuration, and I think that's a pretty apt name. Text on the white portion of the dial is printed in black, including the "El Primero" script under the Zenith logo, while printing on the brown portions of the dial, such as the tachymeter and sundial markings, is all done in white. The aged, tropical theme continues with lume on the applied markers and handset executed in Old Radium Super-LumiNova, which certainly complements the warmth of the overall look. A bright red chronograph seconds hand sits front and center, and a date window sits between the four and five o'clock hour markers. The dial sits in that distinctive A384 case, with a compact, angular tonneau silhouette measuring 37mm. Pump pushers and a Zenith star-signed crown sit on the right flank of the case. Finishing is interesting throughout the watch, with radial brushing on the front slab of the case, polished facets, and horizontal brushing on the sides. It's complemented by Zenith's revival of the Gay Frères ladd...

Hands-on – The Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton 5840P Monochrome
Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Apr 29, 2026

Hands-on – The Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton 5840P

When Patek Philippe introduced the Cubitus collection in 2024, it drew fierce scrutiny. A square-shaped, angular evolution of the Nautilus concept, it challenged expectations. Yet, over successive releases, from the time-and-date references to the instantaneous grand date 5822P and the more compact 7128 models, the collection has settled into its role as Patek Philippe‘s modern sporty-chic […]

Chopard Cleverly Expands The Alpine Eagle Collection Once More Fratello
Chopard Cleverly Expands Apr 29, 2026

Chopard Cleverly Expands The Alpine Eagle Collection Once More

Chopard had another wonderful Watches and Wonders this year. The brand once again displayed a unique range of traditionally styled and modern-looking new releases, all refined and well considered. On top of that, the calibers are always impressive, both technically and visually. It always makes exploring the new additions to the brand’s catalog a nice […] Visit Chopard Cleverly Expands The Alpine Eagle Collection Once More to read the full article.

Photo Essay: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2026 Honours the Power of Nature SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2026 Honours Apr 29, 2026

Photo Essay: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2026 Honours the Power of Nature

As Watches & Wonders drew to a close, Patek Philippe opened its annual exhibition of Rare Handcrafts at its salon on Rue du Rhône. It was a peaceful escape from the hustle of the Palexpo, and the perfect setting to view several dozen pieces from the new collection, ranging from Dome Clocks to wristwatches and pocket watches. The exhibition is open to the public until May 9th. Attendance is free, but visitors must register in advance online. Dome Clocks Among the prevailing themes of this year’s collection, the power of nature featured prominently. The Dome Clock ref. 20202N-001 “Magma” is the perfect example. The organic composition is almost shocking in its simplicity and minimal palette of just five colours of transparent enamel — and just seven more used for miniature painting. The volcanic depiction is undeniably violent in a way that creates a pleasing tension with the controlled techniques employed to create it, including silver leaf paillonné and a needle technique for creating the lifelike look of the volcanic rock, outlined with more than 23 g of gold wire. Of course, fired enamel has a lot in common with magma. In short, this choice of molten medium contributes to the authenticity of the work. The glowing lava is mirrored on the dial with 12 large baguette-cut sapphire hour markers totaling about 3 cts. Like the other Dome Clocks featured, the Magma is powered by an electrically wound 17’’’ pocket watch movement that offers a look into the firm...

Early Audemars Piguet Single-Button Chronograph Wristwatch Emerges at Christie’s Geneva SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Single-Button Chronograph Wristwatch Emerges Apr 28, 2026

Early Audemars Piguet Single-Button Chronograph Wristwatch Emerges at Christie’s Geneva

One of the highlights in Christie’s upcoming Geneva auctions taking place on May 11, 2026, is the Audemars Piguet “Coussin Tortue” single-button chronograph wristwatch, serial number 41’849. It is an exceedingly rare watch, being one of a batch of three examples that were the first ever chronograph wristwatches made by Audemars Piguet (AP). Moreover, the watch has been in the same family since new, and is consigned by a descendent of the original owner who bought the watch in 1943. Also notably is the fact that this watch has been comprehensively – but sympathetically and artfully – restored by AP. This “cushion turtle” wristwatch has a platinum case and two-tone, solid gold dial, while the movement is a LeCoultre, just like the others in the batch of three watches. The first of the three was in white gold, following by two in platinum, including this example. Interestingly, this watch was delivered to retailer Veuve Louis Goering in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1937, but only sold six years later. The tepid demand for such watches perhaps explains why, according to Christie’s, AP made a total of six single-button chronograph wristwatch movements, but the remaining three were only cased and sold over a decade after this one. Restored perfectly Besides being extremely rare and also unexpectedly beautiful, this watch stands out for having been enjoyed “extensive” restoration at Audemars Piguet. Ordinarily restoration would be frowned upon, but the watch was pre...

