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Introducing: The Le Régulateur Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater III - Don’t Fight The Regulator WristMonster; Wear One! Fratello
Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Time Jun 23, 2025

Introducing: The Le Régulateur Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater III - Don’t Fight The Regulator WristMonster; Wear One!

Let’s start with a riddle. What has one eye, one mouth, two hands, and a rebellious soul? You got it - the Le Régulateur Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater III. The million-dollar question is whether humor belongs in luxury watchmaking, but when it looks good, it doesn’t matter if you think the watch […] Visit Introducing: The Le Régulateur Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater III - Don’t Fight The Regulator WristMonster; Wear One! to read the full article.

The New Breitling SuperOcean Heritage Collection Time Only Review WatchAdvice
Breitling SuperOcean Heritage Collection Time Jun 20, 2025

The New Breitling SuperOcean Heritage Collection Time Only Review

Breitling has updated their SuperOcean Heritage Collection, and with a range of seemingly small but big changes, we’ve taken the time-only models and put them to the test! What We Love The case refinements across the range The small nods to the vintage 1957 model The new in-house B31 Calibre What We Don’t The overlapping of the rubber strap under the wrist Fewer choices when it comes to the colour combinations in rose gold The domed crystal can reflect the light on the darker dials a little Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Earlier this month, Breitling released the new look SuperOcean Heritage Collection with a suite of changes that, while looking like small incremental changes, all added up to noticeable differences across the entire range. We had a first look at these upon release, and were fortunate enough to get our hands on them for some time prior, so the whole team was able to see the changes themselves in person, and what they meant for the wearer of the new models. Sam and I flipped a coin to see who would review the time only and who would review the new chronographs. This was a coin toss with no loser, as each was a good a choice as any, and I scored the time only. So stay tuned for Sam’s review of the Chronograph in a few weeks time. Breitling’s New SuperOcean Heritage Collection Kicks Up A Swell! Initial Thoughts I’ve always said, press photos and renders don’t always do the wat...

Hands-On With The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 - Two-Tone For Those Who Don’t Like Two-Tone Fratello
Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 Jun 18, 2025

Hands-On With The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 - Two-Tone For Those Who Don’t Like Two-Tone

A little less than a month ago, we saw the introduction of the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925. The watch commemorates 100 years of Longines dual-time watches in a rather bold fashion. Its rose-gold-capped bezel and matching gold dial details set it apart from any other Spirit Zulu Time. I was immediately intrigued by this […] Visit Hands-On With The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 - Two-Tone For Those Who Don’t Like Two-Tone to read the full article.

Contextualizing The Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, And SRPL89 Fratello
Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83 SRPL85 Jun 16, 2025

Contextualizing The Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, And SRPL89

Seiko unveiled the new SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, and SRPL89 only a few weeks ago. The new quartet is part of the Seiko 5 Sports lineup, more specifically, the so-called “SKX series.” But with that classification comes some mental gymnastics. When Seiko introduced the 5 Sports line in 2019, the brand was adamant that the newly […] Visit Contextualizing The Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, And SRPL89 to read the full article.

Hands-On Review With The New Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A WatchAdvice
Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A Grand Jun 14, 2025

Hands-On Review With The New Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A

Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive U.F.A (SLGB003) sets a new benchmark in mechanical watchmaking with an astonishing ±20 seconds per year accuracy. Wrapped in a new slimmer Evolution 9 case and finished with a dial inspired by winter in Shinshu, it’s a masterclass in subtle innovation and timeless elegance. What We Love The Calibre 9RB2 delivers an incredible +/- 20 seconds per year, redefining what is possible from a mainspring-powered mechanical movement The new 37mm case size makes the timepiece highly wearable for a wide range of wrist sizes. The beautifully textured dial captures Grand Seiko’s unique blend of craftsmanship and storytelling. What We Don’t While very comfortable, the standard three-link bracelet feels a little too plain for a release of this calibre. For a groundbreaking caliber, the caseback view feels a little subdued. For such a significant release, the design feels a little too in line with previous Evolution 9 models. Overall Rating: 9.25 / 10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Grand Seiko was first established in 1960 as a sister brand to Seiko, created to combat the Swiss watchmakers and their high-end luxury timepieces. While Seiko made affordable everyday timepieces, It was Grand Seiko’s role to create unique, innovative pieces that would cater to the luxury and high-end watchmaking market. Among the many different innovations and stunning dial aesthetics, one key aspect that truly makes Grand S...

