23,705 articles · 183 videos found · page 35 of 797
Quill & Pad
The GPHG Iconic category is for watches entered as “men’s or ladies watches from an emblematic collection that has exercised a lasting influence on watchmaking history and the watch market for more than 25 years.” Our panel is split, but has a clear favorite. Is it also yours?
Quill & Pad
The GPHG's Men’s Complication category awards “men’s watches that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. They may feature classic and/or innovative complications and indications like world time, dual time, or other types of models.” And our panel is split. Again.
Hodinkee
One of these will take home watchmaking's biggest prize.
SJX Watches
On the heels of its sold-out collaboration with Habring² back in December, Monochrome is back with a vintage-oriented monopusher chronograph in collaboration with Angelus. The Montre de Souscription 5 Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre (MdS5) is a subtle riff on the brand’s Chronographe Télémètre, which walked away with the Chronograph Prize at least year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). Initial thoughts I had the chance to see the MdS5 on the wrist of Monochrome founder Frank Geelen during Dubai Watch Week, and the watch makes a statement with its compact proportions. In fact, it could almost pass for a vintage watch. While historical reissues are made in abundance, they are often unnecessarily up-sized to suit modern tastes. At just 37 mm, the MdS5 has a tidy footprint on the wrist, and the 9.25 mm case height makes for a low profile. Interestingly, the watch could actually be a little smaller, given the compact proportions of the La Joux-Perret A5000, a manually wound monopusher chronograph movement descended from a construction first developed at THA by independent watchmaking royalty, including François-Paul Journe, Denis Flageollet, and Vianney Halter. This lineage gives the movement cachet, though the La Joux-Perret movement is in reality a distant relation of the THA (and Jaquet) original. As a souscription series, as many as 20 pieces of the MdS5 will be made, assuming enough demand, with a non-refundable deposit due up front. The watch goes o...
Worn & Wound
My original idea when I was asked to contribute to this series was to focus on my favorite watch acquisitions of the year, explain why they’re noteworthy, and describe my thought process behind purchasing or trading for each. While I was writing about my Universal Geneve Ref. 842116 Tank and Seiko 6139-6002 Pogue, I couldn’t help but notice how far my collection has come over the last year or so. Since the purchase of my first wristwatch in 2012, it’s always been my goal to cultivate watch boxes filled with both timeless classics and rare oddities. Looking at my collection as this year concludes, I’m proud to say I’ve never changed this philosophy. It was with this realization that my plans for this article began to transform into a conversation about watch collecting identity. While 2024 has been quite the successful year for my collection and I, it’s also the year that I went from being an affordable watch collector to being …an affordable watch collector. You see, the watch collecting hobby is filled with subjective terminology. Words and phrases like “rare,” “new old stock,” “like-new old stock,” “budget-friendly,” and of course “affordable” frequently see usage on online auction platforms, social media, forums, and advertisements. While these are often used as buzzwords for sellers wanting their post to be boosted in search algorithms or by collectors wanting to flaunt their new purchase, I’ve always been fascinated by how pliable...
Video
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Quill & Pad
It’s been more than ten years since the De Bethune DB28 won the Aiguille d’Or at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. Effectively the “Best Picture” at the “Oscars” of watchmaking, this recognition placed De Bethune among the elite company of Aiguille d’Or winners such as F.P. Journe, Greubel Forsey, Breguet, Audemars Piguet, A. Lange & Söhne, and Patek Philippe. A decade removed from its Hollywood ending, the DB28 remains a grail watch in every sense.
Quill & Pad
The week felt a little like going back to school for Ken Gargett – champagne school! Everywhere he went, up popped some of the great champagnes that he has tasted and written about in recent times, plus a few more. Including an ethereal, refined surprise magnum of Henriot Cuve 38.
Quill & Pad
Here Ken Gargett takes a look at a couple of the very best rosés made anywhere on the planet. Both are from Provence, more specifically Ott is from Côtes de Provence and Pibarnon from Bandol. Did you know that rosé makes for more than half of Provence’s wine production?
