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Review: The New Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 5822P-001
Patek Philippe unveils a new collection, the Cubitus, for the first time in over 20 years, with the Ref. 5822P-001 as its currents flagship offering.
Results for The Heuer Carrera (1963)
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SJX Watches
The Longines Conquest Heritage in Red Dégradé
Ordinarily a faithful vintage remake with an old-school aesthetic, the Conquest Heritage gets a makeover for the Chinese Lunar New Year. The Conquest Heritage Year of the Snake stands out with a striking red gradient dial featuring gold-plated hands and indices. And for the occasion, the back bears an engraved snake motif penned by Chinese contemporary artist Wu Jian’an, who drew inspiration from the ancient Chinese fable, “Legend of the White Snake”. Initial thoughts The Conquest Heritage Year of the Snake offers something more modern and striking, instead of the conservative look of the standard model that has a silver or black dial. I particularly like the fact that the snake motif is limited to an engraving on the case back, as having it on the dial would have been overly ornate. It’s priced at US$3,150, almost exactly the same as the regular production model, which makes it a decent value proposition. It has a workmanlike quality appropriate for the price, while the high-spec ETA movement inside is one of its strengths. And like other zodiac-theme watches, this would have resonance for those born in the Year of the Snake a meaningful way to commemorate the occasion, not unlike wearing a birthstone. Vintage inspired The snake edition is identical to the standard model save for the dial and case back engraving. Water resistant to 50 m, the stainless steel case is 40 mm in diameter, 10.7 mm in thickness, and entirely polished. It’s slightly larger than the ori...
Monochrome
Introducing – IWC Discreetly Drops New Red Gold Versions of the Updated Portugieser 40 and 42 Automatic
2024 was all about the Portugieser at IWC, the brand’s most classic and elegant collection. Of course, the star of the show was the Portugieser Eternal Calendar, a secular calendar watch that made it to our list of the best watches of the year. There were many more updated versions of this emblematic watch launched […]
Time+Tide
The history of Vacheron Constantin, the oldest brand of the Holy Trinity
We dive into the history of one of the oldest and most influential watchmakers in the world, this 'Holy Trinity' brand.The post The history of Vacheron Constantin, the oldest brand of the Holy Trinity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look – The Bright and Colourful New Cimier 711 Heritage Chronograph POP Collection
Presented in 2024, the Cimier 711 Heritage Chronograph is a modern reinterpretation of one of the brand’s 1960’s models, the Faux Chronographe, a simplified and affordable take on the chronograph watch. Produced in large quantities, it allowed users to measure short time intervals by initiating and halting the independent central seconds hand. If the modern […]
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Discovering French watch brands, partie deux | Baltic, Yema, Sartory-Billard, Pequignet | THE LINEUP
Time+Tide
These 5 affordable two-tone watches have all the swagger, but just a little bit of the cost
Looking for the bi-metal look, all under the benchmark of US$3,000?The post These 5 affordable two-tone watches have all the swagger, but just a little bit of the cost appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Longines Trolls Us With A $5,000 ‘Dive’ Watch Featuring a Fixed Bezel: The Ultra-Chron Carbon
Let me set the stage for you: somewhere in Switzerland, a Longines executive is sitting in a leather chair, sipping espresso, and staring out over the Alps. “What if,” they muse, “we take a perfectly good dive watch, strip it of its most basic functionality, make it out of fancy plastic, and charge five grand for it?” Cue applause from the boardroom, a slow clap from a guy in a turtleneck, and voilà-the Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon is born.