Cartier Highlights Some Luxurious Bracelets with their Watches & Wonders Releases Worn & Wound
Cartier Highlights Some Luxurious Bracelets Apr 28, 2026

Cartier Highlights Some Luxurious Bracelets with their Watches & Wonders Releases

The Cartier appointment at Watches & Wonders this year was, as always, a dizzying experience. The incredible breadth of the collection is unlike anything you’ll see at Palexpo during Watches & Wonders week, and it always amazes me how freely these incredibly valuable, intricate creations are freely passed around a table of watch media types to handle, photograph, and try on. It would be absolutely impossible to run down everything we were shown in our meeting, but I keep coming back to a selection of releases that zero in on Cartier’s unique bracelet making capabilities.  This is not something I normally expect from Cartier, but maybe I should. I think for the most part we recognize Cartier as masters of design and shape – there have been so many great case designs over the brand’s history it’s impossible to recount them all here. Some have become genuinely iconic and some have been a bit lost to history, but their ingenuity and creativity is second to none and they have the reputation they deserve as a design first brand for good reason.  In our mind’s eye, collectively, we typically see these watches on straps. But for certain references a bracelet is key to understanding not just the visual design language, but in how these watches wear. Because a great bracelet doesn’t complete the look of a watch, it makes or breaks the experience of having it on your wrist, and can take a watch from being a beautiful design object to something you’d actually want to...

Anoma Debuts Two New References as Part of their Permanent Collection Worn & Wound
Apr 28, 2026

Anoma Debuts Two New References as Part of their Permanent Collection

Matteo Violet-Vianello founded Anoma back in 2024 with a crystal-clear concept that noticeably drew from the worlds of architecture and design as well as forms in nature. The brand’s debut offering set the tone for what has quickly become Anoma’s trademark: a triangular case. Those who follow the brand on Instagram well know that the brand’s cult following has become, dare I say obsessed with finding the soft, triangular form with rounded edges in the wild, citing pieces of furniture, buildings, river stones and other everyday objects that mimic the shape. From the get-go, Anoma has taken the approach of dropping limited edition collections rather than having a permanent catalog. The A1 First Series from 2024 was notable for its two-tone blue dial and was quickly followed up by two variations the following year: the A1 Slate offering a more neutral color palette and later the A1 Optical offered in two colorways – one monochromatic and the other two-tone – each highlighting a guilloche dial that has the unique and organic appearance of a fingerprint. Now, Anoma departs from its own tradition of highly limited executions, creating its first core collection. The new anchors for the brand include the A1 Abyss and A1 Stone. The pair very clearly echo models of the past with the Abyss giving us a twist on the First Series with a singular shade of blue that’s a bit lighter and brighter than the original two-tone. At first glance, this model appears simple, but there...

Hands-on – The Frederique Constant Worldtimer Manufacture, Reworked Monochrome
Frederique Constant Worldtimer Manufacture Reworked When Apr 28, 2026

Hands-on – The Frederique Constant Worldtimer Manufacture, Reworked

When it launched in 2012, Frederique Constant’s Worldtimer Manufacture made waves in the watch world. A complication usually found in far pricier watches, it delivered in-house world time functionality with an “accessible luxury” price tag. Not content to rest on its laurels, FC unveiled a new and improved Worldtimer at Watches & Wonders this year […]

Hands-On With The Unimatic Modello Quattro U4S-T-LB Limited Edition Fratello
Unimatic Modello Quattro U4S-T-LB Limited Apr 28, 2026

Hands-On With The Unimatic Modello Quattro U4S-T-LB Limited Edition

I have been lucky enough to try a wide variety of Unimatic watches over time. As some of you know, I love the brand’s ability to create great new releases that surprise me time and again. A big part of that is due to the brilliant canvas that the Unimatic founders, Giovanni Moro and Simone […] Visit Hands-On With The Unimatic Modello Quattro U4S-T-LB Limited Edition to read the full article.