Seiko Celebrates 50 Years of “Jaws” with Turtle Diver SJX Watches
Seiko Celebrates 50 Years Jun 13, 2025

Seiko Celebrates 50 Years of “Jaws” with Turtle Diver

Seiko marks 50 years since the release of Steven Spielberg’s landmark thriller about a killer shark with the Seiko Prospex JAWS 50th Anniversary Limited Edition. Based on the vintage-inspired “turtle” remake, the Jaws edition will be available only in Japan, United States, Australia, and Taiwan, and is limited to 5,000 examples. Initial Thoughts The Jaws anniversary edition is thoroughly Jaws themed, but subtle enough to blend in alongside the Save the Ocean and PADI special editions. This, combined with the sub-US$1,000 price point, makes for a competent, well-priced automatic dive watch means the watch will appeal to more than just fans of the film. A Jaws-themed dive watch is also a more natural fit than many of Seiko’s other pop-culture themed crossovers, especially since Hooper, one of the film’s protagonists, wears a cushion-cased diver. Don’t go in the water The bi-color dial takes inspiration from the iconic film poster by Roger Kastel. And, the embossed ripping water pattern also conceals the shark itself, which is only visible from certain angles. The Jaws logo below the hands matches the typography of the poster perfectly. The theming continues on the case back, with the fishing boat from the film, Orca, and the shark’s dorsal fin laser etched on the back, along with the limited edition number. The bezel sports a ceramic insert in dark blue Otherwise, it is a standard Seiko “King Turtle” with a 45 mm cushion case that’s water resistant to 20...

Seiko Celebrates the 50th Anniversary of Jaws with the Limited Edition SRPL81 Worn & Wound
Seiko Celebrates Jun 12, 2025

Seiko Celebrates the 50th Anniversary of Jaws with the Limited Edition SRPL81

Over the last few weeks there’s been plenty of discussion here, on the podcast, and around the internet on the current viability of Seiko as an enthusiast brand. Seiko, to put it plainly, was once at the center of watch enthusiast culture, and now they are quite simply not. The reasons for that are complicated and deserve close examination, but while we examine the state of Seiko it’s important to remember that the brand is still capable of releasing interesting watches that surprise us and put a smile on our faces, even if the pleasure derived from them is a bit more fleeting than that of an all-time enthusiast classic. Case in point: the new SRPL81, otherwise known as the Jaws 50th Anniversary Limited Edition. Yes, Seiko made a dive watch to celebrate the anniversary of Jaws, a movie that has famously been the root of a fear of the oceans across generations.  There’s little that needs to be said about Jaws that hasn’t been said at this point, right? It’s one of the greatest movies ever made, and a film that should have been impossible to produce, made by a gifted but inexperienced director still in his 20s and shot largely on the water, something which to that point had never really been attempted. Jaws singlehandedly paved the way for the modern blockbuster, upending the traditional release strategy for movies coming out of major studios. It’s still, 50 years later, the ultimate summer movie, and still has the power to frighten us and make us laugh (Hooper ...

Seiko Introduces Two Emerald-Green Prospex PADI Editions With The SPB501 And SRPL53 Fratello
Seiko Introduces Two Emerald-Green Prospex Jun 11, 2025

Seiko Introduces Two Emerald-Green Prospex PADI Editions With The SPB501 And SRPL53

Seiko has given us a multitude of PADI Editions over the past decade or so. I am the proud owner of the Seiko Turtle SRPA21 PADI Edition that came out in 2016. I don’t wear it often these days, but I used to wear it a lot after buying it. That watch is why I […] Visit Seiko Introduces Two Emerald-Green Prospex PADI Editions With The SPB501 And SRPL53 to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Vs. Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Fratello
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Jun 8, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Vs. Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for a coffee and another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we chose two newer versions of watches that we pitted against each other back in 2022 and 2023. The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT came out last year and is the smaller and slimmer version of […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Vs. Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT to read the full article.

