1,405 articles · 87 videos found · page 36 of 50
Doxa's 1967 Cousteau-endorsed dive watch. First orange dial, US Navy no-decompression bezel, 300m.
Wristshot gallery from the Horlogeforum Doxa thread.
Revolution
The Vulcain x Seconde Seconde x Revolution Cricket Tradition “Vulcain Salute” takes the Vulcain Cricket Tradition sublimely resurrected by Guillaume Laidet, and introduces the witty artistic flair of humorist, Romaric André, better known by his pseudonym Seconde Seconde. The running seconds hand has been replaced by an animated, colored rendition of the famous Vulcan salute […]
Time+Tide
Movement masters Agenhor have had their fingers in so many pies that one article can’t cover all of their unique takes on complications. We’ve already looked at their involvement with the likes of Arnold & Son and Harry Winston, and today explore their involvement with Fabergé, Hermès, MB&F;, Parmigiani Fleurier and Van Cleef & Arpels. … ContinuedThe post Agenhor, and the many movements of the Genevan complication masters (Part 2) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
While we are already quite a bit into 2023, Martin Green contemplates the year we left behind. He finds that sometimes it takes a while to understand and appreciate a new watch. Here he looks at a few of his favorite watches of 2022.
Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux has updated their Laureato with a unique case in two flavors via a pair of watches called the Absolute Light & Shade, and Absolute Light & Fire. What might sound like a fancy new vodka cocktail concoction is actually representative of two takes on a translucent case that’s been subjected to a metallisation process. The result are these Shade and Fire themed Laureato watches, rendered in clear but smokey gray and red tones. The rather complex case shape makes for an interesting experience in this material, while the opacity level means the intricate details aren’t lost in the mix. G-P’s take on the high-end integrated sports watch has always stood a bit outside the norm when it comes to these things, and it’s served all the better for it in this execution. The Laureato was launched in 1975, a year before the Patek Philippe Nautilus, and three years after the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Then and now, the watch stands in good company and while it’s managed to skirt much of the hype that once riddled the references above, it’s remained a low-key favorite of long-time enthusiasts looking to fly under the radar. What these new models lack in subtlety, however, they make up for in their avant garde execution. It’s also worth noting that a 38mm steel Laureato can still be had at retail for under $15k. The Light & Shade and Light & Fire join Girard-Perregaux’s Absolute Laureato collection, which was introduced in 2019. The Light & Shade features a ...
Revolution
Ricardo Guadalupe CEO of Hublot takes Wei through the brand’s novelties at LVMH watch week in Singapore. Sporting the most unearthly shade of yellow is the spectacular Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic that is crafted from SAXEM, an alloy derived from mixing aluminium oxide with other elements such as thulium, holmium and chromium to achieve a […]
Time+Tide
As business ventures, microbrands can sometimes seem a little bit soulless. All it takes is one person with some starting capital and a catalogue of parts to put together an attractive watch that offers good value for money, but that formula is becoming harder and harder to replicate for watch enthusiasts whose collections are beginning … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Canopy Wake One is an affordable luxury diver with Goldilocks dimensions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
There exists a droll class of watch for which telling time takes a back seat to the packaging itself. And the Azimuth Mr. Roboto Bronzo Artist Series is a great example of this class, Tim Mosso explains why.
Teddy Baldassarre
As you start to read this article, let’s first see how much time it takes. Start by checking the time on your watch. Now stop and note which of your wrists you just raised to read the watch’s dial. For the vast majority of us, it’s the left wrist, right (er… correct)? Did you ever wonder how wearing a watch on one’s left arm became the norm? Let us briefly trace the evolution of portable timekeeping to arrive at the explanation. Wristwatches, of course, were not the first means by which individuals carried the time around with them. As I explore more extensively in this article, the first watches were essentially miniature clocks worn on a chain around the neck. These somewhat unwieldy timekeepers gave way to pocket watches, which were smaller, more streamlined, and could be worn stylishly inside the pocket of a waistcoat. When one wanted to check the time (as below), one simply reached for his watch inside one of these pockets to consult it, and then stash it again until it was needed. Utilitarianism and practicality, however, have always been at the core of watchmaking, and the pocket watch ultimately proved to be too impractical for the needs of an evolving 20th-century society. Women started wearing timepieces as bangles on their bracelets as early as the 1800s, but it wasn’t until the 1900s that the utility of a wrist-worn watch became apparent to the male population at large, which had long considered such a device feminine. It started with Louis Cartier...
