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Editors' Picks: Stop Scrolling And Go Read These Watch Books
Let the sun bounce off the bracelet of your watch as you slowly turn the pages of one of these riveting books on a beach near you.
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Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80 combines great value with hardcore performance
With the barrage of vintage reissue divers on the market, it can be a relief to see a watch that isn’t afraid to play it bold. The Tissot Seastar 200 Professional is exactly that - a bold 600m dive watch without any pretension that’s fantastic value for money. The dial Neither the wave dial nor … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80 combines great value with hardcore performance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: Is the shockingly light G-Shock GMW-B5000TCM in titanium worth the price premium?
EDITOR’S PICK: The G-Shock remains an enduring favourite for combining a super-tough build with a very accessible price point. But with the brand now launching watches in new materials those prices are starting to creep up. So does the G-Shock GMW-B5000TCM still provide bang for its buck? Zach looks back at his first month with … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Is the shockingly light G-Shock GMW-B5000TCM in titanium worth the price premium? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Only Watch 2021: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon
An inventive watchmaker based in Russia, Konstantin Chaykin has combined two of his most notable timepieces to create a unique wristwatch for Only Watch 2021. Bearing a face that resembles his signature Joker, the Martian Tourbillon tells the time on Mars, just like the Mars Conquerer he debuted last year. More intriguingly, the watch is equipped with a tourbillon regulator that makes one revolution every Martian minute – or 61.65 seconds. Initial thoughts Konstantin never fails to impress with his unorthodox approach to watchmaking. The Martian Tourbillon lives up to that reputation. It is quirky, odd, and thoroughly interesting. Given that it indicates time on Mars, its utility here on Earth will be limited, but the Martian Tourbillon encapsulates Konstantin’s versatile and comprehensive approach to a unique timepiece for Only Watch (which was very much the case for his 2019 creation). The Martian Tourbillon even incorporates a literal Martian tourbillon regulator, while having a case made of medieval Russian steel. The only images available of the watch for now are renderings, but I very much look forward to seeing this in person. Martian face The face of the watch indicates the hours on the left sub-dial, while minutes are within the right sub-dial. Just below the “nose” is a half-month indicator for the Darian calendar, invented by aerospace engineer Thomas Gangale for future human colonisers of the Red Planet. And the “smile” indicates sols, or Martian...
Time+Tide
Am I too old for a purple G-Shock? Don’t ask my kids.
Feel free to judge me. After reading my story on wanting a demure 36mm Carrera reissue in 18K gold on a leather strap, you might think I’m losing my marbles buying this dazzling all-metal purple G-Shock, the CasioGMWB5000RD-4. While supposedly red, close-up it’s a vibrant flash of mad purple-ish burgundy. And boy does it it … ContinuedThe post Am I too old for a purple G-Shock? Don’t ask my kids. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
John-Mikaël Flaux Debuts Rearing Horse Automaton Clock
A clock and automaton maker whose timekeepers have taken the form of a running leopard and race car, John-Mikaël Flaux has just unveiled his most complex creation to date. Hand made from brass and steel, Le Cabré is a mechanical sculpture of a rearing Arabian horse with a key-wound clock in its base that doubles as a “mysterious trigger” for the automaton. Initial thoughts Le Cabré is very much mechanical objet d’art – handmade and hand finished, while being complex and extravagant. Automaton-clocks like this have long been part of independent watchmaking, but are typically little appreciated, largely due to their cost (and the necessity of having an office or house grand enough to install one of them). But the craft that goes into creating one is easily understood. Le Cabré is made up of 450 parts, three-quarters hand made by the clockmaker himself, a process that requires 1,500 hours of work according to Mr Flaux. Priced at a little over US$160,000, Le Cabré is substantially more expensive than Mr Flaux’s prior creations, but it is also substantially more complex. At the same time, considerably more lavish automaton clocks that are made of precious metal and decked out in precious stones traditionally have price tags in the millions, making this relatively affordable. Equine ballet Standing 24 cm, or a bit under 10″, Le Cabré is made up of a horse automaton protected by a glass case, sitting on a wood base. It was conceived by Mr Flaux in collaboration...