Introducing – The De Bethune Mystery Box: Forget Time, created by Fiona Krüger & Denis Flageollet Monochrome
De Bethune Mystery Box Forget Time Jun 5, 2025

Introducing – The De Bethune Mystery Box: Forget Time, created by Fiona Krüger & Denis Flageollet

The “Mystery Box: Forget Time” results from the collaboration between Fiona Krüger and master watchmaker Denis Flageollet, founder of De Bethune. Known for her original approach to watch design, Fiona Krüger has built a reputation within the independent watchmaking world for her artistic yet technically demanding creations. Her past work, like the Skull and Chaos […]

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 “Lavender” Vs. Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 Fratello
Grand Seiko Kiri” SBGW323 Welcome Jun 1, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 “Lavender” Vs. Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323

Welcome to another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we decided to put the Swiss up against the Japanese, each with a purple-dial stainless steel watch of their own. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual with a lavender dial represents the Swiss, while the Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 represents the Japanese. Both came out during Watches […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 “Lavender” Vs. Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 to read the full article.

Seiko Introduced Four New References to the 5 Sports Series, and Almost No One is Talking About Them Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduced Four New References May 30, 2025

Seiko Introduced Four New References to the 5 Sports Series, and Almost No One is Talking About Them

Seiko, through their Seiko 5 Sports line, recently unveiled a watch that, five or six years ago, probably would have broken the watch internet. The SKX Series is a collection within the Seiko 5 Sports lineup that directly references the SKX line of Seiko divers, which are perhaps the most iconic of all enthusiast focused watches. The SKX Series under the Seiko 5 Sports banner is not new, but this new quartet of divers feels like the most direct callback to the classic SKX007 and SKX009 yet.  When the SKX watches were discontinued, it was the talk of the watch internet. And the (re)introduction of the Seiko 5 Sports line, as a pseudo-replacement, also drove a lot of conversation, much of it dismissive, or yearning for the “old days” of Seiko when the truly affordable SKX watches (real dive watches, we were always reminded) could be purchased easily by any budding collector. These new watches which connect directly to that SKX lineage say a lot about the state of the brand, and their reception to this point, I think, says even more about the community.  Before we get too deep into the meta-commentary of what these watches mean in enthusiast circles, let’s quickly get some basic objective stats out of the way. The new references (the SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87 and SRPL89, which feature blue, black, yellow and orange dials, respectively) all measure identically to the Seiko 5 Sports watches which debuted back in 2019. That means cases coming in at 42.5mm in diameter, 13.9m...

Breitling Top Time Martini Racing Review: A Winning Partnership WatchAdvice
Breitling Top Time Martini Racing May 29, 2025

Breitling Top Time Martini Racing Review: A Winning Partnership

The Breitling Top Time Martini Racing is a stylish tribute to the brand’s motorsport heritage, blending retro 1960s design with the iconic flair of Martini Racing, and here is how it performs in the modern-day watch world… What We Love The vibrant colours and dial stand out on the wrist A super easy-wearing watch thanks to its dimensions and lightness A great If You Know, You Know (IYKYK) collaboration What We Don’t The 38mm size wears on the smaller side, and may not suit larger wrists The domed crystal does distort the tachymeter scale on the outer section of the dial Start function on the chronograph is a little stiffer than expected Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Two Brands, One Shared Passion Normally when watch brands embark on collaborations with companies or brands outside the watch world, there is normally a pre-existing association in place. Usually through a sponsorship of an event, or partnership with a movie, that kind of thing. However, with the new Breitling Top Time Martini Racing, this is not quite the case. What it is, however, is a partnership based on a shared passion – Motorsport. Interestingly, neither Breitling nor Martini Racing are motoring brands either. Before you say, “But Martini Racing is one of the most iconic motorsports brands out there!” to which you are right, I’ll preface that statement. Martini Racing is part of Martini & Rossi, the alcohol brand base...

Introducing: The 2025 Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 - Celebrating A Century Of Longines Dual-Time Watches Fratello
Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 May 23, 2025

Introducing: The 2025 Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 - Celebrating A Century Of Longines Dual-Time Watches

The 2025 Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 marks the 100th anniversary of the Swiss brand’s world-first dual-time wristwatch. You can’t say the rectangular timepiece from 1925 served as an inspiration from a design perspective, but it did in spirit (sorry about that). By adding a rose-gold-capped bezel insert with engraved numbers and indexes, the look […] Visit Introducing: The 2025 Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 - Celebrating A Century Of Longines Dual-Time Watches to read the full article.