Quill & Pad
When your F.P Journe isn’t a typical F.P. Journe, but it is a 100 percent real F.P. Journe through and through, it must be a Vagabondage. The Vagabondage I Gold of 2022 is Journe's final foray into the alternate reality of the Vagabondage lifestyle and Joshua Munchow takes a look back at how and why we arrived at this final Vagabondage edition in 2022.
Quill & Pad
Not long after Walter Lange reestablished his forefathers’ company A. Lange & Söhne, once Germany’s most famous watch manufacture, he recognized that training the next generation of watchmakers would be crucial for both the long-term prosperity of his company and the local watchmaking industry and population. Sabine Zwettler takes a look at how that training has evolved.
Time+Tide
With some of the more out-there design choices of the late ’90s and early ’00s coming back into fashion, it takes an extremely keen eye to come out with a range which matches that energy without looking too dated or clunky. The Tissot PRS 516 Automatic Chronograph and Powermatic 80 are watches that capture the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Tissot PRS 516 Automatic Chronograph delivers the high-octane essence of modern racing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Come dream with us – all it takes is a little inspiration and some entry-level Photoshop skills.
Time+Tide
You’re probably familiar with the concept of “dog years”. This is the idea that dogs age at approximately seven times the rate of humans and so we should consider their relative ages in this way. Whereas a seven-year-boy might still be fascinated by cartoons, whoopee cushions and nerf guns, a dog that is seven (in … ContinuedThe post The Louis Vuitton Tambour book is like an in-depth biography of the brand’s favourite model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Wei takes us through our latest collaboration with Montres Jacques Bianchi - our take on the contemporary reissue of the JB200, a “destro” dive watch originally commissioned by the French Navy and created by legendary Marseille watchmaker, Jacques Bianchi. Limited to 150 pieces, the JB200 “Méduse” features the silhouette of a scuba diver, now fully […]
SJX Watches
For its 25th anniversary last year, Parmigiani debuted La Rose Carrée, a grande sonnerie pocket watch that was entirely hand engraved and enamelled in blue. While it was a one-off creation, the pocket watch has spawned a collection of five minute repeaters, Les Roses Carrées. Each of the five will be unique and the very first is La Rosa Celeste, a minute repeating wristwatch that takes after the pocket watch in both decoration and detail. Initial thoughts As is typical of Parmigiani’s top-of-the-line compilations, La Rosa Celeste is impressive in both its decoration and complication, but it has an unusual modern feel. Although the case is intricately engraved, the clean dial gives it a contemporary feel, so it doesn’t have the old-fashioned ornateness that such watches often possess. With the lavish engraving and generous enamelling, the case makes a statement on the wrist, even more so with its size. At 42 mm in diameter and over 13 mm high, La Rosa Celeste is a big watch, a little too big to be as elegant as its decoration. But the size is no doubt also meant to give it presence, which it will surely have. La Rosa Celeste is finely crafted and artisanally decorated, which inevitably means it is expensive, or CHF600,000 to be exact. That’s a hefty sum but par for the course for a watch like this. Repeating roses and blue enamel Of all the elements of the watch, the dial is the simplest in terms of style. It’s almost minimalist with small, square hour markers...
Hodinkee
Six watches, six different takes on one of watchmaking's hardest to define categories.
