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Fratello
ISOfrane straps have a special place in diving history. As a 1960s creation, the original model became a fixture for divers due to its flexibility, durability, and comfort. Today, modern versions of the straps are used both for their original purpose and as everyday accompaniments. Until now, though, only one design was available. Today, we […] Visit Hands-On: The New ISOfrane VS 1969 Straps to read the full article.
Monochrome
As the end of the year draws nigh and the festive season is about to kick off, we need to look back at what has been a rather surprising dozen months for the watch industry. Although the market isn’t at its best, we’ve rarely seen so many watch launches. As every year, the MONOCHROME team […]
Fratello
It’s hard to believe that we’re already looking back on the best watches of 2025. This year flew by! Still, there were a lot of releases, and, frankly, some were great. I stepped back from purchasing vintage watches this year and focused more on new pieces. The reason was clear: modern pieces made an impact […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2025 - Mike’s Picks From Ming, Parmigiani Fleurier, Aquastar, And More to read the full article.
SJX Watches
By the early 1930s, Henry Graves Jr lived a life shaped by precision, inheritance, and permanence. It was from this vantage - both social and literal - that he took up residence behind the limestone façade of 834 Fifth Avenue, Rosario Candela’s neo-Renaissance co-operative that replaced hulking mansions with what contemporary coverage called “a series of luxurious homes” in a building that was promised to be “a worthy and lasting landmark”. The promise held: in 2007 the New York Observer called the address “the most pedigreed building on the snobbiest street in the country’s most real estate–obsessed city.” This reputation was sustained in part by its prodigious roster of illustrious owners, from Berwind and Rockefeller to Murdoch and Blavatnik, names that reflect the same social altitude that drew Graves there in the first place. 834 Fifth Avenue where Henry Graves Jr. lived when he received the Supercomplication in 1933. Image – The New York Public Library/collage. From the window of his high apartment, Graves could watch the constellations lift over the dark mass of branches and the curving drives, the lamps along the park paths thinning as the air cleared towards the river. Inside, in a room lined with paintings and prints, a heavy yellow gold watch lay on a table. Opened on its reverse dial, it carried that same sky, compressed into enamel and gold, calculated for this exact latitude and this exact view. The Supercomplication framed the night ...
SJX Watches
From one-off artistic creations to new escapement technologies, 2025 delivered more than its share of surprises and unexpected developments. Brands with institutional research and development departments led the way with unexpected material breakthroughs, while Geneva’s oldest watchmaker surprised (and delighted) with a clock of astronomical proportions. Rolex Land-Dweller and Dynapulse Escapement - SJX Given its institutional nature, Rolex rarely surprises, but when it does, the brand does so in a big way. The Land-Dweller was unquestionably one of the biggest debuts from Rolex in a long time. The integrated bracelet design is certainly a departure from the prevailing house style, but the Land-Dweller is a landmark mainly for the movement inside, the cal. 7135 that boasts the Dynapulse escapement. While Rolex movements have enjoyed largely incremental improvements for years, the cal. 7135 in the Land-Dweller is a radical break because it’s an all-new movement with an all-new escapement. The Dynapulse escapement is one of the most forward-thinking inventions by Rolex, arguably ever. A double-wheel, detached and indirect-tangential impulse escapement, the Dynapulse is arguably among the most advanced escapements on the market today – and the cal. 7135 is probably the most precise self-winding movement on the market. More crucially, it is being produced at scale. A new escapement is an achievement, but a new escapement manufactured in large numbers is a bona fide fea...
Teddy Baldassarre
Mickey Mouse is one of the world’s most iconic and recognizable characters and the smiling face of Disney Entertainment, whose vast universe of properties today encompasses everything from Cinderella to Spider-Man to Star Wars. The world first discovered Mickey way back in 1928, in the groundbreaking black-and-white cartoon Steamboat Willie. It was one of the very first cartoon films with synchronized sound and a milestone achievement for Mickey’s co-creator, Walt Disney, who had founded his eponymous animation studio with his brother Roy O. Disney five years earlier, in 1923. Today, that studio is a worldwide force in entertainment and Mickey Mouse’s image can be found on just about every type of merchandise you can imagine - including wristwatches from a surprisingly diverse range of producers and at a wide range of price points. Nearly a century after first appearing on a watch’s dial, Mickey Mouse continues to claim a small but enduringly popular niche in the world of horology. Here is a brief overview of Mickey Mouse watches from the 1930s to Disney’s centennial year of 2023. [toc-section heading="Ingersoll-Waterbury and the First Mickey Mouse Watch"] Photo Credit: Secondhand Horology Mickey’s instant popularity with audiences was such that it was only five years after his debut that the character found himself on the dial of a wristwatch. The circumstances behind the creation of the first Mickey Mouse watch, produced by the American watchmaker Inge...