Time+Tide
The Zelos Mirage 2 marks a step up from microbrand to haute horology
Bravo Elshan! I’m happy to say I have been a (small) part of the rise of Zelos Watches, with two of their tough tools previously in my collection, the Hammerhead and Eagle. Through the sheer determination and creative drive of owner and designer Elshan Tang, Zelos Watches have enjoyed a sharp rise from their 2014 … ContinuedThe post The Zelos Mirage 2 marks a step up from microbrand to haute horology appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Parmigiani refreshes their Tondagraph GT collection with new bi-color dials
Parmigiani refreshes the Tondagraph GT collection with two new models (steel and rose gold) with bi-colour dials with rubber strap or metal bracelet.
SJX Watches
Business News: Richemont Posts Strong Recovery; Watches Continue Decline
After a weak first half, Richemont’s business started its turnaround in the second half of the financial year, which ended in March 2021. From a 25% year-on-year revenue decline in the first half at constant exchange rates, the Swiss luxury group enjoyed a 36% rise in sales in the last quarter. As a result, revenue for the full year was down just 5% compared to the year before, to slightly over €13 billion. The healthy numbers and positive outlook helped send Richemont shares past 100 Swiss francs during trading, a five-year high. Divergent fates Beneath the strong recovery in the group’s numbers lay a recurring theme: a disparity in performance between regions, channels, and divisions. This echoes that of its rivals and the broader luxury-good industry – characterised by a strong recovery in Asia, moderate recovery in the United States, and continued weakness in Europe. And within the group, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels are powering ahead, leaving most of its watchmakers lagging. Continuing a trend that began in the third quarter, sales in Asia Pacific – all Asian countries except Japan – rose by a staggering 106% in the final quarter, boosting revenue in the region by 22% for the year. Asia Pacific sales are now the largest proportion of Richemont’s revenue at 45% of the total, compared to the historical one-third share. The performance was driven by strong sales in China, both in Richemont’s physical stores and its online mall on Alibaba’s Tmall Lu...
Time+Tide
Making a buzz: Ming x Massena Lab collaborate to create honeycomb hotness
Whenever Ming introduces a new watch, the brand’s followers immediately mark their calendars and ensure they set aside time to race to the checkout for one of these highly coveted watches. The designs of this independent watch brand are absolutely distinctive, with every component meticulously crafted to reflect the design language of Ming Thein. Ming … ContinuedThe post Making a buzz: Ming x Massena Lab collaborate to create honeycomb hotness appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph Petrol Blue Titanium
Longines have been leading the nostalgia bandwagon for years now. Their Heritage line has been pumping out hit after hit of vintage-inspired reissue models for much longer than most other Swiss juggernauts, one of the most popular being the Avigation BigEye Chronograph. The original BigEye is full of character, even having won the price in … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph Petrol Blue Titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Is UFC champ Khabib Nurmagomedov just trolling Conor McGregor with his new Jacob & Co collection?
At the start of the year, I was asked by my top-knotted boss (aka Andrew) what my exit watch would be. My answer came to me surprisingly quickly for some reason – the Jacob & Co Twin Turbo Furious Baguette Rose Gold with white diamonds and rubies of course. Why? Because it’s preposterously brilliant, complicated, … ContinuedThe post Is UFC champ Khabib Nurmagomedov just trolling Conor McGregor with his new Jacob & Co collection? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Green Dial
Organised by the Automobile Club de Monaco (ACM), the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique is an annual classic-car race that traditionally takes place before the city’s Formula 1 Grand Prix. As the official timekeeper of the event, TAG Heuer is marking this year’s race with the Monaco Green Dial. A facelifted variant of its iconic square chronograph, the new Monaco features a gradient-green dial that’s a first for the Monaco, but an exceptionally common colour this year. Initial thoughts Arguably the iconic Heuer chronograph by virtue of its unmistakeable 1970s style, the Monaco was introduced in 1969 in honour of the Monaco Grand Prix. An unusual combination of a water-resistant, automatic chronograph with a square case, the Monaco remains the brand’s most recognisable timepiece. While the choice of a green dial may feel modish – dials in this shade seem endless this year even though it’s only April – it is nevertheless well executed. The smoked, metallic finish lends the watch a more nuanced look that separates it from most watches with a green dial. It might not be novel, but I’ve seen the new Monaco in the metal and it is one of the more attractive green dials that I’ve seen to date. While the remake of the original Monaco ref. 1133 “Steve McQueen” would be my pick from the Monaco lineup – I appreciate its historically-faithful design – the new Monaco in green is a great option for someone seeking a more contemporary watch that still possesse...