The Grand Seiko You Didn’t Know Existed – an Owner’s Review of the SBGX331 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko You Didn’t Know Existed May 16, 2025

The Grand Seiko You Didn’t Know Existed – an Owner’s Review of the SBGX331

With Grand Seiko’s rise to popularity in the last few years, it’s hard to find a truly obscure model. And yet, here we are. No, it’s not some vintage reference buried in the archives or a short-lived limited edition you didn’t know about. It’s a modern watch-one that was still available as recently as fall 2023. It wasn’t exclusive to a single boutique, and yet, you’ve likely never seen it before. Why? Because it’s a Japanese domestic model that’s flown almost entirely under the radar. The watch is the Grand Seiko SBGX331-and by the time you finish reading this, you might just want one yourself. So, how did I end up with the SBGX331? Back in September 2023, I had the chance to travel to Japan as part of the Grand Seiko Media Experience-a whirlwind tour of Seiko and Grand Seiko’s facilities across Honshu. Over just a few days, we visited multiple workshops, watched artisans at work, and took in various presentations on the brand’s history, movements, and proprietary technologies. We saw case finishing, dial printing, and even the production of Credor Eichi II dials. And yes, we ate-a lot. For a more detailed breakdown of that trip, check out my write-up here. As a longtime Grand Seiko fan, it wasn’t so much a crash course as it was a chance to confirm that all the stories I’d read-and in some cases repeated-were actually real. Seeing Zaratsu polishing done in person, or hands being heat-blued to a precise hue, or watching minute indices...

Introducing: The Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, And SRPL89 Fratello
Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83 SRPL85 May 15, 2025

Introducing: The Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, And SRPL89

Over the past six years, the current Seiko 5 Sports collection has become widely diverse. First announced in August 2019, spec-wise, it wasn’t a direct successor to the famous SKX dive watches. However, with the discontinuation of the SKX series and the SRPD models’ visual link to those watches, it’s clear where the inspiration came […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, And SRPL89 to read the full article.

The Seiko SKX173: An Owner’s Retrospective Worn & Wound
Seiko SKX173 May 9, 2025

The Seiko SKX173: An Owner’s Retrospective

It was December of 2011 when I picked up the Seiko SKX173 – the watch that got me into watches. I’d say it was all downhill from there, but I think I’ve managed to contain myself relatively well when it comes to watch enthusiasm – I’m more practical when it comes to collecting (don’t even consider myself a collector) since I really like to wear what I have. I do tend to lean towards the sentimental side, hence the Seiko SKX173 on my wrist today that’s been a part of my horological journey for the better part of the last 14 years. Although a lot has happened between then and now, I remember choosing the Seiko after hitting the watch forums and getting a better idea of what kind of watch I wanted. I wanted something that was rugged, durable, cool looking, and mechanical. At the time, I only had limited experience with some Timex quartz watches, and the SKX felt like a huge bump up. I paid roughly $250 for the SKX on Amazon and in a few days, the watch arrived.  It came on a rubber strap, which immediately got me searching around for other options. I ended up buying a WJean Super Oyster bracelet (which looking at it now is more jangly than it is super), a single pass leather nato (didn’t know that leather on a diver was a faux pas), and a chunky military-style nato from CountyComm. For me, that was all I needed. A solid watch, a few strap options, and that’s all. Man, how times were simpler. The Seiko SKX was a springboard for me, launching me into the worl...

Seiko’s Premier Diver-GMT Gets an Update with the Prospex SPB519 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT Worn & Wound
Seiko s Premier Diver-GMT Gets May 6, 2025

Seiko’s Premier Diver-GMT Gets an Update with the Prospex SPB519 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT

A new diver release from Seiko isn’t exactly going to set the world on fire, but it will surely please the legions of fans of the brand and its Prospex line. With a crisp white and blue colorway and nifty bracelet that can be microadjusted as wrist size changes throughout the day, the 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT looks to be a worthy-if subdued-addition to the ever-growing catalog of Seiko dive watches. Pulling from a long tradition of purpose-built Seiko dive watches, the new SPB519 reference features a stainless steel case measuring in at 42mm in diameter, 48.6mm lug-to-lug, and 13.3mm thick, giving it a heftier frame than 2023’s closely-related Heritage Diver’s GMT (SPB381). A unidirectional bezel, and screw-down caseback and crown at 4 o’clock further push the watch into “serious” diver waters, supported by the 300-meter water resistance rating. Stylistically, the SPB519 takes on a sort of jaunty sailor persona, with a navy blue ceramic bezel and a silvery white dial. The applied indexes and hands are coated in LumiBrite, as are numerals on the bezel, and an anti-reflective coating protects the inner surface of the sapphire crystal.  Inside, the Caliber 6R54 automatic hand-winding GMT movement adds some spice to the otherwise by-the-numbers functionality of the watch, and boasts a 72-hour power reserve and “caller-style” independent 24-hour hand. The most interesting feature of the 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT, however, lies with the bracelet, which ...