Worn & Wound
It’s hard to launch a watch brand. And yet, every year, new brands appear. It’s honestly tough to keep up sometimes, and when looking back at 2025, there seemed to be a flurry of new brands competing for our attention at all levels. It’s a truly crowded market, and in spite of the conventional wisdom that we’re moving towards consolidation, the reality on the ground for us is that there’s a surplus of good watches from new players out there to consider. More, in fact, than we can even cover. This is a selection of brands that broke through the noise in one way or another and impressed us in 2025, a difficult task when your inbox is overflowing with press releases and notifications of new stuff to check out. I’m quite certain I missed plenty of good stuff that will only resurface in 2026 when these brands will just be “new to me” and not simply “new,” but that’s an inescapable aspect of covering this industry – there’s simply never an end to the creativity and ingenuity of people drawn to the watch world. Anemoic This first brand immediately forces us to define our terms. Did Anemoic “debut” in 2025? It was the year that founder Magnus Swann began discussing the brand with members of the media and collectors, but they don’t actually have a watch to sell, and may never. It’s a design project from a member of the Studio Underd0g team, and it looks incredibly promising, but is also the type of thing that could vanish into the ether. The ...
Hodinkee
On a night celebrating the legacy of Black dandyism, we check out the best watches and looks, too.
Monochrome
By now, the history of the Dirty Dozen military watches is probably well known to just about everyone who would be reading an article like this, but here is a brief overview for any of you stragglers. Over 80 years ago, as World War II was raging on, the British Ministry of Defence (M.O.D.) saw […]
Hodinkee
This watch is lush. And important. Does the arc of the 5370 stand as the archetype of what has happened to high-end watchmaking in the last decade?
Monochrome
Whenever we can shine a little light on something interesting that has to do with watches coming from the Netherlands, we tend to get a little bit extra excited. Call us chauvinistic, but we’re proud of the things that are being done in our small country. So when we learned that someone we knew quite […]
Deployant
Girard-Perregaux returns to its complications roots with the Cosmos, which was first introduced in 2019. This is a new, piece unique expression for 2025.
Fratello
The big trend is “small.” And “thin.” Well, those two words perfectly describe the new 36.5mm Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. Not only is the diameter a size “S,” but it also has an 8.43mm case thickness, making it worthy of the “Ultra-Thin” moniker. The pink gold version is the most modern of the […] Visit Introducing: Two Simply Irresistible 36.5mm Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Watches to read the full article.
SJX Watches
One of the standout releases from Dubai Watch Week was the UR-Freak, a collaboration between Ulysse Nardin (UN) and Urwerk that embodies some of the most enduring motifs of each brand. More UN than Uwerk, the UR-Freak nonetheless incorporate’s the latter’s satellite wandering hours display, adapted to the Freak’s slow-moving flying tourbillon. A limited run of just 100 individually numbered pieces, the UR-Freak confers some of Urwerk’s disruptive cache to UN, a legacy brand celebrating its 180th anniversary next year. The wandering hours tourbillon To understand why the UR-Freak is such a compelling collaboration, one must understand what UN and Urwerk bring to the table, respectively. The UN Freak turns 25 in 2026, marking a quarter-century of the quirky tourbillon that introduced silicon to watchmaking. That innovation alone would have secured the Freak’s place in watchmaking history, but it was arguably more memorable for its unusual design that put much of the movement (including the escapement) on a rotating platform on the dial. The Freak One is an example of the typical Freak architecture. Ulysse Nardin refers to this architecture as a flying carousel, perhaps to differentiate the standard models from those with a nested tourbillon. Nomenclature aside, it’s technically a tourbillon by nature of its operation, which powers the escapement through a fixed-ring gear (which can be seen around the edge of the dial). In all previous Freak models to date, the mo...