SJX Watches
FVF Genève founder Franc Vila has created a unique piece of his flagship tourbillon for a noted European collector of independent and complicated watches who goes by @thedeadwatchsociety on Instagram. The FVF1 Tourbillon “Seven Poets” is a romantic twist on the day complication that assigns a daily reading from one of seven historical poets. Initial thoughts Franc Vila is a man of many passions. His atelier in central Geneva is packed with art, and each piece has a story — I can’t think of anyone better to create a poetry-themed watch. Neither, it seems, could the lucky owner who commissioned the Seven Poets. The watch is fundamentally similar to the standard FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero, with its 42.5 mm case, titanium monocoque construction, seven-sided day roller, and flying tourbillon architecture. Even in its basic configuration, the FVF1 is a distinctive offering that relaunched Mr Vila’s career after he parted ways with his eponymous brand. But the Seven Poets is anything but basic. Like the “Today” edition reviewed last year, the Seven Poets deviates from the norms of traditional watchmaking. Instead of indicating the day of the week, the day roller has been repurposed to feature the hand-engraved names of seven poets that are personally meaningful to the owner who commissioned the watch. I liked the conceptual, philosophical statement made by the “Today” edition, and the Seven Poets takes it one step further. This simple change to an indicat...
Hodinkee
If there's one brand that remains near and dear to the heart of Hodinkee, it's Universal Genève. In some ways, my own love of watches may not have flourished the way it did without the incredibly broad range of designs and concepts from Universal in that period. Simple chronographs, calendar chronographs, calendar watches, dress watches, oversized Aviator watches, and even convertible watches were all part of the Universal story. It just did SO many things back then, and when it was announced that the House of Brands (the parent company of Breitling, and now Gallet and Universal) would be re-launching it in full force, I wasn't quite sure what to expect. And I think it's fair to say that many felt that way. But Mr. Kern, who led the project along with a great team of young enthusiasts, knew they needed feedback from the long-standing group of collectors to ensure what they made hit all the right notes. So they assembled a group of advisers to give feedback along the way. The group included Mr. Fred Mandelbaum, Mr. Eric Wind, myself, Mr. Alessandro Fanciulli (Mr. A), Mr. Auro Montanari, and many more die-hard Universal lovers. You can see some photos of one of our meet-ups right here, dating back more than two years ago. The advisory board would give notes, and the internal team would process them accordingly – mostly in design details. And in the end, Universal Genève was fully reborn with an astonishingly wide range of watches just last month in Geneva. It includes tw...
Video
I promised I'd do a new SOTC if I sold most of my collection. Here goes...
Hodinkee
Universal Genève means a lot to us at Hodinkee. It's been one of my favorite brands since the early days of our publication—one that's been with me through various moments in my career, through my growth in knowledge and passion for vintage watches, and a brand I've watched with anticipation, hoping it would come back. And today, we are sharing a conversation between myself and Georges Kern, former Breitling CEO and recently appointed CEO of House of Brands, which includes Breitling, Universal Genève, and Gallet, to chat over the recent results of a long-term project to bring Universal Genève back to the forefront. I don't think there's been a more hotly anticipated brand relaunch than that of Universal Genève. The announcement that Breitling (now House of Brands) had secured the rights to the dormant brand sent shockwaves through the industry. We—both in the industry at large and at Hodinkee—had high hopes for the relaunch, but the proof would come with the first releases. Let me tell you, I don't think anyone thought Universal Genève would go this far to knock it out of the park. Just before Watches and Wonders 2026, Universal Genève essentially stole the show before it began by launching a few dozen of its most iconic watches in both heritage-styled and reimagined forms. The Gerald Genta-designed Polerouter? Returned, not just in one size but two, and in multiple materials, dials, bracelets, and more. Oh, and a brand-new microrotor (well, three-quarter rotor...
Worn & Wound
While the watch industry braces for Watches & Wonders next week and anticipates a flurry of new releases to discuss that will take us through the next several months of watch discourse, today is actually the day that many collectors and enthusiasts have been waiting for for years: the debut of new watches from Universal Geneve. When it was announced that the brand would be formally relaunched by Georges Kern back in December of 2023, speculation began immediately as to what we would eventually see. Little tidbits have come out in dribs and drabs over the last two years, but today the watch community finally gets a look at what Universal Geneve will be in the modern era, at least to start. A few things are very apparent from the outset. This is a big swing on the part of Kern and others steering the ship at Universal. They could have gone small, and introduced a one or two references to reintroduce the brand to the community slowly, but instead they’ve come out o the gate with nearly 40 SKUs, with prices ranging from a relatively modest $14,000 all the way up to $320,000 for an elaborate jewelry focused Cabriolet (and that’s the only elaborate, jewelry focused piece). The other thing that’s clear is that the launch feels focused on the Polerouter, a Gerald Genta design that is likely the most well known watch under the broader Universal Geneve banner. It got the reference book treatment a few years back, and, once upon a time, was one of the most frequently recommen...