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Escale Spin Time “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Escale Spin Time “Only May 6, 2025

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Escale Spin Time “Only Watch”

While the most valuable lot at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction will likely be the Breguet Sympathique clock no. 1, the sale also includes a few unexpected and interesting lots. One standout is the Louis Vuitton Escale Spin Time “Only Watch”, a unique piece created for the Only Watch charity auction in 2019. Consigned by the original owner – who is a prominent collector whom I greatly respect – the Spin Time is a flamboyant, gem-set take on Louis Vuitton’s signature complication. The centrepiece is a miniature enamel dial by Anita Porchet depicting a motif inspired by tattoo art. This unique Spin Time originally sold for CHF280,000 at Only Watch 2019. Now carrying an estimate of CHF40,000-80,000, the watch will go on the block at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction taking place on May 10, 2025. Initial thoughts I was a fan of this Spin Time when it was first revealed in 2019. In fact, I bid on it at Only Watch, but I was laughably uncompetitive and far from the CHF280,000 hammer. In contrast to the latest generation of Spin Time that is both refined and discreet, this watch is over the top and I like it because of that. The aesthetic is a lot, maybe too much, but it works. Most importantly, the watch is not just about extravagant styling. The dial is the work of Anita Porchet herself, combining both miniature painting and champleve. Certainly the motif is not for everyone, but the quality of craft is unmistakeable. A rose among the thorns This unique Spin Time...

Introducing: The New Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT 60th Anniversary Edition SPB519 Fratello
Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s Apr 30, 2025

Introducing: The New Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT 60th Anniversary Edition SPB519

Seiko is marking 60 years of diver’s watches with a new take on its successful GMT line, the Seiko SPB519. Today, Seiko has released a new Heritage Diver’s GMT watch in the Prospex collection. The brand has been on a powerful streak of late with their Prospex line, including improving the calibers on offer. The […] Visit Introducing: The New Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT 60th Anniversary Edition SPB519 to read the full article.

Introducing – Seiko Upgrades its Prospex Diver GMT with more WR and a Micro-Adjust Clasp Monochrome
Seiko Upgrades Apr 30, 2025

Introducing – Seiko Upgrades its Prospex Diver GMT with more WR and a Micro-Adjust Clasp

Surprisingly, Seiko’s first mechanical dive watch with a GMT function was introduced to the collection only two years ago, with the references SPB381, SPB383, and the Save the Ocean limited edition reference SPB385. Inspired by the 1968 Hi-Beat 300m diver, these office GMT watches came with a 200m water-resistance. Only a couple of months ago, […]

Hands-On: Breitling’s Top Time Tribute To An Epic Cycling Rivalry WatchAdvice
Breitling s Top Time Tribute Apr 14, 2025

Hands-On: Breitling’s Top Time Tribute To An Epic Cycling Rivalry

Breitling’s latest Top Time releases pay tribute to cycling legends Gino Bartali and Fausto Coppi, blending heritage with the brand’s signature style. I take these timepieces hands-on for review to see if they live up to their promise, both on the wrist and paper. What We Love: These new watches offer a refreshing new take on a collection currently dominated by motorsports. Timepieces are eye-catching while staying true to Top Time design and colours that represent the respective cycling legends. The mechanical performance matches the vibrant design, offering a well-rounded package for those who want a fun and reliable timepiece on their wrist. What We Don’t: The case will wear slightly larger on smaller wrists, especially with its lug-to-lug presence. As with all Top Time Chronograph timepeices, lack of date window might be a drawback for those that prefer the added practicality. Personal choice, but would have loved to see a yellow dial with blue accents for Gino Barali model, offering another new look to the Top Time collection alongside the Fausto Coppi model. Overall Rating: 8.6/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Breitling has been expanding their Top Time collection as of late, bringing in the brand new time and date B31 models alongside the newly redesigned chronograph model with its new aesthetics cushion-shaped case. The Swiss watchmaker has also introduced two new models in the existing chronograph design, ...