Revolution
The Tank Cintrée According to Eric Ku
Wei Koh and Eric Ku, discuss the recent meteoric rise of vintage Cartier prices and heightened interest from the collecting community in contemporary Cartier timepieces, along with a deep dive into the Tank Cintrée on the occasion of its 100th anniversary.
Revolution
Introducing the Piaget Polo Skeleton Gold
The new line-up consists of rose gold, white gold with a diamond-set bezel and two fully paved versions with cases and, most impressively, movements that are set with up to 573 brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds.
Revolution
Introducing the Casio GMW-B5000GD-4
A part of G-SHOCK’s “Rose Gold Ingot Series”, the GMW-B5000GD-4 is a stylish addition to the brand’s diverse lineup that offers Multi-Band 6 Atomic timekeeping, solar powered battery, phone-finder function and more.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Longines Heritage Silver Arrow
One of several historical reissues Longines launched this year, the Heritage Silver Arrow is modelled on a wristwatch produced for a brief period starting in 1955. Named after the aluminium-bodied Mercedes race cars of the period, the watch was sleek, simple, and accented with details in the metalwork, something that the remake captures well. Notably, this is the second remake of the Silver Arrow, the first was launched in 2009 as the Silver Arrow 1955, and it had a date at three. Initial thoughts It’s becoming a cliche, but Longines does vintage remakes well and also does a lot of them. The designers at Longines are well versed with remakes, and they have clearly gotten better with time. The Silver Arrow still manages to outdo its peers in many ways, because it manages to get practically everything right. Longines’ remakes are uniformly good, but to varying degrees, and the Silver Arrow is one of the best. That’s helped by the fact that the vintage original is a straightforward watch, with only a few key elements that define the watch. Longines got all that right: the details are reasonably correct and well executed, the quality of finish is good, and the watch is a good size that evokes the feeling of the vintage original. Like all vintage remakes, the Silver Arrow is neither creative nor imaginative, but it is a handsome watch that is strong value for money. And that’s enough to make this a compelling choice for someone looking for a time-only watch in the US$2...
SJX Watches
Russian Custom Shop HoD Presents the “Guiding Star”
A four-person workshop in Moscow, HoD Russia specialises custom watches at affordable prices. Because the team is made up of a sculptor, engraver, and two engineers, HoD’s offerings are diverse in style, with a focus the dial. Cofounder Vasiliy Avitisov describes the brand as specialising in “dials with high relief [made] from a variety of materials”. Amongst its recent project is the “Guiding Star”, commissioned by a watch collector based in Japan. Initial thoughts Conceived alongside the client, the Guiding Star is a good example of what HoD can do. The dial is minimalist in function, yet decorated and visually striking – and it is made in house, from raw material to finished product. The dial is made of an epoxy resin mixed and coloured in HoD’s workshop, and then machined into the dial disc. The purple contrasts against the hobnail guilloche sub-dial, while the client’s initials form the 12 o’clock market, a reminder that the Guiding Star is a custom watch. One of the joys of going full custom, so to speak, is being able to dictate even the smallest of details, such as the buckle. It’s been hand-engraved with the client’s initials flanked by a Japanese wave motif, or seigaiha. The personalised pin buckle With comparable watches starting from US$2,800, the Guiding Star illustrates the brand’s value proposition – time-0nly watches with a high degree of customisation. The affordability means that while the customisation can be elaborate, the ...