Fratello
Finally, after two years of teasing, Universal Genève is back. Yes, the brand is back in a tangible way with four collections and a soon-to-open flagship store in the heart of Geneva, its city of origin. From the 1940s through the 1960s, Universal Genève stood among the most respected names in high-end Swiss watchmaking. The […] Visit Universal Genève Is Back! Introducing Four Collections, With The Famous Polerouter Leading The Way to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The Polerouter is finally back and with a bang of 11 references across the newly launched range, with plenty of variety to discover. The post The Universal Genève Polerouter relaunches in force, with no less than 11 new models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Universal Genève Polerouter is probably the most historically significant watch that enthusiasts of a certain age have never heard of. Okay, maybe that's overstating it, but the watch is certainly less, well, universal in its claim to icon status than several other, more well known models that debuted later. And yet, if it weren't for the Polerouter, which came out in the mid-1950s and which afforded an opportunity for a young, precocious watch designer to make his first mark on the industry, we may never have had the opportunity to experience some of those 1970s models that came later. Intrigued? Read on. [toc-section heading="Universal Genève History (1894 - 1950s)"] Despite the “Genève” that has become attached to the company’s name, the firm originally known as Universal Watch traces its roots to a smaller Swiss city, the village of Le Locle (also home to Ulysse Nardin, Zenith, and Tissot), where it was established in 1894 by watchmakers Numa-Emile Descombes and Ulysse-Georges Perret. Descombes died a few years later, and Louis Berthoud, one of the company’s most talented watchmakers, rose from the ranks to become Perret’s partner in 1897. The pair moved operations to Geneva in 1919, forging the company's modern name and identity. The firm became known for chronographs, and eventually produced both pocket watches and trench watches (pocket watches converted to wristwatches for soldiers in the field) for armies on both sides of the two World Wars. O...
Video
Ever wonder how luxury watch brands really operate behind the scenes? In this video, I pull back the curtain and expose the hidden truths that collectors rarely see. From influencer and celebrity partnerships to “li...
Fratello
Let bygones be bygones. When the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection debuted in January 2019 at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), the reception was mixed, to put it mildly. Since then, the collection has evolved and become increasingly refined. The upgrade that won me over was the elaborate stamped dial that […] Visit Three New “Codes” To Crack: Two 38mm Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Watches And One 41mm Tourbillon to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Historically a complication associated with Svend Andersen, the pioneering independent who cofounded the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), the world time has been reworked and added to the Venus 179 split-seconds chronograph movement to create the Rattrapante Mondiale. One of the most complicated offerings from Andersen Genève, the Rattrapante Mondiale features a clever two-level world time disc display while the cal. 179 inside is entirely finished by hand. Though the octogenarian Mr Andersen is now largely retired, Andersen Genève continues his artisanal approach to watchmaking that’s exemplified by the Rattrapante Mondiale. Initial thoughts Andersen Genève has produced a great many world time watches, but the Rattrapante Mondial is one of the most impressive. The movement is recognisably complicated, while the level of execution is high, especially for the movement and dial. Much of the work is also artisanal, as is typical for Andersen, which still operates out of Svend Andersen’s original premises. The Rattrapante Mondiale is appropriately sized for the design and movement, while the case styling is simple and good enough. Unusually, it’s a “destro” case with the crown on the left side and world time knob on the opposite side. The brand says it made left-handed cases for some one-off commissions in the past, but here it feels a little too much like an unnecessary affectation. It is also reminiscent of the Patek Philippe ref. 5373P...