Revisiting The Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Hands-On Review WatchAdvice
Frederique Constant Apr 27, 2026

Revisiting The Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Hands-On Review

As Raymond Weil comes out of their shell, so do more incredible timepieces. But have they hit a new peak with the Freelancer Complete Calendar? Let’s find out! What We Love: An elegant and versatile design Quality-of-life upgrades to a classic complication Excellent value proposition with few competitors What We Don’t: Movement finishing somewhat lacklustre The calendar is hard to see from a distance Do we need the lume? Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 This article was originally published as Is The New Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Their Best Yet?  There’s a rapid surge happening in watchmaking right now. No, I’m not talking about the newly imposed 39% U.S. tariffs on Swiss watches (though that’s a story in itself), but rather the quiet re-emergence of the middle market. As household names climb further upmarket, a new wave of brands are pushing harder than ever, flexing their creative and horological muscles to prove what they’re truly capable of. Christopher Ward is one; Frederique Constant and Maurice Lacroix are others. But perhaps the most impressive contender in this power shift is none other than Raymond Weil. Nearly 50 years young, the family-owned independent has been quietly racking up achievements and accolades. Their breakout moment came with the GPHG-winning Millésime collection, followed by ambitious world timers and flyback chronographs — complications that once f...

Opinion: What “Fair Pricing” Actually Means at Watches & Wonders Worn & Wound
Apr 27, 2026

Opinion: What “Fair Pricing” Actually Means at Watches & Wonders

Few watch industry traditions are more sacred than the yearly dance during Watches & Wonders between shiny new novelties in Switzerland and comments from observers back home about pricing being out of control. Every year, without fail, new watches are announced in the dead of night on the east coast, and before anyone in the United States could conceivably have access to the new pieces, the commentary comes through loud and clear: they want how much for that?  Look, I get it, I really do. As a collector, I’m priced out of a lot of watches that I wouldn’t have been even a year or two ago. Things are getting crazy, and fast. But you’d think based solely on the online discourse that there isn’t a single watch priced fairly anymore. I really don’t think that’s the case.  When I say “priced fairly” I want to be clear that I don’t mean any given watch is necessarily affordable to me, or anyone else. But that, in the scheme of things, and thinking about what you’re actually getting for your money at this current moment in time, certain watches are retailing right about where they should be, or at least at a level that aligns with what the watch is offering. And “fair” can mean a bunch of different things when we’re talking about retail pricing. Things like finishing, the positioning of a brand compared to their competition (and how watches are positioned within a brand’s collection), as well as production scale and the health of the brand itself all ...

Introducing: The Bulova Lunar Pilot Black Hole [Live Pics] Hodinkee
Bulova Lunar Pilot Black Hole Apr 27, 2026

Introducing: The Bulova Lunar Pilot Black Hole [Live Pics]

What We Know Bulova nerds, rejoice! Finally, after years and years of customers and collectors pleading, the Lunar Pilot is now available in a smaller size. Now, if you were hoping that you'd be able to run out and buy the classic Lunar Pilot design just downsized a bit, sadly, you're not in luck for now. But those looking for a twist on the original may be intrigued, as Bulova introduces the smaller case size in a new, blacked-out design called the Lunar Pilot Black Hole. The new case maintains the cushion-cased silhouette of the original, but is slimmed down from the original 43.5mm diameter to 41mm. The case thickness is 13.05mm, and the lug-to-lug is 48mm. The matte finish of the case and bracelet is achieved through sandblasting and PVD coating, lending it a stealthy look with a darkness that permeates the entire design. Parts like the crown, chronograph pushers, and top bezel ring are in glossy black PVD. The dial also leans completely monochromatic, with grey accents on the sandblasted hands and applied hour markers, and grey printing of the minute track, Bulova logo, and sundial markings. The base of the dial itself is coated in Musou black paint, which theoretically absorbs 99.4% of light for a truly black look. A nice touch is the grey Super-LumiNova on the indices and hands that glow blue in the dark. Sitting underneath the tall sapphire crystal is an internal tachymeter in relief, adding an extra layer of dimensionality to the dial. While the 60-minute counter ...