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Time+Tide
An arrest warrant has been issued for Toke Match's founder, who has allegedly sold customer's watches rather than returning them.The post Japanese peer-to-peer watch rental company Toke Match shuts down, with watch owners left in the lurch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
As I’ve gotten more and more involved in the watch world over the years, something that’s become a great interest to me is accessible craft in watchmaking. We all know that you can spend five figures (or more) on a watch and get a movement with meticulously hand finished and polished bevels, for instance, but what I’m really drawn to is the brands that are able to do impressive things the old fashioned way at more accessible price points. Think of anOrdain’s enamel dials, for instance, or the handmade silver cases from James Lamb. We frequently look to smaller operations for this kind of work, but large brands are capable of surprising us with unusual craft techniques as well, and we were reminded of that a few weeks with the introduction of a pair of new watches by Citizen using their impressive Washi paper dials. These watches fall into The Citizen collection from Citizen, one of my favorite names for a collection, even as it drives my editor brain kind of insane. Yes, the watches are called “The Citizen” in the same way the iconic diver made by Rolex is the “Submariner.” I’ll be honest, I don’t know the origin of the use of the definite article in the collection’s name, or anything about the decision to name these watches after the brand itself. Frankly, I don’t want to know, because I like the story I’ve created in my head of Citizen creating a collection that they feel perfectly defines their brand to such a degree that you could call it Th...
Worn & Wound
We’re huge fans around here of ochs und junior, an independent brand known for radically simple executions of complications that are traditionally anything but. Their latest is a release of one of their most whimsical and complex pieces, the Day/Night, which was first seen in 2018 but now enters the “ochs line,” meaning it gets a standardized, serialized production, without the vast array of customization options offered on most watches in the brand’s catalog. That said, considering the astronomical nature of the complication, some custom work is required, so the Day/Night really splits the difference. Even more than ochs und junior’s fairly radical calendar watches, the Day/Night really shows off the ingenuity at work behind Ludwig Oechslin’s watchmaking. Looking at the dial, it’s hard to grasp at first exactly what you’re seeing. The time, of course, but the rest of the indicators are so far removed from what we’re used to seeing on a watch, the Day/Night really does require something of a primer to fully grasp. Here’s what you can see at a glance on the dial: the length of day and nighttime for a given location, sunset, sunrise, solar noon, moon phase, sun and moon position in the sky, the date, and of course the current time. Much of this information is dependent on the wearer’s current location, so in the ordering process, ochs und junior make a note of where the watch will live, and create a custom part to “synch” the watch to that locatio...
Worn & Wound
Louis Erard’s appeal is that of a legitimately independent brand mixes a taste of high horology with compelling value. Across the entire Excellence collection, we see various design elements, materials, and finishing techniques that belie the watches’ price points. A hands-on experience with the collection brings a new level of appreciation for the level of detail that each particular model boasts. Take the Louis Erard Excellence Petite Seconde, the brand’s take on an elevated everyday watch. After marveling at the striking dial colors and complementary straps, we appreciate the harmony of the various textures and dial elements. On the other hand, the Regulateur Lapis-Lazuli wows us with its ultramarine and speckled blue stone dial, which is accentuated by using an interesting and uncommon regulator format. Not to be outdone, the Excellence Guilloché Main II is a master class of high-end finishing at a more approachable price than most. The lines comprising the concentric circles and diamond are intricately etched using a rose engine lathe in a process pioneered by Abraham-Louis Breguet. We’re excited to offer the Louis Erard Excellence collection in the Windup Watch Shop because, simply put, they are special. Zach Weiss gets hands-on with the watches in our latest video here. Louis Erard’s appeal is that of a legitimately independent brand mixes a taste of high horology with compelling value. Across the entire Excellence collection, we see various design elemen...
Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a new Reverso Tribute in tribute to the Year of the Dragon, featuring black enamel and an engraved case back.
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SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux has revealed the newest iteration of its sports chronograph, the Laureato Chronograph Ti49 – the name is a reference to the 49th anniversary of a model originally created for the Italian market. The new chronograph retains all the characteristics of the current version in steel but is entirely in titanium and matched with a monochromatic grey dial. Initial thoughts A titanium sports chronograph isn’t revolutionary – there are a lot of them on the market – but the new Laureato possesses qualities that distinguish it from the competition. The low-key, all-grey aesthetic is appealing and also reduces the visual heft of the watch. In spite of its considerable size of 42 mm, the all-titanium construction reduces the bulky feel. Furthermore, the short lugs help with the fit on the wrist. And more so than the steel versions with variously coloured dial, this grey dial has a retro feel as it evokes the original integrated-bracelet sports watches of the 1970s, the very watches that inspired the Laureato, which almost uniformly sported grey-blue dials. The chronograph carries a price tag of US$19,400, a US$800 hike over the steel version. For a lightweight, monochromatic variant of the model, the premium is justified. All grey Based on the current Laureato Chronograph that made its debut in 2018, the Laureato Chronograph Ti49 marks the 49th anniversary of the 1975 launch of the Laureato, which was reputedly named after the 1967 Dustin Hoffman film The Gradu...
Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin threw the kitchen sink at the dial of the blue Overseas. And boy, is it good.The post The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph has the best blue in the business appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Last year, Aquastar released a modern interpretation of one of its earliest watches, the Model 60. The no-nonsense black dial paired with a utile skin-diver case made it an instant hit. Now a new dial color joins the fray. The limited-production Greenwich Edition has a dark green dial that works well with the design. It […] Visit Hot Take: The Aquastar Model 60 Greenwich Edition to read the full article.
Monochrome
Since the 1970s, Yema has been partnering with various branches of the French defence force as an official supplier of timing instruments. This longstanding partnership encompassed various iterations of Yema’s iconic Superman dive watch, which could be found on the wrists of Helicopter Rescue Divers as well as French Air Force Pilots. Expanding its collection, […]
Fratello
If you are not a fan of titanium watches, the Zenith Chronomaster Sport will confirm the number-one issue you might have with them. Straight out of the box, this new Chronomaster Sport feels super lightweight. If you want a watch to have some substantial heft, this is not the watch for you. But that’s the […] Visit Hands-On With The Glorious Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium - A Watch That Plays Clever Mind Games to read the full article.
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Worn & Wound
Ollech & Wajs has announced a new chronograph inspired by the golden age of motorsport. The OW Rallychron joins the collection this spring, and it’s a watch with at once appears traditional, and pulled straight from a 1960s race track, and also has some Easter eggs that racing aficionados will surely appreciate. Ollech & Wajs releases are always notable in our view because of the brand’s unique, somewhat offbeat sensibility, and their habit of overbuilding their watches to an almost comical degree. The OW Rallychron has a 39.5mm stainless steel case that is completely brushed, and is based on heritage chronographs from the Ollech & Wajs catalog. And while this watch has the appearance of being track ready, it has water resistance to 300 meters, so it will easily stand up to any water related activities you throw at it, or any unfortunate track related incidents that become water related activities. Unsurprisingly, the case is a tad thick to accommodate the water resistance (and the Valjoux 7753 movement), measuring in at 15.3mm. The dial is gray with black subdials, and is inspired by grayscale news photography that you might have seen in the 1960s when racing was covered in the media. It makes this one a muted and somewhat understated affair, even with what is likely to be a somewhat massive wrist presence given the case height. The hands offer the first bit of racing inspired design, with hour and minute hands being given a checkered pattern, recalling, of course, ...
Monochrome
On one side is Maurice Lacroix, a serious brand with a strong position in the accessible luxury watch segment, but also some serious watchmaking skills with its Masterpiece range. On the other side is Label Noir, a Geneva-based customisation atelier in operation since 2011, with an exciting portfolio – which also happens to include a […]
Worn & Wound
Evergoods, the brainchild of Jack Barley and Kevin Dee, has released a new backpack, proving once again that big things come in small packages. Founded in 2016, Evergoods set out with one mission: “Create long-lasting, high-quality crossover equipment. Combining their experience from working at some of the biggest names in the outdoor industry (Goruck and Patagonia), Barley and Dee built Evergoods from the ground up, literally. After designing custom furniture for their facility in Bozeman, MT, the team rapidly moved to create their two flagship products, the Civic Panel Loader 24 (CPL) and the Mountain Panel Loader 30 (MPL). From these two products, they would expand their staff and product lines, becoming a leader in the soft-goods industry. Their newest release, the CPL16, builds upon the iconic legacy of its big sibling, the CPL24. Made from a solution-dyed custom-made 840d ballistic nylon, YKK reverse coil zippers, a highly breathable back panel, and a water-repellent coating, this pack was made to conquer your day with ease. The sleek exterior of the pack features a standard top handle, as well as a side handle allowing you to carry it like a briefcase. Moving inside, you’ll find a largely open main compartment with an internal stretch pocket perfect for carrying folders or books, and a fully padded laptop compartment capable of fitting up to a 16” MacBook Pro. Evergoods describes this pack the best, saying “It’s the do-it-all workhorse of an EDC bag you ...
Worn & Wound
Don’t look now, but it feels like luxury watch brands are finally beginning to discover what many in the enthusiast community have known for quite some time, namely that titanium rules, and that given the proper attention, it can clean up pretty nicely and actually look quite refined. We recently saw Zenith debut their Chronomaster Sport in titanium, and it’s not really a surprise that their sportiest watch translates particularly well in the material. Now, just weeks later, Girard-Perregaux has unveiled a new Laureato Chronograph reference in titanium, the Laureato Chronograph Ti49. While Girard-Perregaux has had other titanium Laureatos in their catalog, this is the first time the classic case profile has been presented in grade 5 titanium. That’s important, because the Laureato case is essential to understanding the watch. The chronograph case measures 42mm in diameter and is just 12mm tall, and the case is gentler and curvier than other integrated bracelet sports watches that were introduced in the same era (the Laureato was introduced in 1975). In steel, the Laureato Chronograph has an imposing heft, and you feel every ounce in that watch’s wrist presence. In titanium, the chronograph presents very differently, and has that shockingly light feeling that people who swear by titanium have always known and loved. What’s special about this watch is that, similar to the Zenith linked above, Girard-Perregaux has paid special attention to the dial, picking a co...
