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Quill & Pad
Hairsprings are miniscule. Generally no more than one centimeter in overall diameter when coiled, they are roughly 50 microns thick and 150 microns wide. Tiny they may be, but insignificant they are not. In fact, they are so significant that Rolex refers to them as “the guardians of time.” But what do silicon hairsprings bring to the table? Watchmaker Ashton Tracy explains why he went from skeptic to fan.
Time+Tide
At the top of the list of brands associated with the unobtanium phenomenon is Rolex. Yes, other brands have this shared insufferable quality of low access to watches at retail, but, these other brands are independents with much smaller production runs. Rolex makes approximately 800,000 to a million watches annually, yet many consumers leave boutiques … ContinuedThe post AGREE OR DISAGREE: Rolex prices will one day be at or under retail – these were your responses… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
As if Rolex needed anymore speculation surrounding the brand, news broke that the Crown has acquired Bucherer – a multi-brand retailer with over 100 locations around the world, 53 of which distribute Rolex watches. But, before we dig into this big international news I first want to discuss something a closer to home. NOW Magazine … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Rolex acquires venerated multi-brand retailer Bucherer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When you’re contemplating buying a watch that is so clearly an homage to an established model, you have to be absolutely sure that you’re getting your money’s worth. There’s no shortage of watches which look like a Rolex just to make quick sales, but the Oceaneva Deep Marine Explorer Pro Diver GMT Automatic 1250M is … ContinuedThe post MICRO-MONDAYS: The Oceaneva Deep Marine Explorer Pro Diver GMT has a long name, and an impressive spec sheet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The latest limited edition produced by Wei Koh and our friends at Revolution is a high concept variant of the Nomos Tangente Neomatik 41 Update that uses one of our favorite mathematical principles as a starting point. Longtime readers might recall Blake’s dive into the Rolex Explorer 124270, and pondered what the dimensions of that watch and their relationship to the Golden Ratio meant for comfort on the wrist. The so-called Golden Ratio is derived from dividing each number in the Fibonacci series by its predecessor, and the results, in an almost mystical way, seem to line up with natural phenomenon, like the way leaves, branches, and petals grow in a predictable spiral, and the shape of the shell of a snail. This new watch, dubbed “Resilience,” is so-named because the helix shape, a pattern linked to the Fibonacci sequence, is the symbol for resilience in nature, a concept that Revolution and Nomos were interested in exploring coming out of the Covid-19 pandemic. Before we get to the watch, a brief refresher/math lesson is required to get everyone up to speed on the Fibonacci numbers. This will be coming from someone with a liberal arts education, so please do feel free to check my work in the comments below, as I just barely passed introductory calculus. The easiest way to understand the Fibonacci sequence is to observe that they’re a set of numbers where the next digit is always the sum of the two digits immediately preceding it. Dividing any two successive F...
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Time+Tide
The expression do not bite the hand that feeds you is an international turn of phrase. In the same vein, you never want to piss off the person who cuts your hair. It is good to keep your barber happy to ensure you always get the clean haircut you are looking for – rather than leave the … ContinuedThe post Jake Paul tips his barber with a US$11K Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
For a watch collector, horological monogamy is a huge challenge. The idea of limiting yourself to one watch, or one brand, is enough to give most watch collectors the sweats. But we like to have fun at Time+Tide. So we challenged you all to pick one of four brands in part one. The challenge: you … ContinuedThe post Rolex, Patek, AP, VC – you can only wear one for life. These were your responses… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
If you’re a budding watch-spotter, Ed Sheeran is the gift that just keeps on giving. Highlights in his watch box include the Patek Philippe Ref.1518 – the first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph in the world of which just 281 were produced – and the Patek Philippe Ref.5208P-001, a platinum-cased grand complication that is valued north of … ContinuedThe post Ed Sheeran hands out free pizzas while wearing a six-figure “Paul Newman” Rolex Daytona ref. 6263 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A few days ago, Hamid Al Ameri was partying with mates on a yacht in the waters off Palm Jumeirah in Dubai. At some stage, one of the group decided to go for a swim and jumped off the side of the boat. Somehow his watch came off his wrist as he entered the water … ContinuedThe post Dubai police turn Rolex rescuers to salvage Yacht-Master from ocean floor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Thanks to its bezel, as Dietmar W. Fuchs explains, the diver's watch is a much more versatile timepiece than many people think. Aside from teaching you how to use it on land, in the skies, and under water, here he answers the perennial question of who made the first true diver's watch: Blancpain, Rolex, or Panerai.