Quill & Pad
GaryG was unable to attend the November 2022 Geneva watch auctions, but like many of his friends he followed online. Here he takes a look at the results from the “big three” auction houses – Phillips, Christie’s, and Sotheby’s – to discern some patterns and provide knowledgeable commentary.
Revolution
Launched in 2017, the Greubel Forsey Grande Sonnerie is one of the brand’s most complicated and innovative timepieces. Wei takes a closer look at this repeater with a 43.5 x 16.13mm case, 72 hours of power reserve and a hand-finished tourbillon inclined at 25 degrees that completes a full rotation every 24 seconds. Its crisp […]
Quill & Pad
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique from 2016 is a dress tourbillon of the modern era that does much more than look pretty. Tim Mosso takes a closer look here and divulges in-depth background.
Hodinkee
Two similar takes with two very different price tags.
SJX Watches
Having covered highlights from the independent watchmakers at Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV, we now dive into the complicated timepieces in the sale that takes place on November 28 and 29 – an appropriate theme given that the three most valuable lots according to the estimates are complicated watches from Patek Philippe. In this roundup, we look at nine lots that stand out. Some like the ref. 5207P with the uncommon mahogany guilloche dial are six-figure, headline lots, while others are value propositions that might slip under the radar but worth noting, like the Cartier Privé Tonneau XL Skeleton Dual Time. Registration for bidding and the entire catalogue for sale can be accessed here. The ref. 5207P with a brown guilloche dial and matching obsidian inlays in the case and slide Lot 817: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone “Buenos Aires” Here, we have the Lange 1 Time Zone that was first introduced in 2005. With the trademark Lange 1 dial layout and oversized date, the Time Zone maintains the recognisable Lange 1 style with its “Golden Proportions” despite being able to do much more than a standard Lange 1. This particular variant came about when Buenos Aires retailer Simonetta Orsini requested a limited edition for Argentina. The cities disc thus has Buenos Aires (“B. AIRES”) to indicate UTC-03:00, instead of Rio de Janeiro as is the norm for the model. But more significant for the Lange enthusiast is the silver dial with blue hands and ma...
Hodinkee
Takes one to know one.
SJX Watches
De Bethune’s latest invention aims to customise the regulation of a mechanical watch to suit the individual owner. Dubbed the Sensoriel Chronometry Project, it takes the form of a electronic wrist instrument that measures the wearer’s activities and environmental conditions over a two week period – gathering two million data points per hour according to the brand. With this voluminous quantity of data, De Bethune will then regulate a DB28GS Grand Bleu sports watch specifically for the particular owner, optimising timekeeping based on the wearer’s activities. [Updated to include response from Denis Flageollet.] Initial thoughts On paper the Sensoriel is interesting and impressive, but on reflection it raises several questions. For one, the two million data points recorded per hour – for a two-week period – results in an extraordinary amount of information on the wearer’s activities. Can any mechanical watch be regulated to a fine enough resolution that makes even a fraction of that data useful? My knowledge of watchmaking is certainly inexpert but I am sceptical. Mr Flageollet points out De Bethune utilises an algorithm to process the data and sieve out the “elements specific to the wearer, in a way to bring out a specific chronometric DNA for each wearer”, allowing the watch to be regulated according to a smaller number of data points. The second salient point is more philosophical. Historically the pursuit of chronometry meant good timekeeping regardless...
Time+Tide
It’s no secret that microbrands can often provide incredible watches for the money, but that doesn’t mean that they can get away with putting no effort in. Slapping together a list of specifications at a low price point might seem like the key to Kickstarter success, but it takes a lot of planning, intuition, and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Varon Chiri Blazer is a dressy everyday watch for a remarkable price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
“The Holy Trinity,” as any watch nerd knows, refers to the triumvirate of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin. Colin Smith takes a look at what we mean – or think we mean - when we describe PP, AP, and VC as the “Holy Trinity” of watchmaking and when we describe a timepiece as our “grail watch.”