Fratello
There are watchmakers, and then there are people like David Lowinger, who seem to operate in a world of their own. I honestly cannot remember exactly when we started speaking. It was some time, a good few years ago, after I stumbled across his work on Instagram and reached out. What began as a casual […] Visit Inside The Mind Of David Lowinger: Five Wild Concepts From A German Independent Watchmaker to read the full article.
Monochrome
Continuing on from last week’s Just Because story showcasing a selection of the most tantalising backsides, we revisit the topic to show you some more of the finest movements we’ve seen in our year-round watch journey. We bring together watches from indies, as well as established brands, for the sheer joy of looking at the […]
Fratello
It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for a nice cup of coffee and an early morning watch battle. But as this is the last Sunday before Christmas, this will be the last Sunday Morning Showdown of the year. Next week, Jorg will look back at some of the most remarkable showdowns of 2025 to […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Vs. Tudor Black Bay Pro to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
We’ve got our hands on the new TAG Heuer Connected E5 to see how it works, and just what the benefits of owning a smart fitness watch are. What We Love The ergonomics and ease of wear The ability to customise the interface and displays Range of pre-set workouts and routines built in What We Don’t The 40mm is probably on the smaller side for some The battery life means you do need to charge it every day The interface is a little fiddly until you get used to where all the functions are Overall Score: 8 / 10 Value for Money: 7/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8/10 This is a slightly different review – TAG Heuer kindly lent us a new 40mm Connected E5, and given this is not your standard mechanical watch, we needed to get it out and about to test it. I love my fitness and gym, so it was the perfect watch to get on my wrist and put it through its paces while I hit the gym and went through their daily routine. I did lend this to Sam, and seems he was exhausted after 1m:15s run, but at least he burned 4 Calories! As this is a smart watch and somewhat different to the usual mechanical pieces on our wrists, I thought this was the best approach as it’s very hard to talk about the movement in a smart watch, however, the benefits of this watch is due to its functionality and practicality for people who want to keep on top of their health and fitness, those who have goals to achieve within their chosen field of sport and exercise. With this in mind, I really ...
Teddy Baldassarre
In the latest installment of our popular Real Collectors Series, we sit down with Mark to chat about his love of watches and how they fit into his military service as a United States Marine.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
From microbrands to legacy Swiss producers, explore the best world timer watches our editorial team has ever reviewed.
Fratello
It’s late afternoon on a Thursday in mid-December when the call comes in: monsters are closing in on Nazaré. State-of-the-art satellite technology has detected the perfect kinetic sweep across the Atlantic, creating ideal conditions. This monster swell is heading straight for a small fishing village two hours north of Lisbon. But it’s not alone in […] Visit Photo Report: Tudor Nazaré Big Wave Challenge 2025 to read the full article.
Fratello
Orient Star unveils three new versions of its flagship F7 Mechanical Moon Phase. Dials in white and navy blue join the regular lineup, while the light blue dial is a limited edition of 190 pieces. Having debuted in 2017, the F7 Mechanical Moon Phase combines three striking elements. The namesake moon phase sits at 6 […] Visit Introducing: The Orient Star M45 F7 Mechanical Moon Phase to read the full article.
Fratello
The JB300 Poulpro arrives as Jacques Bianchi Marseille’s latest take on a serious dive watch. It pairs some of the frivolous style of the earlier JB200 Poulpro with a more technical, titanium-based platform. This isn’t about flash; it’s about refining a recognized design language into something even more purposeful. In dive watches, there’s a fine […] Visit Introducing: The JB300 Poulpro - Jacques Bianchi’s Technical Dive Watch Evolves to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Every few years, a new independent hits the scene with something that hits just the right notes to get all the factions of the watch world vibrating at the same frequency. However, no recent newcomer has managed to unite the watch echo chamber the way Swiss independent Berneron has. When Berneron unveiled their debut offering, the Mirage, in 2023, it was universally lauded as the most intriguing and refreshing new watch seen in ages. The Mirage was a legitimately unique take on upscale watchmaking, with a striking aesthetic and design narrative as unexpected as its asymmetrical shape and wildly ambitious bespoke movement. The Mirage’s styling was initially met with comparisons to the Cartier Crash, but the reality is its melted case shape was an elegant solution for housing the watch’s impressive mechanics–a case shrink-wrapped around a new caliber that was designed from scratch, free from the rules of traditional movement design. The Mirage was a helluva of a breakout hit; it had mystique, it was technically impressive, and it was different without resorting to arbitrary design choices. The Mirage’s success would be difficult to replicate, but with the Quantième, Berneron has both side-steped the sophomore slump and cemented the reputation of its founder and Creative Director Sylvain Berneron as a true visionary and a generational talent. The Quantième applies Berneron’s virtuosic technicality to a watch that embraces a more traditional look than the Mir...