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Time+Tide
Whatever doesn’t kill you, may not actually make you stronger. But at least it provides good material for your Netflix show. That’s the case for comedian John Mulaney who’s discussed getting clean from his desperate addiction to cocaine, Adderall, Xanax, Klonopin, and Percocet in his stand-up special, Baby J. The show includes some forehead-slapping stories … ContinuedThe post What’s worse than selling a $12,000 Rolex for $6,000 to buy drugs? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
This weekend marked the 100th running of the 24 hour race of Le Mans at the Circuit de la Sarthe in France, and Rolex took full advantage of the occasion with the release of a new Daytona with a dial that recalls the now famous ‘exotic’ dial, aka Newman dial, of older references. This release is surprising for a few reasons, and may even offer some insight to what we might expect from Rolex moving forward. We’ll get to all that, but in many ways, this is the Daytona that enthusiasts have been asking for since the late ‘80s – it’s the ‘greatest hits’ watch, perfectly capitalizing on the the new Daytona chassis released just earlier this year at Watches & Wonders, which we went hands-on with right here. First and foremost, Rolex is not in the habit of dropping new releases outside of their regular yearly cadence. We last saw it with the release of the Deepsea Challenge in late 2022, the first commercial Rolex to tout their RLX titanium material. While that watch could be considered something of an outlier, given its rather extreme nature, the Daytona is another story entirely. This new reference, the 126529LN officially, joins the new collection as a regular production model. That reference number ends in four characters that have never appeared together in the Daytona family, the 29 indicating a full white gold case and bracelet, and LN, or Lunette Noir, meaning it sports a black Cerachrom bezel. Vintage Rolex Daytona reference 6263 with exotic dial The firs...
Time+Tide
New 18K white gold Rolex Daytona with special visual cues celebrates 100 years of 24 Hours of Le Mans race Uses a new 4132 calibre exclusive to the model that features a 24-hour counter rather than the standard 12-hour counter US$51,400 and not announced as a limited edition Rolex is typically viewed as the unfaltering … ContinuedThe post New Rolex Daytona revealed for 24 Hours of Le Mans race centenary – what you need to know appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
With our globetrotting editor out and about on a Paris adventure discovering the Type XX, I thought I’d jump in and cover some of this week’s biggest happenings. In lieu of a Formula 1 Grand Prix this weekend, we’re treated to the absolute peach that is the 24 Hours of Le Mans, held at the … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Rolex celebrates 100 years of Le Mans, while Philippe Dufour is a birthday boy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Their name may not be as recognised as Rolex by the hoi polloi, but Singaporean microbrand Boldr Supply Co. has long been something of an insider’s secret among watch collectors. A winning combination of adventurous designs, fantastic build quality, and sought-after specs, all at “how do they do it?” prices, have made Boldr a favourite … ContinuedThe post Why Boldr is the enthusiast brand that you should have on your radar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
Watch auctions are typically associated with record-breaking prices and incredible amounts of money spent on coveted collectables. During my visit to Sotheby’s Upper East Side headquarters, I saw plenty of lots primed to go for six, seven, dare I say eight figures – such as the two Paul Newman-owned Rolex Daytonas that the auction house … ContinuedThe post 5 sleeper picks from the upcoming Sotheby’s Fine Watches auction starting next week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Some people think you need to wait for Watches & Wonders to see new watches, but this June in New York, there are dozens of pieces seeing the light of day for the first time in decades. Over at Sotheby’s New York, two auctions are bringing out some heavy-hitting heroes. In the Important Watches Sale … ContinuedThe post Two Rolex Daytonas owned by Paul Newman and a full-set Comex Sea-Dweller headline Sotheby’s Important Watches auction on June 9 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
If you ask the average person to name a watch brand, they’ll most likely say Rolex. Such is the power of the company which arguably perfected the sports watch, and also transformed wristwatch marketing methods with memorable campaigns and endorsements. In terms of pure dollars, Rolex dominate the Swiss watch industry as well, with US$9.7B … ContinuedThe post WHAT IF… There were no more Rolex waitlists? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Back from Japan and a much needed R&R; week on vacation in Aruba with my family, it is great to return to the Friday Wind Down saddle. Thanks for holding it down Borna! While in any given week there is a fair bit of watch news, this week has really been dominated by Rolex with watch spots … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: James Harden gifts NBA MVP Joel Embiid engraved Rolex Day-Date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