Time+Tide
Comedy comes in many forms. Some stand-ups prefer one-liners, hot-takes on political and social issues, dating disasters, or embellished “true” stories. And then there are individuals like Will Ferrell, who effortlessly seems to be able to make anything funny. He proved this yet again on a recent episode of The Tonight Show with Jimmy Fallon, … ContinuedThe post Will Ferrell brings “rare baby Bengal tiger” and Zenith watch to Tonight Show with Jimmy Fallon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko and special releases – name a better love story. The duo we’re looking at today, the air-inspired silvery SBGW291 Kuuki and earthy SBGW293 Tsuji, continue the prolonged celebration of the 55th anniversary of the brand’s 44GS case. Famous for its sharp, reflective facets and plentiful wrist presence, it takes on a reduced form … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s elemental SBGW293 and SBGW291 are a celebration of fine details appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In a long anticipated move, the organisers of Watches & Wonders – now the world’s most important luxury-watch fair – have just revealed the 2023 exhibition will be open to the public on its final two days. The event takes place in Geneva from March 27 to April 2, 2023, so the public days will be on the first two days of April. Simultaneously, the organisers also debuted the Watches & Wonders Geneva Foundation (WWGF). According to the announcement, the decision to create the foundation was taken by Rolex, Richemont, and Patek Philippe. Both the public days and WWGF are evidence that the Geneva giants, Rolex and Patek Philippe, now have a lead role in the city’s major watch fair. Historically that position was occupied by Richemont, the luxury group that owns a stable of brands ranging from Cartier to IWC. New titles for Messrs Dufour and Perrin The WWGF will “organise… watch and jewellery exhibitions, in Geneva and beyond… and define the major strategic areas of this ambitious project.” Most notable is the fact the the WWGF will be chaired by Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour, while its deputy chairman is Emmanuel Perrin, head of Richemont’s watch division. Though unstated, it is implied that the WWGF succeed the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), which was long the organiser of SIHH and also of this year’s W&W;. Though technically independent, the FHH was regarded by the industry as being dominated by Richemont. Anyone can now walk the ha...
Hodinkee
It feels good to have a whisper-thin watch on the wrist. Does it feel six times better when it costs $8,600 instead of $1,275? Today, the JLC Master Ultra Thin Date takes on the La Grande Classique de Longines.
SJX Watches
An exhibition focused on “microbrands”, Spring Sprang Sprung takes place in Singapore from October 28-30, 2022. Happening at XM Studio, a workshop best known for its hand-made comic figurines, the exhibition encompasses 21 watch brands and a leather goods maker. The exhibition was the brainchild of local retailer Red Army Watches (RAW) and Singapore-based micro brand Feynman Timekeepers. Exhibiting brands include Havaan Tuvali, Vario, and Atelier Wen. The flagship wristwatch from Feynman with a hand-made cloisonné enamel dial Dive watches in bronze from Zelos A city state that boasts a high density of high-end watch collectors, Singapore also has a thriving community of enthusiasts who cherish fun and inexpensive timepieces. In fact, several micro brands have emerged from Singapore, such as Feynman and Zelos. The appreciation of micro brands has been developed in large part by RAW, long a proponent of affordable watchmaking. With stores in Singapore, Malaysia, and Brunei, RAW carries a range of micro brands, including several that are showing at Spring Sprang Sprung. It was RAW founder Sugiharto Kusumadi and Yong Keong Lim, the founder of Feymann, who provided the impetus for the exhibition. The Vario Popeye jumping hour The Atelier Wen Perception with a hand-made guilloche dial Spring Sprang Sprung takes place October 28-30 at XM Studios in Singapore. It is open to public daily from 11:00 am-6:00 pm, except for Sunday when it closes at 5:00 pm. Admission is fre...
Question, suggestion, or just want to say hi? Drop a note.