Fratello
Last July, Omega decided it was time to introduce the watch for the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris. Ben wrote about the new Seamaster Diver 300M Paris 2024 edition here. The combination of the white dial and Moonshine Gold bezel insert struck a chord with me, but it wasn’t until a few months later when […] Visit Hands-On With The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Paris 2024 Edition to read the full article.
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Hodinkee
Showing some love to some less hyped options from the brand with an affinity for nature-inspired dial designs.
Deployant
We reviewed the Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum last year, and were impressed on how BR achieved this lume on the watch. We investigate.
Worn & Wound
Swiss brand Maurice Lacroix, in collaboration with Label Noir, unveils the latest iteration of its Masterpiece Skeleton, the Masterpiece Skeleton Label Noir. While many in the industry may be getting collab fatigue, it’s hard to deny that this new release isn’t the perfect example of a partnership done right: each party leaning on the other’s strength to make something truly impressive. Building upon the success of their previous collaboration on the AIKON model in 2020, Maurice Lacroix and Label Noir join forces again to recreate the magic that was this original release. The Masterpiece Skeleton Label Noir pushes the boundaries of design even further for Maurice Lacroix, showcasing that a well-crafted timepiece can, at times, venture outside the box to make something that expands the brand’s identity in new ways. With the Masterpiece Skeleton, Maurice Lacroix pays homage to skeleton watches while embracing modern technology. In particular, the Masterpiece Skeleton uses both CNC and CAD technology to bring a level of minute detail to their eye-catching design. In doing so, Maurice Lacroix’s artisans have produced a product in which every detail of the movement is both precise and reliable, while still maintaining its captivating filigreed appearance. The mechanical movement of the Masterpiece Skeleton is the Manufacture ML134 caliber, adorned with Grand Colimaçon, sand-blasted finishing and bridges with polished edges. As with all Maurice Lacroix watches, ...
Monochrome
MB&F; undertook its maiden voyage into the galaxy of women’s watches with the launch of its Legacy Machine Flying T in 2019. After 14 years of masterminding complex watches for men, Max Büsser’s Legacy Machine Flying T flaunted all the attributes associated with MB&F; watches but in a more feminine format – or even a […]
Monochrome
While we all very well know who created the luxury sports watch segment, and what was the first sporty-chic watch with integrated bracelet, it must be said that other iconic models came on the market soon after. Following the 1972 Royal Oak, 1976 saw the introduction of the Nautilus and 1977 the launch of the […]
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Time+Tide
GP drop a sporty, monochromatic titanium take on their popular integrated luxury sports watch.The post The sporty Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49 is the first-ever titanium Laureato reference appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
As you may have read on Fratello before, Seiko is celebrating the 100th anniversary of having this brand name on its watches’ dials this year. The house is introducing limited anniversary editions of new models throughout the year to commemorate this. Today, the Astron line sees a big new release, including an anniversary LE. These […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph SSH151, SSH153, SSH155, And Limited SSH156 to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Interest in mezcal has exploded in markets like the United States. Others have been a little slower to get on board but it is happening. And that is thanks to the top shelf, artisanal craft efforts. Here Ken Gargett takes a deep dive into mezcal and warns off drinking the bottles with a worm.
SJX Watches
Already collaborators on several projects, Dominique Renaud, one of the founders of Renaud & Papi, and Julien Tixier, a young watchmaker and constructor, have established Renaud Tixier, a brand backed by investors. The inaugural creation of Renaud Tixier is Monday, a time-only watch with an automatic movement sporting a novel micro-rotor. Conceived to realise Mr Renaud’s many concepts and inventions, Renaud Tixier also aims to blend the styles of the two watchmakers. Each of the namesake founders comes from a different generation of watchmaking – pre- and post-Quartz Crisis – but the duo enjoy a shared philosophy that have made their past projects a success, something they are hoping to replicate with Renaud Tixier. Initial thoughts On a macro level, the Renaud Tixier and its first watch are noteworthy for a few reasons. One of its main points of appeal, at least initially, is the name, specifically Dominique Renaud. Even though he departed Renaud & Papi (APRP) over 20 years ago, his name still carries weight, particularly since many alumni of APRP, Anthony de Haas of Lange and Carole Forestier of TAG Heuer for instance, speak well of him. The name will certainly help sell the watch, particularly in countries with a strong reverence for creators and history, like Japan for example. And the fact that it’s a micro-rotor is noteworthy. Though relatively common in high-end watchmaking, micro-rotors are rare amongst independent watchmakers. The most prominent indie mak...
Time+Tide
With its roots embedded in the late 1920s, the Vulcain Grand Prix isn't the racing watch you think it might be.The post The Vulcain Grand Prix honours the brand’s award-winning history appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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