To call anything ‘important’ is a matter of subjectivity, especially when you’re talking about luxury watches. That said, anyone who takes a look through the lots of Sotheby’s latest batch from the upcoming Important Watches auction will be dumbstruck. From rarities like the 1970s Heuer Monaco ‘Dark Lord’ to classics such as the platinum Rolex … ContinuedThe post 10 favourites from the upcoming Sotheby’s Important Watches: Part I Auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
Let’s face it. For most of us, who don’t work in finance or have somehow failed to win the lottery (so far) or be fathered by a particularly indulgent Sheikh, reading about watch auctions is a form of fantasy window shopping. “Hmm,” you nod to yourself approvingly when reading about the platinum Rolex Yacht-Master that … ContinuedThe post Want to dabble in high-end watch auctions but lack the cash? FutureGrail may have the solution appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
One of the most compelling new releases at Watches & Wonders (W&W;) was the Rolex Perpetual 1908, brand’s most serious take on the dress watch in decades. Elegantly sized and surprisingly thin, the 1908 is equipped with the all-new, automatic cal. 7140. Perhaps the most significant debut from Rolex in recent years, the 1908 replaces the ill-fated Cellini. Named after the year Rolex was founded by Hans Wilsdorf, the 1908 is significant not so much for what it is – a dress watch with exceptional quality of manufacture – but simply because it is the first new collection of watches from Rolex in decades. Importantly, the 1908 is the first model in the new Perpetual collection, which implies that Rolex will be introducing more watches like this in time to come. Initial thoughts In my view, the Cellini collection always felt underdeveloped. The models introduced in 2017 had potential, but they shared too much in common with their sportier siblings, both in terms of movements and dimensions, leaving them feeling too clunky to be an alternative to the entry-level dress watches from traditional haute horlogerie brands. The 1908, on the other hand, feels like a proper effort. Compared to the outgoing Cellini models, almost every detail has been tangibly upgraded to some degree. In the hand, the 1908 feels like a Rolex – the tactile feel of quality is quickly apparent. Despite being fairly svelte at 9.5 mm high, the case of the 1908 has the solidity of an Oyster case – th...
Time+Tide
In a world where heritage is often a deciding factor when it comes to credibility, Tissot’s long-standing existence is certainly a plus. The brand has never strayed from looking back at its catalogue and re-releasing a winner – the PRX is the only proof of that you’ll need – but the way Tissot intertwines their … ContinuedThe post How Tissot weaves history into their collections appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Ikepod launched in 1994 so co-founder and designer Marc Newson could create his own playground, which is exactly what he did. And there is no better example of his joyful design than the Ikepod Megapode launched in 1999. But to trade a Rolex for it?
Worn & Wound
Rolex is always the talk of Watches & Wonders, but this year the conversation focused on an unlikely watch: an Oyster Perpetual with a “Celebration Dial,” a colorful and playful creation that seems very, well, unlike Rolex? But is it, really? It garnered a lot of attention, was immediately memed, and generated some of the most fiery takes of the show. The Worn & Wound editorial team, as you’d expect, has thoughts, so we weigh in on the new Oyster Perpetual, and a similarly colorful and offbeat Day-Date, below. Zach Kazan No matter how hard brands try to prevent them, leaks of new releases are inevitable. It happened again this year with Rolex, the biggest brand of all. And while we only had hastily shared Google search results to go off of, and no actual specs or even basic information about the watches themselves, the shuttle ride to Palexpo on Day 1 was dominated by talk of gumballs. The so-called “Celebration Dial” Oyster Perpetuals, along with the spiritually related “Jigsaw” Day-Date, are as whimsical as we’ve seen Rolex in recent years. Lefty GMT aside, this isn’t a brand known for its sense of humor. So a dial filled with colorful circles (51 is the official tally) that correspond with the colors of the most recent Oyster Perpetual refresh from about 3 years ago is bound to generate the hottest of takes. What I want to know from the haters is this: who decided Rolex can’t have fun? I guess if your version of Rolex is “luxury tool watches”...
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