Time+Tide
Jason Statham shows that action heroes still wear Panerai
While Panerai was founded way back in 1860, its rise to prominence came on the back of a very specific type of celebrity: the action hero. It was thanks to the likes of Sylvester Stallone and Arnold Schwarzenegger that brand awareness soared following wrist-bound cameos in films like Daylight, Eraser, Rambo IV and The Expendables … ContinuedThe post Jason Statham shows that action heroes still wear Panerai appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
UK rapper Dave adds a Patek Phillipe Aquanaut 5168G in “khaki green” to his stellar collection
Almost a year to the day since Dave made headlines at the annual Brit Awards for his heartfelt performance of hit single Black, Britain’s hottest rapper has got the watch world excited about his wristwear once again. At the Brits, he was wearing head to toe Louis Vuitton by Virgil Abloh with a rose-gold Audemars … ContinuedThe post UK rapper Dave adds a Patek Phillipe Aquanaut 5168G in “khaki green” to his stellar collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Business News: Swissôtel Basel Declared Bankrupt
While not the fanciest hotel in Basel – that title goes to Les Trois Rois across the river – the Swissôtel Le Plaza Basel was synonymous with the luxury watch brands that exhibited in Baselworld, the once dominant watch fair that was crippled by the departure of key exhibitors like Rolex and Patek Philippe, and then the pandemic. Located just across the street from Messe Basel, the sprawling convention centre where Baselworld once took place, the Swissôtel Basel was declared bankrupt by a Basel court in early last month. The hotel was heavily dependent on the city’s primary trade fairs, Art Basel and Baselworld. According to past news reports, over 60% of revenue at the Basel hotel came from trade fair bookings. And those trade fair bookings were exorbitant. So pricey that only the industry’s biggest movers and shakers could stay there – the hotel typically imposed a 10-day minimum stay for Baselworld leading to a bill of about 7000 Swiss francs per room – the Swissôtel Basel was a place where you could spot Thierry Stern, any one of the Hayeks who control Swatch Group, and the occasional Bugatti parked in front. According to industry insiders who had rooms booked for Baselworld 2020, the hotel did not offer refunds and instead moved the bookings to 2021. With clients sitting at the bottom of the ranking of creditors, it is unlikely that any of the fees will be repaid. Though managed by Accor, the French group that owns the Swissôtel brand, the Swissôtel...
SJX Watches
Bulgari Lightens the Octo Finissimo Chronograph with a Strap
Bulgari’s race to the flattest started in 2014, when it started unveiling one complication after another of record-setting slimness, culminating with the thinnest-ever automatic chronograph two years ago. While the original version is monochromatic and all titanium, the new Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Titanium is a twist on the theme. It’s fitted to an integrated rubber strap, in a first for the model that leaves it even more featherweight. Initial thoughts Admittedly – at least from a technical standpoint – the new Octo chronograph isn’t as exciting as it was when the model was first launched. This is just a facelift, but it’s a good one. Though similar to earlier versions of the Octo chronograph, the new model stands out for its palette, which arguably gives it more wrist presence. The original version has an integrated metal bracelet that flowed well in terms of visual continuity. But the strap is compelling for the opposite reason: it makes the extra-thin case stand out, increasing the visual contrast while making the watch look a bit fancier. The elimination of the bracelet will surely change its tangible feel on the wrist substantially. Because of the lightweight materials – a titanium case and strap in rubber – the watch will feel almost non-existent on wrist, taking the ultra-thin nature of the Octo one step forward. And like the time-only version of the Octo, the Chronograph is fairly priced in most iterations. This costs US$17,200, making i...