Worn & Wound
Collecting: Why I Chose the Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé
Since I picked up the Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé in the fall of last year, I’ve been meaning to write something about it. It’s an incredible watch, probably the best I’ve owned, and I feel lucky to have it. That’s a strange thing to say, I know. I’m sure Zeitwinkel would happily sell this watch to anyone who was willing to provide the agreed upon amount of money – luck doesn’t really have that much to do with it. But there are things about this watch that are special and set it apart from other watchers I’ve owned that make having it in my watch box and on my wrist a unique pleasure. This isn’t an owner’s review, because what I really want to talk about with respect to the 273° aren’t the specs, or the finishing, or even the experience of wearing it (all are great, by the way). What I want to talk about is the strange route I took to focusing on Zeitwinkel and picking the 273°. It echoes, I think, the piece I wrote at the end of last year for our “My Year in Watches” series, where I talked about a renewed focus on independent brands. Zeitwinkel is about as independent as it gets, and that’s a big reason why this watch resonates with me – it reflects the very specific interests of the brand founders, and represents a certain no-compromises approach to watchmaking that can’t easily be found with brands owned by big luxury groups, and certainly not at the price point of the 273°. I’ll be honest here and admit that I was largely unfa...
Monochrome
Hands-on – Impressions about the Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified
About a month ago, out of the blue, Omega released a new, rather polarizing and unique-looking version of its emblematic chronograph, the Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified. Well, it wasn’t really out of the blue, but we’ll come back on that in a few. Colourful, tool-oriented and with a dial full of references to the world of […]
Worn & Wound
Toledano & Chan Introduces the B/1.2, a Follow-Up to One of Last Year’s Breakout Independent Hits
If 2024 was defined by the rise of shaped cases and stone dials, it appears that 2025 is starting off with more of the same. Last year, Toledano & Chan had an unexpected hit with their debut watch, the B/1, which was a contemporary riff on the classic Rolex King Midas and similar avant garde designs, with a Brutalist inspired case shape and on-trend lapis lazuil dial. Now, for the brand’s second serialized release (they produced a pair of one-offs for auction last year with cases crafted from carbon and meteorite) they’ve made a handful of subtle refinements to the original idea, added a mother-of-pearl dial, and introduced a dramatic, faceted crystal. It’s a more complex idea but shows in clear terms how the brand might grow with future releases, showing that they have plenty of tricks left up their sleeve and intend to keep their momentum going. The new watch, dubbed the B/1.2, prominently features an asymmetrical sapphire crystal that echoes the lines of the angular case. Faceted and asymmetrical crystals are rare in watchmaking. Production of crystals in unusual shapes, particularly when made from sapphire, is challenging and expensive. Perhaps even more importantly, a crystal with facets will distort, to some degree, whatever is viewed through it, which is not ideal for time telling. It’s perhaps especially not ideal for time telling on a watch with a dial that does not include markers or numerals of any kind, like the B/1.2. But that underscores the whole...
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Out of the Ordinary Watches Under $500 No One Is Talking About - Affordable Bargain Watches
Hodinkee
Introducing: Peter Speake Returns With The PS Horology 'Tsuba Blue' & 'Tsuba Dong Son'
Drawing on Speake's fascination with Asian history and culture, the Tsuba is the first release from his new venture.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Toledano & Chan B/1.2
This second release reveals a softer side of the brand's Brutalist inspired design.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Longines Conquest Heritage Year of the Snake
The Chinese Lunar New Year is just around the corner, and on the 29th of January, the Chinese zodiac welcomes the Year of the Snake. To celebrate the event, Longines unveils a 2,025-piece limited edition of its Conquest Heritage with a rich red gradient dial and a special engraving on the caseback of a snake […]
Deployant
New: PS Horology by Peter Speake launches the Tsuba
Peter Speake returns withPS Horology and released a new collection with two models: the Tsuba Blue and the Tsuba Dong Son.
Fratello
Introducing: The Oris ProPilot X Calibre 115 Year Of The Snake Limited Edition
Oris proudly introduced its ProPilot X Calibre 115 in 2019. The launch event back then took place in Shanghai, China. Now, five years later, the brand introduces a new limited edition of its impressive ProPilot X with a 10-day power reserve for the upcoming Chinese New Year. According to the Chinese, 2025 will be the […] Visit Introducing: The Oris ProPilot X Calibre 115 Year Of The Snake Limited Edition to read the full article.