Time+Tide
When asked to speak on the future of watch retail, our founder Andrew McUtchen certainly didn't hold back - here is what he had to say.The post The Great Watch Retail Reckoning: Andrew McUtchen on community, microbrands, and the end of an era appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
A conundrum shared by watchmakers for centuries concerns the issue of constant force, or how to produce a steady, unwavering stream of power from the mainspring to the regulating organ to prevent rate variations and maintain amplitude consistency. The big question is how? Taking the bull by the horns, Girard-Perregaux tackled the dilemma with the […]
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we selected our five favorite complicated watches released in 2025. Indeed, many contenders were fighting for a spot among these. We have seen many impressive releases that either introduced new technologies or were groundbreaking due to the sheer number of complications involved. In life, though, it’s not just about […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Complicated Watches Of 2025 - Featuring Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Breguet, And More to read the full article.
Fratello
All right, everyone, it’s my turn to tell you about my favorite watches of 2025. With the calendar winding down, it’s remarkable how close the end of the year suddenly feels. The past few weeks have slipped by at an almost unfair pace, but stepping back for a moment makes one thing obvious: it’s been […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2025 - Nacho’s Picks From Nomos, Sinn, Tudor, And More to read the full article.
SJX Watches
After a slow year for complications last year, big brands showed up in force in 2025. Spurred by a number of major anniversaries celebrated by the likes of Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet, the year witnessed a range of record-setting and never-before-seen complications. The breadth and ambition of new complicated watches, some from unexpected corners, proved to be one of the defining themes of the year. Within this crowded field, a few stood out. Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – Brandon Moore For collectors who keep a close eye on the record books, the year ended almost as soon as it began. At Watches & Wonders 2025, Vacheron Constantin unveiled the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première, a unique wristwatch that immediately became one of the most talked-about watches of the fair. The buzz was justified: the Solaria is the most complicated wristwatch ever made. Developed over eight years, the Solaria leverages 13 patents to bring together 41 complications across two dials. While the headline figure is the sheer number of functions, the Solaria’s true distinction lies in its astronomical indications. Four of its rare complications track the apparent path of the Sun, displaying its position, height, culmination, and declination – as observed from a specific location on Earth. Turning the watch over reveals another first: a celestial object tracker linked to a split-seconds chronograph. Twin rotating sapphire disc...
SJX Watches
Independent watchmaking presented relatively few genuinely new releases in 2025. Many watchmakers instead reintroduced familiar models in new configurations or colourways - an approach typically associated with larger brands. The strongest releases were excellent, but they were few and far between. Our highlights reflect that: Urban Jürgensen’s relaunch stood out for its confidence and momentum, while Petermann Bédat and Raúl Pagès showed there is still room to say something new within the time-only format. Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon – SJX When I first heard about Urban Jürgensen being revived, I was sceptical. Could an investor halfway across the world and a watchmaker busy with his own brand pull it off? As it turned out, they could. The Rosenfields, Andy and Alex, father and son, and Kari Voutilainen, managed to put together a collection of three watches – all impressively conceived and executed – and then deliver a good number of watches in the months since the launch in mid-2025. The flagship of the Urban Jürgensen line-up and clearly its best creation to date is the UJ-1. A tourbillon with remontoir, the UJ-1 is modelled on the Oval pocket watch that was made by Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen. The movement instantly feels like it was descended from the Oval, which is a feat considering the disparity in scale. Mr Voutilainen managed to translate many of the key elements of the Oval into wristwatch format, including the “floating” barrel and...
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