Time+Tide
Bridgerton’s Regé-Jean Page exudes Big Duke Energy with a Cartier Santos Dumont on The Graham Norton Show
Bridgerton has taken Netflix by storm to become a massive streaming success. The costume drama blends Victorian and modern elements, combining balls and parties with classical covers of Billie Ailish and Arianna Grande. On the back of some particularly racy sex scenes, actor Regé-Jean Page – who plays the reluctant Duke of Hastings – has … ContinuedThe post Bridgerton’s Regé-Jean Page exudes Big Duke Energy with a Cartier Santos Dumont on The Graham Norton Show appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Light years ahead: The CODE41 NB24 Chronograph delivers futuristic looks with a featherlight build
When you observe the collective offerings across conglomerate brands, many of the watches you find are familiar takes on the same old formats and profiles. This has opened some room for micro-brands to rise and introduce watches with more striking aesthetics – bringing refreshing and distinct timepieces to market that often deliver incredible value for … ContinuedThe post Light years ahead: The CODE41 NB24 Chronograph delivers futuristic looks with a featherlight build appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The new G-Shock Full Metal Rich Red is a colourful daily wearer for a hard-knock life
We can all debate what are the best daily wearers, but if the term is based on robustness and reliability there is arguably nothing better than a G-Shock. The Full Metal series elevates the offering from resin cases and straps, to a full stainless-steel build – even titanium in the more premium editions. So far … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new G-Shock Full Metal Rich Red is a colourful daily wearer for a hard-knock life appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Silver
Launched alongside the Chronomaster Sport at LVMH Watch Week, the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Silver is a limited edition that’s a nod to Zenith’s long history of aviation watches – with a twist. While the style is the 1920s-inspired look typical of Zenith’s Pilot range, the new chronograph is dressed entirely in sterling silver, giving it a bright finish. Inspired by the aluminium bodies of vintage aircraft, the silver case will darken with time as the alloy oxidises, but the dial will remain pristine, protected by the case. Initial thoughts Zenith has been on a tear in recent years, introducing a diversity of watches, ranging from the Chronomaster Revival A385 to the mind-boggling Defy Inventor. Few of the new launches were Pilot models, resulting in a quiet spell for the line, a shame considering Zenith’s storied heritage in aviation watches. The new chronograph will no doubt do its part to revive the line. Pilot’s watches are often aesthetically conservative – not so here. The Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Silver is meant to stand out on the wrist, and I’m all for it. I had the opportunity to interact with a prototype, and the riveted, silver dial looks even better in the metal. The brushed surface has a shimmering quality that changes under different light, allowing it to catch the eye from every angle. Clad in silver The Chronograph Silver is cased in sterling silver, or 925, indicating it is 92.5% silver by weight. While not the first Pilot ...
Time+Tide
2021 Watch Predictions: Will the Tudor Black Bay 58 replace the 41mm line-up?
Look, I don’t have a crystal ball that can tell me which new watches will or will not drop this year. But when people raise the question of whether or not the Black Bay Fifty-Eight with its 39mm dial will replace the 41mm line in the Tudor catalogue, I am not afraid to share my … ContinuedThe post 2021 Watch Predictions: Will the Tudor Black Bay 58 replace the 41mm line-up? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Henriot Cuvée Hemera 2005: 100% Grand Cru Vineyards Make For A Seamless New Prestige Champagne
Henriot is an interesting winemaker that often sneaks in under the radar, which is surprising as it produces champagnes of exquisite quality. The Henriot range comprises the NV Brut Souverain, an NV Blanc de Blancs, a Rosé, a vintage Brut, a vintage Rosé, the prestige champagne Hemera, and an outlier, Cuve 38. Ken Gargett pours himself a few glasses, reports here, and calls it a job well done.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The BOLDR Odyssey Freediver melds style and substance at an eyebrow-raising price
BOLDR is a well-established microbrand with a strong following, which we covered earlier this year in a story on their tough, keenly priced Venture titanium field watch. We suspect there might be something new coming in January (hint!) but, for the moment, let’s take a look at the rugged BOLDR Odyssey Freediver that’s recently been … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The BOLDR Odyssey Freediver melds style and substance at an eyebrow-raising price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: The New York Times pulls back the iron curtain on Raketa
When it comes to watches, we too often think of the Swiss – with the German and Japanese manufacturers no longer trailing far behind. But watchmaking is truly a global enterprise. In Russia, many collectors will immediately think of Konstantin Chaykin’s maverick creations. But there is also a larger manufacturer, with a surprising amount of … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The New York Times pulls back the iron curtain on Raketa appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.