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The Modern Interpretation Of An Icon: The Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43
Time+Tide
The DeMarco Chronograph makes a strong and affordable debut
1940s chronograph, but make it colourful: DeMarco takes 1940s pilot's chrono inspiration and conveys it in a modern mechaquartz manner.The post The DeMarco Chronograph makes a strong and affordable debut appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – The PS Horology Tsuba Watch and the New Project of Peter Speake
Peter Speake has been captivating watch enthusiasts for over three decades, primarily through the creations of Speake Marin, the brand he co-founded and helmed as a watchmaker from 2002 to 2017. In 2022, Speake launched his new venture, PS Horology, and the brand’s debut timepieces – the Tsuba Blue and Tsuba Dong Son editions – […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Panerai Luminor Marina Review: The PAM00777
Every watch has a story, but some watches come with adventures baked right into their DNA. If you've listened back to our older podcast episodes, you'll know that my Panerai Luminor Marina PAM00777 is one of those pieces. It wasn't just the culmination of years of quiet admiration for the brand; it was the memento of a whirlwind day in Florence that, for a moment, felt like a nightmare.
SJX Watches
Peter Speake Returns with PS Horology and the Tsuba
Peter Speake has introduced the first watches under his new brand, PS Horology. Long separated from the eponymous brand Speake-Marin, Mr Speake has launched the Tsuba. A significant departure from his earlier designs, the Tsuba’s case and bracelet features flowing, organic lines inspired by tsuba, guards found on traditional Japanese swords that were functional but often exquisitely decorated. The debut of PS Horology, just six days into the new year, is the first significant relaunch of 2025 but probably not the last. Initial thoughts Mr Speake is a significant figure in the early history of independent watchmaking, so the launch of his new brand attracted my attention. While the designs are a departure from what I’m used to seeing from the projects he’s been involved with in the past, they are nonetheless executed with an eye for the details. The Tsuba is all about its case and bracelet design, which is almost organic in feel, calling to mind watches like the Patek Philippe Nautilus. But the Tsuba’s design has an altogether different influence, and the similarity is incidental. The unusual shape of the case means it’s difficult to manufacture and finish, with dramatic transitions between brushed convex surfaces and polished concave surfaces. The watch is powered by the well-known Vaucher cal. 5401, a thin, sophisticated calibre that helps the Tsuba achieve its appealing slimness of just under 9 mm. The multi-part dials are also worth close examination. The stan...
Deployant
Survey of watches with Year of the Snake theme
The Year of the Snake is approaching fast. The first day of the Chinese (or Lunar) New Year falls on 29 January 2025. This day hails the Year of the Snake.
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The Stairway To Heaven is ArtyA's new magnum opus
Monochrome
Buying Guide – A Look at Some of the Latest and Greatest Watches from the Netherlands
We might be small when looking at a world map, but the Dutch are capable of great things! The thing that first comes to mind is no doubt the stereotypical wooden clogs, tulips and windmills, but we’re capable of far more than that. We’re actually a world leader in water management and a fair few […]
Fratello
Value In Vintage With The Bulova Wrist Alarm Watch
Hunting for vintage watches is a wonderful pursuit, but it can be full of pitfalls. A mechanical object that is decades old can have all sorts of problems that may be hard to diagnose from an online listing. That is why many of the vintage watches I like to peruse in my spare time are […] Visit Value In Vintage With The Bulova Wrist Alarm Watch to read the full article.
Fratello
Hot Take: The New And Improved CIGA Design Blue Planet II
The 2021 GPHG-winning CIGA Design Blue Planet is a unique take on time telling. Its domed dial with an engraved depiction of the earth tells time in a novel way. A good design firm rarely rests on its laurels, though, and the Blue Planet II brings subtle but positive changes. I remember the original CIGA […] Visit Hot Take: The New And Improved CIGA Design Blue Planet II to read the full article.
Time+Tide
6 wild watches that make the most of off the shelf movements
High complications or unique designs don't have to come with a high price tag.The post 6 wild watches that make the most of off the shelf movements appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
7 of the best strap monsters that will eat on any NATO, leather, or rubber strap
Whether you're working with a limited budget or want a versatile piece, a strap monster is always a plus.The post 7 of the best strap monsters that will eat on any NATO, leather, or rubber strap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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