Time+Tide
Universal Genève's recently-released Tribute to “The Nina” Compax collection has us musing about the future of this soon-to-be revived brand.The post Will third time be the charm for a revived Universal Genève? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
ID Genève becomes the first watch brand to align itself with the United Nations.The post ID Genève teams up with the United Nations for a first of its kind SDG Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Since 2020, ID Genève has produced watches with a more sustainable and equitable future in mind. The brand’s 100% Swiss-made timepieces feature innovative components, such as self-healing carbon fiber, reprocessed stainless steel, and leather-alternative straps. To celebrate the 10th anniversary of the 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) of the United Nations, ID Genève launches the […] Visit ID Genève Introduces The Circular SDG Timepiece At Climate Week New York to read the full article.
Video
Thinking about getting a Pepsi? Here's all you need to know about one of Rolex's biggest Icons in the upcoming year of 2026 - how it wears, the hard facts, what it's actually good for and most importantly : PRICES.
Fratello
Last month, I had the pleasure of attending various events during London Watch Week. Most of the sessions took place in Mayfair, including a day at a historic house that featured new watches. Andersen Genève, along with the brand’s CEO, Pierre-Alexandre Aeschlimann, occupied a small booth. It was here that we noticed the standout from […] Visit A Quick Hands-On With The Andersen Genève Communication 45 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Having been acquired by Breitling’s private-equity owners last year, Universal Genève is scheduled to officially come back to life in 2026. But ahead of its revival in two years, the brand has unveiled a trio of one-off vintage remakes, the Polerouter SAS Tribute. Commemorating the 70th anniversary of the inaugural Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS) flight across the North Pole from Copenhagen to Los Angeles, the three watches are modelled on the Polerouter, a watch created especially for the pilots of SAS. Notably, the Polerouter was designed by the late Gérald Genta when he was just 23 years old. The SAS Tribute is made up of three unique watches, one each in stainless steel, 18k white gold, and 18k red gold, with the white gold example slated to be sold at Phillips in May 2025 with proceeds going to a Geneva arts school. The remaining pair will be retained by Universal Genève as part of its archive and will not be offered for sale. Initial thoughts The Polerouter trio are essentially faithful remakes, right down to the new-old-stock cal. 1-69 micro-rotor movement inside, but with dials in modern colours and finishes. While drawing inspiration from the vintage design, they look modern. The trio isn’t particularly imaginative, though it will appeal to fans of the brand’s vintage watches. Such remakes aren’t enough to revive a Universal Genève, though the brand’s attention to its historical models will be appreciated by enthusiasts. Whether or not Universal...
Hodinkee
Using the past as a hint for what is yet to come, Universal Genève previews the brand's new direction.
SJX Watches
Independent watchmaking has been important in the auction space for some time now, both in terms of repute and value. The recent Geneva auctions, for example, saw a new record set for the most expensive timepiece made by an independent – over US$8.32 million with fees for the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité prototype “15/93”. Now as the auction season moves to Hong Kong, we bring you some of the interesting examples of independent pieces watching up going on the block at Phillips’ Hong Kong auction on November 22-24. It’s a two-part event: first Toki, a theme sale dedicated to watches related to Japan, and the traditional sale of varied offerings. The catalogues with online bidding for Toki and HKWA XIX. TOKI Lot 111 – Masahiro Kikuno Tourbillon 2012 Part of the TOKI sale are timepieces crafted by Japanese independent watchmakers. One such piece remarkable is this unique wristwatch with a tourbillon regulator from Masahiro Kikuno, a low profile but talented craftsman. An up-and-coming independent watchmaker, Masahiro Kikuno is one of the youngest members of the AHCI. The auction debut for Mr Kikuno, the present wristwatch was firstly presented at Baselworld 2011, along with a similar one encased in silver. The watch is unmistakably hand made and original in many respects, ranging from the fluid 18k gold case to the patterned dial to the movement architecture. Although executed in the traditional way, the movement has an unusual construction, ...
Monochrome
The Polerouter is, without a doubt, one of the most emblematic watches ever created by Universal Genève. Not only was it designed by young Gérald Genta, but it was powered by an important micro-rotor movement and was a purpose-built watch created by request of SAS, asking Universal Genève to create a watch that could support […]
Video
In today’s video, we’re breaking down five watches that absolutely nobody buys— even though some of them should be getting more attention. From luxury brands like Rolex to lesser loved brands such as Parmigiani...
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